I have never experienced a problem with high mileage oil. Also with continued testing we may start to see a difference. Im going to use oil additives that have a higher number of seal swelling agents.
The high mileage oils offer no benefit, and some high mileage oils actually get decertified for some specs due to them being high mileage, with whatever additives that entails, dexos being one of those certs. It had also been said that VCT solenoids may be sludged by extended use of high milage oil.
They're not seal swelling additives. They are seal reconditioning additives. So when a seal is old, dried out and flattening. If you bring it back up a bit it may become more plump than it was. As is the characteristics of rubber. Silicone doesn't break down the same as rubber nor is it restored by the same processes. Anyway, i hate when people use the term swelling as if its creating something abnormal or different than what was there. It simply attempts to both keep seals n that good but also does a half assed attempt at reconditioning thus the reason u dont see a diff on a brand new seal because it doesn't swell anything if its in brand new or good condition. It will only moderately over time attempt to restore and condition. Its like moisturizing old leather or something ya know. Your not changing it, just attempting to make it better.
@Prime Artemis Well based on being a Master Certified Diesel Technician high mileage oil does nothing but make you feel better. If anything it swells seals and will eventually cause them to fail.
@Prime Artemis Drain and fill. 50k or 5yrs. Newer vehicles have longer intervals. You may be under the milage but if that's the original trans fluid I would change it.
@Prime Artemis There have been reports of flushing service circulating debris inside the trans and causing failure. I have no first hand knowledge tho, just something I heard about.
I use the High Mileage every third oil change. I don't believe the engine constantly needs seal conditioners. Sometimes I will put one quart in with 4 quarts of non high Mileage oil. I currently have 288,600 miles on the engine.
My rear main seal stays consistently hot my LS6 motor runs around 225° before the fans kick on... I'm also running at 6,500 RPMs in the rev limiter... now would be the question which one would protect my seals better underneath this aggressive hot rod driving
Been using Valvoline high mileage synthetic for years with no issue. Both my Silverado and Blazer are approaching 350,000 miles each. My other 2 vehicles are over 200,000.
350k? wow, i have a question, please help me. Is it true that you have to use premium gasoline so that your cars last longer? Or your cars have lasted so long on regular gasoline?
@@kuul-animations2810 I've never used premium. Just use good oil and change it regularly, all other fluids too. And dont hot rod. My previous truck was sold with almost half a million miles on it. It still runs today.
@@kuul-animations2810 Premium Gasoline dosen't help all that much. It's just more oxygenated, but a quality gasoline definitely helps. Like a major brand. Not just Premium. I hardly ever use budget gasolines. The reason is those added cleaning agents that keeps your plugs, valves, and throttle body cleaner longer. I didn't have to clean my throttle body until around 210k miles. My plugs stay cleaner as well. Budget gasoline isn't as clean so you get those deposits that lead to other problems. In the end. It costs you less down the road.
Remember this when you're laying in a hospital bed on the last days of your life. Remember how you spent those 5 minutes of your life when just about everything was going smoothly...
high mileage has other functions in certain brands like sludge removal and i find it to be slightly better. i dont like pure synthetic it tends to burn up and become thin as well versus conventional, the engine may have been poor but still i think having the more resilient oil will protect your engine better in a daily driver.
We have a 1999 Honda Accord with a 4 cylinder engine, at 75,000 miles I started using Castrol GTX High Mileage 5w-30 oil. The car currently has 365,000 miles and runs great with no leaks. It does use a little oil and we still use it as a daily driver. No problems here.
I use GTX HM 15w50 in my Merc M104 engine which are famous for leaking all the way to a million miles. It drastically reduced the drips on my garage floor compared to the Diesel 15w50 I was running before it, despite the diesel oil being quite a bit thicker (at the thicker end of 50 weight vs thinner end for the GTX)
As the rubber ages it gets hard and stops sealing. High mileage oil is supposed to soften the rubber not expand it. You should only use it on high mileage cars that may have hardened seals
Except some of the swelling agents, DO swell it which is the mechanism behind which some products claim to slow if not stop leaks. Softening by itself, doesn't slow leaks, since you'd still have the same tolerance/measurement difference that allows the oil to seep past.
@@stinkycheese804 The softening allows the oil pressure inside the engine to reseal against leaks. Most modern engines (most anything made after ~1995) don't use the old rubber seals that had hardening issues, anyway...
@@looncraz oil is pretty high tech. They're generally not going to put something in the oil that is completely useless. I think I've even seen bottle of high milage oil "for older vehicles" but don't remember who made it.
Oil swells rubber. It’s why used car salesmen oil down sunroof, t top and targa top seals before showing a car. Temporarily stops the seals leaking and sometimes even hides gouges in the rubber that are visible when it’s dried out. If it’s rubber and it’s shiny it’s got oil on it especially if it’s used. Which oil is irrelevant. It’s not always crooked because it used to be common practice as part of regular maintenance that when you washed and vacuumed the car you wiped all seals (doors, windows, sunroof, etc) with some oil product or other. Can used Marvel Mystery Oil, or Armor All or Vaseline it just needs to be liquid at relatively low temperatures so it’ll soak into the rubber. Even tire shine will do it to some degree.
@@looncraz Whats your opinion about Castrol GTX which is reasonably priced and claims to a have better cleaning effect and my car is 2014. Toyota, Is the cleaning agent then not going to be more detrimental to the seals but for modern oil burning piston problems on most makes these days but better at keeping the rings from clogging up!?
How did he get difference in thickness of the ring, but the inner and outer diameters are equal? It’s either a measuring error or minute difference in different parts of the ring.
Yep, every manufacturer has tolerances, and one as ratty as Honda has wide tolerances. It’s why 1 will run for close to a quarter million miles and the other 700,000 from the same production run are burning oil by 20,000 miles and rebuilt multiple times by the time they hit 200,000 miles. Shity seals seems like par for the course.
@@308dad8 I assume this is sarcasm? Honda makes more internal combustion engines internationally than anyone period. You think it got that way by making poor quality products?
Just to be clear you didn't conclude it hurt anything just that it didn't improve anything? I think it's fair to say with 99.9% certainty the testing method simulated absolutely nothing close to a high mileage seal pressed, exposed to pressure and temperature cycled a 1000 times over before they even claim the use of high mileage oil is beneficial. You can't possibly simulate 5 years at 15k miles a year of driving with a coffee pot and heat.
The only thing he was testing was the claim that using high mileage oil in a new engine will cause the seals to swell. This is farm from scientific, but it was never intended to simulate the 5 years at 15k miles per year that mention.
A middle school science project.......at best. No accounting for molecular changes affecting seal elasticity after thousands of hours of friction, heat, and age.
I was a mechanic for a number of years. I could give five different mechanics the same part and get five different measurements. I would also bet good money that if you shut your eyes and You measured that part 3 times you would get different measurements. Also how are you accurately measuring a rubber seal?
The rubber is flexible, how do you measure it? If you measure it hot it will be larger cold smaller. And the part that I made varied by just rubbing it on your pant leg. The friction heated it up enough to enlarge it. Plus you mention the original mfg. has a range of tolerance. Unless you can measure the durometer of the rubber or degredation caused by the chemicals your test is worthless.
I agree with you Chris, CNC machinist here, I have top notch calipers in my hands at least 30 times per day depending on which part I am running. Usually way more, most people can’t even get things squared up properly for a correct measurement.
I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage in my '04 Honda CR-V that I got with 196K miles. I'm now on 296K miles 3 years later and I had the valve cover gasket changed. The motor looked gorgeous when they had the valve cover off and she still runs like a top. I'd say that 100K miles with it's first leak is darn good for something I drive 175 miles per day on average. And all I've done to it maintenance-wise are oil changes 3X a year with K&N oil filters and I just took out the K&N air filter to replace it with an OEM type after 100K. I had the plugs changed about 40K miles ago. That's it really.
High mileage oil has detergents to clean varnish, sludge, and other deposits. Normal synthetic does not. I've switched to high mileage, and after a few thousand miles I've already noticed a difference, I'm getting better engine performance. I used to run normal full synthetic. I have 200k on a 4.6 triton motor, no leaks from the engine.
200k? wow, i have a question, please help me. Is it true that you have to use premium gasoline so that your cars last longer? Or your cars have lasted so long on regular gasoline?
Been using Mobil 1 High Mileage for over 20 years, I use it to the max they claim it can go 10,000 miles, never had any seal failures with this oil, my 2003 liberty has 227,367 miles on it and is as quiet as can be and I don't drive like an old man either .
I've been using 5W30 High mileage mobil 1 in my 1991 C1500 with 314,000 miles for a while and the rear main seal seems to have less oil drips from its leaks after using this oil. The rear main seal is the only seal that leaks after I replaced the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket. I will continue using it.
Thanks for sharing, in my case it turned out to be the opposite! I had a minor leak on the rear main seal and is now complete gone. I switched to mb1 synthetic high mileage oil about 2 years ago and so far no issues.
