got it to be all green but some or negative green and positive greens but now some of the stuff i print like fidgets get stuck together and dont move im thinking its a leveling issue but not to sure anny ideas bro thanks
Hi Shane thanks for your down to earth and helpful vids - I am about to start on the direct drive conversion but I wanted to get to grips with the bed levelling first. The problem was that being an impatient old fart I couldn’t wait for the stuff to arrive from ali express so came up with this work around. Remove all the bed locating screws and the bed. With the screws in situ fit small silicone o rings over the screws so that they grip the screw threads snugly and make sure they are tight against the bottom of the heated bed. Refit the bed using all the spacers and rings and tighten make sure they are snug but not crushed. I took only two attempts to adjust the height by tightening the screws and got to a full green display for the first time. I like fact that the existing support structure is kept and only cost me the price of some 4mm o rings which I had laying around from a middle of Lidl purchase years ago! I am not being critical of your fix by the way if hadn’t seen it I wouldn’t have stumbled on my fix.
Hi bloke. No I understand completely. 😁👍 For me it's not about doing it my way. It's about enjoying the hobby and making things work. I'm glad you got it fixed mate. Nice work. 👍 To be honest there are so many ways to fix these things it's crazy.
I'm about to buy one of these. The first 20 videos I watched all said amazing things about this machine... not I'm starting to see the issues. I'm still going to buy this and hopefully work through any issues. Thanks for the video
Thanks for the video. I had ordered 2x kits of silicone spacers thinking i was going to replace all of them. Then I saw your video. After replacing the 4x corners and manually leveling with the stock firmware. I'm all in the green except for the light blue on the far right. But that is because I overtightened the wheels and they wore out quickly. I maye throw some blue thread locker on the screws and leave it. As I have a very curious 5 year old boy who loves to turn knobs. Thanks again
Thanks for the great video. I've had some issues with a used CR6 I picked up and didn't even think about the bed screws being loose. The previous owner changed them to silicon mounts. I'm used to the E3V2 but didn't even consider it on this for some reason...
Hello, I was inspired by your adjustment of the bed. what is a silicone pad please? I assume it is necessary to drill a thread on the trolley of the screw box in order to be able to adjust the height of the box? Thank you
Awesome video! I don't understand how you get those mesh numbers on the display screen. I'm using the stock firmware. Thanks again. I just read the rest of your comments here and see i need to get the community firmware. Yay! Subbed to help you get to 1k
Thanks bro all of the screw things under the glass bed on the metal plate wore loose literally all of them in had this problem out of the box thanks liked and subscribed
@@shanegoodwin2912 it helped again some of my print were have some trouble and just tried checking it with a ruler and it was a good amount uneven about to do that just waiting for something I'm printing to either fail or finish checked this videos when I noticed it was having trouble your video is under rated thanks
Print quality has significantly improved and it works way better and I am amazed I never thought about this being a problem don't think creality has good quality control
Thank you for the info. Again, I love the commentary. I’ll be doing the silicone spacer thing this week. It makes a lot of sense what your saying about those. Even creality’s new cr10smart pro printer still uses them. Hello from Canada btw!
Hey bloke! Glad you enjoyed it. :-) Yeah its totally worth it in my opinion. :-) I hope it goes well for you. With a bit of luck you'll have no troubles and have a good straight bed. :-) Keen to see how you get on. I have never been to Canada, but my parents have. They tell me your country is absolutely perfect. Ill have to visit one day. 🙂
@@shanegoodwin2912 I'll be doing everything you recommend in your video. First I'll be doing your direct drive mod. then tomorrow will be the silicone spacer once it gets here. Thank you for these videos. ps, where in Canada did your parents visit? I'm in British Columbia Vancouver, my guess is there.
Thank you. Went from -.953 in one corner to .609 in the other corner before I made these adjustments. Measured as you showed and my cross bar was off by .5mm side to side. Made the adjustments and now I'm all green and both corners are -.147.
