Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work.. Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru. You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes. I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
At 17:08 the tool you used to push in the emulsion tube is the Tecumseh tool you are supposed to use to remove and install the new float needle seat. The side of the same tool has a flat side on the handle that is to be used to set the float height to 11/64".
As everyone else said great video. Always hard to find videos that go over all the aspects of something without dragging on or missing key aspects. Perfect video.
Excellent video. Glad you showed the two bowl gaskets. I took my bowl off cleaned the main jet (would only run a few second then stall out) and put everything back together. Never noticed if there was a large bowl gasket when I removed it but did notice the small one was missing. After all was put back together, it leaked like a sieve. Will now go and remove and put in gaskets lol. Again, thanks for the video. Cheers!!
Tremendous video, you did a great job of explaining not only the procedure, but what that part actually does. Also, I have never seen that you can test your job by blowing in the carb, both upside down and right side up to see if it is functioning. Well done!!
I'm not sure why people don't like Tecumseh's. They seem to need jet drilling more often. They seem to be a little more temperamental to tune. That's all I can think of as to why people don't like them.
Thanks for the video I was struggling with this carb the tiny hole for the idle circuit on my snowblower has completely blocked I'd already cleaned everything but didn't even see that hole once I watched your video I cleared it now it runs great😊😊
Those welder cleaners are priceless. Cleaned a bunch of 60s-70s carbs completely with rebuild kits. Those Tecumseh carbs are like 100 bucks ome new! Don’t forget to clean the vent hole on the side of the carburetor.
Great video on that carb cleaning and I would just add two tips. 1) If you need to remove the float needle seat without destroying it, place a finger over the float needle hole and carefully blow a little compressed air into the fuel intake port and the rubber seat will pop right up to the surface where you can remove it with a small tool or toothpick. 2) When putting the rubber seat back in, if you don't have the right size punch to fit inside the seat hole, try using the back end of a drill bit that does fit and with the rubber seat started into the hole, (make sure you look at it at the top of the hole when you take it out so you'll know which way it goes back in) place the back end of the drill bit against the seat and push the sharp end of the drill bit up against the edge of the work bench, and push firmly until the rubber is firmly seated at the bottom of the hole. I just did it a hour ago and it works fine. Another option is rather than go through the process of cleaning those small carburetors, get the numbers off the carb, or the engine of the equipment and look on eBay where there are many options available where you can get brand new replacement carbs now for around $12.00 to $16.00 with free shipping. Pretty hard to beat at that price.
Great video. I tried replacing my old fixed jet carburetor last winter with an adjustable one. It is still difficult to get the adjustable one running smoothly (too many screw and throttle 'tweaks' needed) so I decided to clean and replace the old fixed jet carburetor on my 8 hp Tecumseh - the exact one one in this video. So thanks W_B !
Nice video, very well explained and helpful. I have a 5.5 HP Snow King engine, the carburetor looks very much like this one. Would you know the part number for the carburetor and or rebuild kit as well as emulsion tube for the smaller engine? Thank you.
😀wow....this was the best video I have ever seen on rebuilding a carb. so detailed and clear information...you even helped me solve the surging problem I've been having on my other machine! Thank you so much for this! Have subbed and look forward to more vids like this 😁
Thanks Wild_Bill for a very succinct and concise video. The clarity of the video was extremely high resolution, so even the tiniest of holes could be seen. This is how videos should be done. Very close to professional grade with well laid out step-by-step instructions. Kudos to you for taking the time to make and present this. Cheers!
@@billyb351 Just an FYI, I followed your step-by-step instructions and had success with my snowblower no longer stalling. However, if I throttle down to low, it idles slow (like is should), then it revs up a bit and returns to a low idle. Repeat. What could be the cause? I'm thinking air leaking in from somewhere?
@@therealsparkman Yeah, that sounds like a small air leak. The common culprits are the gaskets, specifically the one between the carb itself and the intake pipe. The other is between the intake pipe and the motor itself. It's hard to say for 100% sure just from a description, but that would be my first guess as well... some intake leak at one of those gaskets.