I just changed oil in my 2002 GMC Envoy. 321k. I switched to Valvoline HM synthetic blend around 170k. I just replaced the Variable Valve Solenoid this week. It looked good with no build up. Its started leaking into the connector. That's it. I also use Lucas additive.
Your comparing with two new seals. The problem I have with this demo is that when seals go through repeated hot to cold cycles plus age for thousands of miles they change. Moreover, they change in a way that they loose their elasticity to eventually become brittle like a hard plastic. Therfore, the purpose of high mileage is to restore elasticity to seals that have lost it's elasticity and soften [make less brittle] of high milage seals, not intended to be used on new or low milage seals. However, it seams that what your demo shows that the high mileage oil doesn't damage new low mileage seals. One more thing, the seals that get the most punishment are the valve steam seals, due to the high heat especially the ones on the exhaust valves.
Jose, These seals appear to be made of Viton rubber vs Black Nitrile. Nitrile has that tendency to get brittle early on. Wherever possible, I replace and and all O-Rings and seals to Viton. You pay a premium price for Viton, but it is superior!
The conditioners or additives are not meant to "swell" seals. They condition the seals to remain "youthful" and strong. It's like adding leather cleaner to bucket seats, it simply keeps it "hydrated". Cheap stuff is to be avoided of course. You never know what kind of testing they did.. but anything like Valvoline, GTX - high mileage oil is great stuff.
Except that's what it does, any that claim to reduce leaks. "Youthful" and "strong" read more like marketing gobbledegook, are not engineering terms applicable to oil seal performance. The bottom line is they necessarily have a chemical that change the molecular composition of the seal and if engineers wanted a different molecular composition on a new seal, they would have picked a different seal, or size when it swells them.
This video is about as scientific as the current Covid restrictions. Use any Starburst/API oil that is recommended in your owners manual and change it a 5000k miles. Your engine will last a very long time.
@4:44 I would have used some wire mesh/screen so as to elevate the seals off of the bottom of the coffee pot element/heater. That may possibly cause a bit of direct heat stress and or distortion. Very basic test you did but a great little test. Thanks. 👍
In general, the "high mileage" claims on engine oils are down to differences in base oil selection and antioxidant additives. This is mainly in the pursuit of better varnish protection and fewer deposits so the amount of seal swell agent employed shouldn't change significantly. The experience some people have of synthetics producing leaks still seems to persist - a theory that makes sense is that the higher solvency and improved detergent/dispersant systems employed in premium engine oils clean out deposits and varnish; some of these deposits may have actually been "plugging" seals, so when they are removed you see leaks.
I agree because both oils actually contain seal swelling agents, though the high mileage has a higher level of swelling agents. The varnish being worse with high mileage oil is the only issue for me. I believe the buildup thats cleaned causing leaks isn't as bad as what is often said. Especially when using a good quality synthetic. Thanks for sharing all the great information. I love to learn what others have experienced. Kindness is key.
I think this happened to my engine. I switched from Castrol Edge to M1 HM and then a leak developed. And I can tell the oil does well at cleaning the engine because before the edge would practically look no different from when it was new but the Mobil 1 would get darker rather quickly to the point you can see black flecks on the dipstick.
Most high detergent synthetics will make old engine which was run on dino leak, incl. mine. But once friend's customer decided to change oil him self, bought CT brand 5w-20 synthetic and s..t happened. The car was 2010's Accord with the infamous 2.4L in line 4, and they're known for oil consumption. Anyway, normally the engine run using Honda OEM oil, a used maybe half liter every oil change at 6k miles (10k km), with no leaks. So 2k miles after the DIY oil change the RED Oil Pressure light comes ON, and the engine is dry. I don't know if he didn't tighten the filter, but assume he did. Oil leaked via crank seals since the engine was wet underneath and some of it was probably consumed during the combustion. Since then it consumes 2-2.5L per oil change. I also had similar situation with CT brand synthetic - the dipstick was bone dry after 1k miles. It leaked mainly via rear main. I added regular bottle of Castrol GTX and Honda OEM and lucky for me it stopped leaking. Friend of mine used LiquiMoly 5w-40 in his older Odyssey because it controlled the leaks - it went over 300k in our Rust Belt when he sold it to some home improvement guy. Not all oils are formulated equally.
One thing I would change about your test, is that these seals are usually exposed to the oil while it is hot. heating the oil once and then leaving it for a month doesn't seem like a good simulation. I'm no expert, but it feels like running both at operating temperature for the full month (in a safe environment) would be a better simulation
I thought he was going to heat each of the seals for 24 hours every other day. The seals go through heat cycles every day and vibration also, and I think this test provides very little information.
Sounds like the high mileage oil helped the seal expand in order to keep it pressing against the crankshaft in spite of the wear grooves that would occur on it over a long period of time.
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This video is based on a fact from the 70s 80s era when high mileage oils first came out the chemicals used back then were incompatible with the rubber used back then it would cause them to swell dramatically and fail. This was noted and todays today they have corrected the compatibility of the oil and seals highmilage oil isn't really meant for seals it's meant to seal and protect the wear of the metal on metal wear that happens over time helping to keep the tolerances tight. Also if a seal cracks from drying out no stop leak in the world will fix it
I used Mobil 1 high mileage on an 87 Nissan pick up after the first 100k miles of use. Had the truck for 30 years till 2017 and 400k miles. Never had any sealed problems, or had to do any internal work on the engine the entire time. Have never had any vehicle, or engine, last that long trouble free. Will continue to use Mobile 1 extended mileage oil in my current vehicle, a 2012 Ford transit connect.
1988 GMC 1/2 ton truck w/Throttle Body 350 - over 369k miles. 253K miles running M1 10W-30 HM - No issues - No Oil Leaks - 6K mile OCI - used about 1/4qt between OCI. Oil Myths - are a dime a dozen these days! CAFE falls into this same category
Ive never had ant issue with using high milage oil in my high milage vehicles. As a matter of fact I had a 2002 Avalanche I bought when it was only 6 months old. I always used Mobil 1 synthetic in it and when it got to 75,000 I started using high milage Mobil 1 synthetic and I had that truck for 12 years and put 189,000 miles on it. When I traded it in it ran just as good then as it did when it was brand new and it also never burnt a drop of oil or leaked. So yeah this video isnt true.
I used high mileage in my old Pontiac engine that had no leaks what so ever and within a week my rear seal started leaking. Leaked so much and so fast that I had to park it within a month because it was throwing oil onto the exhaust and smoking to bad. I used Pennzoil High Mileage with the cleaners they put in it.
@@FlyingHighInAC . It might be more of an issue with pennzoil synthetic and not because of high mileage, I had the same experience using pennzoil on a 2000 Honda civic and a 98 Toyota camry, the civic was just leaking a little before I used pennzoil but the camry wasn't even leaking, it could be that pennzoil has more detergents that's why is rated higher than most synthetics, I rather just stay away from it. But the fact remains if you keep up with your oil changes, you will be OK with just regular synthetic I used the supertech high mileage on a 2008 Toyota corolla that I bought a year ago, car didn't have leaks when I bought it at 125 thousand miles is now at 165 thousand miles because I use it for my food delivery job and what impresses me the most that it did have an oil consumption issue of about 12 Oz. In between oil changes and I have always changed the oil every 5 thousand miles with high mileage supertech synthetic from Walmart and I just noticed that in the last 2 oil changes the level of the oil never went down, the little bit of oil consumption stopped completely and I believe it happened because I've done the oil changes in timely manner the oil still looks pretty clean after 5 thousand miles, this car only had one previous owner when I bought it and he did take care of it but I'm doing even better myself. But i I might just start using the supertech synthetic which is the new advanced full synthetic from supertech because my concern with high mileage oils is that the seal additives can rejuvenate the seals, that sounds good but if it swells up the seals that could be bad too. That's why the most important thing is change the oil at the proper intervals clean oil won't dry up the seals.
Best advice I can give car owners is to replace engine oil/filter at proper intervals, and to KEEP ENGINE AND ENGINE BAY CLEAN AT ALL TIMES. You will be amazed at how much money on parts and service you will save by keeping those items CLEAN. And it only takes a few minutes of your time BEFORE you wash and polish your vehicle. As a mechanic for over 40 years, I have seen many a beautiful car with stacks of problems because they never CLEAN THE ENGINE AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT. Also, pressure wash your FRONT and REAR braking systems before you wash/shine rest of vehicle. I guarantee those extra 30 minutes or so of work you put into your car will greatly extend the life of your car as well as your enjoyment of it.
Very interesting advice. If you don't mind, can you explain how to clean the engine and engine bay?? Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise! 👍🏻
So many good points about the poor test. Besides the seals would not even be submerged but only one side of the actual lip seal. If the lip was worn swelling would restore the seal to some degree.
