CR10 V3 Review - How Good Is It?

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ค. 2024
  • Transcript: yarkspirifantasyart.com/how-g...
    Chapters:
    0:00 - Intro
    0:31 - Specs
    1:05 - Space Requirements
    1:44 - Hot Bed
    2:17 - Input Screen + Important Notes
    3:02 - Direct Extruder
    4:10 - Nozzle Size Recommendations
    4:42 - Filament Run out
    5:40 - Overall Build
    6:28 - Performance
    7:27 - Conclusion
    Distribution rights to video, graphics, images and audio:
    Yasmeen Gagnon Rajah-Balee @ YarkspiriFantasyArt.com
    Link to trademark:
    www.ic.gc.ca/app/opic-cipo/trd...)
    Video Recording:
    Recorded using Camstudio Open Source Software
    CamStudio Software Information:
    camstudio.org/ liscence agreement camstudio.org/termso
    Digital Software for graphics + Video Editing + Audio Recording:
    Done using the Adobe Creative Suite 5
    Liscene agreement for adobe Musical track:
    www.adobe.com/devnet/soundboot...
    Adobe Creative Suite Software License Agreement: www.adobe.com/products/eulas/p...
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ความคิดเห็น • 173

  • @rsmaster5637
    @rsmaster5637 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    I own the v3 .. ive done a lot of modifications to it to bring it to a point where i am satisfied.. so if you want a machine that you purchase and it just works maybe go with a more high end model.. if you invest a bit of time and money then the printer will get to a level where its a solid machine

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Absolutely! It's the difference between a machine that's a couple of thousands to one that's a couple of hundred.

    • @1337fraggzb00N
      @1337fraggzb00N 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Yarkspiri I want to print with filament that contains bronze to print little statues a few times a month. What printer would you recommend?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@1337fraggzb00N If you're looking at using something which contains actual bronze then you may need a hardened nozzle? You may need to provide a link to what you're looking at using. If you're doing the same model multiple times it might be easier to cast it after having it printed?

    • @1337fraggzb00N
      @1337fraggzb00N 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Yarkspiri I use a Creality CR-10 V2 with a hardened nozzle but there are still some problems. I will try again with another extruder that has direct feed and not a bowden system.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@1337fraggzb00N Could you provide a link to the filament you're trying to use?

  • @moreapurva
    @moreapurva 3 ปีที่แล้ว +8

    thank you so much for this review! Dont know why there aren't many reviews up for this particular model from others. So yeah, this review was pretty helpful

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      It was a pretty good machine so I was also surprised.

    • @dronus
      @dronus 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Cause they get some type of incentive to not talk crap about the product.

  • @Wolverine05
    @Wolverine05 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This was very very well done and thorough

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you, I'm happy you enjoyed it.

  • @MohammedNoureldin
    @MohammedNoureldin 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very nice review! Thanks, Yasmeen! is the printing bed flexible? So can I take the whole out and bend it a bit to get my printed objects out? (in case the contact surface is large, it will be very hard to pull the object out without bending the bed).

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No it isn't. It's a glass build plate however it is designed so that you can remove it so in theory it should be fairly easy to modify.

  • @trevormorred6913
    @trevormorred6913 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Great review, I have a question. I just bought one of these machines and I don’t know how tight to tighten the filament spring. Where the filament goes through the gear.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It depends on the machine. I found that I had to loosen it almost completely, otherwise it caused jamming issues.

  • @JesseDLiv
    @JesseDLiv 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks for the video! I've had a resin printer for about 8 months now and considering getting a decent FDM printer. I need a good sizes build volume, so was considering this. But you mentioned this might not be a good first printer. Are there others in this caliber that you would recommend that have a large print base? Thanks!

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I don't normally recommend a large printer if it's your fist FDM since any issues you encounter will be exasperated with the larger size. Unless your going to print something large a couple of times a month, it normally isn't worth it, especially since you can normally just separate out the pieces. I normally recommend the Ender 3 V2 since it's a great value for the money, but keep in mind that they've tinned some power connections on the motherboard, so you'll want to replace those with ferrules. This becomes especially relevant if you're going to be printing non stop.

