There's a connector on top of the CR Touch and the other end goes into the connection hub that's attached to the X gantry. It's near where the Bowden tube motor is attached.
Kinda late to the party, but I'm trying to do this upgrade and I am really unclear as to the assembly of the hotend with the additional parts. Do you have and pictures or drawings that show a little more detail?
Unfortunately, I do not. I traded the machine last year, so I can't take any photos. But it is possible to slow down the video playback, which might help.
@@Yarkspiri I think I got it figured out. But even at .25 speed it isn't obvious. I think I see that the little black collar at the top of the heat sink is missing in your assembly (It's only a frame or two @ 1:41, but it looks like it has been removed). I haven't finished it yet (I only get a few minutes here and there to work on it), but I think that was the biggest hurdle (so far)
The zip tie is to keep the Bowden tube coupler engaged. Although the V6 can swivel, it doesn't because of the thermistor and cartridge wiring helps hold it in place. You do need to be careful when changing the hot end afterwards.
After experiencing jams and filament leaking out of the top of the heatbreak within 10 prints of owning this printer, I'm seriously considering trying another hot end. How has this upgrade been working for you half a year later?
It's worked well for me, although I have to say that the leak in your case sounds like the heat break or the nozzle wasn't properly installed for you. I would also replace the inner tubing with a Capricorn one, since it could also be your issues if it wasn't cut the correct length. Just make sure to clean everything out before you put in the new one. The all mental hot end will have a small amount of Bowden tube within the heatsink so replace that with a Capricorn.
@@Yarkspiri That might have been the case, I removed it once to clean a jam and screwed it back on cold. Btw, I've also been looking into the CR Touch. Is your mainboard version 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 like the listing recommends? I opened up mine and it said 2.5.2. Just wanna be sure before I buy one. Creality support on Amazon has been very helpful but they said none of the CR10V3s ship with 4.2.2/7 boards, so I don't know what to believe.
@@B-U-N-N-I I was an early adopter of this machine, so the board that I have would most likely be different from the one currently being sold on Amazon. At the time of purchasing it, it was only available directly through China and wasn't even listed on their main website at the time. I had to go through a third party vendor in order to get my hands on it. They've since rectified those issues and made it a lot easier to purchase through Amazon and their own website.
At the start of this video @ 0:27 you show that the cr-10 v3 uses the same bracket as the Ender-3 max, however later on you install it with the other L shaped bracket @ 3:12. Why is this? I am wanting to install a CR touch onto my CR10-v3 however am unsure of what else I will need to do to make it work, software wise.
It's the same one as the Ender 3 max. Sorry about the confusion, I used the wrong video clip. All three mounts come with the CR Touch so as long as you buy the one from Creality you should be fine. If you're compiling your own firmware, then you'll want to download Arduino, but If you are using the preconfigured one, you can use the Creality Slicer that came with the printer. In order to upload with Arduino, you MUST have done at least one firmware update using the Creality software. I go through some of those specifics within this video. th-cam.com/video/f2gRniPOtN8/w-d-xo.html The transcript is on the main website.
not sure if youll see my comment but worth a shot. how do i know my CR10 is compabitable with this new CR Touch? Ive had my CR10 for a few years now so im sure its an older model but not sure what to look for or how to get it to work on mines. any help would be awesome thanks.
I bought one of the very first models to come out, so as far as I know it should work on all of them since it was designed to be forwards compatible. What you can do is check the pins on your motherboard and double check that the wiring is also the same.
Hey, is there anychance you could send link to the adapter you made if you put it on thingiverse 🙏🙏 thanks heaps. EDIT** Found it but how do you stick sides together? Just glue or something
I have another video that goes through the process in more detail here. th-cam.com/video/f2gRniPOtN8/w-d-xo.html The important part is that there's an area in the connection hub for this connector.
"used my SLA printer to print with engineering materials" - can you be more specific? What resin did you use to handle the 300º+ temps of the all metal hotend?
Since the parts don't make direct contact with the heater block, the material doesn't need to be that resistant to high temperatures. I used an ABS like resin material which worked out fine in my case, however if you only have an FDM printer you can print with PETG first then upgrade to ABS or an equivalent afterwards.
Creality claims that the CR Touch does not work with the motherboard (2.5.2) of the V3. Did you need to swap any wire positions to get it to work, or have you installed a different motherboard?
