Meanwhile at G&G HQ, Mark is tired, bleeding, and surrounded by the corpses of blown up 4 cylinder engines. As if there's not enough teardowns happening there, both bens are tearing down engines somewhere else too. Burning with righteous indignation, he LS swaps everything in sight. Ben's Civic is now unlimited because it makes like 500 whp. And the Eclipse is actually a good car now.
Actually, this is proof that the products you use also matters. Synthetic oil is MUCH better than conventional oil. Synthetic oil also happens to be more expensive and most people will get conventional for that exact reason. It's better to spend the extra money to get the better product and this video shows why.
I would of loved a third test vehicle running conventional oil for 5,000 miles instead of 10,000 miles. I would never run conventional oil for that long because it breaks down much quicker 😅
@Brandon-uy1uv I agree, I work at a shop and most people only go 5,000 miles between oil changes using synthetic blend. I'm pretty sure an engine with oil changes every 5,000, using conventional would have been close to what the full synthetic one looked like. The varnish on engine is mainly from oil deteriorating and breaking down. It becomes acidic and starts corroding parts. But it would have been awesome to see a third variable.
@@JDubSTSynthetic is definitely better but some engines like my Jeep 4.0 don’t like them. I tried using Amsoil synthetic I started burning oil and knocking. She’s much quieter on conventional 10w-40 now
@@waterloo123100 This is where your previous buildup and wear matters. Part of what makes synthetic 'better' than conventional oils is its uniformity of oil molecule size and generally higher detergent levels. If your Jeep was using conventional most of its life and switched to conventional the issues can come from the uniform oil molecule size getting past the oil control rings more regularly than the conventional irregular sizing hence burning more oil. Additionally the higher detergent or cleaning power of the synthetic breaks down carbon and acid related buildup which can open up gaps where wear patterns have developed. These two reasons are why it's not advisable to switch to synthetic after a long period of conventional.
@@wellyeah4690 Over in the rest of the world, we debate 5,000, 8,000 and 10,000 km for mineral, semi and fully syn. I personally go for 10,000 km which divided by 2 plus 10% is about 6000 miles. Been using a 15w-40 API-SM mineral oil in my small 1.5L Honda for the past 200,000 km now without engine issues. Doesn't even burn oil and next month it'll be hitting 400,000 km on the odo. I plan on asking for a valve adjustment at the workshop for this milestone on top of the regular maintenance. And take a look see if there's any significant varnishing.
@@tempeleng "km" ewwww lol nah but really even 6000 is a bit much, it may have to do with the amount of contamination in the air and other factors but most (responsible vehicle owners) don't exceed 5 mayyyybe 6000 miles on synthetic oil, regular conventional is 3000, crazy story I had a lady come into my shop and confused her transmission fluid with her regular engine oil and had not changed the engine oil in over 30,000 miles 😭
@@wellyeah4690 yea i've been debating 8000 km changes. but no one else keeps tabs on the mileage of the 5 different cars/vans at home so i made it simple. every 10k on the odo for oil, multiple of 30k for gear or cvtf, multiple 50k for diff and aircond compressor, multiple 100k for brakes and radiator. brake pads when it squeals. if anyone overshot the odometer the interval after that still comes on a 10k odo since i refuse to keep track of everything. that's life when you have sisters driving used cars. that 30,000 mile though. must have been like toffee inside the engine.
It shouldn't be. That's why you have an air filter. How would dust and dirt get in your oil pan??? Like the other guy said cold starts are the big killer.
@@JViello Filters don't trap 100% of the particles that pass through your intake, everything can basically break down till it's small enough to pass through. Tiny particles of basically everything.
They ran these for years and wanted to emulate how a typical driver uses their engine. At the minimum they had to cold start it once a day, but I imagine they cycled them from hot to ambient temp a few times every day. @@gixxingthecommute3410
Thank you Valvoline for putting this much money and time into testing and showing us. It's not really marketing. It's their conventional product vs their synthetic product. So it's just testing and wasn't cheap.
@@mikuspalmis They don't have to spend the effort and $$$ to show us their internal testing. I know marketing people read these comments. This testing is tedious and expensive some TH-camr isn't going to do it.
Lots of comments complaining, but it was fun to watch and informative aswell. There is a need for ads and sponsorships but this way I don't mind them at all 👍
My only complaint is a lack of testing to simulate cold weather short-trips. That kind of test can expose a lot of bad aspects of cheaper synthetic oils. Especially in GDI engines.
@@hochhaul and that can be another video. They can’t get it all together all in one test I’m sure if you look around on TH-cam you might be able to find one.
@user-vh9hs4qe7r No it's an aspect of oil performance that is frequently overlooked or intentionally left out because oil companies and manufacturers know it's a major issue.
Valvoline vs Valvoline. Std conventional (do they mean mineral? Or they dont know what they have in it?) vs Synthetic. WHO would have guessed Synthetic is better 😅 and who runs mineral on a turbo engine 😂😂😂 only a f00l
This is great. I still can't get myself to go 10,000 miles on a oil change and I don't think I ever will. 5 to 6 thousand is what I usually do with full synthetic.
I read a response from an engineer(on Reddit so take that for what you will) and it's how to calculate intervals. Intervals should be based on gallons of fuel consumed and oil capacity since combustion byproducts are what degrade oils. It's as follows: 1) look up vehicles oil capacity and multiply number by 50 2) this number is the number of gallons of fuel you can consume before requiring an oil change 3) convert this number to miles based on your vehicle's gas mileage average. Simple calculation that I've used and is highly recommended by various "experts" on car forums.
@@lobbyrobby I thought so as well. For me it kind of put a reasoning behind when and why we change engine oil so frequently vs trans or diffs. Makes sense as to why there are detergents in engine oil and not in other lubricants. It's the byproducts of combustion. Prior to reading that equation I never really considered some of that, and having a formula based solely on combustion byproduct entering the oil makes really good sense to me. Also happens to align perfectly with my previous notions, kind of like you.
@@timlong1462 yeah it's good to see my intervals make sense. To me driving habits and conditions should also play a part tho too. Most of my miles are highway miles. If they were mostly city miles (stop and go all day) I'd probably change it more often. Or say towing miles.
some people complaining its a 15 min Ad are wrong. it's an interesting video comparing conventionnal to synthetic oil. it could have been any other brand of oil. the test is not telling you ohh valvoline is so much better than any other. its comparing valvoline synthetic vs valvoline conventionnal The result are what i expected.. a lot more varnish and build up with conventionnal oil.
The test vehicles are Explorer engines.. I truly don’t care what oil is used, they’re shit platforms to start. 😂 maybe a coyote engine would have been, cooler.. still ford, and more enthusiasts would be enthusiastic about that power plant than this. Also, they should have had the star mechanic, Mike, be there. He would probably more geeked and enthusiastic than these two boring bens
@@Tallnerdyguy these companies can afford those costs.. theyre not poor like us cats..even 200,000 km would be just as fine, not necessary to reach 800,000km
I got my previous 4 cars with between 22,000 and 24,000 miles. Used only full sythetic oil and changes every 5,000 miles. All four reached o er 300,000 before I replaced them. Only maintenance was an alternator on one, the serpentine belts, and injector replacement on one. My current car I got with 22,500 miles, and currently it has 240,000 miles. Oil changes every 7,000, full synthetic oil, and it's still going strong. I do not buy the bargain oil.
Thank you, Team Valvoline for documenting this testing result! I like to run my vehicles a long time. I discontinued conventional oil for full synthetic a couple years ago and will now run nothing else except full synthetic.
@@ExecuteBrandonthere is a pretty good chunk of a difference as far as how the oils differ from each other. In the long run the conventional oil engine would have more problems done the road causing the engine to eventually fail much FASTER THAN THE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL . Bottom line is run full synthetic oil.
@@ExecuteBrandonhis statement is supported by the video, especially in the last quarter. Lets just compare: 7 cold stuck oilrings on the pistons for conventional oil VS 1 on synthetic oil. 300k mile Turbo with heavy wear and build-up VS a worn turbo with little build up after 500k miles. Just those two are already enough to prove his point. The cold stuck rings will fail eventually, having seven of them now is a guarantee that one will get hot stuck soon. the Turbo will also fail soon meaning a third replacement for the conventional while the synthetic looks like it could go another 100k miles before replacement, but even if it fails in the next 10 you would still only be on the second while the other remains on course to hit the third in not to many more miles. The tensioner of the chain getting stuck out of position will also increase the wear and reduce the economy of the engine. So it will cost you double in the long run. It might have helped if they had actually measured fuel consumption, which should be easy in such a test. The conventional oil engine certainly uses a bit more fuel now than the synthetic oil one simply due to the slack in the chain, the higher levels of carbon build-up and the number of stuck oil rings. While you are correct that both oils kept the engines in decent condition, it can also be said that the "extended range premium synthetic oil" did live up to its name and despite the higher costs per oil change youd safe more money in the long run. Ofcourse if you change cars every 100k miles the story would be different and the cheaper conventional oil would not cause you any aditional costs at such a milage, at least judging from what we saw in this test.
Considering Ford would recommend synthetic oils in the first place, to have run conventional oil 10,000 miles on these is crazy. I'd wager the varnish would be significantly less with 5,000 mile oil changes.
Yeah I was wondering if more frequent oil changes with conventional would help. But I imagine this is representative of the general public so makes for a realistic test in my mind.
I'm 53 and have run a competitor's brand (starts with the letter M) full-synthetic for 32 years in everything I've owned; cars, pickups, SUVs and sportbikes. After drag racing old-school air/oil-cooled GSXRs in the '90s I became a huge believer in synthetic oil and how well it protects parts from wear.
