Awesome video. My snowblower had the problem you described - it would only run with the choke fully engaged, and even then it would just barely keep running. I resolved the problem with a quicker version of your fix. I removed the shroud but did not remove the primer hose or fuel hose. I used a small C clamp to pinch the fuel hose behind the plastic fuel inlet to cut off the fuel supply. I put an empty plastic yogurt container under carb bowl. My version had a fixed jet as you described, so I used a 1/2" wrench to remove the jet and let the small amount of fuel drain into the yogurt container. I did not remove the bowl. I cleaned the jet with carb cleaner and a wire as you showed. I also sprayed carb cleaner down the throttle body which flushed some dirt through the bowl into the yogurt container. Replaced the jet, removed the C clamp, replaced the shroud, started it up, and it's running like the day I bought it!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Never cleaned a carburetor before, but followed your video and got it completely cleaned. My neighbors and I have shared our Craftsman snowblower for 11 years and now it runs like new. Thank you so much...very helpful!
Its Jan of 2019 and this video just walked me through cleaning up my snow blowers carburetor. I followed all the steps and it fired up on the first pull! I did add a little Seafoam to the fresh gas. Thank you very much for taking the time to upload this. Saved me at least $100.
Thanks I bought an old used snowblower last fall, never needed one before I bought this house with a long driveway. The thing ran great all last winter but I was thinking it’s about time to give it a little tlc while the sun is shining. Your video was very helpful, never worked on one of these techumse engine carburetors so your details and tips about the position of all the linkages are very helpful. Going to pull it off this afternoon and give it a go. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
Excellent video! Thanks for making this. You just helped me get my snowblower running again after being in storage all summer! The tiny hole on the needle valve was clogged. I never even knew it was there! Used a coper wire to clean it and now my snowblower starts up and runs great again!
Compressed air is a trick used on larger carbs with large jets and passages. Carb cleaner allows you to physically see if a jet is flowing properly through these tiny passages. It wont hurt to use compressed air but it doesn't really benefit it either.
Thanks for watching. Kirkland (Costco) Nitril. Carb cleaner eats them but not as fast as other gloves. They seem to hold up better and if you do get a tear they dont continue to tear.
If you have an adjustable jet it will have the little hole. Sometimes it's in the top threads. It gets plugged and looks like it is not there in this video I have a hard time finding it and I know what I'm looking for. You need to scratch around with a wire to find it. The hole controls idle so if you can't find it on your old one the new jet with it will allow you to idle.
Thanks! I watched your video - and had the intent of cleaning/rebuilding my carb. But i ended up finding a replacement carb on amazon- and it works like a charm - runs great! If i hadn't seen your video - i wouldn't have been brave enough to replace it. Appreciate your tips!
Thank you, it's amazing what we can learn from youtube and your videos. You give us all the confidence to tackle what seems so hard yet is relatively simple. My dad has been trying to start his snowblower without luck and after watching this and following your instructions we got it to start. Now, I've found so much more on your channel that I'm checking out other things I want to learn. Keep up the good work.
I know this is an old video but it helped me out. That little tiny hole mentioned at 6:25 I think is actually the primer hole. I was having problems with mine not priming and starting. I had it apart a couple months ago and cleaned it but it still would not prime. I was going to pull it apart again and decided to do some searching and I stumbled across this video and decided to watch it since it is exactly the motor I have. I did not know about that real tiny hole that is above the other hole, it almost looks like a spec of dirt. Got a piece of wire and poked through it. Sprayed cleaner through it and if you notice it sprays upward through that hole. That is when it dawned on me that this must be the hole that gas is forced up through when you pump the primer bulb. Finished cleaning it up and got it backed together. I pump it twice and can actually see fuel in the throat of the carburetor again. It took a little to get it started as I may have pumped it a third time and got too much fuel in it but it did fire up. Got it tuned again and today will see if it actually works like it has in the past as we have about 6" of snow and need to go blow snow. I also didn't want to go the route of one of those cheap nonadjustable carbs. Thank you again for making posting the video.
The tiny hole is for the fuel going to the idle circuit. The larger hole(main jet) is for priming. The primer is just an air pump and forces air into the bowl area. The bowl gasket needs to be air tight and the lower hole clear for fuel to be displaced with the air and forced up the emulsion tube into the throat of the carb.
@@sixtyfiveford I knew about the larger hole and it wasn't plugged. Never had a problem with idling. I never noticed the small hole but once cleaned it now primes so thought the air pumped into the bowl forced fuel into the large up the seat and through the small hole. I thought this since the small hole is angled upward. I guess I am wrong but all I know is that it now primes and starts without having to pull my arm off to get it running. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for the video. I was trying to see how difficult it would be to access the muffler, but thanks to your video it looks like a very simple job.
I do have a video on how a governor system works but you never need to adjust them. The slight surging is do to a lean idle passage/jet. Turn it out another 1/2 to 1 turn and see if it smooths out.
hey sixtyfiveford . my mtd 8hp snow thrower is 21 years old I never cleaned the carb once but I allways run the carburetor out of gas every time I use it . well this year I went to start it and it would run for a second and then die . I watched your video and thought yagh I could do that , but wasn't so confident on breaking down the carb to the level that you did although I probably could have , I left the carb on the machine took the bowl off and just removed the main jet and sure as shit the little holes had gunk in them I sprayed the jet as per your video and cleaned the holes with the wire like you did , reinstalled and the blower is running like it is brand new just wanted to say thanks for making the video so so so much and keep making them you rock dude, I didn't have the money this year to buy a new one . thanks again man .
I know what you mean, I was fed up loosing the tip. I got it off a WD -40 can (they still sell this style). I have used it on 30+ cans of carb cleaner and have loved it. I just pull off the stock sprayer and this one snaps right on.
Thanks for the videos. I have to adjust the idle screw - it stall under any load with the choke off - but it runs now whereas it didn't before. I just tackled my first job and did my driveway this morning (with choke on halfway) so now I will tinker with the adjustment screws. Starts on first pull with the choke on full. Thank you!
It can be cleaned up easily. Even if it looks slightly pitted or stained it will work fine. The reason it dies easily is; not enough fuel is reaching the engine through the main jet. A piece of fine stranded copper wire through the passages of the main jet will help ensure correct flow. There are 1 or 2 large holes at the base by the nut head, 1 super small one in the thread area, and one through the middle of the bolt(main jet). Carb cleaner will give you a good visual if flow is smooth.
Sixtyfiveford...I TRULY cant thank you enough for doing this video. My pops had very similar model and never...EVER...did tune up and the night before a big snow storm we asked him did you check to see if it works, his reply " it starts up every year, so its fine"...Im sure by now you see where this is going. Wake up next morning to him stressed out cause it will not start. So I had a little fun with him first and broke his balls about not checking it and etc etc, then broke his balls about not having a smart phone, which if he did he could youtube some videos. Just when I was about to see steam coming out of his ears...I took out my Note5 phone, searched and found your video...did everything you showed and it started right up. Again, I really cant thank you enough for putting this video up! YOUR THE BEST
Thank you, thank you, thank you. We are expecting 4 to 9 inches of snow tonight and my Craftsman 5 hp snow thrower would not start. Your video was tremendously helpful and did the job.