  • @robertojofre15
    @robertojofre15 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    great review, thanks a lot, any tips on choosing a cura slicer profile? i know some people suggest adjusting the retraction a bit, any thoughts ?? any help would be nice

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I started with the default settings for the CR10 and tweaked those since it had most of the defaults set correctly. I'd turn off retractions completely or reduced it to a very small amount. Direct drives don't need much retraction, if anything. You can adjust the coasting amount so that you don't have to rely on retractions as much as well. Bed levelling is key. Most failed prints result from a poor bed levelling, so it's always the first thing I like to check. I normally start with printing test columns, which print normally within 10 minutes and tells me whether my temperature settings are correct and whether I have stringing issues. There are multi-layered solutions that work just as well.

    • @robertojofre15
      @robertojofre15 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri youre a live saver, people like you make this community soo great. i was using the cr10s settings and was getting good first prints, should i change it to the cr10 instead?
      i appreciate your time, and hope to see more v3 content in the future.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@robertojofre15 I would, just in case. Sometimes the difference is in just one setting, but it makes all the difference in the world sometimes. I'd screencap your settings to you have them on hand and save them just in case you have to go back.

  • @graham7478
    @graham7478 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I find it impossible to level mine. Round and round and round the four screws but never right. Bed is always higher directly under the screws and huge dip in the middle. It's almost like there is not enough tension on the springs as the the levelling wheels move dramatically during printing, assuming because of the vibration and they are always pretty loose.
    I'm new to printing and curious why it seems just accepted that beds are warped from the manufacturer. Any aother product that wouldn't be acceptable :) The glass bed that vcame with it is definitelt warped and I think the metal one underneath too. Any ideas?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I would contact the supplier if the bed is warped at room temperature. As objects heat up they expand which is why some warping may occur during the bed heating process. If the springs are too loose, add a washer between the spring, although you shouldn't need to loosen it that much at all. In your case it sounds like they sent you a defective bed so contacting them is the best policy. If yours came with BL Touch then changes can be made through the firmware.

  • @michaelisakov1108
    @michaelisakov1108 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    How do u solve warping with this printer. All.printers I've used in the past were 220x220mm and glue sticks worked well with adhesion, but not with the cr-10 v3. Can u send some pointers my way?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      I haven't had any warping issues with the machine so far unless I was printing with TPE. What I tend to do to prevent this, is to have a much higher flow rate on the first layer along with a larger initial layer height. this helps force the material into all of the groves of the print bed. Some of my machine's print beds are pretty warped so for those I print with a fairly large brim and in extreme cases where I need to take up the full print bed I'll even use a raft and sometimes use painter's tape to lift up certain area of the bed.

    • @tomgirl366
      @tomgirl366 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Put lepton tap with devi stick glue

  • @Manosspan1
    @Manosspan1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hello. For that kind of money would you recommend this printer instead of any other creality printer?
    (remove the printing size from the equitation) . Thankx

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      If you didn't need the large build volume then no I wouldn't recommend it. You'd be better off with the Ender 3 V2 instead.

  • @craigturpin1731
    @craigturpin1731 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    2:08 Is that heavy wear on one of the y-axis v-slot wheels?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      No I hadn't adjusted the tension on the wheels yet as there was a little more friction as a result. This problem goes away also after a couple of prints. That particular shot was done after several completed print for a client.

  • @chepo12345678
    @chepo12345678 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Do you have any problems with it now after several months of use? Great video by the way! I appreciate the information

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      Sometimes there's bed adhesion issues, but it's quickly resolved with some glue stick. Other than that it's been a very reliable machine.

    • @chepo12345678
      @chepo12345678 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri that’s good to know! I’ve been searching for the perfect one for a while now and this has been top of the list. Thanks again for the detailed review!

  • @skandranon314
    @skandranon314 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Do you have an Artillery Sidewinder X1 to compare to? Trying to decide between the two.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Unfortunately I don't. I've been buying the machines from my own money I'm afraid. If they send me one then I'll review it though.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Also if I get a large number of requests to review this then I might get it anyways. It will depend on how these videos do in general.

  • @highroller3033
    @highroller3033 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I'm new to printing and want a bigger printer but want ease of use out of the box and little to none assembly, I was looking at the cr 10, ender 3, Lk1, or the adventurer 3. I love the ease of the adventurer3 but the printing footprint is pretty small. Any suggestions?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      You can print larger on a smaller 3d printer so if you like what you saw on a specific machine then it may still be suitable for what you need (you can split the model into parts and join these latter). I'd write down a list of what you actually want to print and see if getting a larger printer is even needed. It's a lot easier to learn on a smaller machine and a lot cheaper. I normally recommend larger machines once a person has used a smaller one first.