Great video, really struggling with my first layer atm not quite sure why and half way through troubleshooting. I just had a look at the black pegs that hold the silver bed plate above the black carriage plate, and they vary in length (at least in my case) by up to 0.4mm 😂
Hi Shane, great vid. I was in the 80% was out by .8mm and adjustment got rid of the rainbow. I just noticed in your settings that your Z Offset on both printers was around .13mm and mine seems to be around .25mm. What affects the Z offset and should mine be similar to yours?
Thanks for the info, am having rainbow readings just like what you showed. I thought id levelled the x axis enough but will try again measuring from the top, as i done it from the bed. I did notice my balance was off with the bed getting closer to the nozzle towards the back of the bed which is annoying me. Being oldschool i wish it had the adjusting knobs too as you say just to get things set then the ABL can refine it. I also think that maybe there is a cap on just how far the ABL can compensate as my prints will constantly be close to the bed in some spots, far away in others even after running the bed levelling. Ill have to take a look about silicon spacers
Agreed mate. I believe there is a bit of a limit where it starts to screw up. It's what drove me to doing this in the first place. 👍 The silicone spacers definitely work well. I can highly recomend them. 👍👍
4:20 most of these screws were completly stripped for me. a 2.5mm allen key worked perfectly for a couple, but the rest were to big for 2.5mm and too small for 3mm (i also tried the closest imperial equivelents).
Shane, did you get the silicon mounts for your CR-6 SE? I'd love to see a video on what you got and how you installed them. I also get the rainbow when I level mine. I'm also having adhesion issues when trying to print small parts like 608 bearings. Any advice on that? Thanks.
Me to I just bought 20 16mm silicone bed spacers and I'm wondering if I should add them but I'd like to see a video on the results of adding them before I go ahead with it mines not out as bad as your video utterly back rig ornery on mine is always been -3 in the blue range
@@seanwood5443 I dialed mine in as best as possible without getting the spacers. The biggest thing that has helped my printer is making sure the e-steps were set correctly. Since I set that and made sure to wash the glass bed before each print, this thing has been printing beautifully. Seeing as I am running the community firmware like Shane, I am going to look into linear advance next to see if there is more I can do make things even better.
Appreciate the video. I am currently trying to get my bed on the cr6 max nice and level. I was considering doing something like this but wasn't sure because the bed is so much larger than the 6se. I started by grabbing a automotive feeler gauge and where it was low, I used a feeler gauge that was half the thickness of however low it was in that spot. Still working on that. Also, I found I get very different numbers on the bed when I disconnect the bowden tube while the auto level runs. Have you ever done that? Great video.
Hi, I was thinking about adding the springs to my CR 6 se as well. Is that the same plate from the original bed that you use to mount the springs? Can you do a quick tutorial from start to finish on adding the springs?
Hey Shane, Nice Videos! I have a problem with underextrusion on my CR-6 SE and I don‘t know how to fix it anymore. I mounted a new original hotend that printed 100% fine in the first print. However when starting the second print it underextruded. I calibrated the E-steps (now 102.5) tons of times, tried different filaments, new slicing profiles, flashed the community firmware, did cold pulls on the new hot end but nothing helped. With the community firmware I adjusted the flow rate to 150% which seems to be about the right flow. But that‘s not the way it should work. Do you have any idea about the root cause of that problem?
Hi mate. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the feedback. 😁👍 I have seen something like what you have said on one of my machines. It ended up being the heatbreak. The tube that goes up the center of the hotend I think can some how get cold spots in it or something like that, that causes the filament to seize. When I had this issue it wasn't until I swapped out the entire red hotend that the problem went away. It's interesting you are seeing this beyond a hot end swap though. Have you looked at the Bowden tube at all? Or tried swapping out the extruder motor? I know if the extruder motor is getting too hot, it can skip steps. Maybe you could try swapping out the motor with one of the ones on the side z axis or something like that? Just to see if it resolves anything?
