I agree and am not sure how all of the video I've watched are having good prints because they are using a feeler gauge but not explaining the offset!!! @@RickyImpey
Rick, thanks for your vídeo. I'm a at 3D Printer, bought a CR-10 Smat Pro and before this vídeo I was 15 days suffering with this problem, almost sending my printer to some place to check what's happening. I followed all your instructions and now it was perfect. You changed my life, really... thanks and keep doing this amazing work, please!
I had a printer that was inconsistent at best with saving its zeros. I never did the leveling by disengagin the stepper motor because I had the auto leveler. I was a fool. This video has fixed a long time problem and hours of my life. Thank you.
Cant say thank you enough, have watched so many videos where there was misinformation about the z offset. I applied what you showed in this video and instantly had perfect bed results. Thanks!
I've been battling an unlevel bed and the cr touch since the beginning of January and have not had an success. I've tried many different videos of tutorials and none have worked. Running the bed level now and hopefully this is the video that has saved me from this everlasting nightmare
This video turned my FDM printing experience upside-down. I was moments from giving up, after weeks spent trying to fine tune my CR-10s Pro V2 only to constantly have terrible first layer adhesion issues. I regret not finding your video before: all this time, I've been setting my Z offset wrong! 0.2 mm from the bed, when it should be touching. Also, the gantry wasn't fully level. Right now I'm running my first ever smooth print: little to no stringing, everything sticking to the bed without the need to use rafts... FINALLY! It looks like I can finally enjoy this hobby! 😂 I won't ever stop thanking you for this insightful video!
This video literally saved me from completely giving up on 3d printing. I had my printer working perfectly for months then 1 day boom it stopped working. No matter how many times I leveled it and changed settings, it was always the same thing. Followed this code guide and boom it’s perfect. My only question is why did it work perfectly fine for multiple prints and then all the sudden go crazy?
Just came by a new to me Artillery Genius Pro where I replaced the glass bed. This tutorial could not come at a better time for me. Thanks to the creator and the algorithm for suggesting it now.
Wanna give you a HUGE thanks for this video! I've been printing for over a year now. First printer the CR6-SE. Recently ran into problems where I could get NOTHING to stick, even on glue and hairspray. I levelled and relevelled so many times. Watched more and more levelling videos. Eventually I was so defeated I bought a Ender 3 S1 Pro. But again, I couldnt level it! Prints were warping from the plate and i swore on my life I had it levelled. You are the ONLY person who has gone over levelling a printer that has addressed the Z offset. I had been setting it as far as the paper/feel gauge. I had NO idea it was meant to be touching the bed! After doing this, and adding that gcode in, the warping is fixed! I have subscribed because you for sure deserve it. Now I will be able to level my CR6-SE and have 2 printers going =0 My only gripe with the S1 Pro is the .05 z adjustments, wish you could go finer with .01. I had to choose between the nozzle being about .02/.03 above the bed or lowering it an extra .05 and touching. I've only tried it lower and it worked. At this stage I'm too scared to adjust it up and screwing things up. Anyways, thank you so much!
Wow, what a great comment, thanks! Nothing motivates me to make better content more than hearing how something I've said has helped someone. I'm so glad to hear that you can now use your printers as you want to. Thanks for taking the time to comment 👍
THANK YOU!!!! After three months of not getting a single good print out of my new Ender 3 S1, I've decided to relevel everything with your technique - still the z-offset was too low by ~0.3mm for some reason at first (driving the nozzle into the bed), but after live-adjusting it I am getting a reasonable first layer. Gone are those endless nights of levelling!
Hello, im having trouble leveling my ender 3 s1, youve got the same model. Can j contact you whenever you're available and ask you some questions about leveling the bed? I have been struggling for quite a while. Thanks
did you use Z3 or Z10? i see both used on different forums. i am about to burn my printer down because the bed is never leveled. i didnt know i had to save the mesh and call it in cura. ender 2 s1 instructions never mentioned it
I had a warped heat plate on my Ender 3 and ended up having to replace it. Before going back to the headache of re-leveling all over again, I watched this video and since following this advice, my prints are 1000 times cleaner and I no longer have to re-level the machine between each print. The Gcode advice to edit in Cura was an absolute lifesaver. Thank you for providing such helpful information! You're a printsaver!
There's an easy fix for this. Simply place 1 or 2 squares of ordinary paper under the magnetic PEI pad right in the center of bed. That's where the dip is, once I did this, I was able to place a ground steel bar on the bed (actually on top of the PEI) and it's now perfectly flat. I used a 3" square, on another printer I used a 6" square on top of a 3" square. I have 3 of these printers, all 3 had same issue.
This guide is phenomenal. So much good information in such a short, clear, and concise video. I had a bit of fiasco after updating the firmware on my printer and I've been having a hell of a time leveling it again. So many of the other guides out there had contradictory information. This video is absolutely fantastic.
got my first printer two weeks ago, did some test cubes and a benchy which were decent. after that i set out to conquer the torture toaster with no luck so far. i failed 6/6 attempts, and those were all due to wrapping after the 3rd or 4th layer. now i set my printer according to this guide, and i'm ready to try again, wish me luck!