Well, I own a 2007 Kia Sportage V6 LX since new, At 75,000 miles started to use Pennzoil high mileage full synthetic 10-30, Florida USA..... now after 227,000 no leaks whatsoever, no smoke and purring as a young Cat......I am happy 😁
First of all, I've never heard that High mileage oils damage engines, nor have I heard of the Mfg's suggesting it n new engines. Also why use it in a new engine? When consulting a manufacturer regarding the difference, they tell us the HM Oils have more detergents in them, not necessarily "seal swelling agents". Now, for real life? I used Pennzoil High Mileage in a 1994 Ford E-350 460 CID Motorhome beginning around 100K miles, that engine lasted to 324K, then I changed it because it started having problems pulling mountains.
Been a mechanic 25 years. If you change your oil every 4 to 5000 miles you can use any darn oil you wanna. I've used walmart oil for years. All my vehicles have 300k plus miles on them.
I use Super Tech synthetic and just got back an oil analysis yesterday. The results show very low levels of metals that would indicate wear. No reason to use anything else I change the oil every 5,000 miles but I change the filter every 10,000 using a Fram Ultra filter rated for 20,000 miles.
@@masterofnone1808 I hear ya. Your better off getting the cheap fram and replacing it every oil change instead. That's my honest opinion. The new oil is going to pick up contaminants from used oil filter. Just get the cheaper one at half the price every oil change.
@@masterofnone1808 you'll notice your oil is already discolored right after a change with a used oil filter. I wouldnt do that. Buy a cheap one every oil change. Your way better off.
@@MrSocko-vn7fw I have a cartridge filter and when I change my oil even though I don't always change the filter, I still drain the old oil out of the oil filter housing. Total insolubles on my oil analysis was only 0.2 ppm indicating that the filter was still doing it's job.
Seal swelling is a misnomer and has been used to condemn the use of high-mileage oils. Seal conditioners do no more and no less than to maintain the plasticizers that keep rubber and plastics from hardening. All rubber and plastics contain them and there is some beneficial effects from replenishing them.
@@ME262MKI Maybe, I started using it a few years ago in my 200,000 mile 2009 Corolla. Now at almost 300,000 I can say the oil consumption is less than it was prior.
Most people who use high mileage in newer car is probably because of the belief that they put in stronger/more cleaning agents so it will keep your engine cleaner than regular oil. Some oils it's true some not.
@@protocolkey Minimal research would tell them that these oils have additives to cause seals and gaskets to swell. A foolish thing to do in a new engine.
I have 2 Dodge Caravans. One has a 3.6L and the other has a 3.8L. The 3.6L has never had any high mileage oil used in it. I always used Valvoline 5w30 full synthetic oil. There are 245K miles on this vehicle. It doesn't use any oil between changes at 5,000 miles. The 3.8L has had Valvoline 5w20 semi synthetic high mileage oil since it had 75K miles on it. It had 208K miles on it when I bought it. It was using 1 qt every 500 miles. After changing out the original PCV valve and cleaning up the oil return piston rings, it now uses 1 qt every 5,000 miles. I'll stay with my regular full synthetic oil and see how long that 3.6L lasts. I changed the 3.8L to the same oil as the 3.6L and I believe the increase in viscosity has been part of the lower oil consumption in that engine.
Good effort. Other factors hard to demonstrate are the results of hot cold cycles and extremes. Some places go -20F or lower. Plus pressures and rotating shaft dynamics. Too hard to replicate real world processes. Throw in OCI which varies with owners. Basically at the mercy of producers claims.
Since I purchased my Hyundai Elantra in 2002, I have always used STP 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil and filter which I change every 8-10K miles depending on season of year. It's very hot here in Florida during summer days. As of last oil filter change on 7/3/2021, I still have to find an oil leak ANYWHERE on the engine! There are no lifter noises or knocking noises from the engine either. It drives strong and get 18-20mpg. Same goes with the automatic transmission fluid, which I change COMPLETELY every January of every year. Never had to touch any internal parts or change gaskets/seals. Changed timing belt in 2004 with quality belt and have never touched it again. Still have original starter, alternator, brake master cylinder. Replaced passenger cv-shaft once due to broken boots, 1 radiator and hoses, 1 battery, rear brake shoes and front pads 2x, front rotors 1x. And don't assume I pussyfoot my car while driving because I drive it hard every day.
Guess I should try it. My car has 150k and has been burning oil for about 3 or 4 years now. Also puff blue smoke on cold start up. Been using regular oil all its life.
Just had a rear main seal replaced on a newly rebuilt 305. The engine only has 15,000 miles on it and it was leaking like no one's business. Oil used was 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum, it was change at or before every 3,000 miles. I have learned at least with GM products not to use a full synthetic oil. Every one I've had now or high mileage leaks with synthetic. The Ford trucks we have at work use a semi syn and do not leak. So I went with original yellow bottle Pennzoil 5w-30. Thought that was conventional oil but, to my surprise when I got on their website I discovered it was semi syn. I'll give it time but, if it starts to leak as before I'm going with the High mileage version of their oil.
Would be cool to see the same test but with a very old used seal, maybe the HM rehydrates/reconditions an old seal rather than have some additive to swell any seal. Maybe an old seal you can cut in half and test each half. Then there is the argument about what will happen if you use HM oil then later switch back to a regular oil without the swelling additives. Will the old seal half treated in HM oil shrink back down and cause leaks to return right away or will the conditioning treatment in the seal last over time.
I have used high mileage oils only AFTER I had a small leak at the seal. It softens the seals, doesn’t “expand” then. Stopped my minor leak on an engine with 154k miles. That is my experience. Now for how long? We’ll see.
I had a 2007 Lucerne with a Northstar 4.6 L v8. Tried Mobil 1 High Mileage oil at 52 k miles. By 60 k miles the main block seal was leaking. Dealer tried tightening block bolts, still leaked. Buick covered 90% of the cost to split the block and reseal. Northstar 4.6 L v8 had a two part block that used a caulk like material to seal it. Will NEVER again use High Mileage oil! I use full synthetic oil on all my cars. Don't want to ever have oil leakage issues again.
That is the same oil I use in my 1995 Chevy C1500.I NEVER had one issue with that oil. In fact when I switched to that oil, after about 200 miles, the truck idled smoother.
Kills me how many TH-camrs (Scotty Kilmer being one of them) post a title to a video that isn't accurate to the content. Quit wasting our time, especially if you expect a like or is you want me to subscribe!
I assumed it softens the older seal. I know the Blue Dragon stopped a Power Steering leak in my 2007 CIVIC with 180,000. I have a tube of Dow Corning 55 o-ring lube that says it soften o-ring slightly. I made the mistake of using it on my Moen kitchen faucet rebuild. In a week, you could not budge the spigot. I popped it apart. When, I pull the spigot up, a o-ring fell out. It had swelled so big, it thru me to were came from. You don't want that going on with that Mobile 1 high mileage. Little soften might prolong things. I been adding one quart of it to my regular change of Mobile 1 to the old Civic. Haven't noticed much change. It has a few leaks. Not so bad it drips. But no change. I have replaced the valve cover gasket. The power steering leak is back after 30,000k. It's actually looks like it's coming from the pump. Rebuilt time . Seals are $43 from Honda.
I think that you completely bought the test you're using brand new seals high mileage oil is to condition old seals so if you wanted to do the test correctly you should have taken two old seals and did the test with the two old seals and see if they swelled up because brand new seals can't swell up anymore because they haven't been worn out
That stuff is amazing!! I had a power steering rack leak for about a year, it was just pouring out. As soon as I added AT 205 reseal it stopped completely. And it is still holding up 5 months later without adding a drop of power steering fluid. Truly remarkable
I've been using Mobil 1 HM after a Corolla forum swore it would help with the sludge problems these engines have. I believe it does clean the engine well but shortly after I have been using it a leak developed. I've been driving with this leak for well over a year now. I put about a quart of oil in it and can last about a month if I don't rev too high. I noticed it doesn't leak below a certain level so my guess the leak is somewhere well above. Before this oil I used to use Castrol Edge and never had any leaks. And I used it for years. But it's not great at removing carbon buildup. I want to try to use atp205 and see if my leak will stop. I have no idea where my leak is and really rather spend $12 on the ATP before having to possibly do a main seal or wherever it may be?
You have a leak, because you have a leak. Oil doesn't cause leaks, it doesn't stop leaks. Certain additives can extend the life of seals, but everything wears out. The most common leaks early on are from the valve cover and the oil pan. Of you have a remote oil cooler, those lines eventually swell and leak. If it's rubber, it will need replacement. Sludge is dangerous because it can build up and cause oil starvation issues. Synthetic oil doesn't sludge, and it can even clean sludge out over time. Any leaks that developed, aren't from the oil, they were there already.
I'm surprised. But on second thought, those mail seals have a spring inside to keep them tight. Still, the thickness test should show a difference. Maybe Patrick is right... the seal conditioners don't expand the seals, but they do keep the rubber pliable.
my 2003 LS1 engine in my corvette needs the older design additive package in the high milage oil, more modern valve trains are less severe and use use a completely different anti wear additive package . This test ignores the main reason for me to run the high mileage oil, but it did ease my concerns about the seal conditioners, since my seals don't leak.