Hi 65, I finally got it all rebuilt just as you did in this video, I think your video is the most precise one on TH-cam thank you... Today I put the carb back on and she fired up on the second pull and it runs real smooth, the only thing I have to do is adjust the idle mix screw a wee bit as it goes up and down a little on idle but starts on the 1st pull without the choke as it was 60 degrees today. Have you ever done a Video on adjusting the governor or changing the auger belts? Thanks !!
great video man, it was a good idea to make it in hi-def now you can really see the parts clearly. have the same model engine on my troy built 5hp snowblower, thing wasnt running unless on full or 3/4 choke so i pulled the carb thanks to your video and sprayed it with some good ol' supertech carb cleaner and soaked it over night ran good as new. also thank you for the close up on the main jet, wouldve never known to clean that its so tiny. well thanks again keep up the good work!
Thanks. Sorry it didn't work out but $38 is a great deal. My little Vado HD has put quite the mileage on her and has taken a fair amount of bumps and bruises (probably the best $100 bucks I've ever spent on a video camera).
hey, thanks for the great video. I had taken my carb apart and cleaned it. Noticed I have a very small gas leak (small drop at end of main jet adjustment screw). I took the main jet back out and noticed the o-ring is a little cracked so ordered new one. But closer inspection of your vid at 9:32 you mention a brass washer. I must have lost mine as I no longer have it on the main jet assembly. Likely why it's leaking ;) Where do you think I could source this? Hate to spend $20 for whole new main jet assembly when all I need is that little washer. Do you have ID/OD measurements? Thx
The washer simply keeps the spring from cutting into the oring. You can find a random washer or make one out of something like a milk jug(drill bit+scissors)
I got a new kit to rebuild with, and you're right there IS a second hole and wow is it tiny. It's like the size of a human hair on the tip of the second thread right on the crown of the thread. I couldn't find it on my old one until I lightly touched it with a fine brass wire toothbrush...boy is it small.. I plan on using the new one.. Would you recommend something like Vaseline or Plumber grease on the new O'ring for the bowl? Or just leave it dry ? Thanks...
Dead on instructions....and the night before a snowstorm. Thanks so much for taking the time to put it together. I can leave the shovel hanging on the wall tomorrow!!
All good stuff, this and all your other videos. Question, I have a gas gas leak and therefore a strong odor, do I need to run through this entire process or is there something less that can be done to fix this. Where should my focus be? The float?
I found all you vids excellent and easy to follow. Great help in cleaning a similar carb on my 2 stage Ariens. Like your flaps on the 2 stage for non-clogging and better throw.
Hi again 65... Do you think I can just remove the idle jet screw and push carb cleaner through that hole without removing the carb to see if it will idle smooth without surging up and down? If not I guess I'll have to remove the carb and take it all apart and re-do it... hate to do it all over but oh well I should have cleaned the gas tank I'm sure..... thanks....
Hi, I tried everything, again, ran cleaner into idle port hole no luck, took carb apart redid the entire thing, still wouldn't idle, it ran great on high speed though , so it must have a real bad obstruction in idle passage somewhere. The good news is I got a NEW carb with FULL adjustments for $38 and it runs as it should. Sorry for all the notes, but if not for your HD Video I'd have been lost. Thank you again, you really save the day. Make more Vids, we love them !! what camera do you use?
was just about to give up on this carb getting it to idle. Cleaned it too much on and off 3 times, saw your vid and the magic idle hole on the adj main jet/bowl nut. couldn't even see the hole. till I cleaned it with 0000 steel wool, and yep it was clogged. Strangest place for idle fuel supply. tuned carb and runs perf, thx again for sharing
Have not seen a lot but wow great video. Very thorough and pointing things out. Love the replace screw in the hole so you don't lose it . Need to fix something now , thanks
Thanks for the video it really helped me in getting my snowblower going . Especially the part about the pin hole on the jet didn't see it the first time I tried to get it going
You can also try my quick 5 minute clean and see if that gets you going before you rip into it. Look on my channel under Tecumseh and you should find it.
Great video, just what I was looking for, I have the exact same snow blower , same carb, as yours but my main jet only has the one tiny hole in the side near the bottom. I notice all the rebuild kits ( 31840 ) show main jet with the tiny hole at the top as you have. Will those work ok since my jet only has the one tiny hole? I've looked with a huge magnifier and there is no second hole on mine...Its been cleaned with carb cleaner and looks like new but no second hole.. thanks again...
I inherited a snow blower that is it running. If you put a little gas in with the spark plug it will run but i when it runs out. When you push the primer button nothing happens. if you cover the hole in the primer button you can't depress it. It's like pushing on a balloon. Does this mean the primer line and the carb are all just full of junk? Great video.
I cleaned it out and everything worked good but when I put it back together no gas flowed in. Took it apart and the little rubber ring the float needle goes into was falling apart so I'll be finding one of those tomorrow.
It is generally sold with a needle in a set. You can find them on Ebay for a couple bucks. FYI the ridges go away from the needle when you reinstall it.
Wow, awesome video sixtyfiveford. Thanks a lot. Makes me want to give it a shot. Would compressed air help to clean out the jets, or would it make things worse?
Hello Bruce P., How much does a jack stand like yours cost now, in the ballpark, and where can I find something that wide to support a 23” snow blower? If I could get it, it will save me a lot of backache later. My blower won’t start. It’s exactly a 5-horsepower Craftsman, but with an electric starter. Your clips are very helpful! Thank you!
Greta video. Have this same engine on my MTD. It was running but bogging down whenever any load was put on it. Cleaned the carb, replaced the spark plug and checked fuel lines. Now it won't start. It'll start briefly if I spray carb cleaner in the carb but only for a few second then dies down. When I prime it, it doesn't seem to be putting any gas in the carb either. Any ideas? Many thanks!
+Brian Pittman Make sure gas is flowing into the carb by loosening the main jet and seeing it gas leaks out. If it is then it's your Main jet. If it is fixed(looks just like bolt) it just needs thorough cleaning. If it is adjustable(bolt with a screw coming out of it) it needs cleaning but will also benefit from adjusting. To adjust it, screw it out(counter clockwise).
great video thanks. I did all that during a storm. turned out that the problem was the gas did not make it to the carburator, the tank cap was screwed too tight and the gas was hardly getting out of the tank. that kind of shit ALWAYS happends during the worst snow storms
I have a self propelled Craftsman EAGER 1 Mower. Will start run for about a minute & then stall. Have to wait a couple of minutes & prime , the same. It has a carb that I cannot find in any video. Part # 7.538F7H the Model # is 917 377 362 the Engine # is 143.976602. The jet is plastic, the bowl is plastic. I sprayed whatever ports I found out. The needle is held by plastic so I did not take it apart but blew into the carb. Air passes when held upright & does not when upside down. Any help
If the green wire is off the terminal will the engine still run ? I couldn't get an older Murray snowblower to run and while watching this video it dawned on me that the wire is off the terminal. The machine is at another location so I just can't run out and check it. Great video I'll have to clean the carb while I have it open.