I just want to say that i am extremely grateful for this video. I run my modded ender 5 on klipper and completely changed everything but the frame at this point. Added CRTOUCH to my setup and could not for the life of me find out why i couldn't get a good first layer. Everything i did was working great for the infill layers but never for the first layer walls. After watching your video, specifically the part about the Z Offset. I learned the way klipper has you level the bed using BLTouch wasn't accurate enough for my printer. Zeroing out the nozzle to touch the bed fixed my problem and now I'm getting insanely beautiful first layers. Thank you SO MUCH!!!
I got my new printer last week. I plugged it in and ran off some perfect prints. Then I watched some videos and decided to make it better. It took me awhile to get it back the way it was 🙂
Thank you!!! I was fine with manual leveling, and then was frustrated tremendously once I added CR Touch to my Ender 3 Pro. Updated the firmware to Marlin 2.1.x and followed your video and I’m getting excellent results! Keep up the great work!
This video should be labelled as "Public Utility". I already had a printer without a bed probe but I bought a Ender 3 S1. I had trouble understanding how the Z offset worked and the mesh (I flashed the Marlin firmware). The mesh didn't seem to work because it printed too low or too high depending of the places. I followed your tutorial step by step and it works perfectly ! Thanks a lot ! I don't understand why the M420 line isn't here by default on Cura but now I have it ! Thanks again !
This has to be, hands down, the most comprehensive guide for bed leveling, tramming, setting thatz offset and getting a perfect first layer overall. Sadly, almost no printer comes with a firmware that makes it easy to set up, but for all of you who have an Ender 3 Series Printer, Profesional Firmware has some auto tramming capabilities that semi automate the task, and can generate bed meshes of up to 9x9. Following this guide with such a firmware definitely will make for a perfect leveling, every time.
Excellent video! I´ve been leveling my Ender 3 Neo for the last week, following several videos with no luck, until I found this one! The best-of-all-print-leveling-video.. I followed it to the letter and I´m finally printing with great quality! The final and crucial tip was to save the mesh to the slicer (in my case Prusaslicer). It kept the leveling through all my printings. Thank you very very much! You gained another subscriber!! Greetings from Argentina!
I cannot thank you enough for taking the time going through the steps of this process. Being new to the 3D printing hobby I have relied heavily on TH-cam videos and feedback from friends and other 3D printing enthusiasts. I have found in most cases the feedback or videos where like drinking from a fire hose. Either they are using software, hardware, filament, and calibrations that are outside my experience or they forgot what it was like to be new to the hobby. They unintentionally skimmed over some key areas or went too in depth in areas I am not even ready to jump into. I also found due to what they are printing compared to what I am looking to start with were another contributing factors in my failures. I gave up on my Ender 3 Pro and was thankful your example was relevant for me. I upgraded to the same sidewinder and it was refreshing to see someone walking through the process. It helped explain contributing factors as to why I was failing with my existing printing and configurations. If you ever need another topic, I could use help printing miniatures for table top gaming. The smaller the miniature with detail is, the more obstacles I have faced. I have been told resin is the way to go, but unfortunately I don't see purchasing the printer and required accessories in the near future. Thanks again for a great video and look forward to new content.
Thanks for your comment. It's great to have feedback to help me know if i'm pitching the videos correctly. I know exactly what you mean about the fire hose of information in many videos. Very often it's just too much to follow. I will give the miniatures some thought, it's not really my speciality but some do manage to get good quality with small details on FDM machines. The first thing i would recommend would be trying a smaller nozzle like 0.2mm. That can really help but remember to change your slicer settings accordingly.
@@RickyImpey I appreciate the suggestion and placed an order for 0.2mm nozzles. I made a note to update the slicer settings once I install the smaller nozzle as well, thank you. I am going to spend the next few days going through your catalog to see if you already covered some of my pain points with miniatures. Adding supports, speed of print, angle of the item versus the bed and nozzle, etc. etc.
Thanks a lot!!. I was not aware of the function of adjusting the Z axis by touching the bed of the printer. An essential video to calibrate your printer like a pro.
Creality should just link to this video to level beds and pay you for it, their video made me drive the nozzle into my glass bed. Going to re-level using this method, thank you so much for this.
thank you for that video ! Recently i bought artillery x2 printer and after some time i had issued with bad bed leveling. After your clearly instructions everything works brilliant ! Thank you.
I am soo soo happy i found your video Ricky. .it's very comprehensive and very well explained in very easy to understand stages. I've been struggling to get my v1 Cr10s-pro bed calibrated. I think you are the only one who had explained the importance of Stage 5 Zero Z-axis!! My hotbed is now kaput but with your guidance I am still able to achieve a good print. THank you very much!
i've been fighting with my printer, and breaking bed mats and have not gotten but ONE print right on my printer. I will try this when i get a chance and reply that this worked as i am sure it will. everything ive been told up to this point has contradicted your video as well as my understanding... sooo THANK YOU!!!!