I didn't need to change anything on mine. However, I did flash my own modified firmware using the source files that they provided. I've provided the same firmware I used on the thinginverse page.
@@Yarkspiri I tried installing the non bootloader .hex file with Cura since I am plugged into the micro usb port. I dont have any of those menu options and when I try t auto home my extruder crashes into the bed and the CR touch is not deployed. did the firmware not take?
@@cantgo2fast The machine first comes without a bootloader, and that sounds like the issues you might be having at the moment. So if this is your first time changing the firmware, you'll have to use their software to do the initial installation. I have some important notes which I included in my BLTouch review, so I'd recommend taking a look at that video or transcript. th-cam.com/video/f2gRniPOtN8/w-d-xo.html
Odd request. But I just purchased a real v6 off of their site. However I need to completely wire a new heater cartridge into my cr10 v3. I would appreciate any help.
The heater cartridge connects to the connection hub on the X gantry. It's easier to rewire the connection by using the old wire and this www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07RFRP1NB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 since it'll be easier to change in the future. This method doesn't require any soldering, which is nice.
@@Yarkspiri I don’t suppose you have any documentation, or have a video planned for this process? Do you know of any docs or videos detailing all the steps of getting a stock cr10 v3 to this point, including all parts with nothing glossed over? For people with no electronics experience, trying to piece together steps is near impossible. At this point, I’ll probably drop the cr10 completely and go with an ender wherein there are drop in replacements for all metal hot ends, but I am still trying to muscle through it currently.
@@glenhinkle I am slowly starting to make PDF files available on my website, but it'll be awhile since I'm getting ready for a show and I prefer to take my time with it. This machine is next in line to create an instructional PDF, but the diagrams are normally what take the longest to put together. If you could list some things that you'd like to see in the PDF then this will make it easier for me make something that is more complete. I do currently have the transcript on the main website, which is a lot easier to follow for people just starting out. ***The Ender 3 V2 instructional PDF is currently available, BUT glosses over the upgrades for the machine for now. It does have a lot of basic information that new users would need along with explanations***
@@Yarkspiri Thanks for the response, and the willingness to share your exhaustive knowledge. I'd say the most useful thing would be having visuals from all angles showing how it all fits together. For example, when you're screwing in the fan to your printed part, you're using a nut that didn't come from the stock printer. It took a while for me to come to that conclusion without a clear shot of what was going on. Seeing how the parts go together in relation to the surrounding shots, with at least a second duration so that it can be reasonably paused (if in video format) would help immensely. That, and understanding how the electronics connect, how/if you're handling voltage changes, and whether you're soldering or connecting via some other method would fill in the gaps for all of us n00bs.
Hey Yasmeen. Creality documentation states the crtouch is only supported on 32 bit mainboards. I'm going to print that end you made and I'll buy something off you. I have access to any plastic I want at the makerspace near me. What did you use if you don't mind me asking. Sorry. I RTFM you generously created. Thank you very much
I printed with an ABS like resin for the final version with my SLA Printer. Any ABS material will work well, but you can work up to that if you're printing on the machine you currently have.
Not currently. But I used the source code which was provided by Creality as the base firmware, and they had two versions. One with and one without the BL Touch. I've recently checked their website, but it seems to have been removed. The closest I found was from this link. github.com/devjj/cr-10-v3-marlin-config. Unfortunately, I got rid of my machine recently, so I won't be able to do a test.
@@Yarkspiri of course but I just mean there isn’t a difference between the bl and cr reach wise? I shouldn’t need to add a spacer or anything? I may eventually convert this machine to a high flow high speed set up though. I’m having some slight regrets on buying this model over some of the other options available.
@@badgersnakeproductions In theory it should be ok, however sometimes the attachment can move every so slightly causing a change in the height. ***I'm looking into doing a review of the CR10 Smart Pro***, but that will depend on what you guys end up choosing. I have a pole running in the community tab of my channel.
@@Yarkspiri Last night I attempted to upload the firmware I used the hex with mega in the name. I was really hoping it would make the interface a little more user friendly. I can’t seem to figure out the z offset and now it says cr10 v2 on the info screen. I removed the z limit switch but now I just can’t seem to get the z offset set up correctly. The process was a lot easier with my ender three V2.