@@billyb351 The original was destroyed when I removed the carb, so I replaced it with a brand new one. Odd that it would leak. But what I will do is to try and retorque the screws and see what happens. Thanks!
@@therealsparkman Also makes sure the gasket surfaces are clean. All it takes is one little piece of old gasket stuck on one of the surfaces to cause a leak.
Hey, great vid. You know your carbs. My expertise is round/flat slide carbs...never seen an 'emulsion' tube before. I was tentative about removing it without snapping it, or even how to. This is my buddys carb as well. Thanks for taking the time to help your fellow man.
Thanks! That's why I sometimes break out the carb clean into a separate video so I can go in depth with it. People can watch just the carb clean, or they can watch the main project and optionally dive into the details of the carb clean if they desire.
mine has a teeny tiny spring associated with that float needle. Not even sure how it goes back. I lef tit out of my rebuild. I went through all angle variations. Seems it will work.
FYI, That flat section on your Tecumseh carb tool is used to measure the distance from the float to the carb face. That’s the distance it needs to be at.
You are correct, that is the proper float distance. I tend to generally just look for about level. However, if you want to be truly precise, then using the flat part of the carb tool is the proper way to do it :) Many people watching this video don't have that tool. It's not made anymore and it's fairly expensive if you try and get it today. A crochet hook can be used as a replacement for the hook part, a punch for the back end, but there's no good replacement for the flat section to measure float distance. I leave that out of the videos because it's not something most people can do. I will probably mention it in the next detailed carb clean video I do.
Thanks Bill for a very well described and informative session on cleaning and a carb. First time doing this thouroughly as described. These fuel holes are really small and it makes me wonder why there are no filters to filter out small particles from plugging the carb. Thanks again from snow country in Cananda!
@@billyb351 My Tecumseh-powered snow blower had neither a valve nor filter on the bottom of the fuel tank. It does now! These are inexpensive items and fairly easy to install. I wish Bill had also discussed replacing the needle valve seat. I happened to see it and it was severely damaged and deteriorated. Fortunately the rebuild kit you specified comes with a replacement seat. Great video!
So to remove that center oring, which did not come out. I use a Christmas Tree Ornament Hook - fashioned in away that I could pull it out. Probably should share how to reinstalled those caps. I didn't realized they needed to be flattened in order to stay in. I though I received a defective kit. Also, mine had a spring on the float. If you could share how to reinstall the spring - that would help also. Great video thank you for the detail.
Great video. Usually when I pull these apart, on snow blowers, the carb is too far gone for a rebuild. I have ordered new carbs on Amazon. They don't cost much more than a rebuild kit.
I've done that, but it's hit or miss on those carbs. I had such a horrible time with the last one I did like that. I bought an engine with a knockoff carb that the guy just couldn't make run so he gave up. I couldn't make it run either with the knockoff, so I bought the real Tecumseh replacement carb and it ran just fine. Sometimes the knockoffs have worked fine. Just can never tell what you'll get when you order one of those.
There's a part of me that still wants to rebuild the carb I pulled off of mine, it was extremely gummed up. On the other hand, the 12 dollar one I bought from Amazon works perfectly and was cheaper than all the parts I would have needed to fix the original.
Same old problem like I always get with these idle jets, main hole is plugged solid and I'm drilling into it and the bit breaks off so now it's plugged even worse, an suggestions. Tried another drill bit with cutting fluid and it broke off too.
You should only use carb. Cleaner for checking that the jets are clean. Using a welding tip cleaner will damage the holes that are very precision sized.😊
Yup, not everyone has those tools. The real ones aren't made anymore and they're rather expensive to try and get these days. If the float is adjusted right with the tool, it sits right about level so that's what I recommend people look for.