I have a fixed jet. I took it out and gave it a good cleaning. One year i forget to purge the bowl of gas and it gunked up. The area where the o ring sit in the bowl is rough from gunk. Should the bowl be replaced or can i take an abrasive pad and clean it up.
good video. Do you have to wear goggles and a mask when working with cleaning fluids? I've noticed a lot of warnings on some cleaning fluids about not breathing the vapors. I'm very safety conscience. Thanks
Carb cleaner is basically nail polish remover(Acetone). Small doses won't hurt you but prolonged exposure; maybe? Nail salons use it on skin all the time. Eye protection is always wise.
Bad news I tried adjusting the idle screw but it doesnt seem to do anything no matter where I set it to, the engine doenst change it just idles up and down in surges, not too bad but it's not right. I wonder if I didnt get enough carb cleaner to the idle passages, or should have washed out the gas tank when I had the carb off since it had real old gas in it that had turned orange. It starts first pull, and runs great on high and med speed but idle is rough. Might have to pull it and do over ?
Great video, however when I was snugging the bolt up after clearing the clogged hole, the bolt broke off right in the middle of the threads. I was able to get the broken part out, but any idea where I could get a new one? Do they even make them anymore?
Hey, just thought id let you know, after I did everything from your video, it runs like a champ! Just like you said...like new! You rock bro! Keep up the awesome videos bro! Ad glad you saw my zip line video!
I have an Ariens Snow Blower with an 11.5 hp Tecumseh Snow king motor. I am considering just buying a new carb, because I haven't had much success rebuilding mine. Do you know if I can buy a replacement that uses the adjustable jet? My current is a fixed jet. The motor is an OH318SA.
My blower leaks gas out the carb when I push the primer bulb and will not start (no gas evident on the spark plug and it WILL start with a spritz of starting fluid in the plug hole). It runs great once it starts though. Is this a plugged jet? How does the bulb push gas into the cylinder? Thanks in advance.
The primer button forces air into the carburetor fuel bowl. There it displaces fuel that is forced up into the throat of the carb and it will dribble out the front. You shouldn't see any on the spark plug as that would be a flooded engine and would never start. I would make sure the choke is fully closing. The air bleed at the mouth of the carb that leads down to the main jet could also be plugged up.
Great video. Quick question. I changed my spark plug, cleaned the carb (using your videos) and put in fresh gasoline. Now, I want to say that the snowblower was running fine after changing the spark plug, but I just got this snowblower so wanted to make sure the carb was fully cleaned... so I cleaned it. Now, after reassembling, it was initially leaking gas out of the carb bowl... I fixed that issue by readjusting the needle on the float. My problem is now, the snowblower will start after pulling the cord, but it dies within 1-2 seconds before I can even turn the choke off.... could you please help? Want to get this up and running again before winter. Wish I would have never messed with it since it was running just fine, but I do know how to clean carbs now. I know this is some kind of fuel starvation problem within the carb but don't know how to fix it. P.S. - could this have anything to do with the governor spring.. I forgot to scratch where it came out of and I don't believe I have the spring in the right place, just didn't know if that could be a cause? Edit - must have been the governor spring because I hooked it up in a different hole and it ran like a charm! Thanks again for the great video!
Thanks for the informative cleaning tutorial. The very small hole that you were pointing out in the vid was clogged on my snow blower. Been having idling issues and sometimes chokes at full throttle. After cleaning it out it runs like new again. Such an easy fix :P
I have a video on the carb ( tecumseh composite machined carb rebuild). Your issue is: pluged gas cap air vent (try running engine with loose or off cap), restricted fuel line, or swollen needle seat from ethanol in the fuel.. Look on my channel for that video.
If it plugs up and then dies watch my video called: "Modify a snowblower to never clog and throw 2x as far" If it just wants to cut out when it starts hitting a heavy load the carb isn't delivering enough fuel to the engine. Does your carb have an adjustable main jet(bolt with center screw located on very bottom of the carb like the one in this video 5:15) or a fixed main jet shown at 5:25?
Hey thanks for the video. I cleaned everything with carb cleaner but my snowblower still won't go. Appears it's not getting any fuel. I order a brand new Chinese carb for cheap. We'll see how that works.
How does gas get into the oil...I have a generator and a snow blower with the same problem...I have a habit at the end of the year to empty the tanks on all my machines and then let them run and stall before I put them away for the season...This year I filled the tanks with gas,did routine maintenance, started them and all was good...Three days later, no gas in the tanks and I could smell fuel mixed with the oil...The problem seemed to clear, but I'm concerned this problem may come back...I'd like to address it now, thanks Bob
Robert Fields The float in the carb sticks and allows fuel to run into the valve or piston area. From there is weeps past the valve stem and oil piston rings into the oil. A good amount will also evaporate.
Hello Ford I got a Problem With my Snowblower Same Engine. I believe it Might be the Choke.. the snow blower will run fine till it warms up about 10-15 min.. Then it dies outs. I need to wait till it cools off or it wont start... Once it is cold again it will start up fine... Any sugestions on this thanks...
Hey, where did you get the spray head that you are using? That looks really handy! I recently shot a loose spray wand into the intake of my car. :-( A nice robust spray head like you use would have eliminated that issue. Love your vids!
I have an old Tecumseh engine from the 1970's. It was on a Sears machine of some type, and its model number is 143 627 012. It has double sprocket centrifugal clutch, and only two hours worth of use. My son and I want to use it for a go kart. Would you know of a replacement carb for this engine more appropriate for our new purpose, or should we try and get all the hardened varnish out of the original? thank you
+Myron Piano Usually the hardened varnish will dissolve within minutes with a little carb cleaner and you'll be back up and going. Your Tecumseh model number is HS40-55382C . So it is a 4hp engine which is a little under powered for a go cart but will work with a light go kart. There isn't a replacement carb but all the wearable parts are available. You'll probably also need to tackle points and condensor at some point: th-cam.com/video/HV9MJwsUP_4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the help. My sense is that the carburetor is rather primitive. It has 399 1H5 on it, and it does not contain the throttle which is located in the tube the carb connects to. Also there is NO adjustable needle valve. I believe the engine was running quite rich; that's why I would like to replace it. Could I use a carb off the internet that works for a HS-40 and leave the original throttle in the wide open position. Also, do you use synthetic oil in a kart engine? I have always used straight 30 for lawn mowers.