One time my wife took her car to one of those places and the idiots only put the drain plug on finger tight. After a couple days later she said the car was making a ticking sound,that's when I discovered it. Most of the oil had leaked out of the drain. Lucky we caught it before the engine blew. NEVER AGAIN,I change the oil now in all of our vehicles.
@@backyardbuck6362 close call for sure! Glad you caught it in time. My Pops had his oil changed once, and the drain plug fell out on the way home 😂🤣 he was pissed!
I have a 2016 Fusion 1.5ltr ecoboost with 170,000 miles. I've used Penzoil Full Synthetic from day one. I switched to the high mileage around 80,000 miles. I have zero oil consumption or leaks ! That's my experience!!
Been using Mobile 1 High Mileage for a few years on a car that has about 295K miles and the only leak I've observed is from the oil pan, which is normal for the car I own. Will consider using regular 5W-30 for my next oil change after watching this video. Thank you for sharing your work and results.
I did a little research a long time ago with the ingredients and found that high milage is oil is better because it falls under older manufacturing rules which allows it to contain more lead which acts as a lubricant. New synthetic oils have too much detergents. High milage may cause welling but that in my opinion is better than degrading a seal due to detergents.
I've taken 1,000 engines apart. I always ask my customers what oil they used. I have learned alot in the past 40 years. Each oil does different things. Bitron, if you can find it, will polish a valve guide. If a customer says his car smokes at start up and while driving I recommend using a high mileage oil. Sometimes after two oil changes it will either quit or persist. Lucas makes great products. I have enough stories about oil and additives to fill a book.
i have a 2000 chevy silverado with 310k miles. Just switched to high mileage oil and the leaks got worse and now the check engine oil pressure light came on. Could the change have caused that and should I go back to the regular oil? Or can putting a Stop Leak help the situation?
@@robtempe use Lucas engine treatment. That's unusual for that to happen with a high mileage oil. Make sure too you did not over fill the crank case with oil. A 10- 30w is more likely to leak than a 10-40w. Use the Lucas non synthetic. It's not a cure all. Most likely you have worn valve guide seals. It is possible to pull valve covers take the springs off and replace the seals without pulling the heads.
There is so much much more going on in a running engine. Crankcase pressure, contaminants, fuel dilution, simple ageing (heat & oxidisation) I really don't think this test has any relevance to reality. Nice try though.
I had a 70 ford Econoline with over 500k miles on it. Gas hog but never used any oil. Had a few leaks in the oil pan and outer seal, but hardly anything and used whatever oil was on sale with Fram filters, but always changed the oil at 3000 miles. Change your oil at 3-5k and you will be fine.
Synthetic oils can go 10,000 or one year. Whichever comes first. Also fram filters are one of the worst. Check on youtube for filter tests, wix seems to be one of the best. But a few others are really good and the top filters.
Good video Nate👍I did not think anything would change as well. There is so much hype on the internet.. I believe in early oil changes. I never go over 3500 miles on a oil change.. as of lately I've been changing it between 1,500 to 1,700 miles. I change it myself so it doesn't cost much.. however I always use very good quality motor oils. My oil is Crystal clear when I change it. I am a fanatic when it comes to maintenance.
I've been using Mobil 1 high mileage extended performance full synthetic in my vehicles for years. My 2008 Honda Accord and my 2003 Dodge Neon SRT-4 both have 220k miles on them and my Pontiac Solstice GXP has over 100k, they all run fine. The Honda and Dodge burn or leak a bit of oil (as to be expected with over 200k miles and being 15-20 years old), i have to add half a qt every 1000 miles or so. I change the oil between 6000-7000 miles. My main factors are the service reminders coming on, and if the oil is starting to look dark/dirty. I always change the filter when changing the oil, and periodically check the oil level and top it off.
I'm not really sure if you're speaking about a high mileage formulation for older engines with high mileage on them because you're showing an extended drain service interval oil.
This is precisely what high-mileage oil is for, it has additives that make the seals expand and thus avoid the leaks of an engine with many miles traveled, so it is perfectly normal for a seal that works in a high-mileage oil is bigger.
Few years back I changed my oil to Mobil One high mileage in a 2000 Taurus with the 3.0 base engine (pushrod motor). It had well over 100k on it and had previously been run on non synthetic non high mileage regular oil. Immediately upon starting the motor the lifters sounded like they were being ground to bits. It showed oil pressure so I let it run for maybe 3 or 4 minutes. Noise didn't stop and when I pulled the dipstick out there was smoke coming out of the tube. Pulled the cap and smoke there also. changed back to regular oil and everything immediately went back to normal.
I have never experienced a problem with high mileage oil. Also with continued testing we may start to see a difference. Im going to use oil additives that have a higher number of seal swelling agents.
The high mileage oils offer no benefit, and some high mileage oils actually get decertified for some specs due to them being high mileage, with whatever additives that entails, dexos being one of those certs. It had also been said that VCT solenoids may be sludged by extended use of high milage oil.
I had no problems with mobile one high mileage. Some people put stuff they shouldn't be using
@@janielramirez9181 i had 2 cars go 350.000 miles and all went well. Also sold them still running.
@@Peter-od7op good
They're not seal swelling additives.
They are seal reconditioning additives.
So when a seal is old, dried out and flattening. If you bring it back up a bit it may become more plump than it was. As is the characteristics of rubber. Silicone doesn't break down the same as rubber nor is it restored by the same processes.
Anyway, i hate when people use the term swelling as if its creating something abnormal or different than what was there.
It simply attempts to both keep seals n that good but also does a half assed attempt at reconditioning thus the reason u dont see a diff on a brand new seal because it doesn't swell anything if its in brand new or good condition. It will only moderately over time attempt to restore and condition.
Its like moisturizing old leather or something ya know. Your not changing it, just attempting to make it better.
Gonna save everyone some time here, just change your oil at a regular service interval. You'll be fine.
@Prime Artemis Well based on being a Master Certified Diesel Technician high mileage oil does nothing but make you feel better. If anything it swells seals and will eventually cause them to fail.
@Prime Artemis Drain and fill. 50k or 5yrs. Newer vehicles have longer intervals. You may be under the milage but if that's the original trans fluid I would change it.
@Prime Artemis There have been reports of flushing service circulating debris inside the trans and causing failure. I have no first hand knowledge tho, just something I heard about.
Thats what I was thinking loo
Facts 🙏
I think I’m going to continue using high mileage motor oil and change it in regular intervals like I have for decades.
I use the High Mileage every third oil change. I don't believe the engine constantly needs seal conditioners. Sometimes I will put one quart in with 4 quarts of non high Mileage oil. I currently have 288,600 miles on the engine.
That’s what I do. Several extra dollars at every oil change but will save me hundreds of dollars down the road.
I've never used high milage oil. If a seal is leaking, just replace it. Most seals aren't too hard to replace.
@@deutsch-amerikanisch8281 the thing is that high mileage engine oils are extra insurance to protect seals BEFORE they fail, but I get your point
My rear main seal stays consistently hot my LS6 motor runs around 225° before the fans kick on... I'm also running at 6,500 RPMs in the rev limiter... now would be the question which one would protect my seals better underneath this aggressive hot rod driving
Been using Valvoline high mileage synthetic for years with no issue. Both my Silverado and Blazer are approaching 350,000 miles each. My other 2 vehicles are over 200,000.
Same here with my Envoy 310k and still kicking.
350k? wow, i have a question, please help me. Is it true that you have to use premium gasoline so that your cars last longer? Or your cars have lasted so long on regular gasoline?
@@kuul-animations2810 I've never used premium. Just use good oil and change it regularly, all other fluids too. And dont hot rod. My previous truck was sold with almost half a million miles on it. It still runs today.
@@kuul-animations2810 Premium Gasoline dosen't help all that much. It's just more oxygenated, but a quality gasoline definitely helps. Like a major brand. Not just Premium. I hardly ever use budget gasolines. The reason is those added cleaning agents that keeps your plugs, valves, and throttle body cleaner longer. I didn't have to clean my throttle body until around 210k miles. My plugs stay cleaner as well. Budget gasoline isn't as clean so you get those deposits that lead to other problems. In the end. It costs you less down the road.
Sounds like my kinda rigs Steve! Lol I've got 239,000 on my F150 and 160,000 on my mini van
Five minutes of my time I'll never get back
Tell me about. He did this on purpose to make u watch it
I played it at 1.75 speed
Remember this when you're laying in a hospital bed on the last days of your life. Remember how you spent those 5 minutes of your life when just about everything was going smoothly...
Really
You can't make any determination without a crank spinning in it the entire time
Exactly this test his way to non-scientific
Test was for swelling, not wear/how well the oil lubricates
Also it does not take into account heat cycles, cold start to hot and back.
Well put
high mileage has other functions in certain brands like sludge removal and i find it to be slightly better. i dont like pure synthetic it tends to burn up and become thin as well versus conventional, the engine may have been poor but still i think having the more resilient oil will protect your engine better in a daily driver.
