Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you! Mobil 1 High Mileage (5 quart container): amzn.to/3i3TvxH Mobil 1 (6, 1-quart containers): amzn.to/3Vk91Em SuperTech Motor Oil: Available at Walmart
@@ProjectFarm I always wonder how much time it takes for recording , testing, editing, uploading etc... and what your doing whilest waiting for tests to finish.
You do such a great job, and you don’t waste the viewers’ time with a single extra word. You get all the information out very quickly and concisely. Your time and eneregy and knowledge are much appreciated.
Being in climate that regularly hits -40⁰ F in winter, I'm always interested in the cold weather performance. So thankful for all the work you put into these tests.
@@GT-mn3bx Amsoil has three levels of oils. So what if they buy from Mobil where else do you buy that stuff from?? Their signature oil is the best in extreme cold
High mileage oils aren't meant to stop leaks, they're meant to prevent leaks with additive seal conditioners that help the seal stay pliable rather than drying and cracking or become inflexible. If you have a leak it's already too late and you just need a new seal/gasket. This has been my experience at least. In one of my newer KIA engines, using high mileage has actually reduced the oil burning to near nothing. Pretty impressive for the little boost it's supposed to give.
But then why are there be a need for high mileage engine oil vs not? Just marketing? If it preventative only, then the needs of an engine at low mileage should be the same as high mileage.
Over 75,000 miles is "high mileage"? These oil companies need to get on the level with Japanese cars where anything below 150,000 miles is "low mileage".
@@SconnieFish Those vehicles then get shipped and sold used in other markets though. That's just Japan. Same way houses there aren't an investment and eventually get destroyed after a number of decades.
I think it would be very interesting to see a comparison of OEM oils (all the same weight) such as Honda, Mopar, GM, etc., maybe with Mobil 1 or something else thrown in as well. There are some folks that are religious with using OEM oils when it probably isn't necessary.
I will second this great suggestion. I think you have just shown here that high mileage formulas don't do any harm, but they aren't essential either. I have had six Honda V6 vehicles in the past 20 years, changing oil according to the onboard reminders. Our 2006 Odyssey went 200K miles using recommended 5W-20 synthetic blend, and never needed to add oil. A 2013 Accord I drive daily gets the recommended 0W-20 full synthetic. At 125K miles and 10 years, it burns no oil, leaks no oil, runs like new, and gets the same mileage. I see no reason to use high mileage oil!
I've never been an oem oil person, but our Mazda original 0W-30 oem oil IS considerably smoother between the fingers and has lower fuel consumption at new and before change than the generic crap we've endured a few times from our shop. Same car 160000 km and soon five years. The Mazda original stuff is stupid slick with the, very high tech, finger test at least. :P
I work at an auto parts store, so these oil videos and other car related ones have really helped. I recommend the 3M headlight restoration system all the time thanks to you. So, thank you for helping me help my customers make an informed purchase 😊
It's so nice to have an employee that can give an actual informed product recommendation instead of being clueless and BSing you. They should pay you for your time to watch Project Farm.
Your testing methods are some of the best out there. Many times I have referenced your videos when picking certain products and so far I have not be let down!
Hi there! I happen to do laboratory testing on rubber compounds as a career. I noticed when you were testing the hardness of the rubber tire chunks, you left the durometer on the pieces for some time before concluding the value. If you want to get a value that might correlate more closely with other laboratories, ASTM procedure is to press a Shore A durometer (the one featured here) into the specimen and record either the maximum reading or the reading after one (1) second under 1kg (2.2lbs). I’m really sorry if this comes off as condescending, I’m just a fan of the show and it’s exciting to see my job’s work done here.
Good thing this isn't an ASTM test but a comparative test, so all that matters is all samples were done as close to the same methods within the scope of this test. Nobody is trying to compare these tests to unrelated tests which is the only point of standards with national or global scope.
Your motor oil tests have been incredibly thorough and informative. Better than anything on the internet and have changed my buying habits. I would love to see oil filters next as there is so much marketing material out there but no true head to head tests. Thanks for everything you do!
If you do happen to take this on I am curious how premium filters like Amsoil, Napa Gold / Wix, Napa Platinum / Wix XP, Fram Ultra, Mobil 1, Royal Purple compare. Also, would be interesting how premium filters stack up against the budget options like Fram Extra and Super Tech. I am sure others can think of more.
Been using Mobile One high mileage in my 2005 tacoma ever since it hit 75,000 miles. Its been a great oil. I've got 270,000 miles on it now and it doesn't burn oil and no leaks. Hoping to hit 300,000 in a couple years. Thanks for the great videos. Trust project farm above all the "consumer report" companies.
@@spoony8232 312k km is around 200k miles, most cars arent that high but theyre not that rare especially commercial vehicles, 300-500k miles are the rare ones. all depends on how its treated and maintained my suv is at 171k miles(275k km) right now
@@spoony8232 yep I would only start using a high mileage if I noticed oil leaks, problem is once you start you can't stop from what I've heard, since you're swelling the seals.
Great solution to a non-existing problem. Still waiting for my 150k miles Audi to add some black color to the oil, its still brown and transparent 1000 miles after oil change, there should be enough residue inside an engine that old to immediately make the oil black, and there would be on most other cars. People need to stop listening to clowns like Scotty K and start buying decent quality cars, my other cars are both VW and goes 20k miles between oil changes without refill (obviously they needed refíll when they were fairly new, the engines are made that way and consumption stops after 10-40k miles)
@Vadim123XxX the UK average mileage per year is approx 6500 compared to usa average miles per year at 14200 the UK average age of vehicle is 8.4 years (53300 miles) compared to USA average age of 12.2 years(173,000 miles). so basically the UK doesnt have old high-mileage vehicles compared to the united states.
@@pflaffik Guess I'm a clown. In the business working on Euro, domestic, and Asian for 33 years and now a tech line. Never cared for the quality of most Euro cars when compared to domestic and Asian. Plastic and gaskets seem to challenge those manufacturers. Love making money on them though.
A cool test would be diesel oil vs car oil. Diesel oil doesn't have to protect a catalytic converter and its additive package is very robust to handle soot and high demand diesel engines. Many of us use it in small engines vs the cheap gas engine oil. Great video as always!
@@GlennC789 it would be interesting to see if say a hot air cooled engine run for the same amount of abuse in each oil which one was better. Diesel vs gas oil..The v twin on my big zero turn starts with cold oil is quiet but after you're done working it you can hear each mechanical part 😁
I put on about 250-300 miles a day on my car, I've only ever used mobile one full synthetic with a wix filter. Almost 260k miles and runs strong! I've always loved these comparisons they taught me that you'll spend money on the things you care about that includes oil and filters for me lol
If you’re driving that much you should either move closer to your job or find a more efficient way to travel. It’s unreasonable to generate that much pollution for one person
There are lots of oil leak stoppers and seal rejuvenating products on the market. Would be cool to see a number of them tested scientifically. AT-205 reseal is so far the only product I've used that actually stopped a severe oil leak.
The additives used in high mileage oil do not permanently stop oil leaks, they only have a bit more additive that swells the seals compared to regular motor oil. Also, if the seals are swelled from using high mileage oil, they will likely shrink a bit (causing problems) if you stop using high mileage oil after that.
I'd love to see oil showdown series for gear oil and automatic transmission fluids! I think it would be a hit as everyone seems to be VERY cautious and picky about their transmission fluids..specifically i'd like to see comparisons of the OEM fluids against the other brands that sell advertised equivalents, like Carquest, Valvoline Maxlife, and Amsoil to name a few. Great video as always!
I'd appreciate this as well, I use Valvoline maxlife in my Honda and I noticed when comparing it to Hondas OEM fluid it has a slightly lower viscosity, having some Lucas stop slip laying around I put a small amount in to thicken er up
I just drained my manual gear oil on my 08 Ford escape 5 speed 180k..was getting grinding shifting in second when cold out .I used the recommended Ford motorcraft .haven't driven it yet .better work cause them 3 quarts costs 100 bucks
Gear/diff oil is a good idea, automatic transmission fuids - not sure there's much of a point. There are so many different transmission designs and fluid specs. While one transmission fluid may function and seem like it's doing well in a certain design, doesn't mean it's going to be the best choice for the long term no matter what cold flow or wear test results return. Edit: Case in point above, poster is curious on Valvoline Maxlife vs Honda, presumably DW-1. Valvoline has stopped recommending this fluid as a replacement for DW-1 on their compatability chart as of 10/25/22.
It’s also very appreciated that you stuck it at the end of the video, I can’t express enough how annoying advertisements of any kind early or mid through the video just make me want to click off or skip, if people like the content they watch to the end, that’s important since the people who care and want to support will see it (me)
I'm always interested to see reviews on Super Tech products as they're what I always use on my vehicles, simply because of the affordability. I regularly drive over 3k miles in a month in my personal vehicle and have to do oil changes often to keep it running smoothly; In the 6+ years that I've used ST oil and filters across several different vehicles and thousands of miles, I've never experienced any issues that could be traced back to or blamed on inferior oil quality (knock on wood).
I have been using Mobil 1 for many years now at the suggestion of a mechanic. Literally every time I go buy oil I have these two questions about SuperTech vs Mobil One given the price, and high mileage vs regular! Thank you Sir.
I just bought Supertech for the first time. I'm not doing any extended drain intervals on this vehicle (GDI, turbocharged), so I think/hope they will perform equivalently.
Diesel oils do have higher ZZDP in them, much more so then modern GF6A gasoline oils, but modern diesel oils do not have the same amounts they used to have. Diesel oils may contribute to LSPI in direct injection gas engines as well as contribute to catalytic converter contamination.
I've used Super-tech for 15 years... high mileage for 10 years ...100,000 miles + per year...7,500 miles on average between oil changes...zero engine issues
@@ProjectFarm hey Todd, would you consider testing the new Milwaukee "Nitrus" Carbide blades and the "Amped" diablo blades and if there are any equivalents from Lenox etc. Both the metal cutting blades and the multipurpose "Wrecker" blades. Thanks
This channel is truly a blessing since I’m just now working on my tool set out of tech school! I watch every video and I am amazed by the actual effort and time put into each and every video, It’s insane! Don’t know if you’ll see this but hope you had a great thanksgiving and thanks for giving us great content!
@@facial210 so far I love the gear wrench ratchet set I bought all 3 of them for under 100 dollars are they are great!! I also bought the Daytona super duty jack from harbor freight! So far they are both great quality.