    • @highroller3033
      @highroller3033 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri awesome that's a great idea. Thanks for the suggestions!

    • @highroller3033
      @highroller3033 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri what do you think about the hatchbox alpha? I can get one for $200 right now. Would that be a good option

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@highroller3033 I personally haven't tested that one but I'd always check to see if it's an open system and how big of community it is. Delta printers can print very fast however accuracy can sometimes be a problem, and they tend to be very tall. You'll want to make sure you have space for the machine.

  • @rogeliustachyon7528
    @rogeliustachyon7528 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Very nice review Great job!!. I Checked out the rest of the channel... and got the NOOOO. More of this content and delete that other BS lol. Still subbed lol.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Lol. Well the artwork I do is what got me interested so what can I say. Lol. I have separated out the content so now it's more refined. I'm happy you subbed.

    • @rogeliustachyon7528
      @rogeliustachyon7528 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri I bought my 3d printer for tabletop terrain, so I actually think the art pieces are cool. I just just messing with ya and the NOOOOOOOOO!!! :)

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@rogeliustachyon7528 Lol good to hear. I've been meaning to start working on some of my own but being so busy it's been difficult to get the time. I've had to get other's to paint mine for test at least for the time being.

  • @steelwitness
    @steelwitness 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    i cant wait for there to be all metal hot end options for this

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm working on that video currently. I had a couple of delays on that, but it should be ready within a couple more weeks.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      The all metal upgrade video just got uploaded. This upgrade also makes it easier to access the hot end components.

  • @Miguelrodriguez-zk4bf
    @Miguelrodriguez-zk4bf 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi! I just got my Cr-10 V3, but im having stringing issues, do you mind sharing your settings? Thanks and excelent review.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      What type of filament and nozzle size are you using at the moment? Also just keep in mind that the settings change from machine to machine (I have two identical machines which have drastically different settings)

    • @Miguelrodriguez-zk4bf
      @Miguelrodriguez-zk4bf 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri Thanks for replying, I'm using a brand new ender filament and a 0.4 mm nozzle.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@Miguelrodriguez-zk4bf Is it PLA? If it is, I used the default CR10S Pro settings in Cura for my 0.4 nozzle settings. I've since changed the nozzle to 0.8 so I don't currently have updated settings for the 0.4. If you could post a video response with you filming your first couple of layer's speed up that would help me see what the issue is. Most of the time it's the ooze amount setting or temperature.

    • @Miguelrodriguez-zk4bf
      @Miguelrodriguez-zk4bf 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@Yarkspiri sorry, I was just waking up haha yes, it's pla, I'll send you a DM on Instagram, I really appreciate it man, you're a life saver

    • @truantray
      @truantray 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Just lower the temp 5 degrees

  • @MortalLintRoller
    @MortalLintRoller 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I don’t have the V3 but for anyone looking to get V1, be prepared to make some modifications. My printing bed came warped and Creality never acknowledged this, they actually never even contacted me back. My advice would be to get a higher quality printer

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I didn't have any issues on the V3, but I've heard that the V1 and V2 had quite a few issues out of the box. Quality control does seem to be something that they've struggled with.

  • @aha5888
    @aha5888 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Hi, do you think this is worth it vs ender 3 max? I wanna print petg only. Price difference is $100. Can i remove that direct drive thing and will it still work? Or replace with other without direct drive thingy. Newbie here. Thank you.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I've tried the Ender 3 Max and I have to say I prefer this machine over that one, but that's mainly because I prefer the direct drive. If you prefer the bowden tube set up, then the Ender 3 Max would be a better alternative. I highly recommend you upgrade the bowden tube to a Capricorn since it has a higher temperature resistance, however it's better to go with an all metal hot end because of the fumes that could be produced if you print at too high a temperature. ***Also, I recently discovered that pretty much all the Creality machines have tinned wires for some power connections. You'll want to replace those with ferrules as soon as possible.*** Hope this helps.

