Thanks heaps Steve - I subscribed about a year ago after I found your videos were so informative. Followed your advice through on my own Mini and Mokes build (after taking some notes) and must say you are a legend. Their are so many dickheads these days giving bad advice/videos on Mini builds. Thanks again from a Mini tragic in Aus!!!
Reared on these as a apprentice in the 60s, can remember the boss buying a special socket to do the job making it a lot easier .Great tutorial again well done .
Steve, Great video you covered everything, A little tip with the very thin shims is to fit them below a thicker shim above as the thin shims can tear on the locking nut some times as you tighten them down. Also the ball joints will never be able to go through the extreme angles there checked to when getting them set up, I just wanted to pass on to your viewers a couple of extra tips, This has to be one of the best how to videos i have seen beautifully filmed and edited. Cheers Dave
I'd add, just like reversing outer CV's or egging the radiator, when you're in a pinch ball joints can be forced to operate longer. A nipple on the ball end defines ball joint wear, you're right the ball never articulates much in use so wear doesn't effect dead centre thus leaving a raised nipple as the rest of the ball wears. If you can't feel a raised nipple (0.002") then a clean and repack works and in a pinch, grinding the nipple off totally and placing a washer under the cup seat also works for those on a shoe string or needing to get the job done when the parts store is closed. My mini had this (being a student hence broke) I put another 30,000 miles through those joints before replacing them. Totally agree the filming was top quality and the content A1(less the shirt creases)
very serviceable joints, unlike modern cars, had lots of issues on my fiest with ball joints only lasting a few thousand miles, and having to change the lower arm entirely
I remember the same (with my Fiesta), 'throw away' ball joint / lower suspension arm ... likely Ford's designers managed by bean counters at that time, maybe still now.
That is a very good way of checking for the amount of shim thickness, it eliminates all the usual variables, I have seen people trying to set up the swivel with the spring in its seat ! They got it right by luck ! Stay safe! Chris B.
Thank you for a good tutorial, I wish I still had my Mk1 (1965) Mini, would have done this part as I was planning a full restoration. I liked the quaint little 850cc engine, just enough power and economy to get around town. On the Minis engineering, I think the suspension was overdone for such a small car. It has too many parts and this setup would have required some introduction for the technician, especially in the 1960's. In manufacturing, the more parts the more expense and a bigger supply chain, storage etc. If they had only made the front suspension with a McPherson strut and a lower radius arm, things would have been......simpler. The rear, well there are space limitations there. As for the other system they came up with, "Hydra gas", lets not go there, it never caught on. Give us your thoughts on this any Mini mania fans out there.
Rookie mistake Steve, oh not the ball joint process that was sweet stuff, it's your shirt. Those threads came straight out of the packaging, you look like you're a robot that folds in half with those creases, iron it or throw it in the wash pre wearing.
![แขกคนแรกร้านแจ๊ส [ซี - เอมมี่] | iJazzKhunJang](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XP6C9kulFfc/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks heaps Steve - I subscribed about a year ago after I found your videos were so informative. Followed your advice through on my own Mini and Mokes build (after taking some notes) and must say you are a legend. Their are so many dickheads these days giving bad advice/videos on Mini builds. Thanks again from a Mini tragic in Aus!!!
Reared on these as a apprentice in the 60s, can remember the boss buying a special socket to do the job making it a lot easier .Great tutorial again well done .
Thanks for the info
Steve, Great video you covered everything, A little tip with the very thin shims is to fit them below a thicker shim above as the thin shims can tear on the
locking nut some times as you tighten them down. Also the ball joints will never be able to go through the extreme angles there checked to when getting
them set up, I just wanted to pass on to your viewers a couple of extra tips, This has to be one of the best how to videos i have seen beautifully filmed and
edited. Cheers Dave
Good tip Dave ! Thanks for the comments and as always good to hear and see others work ( you are a class by itself, the mini's you build are sublime)
I'd add, just like reversing outer CV's or egging the radiator, when you're in a pinch ball joints can be forced to operate longer. A nipple on the ball end defines ball joint wear, you're right the ball never articulates much in use so wear doesn't effect dead centre thus leaving a raised nipple as the rest of the ball wears. If you can't feel a raised nipple (0.002") then a clean and repack works and in a pinch, grinding the nipple off totally and placing a washer under the cup seat also works for those on a shoe string or needing to get the job done when the parts store is closed. My mini had this (being a student hence broke) I put another 30,000 miles through those joints before replacing them.
Totally agree the filming was top quality and the content A1(less the shirt creases)
Super video. Makes it look so easy so I guess it is quite straightforward. Takes away all the mystery of these jobs!
Glad it was helpful!
Nice technical details. Cheers Steve 👍 it's so interesting work
Glad you enjoyed it
What a great clear video
Ok, I’m now hooked on your videos. Well put together and wonderfully detailed. Thank you
Glad to hear it!
This is one of the best technical guides I've seen in a long time. Excellent work and thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
These are excellent...subscribed. Look forward to seeing what else you have done.
Welcome aboard!
It keeps getting better and better... Thank you sir
Glad to hear it, Thanks for the comments
cant get enough of this channel ,fantastic
Thanks for the comments
An interesting method and good breakdown. Thanks
very serviceable joints, unlike modern cars, had lots of issues on my fiest with ball joints only lasting a few thousand miles, and having to change the lower arm entirely
I remember the same (with my Fiesta), 'throw away' ball joint / lower suspension arm ... likely Ford's designers managed by bean counters at that time, maybe still now.
Thanks for the comments
Very informative. Thank you for sharing
Glad it was helpful!
That is a very good way of checking for the amount of shim thickness, it eliminates all the usual variables, I have seen people trying to set up the swivel with the spring in its seat ! They got it right by luck ! Stay safe! Chris B.
Thanks for the comments Chris
I didn't notice that you said to check the lower ball joint without the spring. I noticed you put it in on the final assembly!
Yes to adjust it without the spring, final install with spring
Thank you for a good tutorial, I wish I still had my Mk1 (1965) Mini, would have done this part as I was planning a full restoration. I liked the quaint little 850cc engine, just enough power and economy to get around town.
On the Minis engineering, I think the suspension was overdone for such a small car. It has too many parts and this setup would have required some introduction for the technician, especially in the 1960's. In manufacturing, the more parts the more expense and a bigger supply chain, storage etc. If they had only made the front suspension with a McPherson strut and a lower radius arm, things would have been......simpler. The rear, well there are space limitations there. As for the other system they came up with, "Hydra gas", lets not go there, it never caught on. Give us your thoughts on this any Mini mania fans out there.
Thanks for the comments and good text.. always nice to read what viewers do
I like the logic behind measuring without the shims. On the bottom, do you measure without the spring in place?
New subscriber here!
Thanks you and wekcome
Was that a standard size socket you used when torque it down? if so thats pretty good :)
Thanks for the comments, Its a 32 I think
What is the socket size of balljoint nut...??
I look mine apart today and realised the top doesnt have a spring, why is that?
Somebody forgot to place it on some time ago
@@D3Sshooter In your video only the bottom has a spring?
Rookie mistake Steve, oh not the ball joint process that was sweet stuff, it's your shirt. Those threads came straight out of the packaging, you look like you're a robot that folds in half with those creases, iron it or throw it in the wash pre wearing.
.