As far as primitive a new carb would be identical except have fixed jets vs adjustable. You'll want to retain the governor setup unless you want it to blow up so an oem style carb is a must. There isn't a direct replacement for this carb. If there is not an adjustable needle valve on the bottom of the bowl then someone has changed it out or added a different carb already as Tecumseh didn't start doing this until the 90's. SAE30 is the best for them.
I need advice on a 9hp Tecumseh/craftsman that is giving me fits. I’ve cleaned it, I’ve completely rebuilt it, I’ve even given it a good, long Ultrasonic bath. But the only thing I’ve corrected is it will now idle steady. I cannot run the snowblower unless I am either full choke or one step from it. If I even try to click in the middle choke position, and especially off choke entirely, the thing just dies right away. Fuel is fresh, plug is fresh. And like I said, everything except for the carb body is fresh, as well. I have not adjusted throttle screw or idle speed, but that’s about it. Where should I go from here?
Just the bolt type jet, with the two main holes and a single small hole on the first thread. This feeds to a green plastic main nozzle tube that has two o-rings on it. The bolt/jet is literally the only piece other than the carb body that I have not replaced.
The hole down the center is the main jet. It connects to the two large holes. It is either blocked or has tarnish and needs a wire ran in and out of it. I'm not talking about the tiny hole by the threads.
Right. At this point, I've done all the cleaning I feel I can do on it. The holes are open and clear and I can see light easily through, or spray cleaner easily through. So I'm ordering a new one. I am not the first person to get inside this carb, and I'm starting to wonder if someone enlarged any of these holes by intent or mistake. The two intake holes in this nut do not even appear true and round, which differs from any picture I can find of it. They are ovals - like the shape of a race track. If my supplier has the part in stock, then I'll have it tonight and see if this was the fix.
I have the same machine with the carb with the other jet you show. Also the secondary jet is fixed to the body without a slot for adjustment. After a second clean, it would seem it still does not run well. Any tips for this model? TIA
The fixed idle jet will come out, it just has a little plastic cap on it. Pick it off with a sharp awl or similar and it will expose the screw head. If the engine is surging, the idle passage/jet is clogged If the engine requires choke to be on to stay running the main jet/passage is clogged.
Thank you for the tip. I took that jet cover off and that jet seemed ok, but the passageway was blocked (got a little carb cleaner in the eye ugg) Ill put some air to it to see if I can unclog it. Thank you for all your help.Hopefully 4th time apart is a charm.
rogue203 Just make sure all the passages are clean and you'll be good to go. In this video I show the fixed jet cleaning th-cam.com/video/KYj5oH0vNVg/w-d-xo.html
Yup, The main was clogged. When I shot Carb cleaner down from the top nothing came out the 2 holes on the base. Used the copper wire and all good now! Great videos! I subscribed to your channel! Thanks!!
You don't need the needle as much as the rubber seat, that seals the needle. You might as well replace the bowl gasket along with the main jet/nut fiber gasket as they're all cheap. amzn.to/3Wo7hKM You pull the old needle seat by inserting a course sheetrock/ deck. Screw down into the hole and pull it out with a slight twist. You then put the new seat in, with the ridges towards the carb with a blunt tool and or the back side of the needle until it seated.
How do I figure out which model Tecumseh carb came on my 2004 Ariens 524 snow blower? I do not see a model number listed in any of the manuals? It looks very much like the one you work on in the video with the small drain screw off to the side, but just a plain center bolt without any adjustment. Gas is now dripping out of the small drain screw and motor cuts off after a few minutes of use.
The model number is located on the side of the pull start shroud on a decal. If it is not there it is on the very top of the shroud stamped into the steel.
У мене не хочет заводится снегоуборщик murray с двигателем Tecumseh ,на карбюраторе нажимаю на клапан с пружинкой , сливаю из него бензин , после этого он заводится , что нужно сделать что бы работало без сливания
Robert Fields I really see no point in using compressed air. Carb cleaner gives you a visual reference to see how passages are flowing. Compressed air gives you no visual cues. Also gummed up gas can't be dislodged by force(compressed air) it needs to be dissolved. So after you clean it with carb cleaner there is really no point in blowing compressed air through it.
Awesome video. My snowblower had the problem you described - it would only run with the choke fully engaged, and even then it would just barely keep running. I resolved the problem with a quicker version of your fix. I removed the shroud but did not remove the primer hose or fuel hose. I used a small C clamp to pinch the fuel hose behind the plastic fuel inlet to cut off the fuel supply. I put an empty plastic yogurt container under carb bowl. My version had a fixed jet as you described, so I used a 1/2" wrench to remove the jet and let the small amount of fuel drain into the yogurt container. I did not remove the bowl. I cleaned the jet with carb cleaner and a wire as you showed. I also sprayed carb cleaner down the throttle body which flushed some dirt through the bowl into the yogurt container. Replaced the jet, removed the C clamp, replaced the shroud, started it up, and it's running like the day I bought it!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. Never cleaned a carburetor before, but followed your video and got it completely cleaned. My neighbors and I have shared our Craftsman snowblower for 11 years and now it runs like new. Thank you so much...very helpful!
I'm glad the video helped. Thanks for the comment.
Its Jan of 2019 and this video just walked me through cleaning up my snow blowers carburetor. I followed all the steps and it fired up on the first pull! I did add a little Seafoam to the fresh gas. Thank you very much for taking the time to upload this. Saved me at least $100.
Awesome, I'm glad the video was helpful.
Thanks I bought an old used snowblower last fall, never needed one before I bought this house with a long driveway.
The thing ran great all last winter but I was thinking it’s about time to give it a little tlc while the sun is shining.
Your video was very helpful, never worked on one of these techumse engine carburetors so your details and tips about the position of all the linkages are very helpful.
Going to pull it off this afternoon and give it a go.
Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I owe you a beer. I followed your instructions and had my snowblower running like new in just a few minutes. your video saved me $$ Thanks!!
Awesome, I'm glad it helped.
Excellent video! Thanks for making this. You just helped me get my snowblower running again after being in storage all summer! The tiny hole on the needle valve was clogged. I never even knew it was there! Used a coper wire to clean it and now my snowblower starts up and runs great again!
Awesome. Glad the video helped.
Compressed air is a trick used on larger carbs with large jets and passages. Carb cleaner allows you to physically see if a jet is flowing properly through these tiny passages. It wont hurt to use compressed air but it doesn't really benefit it either.
Thanks for watching. Kirkland (Costco) Nitril. Carb cleaner eats them but not as fast as other gloves. They seem to hold up better and if you do get a tear they dont continue to tear.
If you have an adjustable jet it will have the little hole. Sometimes it's in the top threads. It gets plugged and looks like it is not there in this video I have a hard time finding it and I know what I'm looking for. You need to scratch around with a wire to find it. The hole controls idle so if you can't find it on your old one the new jet with it will allow you to idle.