@@RickyImpey it actually did a lot really. my mesh isnt "great" but its working.. the Z height starts getting a little iffy maybe but that was only on a stress test.. alli in one stress i htink it was called. great info!
You Sir, deserve a subscribe. Pleasent voice and on the point. I keep forgetting that Z=0 should be just that..0...Printing PETG on my new PEI sheet like it was peanutbutter on toast.
M420 S1 is a game changer! Thank you so much! I always knew that the printer doesn't use bed mesh and I had to tune the first layer every time. The problem is finally gone.
Awesome, glad it helped. Creality have said that they have configured the firmware so that the M420 code is not needed but so many are finding that it is.
Great video! Wish I had seen it before I started 3D-printing, has a few important steps that are omitted in other guides, including from the manufacturer! Thanks Ricky.
I was trying to following these steps, but ended up destroyed my bed. 😢 Now I’m not blaming the video, I’m sure the advice is genuinely great; but I obviously got something wrong! I started with restoring default settings and then set out to follow each step faithfully from the start. Once I got to the “Level Bed” step my Ender-3 with a CR-touch completed the cycle, but then buried my nozzle into the magnetic pad - burning a hold right through it… 😮 After ordering a new magnetic pad, I decided to try again. I restored default settings once again (this time double-checking that the probe z offset was 000.0), and the second time I did not get a (second) hole in my pad. Feeling a bit encouraged, I completed the tutorial and set the probe z offset. However, when I started printing, the nozzle was way too far from the bed. This was actually the problem I had to start off with, which led me to search and finding this video; so I’m back to wondering… if the Z probe offset is theoretically correct, what would then cause the printer to print with the nozzle so far off?
I was given a suggestion to reset my home offsets. I did so, realizing that I should compensate for the bed surface having been lowered from tightening the springs; resulting in lowering my Z axis by 0.4mm before re-setting. I re-measured my probe Z offset, set it, and got a good print! However, I'm just as confused... I thought the probe Z-offset was strictly about the relationship between the nozzle and the probe, and thus would be constant regardless of home offset?
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Hey Ricky, thanks for this wonderful video, now I see why I hated my BLTouch, apparently I was using it in a wrong way. I've updated my firmware and enabled the bed leveling menu and following your directions I now got excellent first layers again, thank you man. Always a big fan of your videos 👍
This is an amazing video. Thank you for making it. If you have some extra time please do one with a Sovol SV04 , it is a pain in the ass to level this printer. It took me hours. But after watching a video I was able to make it. I can't thank you enough.
I’ve had my genius pro since June and level has been my worst enemy. This video was an exceptional amount of help. Not just in the level process but so much off what settings are for, do and how the Z hight adjustments on Artillery specifically work Cheers
Thank you for all of your videos, they are the reason I'm now printing smoothly on my ender V2 with CRtouch. I did not have to watch any other videos besides yours and the process was very straightforward and enjoyable throughout with your help 👍🏽 Much appreciated.
Thanks a lot, started working with the genius pro which worked fine out of the box until it didn't. Just mesing with settings did not help. got it working now thanks to your video!
That's for the good videos,I have learned a lot from them. Could you PLEASE do a video on how,and what parts you used to connect the 2 z rods together, thanks
I watched a tutorial already on how to level the bed, but thanks for confirming that I'm not crazy lol. I thought it would just level itself with the push of a button. When it started printing half an inch above the bed surface I then did some googling and youtubing and found you still have to manually level the bed.
Whoa! Thank you so much for making a tutorial with your Artillery printer! It seems like no-one ever covers the slight differences with these, troubleshooting shooting them can be really frustrating sometimes.
This is amazing and enlightening video. I didn't understand the concept of Z-offset, but this video explained it to me! I was suffering with bed levelling on my Ender 3 V2 for sooo long, but this fixed for me. Although, another newbie mistake - I hade G28 AFTER my M420 gcode, which, from marlin docs: By default G28 disables bed leveling. Follow with M420 S to turn leveling on. So basically I was trying to print stuff without having the actual mesh usage enabled :D
Perfect perfect perfect. I'm only learning about the auto level function of my printer now, and I'm surprised that Cura doesn't automatically input the M420 command. Why would they omit that? Who doesn't use a level bed mesh?
I have since discovered that the m420 command is bugged in older versions of the Marlin firmware and my Anycubic printer uses older firmware, thus making my prints trash. When I used S1 Z10, the print was stretched 1.5x for 10 layers. When I used Z1, the print would be disconnected after the first layer of print. Using Z0 grinds the extruders into the bed. Something to look out for.
wow, i didn't have the gcode lines so it was just printing on the very rough level i set thinking the bltouch would refine from there. also didn't know the nozzle was supposed to be touching the bed. good video!