@@Zuccleberry I have the Audew 20,000mah jump starter and I use Pennzoil platinum synthetic. But I have a list for motorcycle tools and it's Anything- VIM Tools Knipex Wera Here is the wishlist 711L EDC Ratchet. Amazon. W nM torque ad --WERA Hex + Allen wrench set-- --WERA Tool Check Plus& 8008A Ratchet dieZelle57-- WERA Turbo WERA Zyklops metric Knipex Twin Grip pliers --Knipex Cobra XS pliers-- Hazet 4pc Adapter set Klein 65200 bit ratchet set VIM RFBK400 long handle mini ratchet VIM ujet swivel adapters VIM VHC77 set is 🙂 nice Olsa Gearless Ratchet VIM TOOLS DD3 3/8" DUAL DRIVE MICRO RATCHET
I've been using the Mobil 1 High Mileage in my car for a while now, so nice to know it actually has some tangible benefits! Too bad the car is rusting away to nothing, but at least the engine runs. Thanks for the info!
The high mileage and seal conditioning aspect is STILL questionable, even after all these tests. Doesn’t prove jack. The lab results are all “within the noise” and also don’t show the high mileage oil as being LOADED with extra additives. I’ve never used a high mileage oil in any of my engines. Even the one with 350,000 miles on it. I replace seals when they leak. 🤷🏻♂️
I started using Pennsoil Platinum High Mileage Synthetic 0w-20 oil in my 2015 Lexus RX350 with 166K miles with no issues. Pennsoil synthetic oils are the cleanest of all oils.
The original oil comparison series was great and really opened my eyes about the different oils out there. I really enjoyed this refined head to head test. The Amazon Basic and Supertech have been my go to for quite some time as I have 5 cars and multiple small engines to keep up with and price is a factor.
@@mimibuick ..that's what I have heard, also..but there's not a Costco around here within a hundred miles or more...there's at least 10 Walmart's within a 50 mile radius....
I have been using Supertech for all my cars as well but nowadays price has shot up to over 20$ per 5 quartz. Last years it was around 17$ and I actually got 4 for 3 of my cars. Now cost 4$ more in 2022.
I bought a 2007 f150 with around 150k miles on it in 2021. I’ve only used the SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic oil with Lucas oil stabilizer in it since I bought it (5 qts to 1 qt). 3 years later it’s still running great, has over 230k miles on it and I just got back from a 2200 mile trip in it. I regularly run it on long highway trips, tow trailers, haul heavy loads, etc. SuperTech is definitely a good oil.
The thorough approach down to the little details like swapping the pots in the same order every time is always impressive. The regular Mobil 1 pouring out so slowly was pretty weird, but given that it happened twice, I can't imagine it was any sort of mistake on your end, especially with the track record you have. Another fantastic Project Farm video!
That bottle simply had 5w30 in the thicker range (almost a 40 grade) vs the other oils which were obviously in the thinner scale of 30 and thus, were able to pour sooner. 👍🏼 It was very strange to see the others FINISH before that Mobil 1 even STARTED! 😳🧐🤷🏻♂️
I did a paper in college about engine oils and interviewed a chemical engineer. I was told high mileage oils contain solvents that soften seals as your tests indicate. However I was also told that extended use causes the seals to soften to the point they fall apart. As an anecdote I knew an oil change tech that put high mileage oil in her new truck since she bought it new and after a few years it leaked from every seal imaginable .
So basically switch it up then? Use regular full synthetic oil for a couple of oil changes and then switch to high mileage. Just keep alternating between the two?
@@AustinsCoins I think where most people go wrong is they do not maintain a strict oil change schedule. some people claim you can go 10k miles without changing your oil and I find that to be a total crock of shit. well you can, but you'll likely be left little oil in the engine after 10k miles. change your oil every 5k miles, stick to one brand of oil and a filter and routinely check all your fluids. if properly maintenance your vehicle from new the engine itself should last a very long time.
As a man who has probably outlived his expiration date I've found the best oil is the one that's on sale that week and just be sure to change your oil regularly.
As long as the oil you buy meets the required spec ex. (ILSAC GF-6A) and you change it on time, you should have nothing to worry about. I always use the severe duty maintenance schedule provided by the manufacturer and never had an engine burn a drop of oil. I am also way past my expiration date.
I would love to see a Valvoline oil test for the full syn and high mileage versions. I've switched to Valvoline a few years ago with great results when I noticed Mobil 1 was evaporating 2 quarts over 5k miles and burning darker than it used to. I'd also like to see a battery test between Optima Yellow Top with other hi-po batteries. Great work Ozzie!
@@Namedeeznuts Mobile 1 high mileage I left in my Trailblazer for 20-30k miles. Once the change oil light came on I changed it. I checked my oil often, of course, to ensure it wasn't low. When it was a quart low after around 5-8k miles, I'd add a quart. He tested different oil than I got since it was 15k oil. Most my miles were highway. Prior to switching to the high mile I used the regular 5k mobile 1 and the change oil light would come on around 4k miles. From 220,000 to 316,000 miles the high mileage gave me 20-30,000 miles before the change oil light came on. More city driving the oil broke down more than straight highway. I won't use anything else. Though I would if any gasket in my vehicle has cork gaskets.
@@nickgoode8579 3,000 to 5,000 miles isnt an uncommon number to change oil here in the states. Some of us change oil every 3-6 months reguardless of mileage as well.
As winter is rolling around it would be nice to see a update on the old battery tests for both car and rechargeables that were laid to fallow. Good tests as always!
Love your content man , i cant stress enough how much of a help you are for DIYers like myself, keep up the great work and I hope to see more content . one of my requests are a review of the black and decker combi drill , it had different attachments to use , please give it a review thanks!
Another great test! I have been using Walmart synthetic for years and I am very satisfied with the results so far. I don’t know if it’s a local thing but the closest Walmart is selling Mobil 1 cheaper than the store brand so now I’m using Mobil 1 again. Both of my vehicles have over 200,000 miles and they both are spotless inside and no leaks. I did replace the valve cover gaskets on both vehicles last year. I keep hearing that my engine will surely explode any second because I only change my oil every 10,000 miles but I don’t see any need to change it more often because it isn’t even showing signs of breakdown or contamination at 10,000. 3000 mile intervals are for antique cars that don’t have a PCV system and sequential fuel injection but there are still plenty of dinosaurs who still believe 3000 miles is a universal law of physics.
@@tooltime9260 I used to work for a big fleet operation that did lots of oil testing. I learned that there are too many factors to worry about a set number. One prime example goes like this. We had similar equipment with Japanese diesel engines. Both brands had roughly the same horsepower rating and were used to do the same job. Both had 25 hour oil change intervals but after 25 hours the oil in one brand looked like roof tar and the other looked like it was just poured from the bottle. I was intrigued so I did some research and found out that one of the two was rated at 22 horsepower but the engine was actually rated at 36 horsepower. My conclusion is that engine load is the biggest factor.
Had a 2001 Ford Focus with the Zetec engine. As I was driving a 135 mile round trip commute daily, I would put 12-13k miles between oil changes using Mobil 1. My thinking was engine hours vs mileage. Got 400k miles out of that car before the rust took it, still ran great, no engine noise. Currently use a store brand synthetic in my beater vehicles and Mobil 1 in my "good" vehicles...but after seeing the cold flow test, I'm wondering.....
With a little tuned 4 cylinder making 310 hp and 375 ft lbs.. I change my oil every 3000 miles. For my peace of mind. 30K miles and catch can is still dry.
I use Mobil 1 high mileage in my boat, going on 12 years now. My logic was the boat sits all winter long (I start the engine a couple times during the off season) and thought the added protection would add life to both engine and seals. After watching this informative video it looks like I made a wise choice...
I'm sure you've had it suggested but air compressor oils would be interesting to see tested. Especially synthetic vs conventional. Good work as always!
I would not recommend this but I put only Marvel Mystery Oil in my 5 HP Sears air compressor 40 years ago and it’s still going strong. Never added or or changed it. I built 2 airplanes with it. Love your show.
@@dalecombs9706 marvel air tool oil has kept my tools and others from breaking or being ruined by water in the line. Tons of times I've used it to free up frozen/dried up air tools. Miracle stuff. Seen mystery oil free up oil rings on cars 90+ years old.
After your oil comparison video, I switched from Mobil 1 to Supertech full synthetic oil 2 years ago. It used to be $13/5 quarts like 2 years ago. It is now $26/5 quarts. I switched back to Mobil 1 since Walmart sells it for $24/5 quarts.
Being an engineer in a consumer world, I just love Ozzie's (Todd's) Project Farm reviews. They're very empirical and information packed. When half awake before coffee, I often watch them at .5x or .75x speed to allow them to soak in. After coffee, full speed ahead. Thanks very much Ozzie (Todd)!
Love the oil comparison videos great work as always i think this like the only channel on youtube who takes the time to go through everything and be consistent and dude literally thinks of everything
So high mileage oil of both Supertech and Mobile 1 were only 1/10 of a point better than regular synthetic. After watching this I'm more confident sticking with regular Supertech when considering the cost difference. I change my oil every 3000 period which puts you even more in the safe zone. Other engine test videos have shown going 10,000 miles between oil changes clogs the oil rings on your pistons regardless of brand.
@@arthur.monticelli oreilys and autozone mark up mobile one from like 26$ to 37-38$ so when you see superttech next to it for 25$ people seem to buy it. I have autozone price match my mobile 1 and pensoil to Walmart prices and when they say they can’t do it I’ll leave it and go to a Walmart for my oil
I use the Castrol High Mileage in my 2010 Mazda3 5spd. I just hit 130k. I've always figured a few extra preventative additives in the oil couldn't hurt for the same price. Nice vid, thanks 👍
I do the same with my 02 4.7 dodge dakota, sea foam, marvel mystery oil and the Lucas oil additives the stuff isn't crazy expensive so why not add it to my aging motor. At the very worst it just doesn't have any benefits but I think they all keep my motor clean and running good
I've been using Super tech in my vehicles for a few years now. No complaints. Performs well. My only nit to pick is the clear plastic shrink wrap seal. More than once it's come off kinda shredded and ended up in the jug! But, that's operator error on my part.
I remember when STP came out with25,000 mile oil it was all my Dad ran in his Datsun pickup. He started noticing it was vanishing so he bought cases whenever he found it. When he would change his oil it was slightly dark but never dirty. He figured it was so good that it threatened other oils.
Mobil 1 when it was first introduced in the early 70's was rated for 25,000 miles. The auto industry and the oil industry raised a big fuss about it and that it would cost dealers and service stations money. ( Source- My dad was SAE Lube engineer for Sinclair and BP and friends with the folks at Mobil that developed Mobil 1. He was later VP of Sales for BP NA. )
Mobil 1 had a 20,000 mile oil a few years ago, but it was expensive and didn’t sell. People who change their own oil didn’t want it, and lube shops definitely didn’t!