@@badgersnakeproductions There's a glitch with it which makes it a pain to set up. I had to slowly incrementally set until it was the correct height. Some users had success in resetting the Z offset, so I'd try that first. But ya, it was a real pain to set up at first, but I only had to do it the one time at least.
Why didn't you upload the CR10 v3 + E3D v6 + CR touch firmware you made to github? I don't understand how you edited the firmware and I don't have the ability to do so. Would be a great help if you could just share the same unofficial version you made.
@@Yarkspiri lmao thanks. I literally taught myself how to do it and then realized you had uploaded it to thinginverse. Sorry, I’m a bit retarded. At least I know how to do it now.
yes I go the message ...and one yes i used a new SD card (one that didn't come with the machine) No the printer didn't reboot it just went into the home screen on the regular stock software i used the creality software with the other mother board and uploaded the hexfile and now that board wont take any updates from any software.. so im really scared to try it with this one.. and yes i am able to nav through the menus... and no the brain isn't hooked up to the printer because of the different thermistor that is on it from the E3D hotend so didn't think it was a good idea to try and pre heat it to print anything
The new motherboard didn't update then, since it requires the Creality software to do so for the first time at least. ***BUT*** there is a known issue that some BLTouches aren't wired the same way and can brick a motherboard. This issue is known to be present on some of the one's that Creality sells themselves. This may not be the case with the CRTouch however, as long as you purchase it from them directly.*** It is possible that because of the updated firmware (on the original motherboard) it requires updates that are done with hex files through an SD card OR through Arduino. You'll know if this is the case if you can update the motherboard via Arduino itself. ***Unless the motherboard is connected to a heated bed and a hot end, you will not be able to test their functionality. This is due to the "Thermal Runaway Protection" which is a very important safety feature to always have on at all times. This safety feature prevent the machine from running unless these two are properly connected and receiving signals, so your old motherboard might be fine but requires the connection in order to be properly tested.*** As long as you got the same E3D hot end as in the video, the thermistor settings should also be set correctly. ***But it needs to be a genuine E3D hot end***
@@Yarkspiri Well like I mentioned before, my brain of the printer is not plugged into the printer itself ... and I wont plug it in until I know I have the right firmware installed with the right settings for the thermistor... my problem is I cant get the motherboard to take the firmware .... and its not doing it from just putting it on the SD card and my other motherboard stopped connecting to pc when I tried updating with the hexfile Using the creality software...so if my only other option is pushing the update through with a aurdrino .... well I cant do that because I don't have the hardware to do that ... SOOO I guess I'm down till I can get ahold of one...and I have updated the board I have in there now, through creality slicer with the latest firmware from creality... unfortunately that does not have the change to the Thermistor or temp for the E3D hot end...(and yes it is a actual E3D V6 hot end kit)... Thank you very much for your time and input... If you can think of any other way of pushing that hexfile update through without using a aurdrino please let me know... other then that I'm down till I can get the hardware for it.
@@chriscole4398 You can normally connect to the Arduino software via the Ethernet B port. ***Having any other software opened will prevent the connection to occur. So please make sure that you close Pronterface, Cura, Xloader, Prusa slicer or anything else. If you're not sure about what type of port it's connected to, check the device manager instead. E3D''s website has the information on the thermistor type. Please feel free to check it for yourself to ensure the correct compatibility. As I said before your printer will not start unless the hot end and hot bed is connected. So your old motherboard probably works, but until it's tested you'll never know. Sorry, but that's the best I can do considering I've just finished an 11-hour shift.
Hello its me again..... quick question .... i got your firmware installed .... and when i turn on the printer it does not seem to see the thermister...any idea ?? on the display the thermister reads 0 and it should read atleast close to room temp...without it heating up...and yes it is a actual E3D hot end kit with the number 5 thermistor...Soo any ideas? when i go to preheat the nozzel it freezes the printer ...and asked me to reset...
@@MnstrKhaos There's a certain distance. If you look closely, the actual E3d version doesn't actually touch the nozzle at all, but instead it touches the steel throat. However, there is still some minor heat creep, so I'd recommend using the Capricorn just in case.
@@Yarkspiri so if im printing exclusively PETG and ABS 24/7 i will still need to change the ptfe from time to time >.< really hope they make a real all metal soon, either them or micro swiss, do you think replacing the PTFE for a solid Titanium 2 part would work ? basically replacing the PTFE tube with a metal that's a really bad conductor of heat
@@MnstrKhaos Depends on the temperatures you're using. But generally the Capricorn is pretty reliable, and I've only ever had to change it once so far.