Thanks! I watched your video - and had the intent of cleaning/rebuilding my carb. But i ended up finding a replacement carb on amazon- and it works like a charm - runs great! If i hadn't seen your video - i wouldn't have been brave enough to replace it. Appreciate your tips!
Awesome, I'm glad you liked it.
Thank you, it's amazing what we can learn from youtube and your videos. You give us all the confidence to tackle what seems so hard yet is relatively simple.
My dad has been trying to start his snowblower without luck and after watching this and following your instructions we got it to start.
Now, I've found so much more on your channel that I'm checking out other things I want to learn.
Keep up the good work.
That's great. I'm glad it was helpful.
Giving Me confidence, TYSM .🔧
Yes you can. I do this quit a bit on machines. Pull the spray tube in and out of the hole while spraying.
I know this is an old video but it helped me out. That little tiny hole mentioned at 6:25 I think is actually the primer hole. I was having problems with mine not priming and starting. I had it apart a couple months ago and cleaned it but it still would not prime. I was going to pull it apart again and decided to do some searching and I stumbled across this video and decided to watch it since it is exactly the motor I have. I did not know about that real tiny hole that is above the other hole, it almost looks like a spec of dirt. Got a piece of wire and poked through it. Sprayed cleaner through it and if you notice it sprays upward through that hole. That is when it dawned on me that this must be the hole that gas is forced up through when you pump the primer bulb. Finished cleaning it up and got it backed together. I pump it twice and can actually see fuel in the throat of the carburetor again. It took a little to get it started as I may have pumped it a third time and got too much fuel in it but it did fire up. Got it tuned again and today will see if it actually works like it has in the past as we have about 6" of snow and need to go blow snow. I also didn't want to go the route of one of those cheap nonadjustable carbs.
Thank you again for making posting the video.
The tiny hole is for the fuel going to the idle circuit. The larger hole(main jet) is for priming. The primer is just an air pump and forces air into the bowl area. The bowl gasket needs to be air tight and the lower hole clear for fuel to be displaced with the air and forced up the emulsion tube into the throat of the carb.
@@sixtyfiveford I knew about the larger hole and it wasn't plugged. Never had a problem with idling. I never noticed the small hole but once cleaned it now primes so thought the air pumped into the bowl forced fuel into the large up the seat and through the small hole. I thought this since the small hole is angled upward. I guess I am wrong but all I know is that it now primes and starts without having to pull my arm off to get it running. Thanks for the info.
Thank you for the video. I was trying to see how difficult it would be to access the muffler, but thanks to your video it looks like a very simple job.
I do have a video on how a governor system works but you never need to adjust them. The slight surging is do to a lean idle passage/jet. Turn it out another 1/2 to 1 turn and see if it smooths out.
@Garen15 Main jet is clogged. Excessive priming will cause fuel to leak out throat of carb. You definitely need to tear into it.
hey sixtyfiveford . my mtd 8hp snow thrower is 21 years old I never cleaned the carb once but I allways run the carburetor out of gas every time I use it . well this year I went to start it and it would run for a second and then die . I watched your video and thought yagh I could do that , but wasn't so confident on breaking down the carb to the level that you did although I probably could have , I left the carb on the machine took the bowl off and just removed the main jet and sure as shit the little holes had gunk in them I sprayed the jet as per your video and cleaned the holes with the wire like you did , reinstalled and the blower is running like it is brand new just wanted to say thanks for making the video so so so much and keep making them you rock dude, I didn't have the money this year to buy a new one . thanks again man .
That's great. I'm glad the video was helpful.
I know what you mean, I was fed up loosing the tip. I got it off a WD -40 can (they still sell this style). I have used it on 30+ cans of carb cleaner and have loved it. I just pull off the stock sprayer and this one snaps right on.
Thanks for the videos. I have to adjust the idle screw - it stall under any load with the choke off - but it runs now whereas it didn't before. I just tackled my first job and did my driveway this morning (with choke on halfway) so now I will tinker with the adjustment screws. Starts on first pull with the choke on full. Thank you!
Your main jet is clogged or if it is adjustable it needs 1/4-1/2 turn out(bolt w/screw on very bottom).
It can be cleaned up easily. Even if it looks slightly pitted or stained it will work fine.
The reason it dies easily is; not enough fuel is reaching the engine through the main jet. A piece of fine stranded copper wire through the passages of the main jet will help ensure correct flow. There are 1 or 2 large holes at the base by the nut head, 1 super small one in the thread area, and one through the middle of the bolt(main jet). Carb cleaner will give you a good visual if flow is smooth.
I just want to say thank you for your video you help me get my snowblower up and running this year
Awesome, I'm glad you liked it.
very helpful video, do have a question? can oil get into carburetor by picking up lifting up or shifting it side ways
Sixtyfiveford...I TRULY cant thank you enough for doing this video. My pops had very similar model and never...EVER...did tune up and the night before a big snow storm we asked him did you check to see if it works, his reply " it starts up every year, so its fine"...Im sure by now you see where this is going. Wake up next morning to him stressed out cause it will not start. So I had a little fun with him first and broke his balls about not checking it and etc etc, then broke his balls about not having a smart phone, which if he did he could youtube some videos. Just when I was about to see steam coming out of his ears...I took out my Note5 phone, searched and found your video...did everything you showed and it started right up. Again, I really cant thank you enough for putting this video up! YOUR THE BEST
Great story. Thanks for watching.
Helpful video. Thanks for posting. Now I'm all set for the blizzard tomorrow.
+Steve Hart Great. Good luck.
Thanks for keeping me from over trouble shooting my snowblower repair. Great video
I'm glad it was helpful.
Awesome. Thanks for the comments, -Moe
Thank you so so much just cleaned up my carb and was able to get it the snowblower going for this storm here today. Thanks again
You're welcome.
Thank you, thank you, thank you. We are expecting 4 to 9 inches of snow tonight and my Craftsman 5 hp snow thrower would not start. Your video was tremendously helpful and did the job.
GREAT.. I'm glad that it helped.
The snow thrower works but now is leaking gas. I am not sure yet where it is coming from. I suspect it is the rubber casket.
Hi 65, I finally got it all rebuilt just as you did in this video, I think your video is the most precise one on TH-cam thank you... Today I put the carb back on and she fired up on the second pull and it runs real smooth, the only thing I have to do is adjust the idle mix screw a wee bit as it goes up and down a little on idle but starts on the 1st pull without the choke as it was 60 degrees today. Have you ever done a Video on adjusting the governor or changing the auger belts? Thanks !!
Man you rock. Best instructional video I've seen on carb repair.
great video man, it was a good idea to make it in hi-def now you can really see the parts clearly. have the same model engine on my troy built 5hp snowblower, thing wasnt running unless on full or 3/4 choke so i pulled the carb thanks to your video and sprayed it with some good ol' supertech carb cleaner and soaked it over night ran good as new. also thank you for the close up on the main jet, wouldve never known to clean that its so tiny. well thanks again keep up the good work!
