Direct drive estep calibration tutorial | how to calibrate esteps on cr10 v3 & other direct drives
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ม.ค. 2021
- As always thank you for tuning in!
Like what you’re seeing? Click that subscribe button to see more content.
Want a certain video done? Drop me a comment & I’ll get it up for you!
Thanks to all who are subscribed & if you like this video give it a thumbs up!
Please share your experience on calibrating your direct drive so myself & others can learn!
Happy printing & I’ll see ya next time, DW out! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![เกิดใหม่เป็นขุนนางขึ้นเป็นใหญ่ด้วยสกิลประเมิน ตอนที่ 5 [ซับไทย]【Ani-One Thailand】](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/o0lE_L3KzBs/mqdefault.jpg)
your video really helped with a problem ive been having for months now. I just wanted to say thank you for the assist on this its a great walkthrough for this problem.!
No problem! Sorry the video is poorly edited, I’ve come a long way since than lol
Great video, thanks for the detail. I got a CR10 v3 a few days ago. Levelled, printed a dog, looked great so immediately printed all the bits for the free MK1 helmet off of Thingiverse. They came out OK but the side burns on the main bucket had lines in them that made them very weak/brittle. Posted and was told to do my E steps and with your help I am doing that now :)
Thank you for the info in this video, today i just upgraded a CR10mins to a dual gear extruder and direct drive, and it was understruding alot. Now i have to do the same to my ender3
The estep value for the CR-10v3 is higher because it's a dual gear extruder with a reduction ratio of 3:1, while the stock bowden extruders are single gear. The reduction ratio comes into play to give you a bigger steps/mm.
Great video and thank You so much for your help on these videos. Hoping and I will learn with your videos.
This is a GLORIOUS video!!! And yet one more reason why I'm so happy I found your channel!!! I watched another video before I went direct drive, and you helped me realize why another method is faulty. Some people just measure cold filament through an extruder... but pushing heated filament through the hot-end introduces some resistance that has to have some effect on the rate of extrusion. So measuring extrusion that takes into account pressing molten filament through a hot-end seems like it will be much closer to extrusion ratio during an actual print job. So great job on this, and other aspects you covered!!!
You're the man! Thanks for the detailed videos. I just got a CR-10 V3 and successfully printed the cat, dog, and pig with no problems but my first attempts at models sliced from Cura were so bad I had to learn more and found your channel! gonna binge watch now. THX.
Any questions just ask!
BRO THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO omg i was going insane before i saw your video. my printer now working awesome, and im still lil insane but not as much ;) thank you
Thank you for sitting through all the “ums” & “uhs” lol I’ve gotten much better at editing but I’m glad this helped, it was like pulling teeth!
@@Darkwingdad I was able to follow everything you were saying to the letter. And it works absolutely awesome I watched a couple other videos from other people that have done the same thing and I could not follow them or understand what the heck they're saying. Cuz they say one thing and then on the screen it'd be something completely different. Yours is you did what you said and it's showed on the screen I thought it was done very very good. :)
@@siris187a thanks man! Glad I could help!
useful bit between 6 and 10 mins. For the calculation there are many online estep calculators so you really don't have to do it by hand... the target is 100mm/actual mm * current estep value.
I’ve stumbled across these, GitHub has them to, definitely much easier!
Great job, thanks for the info. Let us know how you get on with the BL Touch and that config.
This helped me so much! I was about to chuck my CR-10V3 out of the window!
I’m glad it helped but I really should redo this video it’s so poorly edited lol thank you for sitting through the early gut wrenchingness of my channel lol
Thank you for the tutorial. I have an Ender 3 that i just upgraded with a direct drive, I did some calibration cube and now I am going to do another. Again thanks. Have an enjoyable day.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
@@Darkwingdad Took two tries to get my esteps. thanks again for the time you put in.
Great help! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks. Factory on my V3 was 382.14 - extruded 93.6, used your formula and got 408.26. It was spot on the first time. Thanks again.
Awesome! Glad it helped you out happy printing!
mine is at 382.14 too
Thank you, that helped me a lot with my Kingroon KP5L. It was 19mm under with the factory settings
Wow! No problem at all!
Great video! Was looking for issues for why my printer was under extruding, turns out my e steps were off by 300... Really helped me realize that that kind of value is an okay amount for a direct drive printer. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching, glad it helped!
Thanks for the video. What do you think of your V3? I quite like mine. Its not good at everything, but is a good tool for a lot of applications.