TIL that I've never been using my printer's generated bed mesh because I didn't have it set to do so in Cura (*smacks forehead*). Thank you for this video lol
Thank you for this video been printing for 2 years and I still learned so much watching this that I didn’t know could you maybe do a video on printing silks with a Boden tube I’d love to see your opinion and your help( I have the fabled extruder click issue
Nice tutorial. And the last part about the start M420 gcode command is the one almost every other reviewer leaves out. Unfortunately, the manufacturers leave this out too in some cases, the Artillery X2 for example. And even worse, the CURA software they include DOES NOT HAVE THE epron read line, it starts with G28 which wipes out the leveling data! And they don't include instructions in the installation manual either. Spectacularly stupid considering it is a great printer. Further, if you open the gcode test print file on the USB stick with notepad, you will see they used Slic3r instead of CURA to make the test model... which is even funnier. But at least that code has the M420 command. By the way you didn't mention the "Fade" code you used (Z10). For those that don't know, the Fade command REMOVES the leveling mesh over the hight in mm you pick. You picked 10mm which is (IMHO) way to high. No need to go that high, again, IMHO. 3 to 4 is plenty in most cases and makes the part more dimensionally accurate.
Ah I was doing everything right bar one thing…. I was adjusting the z offset down to the thickness of a piece of paper. Now I know it needs to be with the nozzle touching the bed! No wonder I’ve had adhesion issues! Thank you so much!
@@RickyImpey I have a Sovol sv06 the manual clearly says to use paper to set the z offset, I assumed it would take the paper thickness into account and save the correct dimensions?
@@edreeder9743 Unfortunately it's very unlikely that it does. Paper can obviously be different thicknesses but the manufacturers want to make setup seem as easy as possible. In the real world, the home position shouldhave the nozzle just kissing the bed. Any gap will increase the first layer thickness.
I was wondering why my printer was printing too high. I was setting the offset with a piece of paper then when the printer started to print it started a piece of paper width too high.. Now I understand coming from the old CR-10 with the limit switch.... Thanks a Million for this video.. Maybe you could do the video with the Cr-10 printer as I just bought the pro v2 version..
With Marlin firmware it appears you should use a 0.1mm feeler gauge when setting the Z Offset. The firmware subtracts this thickness when saving the offset.
Rick, amazing video and instructions! Thank u very much!!! Just one doubt, in my case I'm using the Sonic Pad, at this case I need add the line "M420 S1 z10"? Thank you once more
Thanks for the leveling advice on the Artillery, now I just need to find why mine has hundreds or random horrible horizontal lines through every print.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 87 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "ก้องชัย vs โชคปรีชา"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YN6e7HVnekw/mqdefault.jpg)
This makes up for the 300 bad guides on youtube. Thank you Ricky.
Thanks👍
I agree and am not sure how all of the video I've watched are having good prints because they are using a feeler gauge but not explaining the offset!!! @@RickyImpey
You have no idea how helpful this was as a complete newbie to 3D printing
Glad it helped 👍 Thanks for the comment
I second that, i was having a complete nightmare getting bed levelled until i saw this video.
Rick, thanks for your vídeo. I'm a at 3D Printer, bought a CR-10 Smat Pro and before this vídeo I was 15 days suffering with this problem, almost sending my printer to some place to check what's happening. I followed all your instructions and now it was perfect. You changed my life, really... thanks and keep doing this amazing work, please!
Awesome, I'm glad my video made the difference👍
I had a printer that was inconsistent at best with saving its zeros. I never did the leveling by disengagin the stepper motor because I had the auto leveler. I was a fool. This video has fixed a long time problem and hours of my life. Thank you.
Awesome 👍
One of the most well explained and clear understanding video on bed levelling. Thank you
This guy should win a frickin' Nobel prize, the peace of mind he gave me after I finished the leveling deserves it...
Just bought X2 as my first printer, with these tips got everything adjusted properly and now it prints perfectly. Thank you!
Were u having stringy prints beforehand? I seem to be having issues with my X2 after adding this new PLA +
Not all heroes wear capes.. some level printer beds and tell us about it. THANK YOU SOOO MUCH for this video!!!!
Ha ha, thanks for the awesome comment 👍
Cant say thank you enough, have watched so many videos where there was misinformation about the z offset. I applied what you showed in this video and instantly had perfect bed results. Thanks!
Exactly! Couldn't be more appreciative.
I've been battling an unlevel bed and the cr touch since the beginning of January and have not had an success. I've tried many different videos of tutorials and none have worked. Running the bed level now and hopefully this is the video that has saved me from this everlasting nightmare
You don't know how thankful I am to have found someone who is actually HELPFUL! thank you!
M240 was the missing part of my bed levelling jigsaw...thanks a ton!
This is hands down the best bed-levelling video I have come across. I do this every time now I get a new printer. Unreal stuff.
Glad you enjoyed the video Christian. Thanks for the comment 👍
This video turned my FDM printing experience upside-down.
I was moments from giving up, after weeks spent trying to fine tune my CR-10s Pro V2 only to constantly have terrible first layer adhesion issues.