Thanks. Sorry it didn't work out but $38 is a great deal. My little Vado HD has put quite the mileage on her and has taken a fair amount of bumps and bruises (probably the best $100 bucks I've ever spent on a video camera).
hey, thanks for the great video. I had taken my carb apart and cleaned it. Noticed I have a very small gas leak (small drop at end of main jet adjustment screw). I took the main jet back out and noticed the o-ring is a little cracked so ordered new one. But closer inspection of your vid at 9:32 you mention a brass washer. I must have lost mine as I no longer have it on the main jet assembly. Likely why it's leaking ;) Where do you think I could source this? Hate to spend $20 for whole new main jet assembly when all I need is that little washer. Do you have ID/OD measurements? Thx
The washer simply keeps the spring from cutting into the oring. You can find a random washer or make one out of something like a milk jug(drill bit+scissors)
I got a new kit to rebuild with, and you're right there IS a second hole and wow is it tiny. It's like the size of a human hair on the tip of the second thread right on the crown of the thread. I couldn't find it on my old one until I lightly touched it with a fine brass wire toothbrush...boy is it small.. I plan on using the new one.. Would you recommend something like Vaseline or Plumber grease on the new O'ring for the bowl? Or just leave it dry ? Thanks...
Thanks bud, I've been trying to get mine running all day, I cleaned the carb and didn't notice that spot
Thanks!! Stuck throttle...FIXED ...runs great! Ready 4 this snow storm on the way.
+JOEL LYLES I'm glad it was an easy fix.
Dead on instructions....and the night before a snowstorm. Thanks so much for taking the time to put it together. I can leave the shovel hanging on the wall tomorrow!!
Great to hear, you're welcome.
Thank you for the help. You are a very good teacher, explaining every detail. Keep up the good work.
All good stuff, this and all your other videos. Question, I have a gas gas leak and therefore a strong odor, do I need to run through this entire process or is there something less that can be done to fix this. Where should my focus be? The float?
I found all you vids excellent and easy to follow. Great help in cleaning a similar carb on my 2 stage Ariens. Like your flaps on the 2 stage for non-clogging and better throw.
Thanks, I'm glad they were helpful.
Hi again 65... Do you think I can just remove the idle jet screw and push carb cleaner through that hole without removing the carb to see if it will idle smooth without surging up and down? If not I guess I'll have to remove the carb and take it all apart and re-do it... hate to do it all over but oh well I should have cleaned the gas tank I'm sure..... thanks....
Mine was the last fix.The main under the float needle. But the local auto shop has the small kit for that.
Hi, I tried everything, again, ran cleaner into idle port hole no luck, took carb apart redid the entire thing, still wouldn't idle, it ran great on high speed though , so it must have a real bad obstruction in idle passage somewhere. The good news is I got a NEW carb with FULL adjustments for $38 and it runs as it should. Sorry for all the notes, but if not for your HD Video I'd have been lost. Thank you again, you really save the day. Make more Vids, we love them !! what camera do you use?
was just about to give up on this carb getting it to idle. Cleaned it too much on and off 3 times, saw your vid and the magic idle hole on the adj main jet/bowl nut. couldn't even see the hole. till I cleaned it with 0000 steel wool, and yep it was clogged. Strangest place for idle fuel supply. tuned carb and runs perf, thx again for sharing
shawn groom Awesome. I'm glad you found the video.
I would just leave it dry. Awesome I'm glad you found the tiny hole it blends in so well.
Have not seen a lot but wow great video. Very thorough and pointing things out. Love the replace screw in the hole so you don't lose it . Need to fix something now , thanks
Hey Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thanks for the video it really helped me in getting my snowblower going . Especially the part about the pin hole on the jet didn't see it the first time I tried to get it going
MrFitz4012 Awesome. Glad the video helped.
No more shoveling for me
Thanks, there buddy. I have a 5hp yard works snowblower. Is it the same motor?
You can also try my quick 5 minute clean and see if that gets you going before you rip into it. Look on my channel under Tecumseh and you should find it.
Thank you very much! This gave me the confidence to do it and saved me from a weekend of shoveling.
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it.
Thank you so much, great instructional videos. You're a natural teacher
Thanks, I'm glad you liked the video.
Awesome.
Great video, just what I was looking for, I have the exact same snow blower , same carb, as yours but my main jet only has the one tiny hole in the side near the bottom. I notice all the rebuild kits ( 31840 ) show main jet with the tiny hole at the top as you have. Will those work ok since my jet only has the one tiny hole? I've looked with a huge magnifier and there is no second hole on mine...Its been cleaned with carb cleaner and looks like new but no second hole.. thanks again...
I inherited a snow blower that is it running. If you put a little gas in with the spark plug it will run but i when it runs out. When you push the primer button nothing happens. if you cover the hole in the primer button you can't depress it. It's like pushing on a balloon. Does this mean the primer line and the carb are all just full of junk? Great video.
Clark Osborn Yes, your carb is full of green stinky gas. Do a quick clean and you'll be back up and going in no time.
I cleaned it out and everything worked good but when I put it back together no gas flowed in. Took it apart and the little rubber ring the float needle goes into was falling apart so I'll be finding one of those tomorrow.
It is generally sold with a needle in a set. You can find them on Ebay for a couple bucks. FYI the ridges go away from the needle when you reinstall it.
sixtyfiveford it's running great. Thanks for your help.
Great work.
If it is leaking out the mouth of the carb then it is your needle/seat or float.
Wow, awesome video sixtyfiveford. Thanks a lot. Makes me want to give it a shot. Would compressed air help to clean out the jets, or would it make things worse?
Hello Bruce P.,
How much does a jack stand like yours cost now, in the ballpark, and where can I find something that wide to support a 23” snow blower? If I could get it, it will save me a lot of backache later. My blower won’t start. It’s exactly a 5-horsepower Craftsman, but with an electric starter.
Your clips are very helpful! Thank you!
In this video I had the snowblower on a Rear Trailer Hitch Rack that I made. A lot of small engine guys buy the Harbor Freight lift table for $170.
Great detail. Thank you. Funny to see the carb cleaner flying all over the place in your work area, Ha!
Greta video. Have this same engine on my MTD. It was running but bogging down whenever any load was put on it. Cleaned the carb, replaced the spark plug and checked fuel lines. Now it won't start. It'll start briefly if I spray carb cleaner in the carb but only for a few second then dies down. When I prime it, it doesn't seem to be putting any gas in the carb either. Any ideas? Many thanks!
+Brian Pittman Make sure gas is flowing into the carb by loosening the main jet and seeing it gas leaks out. If it is then it's your Main jet. If it is fixed(looks just like bolt) it just needs thorough cleaning. If it is adjustable(bolt with a screw coming out of it) it needs cleaning but will also benefit from adjusting. To adjust it, screw it out(counter clockwise).
great video thanks. I did all that during a storm. turned out that the problem was the gas did not make it to the carburator, the tank cap was screwed too tight and the gas was hardly getting out of the tank. that kind of shit ALWAYS happends during the worst snow storms
Awesome, I'm glad it was useful.