@@Yarkspiri TY for reply 🙂I already has one ready next to the printer. Dont see why i should touch the firmware though. (Beside it will get a new MB & ill try to get it to run clipper on it.
@@ChipMIK Well, you could try to print past the temperature limit on the machine, but it's there as a safety measure. So unless you're printing past the 140 mark, you should be good. The firmware modification is if you're going to reach higher than 140 temperatures. I'd also recommend changing out the Bowden tube with a Capricorn one, since it can release toxic fumes at higher temperatures and heat creep is an issue with that specific extruder.
Hello Yasmeen
I just got the cr10 v3 I was wondering where on the mob you plugged in the 5pin connector for the crtouch?
There's a connector on top of the CR Touch and the other end goes into the connection hub that's attached to the X gantry. It's near where the Bowden tube motor is attached.
@@Yarkspiri Thank you ! :)
No problem. Best of luck.
Kinda late to the party, but I'm trying to do this upgrade and I am really unclear as to the assembly of the hotend with the additional parts. Do you have and pictures or drawings that show a little more detail?
Unfortunately, I do not. I traded the machine last year, so I can't take any photos. But it is possible to slow down the video playback, which might help.
@@Yarkspiri I think I got it figured out. But even at .25 speed it isn't obvious. I think I see that the little black collar at the top of the heat sink is missing in your assembly (It's only a frame or two @ 1:41, but it looks like it has been removed). I haven't finished it yet (I only get a few minutes here and there to work on it), but I think that was the biggest hurdle (so far)
@@michaelelandon That's good to know. Thank you posting the solution since it'll definitely help someone else.
Thanks for the hard work! I do have an issue with the v6 swiveling inside the adapter though. Is this something you dealt with?
you mentioned a zip tie but i do not see that in the video.
The zip tie is to keep the Bowden tube coupler engaged. Although the V6 can swivel, it doesn't because of the thermistor and cartridge wiring helps hold it in place. You do need to be careful when changing the hot end afterwards.
After experiencing jams and filament leaking out of the top of the heatbreak within 10 prints of owning this printer, I'm seriously considering trying another hot end. How has this upgrade been working for you half a year later?
It's worked well for me, although I have to say that the leak in your case sounds like the heat break or the nozzle wasn't properly installed for you. I would also replace the inner tubing with a Capricorn one, since it could also be your issues if it wasn't cut the correct length. Just make sure to clean everything out before you put in the new one. The all mental hot end will have a small amount of Bowden tube within the heatsink so replace that with a Capricorn.
@@Yarkspiri That might have been the case, I removed it once to clean a jam and screwed it back on cold.
Btw, I've also been looking into the CR Touch. Is your mainboard version 4.2.2 or 4.2.7 like the listing recommends? I opened up mine and it said 2.5.2. Just wanna be sure before I buy one. Creality support on Amazon has been very helpful but they said none of the CR10V3s ship with 4.2.2/7 boards, so I don't know what to believe.
@@B-U-N-N-I I was an early adopter of this machine, so the board that I have would most likely be different from the one currently being sold on Amazon. At the time of purchasing it, it was only available directly through China and wasn't even listed on their main website at the time. I had to go through a third party vendor in order to get my hands on it. They've since rectified those issues and made it a lot easier to purchase through Amazon and their own website.
At the start of this video @ 0:27 you show that the cr-10 v3 uses the same bracket as the Ender-3 max, however later on you install it with the other L shaped bracket @ 3:12. Why is this? I am wanting to install a CR touch onto my CR10-v3 however am unsure of what else I will need to do to make it work, software wise.
It's the same one as the Ender 3 max. Sorry about the confusion, I used the wrong video clip. All three mounts come with the CR Touch so as long as you buy the one from Creality you should be fine. If you're compiling your own firmware, then you'll want to download Arduino, but If you are using the preconfigured one, you can use the Creality Slicer that came with the printer. In order to upload with Arduino, you MUST have done at least one firmware update using the Creality software. I go through some of those specifics within this video. th-cam.com/video/f2gRniPOtN8/w-d-xo.html The transcript is on the main website.