    • @aha5888
      @aha5888 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Yarkspiri thank you 😊

  • @michaellafebre3951
    @michaellafebre3951 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Is it possible to disable the filament sensor. I don't like it. I just have a small piece of filament in there otherwise it won't start printing.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Just unplug the connector which connects it to the Hub (XE Transfer Interface). Then make sure that the cable is out the way so it doesn't get caught anywhere. I might make a video showing how to change it if there's enough requests.
      Revised: There's a safety feature that seems to be enabled which prevents this method from being used. I have an idea on how to make a modified version which should be more functional but it will take a while to create the video.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Just a quick update. I've narrowed the possibilities to two main one's based on difficulty but will begin working fully on this once the BLT touch video goes up. That video will most likely be released either this or next week.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The video for this fix will be uploaded this week. It's just in the final stages of editing.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The video addressing this issue has been posted. I've updated the description this morning to include the ThingInverse 3d files if you need to print them out.

    • @clancyx2807
      @clancyx2807 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Yes. Easiest is to stick a piece of filament in it. You can just pull it out when you want to use the sensor.

  • @aphyngodiva2551
    @aphyngodiva2551 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    It seems the sensor was "improved" with the V3, does this mean the V2 is actually better? Did the improvement actually make it worse?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes an no. The sensor isn't that great but it is a direct extruder which is an improvement IF you intend to print flexibles. I've posted a mod showing how to 3D print a modified version of the runout sensor so it's an easy fix. I don't have the original V2 model but some mentioned that there were other issues so without a direct comparison it's hard for me to tell you.

  • @Savage_Offroad
    @Savage_Offroad 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Would you suggest this as a first printer? I am looking for something with a direct drive extruder, touchscreen controls, and a large print volume. I don’t have any experience with printing and I want something easy to setup and use. I am also thinking about the CR-10S Pro V2, or the Ender 5 Plus. I really like sticking with creality because I’ve heard such good things about them, but I am open to other brands.
    Thanks

    • @crazylegsmurphy
      @crazylegsmurphy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Did you watch the video?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      The video does go through the pros and cons. For what you're doing do you actually need a large printer?

    • @Savage_Offroad
      @Savage_Offroad 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Yarkspiri Yes, I would like a print bed of at least 300x300x300 because I make large scale aircraft models.

    • @Savage_Offroad
      @Savage_Offroad 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@crazylegsmurphy Yes I did, and I felt that I could make the correct decision on a printer but I wanted a second opinion on someone who is more experienced.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Savage_Offroad Ah I see. It's one of the better large format printer's I've used so far so it get's a solid recommendation by me. If you know you want to use flexibles then it's a solid choice.

  • @ColinDyckes
    @ColinDyckes 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Just bought one of these. I'm getting strange loud noises from the direct feed mechanism when it retracts and starts feeding again. Prints fine, but have you (or anyone else) had this issue?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Turn off retractions. Direct drives need extremely low (almost none existent) retractions or none at all. You can also adjust the coasting settings to reduce the amount of ooze along with your overall printing temperatures. Essentially, the filament is grinding in the extruder, which can cause print failures.

    • @ColinDyckes
      @ColinDyckes 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri Thank you Yasmeen. I'm just fitting a BLTouch so will give that a try later. It's annoying when the settings in the latest 4.8.8 version of their own slicer for the CR-10 V3 obviously has wrong default settings!

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@ColinDyckes Very true. It's one of the things that I've noticed a lot of these companies don't maintain.

  • @aha5888
    @aha5888 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Do you think direct drive causes more stringing if printing petg?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I find that direct drive in general causes less stringing if you make sure to dial in your settings. The direct drive is especially useful for anything that's flexible.

    • @aha5888
      @aha5888 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri thanks again. More power..

  • @509drone2
    @509drone2 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I'm looking for a good printer for tpu and have been considering the cr10 v3

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      It works well for TPU just make sure to really dial in your settings especially if you're using a larger nozzle.

  • @tomgirl366
    @tomgirl366 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Separate motherboard has advantage , that u can build your own enclouser with glass for ABS . But if motherboard is stuck with printer like ender 3 than building enclosure will just suck hot air n get more hot.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      So very true. I kinda wish they designed it so that it would be removable from the base instead. That way you could have the best of both worlds.

  • @ssLaulau
    @ssLaulau 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Can it print out Carbon fiber - Nylon filament in 260degree?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      You'd need to do a modification because the hot end isn't an all metal one therefore toxic fumes will be released from the small piece of bowden tube. You may need to do other modifications as well. I'd double-check to see if the filament you intend to use is safe in your workspace since some tend to release nasty fumes.