This truly is one of the best automotive tests I've seen on youtube! Thank you for paying for two SUVs to run every day for 4 years, that is crazy. I've already been sold on full synthetic, but I do wonder now if I should pay premium prices for premium brands of synthetic oil vs the generic off the shelf stuff, and if the additives that make premium oils more fancy even matter if I'm changing oil every 3k miles, not 10k. Over the course of 500k mi, changing every 3k with $45 oil vs $25 oil makes a huge difference in maintenance cost but I think this here proves that even the worst oil (conventional) can still get the engine (mostly) to the same mileage.
Keep in mind these engines got zero hot/cold cycles and just ran and ran. It is hot/cold cycling that really kills engines, so we shouldn't be surprised by the longevity of these motors.
Love that Valvoline gave you guys the opportunity to show us the differences between the two oil types. Given it’s just their brand but still very cool to see what differences they had! Good to know I’ll still be running their 5w40 full synthetic in my 2004 STi.
I read a breakdown from a testing facility on e320 diesel engines. They said that 5w40 had significantly less wear than 5w30 or thinner. It's just not worth the mpg to go lighter if it costs you in engine life. That's assuming you plan to own the car for hundreds of thousands of miles.
I'd be interested in seeing conventional at a 3-5k mile oil change interval vs the synthetic at 10k mile. Currently running Restore and Protect in my 200k mile GX470 so it's cool to see a glimpse into the engineering and testing side as it highlights where that extra cost of Valvoline actually gets spent.
Valvoline wouldn't advertise that because they don't want people realizing that 5k is better - I'd wager 5k conventional blows 10k synthetic out of the park, and neither of the engines would have noticeable issues vs the samples in the video. If they explicitly showed 5k vs 10k, they would be shooting their own marketing saying 10/15k is good in the foot. Also, regardless of if they want to or not, the rest of the auto industry is pushing for 10k changes on newer cars. If they went against the grain, people might think their oil is less reliable and buy oil from other manufacturers that say 10k is kosher.
@@SmurfHunter Valvoline would definitely prefer you change your oil every 5k miles because then they sell you twice as much oil. If they didnt think any oil could last 10k they would be showing that any chance they had.
@@SmurfHunter So Valvoline don't want people to buy their product more...? If 5K is worth it, they want you to do that, but a company with integrity won't say - You HAVE TO change at 5K - If 10K works just fine for the regular consumer. If you change every 5K that's just good business for them or any other manufacturer. Your logic here is very flawed.
@@SmurfHunter it's crazy how engineers can spend decades developing better materials for better reliability and less maintenance and people somehow still act like it's some elaborate scam
I've always used Mobil 5W-30 Fully synthetic on my Turbo RS, 2 services ago, Mobil was not available anymore in my country and only Vavoline. I was abit hesitant to use this brand, but at the end I did. Same viscosity Vavoline Fully Synthetic. I am glad I did after watching this Video. I guess regardless of the brand, Fully synthetic is the oil that will protect the moving parts better than conventional oil. I had no choice but to use Fully synthetic as recommended by my car manufacturer for this engine. Thank you so much for the video, cleared a lot of doubts. Cheers
Supertech OCI every 3 to 4k miles is all the average driver ever would need ! My 94 chevy s10 with an unrebuilt 2.2 has 663,000 miles on her ! 130 oil changes ! Runs great !
Never have I watched a video with such a detailed comparison study between the regular mineral and synthetic oil usage. Very good work and educative. Thanks for sharing 😊
While this is an ad, it’s very easy to not watch the video if it doesn’t interest you. These are free videos. Complaining makes zero sense. Also, Valvoline has sponsored motor sports for a very long time and have stood behind some cool projects.
I really don't see this as an ad. They could literally use any other brand and the results would be the same. It's just Valvoline in this video because well... They happen to be the sponsor for G&G.
Valvoline full synthetic 5w-30 has been my go-to oil in the 4 years since my short block replacement. After running VR1 during the break-in period, of course. Thank you, G&G; and thank you, Valvoline!
synthetic oil starts of as conventional. synthetic oil is just slightly cleaned up conventional, with some 'special' additives added. Brand name conventional is probably better than Walmart 'full-synthetic'. What people should really be learning about is the additive packages they use. I wanna know how much ethyl-trimethyl-diketone-poly-crazyshitttoxicAF is in my oils... i made that chemical up BTW
@@skirkland1980 it does. They don’t make synthetic oil from scratch. Even Mobil 1 full synthetic came out of the ground. Now Mobil does refine the oil further, removing impurities, and adding advanced additives they’ve spent millions developing (you should see Mobil’s patents). No company, not even royal purple or redline make any of it from scratch. “Synthetic” is a marketing tactic that was brilliant, and totally misleading.
I am still so damn impressed the ford motors and turbos lasted 500,000 miles. Preventative maintenance is really something it seems many people ignore and why I know many that swear by buying new to ensure it is done
So conventional oil is actually amazing. I’ve never heard of 10,000 mile oil change intervals using conventional oil. Shocking it held up for a whopping 500,000 miles!! 🤯🤯
You have to give Valveoline credit. Not a cheep test. And the results were telling. How many other engine oil producers did something like this? Excellent video.
@@brucedale4465 yes they can... also they are testing the oil so it would be best if they use a car that runs middle of the pack for reliability. If they choose a car that has low reliability like a range rover, it is more likely the manufacturer is the reason the car broke down. Whereas if you use a top reliability vehicle, the test will go on for ages
It would’ve been nice to get a compression and leak down test on both motors as well as an oil analysis. I can’t imagine what the viscosity of both oils are after a 10,000 mile service interval. That is crazy.
For everyone who owns an ecoboost, please change your oil every 4K miles or 5K kilometers with synthetic. Sincerely, a ford gasoline engine certified technician,
First of all, your conversion from miles to km isn't even close. Second of all, it wildly depends on use case. Idling around NYC and sitting stationary for an hour to run the heat/AC every day is far different from commuting at 70 mph at steady cruise on the highway. I've changed full synthetic at 7500 miles or every 2 years (whichever comes first) in all of my cars and have not had one single mechanical issue in any of them. I could probably push 3-5 years for the lower use cars (they are all driven at least 30 minutes up to temp at least once a month), but I haven't seen enough data to push that yet.
@@nunyabusiness896 are they all ecoboosts? And im rounding off the numbers to a nice even number for the yankees i didnt want to say 3106miles. Also, 7500miles is absurd and a good way to gum everything up
Had a 14' Focus ST and thats exactly what I did till I got rear ended lmao. But I used Penzoil ultra plat every 5k miles. Even threw in Bestline for extra protection
I'm 65 years old, I grew up in the UK, we used Castrol GTX 20W/50, regular oil, (no0 synthetics then), changes were at 10-12k Miles or each year, but in those days, (1970a-80s), we didn't expect our cars to last more than 100k miles. Now I have a 1971 classic Triumph and use High Zinc 20W/50 Synthetic, and the best synthetic U.S.A. made filers I can obtain, I change it out every 6k miles maximum. Hopefully that helps to extend the life of my expensive engine. (I really wish that Valovoline VR-1 Synthetic was easier to find locally)
10,000 mile oil change with a TURBO! Crazy, no wonder the conventional looks like hell, 3000-5000 absolute max for conventional oil. With a turbo I would go 3000, and 5000 synthetic
@@jakefish3184 oems gets CAFE credits from the EPA for longer OCIs because it creates less waste oil. It may survive the warranty period but its not ideal to do 10k mi OCIs in most cases.
Agreed. A turbo engine with conventional at 10k miles is just silly and the varnish makes too much sense with what that conventional oil is being asked to live with for that long. This test would look shockingly similar if it was 3k on conventional and 5k on synthetic.
Great video, thanks for all your hard work. When you said 500,000 miles (800,000 KM), I was expecting a Toyota engine. I'm so surprised that you said Ford 2.3 turbo. Good job Ford! I have used synthetic oil in all my engines since it came out. I always change the oil at 5,000 miles (8,000 KM) and with a quality oil filter, and have never had an oil related breakdown.
Never surprises me. Like the chevy guy across the street working on his silverado every other weekend but asserting how great their vehicles are. The iignorance is breathtaking.
@@vettle1 I agree 100% ,just sold my dad's 2003 Lesabre with188,000 miles always used 10w30 conventional oil every 3to 3500 miles between & had trans oil changed 3 times with a new filter every 50,000 miles never a Trans problem considering it was supposed to have a WEAK trans
Depends a lot on what their testing regime looked like. Those long oil change intervals only really work when the engine spends the vast majority of its time at moderate load and and at normal operating temp.
I want to see them really put their money where their mouth is and put the conventional oil motor back together and use the restore and protect for a few changes And show us if it really unsticks the rings and cleans the varnish.
500,000 miles on both engines. Yes full synthetic had less varnish but I’m really impressed with both oils. Especially seeing they were 10,000 mile intervals oil changes.
Sure but they were run at constant high speed and that's the key. And my bet is that ANY oil with the same viscosity and API rating would have been the same.
I'm using AMSOIL 0W-30 in my 2023 Hyundai Santa Cruz, 2.5L Turbo, and I will be 🎉happy if it doesn't explode before the warranty runs out. The Oil Geek tested it as #1. Sorry Valvoline, but this video did prove synthetic oil is the best choice.
I was happy to see Valvoline Extended Protection being the one tested. That’s exactly what I’ve been using on my 2012 ES350 I bought 2 years ago. Even with 215k, it doesn’t burn a drop. The oil always looks gold on the dip stick, never black and burnt
@@frankwilliams4445 I wish I got paid 😂 I just really love this stuff. I only run it in my Lexus though, my other cars I use pennzoil because it’s cheaper.