I bought a used craftsman snow blower, when I fill it it with gas and start the blower, there is a heavy leak in the carburetor, do you any idea what causes that, can it be fix, or get a new carb? Thanks
Fantastic video!! Mine started acting horrible this year again. One question I have is on the idle restrictor screw, how far did you screw that in? Years ago, on some screws, it was in all the way and out 1.5 turns to start with. But for this video, it looked like you just put it in and capped it? Thank you for posting this and any reply on that question!!!
Yes, with these fixed jet carburetors, there is no adjustment. You screw it down just snug and that's it. You're thinking of the adjustable Tecumseh carbs. You screw those in and back them out 1.5 to 2 turns. Then you start it up and adjust them till it runs good.
Any tips on how to smooth out the transition from idle to full throttle. I just went through my whole carburetor (Tecumseh HM100 Snow King) and can't get rid of the stumble with black, and sometimes blue smoke, between high and low throttle? I'm starting to wonder if this is an indication of a tired engine. Although it doesn't burn oil and has good compression and usually starts on first pull if I choke it just right. But then again it is 35 years old. What do you recommend for an idle speed.?
Hey. Followed the instructions and replaced the gasket on the main jet, bowl gasket as well as seat. Used original needle valve. After assembling, I have a leak from what looks like the intake. I assume the needle valve is not sealing so replaced the needle valve with new and slightly shorter. Still leaks. Any ideas what went wrong?
If it's leaking gas from the intake, you are right that the float needle is probably not sealing. It's not the needle, it's the rubber seat down in fuel inlet. You'll need to replace the float seat with a new one. You can get a pack of 5 on Ebay for like $4. You'll have to get the old one out. Use a wood screw that's a little smaller than the fuel inlet and screw it just a little bit down into center hole of the old rubber seat. Pull it out and the rubber seat will come with it. Then stick a new seat in. Use a center punch to get the new seat all the way down and seated into the fuel inlet. If the new seat has a grooved side, that side faces down into the hole.
@@billyb351 thanks Bill. It has a new seat that I set with a punch. another video talked about adjusting the float bracket. I did that and I’m still getting a flood of gas out of the carb intake as well as the very small vent hole.
The passages actually form a "T". There's one page drilled straight through the sides, then another smaller hole drilled from the bottom to meet the passage drilled through the sides.
@@billyb351 hey thanks Bill, I eventually figured it out. Used smaller gauge wire for the center hole. Appreciate you replying and for sharing repair content.
No, per the Tecumseh carburetor service document it is grooved side down. Page 30, Section: Carburetor Service Tips, Subsection: Servicing the Seat "To install a new seat, make sure the seat cavity is clean, then moisten the seat with a drop of oil to help it slide into place. Position the seat with the grooved side of the seal down and carefully push the seat into its cavity with a 5/32" flat punch until it bottoms out. TecumsehPower tool 670377 can also perform this job."
@@billyb351 It's not very clear description. When you are holding the carburetor upside down, which direction is "down"? The instructions should tell us whether the needle should seal against the flat side of the seat or the ridged side of the seat... that would be much clearer. (I've always put the seat in with the ridge toward the gas inlet, but not convinced this is correct.)
He said emulsion in the video, not emotion. An emulsion is a temporary mixture of things that will separate if left long enough. In this case, air and gasoline droplets.
I did everything you did to the T! and she still won't crank. She only stays on for like 5 seconds if I spray Start fuild in the spark Plug. Whats the Link to this Carb ?
ariens 28 deluxe one snow blower five years old,since new not work properly ,hard starting plus stop when blowing hard snow,no good service for the ariens shop home,bring it twice and do the same,what somebody give me a glue to fix it.thank you.Reggie from nb canada .
I have a Murray snowblower with a 5 hp Tecumseh engine. Can you tell me what carb rebuild kit number I need to get . The model number for the machine is 624505X4C. I don't know the serial number for the engine
What kind of emulsion tube do you have? Apparently, there are plastic tubes which are serviceable and there are brass tubes which are not serviceable. This I only learned after struggling for two days to get it out. After using a 1/2 socket extension and a hammer, I managed to push the emulsion tube flush with the body of the carb body, but it still isn't moving. I'm pretty sure I just ruined the carb body, which is a shame, because I got it very clean. But that's OK, because I found another engine in the basement, with another carb. Just like the first one, it appears to have a brass emulsion tube. I have that one soaking now for attempt deux.