Only 30 seconds into video, but I subscribed cause I like the name... mad respect to DWD
Much appreciated my friend! I have some more videos coming up soon with my cr6 & 2 new printers. I appreciate the DW love!
Wild, I had the exact same default number as you, so on a whim I punched in your final number just to see how much a difference it was on my machine. My unit was only a few millimeters off from perfect after the fact. Once I apply the rest of the math I'm sure it will be even closer.
Nice! Isn’t too bad to calibrate, good luck & thanks for watching!
I was having an underextruding problem at top layer.
My CR-10V3's factory estep was 382.14 and it extruded 90mm and 91mm. I reset the estep to 422.25 and now I got 100mm!
Thanks for this video, I was lucky first and the calculation got it smack on.
Awesome! I guess mine hates me lol but man does she run smooth now!
@@Darkwingdad I’m struggling with elephants root at the moment and the nozzle just seems to run along the previous layer for the first few layers. Working though different settings and calibrations now. Just got the v3, been spoilt of years by the Prusa i3 Mk2 with all its self calibration and own slicer!
Defiantly now in a new learning curve :)
Same. Just did it
Merci pour ce tutoriel l'ami!
Very good video. Thank you.
Yes helped a ton thanks alot.
No problem!
Nice editing! Cool intro you got there advertising your skillz!
Haha it was actually a pretty bad edit but I’m glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for that information. I have another problem with my CR-10V3 my nozzle is too low and it set on the left side of the bed and when I tried to level my bed the nozzle is hitting my bed. Can you help me out with this? I am new to 3d printing. Lost
Have you completely loosened your bed springs?
For future peeps: TIGHTEN the bed springs, to lower the bed. Ideally, get a CR-TOUCH, and set the Z yourself.
oooooooof! thanks man, i was only off by 8, got it locked in 2 trys, lucky me i guess lol
Haha better than me! Happy printing
Great vid. @ 4 minutes, You forgot to overlay the previous Esteps as declared in the video. No worries tho, the point came across. Just thought I'd letcha know. 👍🏻
Yea I said 38.14 lol they were actually 382.14, I also said at the end 491.17 when my final estep was 429.17 haha my mind gets going 3 or 4 steps ahead sometimes & I goof!
What up DW!? Gonna give it a shot on my Sovol Sv01. Thanks for the Quality vids, whatever you do don't stop. I think I'm about ready to give a mask a shot, probably Black Panther. Could you recomend to me one your videos to start me on my way? Thanks agian ONE LOVE!
I’ll work on a video for you this week my dude it’ll have all slicer settings etc!
@@Darkwingdad woot woot!!
Hi! just a question on the Cura "method". it would suggest that there is a way to instruct Cura to just extrude , say 100mm of filament, without actually printing an object. does such an option exist? otherwise it would still be a perfect way to "save"the final e-step result for all future prints, right?
You have to find out what your machine is extruding to put in the gcode for the proper esteps. So the only way to find this out is by having the machine test print or extrude X amount of filament & calculate the difference or shortage to the proper value
@@Darkwingdad thanks for responding so promptly! i do understand the issue, i think. I was just wondering if I could use Cura to help me in the actual experimenting trying to find out the proper value for esteps. i fully appreciate that I can include the final value for esteps in the Cura start/end gcode sections. I hope this clarifies my question.... for now, i have stripped a Cura gcode file for a recently printed object and added a few gcode instructions for extruding 100mm of filament. tomorrow morning i'll put the printer to work(CR10S5).
@@servaasjaasma you can put the esteps in through pronterface if you’re trying to permanently implement the new value. Is that what you’re after?
@@Darkwingdad sorry for not being able to get the issue across to you, my fault entirely. what I want to do is to get Cura to make me a gcode file which does not print an actual object but does nothing more than extrude a 100 mm of filament. my question is: can this be done? does this help....
Awesome video, so thank you. Could i perform this by taking the nozzle off therefore not wasting any filament, that way I can release the extruder arm and pull it back?
I understood for every but lost in the Calibration. I have the same 382.14 was wondering if I just place the same number as you...will it work?
382.14 is the factory value, that will need to be adjusted. Have you tried extruding 100mm of filament to see if you’re under or over extruding?
The relationship between the estep setting and the mm extruded is obviously not linear. Otherwise, you would have been very close after the first test with your second estimation. You can get there a little faster successively using points that are closest (one above and one below) and interpolate the next setting to try. OR - Even faster would be to plot these points as you get them on a graph and should be able to plot a smooth curved line through 3 (or more points). The spot along the x axis that is 100 mm will give you your best guess at a setting value (on y axis of graph). Hope this helps.