@@frankwilliams4445 what oil do you use because it seems all you’re doing is bashing people who support good products 😂 I use pennzoil for everything else but valvoline for my Lexus
Not if you're running constantly for 8 hours everyday. You'll reach that 10K in no time. So the oil is probably in better condition in a car reaching 10K in 2 weeks compared to a car taking 9 months to reach 10K. In this scenario, the oil is in a controlled environment. In real life, most people are driving through, dust, snow, rain etc. which all have particles that make it past the filter. Then you have Ambien temperature changes. Then you have oxidation over time. 9 months of oxidation compared to 2 weeks is a significant difference. I agree that for real life, 10K is way too long. However, in a controlled environment that sees miles adding up for 8 hours or more straight, you'll have less elapsed time between oil changes. They should have driven to and from work with these cars until it reached 500K miles. Would have been more accurate.
I bet if they changed the conventional oil every 5 it would be just about as impressive as the synthetic. Still great considering 10k which I would never do on even synthetic. I do 5 on synthetic or a bit earlier. Great video though.
The best video i ever see i got knowledge i got information i got real life situations not just theories i got save money with this knowledge thanks man and valvoline
A lot of people in the comments are complaining about the 10k oil change frequency, but seemingly fail to understand that the vast majority of people who drive vehicles with combustion engines don't know, and don't WANT to know, anything about them. If the manufacturer recommends an oil change every 10k miles, that's what most users will do (actually MOST users will probably miss that mark by a few thousand miles, I know I do more often than I'd like the admit, and I know a lot more about engines than most drivers). This test is much more realistic for what most drivers will actually do, in a vehicle that a lot more people drive than something like a Mustang. It just reaffirms that for the average driver who just wants to get from point A to point B reliably, Full Synthetic oil is the clear winner as it gives a lot more leniency on frequency of changes.
Conventional Oil protects well better than synthetic if oil change is done in the right time, conventional or mineral is more cheaper and better against friction.
@@HalfVccTronYenteI mean this test showed that conventional changed at the right time wasn't better than synthetic. Unless you mean conventional changed early is better - but then that gets way more expensive than synthetic changed at the right time. Like conventional Valvoline is $20 for 5 quarts + $5 filter so that's $500 over 100,000 miles with 5,000 mile oil changes whereas synthetic is $27 so that's $320 with 10,000 mile oil changes.
@@HalfVccTronYente This is counter productive. Synthetic is the most clean oil you can find causing least friction between two parts because of lack of foreign particles that are of different sizes. It is microscopic but it makes a difference.
What I find interesting is they ran conventional oil double what most would recommend and the engine still isn't that bad minus the stuck rings. I would like to see a head-to-head with 5000 mi intervals over 500k miles
@andybales7318 You are correct. They do mention that they tried to replicate daily driving by changing the throttle, but it is still a very controlled environment.
@@hollowpoint185 yes, without dust, dirt, moisture your every day environmental conditions...a bit deceiving video...a 5k would have been more interesting, as I think there would have been little difference
@@andybales7318Most people's roads aren't full of grit and grime and even if it makes it into the oil, the oil filter will catch it. But this isn't a farm vehicle test. Moisture, in most cases, is a non issue if the engine is allowed to come up to temp. As the operating temp of the oil is roughly 100C and the water will evaporate. The issues come from short trips when the engines aren't allowed to come up to temp and fuel gets past the cold rings on a regular basis, that's not happening here with these engines being run for hours and hours daily. Though again, you need to look at the results of the test. No fatal failures in 500k, most people won't reach half of that. The takeaway is that conventional can survive 10k drains under more idealistic conditions, synthetic can do it easily if you don't do a lot of short trips.
@@Vermonstered not sure where u drive that the roads are clean 🤣 not in big cities, that's for sure...if 10k work for u, go for it...there's a reason they keep lowering the interval rates with synthetic oils......if u recall, it was 15k when the hype started...now, many experts suggest 5k which conventional can do just fine...personally I do synthetic blend 5w20 in my 20' Ford SUV which the manual calls for at 5-7k as I do alot of highway driving..my 03 Ford truck synthetic blend 5w20 every 4-5k...both run fantastic
What I learned was that the oil doesn't matter, they both made it to 500K miles and in the north, the car would have rusted out long before this point and in the south it would have been stolen and sent to mexico.
I'm in the south and have been running Valvoline full synthetic in my truck since I got it with 80k it just crossed 220k and it's a base model so nobody wants to take it so we shall see if it makes it to 500k
Note, though, the conventional had a wastegate failure and a catalytic converter failure much sooner. Not only do those cost money in parts, but also either mechanic labor and/or downtime while you get time to replace them. The timing chain was also starting to go on the conventional oil engine. Additionally, synthetics do better in a wide range of temps, so wear would've been worse in, say, extreme hot or cold climates. Direct Injection engines might also get intake runners more gunked with conventional. There's also the fact of time, conventional would likely get much worse over time over 10, 15, 20 years vs. the 4 tested here. Overall, the savings of $20 or whatever it is per oil change isn't worth the penalties. To me, the labor/hassle of an oil change is far greater than the cost of the oil.
@@juliogonzo2718 I think the cats in both cases ran hotter bc the cars were stationary and didn’t get the normal airflow. Bad wastegate was still due to oil, so an example of cascading failures.
As a retired Master Mechanic with 60yrs of experience, I can tell you oil changes, driving habits and weights of oils also have various results. I worked for Mack Trucks (factory) and Case (construction equipment) dealer and if you sold 50 units, 35 of them would run, what's considered normal wear, and 15 would have abnormal wear. That was evident even with frame and cab component failures. So I wish you would have done 4 vehicles, because the law of probabilities would have given a better understanding of what was actually happening. Great stuff. 👍
I've been telling people for a long time that Ford's Duratec/Ecoboosts motors are fairly stout. I saw several of the with 300,000+ miles working at the Ford dealership.
Back in the day, I ran Gastrol GTX 10w30 conventional oil in my Challenger 340. Every time that I pulled the valve covers, the parts were clean without any buildup. Even after 100K miles, it still looked great. A good quality oil and changing regularly makes a difference.
My 99 Mirage has been getting full synthetic for years, it's at 236,900 mi currently, runs great, and the inside also has that golden color. Every oil change, not a speck of metal in the pan. She runs great and I'm a proud owner who maintains my little car strictly and by the book. I want that antique plate :)
500000 miles tho. Add up the increase in cost to do 3000-4000 mile oil changes over that amount of time. It wouldn't be worth it. Imagine how long it would take you to do 500000 miles? Most people not even in their lifetime. Who would keep a vehicle for that amount of time? Most likely the engine will out live the rest of the car anyway. Don't get me wrong if your car is your pride and joy then by all means. If your car is just a run around then you are just wasting money.
This is why I use synthetic. While I use Mobil 1, not Valvoline, I only use synthetic. The thing that convinced me was opening up the engine in my old Mustang Cobra around 90k miles when a little too much boost broke a spark plug and burned a valve. The inside of that cylinder head and engine looked pristine. The cams and cylinder head looked like it had just been cast. It blew my mind. More recently, I saw one of our work vans that had an engine failure. That guy just did cheap conventional changes at Jiffy Lube or similar. I changed my own oil with synthetic. Both trucks were same year, same engine. Mine had more mileage and a larger box on it/more weight, so it worked harder. It was sitting around waiting to be sold, and the engine had been mostly disassembled until the mechanic diagnosed that it was trashed. A few of my coworkers and I lifted the unbolted valve cover and the top of the cylinder head was full of sludge and varnished beyond belief. We then went and looked at mine by just looking into the oil filler neck. It looked brand new. While I’m sure conventional vs synthetic wasn’t the only issue here (he probably wasn’t good about changing the oil), there really is a large difference. If you’re not using synthetic, you’re just making a bad decision.
10,000 mile OCI for conventional is quite insane. Even when it was standard, no manufacturers ever recommended going over 5000 mile OCI for conventional, and the standard was generally 3,000 miles. I think a 5,000 mile OCI interval for the test would have been more apt.
the recommended OCI for the Gen1 coyote engine is 7500-10000 miles. my Mercedes had a recommended 10k mile OCI as well. I've sent off several oil samples at 10k miles to be analyzed in a lab, and they all still had a great TBN rating. whether or not the filter holds up is another question entirely though.
The stuck rings are something I've been noticing as a wildly under-represented failure mode in popular understanding of things. People still talk about rings and bores wearing out, you can clearly see here that's basically not an issue, modern engines exhibit very little wear in the cylinder walls and rings. The biggest issue for oil consumption and compression loss is stuck rings due to carbon deposits. I'd be interested to see someone take something like a famously oil consuming Subaru, run it on restore and protect and see if the oil can actually clean those deposits and return cylinder seal.
Anecdotal evidence, but I've been running R&P in a couple of old Priuses, which are notorious for the oil control rings getting stuck/clogged and burning an excessive amount of oil. On the first one, I did a quick basic clean with some Seafoam in the oil for ~100 miles before changing the oil, then changed the oil with some regular off the shelf synthetic oil. Consumption from just doing the seafoam cleaning dropped from ~1qt/2000mi to ~0.8qt/4500mi. I changed that oil with Valvoline R&P about 4k miles ago, and I'm still at about halfway between the marks on the dipstick. Too close to tell if it's done anything yet, maybe a slight improvement, but that could just be due to how it's been driven or something. However, what I have noticed is that the engine does seem to be smoother. Cold starts and engine engagements aren't as rough, and the VVT rattle on cold startups seems to be completely gone. I'm changing it next week for another round of R&P. On the second car, I bought it and it had been pretty abused, similar mileage to the first. Oil consumption was ~1.5qt/3000mi. It's currently sitting at ~4500mi with Valvoline R&P and I did top off the oil once before a long trip, so I'd estimate it's burned ~1.25qt in the 4500 miles. Definitely an improvement, and it'll be changed with R&P again and I'll continue to monitor. Similar story to the first, smoother starts, no VVT noise, etc.