  • @lukeglavan
    @lukeglavan 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    2:16 what happen to the second wheel it is trashed

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      I didn't re-align it before doing my tests. I ended up doing it latter on. The stuff rubs right off, so it isn't too bad, but I'm going to try and swap those out with better quality one's soon.

  • @bendirval3612
    @bendirval3612 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I'm surprised they switched to direct drive. The CR10 was kind of the classic Bowden machine. I wonder if there's a good reason for that.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      It's good flexible filaments, but I've used both and each has its pros and cons. I use quite a bit of flexible filaments and the direct drive on a larger machine makes a lot of sense. So for my use case it's good but it'll depend on what your going to use it for.

  • @asifjaved4198
    @asifjaved4198 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hi Yasmeen, I have bought 10 of this machines. Out of these 3 are not working after few prints. The extruder motor just jams. Anyone else having this problem?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      What type of material were you printing with? Have you tried a cold pull yet? I might be able to help troubleshoot.

    • @asifjaved4198
      @asifjaved4198 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri thanks for your concern. I am using PLA. Have tried everything. Feel like the the extruder gear jams against something. When i fiddle with it then it turn without fillament but afterwords same problem

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@asifjaved4198 First Thing to try is to loosen the spring that feeds into the extruder itself. Look closely at the spring when you do so because it doesn't move in the direction that you expect. For my machine, this has to be completely loose in order to function, especially when using flexible filaments. Also check where the filament is entering into the internal guide to the nozzle. Look from the back of the machine, it should enter into a guide (the plastic is black so it may be hard to see) When putting your filament into this it should go straight in. Sometimes, you need to straighten out the filament slightly to get it to work.

    • @doxrocker
      @doxrocker 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri First, thank you for the video. It's been more helpful than anything I've found when trying to install the BL Touch. After installation I began running into this issue. I cleared the tube within the extruder and replaced the nozzle. I even swapped out a fresh spool of filament. Still no luck. If I manually push filament through it comes out and then I noticed the gear in the extruder I spinning the wrong direction, pulling it out instead of feeding it in. Any thoughts on how this happened and can be resolved? FYI - I'm very new to this.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@doxrocker Check the extruder connection it sounds like you might have placed them in reverse. Otherwise the direction can be changed with source code firmware or by reverse it on the motherboard.

  • @CapuletPoeChannel
    @CapuletPoeChannel 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    the flex TPU print was bad... why would this be good for that?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      0.8 nozzle and flex materials generally don't print as nicely as their PLA counterparts. For machines of this size, it doesn't really make sense to use a 0.4 nozzle. It's the main reason why I swapped it out to a 0.8. Doing so can shave off days of printing, which in a production setting makes more sense, however I have noticed a great amount of confusion in this, so I'll be doing more prints with both examples next time.

  • @raystmr
    @raystmr 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    can you print using petg filament?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Not sure about that one since I don't have a place that's well ventilated enough for the fumes. If I set up ventilation then I will most likely start testing the other filaments types.

    • @robertanderson2122
      @robertanderson2122 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Yarkspiri PETG is fine un-vented, it's ABS that you don't want to use directly in your living space. I have the CR-10v2 and really like it. It prints PETG great, and I don't see any reason the CR-10v3 would not.
      In fact I've successfully printed TPU on my CR-10v2. Using the OEM spool holder there was visible filament stretching the spool and extruder. I switched to a spool bearing roller to remove that stretch and achieved acceptable TPU quality (but I have nothing to compare speed or quality to). I later switched from roller set ontop of the the controller box to rollers inside of a drybox with resealable grommets for passing filament. This has been working great for me, but I print mostly PETG.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@robertanderson2122 Awesome. I'm adding PETG to my next Amazon Order then. :) I like some of the mechanical properties that I see.

  • @Souls_p_
    @Souls_p_ 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Which would be better, and in what aspects, CR10 V3 or Sovol SV03?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Since I haven't tested the Sovol SV03 I can't really rate that machine. What I can say is that it's nice to have controls integrated into the frame. What I'd be more concern about is whether there's a proper integration of the thermal runaway protection. I'm doing some tests on a variety of my own machines now to find out.

    • @Souls_p_
      @Souls_p_ 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri Alright, thank you for letting me know.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Souls_p_ sorry that I couldn't be more help. Best of luck.