We have a 1999 Honda Accord with a 4 cylinder engine, at 75,000 miles I started using Castrol GTX High Mileage 5w-30 oil. The car currently has 365,000 miles and runs great with no leaks. It does use a little oil and we still use it as a daily driver. No problems here.
And if you never used HM oil you still may not have had any issues.
I use GTX HM 15w50 in my Merc M104 engine which are famous for leaking all the way to a million miles.
It drastically reduced the drips on my garage floor compared to the Diesel 15w50 I was running before it, despite the diesel oil being quite a bit thicker (at the thicker end of 50 weight vs thinner end for the GTX)
It’s a Honda.
Holy crap lol hopefully my k24 tsx goes that long!
Это не большой пробег
As the rubber ages it gets hard and stops sealing. High mileage oil is supposed to soften the rubber not expand it. You should only use it on high mileage cars that may have hardened seals
Except some of the swelling agents, DO swell it which is the mechanism behind which some products claim to slow if not stop leaks. Softening by itself, doesn't slow leaks, since you'd still have the same tolerance/measurement difference that allows the oil to seep past.
@@stinkycheese804 The softening allows the oil pressure inside the engine to reseal against leaks. Most modern engines (most anything made after ~1995) don't use the old rubber seals that had hardening issues, anyway...
@@looncraz oil is pretty high tech. They're generally not going to put something in the oil that is completely useless. I think I've even seen bottle of high milage oil "for older vehicles" but don't remember who made it.
Oil swells rubber. It’s why used car salesmen oil down sunroof, t top and targa top seals before showing a car. Temporarily stops the seals leaking and sometimes even hides gouges in the rubber that are visible when it’s dried out. If it’s rubber and it’s shiny it’s got oil on it especially if it’s used. Which oil is irrelevant. It’s not always crooked because it used to be common practice as part of regular maintenance that when you washed and vacuumed the car you wiped all seals (doors, windows, sunroof, etc) with some oil product or other. Can used Marvel Mystery Oil, or Armor All or Vaseline it just needs to be liquid at relatively low temperatures so it’ll soak into the rubber. Even tire shine will do it to some degree.
@@looncraz Whats your opinion about Castrol GTX which is reasonably priced and claims to a have better cleaning effect and my car is 2014. Toyota, Is the cleaning agent then not going to be more detrimental to the seals but for modern oil burning piston problems on most makes these days but better at keeping the rings from clogging up!?
The two seals could have minute differences in the manufacturing process as well.
Yes one was made on a friday! The other was made on monday after superbowl sunday!
How did he get difference in thickness of the ring, but the inner and outer diameters are equal? It’s either a measuring error or minute difference in different parts of the ring.
@@robertt9342 Measuring by hand is not exact. Two hundredths of a millimeter is a tiny difference.
Yep, every manufacturer has tolerances, and one as ratty as Honda has wide tolerances. It’s why 1 will run for close to a quarter million miles and the other 700,000 from the same production run are burning oil by 20,000 miles and rebuilt multiple times by the time they hit 200,000 miles. Shity seals seems like par for the course.
@@308dad8 I assume this is sarcasm? Honda makes more internal combustion engines internationally than anyone period.
You think it got that way by making poor quality products?
Just to be clear you didn't conclude it hurt anything just that it didn't improve anything? I think it's fair to say with 99.9% certainty the testing method simulated absolutely nothing close to a high mileage seal pressed, exposed to pressure and temperature cycled a 1000 times over before they even claim the use of high mileage oil is beneficial. You can't possibly simulate 5 years at 15k miles a year of driving with a coffee pot and heat.
Thank you! said perfectly.
Well. Bc he did the test we can see that this may be the case.
W/o science and theories we have a world full of cavemen
The only thing he was testing was the claim that using high mileage oil in a new engine will cause the seals to swell. This is farm from scientific, but it was never intended to simulate the 5 years at 15k miles per year that mention.
A middle school science project.......at best. No accounting for molecular changes affecting seal elasticity after thousands of hours of friction, heat, and age.
Plus fuel and metal particle additives that naturally occur during engine operations and loads.
Good point!
And no possible friction from moving parts plus there is no stress on these seals.
If yall watched vice grip garage youd know the difference is high mileage just has more dinosaurs.
I was a mechanic for a number of years. I could give five different mechanics the same part and get five different measurements. I would also bet good money that if you shut your eyes and You measured that part 3 times you would get different measurements. Also how are you accurately measuring a rubber seal?
How is it that the ID and OD are identical but the width of the ring is different?
The rubber is flexible, how do you measure it? If you measure it hot it will be larger cold smaller. And the part that I made varied by just rubbing it on your pant leg. The friction heated it up enough to enlarge it. Plus you mention the original mfg. has a range of tolerance. Unless you can measure the durometer of the rubber or degredation caused by the chemicals your test is worthless.
@@sr_spongebob calipers aren't the best tool if you want more accuracy than you see in the video
Love this comment.
I agree with you Chris, CNC machinist here, I have top notch calipers in my hands at least 30 times per day depending on which part I am running. Usually way more, most people can’t even get things squared up properly for a correct measurement.
I've been using Mobil 1 High Mileage in my '04 Honda CR-V that I got with 196K miles. I'm now on 296K miles 3 years later and I had the valve cover gasket changed. The motor looked gorgeous when they had the valve cover off and she still runs like a top. I'd say that 100K miles with it's first leak is darn good for something I drive 175 miles per day on average.
And all I've done to it maintenance-wise are oil changes 3X a year with K&N oil filters and I just took out the K&N air filter to replace it with an OEM type after 100K. I had the plugs changed about 40K miles ago. That's it really.
He must be a mechanic and dont have a vehicle to fix thanks to mobile 1 high millage..😂😂😂😂
High mileage oil has detergents to clean varnish, sludge, and other deposits. Normal synthetic does not. I've switched to high mileage, and after a few thousand miles I've already noticed a difference, I'm getting better engine performance. I used to run normal full synthetic. I have 200k on a 4.6 triton motor, no leaks from the engine.
Same with my 260k miler Tundra.. it ran pretty smooth after I used that hi mile Mobile1
ALL synthetic motor oils contain detergents. All of them.
200k? wow, i have a question, please help me. Is it true that you have to use premium gasoline so that your cars last longer? Or your cars have lasted so long on regular gasoline?
@@kuul-animations2810 NOOOOO. dont do it .. youre just wasting money
@@kuul-animations2810 changing oil regularly IS no secret formula for long mileage
Been using Mobil 1 High Mileage for over 20 years, I use it to the max they claim it can go 10,000
miles, never had any seal failures with this oil, my 2003 liberty has 227,367 miles on it and is as
quiet as can be and I don't drive like an old man either .
How about a grandma?
Thats pretty impressive considering High Mileage oil has not been around for 20 years.
@@overlordp.3758 Yeah, Just like you.
@@avian7999 hahaha..
Never seen a 3.7 get much farther than that
I've been using 5W30 High mileage mobil 1 in my 1991 C1500 with 314,000 miles for a while and the rear main seal seems to have less oil drips from its leaks after using this oil. The rear main seal is the only seal that leaks after I replaced the valve cover gaskets and oil pan gasket. I will continue using it.
Thanks for sharing, in my case it turned out to be the opposite! I had a minor leak on the rear main seal and is now complete gone. I switched to mb1 synthetic high mileage oil about 2 years ago and so far no issues.
Nates wife: *why does my coffee taste so weird today?*
😂😂😂😂😂
Valvoline HM full synthetic has been my choice for many years in all Toyota's I have owned.. Never have had any issues whatsoever. Just sayin.
Those pesky Toyota's
I just changed oil in my 2002 GMC Envoy. 321k. I switched to Valvoline HM synthetic blend around 170k. I just replaced the Variable Valve Solenoid this week. It looked good with no build up. Its started leaking into the connector. That's it. I also use Lucas additive.
That doesn't mean you would have had issues if you never used HM oil.
Your comparing with two new seals. The problem I have with this demo is that when seals go through repeated hot to cold cycles plus age for thousands of miles they change. Moreover, they change in a way that they loose their elasticity to eventually become brittle like a hard plastic. Therfore, the purpose of high mileage is to restore elasticity to seals that have lost it's elasticity and soften [make less brittle] of high milage seals, not intended to be used on new or low milage seals.
However, it seams that what your demo shows that the high mileage oil doesn't damage new low mileage seals. One more thing, the seals that get the most punishment are the valve steam seals, due to the high heat especially the ones on the exhaust valves.
Jose, These seals appear to be made of Viton rubber vs Black Nitrile. Nitrile has that tendency to get brittle early on. Wherever possible, I replace and and all O-Rings and seals to Viton. You pay a premium price for Viton, but it is superior!
The conditioners or additives are not meant to "swell" seals. They condition the seals to remain "youthful" and strong. It's like adding leather cleaner to bucket seats, it simply keeps it "hydrated". Cheap stuff is to be avoided of course. You never know what kind of testing they did.. but anything like Valvoline, GTX - high mileage oil is great stuff.