@@Black-Villain Interesting stuff! I also have a shitbox Prius, I'll have to try some of that. It's currently down with a bad head gasket but we'll see how the head looks inside with 280k miles when I crack it open. Sounds like the seafoam might be a better solution for severe cases initially.
@@Levibetz Yes that's what I think as well. R&P definitely does seem to be doing what it says, I can tell by the change in the oil deposit/varnish color just by looking in the oil fill hole. However it seems to be pretty mild, so I believe their claims about it needing 4 Oil Change Intervals to properly do its job. For severe buildup/deposit cases, some kind of oil flush is definitely the more aggressive option.
It also makes a big difference what conventional oil is used . I have teared down Cummins and Cat engines in the eighties after 1.5 million km with less varnish than your engines. Another key point is regular coolant changes and injector services and filters. Your engine is only as good as what you feed it and how regular you feed it.
I'm sure some people will whinge about this but personally, thanks for doing it. No way would I ever get to see this otherwise and I love this stuff. Very cool test, really well done video, I want to work for Valvoline now 😂
Thank you for this great video, well done! Just confirms again the importance of using high quality fully synthetic Oil with a healthy change interval. One step further is 5K oil changes AND using 93 Octane always. The latter helps even more with reducing the chances of LSPI even if your vehicle is untuned by some aftermarket calibration changes.
@45 seconds in he says oil change intervals were both roughly 10k miles on full syn and conventional. Omg.. 10k in basic oil!? Nooo thaankk youu thats wild, i cant get myself to go over 5k on a full synthetic LOF.
I went back to conventional oil on my Chevy ,5,3 because of lifter problems and had just put all new lifters in and at 100 hrs later, here came the notorious tapping so I went to conventional and I quietened it up a bit. Poured I quart of Transmission fluid on new oil change and it stopped tapping.
..... That's because those cars never went through the elements.... They aren't real world miles those are lab miles. Doesn't really match up to real world
I have a 2003 VW Jetta Wagon TDI and it is currently at 716K km (445K km). Still running the original engine and transmission exclusively on synthetic oil. Still running strong.
@adamneill9237 you do you, I don't like to settle for what's on sale, especially when i get Amsoil at cost. Most likely cheaper than Valvoline synthetic on sale. Now, I'll use Rotella t6 on a barn find. Especially when I'm not sure of the engine's condition but don't want to run it on its old oil. Then Amsoil it is, once I know it's a runner
@@johnnyturbo8460 exactly, I got three 12qt garage boxes of 5w30 Valvoline Syn when I had a coupon code that was valid w/ sale price, so was $105 for 36qt. Also grabbed three 2.5gal jugs of T6 awhile back for $144. Needless to say, my vehicles are good until 2028/29. I bought an Ioniq 5 about 10mo ago, so no oil needed in 1 car now. Ha!
It would be interesting to see what the difference would be between frequent oil changes (5k) vs less frequent (10k) for mineral oil and how this would help keep the engine clean.
I am not surprised that the synthetic oil engine is in it’s current condition. I have other similar experiences that are about the same. The conventional oil engine was surprisingly in good condition also. The build up on the surfaces is actually not too bad. We must of course keep in mine that both of these engines were operated on a regular schedule. Unfortunately in the real world getting proper maintenance is not always performed on a regular basis. I have been using Valvoline products for several decades and I have settled on the Extended Protection high mileage on most of my vehicles. I did however try the Valvoline Restore and Protect on an old pickup truck with over 350,000 miles on the original engine. The jury is still out as to how well it will clean up this old engine but so far it is definitely running smoother than it previously had. I ran the oil for about 300 miles and I changed the filter per recommendation. I cut the filter open and was surprised at how much carbon and sludge that was present. I only use Wix filters and I routinely cut them open after every oil change. I do this mostly to monitor metallic particulates. I was a research and development engineer for two major motorcycle companies so old habits die hard. I have been using Valvoline products for about 60 years and I am quite happy with them.
![สาวเมืองเพชร - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kEt7F9PvO3I/mqdefault.jpg)
Meanwhile at G&G HQ, Mark is tired, bleeding, and surrounded by the corpses of blown up 4 cylinder engines. As if there's not enough teardowns happening there, both bens are tearing down engines somewhere else too. Burning with righteous indignation, he LS swaps everything in sight. Ben's Civic is now unlimited because it makes like 500 whp. And the Eclipse is actually a good car now.
Except he’d be K-swapping everything unless Alex from legit street cars came by 😂😂😂
It's a good car!
@@craigiefconcert6493 what about a K-series V8 like the hayabusa v8 Predators?
@jellofuel - Thanks for the laugh! 🤣
@@albertolandi4258 wow, those look
pretty insane. Need to put one in a mini 😂😂😂
Now put that conventional engine back together and start running it with valvoline restore and protect.
Honestly
Yesss!
That would be a good test
Yea that would be cool
I just had the same idea!!
This is a fantastic proof that no matter what products you use. Proper maintenance is the key to the long life of a vehicle
Actually, this is proof that the products you use also matters. Synthetic oil is MUCH better than conventional oil. Synthetic oil also happens to be more expensive and most people will get conventional for that exact reason. It's better to spend the extra money to get the better product and this video shows why.
I would of loved a third test vehicle running conventional oil for 5,000 miles instead of 10,000 miles.
I would never run conventional oil for that long because it breaks down much quicker 😅
@Brandon-uy1uv I agree, I work at a shop and most people only go 5,000 miles between oil changes using synthetic blend. I'm pretty sure an engine with oil changes every 5,000, using conventional would have been close to what the full synthetic one looked like. The varnish on engine is mainly from oil deteriorating and breaking down. It becomes acidic and starts corroding parts. But it would have been awesome to see a third variable.
@@JDubSTSynthetic is definitely better but some engines like my Jeep 4.0 don’t like them. I tried using Amsoil synthetic I started burning oil and knocking. She’s much quieter on conventional 10w-40 now
@@waterloo123100 This is where your previous buildup and wear matters. Part of what makes synthetic 'better' than conventional oils is its uniformity of oil molecule size and generally higher detergent levels. If your Jeep was using conventional most of its life and switched to conventional the issues can come from the uniform oil molecule size getting past the oil control rings more regularly than the conventional irregular sizing hence burning more oil. Additionally the higher detergent or cleaning power of the synthetic breaks down carbon and acid related buildup which can open up gaps where wear patterns have developed. These two reasons are why it's not advisable to switch to synthetic after a long period of conventional.
Very informative. I’m too old fashioned to go 10,000 miles between oil changes regardless of the type of oil. I’m 5,000 at the most.
10,000 miles intervals is insane😂 I would never
@@wellyeah4690 Over in the rest of the world, we debate 5,000, 8,000 and 10,000 km for mineral, semi and fully syn. I personally go for 10,000 km which divided by 2 plus 10% is about 6000 miles. Been using a 15w-40 API-SM mineral oil in my small 1.5L Honda for the past 200,000 km now without engine issues. Doesn't even burn oil and next month it'll be hitting 400,000 km on the odo. I plan on asking for a valve adjustment at the workshop for this milestone on top of the regular maintenance. And take a look see if there's any significant varnishing.
@@tempeleng "km" ewwww lol nah but really even 6000 is a bit much, it may have to do with the amount of contamination in the air and other factors but most (responsible vehicle owners) don't exceed 5 mayyyybe 6000 miles on synthetic oil, regular conventional is 3000, crazy story I had a lady come into my shop and confused her transmission fluid with her regular engine oil and had not changed the engine oil in over 30,000 miles 😭
@@wellyeah4690 yea i've been debating 8000 km changes. but no one else keeps tabs on the mileage of the 5 different cars/vans at home so i made it simple.
every 10k on the odo for oil, multiple of 30k for gear or cvtf, multiple 50k for diff and aircond compressor, multiple 100k for brakes and radiator. brake pads when it squeals. if anyone overshot the odometer the interval after that still comes on a 10k odo since i refuse to keep track of everything.
that's life when you have sisters driving used cars.
that 30,000 mile though. must have been like toffee inside the engine.
@@wellyeah4690 It's not insane; it's called chemistry. Do what you feel comfortable with.
You have to acknowledge these things are running clean air. No dusty , dirty gravel roads, etc. That's a huge difference in wear and tear.
and unlikely to have those cold morning starts
It shouldn't be. That's why you have an air filter. How would dust and dirt get in your oil pan??? Like the other guy said cold starts are the big killer.
@@JViello Filters don't trap 100% of the particles that pass through your intake, everything can basically break down till it's small enough to pass through. Tiny particles of basically everything.
They ran these for years and wanted to emulate how a typical driver uses their engine. At the minimum they had to cold start it once a day, but I imagine they cycled them from hot to ambient temp a few times every day. @@gixxingthecommute3410
@@brycedrumm4012 air particles dont wear and tear your engine if you have an air filter lmfao
Impressive.
Now let’s see Paul Allen’s oil
😂
The tasteful thickness of it, the subtle off gold colouring. My god, it's even left a dipstick mark...
@@ReplicantBattymanis something wrong? Ben, you're leaking.
Best comment 😅
😂
Thank you Valvoline for putting this much money and time into testing and showing us. It's not really marketing. It's their conventional product vs their synthetic product. So it's just testing and wasn't cheap.
For such a small company, I'm sure they had to save up for a while beforehand.
not a good test because conventional oil needs to go no further than 5000 miles
😂@@mikuspalmisFact, huge cost and huge labour changing oil on a table for lill V😊
not independent test at all
@@mikuspalmis They don't have to spend the effort and $$$ to show us their internal testing. I know marketing people read these comments. This testing is tedious and expensive some TH-camr isn't going to do it.