@@shanegoodwin2912 Thanks a lot for your quick reply, I really appreciate it! It seems really strange as the new hotend worked well until the end on the first print. Also now when I request to extrude 100mm of filament (through the hotend and the nozzle) that also works fine. But when starting a print it just extrudes a very thin but continuous line. However I will follow your advice and replace some parts like the red metal part and the tube from the new hotend with the old one and see if it makes a difference. If not I‘ll try to swap the steppers. But I‘m not sure if it skips steps because of overheating as the underextrusion is from the beginning of the print and as already said pretty constant. Anyways I‘ll try and see if it makes a difference. Thanks again!
@@mauricebackes888 not a problem at all mate. Sorry to hear about the troubles. I totally feel your pain. Yeah unfortunately it's most likely going to be a trial and error thing. I've gone through so many bloody parts in the past trying to work out issues. 🙄 Good luck with it bud. Hope you nail it soon.
Hey bloke. Yeah that's the one. There are heaps of videos on here explaining how to update the firmware to the community version. It's totally worth the effort 👍👍
before you do anything, raise your X-rail to the top of the gantry, and make sure it is the same distance from the top gantry rail on both sides ... don't always assume that it is the bed that is not level ...
@@shanegoodwin2912 Sorry. Mate ..I skipped over that . I had looked at 100 videos, and was just sorta skipping thru 'em ..... but ... if your rollers are all adjusted properly, you will never get your X-rail level with the gantry by adjusting the Z screws ... the X-rail can only be adjusted for level with the gantry by loosening the 4 screws that hold the roller plates to the X-rail. and adjusting level with them loose. The problem is that on most printers, these screws are not easily accessible on the left side, as they are behind the X stepper and or slave board .. if y ou try to adjust using the Z screws, as soon as you tighten everything up and adjust the rollers correctly, it will just go back to where it was ... please correct me if I am wrong ...
![[TH] 2024 PMSL SEA W3D3 | Summer | ถ้าไม่ถอดใจ อะไรก็เป็นไปได้](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XNYhoNHaKvE/mqdefault.jpg)
For modifying your CR6-MAX build be see here: th-cam.com/video/Hj3GGmTr8Xg/w-d-xo.html
got it to be all green but some or negative green and positive greens but now some of the stuff i print like fidgets get stuck together and dont move im thinking its a leveling issue but not to sure anny ideas bro thanks
Thanks for the good guide! Creality's own videos drive me insane (especially the same song on every video), subscribed!
Hi Shane thanks for your down to earth and helpful vids - I am about to start on the direct drive conversion but I wanted to get to grips with the bed levelling first. The problem was that being an impatient old fart I couldn’t wait for the stuff to arrive from ali express so came up with this work around. Remove all the bed locating screws and the bed. With the screws in situ fit small silicone o rings over the screws so that they grip the screw threads snugly and make sure they are tight against the bottom of the heated bed. Refit the bed using all the spacers and rings and tighten make sure they are snug but not crushed. I took only two attempts to adjust the height by tightening the screws and got to a full green display for the first time. I like fact that the existing support structure is kept and only cost me the price of some 4mm o rings which I had laying around from a middle of Lidl purchase years ago! I am not being critical of your fix by the way if hadn’t seen it I wouldn’t have stumbled on my fix.
Hi bloke. No I understand completely. 😁👍 For me it's not about doing it my way. It's about enjoying the hobby and making things work. I'm glad you got it fixed mate. Nice work. 👍 To be honest there are so many ways to fix these things it's crazy.
I'm about to buy one of these. The first 20 videos I watched all said amazing things about this machine... not I'm starting to see the issues.
I'm still going to buy this and hopefully work through any issues.
Thanks for the video
Yeah for sure man. It's not always nessisary for some of them. Some hold their shape really well. It also depends on what you want to print 👍👍
Thanks for the tips! I had no idea about the screws underneath the print bed, and man were they loose!
Good stuff mate. Glad it helped 😊👍
Thanks mate, adjusting the level of the crossarm did the trick 👍
Love the pop culture transitions. Great video!