Funny how that works. It's just a money maker but, 99% of people aren't smart enough to realize that. My dad did oil changes every 30k on his vans. When he sold his one van it had 580k. Engine was never opened and ran like new. He did 170k on his box truck. There was no sludge. That truck has 250-300k miles and has never had an issue. There is a website for a million mile Ford van. It did almost 1.3 million until the oil pump seized. Engine was untouched. A couple of times he did 55k on oil and, it still did just shy of 1.3 million.
@@karlhopkins713 I have a Ford Fusion plug-in hybrid with 120k miles that has had 5 oil changes in its life (I've historically gone by when it tells me to change it as the manual tells you to do). So that's about 25k on average (but about 30% of that is EV miles) but she does consume oil now though, about a half quart every thousand miles. So it's making me wish I would have changed it more and not trusted the manual. But it's not the end of the world. I'll go about 10k or less now I think. I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid that consumes about the same but with nearly 300k miles (and it always has consumed a bit).
My 2014 F-150 with the 5.0 has been getting full synthetic since it hit 100,000km and then I switched to extended performance and now extended performance/high mileage. No leaks and I’m happy with the oil even though the regular price is pretty high (I buy it on sale which is about 50% off).
@@jacobweber9956 that’s a fair proposition. I’ve personally noticed that the extended performance and extended performance/high mileage oils both tend to remain ‘clearer’ for longer than plain old full synthetic and much longer than normal oil. I am a truck driver and equipment operator so I check the oil regularly, and keep track of such things.
@@user-bj9qr9og4b if it doesn’t maintain its integrity it tells you by how ugly it appears. You CAN tell some things from oil colour and consistency but not everything. The longer it’s clear-ish can mean the engine isn’t producing as much crap or the oil is exceptionally engineered…and synthetic oil IS engineered to give specific results.
I've been running Valvoline high mileage synthetic in my Jeep JK with the 3.8 mini van engine. Not because I expected any improvement but because Walmart sells it at a way lower price because no one wants it. Working good so far.
Your testing procedures provide very accurate information and I appreciate your efforts to keep your viewers in the know. I've always used used full synthetic oils in my cars since the mid 80's and swear by them, especially Mobil I.
This is why I love this channel. You just can't get this stuff anywhere else lol and the thing is.....I don't think anyone can really argue with the process that these tests are done with. Great job dude. Never stop doing these tests 👌🏻
Except the flow test seemed flawed. That third pipe appeared to hold the oil back. Once it hit the metal ramp it flowed just as quickly as the others as could be seen by the bubbles. Also, there are many other tests that can and should be done on oils to measure their performance in the following areas: Oil viscosity and lubricity Oxidation stability Acidity and/or alkalinity Pour, flash and fire point Soluble and insoluble contaminants Air release and foaming characteristics Anti-corrosion and anti-rust characteristics Anti-wear and extreme-pressure characteristics Water separability and emulsibility characteristics Relative cold-weather operating characteristics
Thank you for this test, I use the Super Tech High Mileage and take Scotty's advice and change it every 5,000 miles on my 08 Highlander with 230k miles with no oil burning.
I literally thought they were all the same… basically. If you think about how often the oil is changed in a vehicle through its lifetime the small differences add up to make a very big difference! Thank you again for some really valuable information !
Thank you for the content. Ive been turning wrenches over 20 years. My experience has taught me checking your oil and changing it frequently is more important than the brand. Also, with newer cars, always minus a few thousand miles from what the manufacturer recommends on oil changes. If they recommend 8k, do 6k.
There’s a Master Toyota tech on YT who’d agree with you and say change it more frequently than manufacturers recommendations. Apparently, newer tech engines are tougher on oil and require more frequent changes.
@@alexnutcasio936 If you look at the oil change frequency recommendations, most have 2 regular driving, and severe conditions. Most people probably drive the more severe (short trips, dusty conditions, extended idling, low speed, stop and go) conditions.
Given the increasing reliance on oil's hydraulic properties, an additional suite of tests measuring changes in that property after heating/freezing would be a great addition to these fantastic videos.
Project Farm did a great job as usual. Oils today are outstanding. Only thing that hasn't changed is, oil isn't changed because it worn out, it's changed because it's dirty. While alot of todays oils can easily go 12,000 to 15,000 miles and some even more, the damage by the dirt in that oil just isn't worth it. Good conventional oil and a good filter every 4,000 miles to me is a no brainer.
My thoughts exactly. Carbon build-up happens to even perfectly maintained engines over time. It's just the reality of high temps and internal combustion. I've never gone longer than five thousand miles between oil changes, max, and that's pushing it.
You should do more high mileage oil brands like royal purple, amsoil, Castrol, Pennzoil, Costco brand. If they all have high mileage with the dexos certification. I'd be interested in seeing if they effect oil pressure at all in a running engine. At cold and hot temperature. Definitely could be an interesting test.
Great info! I used Super tech in all my vehicles for a couple of years with no problems. My only issue is, I dropped that plastic seal in the jug whilst removing it about 3 times...no matter how carefully I tried to peel it off. So, I moved on to Napa Full Synth HM. Price update April 2024: M1 HM is $35.99
@@BikerJim74 then why are u here? U should be busy creating new, informative videos on your channel and providing the results to an audience for free. All at your own expense. Lots of great educational videos on your channel already i see...🤨 "Ella" 😂
Been watching your tests for some time now and I love how thorough you are - what I love even more is how you engage with the community and continuously perfect your craft! That being said, can we get one on oil filters? 🙃
If you do test oil filters, please include a selection of OEM filters. I suspect that many people want the best oil filter they can get, sO telling them which non-OEM filter is best would just leave them in a dilemma as to whether they should buy that or OEM.
I love your oil tests. I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum after 25 years of Mobil 1 before you did your last test. You've always done it with 5W30. I'd be curious to see results with different viscosities from similar brands. Like 0W20 vs 0W30 vs 0W40 for example, to see if they differ from the 5W30. Not so much the wear and viscosity, but the additives more so.
@@charliehotel2197 Honestly I switched to Pennzoil around a decade ago because it was cheaper than Mobil 1. Since it was no longer the real synthetic it was when I began using it, why pay the price. At 80K with Ultra Platinum from the first oil change, I saw how clean the top end of my engine was while replacing the valve cover gasket. It looked new. Not a deposit, discoloration, or wear to be seen.
I truly appreciate all the hard work and thought that he puts into the videos. The lengths that you go to in order to test all different products shows the dedication you have to bringing us honest reviews of products. The fact that you always reply to almost every comment and always take into consideration what people say makes you genuine and authentic. Which is such a breath of fresh air in a world full of people taking selfies and tik-tok nonsense. Thank you for always keeping it real!
I can't believe how far you've gone, congratulations! This one surely brings back memories to the early days, and probably one of the oldest PF test rig right there.
My Lexus has 246k miles on it. I change the oil regularly and when my engine is on, or idling, you can’t even hear anything. It’s quiet but now I’m gonna use the high mileage Mobile 1 oil
Thank you so much for providing bias free data driven evaluations. Am a patron supporter and feel it’s worth more than a consumer reports subscription. I have been watching for a few years keep up the good work. Maybe an cabin filter and air filer test and a value wiper test as suggestions.
I'd love to see tests on the Lucas Oil additives. I bought their "Transmission Fix" for my 2011 Mitsubishi 4x4 Pajero and saw a significant smoother shifting in the automatic transmission to the point that sometimes I can't even feel it, whilst before it was draggy, and I could feel every shift as punch. The other was their "Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer", which in my Chevy Blazer 1996 V6 engine, it seemed to start smoother and also would rotate for a very observable amount of time after shutting down the engine.
Another great suggestion. I've personally been skeptical of Lucas, but people say good things. But then some people say stupid things, as well. A perfect idea for something to test.
My stepdad has that old head mentality with the Lucas stuff. Kinda got used to it so I use it on everything. My Supercharged mustang needs 6 quarts and I always do 5 quarts oil and 1 of that Lucas heavy oil stabilizer. Not sure if it’s hurting the engine but my thought process is “I already go 5w higher why not the “extra” protection.” I do my oil changes every 2,500 miles doe since it’s a daily I occasionally do pulls in. Barely hit 69k miles but I’ve been using high mileage oil since I got it with 60k.
HEY! I have a subaru as well. fairly new still -- 30k miles, no issues yet! At what odometer did you start using HM oil? I know the jug says 75k miles, but is there any downside into using HM oil at, let say, 50k? probably a silly question, but I thought id ask
@@MarksTech I can't imagine any detrimental effects of using it in a younger or lower mileage engine, but I don't think a high milage formulation is even worthy of considering until 80k+. I starting using it long ago, but surely not that early. I wouldn't stress to much.
Wow! That was everything and more I ever wanted to know about motor oil. My corvette spells out out Mobil 1, so that is what I will use. 39k on it so I'm sticking with the standard formula. Thanks for investing so much time into this presentation.
Very interesting. So, here is my question. Wouldn't using high mileage oil right from the get go (new vehicle) give you the best long term anti-wear protection? (Compared to using normal synthetic up until like 75k miles when the oil states you should start using it). Why would you not use high mileage oil all the time if they preform better at lower temperatures, and also have more anti-wear properties working in their favor?
@@JohnDoe-ej3wp but viscosity is the same so thickness shouldn't matter, looks like the high mileage oils performed better anyway - especially in cold temps, maybe there's a point about deposits.
The initial frozen flow test was interesting. That was a day and night difference for Mobil and basically none for SuperTech. But once it was used the difference was drastically lower. Really interesting.
@Bloody Mobile That just shows that the first number is when oil is hot and fluid, the second number, higher viscosity, is thick when cold. The funny part about that. People will always say that is wrong, even with proof.
@@scott5799 Not my first rodeo. Is it your first rodeo on what viscosity is, and what a low number means with viscosity? If the first number in oil is when it's cold as people think, then why is it so thick when cold? At the same time why is the second number as people think, is when the oil is hot it gets thick. I would love to hear what kind of oil gets thicker with heat, and thiner with cold.
Surprising results of the Mobil 1 during -40. I wonder what other synthetics do at that temp. I've always suspected the synthetic I've been using doesn't flow well in cold temps as it seems unusually hard starting if it's not plugged in. Especially 5W30 Dexos2 (not Dexos 1 Gen2).