    • @Souls_p_
      @Souls_p_ 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri It's no problem, I've been researching them a fair bit.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      One of my main machines actually kicked the bucket, so I decided to replace it with that one. Although I'm still working on the review for that machine, I will say that it isn't silent and to replace the Bowden tube that's inside the hot end with a Capricorn one. After intensive printing, it will jam because of heat creep.

  • @pennywisethedancingclown5650
    @pennywisethedancingclown5650 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This vs the cr 10 which ones better

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  ปีที่แล้ว

      Depends on what you're looking for. *The CR10V3* is good for modability because they're a lot of files out there by other makers. The *regular CR10 Smart* isn't very good because it has a lot of issues out of the box. The *CR10 Smart Pro* will work for most, but some people have reported issues with quality control.

  • @erichuff3135
    @erichuff3135 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Does this printer have a auto bed leveler?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Not unless you order the add-on. Mine should be coming so I might post an update on that latter. The add-on depending on where you get it is a BLT touch and you'll need to make a couple of changes to the firmware and settings to get it to work.

    • @Skott62
      @Skott62 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri Hi Yasmeen. I would love to see a review of your auto bed level add-on. I'm considering buying a larger printer and this one is on my list to watch. Thank you.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Ok I'll try to make the review once I get the component. The package seems to be stuck somewhere.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Skott62 I've started working on the video so I'm hopping to have it out within either this week or the next. It's currently being edited as we speak.

    • @Skott62
      @Skott62 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri Great! Looking forward to it.

  • @YK-mw4tt
    @YK-mw4tt 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I heard that it doesn't matter wish creatily you buy you still need to make changes. i just want one that work out of the box my butget is max $400 want should i get ?from the creatily family.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      They will work right out of the box however if you want better performance than you'll want to make changes over time. Some of these changes can be 3D printed with the same machine and don't require all that many modifications. I've created a playlist to go through some for this machine however there's quite a few that you can find online for the other machines as well.

  • @justaguy1522
    @justaguy1522 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Sorry if this sound negative, but there are two things that you show in this review with which I think are not okay. First, some of your Y rollers looked mangled. This is probably because of too much tension on the rollers. One should always check the tension on the rollers after receiving the printer. The second thing I noticed as odd is that you changed the nozzle with one hand. This is just asking for leakages with a V6 style hotend. When changing the nozzle you should hold on to the heatblock with a wrench to make sure you only undo the nozzle and not the rest of the hotend. I believe that you, as the reviewer, have to show proper procedure, because your audience will mostly consist of new members of the community looking for advice.
    Once again, sorry if I sound negative, but I hope can see some value in these comments. I believe it will improve your viewer satisfaction for future video's :)

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      No worries. I adjusted the rollers after I finished filming so those have been fixed and are working much better now.
      As for the second one, that was B-roll, not the actual process. It's wasn't safe for me to film while doing that portion live so it was shot separately. But yes, when I replace the nozzle I normally use vice grips for safety while wearing some protective gloves. This is also the recommendation I make to other's as well.

    • @wayneshephard
      @wayneshephard 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Might that have been why the vase looked so bad?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@wayneshephard 0.8 nozzle. Larger printer's aren't very efficient with a 0.4 standard. It's the reason why most industrial machines use 0.8 or larger. If you do functional parts on a large scale the nozzle size should be the first thing you change.

    • @wayneshephard
      @wayneshephard 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Yarkspiri yes I understand what you're saying about the volume of print material, not that we are talking about an industrial machine here, but even so the imperfections in that vase are not caused by nozzle size, there appears to be significant errors in the print, quite visible as it rotates, it's seemingly overlooked in the review but it's basically a failed print, unless it's just a lighting issue mashing it look bad but it seems to be full of problems

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@wayneshephard I wouldn't call it a failed print however I would like to see what you're trying to compare it to. I have noticed on my other machines, upgrading to such a nozzle sizes does reduce the quality significantly and any issues can become more apparent. Stringing is one of the most common issues that seems to occur and is by far the most difficult to address. Lighting could be an issue since the material was a metallic copper and highly reflective.