Lots of comments complaining, but it was fun to watch and informative aswell. There is a need for ads and sponsorships but this way I don't mind them at all 👍
My only complaint is a lack of testing to simulate cold weather short-trips. That kind of test can expose a lot of bad aspects of cheaper synthetic oils. Especially in GDI engines.
@@hochhaul and that can be another video. They can’t get it all together all in one test I’m sure if you look around on TH-cam you might be able to find one.
@user-vh9hs4qe7r No it's an aspect of oil performance that is frequently overlooked or intentionally left out because oil companies and manufacturers know it's a major issue.
Valvoline vs Valvoline. Std conventional (do they mean mineral? Or they dont know what they have in it?) vs Synthetic. WHO would have guessed Synthetic is better 😅 and who runs mineral on a turbo engine 😂😂😂 only a f00l
Not mineral oil fool
I have a 2024 Maverick with the 2.0 turbo and now will be using Valvoline full synthetic. This is the test I have been looking for. Thanks Valvoline!
This is great. I still can't get myself to go 10,000 miles on a oil change and I don't think I ever will. 5 to 6 thousand is what I usually do with full synthetic.
I read a response from an engineer(on Reddit so take that for what you will) and it's how to calculate intervals. Intervals should be based on gallons of fuel consumed and oil capacity since combustion byproducts are what degrade oils. It's as follows:
1) look up vehicles oil capacity and multiply number by 50
2) this number is the number of gallons of fuel you can consume before requiring an oil change
3) convert this number to miles based on your vehicle's gas mileage average.
Simple calculation that I've used and is highly recommended by various "experts" on car forums.
@@timlong1462 5,582.5 lol. That's interesting
@@lobbyrobby I thought so as well. For me it kind of put a reasoning behind when and why we change engine oil so frequently vs trans or diffs. Makes sense as to why there are detergents in engine oil and not in other lubricants. It's the byproducts of combustion. Prior to reading that equation I never really considered some of that, and having a formula based solely on combustion byproduct entering the oil makes really good sense to me. Also happens to align perfectly with my previous notions, kind of like you.
@@timlong1462 yeah it's good to see my intervals make sense. To me driving habits and conditions should also play a part tho too. Most of my miles are highway miles. If they were mostly city miles (stop and go all day) I'd probably change it more often. Or say towing miles.
I do 3000 mile oil changes no matter what.
Now. Put the engines back together seal em up and fix any problems. Then use your restore and protect for 100,000 miles and tear em apart again
For 30K miles, since it’s three full OCIs
Restore is not meant to be run that long. Not even close
@@mjcmustang he didn't mean all at once, dunce.
@@ifyoudisagreeyouarewrong what are you talking about? He's talking about using Restore for 100k miles....
some people complaining its a 15 min Ad are wrong. it's an interesting video comparing conventionnal to synthetic oil. it could have been any other brand of oil. the test is not telling you ohh valvoline is so much better than any other. its comparing valvoline synthetic vs valvoline conventionnal
The result are what i expected.. a lot more varnish and build up with conventionnal oil.
its not interesting its a dead horse beaten beyond reason
@@evolad2463 i'm interested in what the difference of oil do to my engine. You can skip if you dont care.
@@samsupra ok incel
The test vehicles are Explorer engines.. I truly don’t care what oil is used, they’re shit platforms to start. 😂 maybe a coyote engine would have been, cooler.. still ford, and more enthusiasts would be enthusiastic about that power plant than this. Also, they should have had the star mechanic, Mike, be there. He would probably more geeked and enthusiastic than these two boring bens
@@SkarryTerry The 2.3 is in the Mustang and Focus RS. These are pretty good power plants.
How many of us would get to see engines torn apart in a comparison without this sponsorship? This is awesome. Thanks Bens!
project farm
Very difficult to have 2 vehicles run under the exact same circumstances. Without a sponsor
@@Tallnerdyguy these companies can afford those costs.. theyre not poor like us cats..even 200,000 km would be just as fine, not necessary to reach 800,000km
I got my previous 4 cars with between 22,000 and 24,000 miles. Used only full sythetic oil and changes every 5,000 miles. All four reached o er 300,000 before I replaced them. Only maintenance was an alternator on one, the serpentine belts, and injector replacement on one. My current car I got with 22,500 miles, and currently it has 240,000 miles. Oil changes every 7,000, full synthetic oil, and it's still going strong. I do not buy the bargain oil.
Yeah sure. 300k mile brake pads and rotors. Pretty good
Thank you, Team Valvoline for documenting this testing result! I like to run my vehicles a long time. I discontinued conventional oil for full synthetic a couple years ago and will now run nothing else except full synthetic.
Commercial or not, it's awesome to see how much of a difference the oil type makes!
I'm really looking forward to next Saturday's episode!
There not much difference. Both engines are running fine.
@@ExecuteBrandonthere is a pretty good chunk of a difference as far as how the oils differ from each other. In the long run the conventional oil engine would have more problems done the road causing the engine to eventually fail much FASTER THAN THE FULL SYNTHETIC OIL . Bottom line is run full synthetic oil.
@@diegogonzalez9329 This test doesn’t support your statement. Lol
@@ExecuteBrandonhis statement is supported by the video, especially in the last quarter.
Lets just compare:
7 cold stuck oilrings on the pistons for conventional oil VS 1 on synthetic oil.
300k mile Turbo with heavy wear and build-up VS a worn turbo with little build up after 500k miles.
Just those two are already enough to prove his point.
The cold stuck rings will fail eventually, having seven of them now is a guarantee that one will get hot stuck soon.
the Turbo will also fail soon meaning a third replacement for the conventional while the synthetic looks like it could go another 100k miles before replacement, but even if it fails in the next 10 you would still only be on the second while the other remains on course to hit the third in not to many more miles.
The tensioner of the chain getting stuck out of position will also increase the wear and reduce the economy of the engine. So it will cost you double in the long run.
It might have helped if they had actually measured fuel consumption, which should be easy in such a test.
The conventional oil engine certainly uses a bit more fuel now than the synthetic oil one simply due to the slack in the chain, the higher levels of carbon build-up and the number of stuck oil rings.
While you are correct that both oils kept the engines in decent condition, it can also be said that the "extended range premium synthetic oil" did live up to its name and despite the higher costs per oil change youd safe more money in the long run. Ofcourse if you change cars every 100k miles the story would be different and the cheaper conventional oil would not cause you any aditional costs at such a milage, at least judging from what we saw in this test.
@@AlphaHorst And yet, none of the engines failed which is what actually counts.
Considering Ford would recommend synthetic oils in the first place, to have run conventional oil 10,000 miles on these is crazy. I'd wager the varnish would be significantly less with 5,000 mile oil changes.
Only on the conventional. You still get varnish.
Yea about 2x longer than conventional should be run
Yeah I was wondering if more frequent oil changes with conventional would help. But I imagine this is representative of the general public so makes for a realistic test in my mind.
I change my oil every 5000 miles or when I get bored
Idc what a manufacturer says I do mine at 5-7k
Ben Lin to valvoline after filming:
So….you done with these engines? We kind of need a couple…😂😂😂
"Will these fit my mitsubishi?" - Ben
Those 2.3 ecoboosts can actually swap pretty easily into quite a few chassis..
I'm 53 and have run a competitor's brand (starts with the letter M) full-synthetic for 32 years in everything I've owned; cars, pickups, SUVs and sportbikes. After drag racing old-school air/oil-cooled GSXRs in the '90s I became a huge believer in synthetic oil and how well it protects parts from wear.
What is the M brand
@@issavibez394 Stop and think for a few seconds what company is well-known for their synthetic oils and name starts with the letter M.
@@BB.......... Mobil 1 . Motorcraft
@@issavibez394 Only one of those is famous for their synthetic oils.
@@BB.......... both of those sucks from my experience. My experience valvoline restore has been great results for me
This truly is one of the best automotive tests I've seen on youtube! Thank you for paying for two SUVs to run every day for 4 years, that is crazy. I've already been sold on full synthetic, but I do wonder now if I should pay premium prices for premium brands of synthetic oil vs the generic off the shelf stuff, and if the additives that make premium oils more fancy even matter if I'm changing oil every 3k miles, not 10k. Over the course of 500k mi, changing every 3k with $45 oil vs $25 oil makes a huge difference in maintenance cost but I think this here proves that even the worst oil (conventional) can still get the engine (mostly) to the same mileage.
The fact a Ford engine went 500,000 miles at all is surprising in itself
2.3 4 cyl good solid engine
Or the trans. Unless they’re not telling us everything
Keep in mind these engines got zero hot/cold cycles and just ran and ran. It is hot/cold cycling that really kills engines, so we shouldn't be surprised by the longevity of these motors.
@@brookmiller-lee123 good point! Also stop and go.
What do u mean by that? You mean it wasn't tested out in actual road test during summer and winter months?
Love that Valvoline gave you guys the opportunity to show us the differences between the two oil types. Given it’s just their brand but still very cool to see what differences they had!
Good to know I’ll still be running their 5w40 full synthetic in my 2004 STi.
I read a breakdown from a testing facility on e320 diesel engines. They said that 5w40 had significantly less wear than 5w30 or thinner. It's just not worth the mpg to go lighter if it costs you in engine life. That's assuming you plan to own the car for hundreds of thousands of miles.
@@Smagual86 yeha, exactly. planning on having my 04 sti until I or the chassis dies.
A sucker born every minute
I'd be interested in seeing conventional at a 3-5k mile oil change interval vs the synthetic at 10k mile. Currently running Restore and Protect in my 200k mile GX470 so it's cool to see a glimpse into the engineering and testing side as it highlights where that extra cost of Valvoline actually gets spent.
Valvoline wouldn't advertise that because they don't want people realizing that 5k is better - I'd wager 5k conventional blows 10k synthetic out of the park, and neither of the engines would have noticeable issues vs the samples in the video.