@@Glenb13 They are constantly changing base oils (and a mix thereof) which can significant;y alter cold flow characteristics. This is most likely why the non-Dexos flowed so much better at -40 being that it's mainly NGTL base.
typically they have to use the better base oils to hit that 5w compared to 10w. wonder if the dexos testing is less strigent in super low temp flow testing
Thanks for another great video, Todd. My car is an '07 Civic, and has 318,000km on it (almost 200k miles), so I found this video very helpful and informative 👍
High mileage oil isn't just for cars with high mileage either. We have a 2015 Santa Fe Sport 2.0 Turbo with 120k km on it. Took it on a cross-Canada drive (Vancouver to Quebec, approx 5,000 km one way). Using regular oil of the recommended viscosity (5W30, I think it was) we were going through about half or more of a litre of oil per tank of gas. We did some research at the hotel 2 or 3 nights in and found that high mileage oil is recommended for those engines, so we switched. Barely burned any oil after that.
I like how quick, thorough, and straight-to-the-point this guy is with the tests... and also unbiased towards the products which to me gets "the seal of approval" in regards to the attention to details. Well done, sir. 👍
I like watching your test and learning facts about products. Ty for the content! Before this test I would never consider using Walmart brand oil in my car or lawnmower even . Super tech does not look too bad much better than some of the other oils you’ve tested in the past!
I would have liked to see something using Amazon Basic. That's all I use now (their high mileage variant), based on your earlier tests confirming that it's a superior product. Great work as always!
Pretty cool results. Before I became an ASE certified mechanic I worked in lube shops so this is neat to see. If you do this again in the future, maybe suspend the O-rings from the top so they're not directly in contact with the glass right above the heating element. That might give a slightly different result. Or not whos knows lol! Always enjoy your videos!
@Project Farm no problem my friend I appreciate all you do for us TH-camrs! One thing I've been interested in as of late is, testing the anti-foaming abilities in oils being these newer cars tend to run higher RPM, and hotter etc. A windage tray helps with that but was always curious if conventional vs synthetic etc makes a difference. Just a thought. Thanks buddy
That’s a good idea. Especially considering how many turbocharged engines there are today, which will all have some level of fuel dilution during an OCI
Amsoil and Pennzoil both have a 0W16. I would love to see how their 0W16 does against their own fantastic Amsoil Signature 0W20 and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W20. Thanks again for the amazing reviews
0w16 is to meet CAFE emissions. So it is beneficial for the manufacturer to spec thinner oil for microscopic MPG gains but there is no real tangible benefit for an individual consumer to actually use 0w16 instead of 0w20.
I swear by these tests...never been disappointed and its so nice to have a guide when deciding what to buy. Now my old 86 B2200 is getting Mobil HM :) Thanks so much PF 😀
Thanks bro! I'm amazed at the time and thoroughness you put into these tests! most people would never do these nor would they ever Know what the true unbiased results were.. Very densely packed with valuable info! As a long time user of the supertech full synthetic , ive tried the high mileage version from time to time although I never Knew what real,if any benefits it offered...For the record, we have a 94 ford probe gt at 250k mi and a ford focus zetec at over 350k mi , both daily driven... The probe gt has recently started to puff some white smoke, just alittle and briefy during initial startup, probably valve guides... the focus however burns no oil ,no smoke ever and the engine feels like a car with 50k mi on it... oil changes with filter usually done at 5k mi...new sub here!
One showdown in particular I’d like to see is the Pennzoil High Mileage vs Ultra Platinum, since that was the second best for the oil showdown you did a while ago.
Looks like I’ll be using Mobil 1 high mileage from now on. I drive a 2009 Acura TSX and it churns through oil because of an engine recall. I’ve used Mobil 1 in the past and it had far superior life between adding oil compared to castrol high mileage
Sure there are oils better than some but nothing stands up to just changing your oil like you should. Great videos I seriously value your opinion and channel
@@pgmurray76 that should go without saying. but no one does, they figure you should never need to check between changes. And they can many times get away with that at 3-4-5 k mile oil changes. But no one really understands how an engine works, oil has to lubricate the pistons, rings & cylinder walls, so a small amount gets by the rings and burns up in the combustion chambers on each stroke. And if an oil is run long enough it will volatilize off some of the lighter fractions, that is normal for regular 4$ oils and to a far lesser degree with premium synthetics.
Here’s the list of products reviewed. More details in the video description. Thank you!
Mobil 1 High Mileage (5 quart container): amzn.to/3i3TvxH
Mobil 1 (6, 1-quart containers): amzn.to/3Vk91Em
SuperTech Motor Oil: Available at Walmart
How many other people are here using Project Farm as a gauge for what to buy and what the difference between stuff is? 😅
Thank you very much! I'm glad the reviews are helping people make informed buying decisions!
Um... Everyone. 😉
Exactly! 👍👍👍
Just purchased a benchmade gripzilian pocket knife.
I bought a $90 knife sharpener because of this guy. 3 months and yet to use it but I can’t wait 😂
We must protect this man at all costs. Thank you sir for your unbiased and thorough videos.
You are welcome!
Yeah, keep him away from any experimental shots.
I appreciate all the hours, days, weeks and money spent in all your videos to either entertain us, educate or both all composed in a 10 minute video
Thanks so much!
@@ProjectFarm I always wonder how much time it takes for recording , testing, editing, uploading etc... and what your doing whilest waiting for tests to finish.
You do such a great job, and you don’t waste the viewers’ time with a single extra word. You get all the information out very quickly and concisely. Your time and eneregy and knowledge are much appreciated.
Thanks so much!
Being in climate that regularly hits -40⁰ F in winter, I'm always interested in the cold weather performance.
So thankful for all the work you put into these tests.
One word Amsoil
@@bigdaddymak1439 Waste of money. Better off using a 0wXX oil when that cold. Amsoil still buying base stock from Mobil.
Brrrrrrrrr! Ouch. Lol.
@@GT-mn3bx Amsoil has three levels of oils. So what if they buy from Mobil where else do you buy that stuff from?? Their signature oil is the best in extreme cold
Pennzoil Ultra is your friend.
I think every manufacturer needs to strive to get the “Project Farm Seal of Approval”
Thanks!
LMAO!
Too right!
Yes sir
@@robbydiesel9345 that's not the greatest endorsement 😆
😂
High mileage oils aren't meant to stop leaks, they're meant to prevent leaks with additive seal conditioners that help the seal stay pliable rather than drying and cracking or become inflexible. If you have a leak it's already too late and you just need a new seal/gasket. This has been my experience at least. In one of my newer KIA engines, using high mileage has actually reduced the oil burning to near nothing. Pretty impressive for the little boost it's supposed to give.
Thanks for the feedback.
Why does it "burn" oil ? Valve stem seals?
But then why are there be a need for high mileage engine oil vs not? Just marketing? If it preventative only, then the needs of an engine at low mileage should be the same as high mileage.
@@ccbowers *BMW has entered the chat*
That lucas oil leak stop is supposed to work pretty good for that
Over 75,000 miles is "high mileage"? These oil companies need to get on the level with Japanese cars where anything below 150,000 miles is "low mileage".
Thanks for the feedback.
Sure man you wouldn't buy cars with 150k on them at msrp
But in Japan, they retire vehicles at 50,000 😂 that's the funny part, they engineer stuff to last much longer than the government lets them use it
337000 ks camry. Penrite 10w 40 semi synthetic. Should be 5w. Doesnt burn oil.
@@SconnieFish Those vehicles then get shipped and sold used in other markets though. That's just Japan. Same way houses there aren't an investment and eventually get destroyed after a number of decades.
I think it would be very interesting to see a comparison of OEM oils (all the same weight) such as Honda, Mopar, GM, etc., maybe with Mobil 1 or something else thrown in as well. There are some folks that are religious with using OEM oils when it probably isn't necessary.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I will second this great suggestion. I think you have just shown here that high mileage formulas don't do any harm, but they aren't essential either. I have had six Honda V6 vehicles in the past 20 years, changing oil according to the onboard reminders. Our 2006 Odyssey went 200K miles using recommended 5W-20 synthetic blend, and never needed to add oil. A 2013 Accord I drive daily gets the recommended 0W-20 full synthetic. At 125K miles and 10 years, it burns no oil, leaks no oil, runs like new, and gets the same mileage. I see no reason to use high mileage oil!
You can test that not your channel🤡
I've never been an oem oil person, but our Mazda original 0W-30 oem oil IS considerably smoother between the fingers and has lower fuel consumption at new and before change than the generic crap we've endured a few times from our shop. Same car 160000 km and soon five years. The Mazda original stuff is stupid slick with the, very high tech, finger test at least. :P
I think that vid would be cool to see.
I work at an auto parts store, so these oil videos and other car related ones have really helped. I recommend the 3M headlight restoration system all the time thanks to you. So, thank you for helping me help my customers make an informed purchase 😊
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing!
It's so nice to have an employee that can give an actual informed product recommendation instead of being clueless and BSing you.
They should pay you for your time to watch Project Farm.
wet sand with 2000, then buff with tooth paste and then wax
@@SpaceRanger187 buff with tooth paste. lmao.
I also work at an auto parts store and have been using project farm to recommend stuff to customers!
Your testing methods are some of the best out there. Many times I have referenced your videos when picking certain products and so far I have not be let down!
Thanks so much!
Hi there! I happen to do laboratory testing on rubber compounds as a career. I noticed when you were testing the hardness of the rubber tire chunks, you left the durometer on the pieces for some time before concluding the value. If you want to get a value that might correlate more closely with other laboratories, ASTM procedure is to press a Shore A durometer (the one featured here) into the specimen and record either the maximum reading or the reading after one (1) second under 1kg (2.2lbs). I’m really sorry if this comes off as condescending, I’m just a fan of the show and it’s exciting to see my job’s work done here.
Thanks for the constructive feedback.
Good thing this isn't an ASTM test but a comparative test, so all that matters is all samples were done as close to the same methods within the scope of this test. Nobody is trying to compare these tests to unrelated tests which is the only point of standards with national or global scope.
It is cool to 1. That PF tests are somewhat close to those of "experts" 2. The "pros" watch PF
INTELLEGENT , COGENT, ACCURATE REPLY! THANKS !@@Spudz76
Your motor oil tests have been incredibly thorough and informative. Better than anything on the internet and have changed my buying habits. I would love to see oil filters next as there is so much marketing material out there but no true head to head tests. Thanks for everything you do!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
oil filter shootout would be fantastic
Yes please do this!
,
If you do happen to take this on I am curious how premium filters like Amsoil, Napa Gold / Wix, Napa Platinum / Wix XP, Fram Ultra, Mobil 1, Royal Purple compare. Also, would be interesting how premium filters stack up against the budget options like Fram Extra and Super Tech. I am sure others can think of more.