Thought about doing this last week. I'm tired of taking apart the Titan direct drive. I don't think it was right from the beginning.
Agreed. This one is much faster to disassemble if an issue arises.
You might want to use a capricorn tube for the inner tube. There does seem to be heat creep.
not sure if youll see my comment but worth a shot. how do i know my CR10 is compabitable with this new CR Touch? Ive had my CR10 for a few years now so im sure its an older model but not sure what to look for or how to get it to work on mines. any help would be awesome thanks.
I bought one of the very first models to come out, so as far as I know it should work on all of them since it was designed to be forwards compatible. What you can do is check the pins on your motherboard and double check that the wiring is also the same.
Hey, is there anychance you could send link to the adapter you made if you put it on thingiverse 🙏🙏 thanks heaps. EDIT** Found it but how do you stick sides together? Just glue or something
A zip tie. That way it's easier to remove and put back together.
@@Yarkspiri makes sense haha thanks heaps Yasmeen! Done a great job 🤙
where did you plug in the crtouch? z endstop or bltouch port?
I have another video that goes through the process in more detail here. th-cam.com/video/f2gRniPOtN8/w-d-xo.html The important part is that there's an area in the connection hub for this connector.
@@Yarkspiri Thanks!
may i ask where you found the cable strain support that you have on your motor? thanks
Yes. I made another video about that mod, and you can find it at this link. th-cam.com/video/NcV-a8te-l4/w-d-xo.html
"used my SLA printer to print with engineering materials" - can you be more specific? What resin did you use to handle the 300º+ temps of the all metal hotend?
Since the parts don't make direct contact with the heater block, the material doesn't need to be that resistant to high temperatures. I used an ABS like resin material which worked out fine in my case, however if you only have an FDM printer you can print with PETG first then upgrade to ABS or an equivalent afterwards.
@@Yarkspiri Could you please link to the resin you used?
@@jaychapman6448 I use the Fast ABS like resins siraya.tech/collections/canada
Creality claims that the CR Touch does not work with the motherboard (2.5.2) of the V3. Did you need to swap any wire positions to get it to work, or have you installed a different motherboard?
I didn't need to change anything on mine. However, I did flash my own modified firmware using the source files that they provided. I've provided the same firmware I used on the thinginverse page.
@@Yarkspiri I tried installing the non bootloader .hex file with Cura since I am plugged into the micro usb port. I dont have any of those menu options and when I try t auto home my extruder crashes into the bed and the CR touch is not deployed. did the firmware not take?
@@cantgo2fast The machine first comes without a bootloader, and that sounds like the issues you might be having at the moment. So if this is your first time changing the firmware, you'll have to use their software to do the initial installation. I have some important notes which I included in my BLTouch review, so I'd recommend taking a look at that video or transcript. th-cam.com/video/f2gRniPOtN8/w-d-xo.html
Odd request. But I just purchased a real v6 off of their site. However I need to completely wire a new heater cartridge into my cr10 v3. I would appreciate any help.
The heater cartridge connects to the connection hub on the X gantry. It's easier to rewire the connection by using the old wire and this www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07RFRP1NB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 since it'll be easier to change in the future. This method doesn't require any soldering, which is nice.
@@Yarkspiri I don’t suppose you have any documentation, or have a video planned for this process? Do you know of any docs or videos detailing all the steps of getting a stock cr10 v3 to this point, including all parts with nothing glossed over? For people with no electronics experience, trying to piece together steps is near impossible.
At this point, I’ll probably drop the cr10 completely and go with an ender wherein there are drop in replacements for all metal hot ends, but I am still trying to muscle through it currently.
@@glenhinkle I am slowly starting to make PDF files available on my website, but it'll be awhile since I'm getting ready for a show and I prefer to take my time with it. This machine is next in line to create an instructional PDF, but the diagrams are normally what take the longest to put together. If you could list some things that you'd like to see in the PDF then this will make it easier for me make something that is more complete. I do currently have the transcript on the main website, which is a lot easier to follow for people just starting out. ***The Ender 3 V2 instructional PDF is currently available, BUT glosses over the upgrades for the machine for now. It does have a lot of basic information that new users would need along with explanations***
@@Yarkspiri Thanks for the response, and the willingness to share your exhaustive knowledge. I'd say the most useful thing would be having visuals from all angles showing how it all fits together. For example, when you're screwing in the fan to your printed part, you're using a nut that didn't come from the stock printer. It took a while for me to come to that conclusion without a clear shot of what was going on.