If they explicitly showed 5k vs 10k, they would be shooting their own marketing saying 10/15k is good in the foot. Also, regardless of if they want to or not, the rest of the auto industry is pushing for 10k changes on newer cars. If they went against the grain, people might think their oil is less reliable and buy oil from other manufacturers that say 10k is kosher.
@@SmurfHunter Valvoline would definitely prefer you change your oil every 5k miles because then they sell you twice as much oil.
If they didnt think any oil could last 10k they would be showing that any chance they had.
@@SmurfHunter So Valvoline don't want people to buy their product more...? If 5K is worth it, they want you to do that, but a company with integrity won't say - You HAVE TO change at 5K - If 10K works just fine for the regular consumer.
If you change every 5K that's just good business for them or any other manufacturer. Your logic here is very flawed.
@@SmurfHunter it's crazy how engineers can spend decades developing better materials for better reliability and less maintenance and people somehow still act like it's some elaborate scam
@@SmurfHunter they literally SAID that they used 10k because that is what FORD recommends
Best video that I saw about engine oils.
I've always used Mobil 5W-30 Fully synthetic on my Turbo RS, 2 services ago, Mobil was not available anymore in my country and only Vavoline. I was abit hesitant to use this brand, but at the end I did. Same viscosity Vavoline Fully Synthetic. I am glad I did after watching this Video. I guess regardless of the brand, Fully synthetic is the oil that will protect the moving parts better than conventional oil. I had no choice but to use Fully synthetic as recommended by my car manufacturer for this engine. Thank you so much for the video, cleared a lot of doubts. Cheers
Supertech OCI every 3 to 4k miles is all the average driver ever would need ! My 94 chevy s10 with an unrebuilt 2.2 has 663,000 miles on her ! 130 oil changes ! Runs great !
Never have I watched a video with such a detailed comparison study between the regular mineral and synthetic oil usage. Very good work and educative. Thanks for sharing 😊
It's actually a description of why proper OCI's are mush less than 10K
While this is an ad, it’s very easy to not watch the video if it doesn’t interest you.
These are free videos. Complaining makes zero sense.
Also, Valvoline has sponsored motor sports for a very long time and have stood behind some cool projects.
I really don't see this as an ad. They could literally use any other brand and the results would be the same. It's just Valvoline in this video because well... They happen to be the sponsor for G&G.
@@JDubST Given the discoloration I thought it was Castrol until I clicked on the video....
Another PR team comment. 😂
@@frankwilliams4445 100% a real person. Not in anyway remotely affiliated with them
Valvoline full synthetic 5w-30 has been my go-to oil in the 4 years since my short block replacement. After running VR1 during the break-in period, of course.
Thank you, G&G; and thank you, Valvoline!
This is so cool. I've always stood by full synthetic, and this video shows why it's the best.
I love the racing and build videos. But it's nice to learn about the engineering of something as simple as engine oil.
as a mechanic, this is the kind of stuff I geek out over.... great work! inspiration to keep working on my own auto channel
I've never heard of running conventional oil 10k miles. Imo I'm more impressed with the conventional oil.
Kirkland oil is conventional oil - same as Mobil 1, or Castrol, or Valvoline…
synthetic oil starts of as conventional. synthetic oil is just slightly cleaned up conventional, with some 'special' additives added. Brand name conventional is probably better than Walmart 'full-synthetic'. What people should really be learning about is the additive packages they use. I wanna know how much ethyl-trimethyl-diketone-poly-crazyshitttoxicAF is in my oils... i made that chemical up BTW
@@wesleydeer889 True
@@wesleydeer889 I'm believing synthetic base stock does not come from crude oil.
@@skirkland1980 it does. They don’t make synthetic oil from scratch. Even Mobil 1 full synthetic came out of the ground. Now Mobil does refine the oil further, removing impurities, and adding advanced additives they’ve spent millions developing (you should see Mobil’s patents). No company, not even royal purple or redline make any of it from scratch. “Synthetic” is a marketing tactic that was brilliant, and totally misleading.
I am still so damn impressed the ford motors and turbos lasted 500,000 miles. Preventative maintenance is really something it seems many people ignore and why I know many that swear by buying new to ensure it is done
I switched to full synthetic oil back in the late 70's after sticking lifters flattened an input valve cam lobe on my 327V8 Chevy Impala.
Just bought my wife an Explorer with 2.3 EB last Saturday: The video is confirmation of which oil I need to stick with.
Do 5k oil changes though.
It got turbocharged no way 10k miles oil change. Semi turbo diesel don't even do that(8k-7k miles)
@@GF-mf7ml most semis have 25,000mi oil change intervals under normal use conditions....
@@xn7331and also have up to like 25 gallons of oil, my tiny dump truck takes 22 quarts 😂
Keep an eye on the Coolant PH, as the Coolant pump is INSIDE the oil pan.
So conventional oil is actually amazing. I’ve never heard of 10,000 mile oil change intervals using conventional oil. Shocking it held up for a whopping 500,000 miles!! 🤯🤯
To be fair, it's not the same conventional oil as in 1974. It has a modern additive package.
Semi trucks go 10,000 or more on conventional oil.
@@RobertYonngbut they have 10+ gallons of oil in their engine.
Exactly so why waste money on synthetic
@@johncresswell4680for less than a cup of coffee, you can purchase synthetic over conventional. Why would you not?
Now this is worth watching. Goes to show, change your oil often and use synthetic if you can.
You have to give Valveoline credit. Not a cheep test. And the results were telling. How many other engine oil producers did something like this? Excellent video.
Im surprised they didnt use a cheap nissan altima or kia forte to test this out. Why use a fairly expensive suv to test it
@@Hallowsawno way a Kia would go 200k
@@brucedale4465 yes they can... also they are testing the oil so it would be best if they use a car that runs middle of the pack for reliability. If they choose a car that has low reliability like a range rover, it is more likely the manufacturer is the reason the car broke down. Whereas if you use a top reliability vehicle, the test will go on for ages
It would’ve been nice to get a compression and leak down test on both motors as well as an oil analysis.
I can’t imagine what the viscosity of both oils are after a 10,000 mile service interval. That is crazy.
Love to see them run the engine with valvoline restore & protect and see the difference
For everyone who owns an ecoboost, please change your oil every 4K miles or 5K kilometers with synthetic.
Sincerely, a ford gasoline engine certified technician,
First of all, your conversion from miles to km isn't even close. Second of all, it wildly depends on use case. Idling around NYC and sitting stationary for an hour to run the heat/AC every day is far different from commuting at 70 mph at steady cruise on the highway. I've changed full synthetic at 7500 miles or every 2 years (whichever comes first) in all of my cars and have not had one single mechanical issue in any of them. I could probably push 3-5 years for the lower use cars (they are all driven at least 30 minutes up to temp at least once a month), but I haven't seen enough data to push that yet.
@@nunyabusiness896 are they all ecoboosts? And im rounding off the numbers to a nice even number for the yankees i didnt want to say 3106miles. Also, 7500miles is absurd and a good way to gum everything up
@@xXCODkingProductions 225k miles and runs like new would beg to differ, though that’s a Mazda Skyactiv and not a Fix Or Replace Daily turdblow
@@xXCODkingProductions You wrote 4K miles (that's why he complained), but you obviously meant 3K miles.
Had a 14' Focus ST and thats exactly what I did till I got rear ended lmao. But I used Penzoil ultra plat every 5k miles. Even threw in Bestline for extra protection
Perfect motor for a Restore and Protect test! It'd be awesome to see the difference a full cycle would do for those varnished internals.
Don't know what that is?
I'm 65 years old, I grew up in the UK, we used Castrol GTX 20W/50, regular oil, (no0 synthetics then), changes were at 10-12k Miles or each year, but in those days, (1970a-80s), we didn't expect our cars to last more than 100k miles. Now I have a 1971 classic Triumph and use High Zinc 20W/50 Synthetic, and the best synthetic U.S.A. made filers I can obtain, I change it out every 6k miles maximum. Hopefully that helps to extend the life of my expensive engine. (I really wish that Valovoline VR-1 Synthetic was easier to find locally)
WOW!!!
TRULY AMAZING VIDEO!
THANKS VALVOLINE
10,000 mile oil change with a TURBO! Crazy, no wonder the conventional looks like hell, 3000-5000 absolute max for conventional oil. With a turbo I would go 3000, and 5000 synthetic
my first thought, they said "10k service interval" and i DIED
i do 5000 in my NA honda D16 with 9.2:1 compression running synthetic. i really think they mark service intervals that high for marketing
@@jakefish3184 oems gets CAFE credits from the EPA for longer OCIs because it creates less waste oil. It may survive the warranty period but its not ideal to do 10k mi OCIs in most cases.
Agreed. A turbo engine with conventional at 10k miles is just silly and the varnish makes too much sense with what that conventional oil is being asked to live with for that long. This test would look shockingly similar if it was 3k on conventional and 5k on synthetic.
Yup, you’re right on the money regarding those intervals.
Ben had synthetic while Ben had conventional.
Spoilers man jfc
Thought it was the other way around🤔
What's impressive is that they got 2 new turbo 4 cylinders to last 500,000 miles
No shit lol. I feel like we are going back in time with reliability on these new vehicles.
Modern engines are much better, why are you surprised.
@@chippyjohn1. You know nothing about modern engines then. The timing components in most OHC ford, Chevy, and Chrysler engines is complete garbage
@@stevenvanheel3932 I agree with that. The US doesn't produce quality engines. You need to look at European and Japanese.
@TheRealCatof I disagree. Euro engines are far better than those in the US. Been that way for 100 years.
Great video, thanks for all your hard work. When you said 500,000 miles (800,000 KM), I was expecting a Toyota engine. I'm so surprised that you said Ford 2.3 turbo. Good job Ford! I have used synthetic oil in all my engines since it came out. I always change the oil at 5,000 miles (8,000 KM) and with a quality oil filter, and have never had an oil related breakdown.