Thanks for the video. I had ordered 2x kits of silicone spacers thinking i was going to replace all of them. Then I saw your video. After replacing the 4x corners and manually leveling with the stock firmware. I'm all in the green except for the light blue on the far right. But that is because I overtightened the wheels and they wore out quickly. I maye throw some blue thread locker on the screws and leave it. As I have a very curious 5 year old boy who loves to turn knobs. Thanks again
Haha you're very welcome mate. Glad it's helped. How lucky are you to have a curious son. 😊 Hopefully you can both enjoy the hobby.
Thanks for the great video. I've had some issues with a used CR6 I picked up and didn't even think about the bed screws being loose. The previous owner changed them to silicon mounts. I'm used to the E3V2 but didn't even consider it on this for some reason...
Wicked dude. Glad you enjoyed 👍👍😁
Hello, I was inspired by your adjustment of the bed. what is a silicone pad please? I assume it is necessary to drill a thread on the trolley of the screw box in order to be able to adjust the height of the box? Thank you
Awesome video! I don't understand how you get those mesh numbers on the display screen. I'm using the stock firmware. Thanks again. I just read the rest of your comments here and see i need to get the community firmware. Yay! Subbed to help you get to 1k
Much appreciated bloke. Thank you. 😊👍👍 Community firmware is totally worth the upgrade. 😊👍
Thanks bro all of the screw things under the glass bed on the metal plate wore loose literally all of them in had this problem out of the box thanks liked and subscribed
Stoked that it helped you man!!! Hopefully you can now get to printing some cool shit! :-)
@@shanegoodwin2912 it helped again some of my print were have some trouble and just tried checking it with a ruler and it was a good amount uneven about to do that just waiting for something I'm printing to either fail or finish checked this videos when I noticed it was having trouble your video is under rated thanks
Print quality has significantly improved and it works way better and I am amazed I never thought about this being a problem don't think creality has good quality control
Happy days my man! Glad it has helped 🙂👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for the info. Again, I love the commentary. I’ll be doing the silicone spacer thing this week. It makes a lot of sense what your saying about those. Even creality’s new cr10smart pro printer still uses them. Hello from Canada btw!
Hey bloke! Glad you enjoyed it. :-) Yeah its totally worth it in my opinion. :-) I hope it goes well for you. With a bit of luck you'll have no troubles and have a good straight bed. :-) Keen to see how you get on. I have never been to Canada, but my parents have. They tell me your country is absolutely perfect. Ill have to visit one day. 🙂
@@shanegoodwin2912 I'll be doing everything you recommend in your video. First I'll be doing your direct drive mod. then tomorrow will be the silicone spacer once it gets here. Thank you for these videos.
ps, where in Canada did your parents visit? I'm in British Columbia Vancouver, my guess is there.
Thank you. Went from -.953 in one corner to .609 in the other corner before I made these adjustments. Measured as you showed and my cross bar was off by .5mm side to side. Made the adjustments and now I'm all green and both corners are -.147.
Thats a great outcome mate. Nice work!!
i have - blues that dont go away i tighten everything and no luck im new 3d
Great video, really struggling with my first layer atm not quite sure why and half way through troubleshooting. I just had a look at the black pegs that hold the silver bed plate above the black carriage plate, and they vary in length (at least in my case) by up to 0.4mm 😂
Hi Shane, great vid. I was in the 80% was out by .8mm and adjustment got rid of the rainbow. I just noticed in your settings that your Z Offset on both printers was around .13mm and mine seems to be around .25mm. What affects the Z offset and should mine be similar to yours?
Definitely helps!!! Thank you. I'm very new to 3-D printing. I have this same 3-D Printer.
Haha welcome to the club mate. Glad the video has helped 😁👍👍👍
I do not sub often but mate you are great i love it
Wicked mate thank you! :-) Glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully it helps for you :-)
Gr8 vid mate. Keep up.