Been using Mobile One high mileage in my 2005 tacoma ever since it hit 75,000 miles. Its been a great oil. I've got 270,000 miles on it now and it doesn't burn oil and no leaks. Hoping to hit 300,000 in a couple years. Thanks for the great videos. Trust project farm above all the "consumer report" companies.
Knowing Toyota reliability, you've probably got another solid 300k miles in it.
I've been using Mobil 1 for 30+ years. It's top notch.
You are welcome!
Why do people insist on making mobil.. into mobile ?? Its really odd
I have been using Pennzoil high mileage conventional, 370k miles now and doesn't burn a drop
As a bottom feeder in the car department with cars above 150k I've always wondered this. You add a lot of value to the curious community. Thank you!
I ran a car for 14 years and 312,000 km on normal synthetic with no issues.
You are welcome!
@@spoony8232 312k km is around 200k miles, most cars arent that high but theyre not that rare especially commercial vehicles, 300-500k miles are the rare ones. all depends on how its treated and maintained my suv is at 171k miles(275k km) right now
Bottom feeder checking in
@@spoony8232 yep I would only start using a high mileage if I noticed oil leaks, problem is once you start you can't stop from what I've heard, since you're swelling the seals.
Great job!!! Just started using high mileage mobil 1 in the Pontiac of 2004 with 46,000 miles and no problems. Great job again!!
Thanks! Thanks for sharing.
I use high mileage oils primarily to expand or enhance the camshaft seal and minimize the chance of oil leaks. Thanks for the video.
@Hazard maybe you guys just don’t buy into advertising like that. American advertising annoys me with the “super” claims
Great solution to a non-existing problem. Still waiting for my 150k miles Audi to add some black color to the oil, its still brown and transparent 1000 miles after oil change, there should be enough residue inside an engine that old to immediately make the oil black, and there would be on most other cars. People need to stop listening to clowns like Scotty K and start buying decent quality cars, my other cars are both VW and goes 20k miles between oil changes without refill (obviously they needed refíll when they were fairly new, the engines are made that way and consumption stops after 10-40k miles)
@Vadim123XxX the UK average mileage per year is approx 6500 compared to usa average miles per year at 14200 the UK average age of vehicle is 8.4 years (53300 miles) compared to USA average age of 12.2 years(173,000 miles). so basically the UK doesnt have old high-mileage vehicles compared to the united states.
@@pflaffik Guess I'm a clown. In the business working on Euro, domestic, and Asian for 33 years and now a tech line. Never cared for the quality of most Euro cars when compared to domestic and Asian. Plastic and gaskets seem to challenge those manufacturers. Love making money on them though.
You are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
A cool test would be diesel oil vs car oil. Diesel oil doesn't have to protect a catalytic converter and its additive package is very robust to handle soot and high demand diesel engines. Many of us use it in small engines vs the cheap gas engine oil. Great video as always!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
It's mainly alot more zinc. Good for pushrod engines and would probably do great on the scoring test.
@@ProjectFarm Also, Euro spec oil vs US would be a good one.
That would be a waste test. It’s not like you’ll change cars/engine because diesel oil came out to be better.
@@GlennC789 it would be interesting to see if say a hot air cooled engine run for the same amount of abuse in each oil which one was better. Diesel vs gas oil..The v twin on my big zero turn starts with cold oil is quiet but after you're done working it you can hear each mechanical part 😁
I put on about 250-300 miles a day on my car, I've only ever used mobile one full synthetic with a wix filter. Almost 260k miles and runs strong! I've always loved these comparisons they taught me that you'll spend money on the things you care about that includes oil and filters for me lol
Thanks for sharing.
If you’re driving that much you should either move closer to your job or find a more efficient way to travel. It’s unreasonable to generate that much pollution for one person
@@Lubbocksfinest Taking a plane ever day generates *hell* of a lot more pollution than driving that distance mate. So shush.
In my experience Wix filters are the best filters.
@@Lubbocksfinest He might be transporting cargo for his job lol
There are lots of oil leak stoppers and seal rejuvenating products on the market. Would be cool to see a number of them tested scientifically. AT-205 reseal is so far the only product I've used that actually stopped a severe oil leak.
The additives used in high mileage oil do not permanently stop oil leaks, they only have a bit more additive that swells the seals compared to regular motor oil. Also, if the seals are swelled from using high mileage oil, they will likely shrink a bit (causing problems) if you stop using high mileage oil after that.
Thanks for sharing!
LUCAS products work very well to stop leaks
@@mikefoehr235 Yes, but one is gambling on it not plugging up small internal pathways that need to stay open.
@@Mark-rw3kw buy a vehicle that doesn't leak. I have owned 4 Toyotas now and none have ever leaked anything. Cannot say that about Ford and gm.
I'd love to see oil showdown series for gear oil and automatic transmission fluids! I think it would be a hit as everyone seems to be VERY cautious and picky about their transmission fluids..specifically i'd like to see comparisons of the OEM fluids against the other brands that sell advertised equivalents, like Carquest, Valvoline Maxlife, and Amsoil to name a few. Great video as always!
Thank you for the video idea!
I'd appreciate this as well, I use Valvoline maxlife in my Honda and I noticed when comparing it to Hondas OEM fluid it has a slightly lower viscosity, having some Lucas stop slip laying around I put a small amount in to thicken er up
I just drained my manual gear oil on my 08 Ford escape 5 speed 180k..was getting grinding shifting in second when cold out .I used the recommended Ford motorcraft .haven't driven it yet .better work cause them 3 quarts costs 100 bucks
An ATF test would be great but it would be really hard to do. You'd really need multiple cars that take different standards of ATF to do a good test.
Gear/diff oil is a good idea, automatic transmission fuids - not sure there's much of a point. There are so many different transmission designs and fluid specs. While one transmission fluid may function and seem like it's doing well in a certain design, doesn't mean it's going to be the best choice for the long term no matter what cold flow or wear test results return.
Edit: Case in point above, poster is curious on Valvoline Maxlife vs Honda, presumably DW-1. Valvoline has stopped recommending this fluid as a replacement for DW-1 on their compatability chart as of 10/25/22.
Ozzie’s coffee is a great way for extra channel support since it doesn’t relate to tools in any way so there’s no bias, great video as always Todd.
Until he starts testing coffee lol
Thanks!
It’s also very appreciated that you stuck it at the end of the video, I can’t express enough how annoying advertisements of any kind early or mid through the video just make me want to click off or skip, if people like the content they watch to the end, that’s important since the people who care and want to support will see it (me)
I just went to order some and there's only one blend left. I'm picky about spending on shipping so hopefully all 3 will be in stock soon!
@@andrewk8636 😆
I'm always interested to see reviews on Super Tech products as they're what I always use on my vehicles, simply because of the affordability. I regularly drive over 3k miles in a month in my personal vehicle and have to do oil changes often to keep it running smoothly; In the 6+ years that I've used ST oil and filters across several different vehicles and thousands of miles, I've never experienced any issues that could be traced back to or blamed on inferior oil quality (knock on wood).
Thanks for the feedback.
I have been using Mobil 1 for many years now at the suggestion of a mechanic. Literally every time I go buy oil I have these two questions about SuperTech vs Mobil One given the price, and high mileage vs regular! Thank you Sir.
My pleasure!
I just bought Supertech for the first time. I'm not doing any extended drain intervals on this vehicle (GDI, turbocharged), so I think/hope they will perform equivalently.
@@ProjectFarm Wow, I bet so many actual tribologists could learn so much from you and your science! I'd love to see an oil you formulate!
I would love to see a compilation with all your previous oil test results compared on one graph/chart. Always great content, thank you!
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm that would be a fantastic video! Just a general summation of results would be a phenomenal piece of information.
Fairly common practice to use diesel oils in gasoline vehicles for the added wear production, I'd love to see some of those brands/models tested.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I’ve recently tried rottella t6 5w30 for my Silverado.
The trouble with diesel oil is it may effect the catalytic converter. The higher zinc levels could Leach into combustion chamber and clog converter.
@@JohnCunningham-sy5ug ah yes my vehicles definitely still have those.
Diesel oils do have higher ZZDP in them, much more so then modern GF6A gasoline oils, but modern diesel oils do not have the same amounts they used to have. Diesel oils may contribute to LSPI in direct injection gas engines as well as contribute to catalytic converter contamination.
I've used Super-tech for 15 years... high mileage for 10 years ...100,000 miles + per year...7,500 miles on average between oil changes...zero engine issues
Thanks for the feedback.
The extent that you go to for us is appreciated!
Thank you very much!
@@ProjectFarm hey Todd, would you consider testing the new Milwaukee "Nitrus" Carbide blades and the "Amped" diablo blades and if there are any equivalents from Lenox etc. Both the metal cutting blades and the multipurpose "Wrecker" blades. Thanks
This channel is truly a blessing since I’m just now working on my tool set out of tech school! I watch every video and I am amazed by the actual effort and time put into each and every video, It’s insane! Don’t know if you’ll see this but hope you had a great thanksgiving and thanks for giving us great content!
Great to hear!
So what's on your Project Farm recommendation list...
@@facial210 so far I love the gear wrench ratchet set I bought all 3 of them for under 100 dollars are they are great!! I also bought the Daytona super duty jack from harbor freight! So far they are both great quality.
@@facial210 oh also got a tekton ratcheting wrench set, hasn’t showed up yet but I’m excited to try them out!
@@Zuccleberry I have the Audew 20,000mah jump starter and I use Pennzoil platinum synthetic.
But I have a list for motorcycle tools and it's
Anything-
VIM Tools
Knipex
Wera
Here is the wishlist
711L EDC Ratchet. Amazon. W nM torque ad
--WERA Hex + Allen wrench set--
--WERA Tool Check Plus& 8008A Ratchet dieZelle57--
WERA Turbo
WERA Zyklops metric
Knipex Twin Grip pliers
--Knipex Cobra XS pliers--
Hazet 4pc Adapter set
Klein 65200 bit ratchet set
VIM RFBK400 long handle mini ratchet
VIM ujet swivel adapters
VIM VHC77 set is 🙂 nice
Olsa Gearless Ratchet
VIM TOOLS DD3 3/8" DUAL DRIVE MICRO RATCHET
I've been using the Mobil 1 High Mileage in my car for a while now, so nice to know it actually has some tangible benefits! Too bad the car is rusting away to nothing, but at least the engine runs. Thanks for the info!