Never surprises me. Like the chevy guy across the street working on his silverado every other weekend but asserting how great their vehicles are. The iignorance is breathtaking.
Owners who have been foolish enough to buy such products can't admit failure to themselves.
Impressed that conventional in 10K intervals made it to 500,000 miles in the first place.
Those dinosaurs are tough
@@vettle1 I agree 100% ,just sold my dad's 2003 Lesabre with188,000 miles always used 10w30 conventional oil every 3to 3500 miles between & had trans oil changed 3 times with a new filter every 50,000 miles never a Trans problem considering it was supposed to have a WEAK trans
Depends a lot on what their testing regime looked like. Those long oil change intervals only really work when the engine spends the vast majority of its time at moderate load and and at normal operating temp.
@@fnorgen even under optimal conditions, mineral oil base, 10K mile oil, 500 thousand miles ... It's impressive
They could have used much longer intervals and result would be the same. 10000 fictional miles on dyno is nothing.
I want to see them really put their money where their mouth is and put the conventional oil motor back together and use the restore and protect for a few changes And show us if it really unsticks the rings and cleans the varnish.
Probably will not do a thing.
That would be what they did during development, I have seen at least one video showing the result.
So put the conventional oil engine back together and run your Restore and Protect oil in it and see how much it cleans up the varnish
500,000 miles on both engines. Yes full synthetic had less varnish but I’m really impressed with both oils. Especially seeing they were 10,000 mile intervals oil changes.
Varnish raises compression
Sure but they were run at constant high speed and that's the key. And my bet is that ANY oil with the same viscosity and API rating would have been the same.
I'm using AMSOIL 0W-30 in my 2023 Hyundai Santa Cruz, 2.5L Turbo, and I will be 🎉happy if it doesn't explode before the warranty runs out. The Oil Geek tested it as #1. Sorry Valvoline, but this video did prove synthetic oil is the best choice.
I was happy to see Valvoline Extended Protection being the one tested. That’s exactly what I’ve been using on my 2012 ES350 I bought 2 years ago. Even with 215k, it doesn’t burn a drop. The oil always looks gold on the dip stick, never black and burnt
How much does your PR company pay you?
@@frankwilliams4445 I wish I got paid 😂 I just really love this stuff. I only run it in my Lexus though, my other cars I use pennzoil because it’s cheaper.
@@frankwilliams4445 what oil do you use because it seems all you’re doing is bashing people who support good products 😂 I use pennzoil for everything else but valvoline for my Lexus
@@tinuthomas531 ever heard of a monopoly?
10k on conventional is just WAY too long.
yes
That oil should have been changed 3x in a 10k miles interval.
Should definitely run the same test but changing the conventional oil sooner to see how they compare
Not if you're running constantly for 8 hours everyday. You'll reach that 10K in no time. So the oil is probably in better condition in a car reaching 10K in 2 weeks compared to a car taking 9 months to reach 10K.
In this scenario, the oil is in a controlled environment. In real life, most people are driving through, dust, snow, rain etc. which all have particles that make it past the filter. Then you have Ambien temperature changes. Then you have oxidation over time. 9 months of oxidation compared to 2 weeks is a significant difference.
I agree that for real life, 10K is way too long. However, in a controlled environment that sees miles adding up for 8 hours or more straight, you'll have less elapsed time between oil changes.
They should have driven to and from work with these cars until it reached 500K miles. Would have been more accurate.
I bet if they changed the conventional oil every 5 it would be just about as impressive as the synthetic. Still great considering 10k which I would never do on even synthetic. I do 5 on synthetic or a bit earlier. Great video though.
This was cool to see.
The best video i ever see i got knowledge i got information i got real life situations not just theories i got save money with this knowledge thanks man and valvoline
What a great video. Love the comparison. Imagine 5,000 oil changes?
A lot of people in the comments are complaining about the 10k oil change frequency, but seemingly fail to understand that the vast majority of people who drive vehicles with combustion engines don't know, and don't WANT to know, anything about them. If the manufacturer recommends an oil change every 10k miles, that's what most users will do (actually MOST users will probably miss that mark by a few thousand miles, I know I do more often than I'd like the admit, and I know a lot more about engines than most drivers). This test is much more realistic for what most drivers will actually do, in a vehicle that a lot more people drive than something like a Mustang. It just reaffirms that for the average driver who just wants to get from point A to point B reliably, Full Synthetic oil is the clear winner as it gives a lot more leniency on frequency of changes.
Conventional Oil protects well better than synthetic if oil change is done in the right time, conventional or mineral is more cheaper and better against friction.
@@HalfVccTronYenteI mean this test showed that conventional changed at the right time wasn't better than synthetic.
Unless you mean conventional changed early is better - but then that gets way more expensive than synthetic changed at the right time.
Like conventional Valvoline is $20 for 5 quarts + $5 filter so that's $500 over 100,000 miles with 5,000 mile oil changes whereas synthetic is $27 so that's $320 with 10,000 mile oil changes.
@@HalfVccTronYente This is counter productive. Synthetic is the most clean oil you can find causing least friction between two parts because of lack of foreign particles that are of different sizes. It is microscopic but it makes a difference.
This is the right way to do a sponsor video. Show don’t tell
Now they should do a restore and protect test on these motors
Awesome video as always Ben T and Ben L.
Nice to see that nice stout engine stands are being used not those 3 wheeled stands that are dangerous.
What I find interesting is they ran conventional oil double what most would recommend and the engine still isn't that bad minus the stuck rings. I would like to see a head-to-head with 5000 mi intervals over 500k miles
My biggest takeaway from this video is that 10k oil change intervals aren't as bad as I thought.
Not true...these vehicles weren't driven in daily life...there's a difference
@andybales7318 You are correct. They do mention that they tried to replicate daily driving by changing the throttle, but it is still a very controlled environment.
@@hollowpoint185 yes, without dust, dirt, moisture your every day environmental conditions...a bit deceiving video...a 5k would have been more interesting, as I think there would have been little difference
@@andybales7318Most people's roads aren't full of grit and grime and even if it makes it into the oil, the oil filter will catch it. But this isn't a farm vehicle test. Moisture, in most cases, is a non issue if the engine is allowed to come up to temp. As the operating temp of the oil is roughly 100C and the water will evaporate. The issues come from short trips when the engines aren't allowed to come up to temp and fuel gets past the cold rings on a regular basis, that's not happening here with these engines being run for hours and hours daily. Though again, you need to look at the results of the test. No fatal failures in 500k, most people won't reach half of that. The takeaway is that conventional can survive 10k drains under more idealistic conditions, synthetic can do it easily if you don't do a lot of short trips.
@@Vermonstered not sure where u drive that the roads are clean 🤣 not in big cities, that's for sure...if 10k work for u, go for it...there's a reason they keep lowering the interval rates with synthetic oils......if u recall, it was 15k when the hype started...now, many experts suggest 5k which conventional can do just fine...personally I do synthetic blend 5w20 in my 20' Ford SUV which the manual calls for at 5-7k as I do alot of highway driving..my 03 Ford truck synthetic blend 5w20 every 4-5k...both run fantastic
What I learned was that the oil doesn't matter, they both made it to 500K miles and in the north, the car would have rusted out long before this point and in the south it would have been stolen and sent to mexico.
I'm in the south and have been running Valvoline full synthetic in my truck since I got it with 80k it just crossed 220k and it's a base model so nobody wants to take it so we shall see if it makes it to 500k
Note, though, the conventional had a wastegate failure and a catalytic converter failure much sooner. Not only do those cost money in parts, but also either mechanic labor and/or downtime while you get time to replace them. The timing chain was also starting to go on the conventional oil engine. Additionally, synthetics do better in a wide range of temps, so wear would've been worse in, say, extreme hot or cold climates. Direct Injection engines might also get intake runners more gunked with conventional. There's also the fact of time, conventional would likely get much worse over time over 10, 15, 20 years vs. the 4 tested here. Overall, the savings of $20 or whatever it is per oil change isn't worth the penalties. To me, the labor/hassle of an oil change is far greater than the cost of the oil.
@@nunyabusiness896the wastgate getting stuck probably ran too much fuel through the cats
@@juliogonzo2718 I think the cats in both cases ran hotter bc the cars were stationary and didn’t get the normal airflow. Bad wastegate was still due to oil, so an example of cascading failures.
@nunyabusiness896 The wastegate is controlled by boost pressure and is not lubricated by engine oil generally.
As a retired Master Mechanic with 60yrs of experience, I can tell you oil changes, driving habits and weights of oils also have various results. I worked for Mack Trucks (factory) and Case (construction equipment) dealer and if you sold 50 units, 35 of them would run, what's considered normal wear, and 15 would have abnormal wear. That was evident even with frame and cab component failures. So I wish you would have done 4 vehicles, because the law of probabilities would have given a better understanding of what was actually happening. Great stuff. 👍
I have 460k on my 95 Silverado daily driver 2wd ( 305) and it’s doing great. Synthetic on every first of the month. Lots of highway miles.
Don't go to 10k miles in any engine on conventional oil. For turbo motors, 5k mile changes using full synthetic. Your vehicle will thank you.
Now rebuild the conventional one and run the new clean+protect oil. Let's see how well it actually works would be cool
I've been telling people for a long time that Ford's Duratec/Ecoboosts motors are fairly stout. I saw several of the with 300,000+ miles working at the Ford dealership.
Back in the day, I ran Gastrol GTX 10w30 conventional oil in my Challenger 340.
Every time that I pulled the valve covers, the parts were clean without any buildup.
Even after 100K miles, it still looked great.
A good quality oil and changing regularly makes a difference.