That does happen. I usually try and reclean just to make sure it's totally clean. If it's still hunting, it's time to drill the main jet. Step up one micro bit at a time till it runs good. Do not over drill!
Great video, the only thing that I was surprised though was you have the tecumseh tool which the hook end pops the seat out very easily without even damaging it 99.9% of the time and the other side works awesome to put the new seat in. And the side of the tool checks the float height which is very hand as well even just for reference. Im guessing you used the screw and punch to show how to remove/install the needle seat as not everyone has the tool at their disposal?
Yes, most people don't have the tool and I don't think it's made anymore. When you look on Ebay for them they are quite expensive for what they are. That's why I always show the screw method for taking the seat out.
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work..
Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire clippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits inside whatever port your spaying thru.
You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes.
I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense. BTW.... Great videos.
At 17:08 the tool you used to push in the emulsion tube is the Tecumseh tool you are supposed to use to remove and install the new float needle seat. The side of the same tool has a flat side on the handle that is to be used to set the float height to 11/64".
As everyone else said great video. Always hard to find videos that go over all the aspects of something without dragging on or missing key aspects. Perfect video.
Great video, clear and straightforward but also detailed with just the right amount of info one needs. Thanks for posting.
This might be one of the best videos on TH-cam. Super detailed and great information. Well done sir.
Excellent video. Glad you showed the two bowl gaskets. I took my bowl off cleaned the main jet (would only run a few second then stall out) and put everything back together. Never noticed if there was a large bowl gasket when I removed it but did notice the small one was missing. After all was put back together, it leaked like a sieve. Will now go and remove and put in gaskets lol. Again, thanks for the video. Cheers!!
EXCELLENT CAMERA WORK MY FLOAT DID BIND BECAUSE I DID NOT SEE THIS VIDEO FIRST AND I REVERSED IT THANK YOU SO MUCH!! (18:53)
Good one, the best one out there. Good to see you included the simple "blow test" on the float.
Tremendous video, you did a great job of explaining not only the procedure, but what that part actually does. Also, I have never seen that you can test your job by blowing in the carb, both upside down and right side up to see if it is functioning. Well done!!
Great re-build, very informative and straight forward….. Thank you!
Most thorough rebuild video I've seen. Even moreso than DonyBoy73!
Thank you!
To this day I wonder why folks don't like Tecumsh's. Nice 90 degree in the carb spray tube. Classic carb clean. Good filming.
I'm not sure why people don't like Tecumseh's. They seem to need jet drilling more often. They seem to be a little more temperamental to tune. That's all I can think of as to why people don't like them.
@@billyb351 I always wondered if you could swap in the older style adjustable main jet as opposed to drilling them, but never tried it.
Thanks for the video I was struggling with this carb the tiny hole for the idle circuit on my snowblower has completely blocked I'd already cleaned everything but didn't even see that hole once I watched your video I cleared it now it runs great😊😊
Those welder cleaners are priceless. Cleaned a bunch of 60s-70s carbs completely with rebuild kits. Those Tecumseh carbs are like 100 bucks ome new! Don’t forget to clean the vent hole on the side of the carburetor.
Great video on that carb cleaning and I would just add two tips. 1) If you need to remove the float needle seat without destroying it, place a finger over the float needle hole and carefully blow a little compressed air into the fuel intake port and the rubber seat will pop right up to the surface where you can remove it with a small tool or toothpick. 2) When putting the rubber seat back in, if you don't have the right size punch to fit inside the seat hole, try using the back end of a drill bit that does fit and with the rubber seat started into the hole, (make sure you look at it at the top of the hole when you take it out so you'll know which way it goes back in) place the back end of the drill bit against the seat and push the sharp end of the drill bit up against the edge of the work bench, and push firmly until the rubber is firmly seated at the bottom of the hole. I just did it a hour ago and it works fine. Another option is rather than go through the process of cleaning those small carburetors, get the numbers off the carb, or the engine of the equipment and look on eBay where there are many options available where you can get brand new replacement carbs now for around $12.00 to $16.00 with free shipping. Pretty hard to beat at that price.