I have a self propelled Craftsman EAGER 1 Mower. Will start run for about a minute & then stall. Have to wait a couple of minutes & prime , the same. It has a carb that I cannot find in any video. Part # 7.538F7H the Model # is 917 377 362 the Engine # is 143.976602. The jet is plastic, the bowl is plastic. I sprayed whatever ports I found out. The needle is held by plastic so I did not take it apart but blew into the carb. Air passes when held upright & does not when upside down. Any help
Thanks for the video, it helped me get my snow blower running again.
Awesome, I'm glad it was helpful.
You're welcome. Now your a professional carb technician.
-Moe
Thanks. Glad it's up and going good.
If the green wire is off the terminal will the engine still run ? I couldn't get an older Murray snowblower to run and while watching this video it dawned on me that the wire is off the terminal. The machine is at another location so I just can't run out and check it. Great video I'll have to clean the carb while I have it open.
If the wire is off and not touching anything it will run. The wire grounds out the spark.
Thanks, I'll have to clean the carb and order a new control lever since it broke, lol
Let me know how it goes.
k
I have a fixed jet. I took it out and gave it a good cleaning. One year i forget to purge the bowl of gas and it gunked up. The area where the o ring sit in the bowl is rough from gunk. Should the bowl be replaced or can i take an abrasive pad and clean it up.
good video. Do you have to wear goggles and a mask when working with cleaning fluids? I've noticed a lot of warnings on some cleaning fluids about not breathing the vapors. I'm very safety conscience. Thanks
Carb cleaner is basically nail polish remover(Acetone). Small doses won't hurt you but prolonged exposure; maybe? Nail salons use it on skin all the time. Eye protection is always wise.
Bad news I tried adjusting the idle screw but it doesnt seem to do anything no matter where I set it to, the engine doenst change it just idles up and down in surges, not too bad but it's not right. I wonder if I didnt get enough carb cleaner to the idle passages, or should have washed out the gas tank when I had the carb off since it had real old gas in it that had turned orange. It starts first pull, and runs great on high and med speed but idle is rough. Might have to pull it and do over ?
Great! I hope it helped
Great video, however when I was snugging the bolt up after clearing the clogged hole, the bolt broke off right in the middle of the threads. I was able to get the broken part out, but any idea where I could get a new one? Do they even make them anymore?
Are you talking about the main jet?
snowblowers don't have air filters. They would ice up and snowblowers don't work in dusty environments.
Hey, just thought id let you know, after I did everything from your video, it runs like a champ! Just like you said...like new! You rock bro! Keep up the awesome videos bro! Ad glad you saw my zip line video!
I have an Ariens Snow Blower with an 11.5 hp Tecumseh Snow king motor. I am considering just buying a new carb, because I haven't had much success rebuilding mine. Do you know if I can buy a replacement that uses the adjustable jet? My current is a fixed jet. The motor is an OH318SA.
They are banned by the EPA.
My blower leaks gas out the carb when I push the primer bulb and will not start (no gas evident on the spark plug and it WILL start with a spritz of starting fluid in the plug hole). It runs great once it starts though. Is this a plugged jet? How does the bulb push gas into the cylinder? Thanks in advance.
The primer button forces air into the carburetor fuel bowl. There it displaces fuel that is forced up into the throat of the carb and it will dribble out the front. You shouldn't see any on the spark plug as that would be a flooded engine and would never start. I would make sure the choke is fully closing. The air bleed at the mouth of the carb that leads down to the main jet could also be plugged up.
Great video. Quick question. I changed my spark plug, cleaned the carb (using your videos) and put in fresh gasoline. Now, I want to say that the snowblower was running fine after changing the spark plug, but I just got this snowblower so wanted to make sure the carb was fully cleaned... so I cleaned it. Now, after reassembling, it was initially leaking gas out of the carb bowl... I fixed that issue by readjusting the needle on the float. My problem is now, the snowblower will start after pulling the cord, but it dies within 1-2 seconds before I can even turn the choke off.... could you please help? Want to get this up and running again before winter. Wish I would have never messed with it since it was running just fine, but I do know how to clean carbs now. I know this is some kind of fuel starvation problem within the carb but don't know how to fix it.
P.S. - could this have anything to do with the governor spring.. I forgot to scratch where it came out of and I don't believe I have the spring in the right place, just didn't know if that could be a cause?
Edit - must have been the governor spring because I hooked it up in a different hole and it ran like a charm! Thanks again for the great video!
Glad you got her going. Your issue sounded like a partially plugged main jet or water in the fuel blocking the main jet.
Thanks for the informative cleaning tutorial. The very small hole that you were pointing out in the vid was clogged on my snow blower. Been having idling issues and sometimes chokes at full throttle. After cleaning it out it runs like new again. Such an easy fix :P
Awesome. Glad I could help.
Thank you, This saved me a bunch of headache learning the hard way!
I'm glad it was helpful.
I have a video on the carb ( tecumseh composite machined carb rebuild). Your issue is: pluged gas cap air vent (try running engine with loose or off cap), restricted fuel line, or swollen needle seat from ethanol in the fuel.. Look on my channel for that video.
Ty soooo much. I was looking for the carb throttle hole. You are the man!
No problem 👍
If it plugs up and then dies watch my video called: "Modify a snowblower to never clog and throw 2x as far"
If it just wants to cut out when it starts hitting a heavy load the carb isn't delivering enough fuel to the engine. Does your carb have an adjustable main jet(bolt with center screw located on very bottom of the carb like the one in this video 5:15) or a fixed main jet shown at 5:25?
Hey thanks for the video. I cleaned everything with carb cleaner but my snowblower still won't go. Appears it's not getting any fuel. I order a brand new Chinese carb for cheap. We'll see how that works.
Nice video! Thanks. What type of gloves are you wearing?
Thanks for the video. I now have a running snow blower.
That's great to hear. I'm glad the video helped.
How does gas get into the oil...I have a generator and a snow blower with the same problem...I have a habit at the end of the year to empty the tanks on all my machines and then let them run and stall before I put them away for the season...This year I filled the tanks with gas,did routine maintenance, started them and all was good...Three days later, no gas in the tanks and I could smell fuel mixed with the oil...The problem seemed to clear, but I'm concerned this problem may come back...I'd like to address it now, thanks Bob
Robert Fields The float in the carb sticks and allows fuel to run into the valve or piston area. From there is weeps past the valve stem and oil piston rings into the oil. A good amount will also evaporate.
Hello Ford I got a Problem With my Snowblower Same Engine. I believe it Might be the Choke.. the snow blower will run fine till it warms up about 10-15 min.. Then it dies outs.
I need to wait till it cools off or it wont start... Once it is cold again it will start up fine... Any sugestions on this thanks...