Thanks for the info, am having rainbow readings just like what you showed. I thought id levelled the x axis enough but will try again measuring from the top, as i done it from the bed. I did notice my balance was off with the bed getting closer to the nozzle towards the back of the bed which is annoying me. Being oldschool i wish it had the adjusting knobs too as you say just to get things set then the ABL can refine it. I also think that maybe there is a cap on just how far the ABL can compensate as my prints will constantly be close to the bed in some spots, far away in others even after running the bed levelling. Ill have to take a look about silicon spacers
Agreed mate. I believe there is a bit of a limit where it starts to screw up. It's what drove me to doing this in the first place. 👍 The silicone spacers definitely work well. I can highly recomend them. 👍👍
4:20 most of these screws were completly stripped for me. a 2.5mm allen key worked perfectly for a couple, but the rest were to big for 2.5mm and too small for 3mm (i also tried the closest imperial equivelents).
Shane, did you get the silicon mounts for your CR-6 SE? I'd love to see a video on what you got and how you installed them. I also get the rainbow when I level mine. I'm also having adhesion issues when trying to print small parts like 608 bearings. Any advice on that? Thanks.
Me to I just bought 20 16mm silicone bed spacers and I'm wondering if I should add them but I'd like to see a video on the results of adding them before I go ahead with it mines not out as bad as your video utterly back rig ornery on mine is always been -3 in the blue range
@@seanwood5443 I dialed mine in as best as possible without getting the spacers. The biggest thing that has helped my printer is making sure the e-steps were set correctly. Since I set that and made sure to wash the glass bed before each print, this thing has been printing beautifully. Seeing as I am running the community firmware like Shane, I am going to look into linear advance next to see if there is more I can do make things even better.
im in - blue .327 in one corner only idk why
Appreciate the video. I am currently trying to get my bed on the cr6 max nice and level. I was considering doing something like this but wasn't sure because the bed is so much larger than the 6se. I started by grabbing a automotive feeler gauge and where it was low, I used a feeler gauge that was half the thickness of however low it was in that spot. Still working on that. Also, I found I get very different numbers on the bed when I disconnect the bowden tube while the auto level runs. Have you ever done that? Great video.
I have just recently done it to my max mate. I'll throw a video up shortly on how I did it. 😊
@@shanegoodwin2912 Very cool of you. My friend also just got a 6MAX and will be watching too. Good on ya!
Hi, I was thinking about adding the springs to my CR 6 se as well. Is that the same plate from the original bed that you use to mount the springs? Can you do a quick tutorial from start to finish on adding the springs?
Hi mate. Sure is. I have a second video that explains the process. Have you seen that one?
Excellent video! one question which software are you using in the CR6-SE
Hi mate. It's the community version of Marlin. If you've not seen it, it's found by searching "CR6-SE" or "Cr6-max community firmware" . 😊👍
Thanks Shane! May I know what size did you get for the silicone mounts? Is it 18mm or 16mm?
Hi mate. Sorry for the late reply. I didn't see this for some reason. They 18mm man. 👍
Thanks for the post, btw where can i get that metal base plate the one that holds the heated bed?
I haven't seen them for sale yet mate. I'm waiting on Creality for that one. I'm confident they'll pop up on AliExpress one day.
i think i need to add the maunual nuts and gear is there a kit for this?
Could you please send a link to these spring washers?
Did you upgrade to a dual extruder?
Hey Shane, Nice Videos!
I have a problem with underextrusion on my CR-6 SE and I don‘t know how to fix it anymore.
I mounted a new original hotend that printed 100% fine in the first print. However when starting the second print it underextruded.
I calibrated the E-steps (now 102.5) tons of times, tried different filaments, new slicing profiles, flashed the community firmware, did cold pulls on the new hot end but nothing helped. With the community firmware I adjusted the flow rate to 150% which seems to be about the right flow. But that‘s not the way it should work. Do you have any idea about the root cause of that problem?
Hi mate. Glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for the feedback. 😁👍 I have seen something like what you have said on one of my machines. It ended up being the heatbreak. The tube that goes up the center of the hotend I think can some how get cold spots in it or something like that, that causes the filament to seize. When I had this issue it wasn't until I swapped out the entire red hotend that the problem went away. It's interesting you are seeing this beyond a hot end swap though. Have you looked at the Bowden tube at all? Or tried swapping out the extruder motor? I know if the extruder motor is getting too hot, it can skip steps. Maybe you could try swapping out the motor with one of the ones on the side z axis or something like that? Just to see if it resolves anything?