It should be linear. It’s possible the creality machine with the titan extruder just has issues with grabbing filament and pushing it through consistently. I have one and the extruder sucks
Is the BL touch a good idea to place on a CR-10 V3? I would like to learn as much as I can. I have a wedding coming up for my daughter and would like to make her some Eiffel Tower. please help me.
You don’t need the bltouch :) I recommend silicone bed mounts instead
If you bring the mark down to the start of the extruder with a mother marking 100mm above it , how would you be able to tell how much you over extruded , as the all marking a would have been melted ?
You can make an additional mark 10mm after your 100mm mark to determine how much your over extruding. Although it’s rare it does happen. So if it does just make 1 or 2 marks 10mm each and calculate how much you over extruded.
where did you get the filament run out sensor bracket?
It came with the cr10v3 there are ones you can print though
Could you please share your start gcode and end gcode wiuld really appreciate!
Why not just mark at the top of the extruder (straight line at the collar) and then again at the top at 100mm? Any reason? THX
As long as you can mark, measure & inspect you can do it anywhere on the filament. This is just where I measured on the machine.
Thanks when my CR-10 V3 gets here I will calibrate..
Would you be able to show how did you get -20.1 and then +16.1 please
The -20.1 is the length of filament that was left over after telling the machine to extrude 100mm. He asked the machine to extrude 100mm, it only extruded 79.9mm. Therefore, it under extruded 20.1mm of filament. Same thing with the 16.1, however when telling the machine to extrude 100mm, it actually extruded 116.1, meaning it extruded 16.1mm too much. You would measure these against the markings you made on the filament with a sharpie.
Just in case anyone else is reading this, I got a cr-10 v3 and also had the original 382.14 value but only needed to do the 100 mm extrusion once to get a 415.37 which was exactly 100mm extrusion. So it is up to luck how many times you'll have to do it.
You won the lottery on that one!
That's what I'm using. Been here all morning googling, and trying to understand how to do this There is filiment in the Direct Drive, and the HOT end, so, how do we measure that? Or do we have to clean it out 100% 1st, measure it, mark it, then load the filament and push the 1st mark all the way down to the hot end? What I did was, mark 100mm from start of DD. Got a #, did the math, landed on 409.1. Repeated the process, and the mark is now about .5mm above the DD. So, I'm SET, done at 409.1? If I Did this right?
Lol. Just stumbled across my own comment. 3 months later, STILL troubleshooting my CR10V3, and have not put it into use.
419.41 not 491.41 check ure video you said it wrong,but Thank You for the help!
I just get it close with math and then just keep doing 100mm tests with a caliper.
Then if you want to get it even closer then do 50mm tests and then 25mm tests. Yeah it’s some filament but it’s definitely better to get the mechanical measurement perfect just because the gears do wear and they have a average amount of gear lash slop!
hi , i’m new , do i have to do this ?
Yes the first thing you should do is calibrate your esteps
@@Darkwingdad did it massive massive thanks !!! Have subbed
@@Darkwingdad did it fine but when I turn off machine then back on the new e-step settings is lost & returns back to the default 382.14
Is there a way to keep the correct calibrated setting ?
EDIT think I’ve found it -I pressed “save” on sane menu thanks
@@adrianstealth340 2 ways you can do it.
1) input your new esteps into the machine under the control setting
2) Input the esteps into the gcode of your slicer. Often times the machine can revert back to factory esteps if not used routinely or if unplugged.
No worries though with the gcode as when you beginning printing it puts those new steps in for you as soon as you select print!
@@Darkwingdad cheers again I’ll do the G-code thing if the save reverts back I’ll keep checking due a while
Have a great weekend
I discovered how to get the numbers accurate the first try. need someone to confirm solution.
Wtf mate I took a pic of your machine and review the video all over again, and I never saw that 382.14, where in earth do you get that number, i saw 419.17
382.14 were my factory esteps(value out of the box) 419.17 were the adjusted new esteps
Change your intro
I already did lol
Your intro is so long I almost quit watching.
Lol it’s ok the new videos the intro is shorter
A lot of jumping around, repetitive, showed how to update a YEARS old program of Cura. I appreciate what he was trying to do but was a miss, for me. Read a lot if positive comments and seemed to help a lot of people.