Hello, I just cleaned out the carburetor for the tecumseh 5.5 hp. It was not to difficult. Good to see videos like this. Thanks.
Thanks for goin into such detail, sometimes the small 1s are left out and that's what your really looking for. You got them all
Thanks!
Just what I needed... thanks! The emulsion tube and a couple others were the issues... Thanks for breaking it down.
Great video. I tried replacing my old fixed jet carburetor last winter with an adjustable one. It is still difficult to get the adjustable one running smoothly (too many screw and throttle 'tweaks' needed) so I decided to clean and replace the old fixed jet carburetor on my 8 hp Tecumseh - the exact one one in this video. So thanks W_B !
I wasn't sure how to properly remove the tube, I thought it was a jet so thanks for sharing
PERFECT VIDEO, IT HELPED ME SO MUCH . THANK YOU.
Thanks enjoyed the video ,well done
Great video. Can you tell me how to adjust the governor on a tecumseh HMSK 100 please
Nice video, very well explained and helpful. I have a 5.5 HP Snow King engine, the carburetor looks very much like this one. Would you know the part number for the carburetor and or rebuild kit as well as emulsion tube for the smaller engine? Thank you.
😀wow....this was the best video I have ever seen on rebuilding a carb. so detailed and clear information...you even helped me solve the surging problem I've been having on my other machine! Thank you so much for this! Have subbed and look forward to more vids like this 😁
Finally got the time to get this put back on and other things I was doing to my machine. It runs great! Thanks for posting this!
Glad I could help.
Very informative! I was equally as impressed with watching you perform relatively delicate operations while wearing relatively thick gloves!
Thanks! The carb cleaner is really harsh so I have learned how to make it work while cleaning carburetors.
Your video DEFINITELY helped me in rebuilding the carb on my machine. Thank you very much for posting!
Good video man, explains why I flooded my engine this weekend. Wish I would have watched this video first LoL.
Thanks Wild_Bill for a very succinct and concise video. The clarity of the video was extremely high resolution, so even the tiniest of holes could be seen. This is how videos should be done. Very close to professional grade with well laid out step-by-step instructions. Kudos to you for taking the time to make and present this. Cheers!
Thank you! I try and film most of the carburetor cleaning videos in 4k.
@@billyb351 Just an FYI, I followed your step-by-step instructions and had success with my snowblower no longer stalling. However, if I throttle down to low, it idles slow (like is should), then it revs up a bit and returns to a low idle. Repeat. What could be the cause? I'm thinking air leaking in from somewhere?
@@therealsparkman Yeah, that sounds like a small air leak. The common culprits are the gaskets, specifically the one between the carb itself and the intake pipe. The other is between the intake pipe and the motor itself. It's hard to say for 100% sure just from a description, but that would be my first guess as well... some intake leak at one of those gaskets.
@@billyb351 The original was destroyed when I removed the carb, so I replaced it with a brand new one. Odd that it would leak. But what I will do is to try and retorque the screws and see what happens. Thanks!
@@therealsparkman Also makes sure the gasket surfaces are clean. All it takes is one little piece of old gasket stuck on one of the surfaces to cause a leak.
Greta job, you leave nothing out. Now I my snow blower won't be hunting all the time. Thank you:)
Hey, great vid. You know your carbs. My expertise is round/flat slide carbs...never seen an 'emulsion' tube before. I was tentative about removing it without snapping it, or even how to. This is my buddys carb as well. Thanks for taking the time to help your fellow man.
Good job my man!! Very concise, detailed and informative! It beats reading a piece of paper with the rebuild kit. Thanks!
Thanks! That's why I sometimes break out the carb clean into a separate video so I can go in depth with it. People can watch just the carb clean, or they can watch the main project and optionally dive into the details of the carb clean if they desire.