The high mileage and seal conditioning aspect is STILL questionable, even after all these tests. Doesn’t prove jack. The lab results are all “within the noise” and also don’t show the high mileage oil as being LOADED with extra additives.
I’ve never used a high mileage oil in any of my engines. Even the one with 350,000 miles on it. I replace seals when they leak. 🤷🏻♂️
Use old oil and preshure washer to prevent rusting
I started using Pennsoil Platinum High Mileage Synthetic 0w-20 oil in my 2015 Lexus RX350 with 166K miles with no issues. Pennsoil synthetic oils are the cleanest of all oils.
The original oil comparison series was great and really opened my eyes about the different oils out there. I really enjoyed this refined head to head test. The Amazon Basic and Supertech have been my go to for quite some time as I have 5 cars and multiple small engines to keep up with and price is a factor.
Thanks for sharing!
Kirkland oil (Costco) is also made by the same company and can usually be had cheaper for the same oil when its onsale.
@@mimibuick ..that's what I have heard, also..but there's not a Costco around here within a hundred miles or more...there's at least 10 Walmart's within a 50 mile radius....
@@dyer2cycle sounds about right. My area has like 20+ Walmarts and only 2 Costco locations. Costco is reserved for bigger cities for sure
I have been using Supertech for all my cars as well but nowadays price has shot up to over 20$ per 5 quartz. Last years it was around 17$ and I actually got 4 for 3 of my cars. Now cost 4$ more in 2022.
I love these oil comparison videos! I would like to see a comparison of different viscosity oil like 0W30, 5W30, 10W30, 10W30, 10W40, 2W50, etc.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Second this. Seeing 0w30 vs 5w30 flow rates would be nice. Same as viscosity results.
probably the channel with best simple yet technically accurate comparison tests! love this content.
Thanks!
I bought a 2007 f150 with around 150k miles on it in 2021. I’ve only used the SuperTech High Mileage Full Synthetic oil with Lucas oil stabilizer in it since I bought it (5 qts to 1 qt). 3 years later it’s still running great, has over 230k miles on it and I just got back from a 2200 mile trip in it. I regularly run it on long highway trips, tow trailers, haul heavy loads, etc. SuperTech is definitely a good oil.
Thanks for sharing.
The thorough approach down to the little details like swapping the pots in the same order every time is always impressive. The regular Mobil 1 pouring out so slowly was pretty weird, but given that it happened twice, I can't imagine it was any sort of mistake on your end, especially with the track record you have. Another fantastic Project Farm video!
That bottle simply had 5w30 in the thicker range (almost a 40 grade) vs the other oils which were obviously in the thinner scale of 30 and thus, were able to pour sooner. 👍🏼
It was very strange to see the others FINISH before that Mobil 1 even STARTED! 😳🧐🤷🏻♂️
Thanks and you are welcome!
I did a paper in college about engine oils and interviewed a chemical engineer. I was told high mileage oils contain solvents that soften seals as your tests indicate. However I was also told that extended use causes the seals to soften to the point they fall apart. As an anecdote I knew an oil change tech that put high mileage oil in her new truck since she bought it new and after a few years it leaked from every seal imaginable .
Thank you very much for this comment
So basically switch it up then? Use regular full synthetic oil for a couple of oil changes and then switch to high mileage. Just keep alternating between the two?
@@AustinsCoins That’s what I was thinking.
Very Interesting. Thanks!
@@AustinsCoins I think where most people go wrong is they do not maintain a strict oil change schedule. some people claim you can go 10k miles without changing your oil and I find that to be a total crock of shit. well you can, but you'll likely be left little oil in the engine after 10k miles. change your oil every 5k miles, stick to one brand of oil and a filter and routinely check all your fluids. if properly maintenance your vehicle from new the engine itself should last a very long time.
As a man who has probably outlived his expiration date I've found the best oil is the one that's on sale that week and just be sure to change your oil regularly.
Obviously they aren’t created equal. Might make sense to buy a better performing oil than save a couple bucks.
Thanks for sharing!
That's what I do. 215000 on a 2002 dodge ram.
@@phxrsx Nope. Just change oil on regular basis. I have put over 200000 miles on at least 3 cars with oil that was on sale. No problems at all.
As long as the oil you buy meets the required spec ex. (ILSAC GF-6A) and you change it on time, you should have nothing to worry about. I always use the severe duty maintenance schedule provided by the manufacturer and never had an engine burn a drop of oil. I am also way past my expiration date.
I would love to see a Valvoline oil test for the full syn and high mileage versions. I've switched to Valvoline a few years ago with great results when I noticed Mobil 1 was evaporating 2 quarts over 5k miles and burning darker than it used to. I'd also like to see a battery test between Optima Yellow Top with other hi-po batteries. Great work Ozzie!
Thanks for the video idea.
You’re letting the oil stay in there longer than 5k miles? Holy fuck 😂 nooooooo
@@Namedeeznuts Mobile 1 high mileage I left in my Trailblazer for 20-30k miles. Once the change oil light came on I changed it. I checked my oil often, of course, to ensure it wasn't low. When it was a quart low after around 5-8k miles, I'd add a quart. He tested different oil than I got since it was 15k oil. Most my miles were highway. Prior to switching to the high mile I used the regular 5k mobile 1 and the change oil light would come on around 4k miles. From 220,000 to 316,000 miles the high mileage gave me 20-30,000 miles before the change oil light came on. More city driving the oil broke down more than straight highway. I won't use anything else. Though I would if any gasket in my vehicle has cork gaskets.
@@Namedeeznuts how often do you do an oil change in America?
@@nickgoode8579 3,000 to 5,000 miles isnt an uncommon number to change oil here in the states. Some of us change oil every 3-6 months reguardless of mileage as well.
As winter is rolling around it would be nice to see a update on the old battery tests for both car and rechargeables that were laid to fallow. Good tests as always!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Love your content man , i cant stress enough how much of a help you are for DIYers like myself, keep up the great work and I hope to see more content . one of my requests are a review of the black and decker combi drill , it had different attachments to use , please give it a review thanks!
Thank you very much for the positive feedback! It means a lot to me!! Also, thank you for the video idea!
Another great test! I have been using Walmart synthetic for years and I am very satisfied with the results so far. I don’t know if it’s a local thing but the closest Walmart is selling Mobil 1 cheaper than the store brand so now I’m using Mobil 1 again.
Both of my vehicles have over 200,000 miles and they both are spotless inside and no leaks. I did replace the valve cover gaskets on both vehicles last year. I keep hearing that my engine will surely explode any second because I only change my oil every 10,000 miles but I don’t see any need to change it more often because it isn’t even showing signs of breakdown or contamination at 10,000.
3000 mile intervals are for antique cars that don’t have a PCV system and sequential fuel injection but there are still plenty of dinosaurs who still believe 3000 miles is a universal law of physics.
Thanks!
@@tooltime9260
I used to work for a big fleet operation that did lots of oil testing. I learned that there are too many factors to worry about a set number.
One prime example goes like this. We had similar equipment with Japanese diesel engines. Both brands had roughly the same horsepower rating and were used to do the same job.
Both had 25 hour oil change intervals but after 25 hours the oil in one brand looked like roof tar and the other looked like it was just poured from the bottle.
I was intrigued so I did some research and found out that one of the two was rated at 22 horsepower but the engine was actually rated at 36 horsepower.
My conclusion is that engine load is the biggest factor.
Had a 2001 Ford Focus with the Zetec engine. As I was driving a 135 mile round trip commute daily, I would put 12-13k miles between oil changes using Mobil 1. My thinking was engine hours vs mileage. Got 400k miles out of that car before the rust took it, still ran great, no engine noise. Currently use a store brand synthetic in my beater vehicles and Mobil 1 in my "good" vehicles...but after seeing the cold flow test, I'm wondering.....
With a little tuned 4 cylinder making 310 hp and 375 ft lbs.. I change my oil every 3000 miles. For my peace of mind. 30K miles and catch can is still dry.
I use Mobil 1 high mileage in my boat, going on 12 years now. My logic was the boat sits all winter long (I start the engine a couple times during the off season) and thought the added protection would add life to both engine and seals. After watching this informative video it looks like I made a wise choice...
Thanks for sharing.
This guy is a national treasure
Nice to be exposed to something real and honest Bless you
Thanks so much!
I'm sure you've had it suggested but air compressor oils would be interesting to see tested. Especially synthetic vs conventional. Good work as always!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
I would not recommend this but I put only Marvel Mystery Oil in my 5 HP Sears air compressor 40 years ago and it’s still going strong. Never added or or changed it. I built 2 airplanes with it. Love your show.
@@dalecombs9706 i’m also a pilot and what airplane? i’m so interested in your experiences.
@@StBeter-tc2te RV-4 and several rebuild projects-good luck it’s an amazing experience
@@dalecombs9706 marvel air tool oil has kept my tools and others from breaking or being ruined by water in the line. Tons of times I've used it to free up frozen/dried up air tools. Miracle stuff. Seen mystery oil free up oil rings on cars 90+ years old.
After your oil comparison video, I switched from Mobil 1 to Supertech full synthetic oil 2 years ago. It used to be $13/5 quarts like 2 years ago. It is now $26/5 quarts. I switched back to Mobil 1 since Walmart sells it for $24/5 quarts.
Thanks for sharing.
Bidenomics at work
Being an engineer in a consumer world, I just love Ozzie's (Todd's) Project Farm reviews. They're very empirical and information packed. When half awake before coffee, I often watch them at .5x or .75x speed to allow them to soak in. After coffee, full speed ahead. Thanks very much Ozzie (Todd)!
Thanks and you are welcome!
Anybody named Todd is a quality person.
I've been using supertech oil in all my cars since 2005 . Always pleased with the price and performance.
Thanks for sharing.
Love the oil comparison videos great work as always i think this like the only channel on youtube who takes the time to go through everything and be consistent and dude literally thinks of everything
Thank you very much!
Dude is really good at what he does,keep up the great work it's greatly appreciated....
Thanks, will do!
So high mileage oil of both Supertech and Mobile 1 were only 1/10 of a point better than regular synthetic. After watching this I'm more confident sticking with regular Supertech when considering the cost difference. I change my oil every 3000 period which puts you even more in the safe zone. Other engine test videos have shown going 10,000 miles between oil changes clogs the oil rings on your pistons regardless of brand.
I'll take the 1/10th
@@ronaldjones6920 Reported you for sexual harassment.
Yeah but this was the difference of a quick test think about how much you use a car it will add up quickly and mess something up
Isn't it like a $5 difference for a 5 quart bottle? Why bother picking super tech when mobil is only 5 bucks more?