Seeing how the parts go together in relation to the surrounding shots, with at least a second duration so that it can be reasonably paused (if in video format) would help immensely. That, and understanding how the electronics connect, how/if you're handling voltage changes, and whether you're soldering or connecting via some other method would fill in the gaps for all of us n00bs.
Hey Yasmeen. Creality documentation states the crtouch is only supported on 32 bit mainboards. I'm going to print that end you made and I'll buy something off you. I have access to any plastic I want at the makerspace near me. What did you use if you don't mind me asking. Sorry. I RTFM you generously created. Thank you very much
I printed with an ABS like resin for the final version with my SLA Printer. Any ABS material will work well, but you can work up to that if you're printing on the machine you currently have.
do you have the same firmware but without bl touch?
Not currently. But I used the source code which was provided by Creality as the base firmware, and they had two versions. One with and one without the BL Touch. I've recently checked their website, but it seems to have been removed. The closest I found was from this link. github.com/devjj/cr-10-v3-marlin-config. Unfortunately, I got rid of my machine recently, so I won't be able to do a test.
Nice video, thanks. Im impressed on how you designed in blender instead of a CAD program with acurracy, did you use any addon for that in Blender?
Nope. I create stand in shapes to the correct dimensions, however there is a plugin to make things easier, but I have yet to start using it.
where is this rumor of blender being inaccurate coming from lol
is it possible to make use of a bl touch or make a version that uses the bl touch?
If you have a BL Touch it should work fine since it uses the same holes to attach the fans.
Hello Im the guy who has been bugging ya about the uploading firmware on the CR-10 V3 did you get my last post over thingyverse?
I just got it. Seems to have taken a while to show up this time.
Can I just flash your firmware onto my machine and install the cr touch on the provide bracket? Or is the height gonna be wrong?
You normally need to adjust the height for the Z offset.
@@Yarkspiri of course but I just mean there isn’t a difference between the bl and cr reach wise? I shouldn’t need to add a spacer or anything? I may eventually convert this machine to a high flow high speed set up though. I’m having some slight regrets on buying this model over some of the other options available.
@@badgersnakeproductions In theory it should be ok, however sometimes the attachment can move every so slightly causing a change in the height. ***I'm looking into doing a review of the CR10 Smart Pro***, but that will depend on what you guys end up choosing. I have a pole running in the community tab of my channel.
@@Yarkspiri Last night I attempted to upload the firmware I used the hex with mega in the name. I was really hoping it would make the interface a little more user friendly. I can’t seem to figure out the z offset and now it says cr10 v2 on the info screen. I removed the z limit switch but now I just can’t seem to get the z offset set up correctly. The process was a lot easier with my ender three V2.
@@badgersnakeproductions There's a glitch with it which makes it a pain to set up. I had to slowly incrementally set until it was the correct height. Some users had success in resetting the Z offset, so I'd try that first. But ya, it was a real pain to set up at first, but I only had to do it the one time at least.
Why didn't you upload the CR10 v3 + E3D v6 + CR touch firmware you made to github? I don't understand how you edited the firmware and I don't have the ability to do so. Would be a great help if you could just share the same unofficial version you made.
They're all on Thinginverse already. The link is in the description below and is available for free.
@@Yarkspiri lmao thanks. I literally taught myself how to do it and then realized you had uploaded it to thinginverse. Sorry, I’m a bit retarded. At least I know how to do it now.
@@maximdrake No problem. I'm happy that it worked out for you.
yes I go the message ...and one yes i used a new SD card (one that didn't come with the machine)
No the printer didn't reboot it just went into the home screen on the regular stock software
i used the creality software with the other mother board and uploaded the hexfile and now that board wont take any updates from any software.. so im really scared to try it with this one..
and yes i am able to nav through the menus...
and no the brain isn't hooked up to the printer because of the different thermistor that is on it from the E3D hotend so didn't think it was a good idea to try and pre heat it to print anything
The new motherboard didn't update then, since it requires the Creality software to do so for the first time at least.