I regret not finding your video before: all this time, I've been setting my Z offset wrong! 0.2 mm from the bed, when it should be touching. Also, the gantry wasn't fully level.
Right now I'm running my first ever smooth print: little to no stringing, everything sticking to the bed without the need to use rafts... FINALLY! It looks like I can finally enjoy this hobby! 😂
I won't ever stop thanking you for this insightful video!
At last! This is exactly right. No myths or magic nonsense, just pure engineering.
This video literally saved me from completely giving up on 3d printing. I had my printer working perfectly for months then 1 day boom it stopped working. No matter how many times I leveled it and changed settings, it was always the same thing. Followed this code guide and boom it’s perfect. My only question is why did it work perfectly fine for multiple prints and then all the sudden go crazy?
this guide is perfect man.... every 3d printer manufacturer should just include a link to this video in their user manual.
Thanks for the information, specially the GCODE part, its explained why my auto leveling not working
Just came by a new to me Artillery Genius Pro where I replaced the glass bed. This tutorial could not come at a better time for me. Thanks to the creator and the algorithm for suggesting it now.
Wanna give you a HUGE thanks for this video! I've been printing for over a year now. First printer the CR6-SE. Recently ran into problems where I could get NOTHING to stick, even on glue and hairspray. I levelled and relevelled so many times. Watched more and more levelling videos. Eventually I was so defeated I bought a Ender 3 S1 Pro.
But again, I couldnt level it! Prints were warping from the plate and i swore on my life I had it levelled.
You are the ONLY person who has gone over levelling a printer that has addressed the Z offset. I had been setting it as far as the paper/feel gauge. I had NO idea it was meant to be touching the bed! After doing this, and adding that gcode in, the warping is fixed! I have subscribed because you for sure deserve it. Now I will be able to level my CR6-SE and have 2 printers going =0
My only gripe with the S1 Pro is the .05 z adjustments, wish you could go finer with .01. I had to choose between the nozzle being about .02/.03 above the bed or lowering it an extra .05 and touching. I've only tried it lower and it worked. At this stage I'm too scared to adjust it up and screwing things up.
Anyways, thank you so much!
Wow, what a great comment, thanks! Nothing motivates me to make better content more than hearing how something I've said has helped someone. I'm so glad to hear that you can now use your printers as you want to. Thanks for taking the time to comment 👍
THANK YOU!!!!
After three months of not getting a single good print out of my new Ender 3 S1, I've decided to relevel everything with your technique - still the z-offset was too low by ~0.3mm for some reason at first (driving the nozzle into the bed), but after live-adjusting it I am getting a reasonable first layer. Gone are those endless nights of levelling!
Hello, im having trouble leveling my ender 3 s1, youve got the same model. Can j contact you whenever you're available and ask you some questions about leveling the bed? I have been struggling for quite a while. Thanks
did you use Z3 or Z10? i see both used on different forums. i am about to burn my printer down because the bed is never leveled. i didnt know i had to save the mesh and call it in cura. ender 2 s1 instructions never mentioned it
I had a warped heat plate on my Ender 3 and ended up having to replace it. Before going back to the headache of re-leveling all over again, I watched this video and since following this advice, my prints are 1000 times cleaner and I no longer have to re-level the machine between each print. The Gcode advice to edit in Cura was an absolute lifesaver.
Thank you for providing such helpful information! You're a printsaver!
Awesome, really glad the video helped👍
There's an easy fix for this. Simply place 1 or 2 squares of ordinary paper under the magnetic PEI pad right in the center of bed. That's where the dip is, once I did this, I was able to place a ground steel bar on the bed (actually on top of the PEI) and it's now perfectly flat. I used a 3" square, on another printer I used a 6" square on top of a 3" square. I have 3 of these printers, all 3 had same issue.
This guide is phenomenal. So much good information in such a short, clear, and concise video. I had a bit of fiasco after updating the firmware on my printer and I've been having a hell of a time leveling it again. So many of the other guides out there had contradictory information. This video is absolutely fantastic.
The best instructions I have seen for levelling the bed of my Artillery sidewinder ii. Thank you Ricky.
You are a genius! I have lots of problems adjusting my printer, this is the best solution ever, thanks!!!
Hands down THE best guide. So many other lead people astray
A BIG THANK YOU FROM VENEZUELA I WAS HAVING TROUBLE LEVELING MY ARTILLERY X2. GREAT VIDEO.👍👍👍👍
got my first printer two weeks ago, did some test cubes and a benchy which were decent. after that i set out to conquer the torture toaster with no luck so far. i failed 6/6 attempts, and those were all due to wrapping after the 3rd or 4th layer. now i set my printer according to this guide, and i'm ready to try again, wish me luck!
Update: worked like a charm, thanks!
Thank you so much Ricky. I didn’t even know that the nozzle was supposed to actually TOUCH the bed surface when in the z offset menu!