@@shanegoodwin2912 Thanks a lot for your quick reply, I really appreciate it! It seems really strange as the new hotend worked well until the end on the first print. Also now when I request to extrude 100mm of filament (through the hotend and the nozzle) that also works fine. But when starting a print it just extrudes a very thin but continuous line.
However I will follow your advice and replace some parts like the red metal part and the tube from the new hotend with the old one and see if it makes a difference. If not I‘ll try to swap the steppers. But I‘m not sure if it skips steps because of overheating as the underextrusion is from the beginning of the print and as already said pretty constant. Anyways I‘ll try and see if it makes a difference. Thanks again!
@@mauricebackes888 not a problem at all mate. Sorry to hear about the troubles. I totally feel your pain. Yeah unfortunately it's most likely going to be a trial and error thing. I've gone through so many bloody parts in the past trying to work out issues. 🙄 Good luck with it bud. Hope you nail it soon.
What silicon mounts?
What screen firmware are you running
Your first measurement using the ruler to make sure the gantry is level is wholly dependant on the uprights being the same length.
Yeah this is true. People also measure from the bed. That's also a great way to do it.
How do you get the actual numbers from the leveling process (your rainbow screen)? It is probably firmware update.
Hey bloke. Yeah that's the one. There are heaps of videos on here explaining how to update the firmware to the community version. It's totally worth the effort 👍👍
can you make full tutorial
just sub you good video
before you do anything, raise your X-rail to the top of the gantry, and make sure it is the same distance from the top gantry rail on both sides ... don't always assume that it is the bed that is not level ...
Pretty sure that's what I said to do there bro. Did you even watch the video?
@@shanegoodwin2912 Sorry. Mate ..I skipped over that . I had looked at 100 videos, and was just sorta skipping thru 'em ..... but ... if your rollers are all adjusted properly, you will never get your X-rail level with the gantry by adjusting the Z screws ... the X-rail can only be adjusted for level with the gantry by loosening the 4 screws that hold the roller plates to the X-rail. and adjusting level with them loose. The problem is that on most printers, these screws are not easily accessible on the left side, as they are behind the X stepper and or slave board .. if y ou try to adjust using the Z screws, as soon as you tighten everything up and adjust the rollers correctly, it will just go back to where it was ... please correct me if I am wrong ...
Great name! Lmao
How you get this colored Menu? I dont have this.
You need to upgrade to the community firmware man. Just Google cr6 community firmware 👌
How do i get to that menu where i can see the values
Hey bloke. You need to update the firmware to the community firmware. It's a pretty easy task. Plenty of videos on here that explain it for you. 😊👍
@@shanegoodwin2912 thx will look it up
Best of luck with it mate. I hope you get it on. 👍👍
@@shanegoodwin2912 i got it to work but now i need to fix the rainbow...
Not sure how im going to do that without having to buy parts for it 🤔😂
Informative video. All of the video clip[s took away from the usefulness. Stay on point and leave the comedy to Seinfeld.
Hi All, I have a tutorial posted now explaining the process of modding your bed. Details are all in the video for you.
how you remove the back of the bed
i cant remove it the screws the tool it came with it dont fit to
thank you
@@veemajeno7511 mate you slide the bed forward and pull it up off the aluminium a little while you do it. It can be a little stiff.
@@shanegoodwin2912 thank you got it i have blue numbers when auto leveling bed it wont go away
@@veemajeno7511 oofff. OK. Definitely a good option for you then mate. You should be able to tram that a little better then 👍
@@shanegoodwin2912 i thighten everything down and still no luck blue still there
im new to 3d printing
Why don't buy an ender 3 pro with an bl touch???
Stop with the cartoon. Excessive
So don't watch it ya spanker. You want it better, you make the video. 🍆🍆🍆🍆