Even more educational the 2nd time watching “ great job “ brother .
Your Tecumseh tool is designed to remove and replace the needle seat. The hook removes it and the circular side pushes it back in
Thanks for a great video to help us trying to save from bringing it in just cause a bad carburetor
mine has a teeny tiny spring associated with that float needle. Not even sure how it goes back. I lef tit out of my rebuild. I went through all angle variations. Seems it will work.
Not only how to rebuilt the carb, but also many amazing tips!!! thank verry much!!! ps. a new sub :)
FYI, That flat section on your Tecumseh carb tool is used to measure the distance from the float to the carb face. That’s the distance it needs to be at.
You are correct, that is the proper float distance. I tend to generally just look for about level. However, if you want to be truly precise, then using the flat part of the carb tool is the proper way to do it :) Many people watching this video don't have that tool. It's not made anymore and it's fairly expensive if you try and get it today. A crochet hook can be used as a replacement for the hook part, a punch for the back end, but there's no good replacement for the flat section to measure float distance. I leave that out of the videos because it's not something most people can do. I will probably mention it in the next detailed carb clean video I do.
Thanks Bill for a very well described and informative session on cleaning and a carb. First time doing this thouroughly as described. These fuel holes are really small and it makes me wonder why there are no filters to filter out small particles from plugging the carb. Thanks again from snow country in Cananda!
Glad it helped!
@@billyb351 My Tecumseh-powered snow blower had neither a valve nor filter on the bottom of the fuel tank. It does now! These are inexpensive items and fairly easy to install. I wish Bill had also discussed replacing the needle valve seat. I happened to see it and it was severely damaged and deteriorated. Fortunately the rebuild kit you specified comes with a replacement seat. Great video!
Your video was awesome. Cleaned the jet, gasget, and bingo!! Runs perfectly. Thank you!
Great video thank you! Currently struggling to get that top Oring out!
Yeah, I always have trouble. Poke it with a really sharp pick and try and get it sideways in there. Then it usually comes out a lot easier.
Excellent video, straight and to the point. Well done.
So to remove that center oring, which did not come out. I use a Christmas Tree Ornament Hook - fashioned in away that I could pull it out. Probably should share how to reinstalled those caps. I didn't realized they needed to be flattened in order to stay in. I though I received a defective kit. Also, mine had a spring on the float. If you could share how to reinstall the spring - that would help also. Great video thank you for the detail.
Very thorough and detailed. I am going to tackle mine tomorrow. Thanks!
The best carb cleaning video, ever! Nice job!
Awesome. Appropriately detailed and helpful.
Great video. Usually when I pull these apart, on snow blowers, the carb is too far gone for a rebuild. I have ordered new carbs on Amazon. They don't cost much more than a rebuild kit.
I've done that, but it's hit or miss on those carbs. I had such a horrible time with the last one I did like that. I bought an engine with a knockoff carb that the guy just couldn't make run so he gave up. I couldn't make it run either with the knockoff, so I bought the real Tecumseh replacement carb and it ran just fine. Sometimes the knockoffs have worked fine. Just can never tell what you'll get when you order one of those.
There's a part of me that still wants to rebuild the carb I pulled off of mine, it was extremely gummed up. On the other hand, the 12 dollar one I bought from Amazon works perfectly and was cheaper than all the parts I would have needed to fix the original.
Best explanation of what every piece does, super helpful, other similar videos don't do this - 5 stars .. ty
Same old problem like I always get with these idle jets, main hole is plugged solid and I'm drilling into it and the bit breaks off so now it's plugged even worse, an suggestions. Tried another drill bit with cutting fluid and it broke off too.
Great video, very helpful. Thank you for posting
Great video explaining very thoroughly, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent and very detailed. Thank you. I think I’ll be able to this tomorrow.
Very helpful. Thank you.
THANKS for showing me how to remove seat!!!!