I just want to say that i am extremely grateful for this video. I run my modded ender 5 on klipper and completely changed everything but the frame at this point. Added CRTOUCH to my setup and could not for the life of me find out why i couldn't get a good first layer. Everything i did was working great for the infill layers but never for the first layer walls. After watching your video, specifically the part about the Z Offset. I learned the way klipper has you level the bed using BLTouch wasn't accurate enough for my printer. Zeroing out the nozzle to touch the bed fixed my problem and now I'm getting insanely beautiful first layers. Thank you SO MUCH!!!
I got my new printer last week. I plugged it in and ran off some perfect prints. Then I watched some videos and decided to make it better. It took me awhile to get it back the way it was 🙂
2 years late but i think you helped solved my leveling issue, thanks brother
Thank you!!! I was fine with manual leveling, and then was frustrated tremendously once I added CR Touch to my Ender 3 Pro. Updated the firmware to Marlin 2.1.x and followed your video and I’m getting excellent results! Keep up the great work!
Your method makes the most sense in all of youtube
2 months trying to figure this out... you helped me so much friend. thank you! cheers!
OMG THIS VIDEO SAVED ME AFTER HOURS OF FRUSTRATION! Thank you so much!
This video should be labelled as "Public Utility". I already had a printer without a bed probe but I bought a Ender 3 S1. I had trouble understanding how the Z offset worked and the mesh (I flashed the Marlin firmware). The mesh didn't seem to work because it printed too low or too high depending of the places. I followed your tutorial step by step and it works perfectly ! Thanks a lot !
I don't understand why the M420 line isn't here by default on Cura but now I have it !
Thanks again !
Thanks for the comment, really glad the video helped
This has to be, hands down, the most comprehensive guide for bed leveling, tramming, setting thatz offset and getting a perfect first layer overall.
Sadly, almost no printer comes with a firmware that makes it easy to set up, but for all of you who have an Ender 3 Series Printer, Profesional Firmware has some auto tramming capabilities that semi automate the task, and can generate bed meshes of up to 9x9. Following this guide with such a firmware definitely will make for a perfect leveling, every time.
Excellent video! I´ve been leveling my Ender 3 Neo for the last week, following several videos with no luck, until I found this one! The best-of-all-print-leveling-video.. I followed it to the letter and I´m finally printing with great quality! The final and crucial tip was to save the mesh to the slicer (in my case Prusaslicer). It kept the leveling through all my printings. Thank you very very much! You gained another subscriber!! Greetings from Argentina!
Awesome! Glad the video helped, welcome👍
I cannot thank you enough for taking the time going through the steps of this process.
Being new to the 3D printing hobby I have relied heavily on TH-cam videos and feedback from friends and other 3D printing enthusiasts. I have found in most cases the feedback or videos where like drinking from a fire hose.
Either they are using software, hardware, filament, and calibrations that are outside my experience or they forgot what it was like to be new to the hobby. They unintentionally skimmed over some key areas or went too in depth in areas I am not even ready to jump into. I also found due to what they are printing compared to what I am looking to start with were another contributing factors in my failures.
I gave up on my Ender 3 Pro and was thankful your example was relevant for me. I upgraded to the same sidewinder and it was refreshing to see someone walking through the process. It helped explain contributing factors as to why I was failing with my existing printing and configurations.
If you ever need another topic, I could use help printing miniatures for table top gaming. The smaller the miniature with detail is, the more obstacles I have faced. I have been told resin is the way to go, but unfortunately I don't see purchasing the printer and required accessories in the near future.
Thanks again for a great video and look forward to new content.
Thanks for your comment. It's great to have feedback to help me know if i'm pitching the videos correctly. I know exactly what you mean about the fire hose of information in many videos. Very often it's just too much to follow.
I will give the miniatures some thought, it's not really my speciality but some do manage to get good quality with small details on FDM machines.
The first thing i would recommend would be trying a smaller nozzle like 0.2mm. That can really help but remember to change your slicer settings accordingly.
@@RickyImpey I appreciate the suggestion and placed an order for 0.2mm nozzles. I made a note to update the slicer settings once I install the smaller nozzle as well, thank you.
I am going to spend the next few days going through your catalog to see if you already covered some of my pain points with miniatures.
Adding supports, speed of print, angle of the item versus the bed and nozzle, etc. etc.
Thanks a lot!!. I was not aware of the function of adjusting the Z axis by touching the bed of the printer. An essential video to calibrate your printer like a pro.
Hey Rick Thank You so much for step1,step2,step3,step4,step5 & step6 WoW THE End!!
Once again we have a brilliantly simple and understandable explanation. Thank you!
Creality should just link to this video to level beds and pay you for it, their video made me drive the nozzle into my glass bed. Going to re-level using this method, thank you so much for this.
Thankyou so much you have literallly just saved my business......
thank you for that video ! Recently i bought artillery x2 printer and after some time i had issued with bad bed leveling. After your clearly instructions everything works brilliant ! Thank you.
I am soo soo happy i found your video Ricky. .it's very comprehensive and very well explained in very easy to understand stages. I've been struggling to get my v1 Cr10s-pro bed calibrated. I think you are the only one who had explained the importance of Stage 5 Zero Z-axis!! My hotbed is now kaput but with your guidance I am still able to achieve a good print. THank you very much!