  • @divencia
    @divencia 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Very nice voice

  • @jonhuss6783
    @jonhuss6783 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hello, I have a Creality CR-10S Printer that I can't get to print. The z Axis goes up and down when homing but won't When Printing. It just stays on the first layer. Is this a printer problem or am i doing something wrong in Cura ?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      First thing I would try is to switch the SD card and make sure to format is correctly set to FAT32. Use a new card if possible to rule this out since prints stopping is a common issue when there's a bad card. Does the print just stop at the first layer or keep on trying print new layers at the same height? If it keeps on printing then I would check your value for the "Layer Height" and set this to 0.2 for now. Another possibility is that the nozzle is too close to the bed and it's still going up but doesn't have enough room to actually extrude filament and instead it's digging into the build plate. You'll know if this is happening if it's scratching the surface of the build plate. You should be able to move a standard piece of printer paper between the print bed and the nozzle with a small amount of resistance.

  • @Skott62
    @Skott62 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    So its a good printer but not as a very first printer. That sum it up? I would have loved to see a auto bed leveling as standard on this model but I do understand it can be added later as an upgrade. I appreciate Creality upgrading their printer lines but adding just one or two new features is not enough in my opinion but I also understand they are trying to keep costs down.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I will be creating the auto bed leveling video once it comes in. Seems to be stuck in transit somewhere at the moment.

    • @truantray
      @truantray 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Auto bed leveling is a gimmick and not required if you have a flat bed.

    • @Skott62
      @Skott62 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@truantray ABL is not required or a necessity but it sure makes things easier and faster. Its just a nice feature if its a good quality one.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@truantray Like always, It will depend on your use case. I find it useful when I have to change out my nozzle often for different printing needs.

  • @Frogboy71
    @Frogboy71 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    This is my first printer lets see how it goes 🤷🏼‍♂️

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Once you get the hang of the bed levelling, things get a lot easier. :) Best of luck with your printing.

  • @catamaranman333
    @catamaranman333 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Mine has been great....then terrible. Come to find out its NOT an all-metal hotend or extruder. They simply swapped out a problematic plastic idler arm for a metal one and called that an "all metal extruder kit". People like me come along and think theyre getting an all metal hot end or at LEAST an all metal extruder and therye getting neither. Mine wont print reliably above 240C (which is everything I need to print) so its basically junk to me. I have to buiy a whole new printer and it will NOT be anything from Creality.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  2 ปีที่แล้ว

      There's a safety feature which prevents prints over the threashold of 240C. You'll want to check my other mod that shows you how to upgrade to a full metal hotend. If you're printing at those temperatures, also make sure to change to a Capricorn tubing, otherwise you'll be releasing toxic fumes from the Bowden tube. Don't buy a knock off extruder. 3D printing Canada has good prices for a lot of the well-known brands of extruders (e3D has one that's good for the same mod I did). 3dprintingcanada.com/collections/parts-hotends-e3d/products/official-e3d-v6-all-metal-hotend-1-75mm-24v-full-kit-direct-drive

  • @crazylegsmurphy
    @crazylegsmurphy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Hey, Yasmeen. Thanks for the review. I have been struggling making a decision between this CR-10 V3 and the Prusa Mk3. Where I am having issues is that the Prusa seems to have some features that might be helpful (auto level, detect missed steps, etc), but the build volume seems a bit small for the type of printing I would like to do. The CR-10 V3 has the build volume, but seems to lack some of the features the Prusa does.
    Another thing is the ecosystem. There does seem to be a slight advantage with the Prusa as you get the printer, slicer, and filament that are all designed to work together. From what I've seen the support community and the documentation are really good. Creality on the other hand seems to be more in line with what I would expect from Chinese companies. Confusing information, language barriers, risk of getting knock-off parts, no dedicated software etc.
    So, my question for you (and anyone else reading), when you factor in all the variables (community, support, ecosystem, build volume, component quality, price, etc.), what do you think would be a better printer, the MK3 or the CR-10 V3?
    One final question, in terms of print quality. If both printers were working at optimal settings, which printer would straight out print better, more reliable prints?
    Thanks!

    • @crazylegsmurphy
      @crazylegsmurphy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Additional question... I'm looking, but have you done a video on best filament for use in the CR-10 V3?

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      The Prusa machines have a much better track record and their reliability and print quality is well known. If you just want something that just works it's a solid pick if you have the budget and in this case I would recommend ordering the pre-built version. The main question I would ask yourself is whether or not you need the extra build volume. I don't normally recommend the larger printers for those getting their first printer since most people won't use the extra build volume. While they are known for building upgrade kits and accessories I have noticed that other companies are beginning to do so as well. The main advantage is that they do actually update their firmware unlike a lot of the other companies which is less known and this has a significant added value.
      Creality is more of a DIY when it comes to upgrades and maintenance and while they do have a good following and community you will need to learn how to troubleshoot issues. So are you a tinkerer? This will help determine whether or not you want something of this nature.
      As for the filament, just get a good quality filament. As long as you know how to fine tune your settings then you can print almost anything as long as it's quality filament. Learning how to calibrate your machine is an essential asset so it's something you should learn either way. Just keep in mind that certain filaments are sensitive to moisture or release fumes which are toxic so take all of the appropriate precautions.