Except that's what it does, any that claim to reduce leaks. "Youthful" and "strong" read more like marketing gobbledegook, are not engineering terms applicable to oil seal performance. The bottom line is they necessarily have a chemical that change the molecular composition of the seal and if engineers wanted a different molecular composition on a new seal, they would have picked a different seal, or size when it swells them.
Sees two brand new seals in the first 2 seconds.... well theres your problem! High mileage is for worn out crap not new....
This video is about as scientific as the current Covid restrictions. Use any Starburst/API oil that is recommended in your owners manual and change it a 5000k miles. Your engine will last a very long time.
Unless it's the chrysler 4.7 v8, then change every 3,000
I've had good success just alternating my oil changes between High Mileage and regular full synthetic.
You claim that, but my response to your logic is “….yet”. Chemistry is real and full synthetic and blend are not the same.
@@CenobiteBeldar Point out where I used the word "blend". High Mileage oil is also available in full synthetic.
@4:44 I would have used some wire mesh/screen so as to elevate the seals off of the bottom of the coffee pot element/heater. That may possibly cause a bit of direct heat stress and or distortion. Very basic test you did but a great little test. Thanks. 👍
In general, the "high mileage" claims on engine oils are down to differences in base oil selection and antioxidant additives. This is mainly in the pursuit of better varnish protection and fewer deposits so the amount of seal swell agent employed shouldn't change significantly. The experience some people have of synthetics producing leaks still seems to persist - a theory that makes sense is that the higher solvency and improved detergent/dispersant systems employed in premium engine oils clean out deposits and varnish; some of these deposits may have actually been "plugging" seals, so when they are removed you see leaks.
I agree because both oils actually contain seal swelling agents, though the high mileage has a higher level of swelling agents. The varnish being worse with high mileage oil is the only issue for me. I believe the buildup thats cleaned causing leaks isn't as bad as what is often said. Especially when using a good quality synthetic. Thanks for sharing all the great information. I love to learn what others have experienced. Kindness is key.
I think this happened to my engine. I switched from Castrol Edge to M1 HM and then a leak developed. And I can tell the oil does well at cleaning the engine because before the edge would practically look no different from when it was new but the Mobil 1 would get darker rather quickly to the point you can see black flecks on the dipstick.
Most high detergent synthetics will make old engine which was run on dino leak, incl. mine. But once friend's customer decided to change oil him self, bought CT brand 5w-20 synthetic and s..t happened. The car was 2010's Accord with the infamous 2.4L in line 4, and they're known for oil consumption. Anyway, normally the engine run using Honda OEM oil, a used maybe half liter every oil change at 6k miles (10k km), with no leaks. So 2k miles after the DIY oil change the RED Oil Pressure light comes ON, and the engine is dry. I don't know if he didn't tighten the filter, but assume he did. Oil leaked via crank seals since the engine was wet underneath and some of it was probably consumed during the combustion. Since then it consumes 2-2.5L per oil change.
I also had similar situation with CT brand synthetic - the dipstick was bone dry after 1k miles. It leaked mainly via rear main. I added regular bottle of Castrol GTX and Honda OEM and lucky for me it stopped leaking.
Friend of mine used LiquiMoly 5w-40 in his older Odyssey because it controlled the leaks - it went over 300k in our Rust Belt when he sold it to some home improvement guy.
Not all oils are formulated equally.
One thing I would change about your test, is that these seals are usually exposed to the oil while it is hot. heating the oil once and then leaving it for a month doesn't seem like a good simulation. I'm no expert, but it feels like running both at operating temperature for the full month (in a safe environment) would be a better simulation
I thought he was going to heat each of the seals for 24 hours every other day. The seals go through heat cycles every day and vibration also, and I think this test provides very little information.
I agree heating it once proves absolutely nothing
Sounds like the high mileage oil helped the seal expand in order to keep it pressing against the crankshaft in spite of the wear grooves that would occur on it over a long period of time.
You should use old seals instead of brand new seals. Most of us have over 120,000 miles on our vehicles. Find a seal with a lot of miles on it.
he is trying to see if it hurts new cars
I have 1974 and 1992 Toyota pickups and both have had Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 for 24 years. Neither has had any engine oil leaks.
Been using Castro’s High Mileage for years............... WHAT?????? No probs!!! Oil stays cleaner longer if nothing else!
Right on Brother👍👍
Castrol guy here also
Is that a new Cuban oil?
FARMERS INSURANCE AD - - Man says he left a coffee pot "on" all weekend in his garage - - filled with motor oil . . . . .
"We know a thing or two because we've seen a thing or two," . . . . . .
I always thought high mileage oils affected wear properties over swelling seals. Still will add this to my tool box. Great video.
This video is based on a fact from the 70s 80s era when high mileage oils first came out the chemicals used back then were incompatible with the rubber used back then it would cause them to swell dramatically and fail. This was noted and todays today they have corrected the compatibility of the oil and seals highmilage oil isn't really meant for seals it's meant to seal and protect the wear of the metal on metal wear that happens over time helping to keep the tolerances tight. Also if a seal cracks from drying out no stop leak in the world will fix it
It literally says to prevent leaks
@@stevofla239 prevent, not fix
I used Mobil 1 high mileage on an 87 Nissan pick up after the first 100k miles of use. Had the truck for 30 years till 2017 and 400k miles. Never had any sealed problems, or had to do any internal work on the engine the entire time. Have never had any vehicle, or engine, last that long trouble free. Will continue to use Mobile 1 extended mileage oil in my current vehicle, a 2012 Ford transit connect.
Appears no one can read directions, it tells you in the directions not to use high mileage before 60000 miles duha!!!!
1988 GMC 1/2 ton truck w/Throttle Body 350 - over 369k miles.
253K miles running M1 10W-30 HM - No issues - No Oil Leaks - 6K mile OCI - used about 1/4qt between OCI.
Oil Myths - are a dime a dozen these days! CAFE falls into this same category
Ive never had ant issue with using high milage oil in my high milage vehicles. As a matter of fact I had a 2002 Avalanche I bought when it was only 6 months old. I always used Mobil 1 synthetic in it and when it got to 75,000 I started using high milage Mobil 1 synthetic and I had that truck for 12 years and put 189,000 miles on it. When I traded it in it ran just as good then as it did when it was brand new and it also never burnt a drop of oil or leaked. So yeah this video isnt true.
Hoy cambie el haceite, tengo 78,000 millas, y le heche mobil1 hi millage y filtro mobil 1.
I used high mileage in my old Pontiac engine that had no leaks what so ever and within a week my rear seal started leaking. Leaked so much and so fast that I had to park it within a month because it was throwing oil onto the exhaust and smoking to bad. I used Pennzoil High Mileage with the cleaners they put in it.
That's the problem. The gunk was holding it all together.😅
@@FlyingHighInAC that's exactly what I was thinking! Gunked up any holes or around the seals...😂
@@FlyingHighInAC . It might be more of an issue with pennzoil synthetic and not because of high mileage, I had the same experience using pennzoil on a 2000 Honda civic and a 98 Toyota camry, the civic was just leaking a little before I used pennzoil but the camry wasn't even leaking, it could be that pennzoil has more detergents that's why is rated higher than most synthetics, I rather just stay away from it. But the fact remains if you keep up with your oil changes, you will be OK with just regular synthetic I used the supertech high mileage on a 2008 Toyota corolla that I bought a year ago, car didn't have leaks when I bought it at 125 thousand miles is now at 165 thousand miles because I use it for my food delivery job and what impresses me the most that it did have an oil consumption issue of about 12 Oz. In between oil changes and I have always changed the oil every 5 thousand miles with high mileage supertech synthetic from Walmart and I just noticed that in the last 2 oil changes the level of the oil never went down, the little bit of oil consumption stopped completely and I believe it happened because I've done the oil changes in timely manner the oil still looks pretty clean after 5 thousand miles, this car only had one previous owner when I bought it and he did take care of it but I'm doing even better myself. But i I might just start using the supertech synthetic which is the new advanced full synthetic from supertech because my concern with high mileage oils is that the seal additives can rejuvenate the seals, that sounds good but if it swells up the seals that could be bad too. That's why the most important thing is change the oil at the proper intervals clean oil won't dry up the seals.
I understand that there was a problem decades ago but not now.
Best advice I can give car owners is to replace engine oil/filter at proper intervals, and to KEEP ENGINE AND ENGINE BAY CLEAN AT ALL TIMES. You will be amazed at how much money on parts and service you will save by keeping those items CLEAN. And it only takes a few minutes of your time BEFORE you wash and polish your vehicle. As a mechanic for over 40 years, I have seen many a beautiful car with stacks of problems because they never CLEAN THE ENGINE AND ENGINE COMPARTMENT. Also, pressure wash your FRONT and REAR braking systems before you wash/shine rest of vehicle. I guarantee those extra 30 minutes or so of work you put into your car will greatly extend the life of your car as well as your enjoyment of it.
Very interesting advice.
If you don't mind, can you explain how to clean the engine and engine bay??
Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise! 👍🏻
So many good points about the poor test. Besides the seals would not even be submerged but only one side of the actual lip seal. If the lip was worn swelling would restore the seal to some degree.
You should Do this test with old hardened Ring seals
Well,
I own a 2007 Kia Sportage V6 LX since new,
At 75,000 miles started to use Pennzoil high mileage full synthetic 10-30, Florida USA..... now after 227,000 no leaks whatsoever, no smoke and purring as a young Cat......I am happy 😁
First of all, I've never heard that High mileage oils damage engines, nor have I heard of the Mfg's suggesting it n new engines. Also why use it in a new engine? When consulting a manufacturer regarding the difference, they tell us the HM Oils have more detergents in them, not necessarily "seal swelling agents". Now, for real life? I used Pennzoil High Mileage in a 1994 Ford E-350 460 CID Motorhome beginning around 100K miles, that engine lasted to 324K, then I changed it because it started having problems pulling mountains.
Been using Synthetic High mileage oil for the 12 years on my 2009 Mazda 6 without any problems, i change it every 4000 miles!!!
Been a mechanic 25 years. If you change your oil every 4 to 5000 miles you can use any darn oil you wanna. I've used walmart oil for years. All my vehicles have 300k plus miles on them.
I use Super Tech synthetic and just got back an oil analysis yesterday. The results show very low levels of metals that would indicate wear. No reason to use anything else I change the oil every 5,000 miles but I change the filter every 10,000 using a Fram Ultra filter rated for 20,000 miles.
@@masterofnone1808 I hear ya. Your better off getting the cheap fram and replacing it every oil change instead. That's my honest opinion. The new oil is going to pick up contaminants from used oil filter. Just get the cheaper one at half the price every oil change.
@@masterofnone1808 you'll notice your oil is already discolored right after a change with a used oil filter. I wouldnt do that. Buy a cheap one every oil change. Your way better off.
@@MrSocko-vn7fw
I have a cartridge filter and when I change my oil even though I don't always change the filter, I still drain the old oil out of the oil filter housing.
Total insolubles on my oil analysis was only 0.2 ppm indicating that the filter was still doing it's job.
Seal swelling is a misnomer and has been used to condemn the use of high-mileage oils. Seal conditioners do no more and no less than to maintain the plasticizers that keep rubber and plastics from hardening. All rubber and plastics contain them and there is some beneficial effects from replenishing them.
Why would anyone use high mileage oil in a low mileage vehicle?
I guess some people think 50000 miles is "high mileage"
@@ME262MKI Maybe, I started using it a few years ago in my 200,000 mile 2009 Corolla. Now at almost 300,000 I can say the oil consumption is less than it was prior.
Most people who use high mileage in newer car is probably because of the belief that they put in stronger/more cleaning agents so it will keep your engine cleaner than regular oil. Some oils it's true some not.
@@protocolkey Minimal research would tell them that these oils have additives to cause seals and gaskets to swell. A foolish thing to do in a new engine.
Why would anyone use high mileage oil period. It's mostly a marketing gimmick.
I have 2 Dodge Caravans. One has a 3.6L and the other has a 3.8L. The 3.6L has never had any high mileage oil used in it. I always used Valvoline 5w30 full synthetic oil. There are 245K miles on this vehicle. It doesn't use any oil between changes at 5,000 miles. The 3.8L has had Valvoline 5w20 semi synthetic high mileage oil since it had 75K miles on it. It had 208K miles on it when I bought it. It was using 1 qt every 500 miles. After changing out the original PCV valve and cleaning up the oil return piston rings, it now uses 1 qt every 5,000 miles. I'll stay with my regular full synthetic oil and see how long that 3.6L lasts. I changed the 3.8L to the same oil as the 3.6L and I believe the increase in viscosity has been part of the lower oil consumption in that engine.
Good effort. Other factors hard to demonstrate are the results of hot cold cycles and extremes. Some places go -20F or lower. Plus pressures and rotating shaft dynamics. Too hard to replicate real world processes. Throw in OCI which varies with owners. Basically at the mercy of producers claims.
Since I purchased my Hyundai Elantra in 2002, I have always used STP 15W-40 Diesel Engine Oil and filter which I change every 8-10K miles depending on season of year. It's very hot here in Florida during summer days. As of last oil filter change on 7/3/2021, I still have to find an oil leak ANYWHERE on the engine! There are no lifter noises or knocking noises from the engine either. It drives strong and get 18-20mpg.
Same goes with the automatic transmission fluid, which I change COMPLETELY every January of every year. Never had to touch any internal parts or change gaskets/seals.
Changed timing belt in 2004 with quality belt and have never touched it again. Still have original starter, alternator, brake master cylinder. Replaced passenger cv-shaft once due to broken boots, 1 radiator and hoses, 1 battery, rear brake shoes and front pads 2x, front rotors 1x.
And don't assume I pussyfoot my car while driving because I drive it hard every day.
@Prime Artemis
You got it! Happy motoring.
Love m1 high mileage. Stopped my truck from burning oil 🤘🏼.
That's great and it's definitely beneficial.
Guess I should try it. My car has 150k and has been burning oil for about 3 or 4 years now. Also puff blue smoke on cold start up. Been using regular oil all its life.
@Jon Doe thanks, I’ll give it a whirl
I love M1 too, it clean my 240k ml engine and keep running without burning oil and no oil leaks..
How do you know that?
I've put over 200,000 miles on a few cars and never had oil leaks or oil burning issues.
Just had a rear main seal replaced on a newly rebuilt 305. The engine only has 15,000 miles on it and it was leaking like no one's business. Oil used was 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum, it was change at or before every 3,000 miles. I have learned at least with GM products not to use a full synthetic oil. Every one I've had now or high mileage leaks with synthetic. The Ford trucks we have at work use a semi syn and do not leak. So I went with original yellow bottle Pennzoil 5w-30. Thought that was conventional oil but, to my surprise when I got on their website I discovered it was semi syn. I'll give it time but, if it starts to leak as before I'm going with the High mileage version of their oil.
You need to have a shaft running they that seal creating friction to get an accurate test
What happens after using the High Mileage oil then going back to regular oil?
After an oil change I make sure to drink the rest in the 5 quart to make sure I get the full benefit of the Synthetic oil
How OFTEN is recommend to change the oil on Toy. Corolla 2012 please? Synthetic oil. I get different answers frm each mechanic ..
Would be cool to see the same test but with a very old used seal, maybe the HM rehydrates/reconditions an old seal rather than have some additive to swell any seal. Maybe an old seal you can cut in half and test each half. Then there is the argument about what will happen if you use HM oil then later switch back to a regular oil without the swelling additives. Will the old seal half treated in HM oil shrink back down and cause leaks to return right away or will the conditioning treatment in the seal last over time.
I have used high mileage oils only AFTER I had a small leak at the seal. It softens the seals, doesn’t “expand” then. Stopped my minor leak on an engine with 154k miles. That is my experience. Now for how long? We’ll see.
Thanks for the video but i believe it would take more time for seals to swell when using high mileage oil
I had a 2007 Lucerne with a Northstar 4.6 L v8. Tried Mobil 1 High Mileage oil at 52 k miles. By 60 k miles the main block seal was leaking. Dealer tried tightening block bolts, still leaked. Buick covered 90% of the cost to split the block and reseal. Northstar 4.6 L v8 had a two part block that used a caulk like material to seal it. Will NEVER again use High Mileage oil! I use full synthetic oil on all my cars. Don't want to ever have oil leakage issues again.
If you're not a mechanic, do not own a Northstar. See: The Car Wizard.
The North Star engine was one of the worst engines produced. The famous North Star engine leak usually starts around 65,000 to 70,000 MI.
I'm also on the idea that "High Mileage" oil has more a conditioning additive then an expansion additive.
That is the same oil I use in my 1995 Chevy C1500.I NEVER had one issue with that oil. In fact when I switched to that oil, after about 200 miles, the truck idled smoother.
Kills me how many TH-camrs (Scotty Kilmer being one of them) post a title to a video that isn't accurate to the content. Quit wasting our time, especially if you expect a like or is you want me to subscribe!
I assumed it softens the older seal. I know the Blue Dragon stopped a Power Steering leak in my 2007 CIVIC with 180,000.
I have a tube of Dow Corning 55 o-ring lube that says it soften o-ring slightly. I made the mistake of using it on my Moen kitchen faucet rebuild. In a week, you could not budge the spigot. I popped it apart. When, I pull the spigot up, a o-ring fell out. It had swelled so big, it thru me to were came from.
You don't want that going on with that Mobile 1 high mileage. Little soften might prolong things.
I been adding one quart of it to my regular change of Mobile 1 to the old Civic. Haven't noticed much change. It has a few leaks. Not so bad it drips. But no change. I have replaced the valve cover gasket. The power steering leak is back after 30,000k. It's actually looks like it's coming from the pump. Rebuilt time . Seals are $43 from Honda.
What if?
The oil n filter get changed on a regular basis? Would this keep your head from swelling up 2 thousands of an inch?