Glad the video was helpful👍
Thank you! Your instructions are the clearest for me out of all the others.👍👍
Beautiful. I just bought my CR Touch and am looking forward to installing it.
Hey Ricky,,
Because of your help I was able to print 3d crocodile 😀
Thank you so much
i've been fighting with my printer, and breaking bed mats and have not gotten but ONE print right on my printer. I will try this when i get a chance and reply that this worked as i am sure it will. everything ive been told up to this point has contradicted your video as well as my understanding... sooo THANK YOU!!!!
I really hope this method helps you. Let me know.
@@RickyImpey it actually did a lot really. my mesh isnt "great" but its working.. the Z height starts getting a little iffy maybe but that was only on a stress test.. alli in one stress i htink it was called. great info!
You Sir, deserve a subscribe. Pleasent voice and on the point. I keep forgetting that Z=0 should be just that..0...Printing PETG on my new PEI sheet like it was peanutbutter on toast.
M420 S1 is a game changer! Thank you so much! I always knew that the printer doesn't use bed mesh and I had to tune the first layer every time. The problem is finally gone.
Awesome, glad it helped. Creality have said that they have configured the firmware so that the M420 code is not needed but so many are finding that it is.
Thanks my friend. I learned many things that I am going to apply to level the printer well. Thank you so much
I wish this was the guide I first looked at when I got my X2.. I have a few bed scratches rn lol. Perfect guide tbh.
OMG Thank you so much! Your explanations were so clear and consise, it works great now!
Thx. I always was close to a perfect lvl but now I learned that the nozzle has to touch the middle. This was the last puzzle piece.
Great video! Wish I had seen it before I started 3D-printing, has a few important steps that are omitted in other guides, including from the manufacturer! Thanks Ricky.
Glad it helped 👍
I was trying to following these steps, but ended up destroyed my bed. 😢 Now I’m not blaming the video, I’m sure the advice is genuinely great; but I obviously got something wrong! I started with restoring default settings and then set out to follow each step faithfully from the start. Once I got to the “Level Bed” step my Ender-3 with a CR-touch completed the cycle, but then buried my nozzle into the magnetic pad - burning a hold right through it… 😮
After ordering a new magnetic pad, I decided to try again. I restored default settings once again (this time double-checking that the probe z offset was 000.0), and the second time I did not get a (second) hole in my pad. Feeling a bit encouraged, I completed the tutorial and set the probe z offset. However, when I started printing, the nozzle was way too far from the bed.
This was actually the problem I had to start off with, which led me to search and finding this video; so I’m back to wondering… if the Z probe offset is theoretically correct, what would then cause the printer to print with the nozzle so far off?
I was given a suggestion to reset my home offsets. I did so, realizing that I should compensate for the bed surface having been lowered from tightening the springs; resulting in lowering my Z axis by 0.4mm before re-setting. I re-measured my probe Z offset, set it, and got a good print! However, I'm just as confused... I thought the probe Z-offset was strictly about the relationship between the nozzle and the probe, and thus would be constant regardless of home offset?
Hey Ricky, thanks for this wonderful video, now I see why I hated my BLTouch, apparently I was using it in a wrong way. I've updated my firmware and enabled the bed leveling menu and following your directions I now got excellent first layers again, thank you man. Always a big fan of your videos 👍
Thank you for this comment, I love hearing how one of my videos has helped fix a problem or helped someone understand something better👍
Just wanted to say a massive thankyou! Been trying for ages, this methode worked!
You're welcome!
This is an amazing video. Thank you for making it. If you have some extra time please do one with a Sovol SV04 , it is a pain in the ass to level this printer. It took me hours. But after watching a video I was able to make it. I can't thank you enough.
I’ve had my genius pro since June and level has been my worst enemy. This video was an exceptional amount of help. Not just in the level process but so much off what settings are for, do and how the Z hight adjustments on Artillery specifically work
Cheers
Really glad it helped 👍
Thank you for all of your videos, they are the reason I'm now printing smoothly on my ender V2 with CRtouch. I did not have to watch any other videos besides yours and the process was very straightforward and enjoyable throughout with your help 👍🏽 Much appreciated.
Thanks for this comment Kyan. Hearing that my videos have helped anyone is all the motivation I need to keep making them👍
@@RickyImpey You are most welcome Ricky! Keep up the great work, it will take you far 👍🏽
Thank you for the detailed tutorial. My printer is now perfect.
Awesome, job done🙂
Thanks a lot, started working with the genius pro which worked fine out of the box until it didn't. Just mesing with settings did not help. got it working now thanks to your video!
This worked so well on my Artillery X2. Brilliant step by step and has really helped me learn a lot. Thankyou.
Thanks Sheldon. Super informative tutorial.
That's for the good videos,I have learned a lot from them.