    • @crazylegsmurphy
      @crazylegsmurphy 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri Thanks for the reply! Much appreciated.
      Build volume for me comes down to what I desire to use the 3D printer for. 80% of what I print will likely be small / medium props, useful items and art. Where I think I would like the larger build volume is when it comes to doing costumes... helmets in particular. I've seen people do perfectly good helmets on the PRUSA, but it does require printing many smaller parts and putting them together. I am sure with a bit of ingenuity I could spit up the prints into larger parts, but all of the models I thought I might want to print, when brought into PrusaSlicer seemed to be just large enough to be annoying.
      The budget isn't really a concern and I'm fine with tinkering, in fact I kinda enjoy it. What I'm not really interested in is not being able to find information because the community is small or because I can't communicate with half of them. But, as you said the community seems to be large enough to not be too out on my own.
      I don't really have the option to get a pre-built Prusa here in Canada. The kits come out to be about $1200 with taxes and shipping. Alternatively, I can get a CR-10 V3, BLevel add-on, and like 5 spools for the same price as the Prusa. Like I said, cost isn't a huge concern, but I will be frustrated if I struggle to print helmets and such (I wish you could throw prusa hardware on the CR-10 build plate / frame. Best of both worlds! :D
      Your reply has given me a lot to consider though. If only the Prusa was a few millimetres larger, this would be a no brainer.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@crazylegsmurphy Well if you don't mind tinkering with the Prusa then you may be able to mod it latter although it just way easier to just get a larger printer. I'd say that if you're going to print 7 helmets a year then the CR10 V3 makes sense because at that point you'll be saving quite a bit of time and hassle.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @jaysonborn If he has the budget and will be able to use both at least 3 to 4 times a week then it would be reasonable depending on the use case. For a production workflow having multiple machines makes sense. Most people won't need to produce that much in a such a short time and their case this would be hard to justify.

  • @truantray
    @truantray 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Any PLA becomes brittle when it gets old. The plasticizers in the polymer are volatile. I would by-pass that filament out sensor, it's only for people who can't do math.
    I bought a CR10 V2 and was lied to by Creality because it does not support the Titan direct extruder, and now they have the V3 and in a few weeks another poorly designed model.

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I did hear that some people had issues with that model but that hasn't been my experience with the V3. I will be posting some highly suggested mods in the future so if you've updated yours some may still be useful.

  • @patriqcnewman275
    @patriqcnewman275 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Ugly print

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      0.8 nozzle = function over beauty. If you want to see what it's capable with a 0.4 nozzle I'll make another video if enough people like your comment.

    • @RotaruCosminLeonard
      @RotaruCosminLeonard 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri, please don't ever show those ugly prints again. try at least to tune it properly so the printed object to be at least usable. I am extremely confused every time I see you presenting them as a good thing. That benchy was horrible...horrible!
      don't even recommend to people the wider nozzles....just don't. Not with those prints.If you still want to do it, at least explain it properly. Consider the layer hight too instead of just increasing the nozle.

    • @RotaruCosminLeonard
      @RotaruCosminLeonard 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      and please clean your nails :D

    • @Yarkspiri
      @Yarkspiri  3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@RotaruCosminLeonard I'll make sure to include more 0.4 prints before the larger nozzle sizes next time. For such a large print volume however it simply isn't the best use of time to keep the 0.4 at least not from a production standpoint. I might compromise and use a 0.6 which tends to be a good in-between. The 0.8 really is great for printing functional parts and mods since it's quick and has better layer adhesion. Pretty much all other mods that I've made for my printers is done with the 0.8 for this reason.

    • @RotaruCosminLeonard
      @RotaruCosminLeonard 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Yarkspiri, Idon't know...what I've seen around here does not look usable :) .You don't have to do anything just because I said, but you might just consider it. I am sure you can print reasonable stuff with 0.8 tho'. Just try to tweak it a bit. And what do you mean by ,, production" what possible thing you can produce with that quality?