You should only use carb. Cleaner for checking that the jets are clean. Using a welding tip cleaner will damage the holes that are very precision sized.😊
Fantastic. Just what I needed
Exceptionally well done.
Your Tecumseh tool is for setting the seat on the end of tool. Fits the seat right on tool
Yup, not everyone has those tools. The real ones aren't made anymore and they're rather expensive to try and get these days. If the float is adjusted right with the tool, it sits right about level so that's what I recommend people look for.
@@billyb351 yeah...eBay is your friend with old tools like that. 15 bucks gets a Oem tecumseh tool.
Really great complete review ..accurate!
Thanks!
The o-rings on the emulsion tubes, are they made of a special material like Viton? Or are they just plain rubber?
Made my day! Thank you
I bought a used craftsman snow blower, when I fill it it with gas and start the blower, there is a heavy leak in the carburetor, do you any idea what causes that, can it be fix, or get a new carb? Thanks
I got new carb and motor still serge's. Do you know what else I could check ?
Might you have the part number for the bowl gasket as well as the gasket for the jet holding the bowl on?
Fantastic video!! Mine started acting horrible this year again. One question I have is on the idle restrictor screw, how far did you screw that in? Years ago, on some screws, it was in all the way and out 1.5 turns to start with. But for this video, it looked like you just put it in and capped it? Thank you for posting this and any reply on that question!!!
Yes, with these fixed jet carburetors, there is no adjustment. You screw it down just snug and that's it. You're thinking of the adjustable Tecumseh carbs. You screw those in and back them out 1.5 to 2 turns. Then you start it up and adjust them till it runs good.
Any tips on how to smooth out the transition from idle to full throttle. I just went through my whole carburetor (Tecumseh HM100 Snow King) and can't get rid of the stumble with black, and sometimes blue smoke, between high and low throttle? I'm starting to wonder if this is an indication of a tired engine. Although it doesn't burn oil and has good compression and usually starts on first pull if I choke it just right. But then again it is 35 years old. What do you recommend for an idle speed.?
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Wild bill you saved my butt thank you so so so much your a money saving life saver
what about re assembly of the throttle assembly and adjustment ? I did not pay attention witch hole the rods came of ....
Hey. Followed the instructions and replaced the gasket on the main jet, bowl gasket as well as seat. Used original needle valve. After assembling, I have a leak from what looks like the intake. I assume the needle valve is not sealing so replaced the needle valve with new and slightly shorter. Still leaks. Any ideas what went wrong?
If it's leaking gas from the intake, you are right that the float needle is probably not sealing. It's not the needle, it's the rubber seat down in fuel inlet. You'll need to replace the float seat with a new one. You can get a pack of 5 on Ebay for like $4. You'll have to get the old one out. Use a wood screw that's a little smaller than the fuel inlet and screw it just a little bit down into center hole of the old rubber seat. Pull it out and the rubber seat will come with it. Then stick a new seat in. Use a center punch to get the new seat all the way down and seated into the fuel inlet. If the new seat has a grooved side, that side faces down into the hole.
@@billyb351 thanks Bill. It has a new seat that I set with a punch. another video talked about adjusting the float bracket. I did that and I’m still getting a flood of gas out of the carb intake as well as the very small vent hole.
Great job
Also, once removing the rubber cap is it necessary to pull the idle restrictor screw?
Does the top hole on the idle screw bottom out or does it actually have full passage to the other hole on the side? Thank you
The passages actually form a "T". There's one page drilled straight through the sides, then another smaller hole drilled from the bottom to meet the passage drilled through the sides.
@@billyb351 hey thanks Bill, I eventually figured it out. Used smaller gauge wire for the center hole. Appreciate you replying and for sharing repair content.
Great video, thank you!
Very good! Nicely done, and well explained. This is just what I needed to walk me through my rebuild. 👍
Can you show us how to replace the fuel line? Mine is breaking down.
Yes, there will be a video on that in a couple weeks. I have a Tecumseh engine where the fuel line is coming apart and leaking.
