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I have solved it, for anyone who can help, the problem was that in the official version of the anycub page, one of the files appears as P-MXV5_4_0812(1).bin, the only thing you have to do is remove that one in parentheses and rename the file as P_MXV5_4_0812.bin and then the printer will recognize it and you will be able to update.

@@patriciogarcia2992 Thank you for posting the solution, it's a great help to others who might come across this in the future.

I'm actually kinda surprised that it isn't more popular because of the support settings. My only grip with it is the fact that it doesn't work offline. It's a software that has a lot of potential.

The hot end assembly has an eccentric, but that's used to tighten the assembly. The tricky part is that you need to hold the nut in place while you tighten it, otherwise it'll just turn. I have pictures in my guide, but the nut on the outside needs to be hold in place, while the nut in between that and the hot end needs to be tightened.

I could see where the confusion could come from. They were demo pieces which I used for demonstration purposes, but it is something which I should have clarified in the video. As for hammering the prints off the plate, it's pretty common depending on where you work.

I used my laptop as a hotspot for my connection, unfortunately, nothing I tried worked. Several others had similar issues. Since the video is quite old now, it's possible that the issue has been fixed.

Do you have a time stamp for the aforementioned connection? It was something I verified on multiple occasions, and while it is possible that I used the different footage, since I had spent several hours connecting and reconnecting to resolve the issue.

There's some custom Gcode that's needed to make sure it retains the information, and it will need to level each time before printing. Here's a link to that other video from another youtuber. th-cam.com/video/bRiRcDY9jG4/w-d-xo.html

I'm happy that the videos helped.

Unfortunately, I tried, but had so many issues that I couldn't even get it working. It's the reason why I ended up doing the USB mod.

I had to mod mine so that I had access to the usb port. Once I had disconnected and rerouted the cable, I was able to connect to my machine with Pronterface. Nice thing about that mod is that it's completely reversible afterward.

I'm happy you liked the info. Happy printing!

Thank you, it's appreciated.

Awesome! I was wondering what that tool was for.

It might actually be easier in some cases.

I'm happy to have helped. Happy printing. :)

Thank you. :)

No problem. I'm happy I was able to help you out. :)

The speed of the video can be changed by clicking on gear on the bottom right hand corner. Some find it too slow while other's find it too fast so this is the best happy medium I could find.

So far it's been the best decision I've made. It's also part of the reason why I'm very happy with my Jupiter.

At the time of release, there wasn't any third part options which had the appropriate screw sizes. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by changing the rest of the screws to smaller one's though, since you could simply remove them so that the remaining four could move freely.

@@Yarkspiri The leveling kit includes 4 M4 screws of approximately 35 mm. For which you must drill the 4 corresponding holes in the plate with a 5 mm drill bit so that they move correctly. You change the rest of the screws with 12mm M4 screws and fix them from below to the bed with washers and nuts, that's all. This is what I did and it works perfectly for me. The other option is to buy the original CR-10 Smart Pro bed and add the leveling kit and that's it.

@@Oldies194 I pretty much did the same thing but skipped the extra screws.

@@Oldies194 Hi there, can you possibly provide a short video showing your setup for reference? Planning to make this mod as im fairly having issues with leveling thank you

That's strange. It didn't notice any option to turn it on or off, either. You can try going to settings/help tab + Factory Settings to reset everything. Otherwise, you may have to uninstall and reinstall it. I would reach out to their technical support first through.

Yes, I was able to successfully connect pronterface. I used it to do diagnostics, although my machine was from over a year ago.

@@Yarkspiri Hello! Thanks again!. So, I understood wifi functionality won't be affected. Just another question: By having this USB port available, would I be able to (using another tool) connect it to Orca Slicer in order to print straight from it?. Which tool do you recommend most? (they recomend platforms such simplyprint). Or do i need to use a Rasp pi??

@@alfredoflorezcadena5197 If you do this mode, you'll lose the Wi-Fi capabilities because that part of the board will be disconnected. However, the benefit with this is that it isn't a permanent change and can be reversed at any time. In theory, you should be able to simply connect to any slicer, however I've only tested it using Pronterface. With the USB connection, you should also be able to connect it to the raspberry pie, but since I haven't tested that, I can't confirm for sure.

Unfortunately, I do not. I traded the machine last year, so I can't take any photos. But it is possible to slow down the video playback, which might help.

@@Yarkspiri I think I got it figured out. But even at .25 speed it isn't obvious. I think I see that the little black collar at the top of the heat sink is missing in your assembly (It's only a frame or two @ 1:41, but it looks like it has been removed). I haven't finished it yet (I only get a few minutes here and there to work on it), but I think that was the biggest hurdle (so far)

@@michaelelandon That's good to know. Thank you posting the solution since it'll definitely help someone else.

I didn't notice if it had such a feature. I'll have to remember to test that out later on.

If you were to replace it, you would need to bypass it somehow and would in most cases involve swapping out the motherboard entirely. Your best bet is to look up open source upgrade kits by a third party. The PRO version of this machine had the source code release a while ago, but they never did it for the regular one, which needed this build plate modification. I hope this helps.

@@Yarkspiri Oh I see. Many thanks!

It was a great quality of life improvement. I'm not sure whey they haven't just started building them similarly, since it's way more functional.

@@Yarkspiri The newer models have a better flip up design, but honestly wish they had done this sooner cause I am now having space constraints and I am going to have to start modifying my older printers to get them to fit :/

@@B143DP It's good to hear that they finally started doing this. The flip up design can still take up a lot more space than necessary. I personally prefer the doors like that of the Jupiter.