***BUT*** there is a known issue that some BLTouches aren't wired the same way and can brick a motherboard. This issue is known to be present on some of the one's that Creality sells themselves. This may not be the case with the CRTouch however, as long as you purchase it from them directly.***
It is possible that because of the updated firmware (on the original motherboard) it requires updates that are done with hex files through an SD card OR through Arduino. You'll know if this is the case if you can update the motherboard via Arduino itself.
***Unless the motherboard is connected to a heated bed and a hot end, you will not be able to test their functionality. This is due to the "Thermal Runaway Protection" which is a very important safety feature to always have on at all times. This safety feature prevent the machine from running unless these two are properly connected and receiving signals, so your old motherboard might be fine but requires the connection in order to be properly tested.***
As long as you got the same E3D hot end as in the video, the thermistor settings should also be set correctly. ***But it needs to be a genuine E3D hot end***
@@Yarkspiri Well like I mentioned before, my brain of the printer is not plugged into the printer itself ... and I wont plug it in until I know I have the right firmware installed with the right settings for the thermistor... my problem is I cant get the motherboard to take the firmware .... and its not doing it from just putting it on the SD card and my other motherboard stopped connecting to pc when I tried updating with the hexfile Using the creality software...so if my only other option is pushing the update through with a aurdrino .... well I cant do that because I don't have the hardware to do that ... SOOO I guess I'm down till I can get ahold of one...and I have updated the board I have in there now, through creality slicer with the latest firmware from creality... unfortunately that does not have the change to the Thermistor or temp for the E3D hot end...(and yes it is a actual E3D V6 hot end kit)...
Thank you very much for your time and input... If you can think of any other way of pushing that hexfile update through without using a aurdrino please let me know... other then that I'm down till I can get the hardware for it.
@@chriscole4398 You can normally connect to the Arduino software via the Ethernet B port. ***Having any other software opened will prevent the connection to occur. So please make sure that you close Pronterface, Cura, Xloader, Prusa slicer or anything else. If you're not sure about what type of port it's connected to, check the device manager instead. E3D''s website has the information on the thermistor type. Please feel free to check it for yourself to ensure the correct compatibility. As I said before your printer will not start unless the hot end and hot bed is connected. So your old motherboard probably works, but until it's tested you'll never know. Sorry, but that's the best I can do considering I've just finished an 11-hour shift.
@@Yarkspiri no you are fine ... i thank u very much for taking the time to help me ...
Hello its me again..... quick question .... i got your firmware installed .... and when i turn on the printer it does not seem to see the thermister...any idea ?? on the display the thermister reads 0 and it should read atleast close to room temp...without it heating up...and yes it is a actual E3D hot end kit with the number 5 thermistor...Soo any ideas? when i go to preheat the nozzel it freezes the printer ...and asked me to reset...
is it all metal with a boden tube inside?
Yes. Make sure to replace the bowden tube with a capricorn though.
@@Yarkspiri how can it be all metal if the PTFE tubing is touching the nozzle ? if you have to replace the PTFE this is not an all metal hotend :c
@@MnstrKhaos There's a certain distance. If you look closely, the actual E3d version doesn't actually touch the nozzle at all, but instead it touches the steel throat. However, there is still some minor heat creep, so I'd recommend using the Capricorn just in case.
@@Yarkspiri so if im printing exclusively PETG and ABS 24/7 i will still need to change the ptfe from time to time >.< really hope they make a real all metal soon, either them or micro swiss, do you think replacing the PTFE for a solid Titanium 2 part would work ? basically replacing the PTFE tube with a metal that's a really bad conductor of heat
@@MnstrKhaos Depends on the temperatures you're using. But generally the Capricorn is pretty reliable, and I've only ever had to change it once so far.
Why not just replace the heatbreak to an all metal type & keep the rest. Should work just as well & save a lot of hassle.
You could try that. You'll need to make sure that they're compatible, and you'll still have to modify the firmware.
@@Yarkspiri TY for reply 🙂I already has one ready next to the printer. Dont see why i should touch the firmware though. (Beside it will get a new MB & ill try to get it to run clipper on it.
@@ChipMIK Well, you could try to print past the temperature limit on the machine, but it's there as a safety measure. So unless you're printing past the 140 mark, you should be good. The firmware modification is if you're going to reach higher than 140 temperatures. I'd also recommend changing out the Bowden tube with a Capricorn one, since it can release toxic fumes at higher temperatures and heat creep is an issue with that specific extruder.