@@arthur.monticelli oreilys and autozone mark up mobile one from like 26$ to 37-38$ so when you see superttech next to it for 25$ people seem to buy it. I have autozone price match my mobile 1 and pensoil to Walmart prices and when they say they can’t do it I’ll leave it and go to a Walmart for my oil
Gonna just post here that I find this video super valuable before even watching it because EVERY OTHER VIDEO you post has been. Thank you!
Awesome! Thank you!
I use the Castrol High Mileage in my 2010 Mazda3 5spd. I just hit 130k. I've always figured a few extra preventative additives in the oil couldn't hurt for the same price. Nice vid, thanks 👍
Thanks and you are welcome!
I do the same with my 02 4.7 dodge dakota, sea foam, marvel mystery oil and the Lucas oil additives the stuff isn't crazy expensive so why not add it to my aging motor. At the very worst it just doesn't have any benefits but I think they all keep my motor clean and running good
I've been using Super tech in my vehicles for a few years now. No complaints. Performs well. My only nit to pick is the clear plastic shrink wrap seal. More than once it's come off kinda shredded and ended up in the jug! But, that's operator error on my part.
Thanks for sharing.
Agreed, the plastic wrap is annoying, and I also had to fish out a piece of plastic before pouring into my engine!
@@tonydavis190 I bought an el cheapo kitchen strainer from the dollar store and put it in my oil fill funnel.
Companies should consider putting the “Project Farm” seal of approval on their products! Excellent work as always sir! Thank you! 😊
I remember when STP came out with25,000 mile oil it was all my Dad ran in his Datsun pickup. He started noticing it was vanishing so he bought cases whenever he found it. When he would change his oil it was slightly dark but never dirty. He figured it was so good that it threatened other oils.
Interesting
Mobil 1 when it was first introduced in the early 70's was rated for 25,000 miles. The auto industry and the oil industry raised a big fuss about it and that it would cost dealers and service stations money. ( Source- My dad was SAE Lube engineer for Sinclair and BP and friends with the folks at Mobil that developed Mobil 1. He was later VP of Sales for BP NA. )
Mobil 1 had a 20,000 mile oil a few years ago, but it was expensive and didn’t sell. People who change their own oil didn’t want it, and lube shops definitely didn’t!
Funny how that works. It's just a money maker but, 99% of people aren't smart enough to realize that. My dad did oil changes every 30k on his vans. When he sold his one van it had 580k. Engine was never opened and ran like new. He did 170k on his box truck. There was no sludge. That truck has 250-300k miles and has never had an issue. There is a website for a million mile Ford van. It did almost 1.3 million until the oil pump seized. Engine was untouched. A couple of times he did 55k on oil and, it still did just shy of 1.3 million.
@@karlhopkins713 I have a Ford Fusion plug-in hybrid with 120k miles that has had 5 oil changes in its life (I've historically gone by when it tells me to change it as the manual tells you to do). So that's about 25k on average (but about 30% of that is EV miles) but she does consume oil now though, about a half quart every thousand miles. So it's making me wish I would have changed it more and not trusted the manual. But it's not the end of the world. I'll go about 10k or less now I think. I have a 2005 Escape Hybrid that consumes about the same but with nearly 300k miles (and it always has consumed a bit).
My 2014 F-150 with the 5.0 has been getting full synthetic since it hit 100,000km and then I switched to extended performance and now extended performance/high mileage. No leaks and I’m happy with the oil even though the regular price is pretty high (I buy it on sale which is about 50% off).
Thanks for sharing.
Do this test with the same oils after they have been used. Say for 5000 miles, drain and then test. I'd be curious for those results vs new oil.
@@jacobweber9956 that’s a fair proposition.
I’ve personally noticed that the extended performance and extended performance/high mileage oils both tend to remain ‘clearer’ for longer than plain old full synthetic and much longer than normal oil. I am a truck driver and equipment operator so I check the oil regularly, and keep track of such things.
Those are solid. Better than the newest ones. Imo
@@user-bj9qr9og4b if it doesn’t maintain its integrity it tells you by how ugly it appears.
You CAN tell some things from oil colour and consistency but not everything.
The longer it’s clear-ish can mean
the engine isn’t producing as much crap or the oil is exceptionally engineered…and synthetic oil IS engineered to give specific results.
I've been running Valvoline high mileage synthetic in my Jeep JK with the 3.8 mini van engine. Not because I expected any improvement but because Walmart sells it at a way lower price because no one wants it. Working good so far.
Thanks for sharing.
I was getting that oil for $22. Bought a bunch of them for that price.
Its probably the best HM oil...
Your testing procedures provide very accurate information and I appreciate your efforts to keep your viewers in the know. I've always used used full synthetic oils in my cars since the mid 80's and swear by them, especially Mobil I.
Thanks!
This is why I love this channel. You just can't get this stuff anywhere else lol and the thing is.....I don't think anyone can really argue with the process that these tests are done with.
Great job dude. Never stop doing these tests 👌🏻
Thanks!
Except the flow test seemed flawed. That third pipe appeared to hold the oil back. Once it hit the metal ramp it flowed just as quickly as the others as could be seen by the bubbles. Also, there are many other tests that can and should be done on oils to measure their performance in the following areas:
Oil viscosity and lubricity
Oxidation stability
Acidity and/or alkalinity
Pour, flash and fire point
Soluble and insoluble contaminants
Air release and foaming characteristics
Anti-corrosion and anti-rust characteristics
Anti-wear and extreme-pressure characteristics
Water separability and emulsibility characteristics
Relative cold-weather operating characteristics
@@simonmiller5118 it was fast forwarded
Consumer Reports has entered the chat,...
@@nostradamus7648 lol
Love this channel. As an appliance tech of 25 years, your tool comparison videos are incredibly helpful!
Thanks! Glad to hear!
@@ProjectFarm Video suggestion; Different wire splicing methods. Wire nuts, butt connectors, soldering and such.
Thank you for this test, I use the Super Tech High Mileage and take Scotty's advice and change it every 5,000 miles on my 08 Highlander with 230k miles with no oil burning.
You are welcome!
I literally thought they were all the same… basically.
If you think about how often the oil is changed in a vehicle through its lifetime the small differences add up to make a very big difference!
Thank you again for some really valuable information !
Thank you for the content. Ive been turning wrenches over 20 years. My experience has taught me checking your oil and changing it frequently is more important than the brand. Also, with newer cars, always minus a few thousand miles from what the manufacturer recommends on oil changes. If they recommend 8k, do 6k.
Thanks for sharing!
There’s a Master Toyota tech on YT who’d agree with you and say change it more frequently than manufacturers recommendations. Apparently, newer tech engines are tougher on oil and require more frequent changes.
@@alexnutcasio936 If you look at the oil change frequency recommendations, most have 2 regular driving, and severe conditions. Most people probably drive the more severe (short trips, dusty conditions, extended idling, low speed, stop and go) conditions.
Given the increasing reliance on oil's hydraulic properties, an additional suite of tests measuring changes in that property after heating/freezing would be a great addition to these fantastic videos.
Thanks for the suggestion.
Project Farm did a great job as usual. Oils today are outstanding. Only thing that hasn't changed is, oil isn't changed because it worn out, it's changed because it's dirty. While alot of todays oils can easily go 12,000 to 15,000 miles and some even more, the damage by the dirt in that oil just isn't worth it. Good conventional oil and a good filter every 4,000 miles to me is a no brainer.
Thanks! Thanks for the feedback.
How does dirt get in oil?
My thoughts exactly. Carbon build-up happens to even perfectly maintained engines over time. It's just the reality of high temps and internal combustion. I've never gone longer than five thousand miles between oil changes, max, and that's pushing it.
You should do more high mileage oil brands like royal purple, amsoil, Castrol, Pennzoil, Costco brand. If they all have high mileage with the dexos certification. I'd be interested in seeing if they effect oil pressure at all in a running engine. At cold and hot temperature. Definitely could be an interesting test.
Thanks for the suggestion.
I would love to see this
Great info! I used Super tech in all my vehicles for a couple of years with no problems. My only issue is, I dropped that plastic seal in the jug whilst removing it about 3 times...no matter how carefully I tried to peel it off. So, I moved on to Napa Full Synth HM.
Price update April 2024: M1 HM is $35.99
Thanks for the feedback.
You do such great vids. You care about being fair, non bias, and open-minded. Your tests are as fair as possible. Love the vids
Thanks and you are welcome!
@@ProjectFarm is it possible that synthetic oil's detergent content eats up additives like engine restore's ability to fix issues?
blah blah blah, this has been said thousands of times
@@BikerJim74 ok, so don't be a douche and don't respond?
@@BikerJim74 then why are u here? U should be busy creating new, informative videos on your channel and providing the results to an audience for free. All at your own expense. Lots of great educational videos on your channel already i see...🤨
"Ella" 😂
Been watching your tests for some time now and I love how thorough you are - what I love even more is how you engage with the community and continuously perfect your craft!
That being said, can we get one on oil filters? 🙃
Thanks for the suggestion.
If you do test oil filters, please include a selection of OEM filters. I suspect that many people want the best oil filter they can get, sO telling them which non-OEM filter is best would just leave them in a dilemma as to whether they should buy that or OEM.
yes, I came here to post a request for oil filter comparisons.
Yes oil filters please
@@ProjectFarm oil filter pls!
I love your oil tests. I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum after 25 years of Mobil 1 before you did your last test. You've always done it with 5W30. I'd be curious to see results with different viscosities from similar brands. Like 0W20 vs 0W30 vs 0W40 for example, to see if they differ from the 5W30. Not so much the wear and viscosity, but the additives more so.
I used to swear by Castrol for the longest time and after he did his big oil show down a few years ago I won't use anything but Pennzoil or Amsoil.
@@charliehotel2197
Honestly I switched to Pennzoil around a decade ago because it was cheaper than Mobil 1. Since it was no longer the real synthetic it was when I began using it, why pay the price. At 80K with Ultra Platinum from the first oil change, I saw how clean the top end of my engine was while replacing the valve cover gasket. It looked new. Not a deposit, discoloration, or wear to be seen.
Any SAE 30 oil well behave similarly when hot, biggest difference is in 0W/5W/10W/15W describing it characteristics when cold.
I truly appreciate all the hard work and thought that he puts into the videos. The lengths that you go to in order to test all different products shows the dedication you have to bringing us honest reviews of products. The fact that you always reply to almost every comment and always take into consideration what people say makes you genuine and authentic. Which is such a breath of fresh air in a world full of people taking selfies and tik-tok nonsense. Thank you for always keeping it real!
Thanks and you are welcome!