Ignition coil is the main culprit for this situation. Check for spark when it first dies.
I had the same problem. It was the valve clearance. Too tight so when it warmed up there wasn't any clearance. Easy fix.
Generally when the valve clearance is an issue the snowblower will have very low power. It will want to die when you hit any real snow.
Hey, where did you get the spray head that you are using? That looks really handy! I recently shot a loose spray wand into the intake of my car. :-( A nice robust spray head like you use would have eliminated that issue. Love your vids!
Thanks for this. I just might be able to find the carburetor in the spring.
Thanks for watching
I have an old Tecumseh engine from the 1970's. It was on a Sears machine of some type, and its model number is 143 627 012. It has double sprocket centrifugal clutch, and only two hours worth of use. My son and I want to use it for a go kart. Would you know of a replacement carb for this engine more appropriate for our new purpose, or should we try and get all the
hardened varnish out of the original?
thank you
+Myron Piano Usually the hardened varnish will dissolve within minutes with a little carb cleaner and you'll be back up and going. Your Tecumseh model number is HS40-55382C . So it is a 4hp engine which is a little under powered for a go cart but will work with a light go kart. There isn't a replacement carb but all the wearable parts are available. You'll probably also need to tackle points and condensor at some point: th-cam.com/video/HV9MJwsUP_4/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the help. My sense is that the carburetor is rather primitive. It has 399 1H5
on it, and it does not contain the throttle which is located in the tube the carb connects to. Also there is NO adjustable needle valve. I believe the engine was running quite rich; that's why I would like to replace it. Could I use a carb off the internet that works for a HS-40 and leave the original throttle in the wide open position. Also, do you use synthetic oil in a kart engine? I have always used straight 30 for lawn mowers.
As far as primitive a new carb would be identical except have fixed jets vs adjustable. You'll want to retain the governor setup unless you want it to blow up so an oem style carb is a must. There isn't a direct replacement for this carb. If there is not an adjustable needle valve on the bottom of the bowl then someone has changed it out or added a different carb already as Tecumseh didn't start doing this until the 90's. SAE30 is the best for them.
Myron Piano
I need advice on a 9hp Tecumseh/craftsman that is giving me fits. I’ve cleaned it, I’ve completely rebuilt it, I’ve even given it a good, long Ultrasonic bath. But the only thing I’ve corrected is it will now idle steady. I cannot run the snowblower unless I am either full choke or one step from it. If I even try to click in the middle choke position, and especially off choke entirely, the thing just dies right away.
Fuel is fresh, plug is fresh. And like I said, everything except for the carb body is fresh, as well. I have not adjusted throttle screw or idle speed, but that’s about it. Where should I go from here?
Ben Krasner Do you have a bolt with a screw coming out of it on the bottom of the carb for the bowl retainer or just a bolt.
Just the bolt type jet, with the two main holes and a single small hole on the first thread. This feeds to a green plastic main nozzle tube that has two o-rings on it. The bolt/jet is literally the only piece other than the carb body that I have not replaced.
The hole down the center is the main jet. It connects to the two large holes. It is either blocked or has tarnish and needs a wire ran in and out of it. I'm not talking about the tiny hole by the threads.
Right. At this point, I've done all the cleaning I feel I can do on it. The holes are open and clear and I can see light easily through, or spray cleaner easily through. So I'm ordering a new one. I am not the first person to get inside this carb, and I'm starting to wonder if someone enlarged any of these holes by intent or mistake. The two intake holes in this nut do not even appear true and round, which differs from any picture I can find of it. They are ovals - like the shape of a race track. If my supplier has the part in stock, then I'll have it tonight and see if this was the fix.
I have the same machine with the carb with the other jet you show. Also the secondary jet is fixed to the body without a slot for adjustment. After a second clean, it would seem it still does not run well. Any tips for this model? TIA
The fixed idle jet will come out, it just has a little plastic cap on it. Pick it off with a sharp awl or similar and it will expose the screw head.
If the engine is surging, the idle passage/jet is clogged
If the engine requires choke to be on to stay running the main jet/passage is clogged.
Thank you for the tip. I took that jet cover off and that jet seemed ok, but the passageway was blocked (got a little carb cleaner in the eye ugg) Ill put some air to it to see if I can unclog it. Thank you for all your help.Hopefully 4th time apart is a charm.
I have a newer style Carb with the non adjustable Main Jet. Would you clean that any different than an adjustable one in this video?
rogue203 Just make sure all the passages are clean and you'll be good to go. In this video I show the fixed jet cleaning th-cam.com/video/KYj5oH0vNVg/w-d-xo.html
Yup, The main was clogged. When I shot Carb cleaner down from the top nothing came out the 2 holes on the base. Used the copper wire and all good now! Great videos! I subscribed to your channel! Thanks!!
Awesome. Thanks for the sub. -Moe
Where would I get the float needle? I have an 84 toro 421 so it's all older and not sure what is compatible.
You don't need the needle as much as the rubber seat, that seals the needle. You might as well replace the bowl gasket along with the main jet/nut fiber gasket as they're all cheap. amzn.to/3Wo7hKM
You pull the old needle seat by inserting a course sheetrock/ deck. Screw down into the hole and pull it out with a slight twist. You then put the new seat in, with the ridges towards the carb with a blunt tool and or the back side of the needle until it seated.
I have an 11 hp tecumseh. Is there no air filter on it? I cant seem to find it. I just see the choke intake and that is it.
Snowblowers don't have air filters.
Thanks
I got one of those Motors on a home made gocart
How do I figure out which model Tecumseh carb came on my 2004 Ariens 524 snow blower? I do not see a model number listed in any of the manuals? It looks very much like the one you work on in the video with the small drain screw off to the side, but just a plain center bolt without any adjustment. Gas is now dripping out of the small drain screw and motor cuts off after a few minutes of use.
The model number is located on the side of the pull start shroud on a decal. If it is not there it is on the very top of the shroud stamped into the steel.
How many turns back out on the main jet? Thx
Start with 1.5 and you will have to adjust from there.
@@sixtyfiveford You da bomb! Thx
I’m have a problem with my snow blower it starts but doesn’t stay. cLeaned it and chAnged the carburetor
its cold out now and it will not start 2 weeks ago it started will a shot of carb cleaner help ???
same engine
У мене не хочет заводится снегоуборщик murray с двигателем Tecumseh ,на карбюраторе нажимаю на клапан с пружинкой , сливаю из него бензин , после этого он заводится , что нужно сделать что бы работало без сливания
Do you suggest using compressed air after cleaning the Carb with cleaner, or will this do harm rather than good to the carb...
Robert Fields I really see no point in using compressed air. Carb cleaner gives you a visual reference to see how passages are flowing. Compressed air gives you no visual cues. Also gummed up gas can't be dislodged by force(compressed air) it needs to be dissolved. So after you clean it with carb cleaner there is really no point in blowing compressed air through it.