Wish i could get in touch with u got a couple questions on pc5 just boosted my thundercat 1000 atv an had to do a update on the pc5 an the autotune but got my afr back in range now from 22 down to 18 an now it reads but do have some questions on this particular build
some time ago meanwhile but yet, why do you send tables too when you already did send map after accept trims ? I always only do accept trims and then send map.
If you change the power on time to 5min so the bikes warm couldnt u keep ur AFRs instead of deleting them since the auto tune isn't kicking on Intel your bikes basically watmed up
So after several tunes and fine tunes- for a race weekend do you think I should turn my auto tune off so that it will not try and adjust while I’m racing. I’m looking for consistency and predictability. Sometimes I think my auto tune is working against me due to changing weather conditions and the adjustments it’s making causing changes
That's...a good thing if it's making changes due to weather conditions, especially if you want predictability, if you can keep a consistent AFR you'll keep consistent power. Not to mention having it in the right AFR means your motor won't do anything crazy like go super lean
Hello. When you install autotune on the bike, is the O2 sensor replaced by the standard O2 sensor or does it have to be installed in another position in the exhaust? Thank you.
The autotune will try to keep it at changing the idle all the time. I leave it at 0 because the idle at startup is cold, and really, you want it to be 13 at idle when warmed up. It's kind of to each their own. It won't hurt anything
Im also trying to figure out how to get my map switch to work again I had to move it to input 2 because I had to plug my ignition module into input hole 1 and input hole 6 before I connect my auto tune it was working but once I configured it my map switch stopped working I also have no place to plug my quicksilver into because it has to go in input 2 or holes 3 and 4 and in order to do that i have to move the map switch back to input 1 or holes 1 and 2 but then my ignition module won't work because it needs the can bus cable and the white wire in hole 1 and the black wire in holes 4 or 6 any help would be awesome
Wish i could get in touch with u got a couple questions on pc5 just boosted my thundercat 1000 atv an had to do a update on the pc5 an the autotune but got my afr back in range now from 22 down to 18 an now it reads but do have some questions on this particular build
some time ago meanwhile but yet, why do you send tables too when you already did send map after accept trims ? I always only do accept trims and then send map.
If you change the power on time to 5min so the bikes warm couldnt u keep ur AFRs instead of deleting them since the auto tune isn't kicking on Intel your bikes basically watmed up
So after several tunes and fine tunes- for a race weekend do you think I should turn my auto tune off so that it will not try and adjust while I’m racing. I’m looking for consistency and predictability. Sometimes I think my auto tune is working against me due to changing weather conditions and the adjustments it’s making causing changes
That's...a good thing if it's making changes due to weather conditions, especially if you want predictability, if you can keep a consistent AFR you'll keep consistent power.
Not to mention having it in the right AFR means your motor won't do anything crazy like go super lean
Hello.
When you install autotune on the bike, is the O2 sensor replaced by the standard O2 sensor or does it have to be installed in another position in the exhaust?
Thank you.
It should have its own bung in the exhaust
Is it bad to change the default afr which is blank at idle to 13? Dynojet says to leave it alone
The autotune will try to keep it at changing the idle all the time. I leave it at 0 because the idle at startup is cold, and really, you want it to be 13 at idle when warmed up. It's kind of to each their own. It won't hurt anything
This column needs to be cleared when numbers appear in the Trim table to be added to the fuel map.
Im also trying to figure out how to get my map switch to work again I had to move it to input 2 because I had to plug my ignition module into input hole 1 and input hole 6 before I connect my auto tune it was working but once I configured it my map switch stopped working I also have no place to plug my quicksilver into because it has to go in input 2 or holes 3 and 4 and in order to do that i have to move the map switch back to input 1 or holes 1 and 2 but then my ignition module won't work because it needs the can bus cable and the white wire in hole 1 and the black wire in holes 4 or 6 any help would be awesome
My afr always shows 655.35 and not actual afr . Not able to figure out why. Have changed the maps and hit send map send table many times.
Your AFR sensor is probably bad or a ground wire is not grounding out completely.
@@boostedraptor thanks buddy. It was the O2 . Cleaned it well with carb cleaner and its working fine now
You have no idea, this video was helpful in no way whatsoever...
Do you tune banshee ??
300 per hr