I use high mileage Mobile One because I worked that plant in Beaumont Texas. Mobile One is badass stuff. Castrol synthetic is similar...
Great feedback on the Mobil 1 and Castrol. Thank you
I can't believe how far you've gone, congratulations! This one surely brings back memories to the early days, and probably one of the oldest PF test rig right there.
Thanks!
I knew this one would be a HIGH VIEW Number, when i watched it over a month ago, well done, so glad you did it, Thanks a bunch.
You're very welcome!
@ProjectFarm Pennzoil high mileage Platinum is excellent!
My Lexus has 246k miles on it. I change the oil regularly and when my engine is on, or idling, you can’t even hear anything. It’s quiet but now I’m gonna use the high mileage Mobile 1 oil
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for providing bias free data driven evaluations. Am a patron supporter and feel it’s worth more than a consumer reports subscription. I have been watching for a few years keep up the good work. Maybe an cabin filter and air filer test and a value wiper test as suggestions.
Thanks for supporting the channel and for the video ideas!
I'd love to see tests on the Lucas Oil additives. I bought their "Transmission Fix" for my 2011 Mitsubishi 4x4 Pajero and saw a significant smoother shifting in the automatic transmission to the point that sometimes I can't even feel it, whilst before it was draggy, and I could feel every shift as punch.
The other was their "Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer", which in my Chevy Blazer 1996 V6 engine, it seemed to start smoother and also would rotate for a very observable amount of time after shutting down the engine.
Thanks for the suggestion.
The transmission in my grandmother's CX9 was slipping. It's completely fixed the slipping issue for now at least
Another great suggestion. I've personally been skeptical of Lucas, but people say good things. But then some people say stupid things, as well. A perfect idea for something to test.
My stepdad has that old head mentality with the Lucas stuff. Kinda got used to it so I use it on everything. My Supercharged mustang needs 6 quarts and I always do 5 quarts oil and 1 of that Lucas heavy oil stabilizer. Not sure if it’s hurting the engine but my thought process is “I already go 5w higher why not the “extra” protection.” I do my oil changes every 2,500 miles doe since it’s a daily I occasionally do pulls in. Barely hit 69k miles but I’ve been using high mileage oil since I got it with 60k.
Lucas : good stuff.
As a user of both brands and specifically a user of Supertech HM in my 230k Subaru, I found this interesting. Thanks for the testing!
Thanks and you are welcome!
HEY! I have a subaru as well. fairly new still -- 30k miles, no issues yet! At what odometer did you start using HM oil? I know the jug says 75k miles, but is there any downside into using HM oil at, let say, 50k? probably a silly question, but I thought id ask
@@MarksTech I can't imagine any detrimental effects of using it in a younger or lower mileage engine, but I don't think a high milage formulation is even worthy of considering until 80k+. I starting using it long ago, but surely not that early. I wouldn't stress to much.
@@DrewMestel gotcha, thanks for the reply 🙏
Wow! That was everything and more I ever wanted to know about motor oil. My corvette spells out out Mobil 1, so that is what I will use. 39k on it so I'm sticking with the standard formula. Thanks for investing so much time into this presentation.
Thanks!
Very interesting.
So, here is my question.
Wouldn't using high mileage oil right from the get go (new vehicle) give you the best long term anti-wear protection? (Compared to using normal synthetic up until like 75k miles when the oil states you should start using it).
Why would you not use high mileage oil all the time if they preform better at lower temperatures, and also have more anti-wear properties working in their favor?
My guess is that you want thinner oils when the engine is new to penetrate the tighter fits. Also the additives create more deposits.
@@JohnDoe-ej3wp but viscosity is the same so thickness shouldn't matter, looks like the high mileage oils performed better anyway - especially in cold temps, maybe there's a point about deposits.
I was going to ask this very question, my guess is that we must have a built in failure rate, or else you would never buy a new car.
@@nickademuss42 the engine is one of the last things that fails in a vehicle
@@Egleu1 People not monitoring their oil and antifreeze, and people not changing there oil regulary Destroys engines.
The initial frozen flow test was interesting. That was a day and night difference for Mobil and basically none for SuperTech.
But once it was used the difference was drastically lower. Really interesting.
@Bloody Mobile That just shows that the first number is when oil is hot and fluid, the second number, higher viscosity, is thick when cold. The funny part about that. People will always say that is wrong, even with proof.
Thanks for sharing!
@@ducewags wait...what? you are literally wrong on this...haha. It's hilarious because you couldn't be more wrong. Show me your "proof", dude.
@@isaackvasager9957 Tell me what viscosity is and what a low number means in the terms of viscosity, without talking about oil.
@@scott5799 Not my first rodeo. Is it your first rodeo on what viscosity is, and what a low number means with viscosity? If the first number in oil is when it's cold as people think, then why is it so thick when cold? At the same time why is the second number as people think, is when the oil is hot it gets thick. I would love to hear what kind of oil gets thicker with heat, and thiner with cold.
Surprising results of the Mobil 1 during -40. I wonder what other synthetics do at that temp. I've always suspected the synthetic I've been using doesn't flow well in cold temps as it seems unusually hard starting if it's not plugged in. Especially 5W30 Dexos2 (not Dexos 1 Gen2).
Thanks for the suggestion.
I also was surprised at that. It has flowed way better when compared to other Synthetics in past tests.
@@Glenb13 They are constantly changing base oils (and a mix thereof) which can significant;y alter cold flow characteristics. This is most likely why the non-Dexos flowed so much better at -40 being that it's mainly NGTL base.
typically they have to use the better base oils to hit that 5w compared to 10w. wonder if the dexos testing is less strigent in super low temp flow testing
I would like to see a comparison test of only high mileage oils to see which one out performs the others.
Pretty sure Amsoil will always win in every situation.
Thanks for another great video, Todd. My car is an '07 Civic, and has 318,000km on it (almost 200k miles), so I found this video very helpful and informative 👍
My pleasure!
It’s always a good video when he brings back the lubricity tester 😂
Thank you!!
Yeah I love that thing.
A modified version of the ol one arm bandit! lol
High mileage oil isn't just for cars with high mileage either. We have a 2015 Santa Fe Sport 2.0 Turbo with 120k km on it. Took it on a cross-Canada drive (Vancouver to Quebec, approx 5,000 km one way). Using regular oil of the recommended viscosity (5W30, I think it was) we were going through about half or more of a litre of oil per tank of gas. We did some research at the hotel 2 or 3 nights in and found that high mileage oil is recommended for those engines, so we switched. Barely burned any oil after that.
Thanks for sharing.
I like how quick, thorough, and straight-to-the-point this guy is with the tests... and also unbiased towards the products which to me gets "the seal of approval" in regards to the attention to details. Well done, sir. 👍
Thanks!
I like Super Tech products. I used their fuel injector cleaner and it seems to run really well. It might be all in my mind but seems pretty good.
Thanks for sharing.
I like watching your test and learning facts about products. Ty for the content! Before this test I would never consider using Walmart brand oil in my car or lawnmower even . Super tech does not look too bad much better than some of the other oils you’ve tested in the past!
There are like 20 brands that are same exact oil from Warren Oil. It is on par with most name brands of full synth.
Thanks and you are welcome! Thanks for sharing.
I would have liked to see something using Amazon Basic. That's all I use now (their high mileage variant), based on your earlier tests confirming that it's a superior product. Great work as always!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
Pretty cool results. Before I became an ASE certified mechanic I worked in lube shops so this is neat to see. If you do this again in the future, maybe suspend the O-rings from the top so they're not directly in contact with the glass right above the heating element. That might give a slightly different result. Or not whos knows lol! Always enjoy your videos!
Thanks! Thanks for the suggestion.
@Project Farm no problem my friend I appreciate all you do for us TH-camrs! One thing I've been interested in as of late is, testing the anti-foaming abilities in oils being these newer cars tend to run higher RPM, and hotter etc. A windage tray helps with that but was always curious if conventional vs synthetic etc makes a difference. Just a thought. Thanks buddy
It would be interesting to see how oil dilution with gasoline affects the lubricity tests. Awesome video. Keep up the good work!
Thanks, will do! Thanks for the suggestion.
@@ProjectFarm yes, the honda 1.5turbo have had major prob.
That’s a good idea. Especially considering how many turbocharged engines there are today, which will all have some level of fuel dilution during an OCI
Amsoil and Pennzoil both have a 0W16. I would love to see how their 0W16 does against their own fantastic Amsoil Signature 0W20 and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W20. Thanks again for the amazing reviews
Thanks for the suggestion.
0w16 is to meet CAFE emissions. So it is beneficial for the manufacturer to spec thinner oil for microscopic MPG gains but there is no real tangible benefit for an individual consumer to actually use 0w16 instead of 0w20.
I swear by these tests...never been disappointed and its so nice to have a guide when deciding what to buy. Now my old 86 B2200 is getting Mobil HM :)
Thanks so much PF 😀
You are wecome!
Thanks bro! I'm amazed at the time and thoroughness you put into these tests! most people would never do these nor would they ever Know what the true unbiased results were.. Very densely packed with valuable info! As a long time user of the supertech full synthetic , ive tried the high mileage version from time to time although I never Knew what real,if any benefits it offered...For the record, we have a 94 ford probe gt at 250k mi and a ford focus zetec at over 350k mi , both daily driven... The probe gt has recently started to puff some white smoke, just alittle and briefy during initial startup, probably valve guides... the focus however burns no oil ,no smoke ever and the engine feels like a car with 50k mi on it... oil changes with filter usually done at 5k mi...new sub here!
One showdown in particular I’d like to see is the Pennzoil High Mileage vs Ultra Platinum, since that was the second best for the oil showdown you did a while ago.
Thanks for the suggestion.
💯 agree
Looks like I’ll be using Mobil 1 high mileage from now on. I drive a 2009 Acura TSX and it churns through oil because of an engine recall. I’ve used Mobil 1 in the past and it had far superior life between adding oil compared to castrol high mileage
Thanks for sharing.
Castrol like the cheapest?
Sure there are oils better than some but nothing stands up to just changing your oil like you should.
Great videos I seriously value your opinion and channel
Thank you!
And making sure the level is up every week.
@@pgmurray76 that should go without saying. but no one does, they figure you should never need to check between changes. And they can many times get away with that at 3-4-5 k mile oil changes. But no one really understands how an engine works, oil has to lubricate the pistons, rings & cylinder walls, so a small amount gets by the rings and burns up in the combustion chambers on each stroke. And if an oil is run long enough it will volatilize off some of the lighter fractions, that is normal for regular 4$ oils and to a far lesser degree with premium synthetics.