My 99 Mirage has been getting full synthetic for years, it's at 236,900 mi currently, runs great, and the inside also has that golden color. Every oil change, not a speck of metal in the pan. She runs great and I'm a proud owner who maintains my little car strictly and by the book. I want that antique plate :)
All this proves is…. On time oil changes matter, even a bit early won’t hurt it
Just proves that no matter the oil brand or type, 3,000-4,000 oil change intervals need to happen on gas engines.
500000 miles tho. Add up the increase in cost to do 3000-4000 mile oil changes over that amount of time. It wouldn't be worth it. Imagine how long it would take you to do 500000 miles? Most people not even in their lifetime. Who would keep a vehicle for that amount of time? Most likely the engine will out live the rest of the car anyway. Don't get me wrong if your car is your pride and joy then by all means. If your car is just a run around then you are just wasting money.
This is why I use synthetic. While I use Mobil 1, not Valvoline, I only use synthetic. The thing that convinced me was opening up the engine in my old Mustang Cobra around 90k miles when a little too much boost broke a spark plug and burned a valve. The inside of that cylinder head and engine looked pristine. The cams and cylinder head looked like it had just been cast. It blew my mind. More recently, I saw one of our work vans that had an engine failure. That guy just did cheap conventional changes at Jiffy Lube or similar. I changed my own oil with synthetic. Both trucks were same year, same engine. Mine had more mileage and a larger box on it/more weight, so it worked harder. It was sitting around waiting to be sold, and the engine had been mostly disassembled until the mechanic diagnosed that it was trashed. A few of my coworkers and I lifted the unbolted valve cover and the top of the cylinder head was full of sludge and varnished beyond belief. We then went and looked at mine by just looking into the oil filler neck. It looked brand new.
While I’m sure conventional vs synthetic wasn’t the only issue here (he probably wasn’t good about changing the oil), there really is a large difference. If you’re not using synthetic, you’re just making a bad decision.
Great video!!! Congrats to all the people involved!
Fantastic and complete study. Truly amazing. Very appreciated, thanks and congrats!
10,000 mile OCI for conventional is quite insane. Even when it was standard, no manufacturers ever recommended going over 5000 mile OCI for conventional, and the standard was generally 3,000 miles. I think a 5,000 mile OCI interval for the test would have been more apt.
10,000 is fine for good synthetic oil.
the recommended OCI for the Gen1 coyote engine is 7500-10000 miles. my Mercedes had a recommended 10k mile OCI as well. I've sent off several oil samples at 10k miles to be analyzed in a lab, and they all still had a great TBN rating. whether or not the filter holds up is another question entirely though.
@@renaissanceengineering-lee4210 those early Gen 1 coyote F150s and Mustangs specd synthetic oil though, not conventional
@@on1ytheb3st oh that's a good point, I completely missed where you mentioned conventional. yeah, My engine is specifically calls out 5w-50 syn.
The stuck rings are something I've been noticing as a wildly under-represented failure mode in popular understanding of things. People still talk about rings and bores wearing out, you can clearly see here that's basically not an issue, modern engines exhibit very little wear in the cylinder walls and rings. The biggest issue for oil consumption and compression loss is stuck rings due to carbon deposits. I'd be interested to see someone take something like a famously oil consuming Subaru, run it on restore and protect and see if the oil can actually clean those deposits and return cylinder seal.
Anecdotal evidence, but I've been running R&P in a couple of old Priuses, which are notorious for the oil control rings getting stuck/clogged and burning an excessive amount of oil.
On the first one, I did a quick basic clean with some Seafoam in the oil for ~100 miles before changing the oil, then changed the oil with some regular off the shelf synthetic oil. Consumption from just doing the seafoam cleaning dropped from ~1qt/2000mi to ~0.8qt/4500mi. I changed that oil with Valvoline R&P about 4k miles ago, and I'm still at about halfway between the marks on the dipstick. Too close to tell if it's done anything yet, maybe a slight improvement, but that could just be due to how it's been driven or something. However, what I have noticed is that the engine does seem to be smoother. Cold starts and engine engagements aren't as rough, and the VVT rattle on cold startups seems to be completely gone. I'm changing it next week for another round of R&P.
On the second car, I bought it and it had been pretty abused, similar mileage to the first. Oil consumption was ~1.5qt/3000mi. It's currently sitting at ~4500mi with Valvoline R&P and I did top off the oil once before a long trip, so I'd estimate it's burned ~1.25qt in the 4500 miles. Definitely an improvement, and it'll be changed with R&P again and I'll continue to monitor. Similar story to the first, smoother starts, no VVT noise, etc.
@@Black-Villain Interesting stuff! I also have a shitbox Prius, I'll have to try some of that. It's currently down with a bad head gasket but we'll see how the head looks inside with 280k miles when I crack it open. Sounds like the seafoam might be a better solution for severe cases initially.
@@Levibetz Yes that's what I think as well. R&P definitely does seem to be doing what it says, I can tell by the change in the oil deposit/varnish color just by looking in the oil fill hole. However it seems to be pretty mild, so I believe their claims about it needing 4 Oil Change Intervals to properly do its job. For severe buildup/deposit cases, some kind of oil flush is definitely the more aggressive option.
I didn't know this was still up for debate
It also makes a big difference what conventional oil is used . I have teared down Cummins and Cat engines in the eighties after 1.5 million km with less varnish than your engines. Another key point is regular coolant changes and injector services and filters. Your engine is only as good as what you feed it and how regular you feed it.
What an awesome comparison!
I'm sure some people will whinge about this but personally, thanks for doing it. No way would I ever get to see this otherwise and I love this stuff. Very cool test, really well done video, I want to work for Valvoline now 😂
Seeing both of these 2.3s make it to half a mil is already pretty impressive. Ford has come a long way with turbo tech.
I don't have the same warm fuzzy for the 2.3 in my RS, but we will see how it goes.
@@1974kenmTuning is a big difference. Containing low end torque is the biggest concern.
Now do the same with the new Restore and Protect version pls
Thank you for this great video, well done!
Just confirms again the importance of using high quality fully synthetic Oil with a healthy change interval. One step further is 5K oil changes AND using 93 Octane always. The latter helps even more with reducing the chances of LSPI even if your vehicle is untuned by some aftermarket calibration changes.
@45 seconds in he says oil change intervals were both roughly 10k miles on full syn and conventional. Omg.. 10k in basic oil!? Nooo thaankk youu thats wild, i cant get myself to go over 5k on a full synthetic LOF.
I went back to conventional oil on my Chevy ,5,3 because of lifter problems and had just put all new lifters in and at 100 hrs later, here came the notorious tapping so I went to conventional and I quietened it up a bit. Poured I quart of Transmission fluid on new oil change and it stopped tapping.
What year 5.3?
What year 5.3 jodygilbert?
@@thomasstrayer3994 2011
Just by the color of the throtle bodies I knew
..... That's because those cars never went through the elements.... They aren't real world miles those are lab miles. Doesn't really match up to real world
Exactly what I was thinking- no dust, no rough roads, no 90+° days in the sun, etc
Good results. If you’re going full synthetic get Schaeffer Synthetic. Outstanding oil. New Pennzoil made from natural gas is another fantastic oil.
I have a 2003 VW Jetta Wagon TDI and it is currently at 716K km (445K km). Still running the original engine and transmission exclusively on synthetic oil. Still running strong.
Who ever says 10,000 miles oil change... i can't take them seriously.
Did they say that they changed the oil every 10k? You can’t do that with conventional oil, you’d have to change it every 3-5k.
Amsoil for the WIN!! 😁👍
Just imagine how much better an Amsoil engine would look even over synthetic Valvoline .
Saved over $3200 using Valvoline syn
@adamneill9237 you would probably save over $3600 if you just paid the $25 to be a dealer and get the Amsoil at cost.
The more you know 👍
@@johnnyturbo8460 I buy Valvoline Syn when on deal or Rotella T6. OCI's in the 7.5k area, and never an issue. Ain't broke, don't fix it
@adamneill9237 you do you, I don't like to settle for what's on sale, especially when i get Amsoil at cost. Most likely cheaper than Valvoline synthetic on sale.
Now, I'll use Rotella t6 on a barn find. Especially when I'm not sure of the engine's condition but don't want to run it on its old oil.
Then Amsoil it is, once I know it's a runner
@@johnnyturbo8460 exactly, I got three 12qt garage boxes of 5w30 Valvoline Syn when I had a coupon code that was valid w/ sale price, so was $105 for 36qt. Also grabbed three 2.5gal jugs of T6 awhile back for $144. Needless to say, my vehicles are good until 2028/29. I bought an Ioniq 5 about 10mo ago, so no oil needed in 1 car now. Ha!
It would be interesting to see what the difference would be between frequent oil changes (5k) vs less frequent (10k) for mineral oil and how this would help keep the engine clean.
I am not surprised that the synthetic oil engine is in it’s current condition. I have other similar experiences that are about the same. The conventional oil engine was surprisingly in good condition also. The build up on the surfaces is actually not too bad. We must of course keep in mine that both of these engines were operated on a regular schedule. Unfortunately in the real world getting proper maintenance is not always performed on a regular basis.
I have been using Valvoline products for several decades and I have settled on the Extended Protection high mileage on most of my vehicles.
I did however try the Valvoline Restore and Protect on an old pickup truck with over 350,000 miles on the original engine. The jury is still out as to how well it will clean up this old engine but so far it is definitely running smoother than it previously had. I ran the oil for about 300 miles and I changed the filter per recommendation. I cut the filter open and was surprised at how much carbon and sludge that was present. I only use Wix filters and I routinely cut them open after every oil change. I do this mostly to monitor metallic particulates. I was a research and development engineer for two major motorcycle companies so old habits die hard. I have been using Valvoline products for about 60 years and I am quite happy with them.