Try using a different USB key (preferably a new one that has no other files or folders). Try rebooting the machine, since it can trigger the update as well.

I used the CR-10 V2 or V3 as the base and modified some of the settings. My guide comes with the profiles along with the instructions on how to install and set up if you need more detailed instructions.

Before doing anything, double check to make sure all the connections are correct. Then try reverting to an older version of the firmware after having double-checked to make sure you have the correct firmware. They came out with a couple of different versions of this machine and each had their own version of the motherboard. If you've tried renaming the .bin file + made sure to keep holding the power butting during the installing and still have issues, then you might want to check with the manufacturer. I hope this helps you out.

Might be an interesting project once I've finished studying. I've had to pause my more serious stuff at the moment until I get some of the courses done.

I'm not sure if it's just me but my screen stayed black after turning it on with the dwin file 🙆🏻 I'm not sure if I went wrong somewhere but I hope I didn't

Try renaming the dwin file and repeat the process BUT make sure to KEEP holding the power button down until the update completes. Hope this helps.

Yo;u'll need to replace the screws entirely since they won't be long enough to work with the springs. But yes, you'll only need 4 screws in the end.

Depends on what you're looking to do. Having things offline means additional security. It is more convenient to use wireless or connected features.

@@Yarkspiri I want to use anyone but Creality's slicer or app to send my prints to the printer. Guess I need to get a R.P. to run octoprint or klipper.

You can use the existing internal hardware for most of it. Just make sure to get the proper cable, and you should be able to connect it to Octoprint afterward.

@@Yarkspiri I will give it a shot, no sense in spending anything on a rasberry pi if I don't need one. Thanks for your advise!!!😃

@@OldManJimmy1 Best of luck.

The biggest hurdle I came across was the filament being so brittle. The number of times it cracked was frustrating. Best of luck with your mod, though.

@@Yarkspiri Do you have a filament dryer ? They REALLY help out.

@@chrismoore1932 Not currently. Most of the stuff I've been working with didn't need it all that much, although it would have been good to try with the thicker filament.

@@Yarkspiri It revived some three year old PETG (the 3.00mm that started this for me) and really helped with the stringing and ability to calibrate the printer for the filament. I have the Sunlu S1 and S4 dryers, I'm sure they all work about the same.

@@Yarkspiri Are you using the thin wall stuff to work in the existing connectors or did you get the super thicc ptfe tube? The upgrade kit I got from e3d came with the thicc stuff and I honestly havent ever seen it before myself but it feels like the filament wont burst out of it.

Good to know. I'm assuming that they only have the one's for the more recent machines then.

Parts have recently become available through 3rd parties, so upgrading the machine is now a lot easier. Happy printing.

That's a very unusual error to have show up. If possible, try updating to a previous version of the firmware to see if that fixes the issue. I would also let Creality know about this because it's most likely something with the firmware.

Elegoo has great printers and I like their openness.

I'm happy that you liked it. :)

Will try is for sure, good to know!

That's a good news

I started taking a look at it. So far there are quite a few of improvements. I also find it runs much more smoothly on my secondary computer.

It has become easier to source the replacement parts and now there are adapters available from other manufacturers, which helps a lot.

Thank you for all the support. :)

TH-cam has a slow playback feature (the gear icon on the bottom right-hand side of the video). I also have the transcript and captions on my website for each video to make things more accessible. I watch all my videos at 2x the normal speed, which is why I made an effort to include alternatives for different demographics.

I actually haven't tried that, so it might be possible. With the USB connection, it is also possible to connect the machine directly to your PC. I believe some users may have had success with Octoprint

You can change structure type by going to Hollow Part + Infill + Structure Type.

@@Yarkspiri The "Hollow" tool (it's dialog has the tite "Hollow Part") only has section "parameters" with "wall thickness" and "accuracy" and section "type" with "hollow type"=inside/outside. The entire section "infill" is missing. Other users report the same and try to resort to having supports inside their model. Obviously that isn't as as strong as infill.

They may have released an update then. I'm going to log into my account and see what's changed. Not sure how long it will take, but I'll take a look. @@Suranfox

I double-checked and although the labelling was slightly different, the hollow feature did appear for me. Now that being said I'm very disappointed with the recent update since it no longer reverts to the trial version without internet access and that's something I will be bringing up to the company.

@@Yarkspiri I don't quite understand, since it's about Infill and not just Hollow.

If the machine was ***off*** when it happened, you should be able to just put it back in. It's a different story if it was ***on***. You may have to update the files or replace the SD card if it's corrupted. If you can't get it to work, you'd have two other options. I have a mod video going over how to circumvent the box without damaging anything, or you could reach out to Creality and see if they have the files available.

It can take a while. I held it down for 5 minutes just to be sure. If you have a partial logo, then the firmware didn't finish updating. You'll need to rename the .bin file and try again. Make sure to also update the screen and that you have the correct firmware for that specific motherboard. There were a couple of different versions of this machine and each had a separate firmware. I opened mine up and took a picture of it, so I would have it as a reference afterward. Some users had issues with a corrupted SD card, so I keep of extras just in case.

I created a custom profile from the original CR10 one. "Settings" + "Printer" + "Add a Printer" + "Add a non-networked printer" + "Creality 3D" +"Creality CR-10". From there, I modified the settings to fix the start Gcode for the leveling.

Great. I ordered your 40 page write up. I’m hoping it has all that information in there. If it doesn’t, is there another place to find it?

It should have everything you need in it. Page 9 if you ordered the PRO PDF guide. You also have the custom start Gcode command that has helped a lot of people. @@ryanvalle8081

When using custom, did you add values to the printerhead settings?

No, I Kept those to the default values.@@ryanvalle8081