What you didn't check is how hot the oil pan is getting with both oils . High mileage promises to keep the engine cooler at idle
I think that you completely bought the test you're using brand new seals high mileage oil is to condition old seals so if you wanted to do the test correctly you should have taken two old seals and did the test with the two old seals and see if they swelled up because brand new seals can't swell up anymore because they haven't been worn out
At 205 worked for me. Remember to do an oil change and add it. I tried a lot of things ... the only thing that worked for me was At205
That stuff is amazing!! I had a power steering rack leak for about a year, it was just pouring out. As soon as I added AT 205 reseal it stopped completely. And it is still holding up 5 months later without adding a drop of power steering fluid. Truly remarkable
AT205 is awesome but I can’t find the stuff anywhere. It’s been weeks!
I've been using Mobil 1 HM after a Corolla forum swore it would help with the sludge problems these engines have. I believe it does clean the engine well but shortly after I have been using it a leak developed. I've been driving with this leak for well over a year now. I put about a quart of oil in it and can last about a month if I don't rev too high. I noticed it doesn't leak below a certain level so my guess the leak is somewhere well above. Before this oil I used to use Castrol Edge and never had any leaks. And I used it for years. But it's not great at removing carbon buildup. I want to try to use atp205 and see if my leak will stop. I have no idea where my leak is and really rather spend $12 on the ATP before having to possibly do a main seal or wherever it may be?
I did AT205 .. it worked for me ... I did lucas oil and nothing ...
You have a leak, because you have a leak. Oil doesn't cause leaks, it doesn't stop leaks. Certain additives can extend the life of seals, but everything wears out. The most common leaks early on are from the valve cover and the oil pan. Of you have a remote oil cooler, those lines eventually swell and leak. If it's rubber, it will need replacement. Sludge is dangerous because it can build up and cause oil starvation issues. Synthetic oil doesn't sludge, and it can even clean sludge out over time. Any leaks that developed, aren't from the oil, they were there already.
I can see a o-ring possibly swelling, but not a seal. High mileage oils have conditioners that attempt to restore pliability.
My last car had 20Tmiles oil change intervals (35Tkm) no problem at all, sold it to a friend after a few years and he still talks to me.
You forgot the crankshaft spinning inside the seal & hot and cold cycles during warm up and cool down.
Use two coffee pots or a dual heater and rotate the pots at regular intervals.
Yea
I USED high miles oil to my 6,000 miles car so this video is good enough for no issues for using high miles oil
I'm surprised. But on second thought, those mail seals have a spring inside to keep them tight. Still, the thickness test should show a difference. Maybe Patrick is right... the seal conditioners don't expand the seals, but they do keep the rubber pliable.
my 2003 LS1 engine in my corvette needs the older design additive package in the high milage oil, more modern valve trains are less severe and use use a completely different anti wear additive package . This test ignores the main reason for me to run the high mileage oil, but it did ease my concerns about the seal conditioners, since my seals don't leak.
And your vehicles will last longer by not taking them to Jiffy lube type places. Regular Do it yourself oil changes make vehicles last longer
One time my wife took her car to one of those places and the idiots only put the drain plug on finger tight. After a couple days later she said the car was making a ticking sound,that's when I discovered it. Most of the oil had leaked out of the drain. Lucky we caught it before the engine blew. NEVER AGAIN,I change the oil now in all of our vehicles.
@@backyardbuck6362 close call for sure! Glad you caught it in time. My Pops had his oil changed once, and the drain plug fell out on the way home 😂🤣 he was pissed!
I have a 2016 Fusion 1.5ltr ecoboost with 170,000 miles. I've used Penzoil Full Synthetic from day one. I switched to the high mileage around 80,000 miles. I have zero oil consumption or leaks ! That's my experience!!
Been using Mobile 1 High Mileage for a few years on a car that has about 295K miles and the only leak I've observed is from the oil pan, which is normal for the car I own. Will consider using regular 5W-30 for my next oil change after watching this video. Thank you for sharing your work and results.
Any updates on the change if you made it? I used high mileage oil for the first time a few months ago and consider switching back to normal as well.
No perceived difference so far. Will be trying the regular oil from Fram and a Wix oil filter next oil change.
Been using Mobil One Hi Milage for years. No problems in my cars or trucks or SUVs.
I did a little research a long time ago with the ingredients and found that high milage is oil is better because it falls under older manufacturing rules which allows it to contain more lead which acts as a lubricant. New synthetic oils have too much detergents. High milage may cause welling but that in my opinion is better than degrading a seal due to detergents.
I've taken 1,000 engines apart. I always ask my customers what oil they used. I have learned alot in the past 40 years. Each oil does different things.
Bitron, if you can find it, will polish a valve guide.
If a customer says his car smokes at start up and while driving I recommend using a high mileage oil. Sometimes after two oil changes it will either quit or persist.
Lucas makes great products. I have enough stories about oil and additives to fill a book.
i have a 2000 chevy silverado with 310k miles. Just switched to high mileage oil and the leaks got worse and now the check engine oil pressure light came on. Could the change have caused that and should I go back to the regular oil? Or can putting a Stop Leak help the situation?
@@robtempe use Lucas engine treatment. That's unusual for that to happen with a high mileage oil.
Make sure too you did not over fill the crank case with oil.
A 10- 30w is more likely to leak than a 10-40w.
Use the Lucas non synthetic. It's not a cure all.
Most likely you have worn valve guide seals.
It is possible to pull valve covers take the springs off and replace the seals without pulling the heads.
Very very very well done. This is the best and most accurate and time consuming project I’ve ever seen on any automotive testing!
Its says on the bottle. Follow manufacturers maintenance schedule.
There is so much much more going on in a running engine. Crankcase pressure, contaminants, fuel dilution, simple ageing (heat & oxidisation)
I really don't think this test has any relevance to reality.
Nice try though.
Yup! I agree.
The labels on the oils were different cosmetically but both oils said "extended performance". Did anyone else notice that?
Yes but one did say "High Mileage".
Got 434k on my engine just by proper oil changes of 4000k and always use good grade oil and quality oil filter no fram.
I had a 70 ford Econoline with over 500k miles on it. Gas hog but never used any oil. Had a few leaks in the oil pan and outer seal, but hardly anything and used whatever oil was on sale with Fram filters, but always changed the oil at 3000 miles. Change your oil at 3-5k and you will be fine.
Synthetic oils can go 10,000 or one year. Whichever comes first. Also fram filters are one of the worst. Check on youtube for filter tests, wix seems to be one of the best. But a few others are really good and the top filters.
Good video Nate👍I did not think anything would change as well. There is so much hype on the internet.. I believe in early oil changes. I never go over 3500 miles on a oil change.. as of lately I've been changing it between 1,500 to 1,700 miles. I change it myself so it doesn't cost much.. however I always use very good quality motor oils. My oil is Crystal clear when I change it. I am a fanatic when it comes to maintenance.
I've been using Mobil 1 high mileage extended performance full synthetic in my vehicles for years. My 2008 Honda Accord and my 2003 Dodge Neon SRT-4 both have 220k miles on them and my Pontiac Solstice GXP has over 100k, they all run fine. The Honda and Dodge burn or leak a bit of oil (as to be expected with over 200k miles and being 15-20 years old), i have to add half a qt every 1000 miles or so. I change the oil between 6000-7000 miles. My main factors are the service reminders coming on, and if the oil is starting to look dark/dirty. I always change the filter when changing the oil, and periodically check the oil level and top it off.
I worked for shell oil back in the late 70's and they tested all the oils and concluded that Sears had the superior oil.
And nothing has changed in 50+ years.
Good to see the seels did not swell . The mobile high milage seems good
Yes I was surprised and I have had good experiences when using that oil.
Please we waiting for comparison between liqui moly molygen 5w-30 vs amzoil Signature series 5w-30
Understood thank you for not giving up on me. I had a few issues ordering testing supplies.
That amzoil is good stuff
I only use amsoil SS in my J series V6. I change it every 4-5K and I never burn any oil.
Amzoil invented synthetic oil.l use in my Harley's
I'm not really sure if you're speaking about a high mileage formulation for older engines with high mileage on them because you're showing an extended drain service interval oil.
This is precisely what high-mileage oil is for, it has additives that make the seals expand and thus avoid the leaks of an engine with many miles traveled, so it is perfectly normal for a seal that works in a high-mileage oil is bigger.
I've read hundreds of reviews from people with seal leaks who used M1 HM and Valvoline Max Life with excellent feedback and you say not to use it?
Few years back I changed my oil to Mobil One high mileage in a 2000 Taurus with the 3.0 base engine (pushrod motor). It had well over 100k on it and had previously been run on non synthetic non high mileage regular oil. Immediately upon starting the motor the lifters sounded like they were being ground to bits. It showed oil pressure so I let it run for maybe 3 or 4 minutes. Noise didn't stop and when I pulled the dipstick out there was smoke coming out of the tube. Pulled the cap and smoke there also. changed back to regular oil and everything immediately went back to normal.
The High Milage oil does not swell the seal it softens it using polymers.