Outstanding video bro you just saved me 50.00. Yeah buddy
great work Bill, very comprehensive video. I heard there was a small debris screen behind the fuel Inlet Barb is that true?
Do some carburetors not require a float seat?
They have a brass color and look beveled inside
The needle seat is ridge side up when putting in
No, per the Tecumseh carburetor service document it is grooved side down.
Page 30, Section: Carburetor Service Tips, Subsection: Servicing the Seat
"To install a new seat, make sure the seat cavity is clean, then moisten the seat with a drop of oil to help it slide into
place. Position the seat with the grooved side of the seal down and carefully push the seat into its cavity with a 5/32" flat punch until it bottoms out. TecumsehPower tool 670377 can also perform this job."
@@billyb351 It's not very clear description. When you are holding the carburetor upside down, which direction is "down"? The instructions should tell us whether the needle should seal against the flat side of the seat or the ridged side of the seat... that would be much clearer. (I've always put the seat in with the ridge toward the gas inlet, but not convinced this is correct.)
You never mention the jet that the float needle valve controls. That needs to come out and get cleaned when the engine has surging idle.
I have seen oil inside the bowl of my tecumseh generator 2500 is it normal?I'm trying to save my tecumseh 🤠 great video by the way
Does the idle restrict or srew has any adjustment? You just screw it.
Excellent video very informative and concise, great job
Fantastic, great information. I learned today, thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Pretty thorough 👍
Hello there I do have the same exact carburator,how and where can I order the emotion tube inside the jet from?
He said emulsion in the video, not emotion. An emulsion is a temporary mixture of things that will separate if left long enough. In this case, air and gasoline droplets.
I did everything you did to the T! and she still won't crank.
She only stays on for like 5 seconds if I spray Start fuild in the spark Plug.
Whats the Link to this Carb ?
ariens 28 deluxe one snow blower five years old,since new not work properly ,hard starting plus stop when blowing hard snow,no good service for the ariens shop home,bring it twice and do the same,what somebody give me a glue to fix it.thank you.Reggie from nb canada .
Thanks that was helpful
Nvm I take that Back I did everything you did, and now it runs and drives great . I later found out it was out of Gas thats why it didnt crank lol
Top shelf info.
Great video...well explain
well explain congratulation
I have a Murray snowblower with a 5 hp Tecumseh engine. Can you tell me what carb rebuild kit number I need to get . The model number for the machine is 624505X4C.
I don't know the serial number for the engine
Do you have a part number for the emulsion tube? I broke mine trying to remove it
What kind of emulsion tube do you have?
Apparently, there are plastic tubes which are serviceable and there are brass tubes which are not serviceable. This I only learned after struggling for two days to get it out. After using a 1/2 socket extension and a hammer, I managed to push the emulsion tube flush with the body of the carb body, but it still isn't moving. I'm pretty sure I just ruined the carb body, which is a shame, because I got it very clean.
But that's OK, because I found another engine in the basement, with another carb. Just like the first one, it appears to have a brass emulsion tube. I have that one soaking now for attempt deux.
Just saw this comment now. I believe the emulsion tube is Tecumseh part number 640113.
Great content, just curious, what if after the rebuild you are still getting the hunting/surge effect.
That does happen. I usually try and reclean just to make sure it's totally clean. If it's still hunting, it's time to drill the main jet. Step up one micro bit at a time till it runs good. Do not over drill!
@@billyb351 Thank you for the information.
Great video, the only thing that I was surprised though was you have the tecumseh tool which the hook end pops the seat out very easily without even damaging it 99.9% of the time and the other side works awesome to put the new seat in. And the side of the tool checks the float height which is very hand as well even just for reference. Im guessing you used the screw and punch to show how to remove/install the needle seat as not everyone has the tool at their disposal?
Yes, most people don't have the tool and I don't think it's made anymore. When you look on Ebay for them they are quite expensive for what they are. That's why I always show the screw method for taking the seat out.
Can't you check the level of the float with your tool.
Thanks.
Very good! Thank you!!