Could you PLEASE do a video on how,and what parts you used to connect the 2 z rods together, thanks
I watched a tutorial already on how to level the bed, but thanks for confirming that I'm not crazy lol. I thought it would just level itself with the push of a button. When it started printing half an inch above the bed surface I then did some googling and youtubing and found you still have to manually level the bed.
Yes, unfortunately calling it 'automatic' bed leveling is a terrible idea.
Whoa! Thank you so much for making a tutorial with your Artillery printer! It seems like no-one ever covers the slight differences with these, troubleshooting shooting them can be really frustrating sometimes.
Do you recommend to do an auto bed level senser adjust for every print that is to be made on the SIDEWINDER X-2 ?
I wish I had seen this video before trying to level my X2 out of the box. Hopefully, whatever I have already done is recoverable! Thanks for posting.
I'm sure it will be fine👍
Thank you for this lifesaving tutorial.👍😃
Dudddeee... thanks for the M420 S1 Z10 code! I always thought that bed leveling for each print was completely unnecessary!
This is amazing and enlightening video. I didn't understand the concept of Z-offset, but this video explained it to me! I was suffering with bed levelling on my Ender 3 V2 for sooo long, but this fixed for me. Although, another newbie mistake - I hade G28 AFTER my M420 gcode, which, from marlin docs: By default G28 disables bed leveling. Follow with M420 S to turn leveling on. So basically I was trying to print stuff without having the actual mesh usage enabled :D
Amazing guide!!! I found it extremely helpful and it helped me finally use my CR Touch properly!! Print are coming out great now. Thank you
Awesome👍
Perfect perfect perfect. I'm only learning about the auto level function of my printer now, and I'm surprised that Cura doesn't automatically input the M420 command. Why would they omit that? Who doesn't use a level bed mesh?
I have since discovered that the m420 command is bugged in older versions of the Marlin firmware and my Anycubic printer uses older firmware, thus making my prints trash. When I used S1 Z10, the print was stretched 1.5x for 10 layers. When I used Z1, the print would be disconnected after the first layer of print. Using Z0 grinds the extruders into the bed. Something to look out for.
wow, i didn't have the gcode lines so it was just printing on the very rough level i set thinking the bltouch would refine from there. also didn't know the nozzle was supposed to be touching the bed. good video!
Glad the video helped Ray. Thanks for the comment 👍
Quality of your videos are incredible!
Thanks 🙂
TIL that I've never been using my printer's generated bed mesh because I didn't have it set to do so in Cura (*smacks forehead*). Thank you for this video lol
You're gonna have my 1st benchy lookin like I've been printing for years.
Hopefully 🤞👍
@@RickyImpey It wasn't perfect, but for a 1st attempt it came out good.
Thank you for this video been printing for 2 years and I still learned so much watching this that I didn’t know could you maybe do a video on printing silks with a Boden tube I’d love to see your opinion and your help( I have the fabled extruder click issue
quality content right here! Thanks a lot ) I am a little bit tired of G29 every time and I have an answer now! :)
Great, glad to help.
Nice tutorial. And the last part about the start M420 gcode command is the one almost every other reviewer leaves out. Unfortunately, the manufacturers leave this out too in some cases, the Artillery X2 for example. And even worse, the CURA software they include DOES NOT HAVE THE epron read line, it starts with G28 which wipes out the leveling data! And they don't include instructions in the installation manual either.
Spectacularly stupid considering it is a great printer. Further, if you open the gcode test print file on the USB stick with notepad, you will see they used Slic3r instead of CURA to make the test model... which is even funnier. But at least that code has the M420 command. By the way you didn't mention the "Fade" code you used (Z10). For those that don't know, the Fade command REMOVES the leveling mesh over the hight in mm you pick. You picked 10mm which is (IMHO) way to high. No need to go that high, again, IMHO. 3 to 4 is plenty in most cases and makes the part more dimensionally accurate.
Yes, great information thanks. I agree, 10mm is probably excessive and lower numbers would be fine.
best guide ever!
Superbly clear! Thanks for your efforts. X2 on the way, so this will save me lots of time...
This is a VERY good video! So detailed it's PERFECT! great stuff Sir
Really glad it helped.
Ah I was doing everything right bar one thing…. I was adjusting the z offset down to the thickness of a piece of paper. Now I know it needs to be with the nozzle touching the bed! No wonder I’ve had adhesion issues! Thank you so much!
It's a very common misconception. Glad you have it sorted👍
@@RickyImpey I have a Sovol sv06 the manual clearly says to use paper to set the z offset, I assumed it would take the paper thickness into account and save the correct dimensions?
@@edreeder9743 Unfortunately it's very unlikely that it does. Paper can obviously be different thicknesses but the manufacturers want to make setup seem as easy as possible. In the real world, the home position shouldhave the nozzle just kissing the bed. Any gap will increase the first layer thickness.
@@RickyImpey Thank you. Your videos are excellent, very clear, keep up the good work!
I was wondering why my printer was printing too high. I was setting the offset with a piece of paper then when the printer started to print it started a piece of paper width too high..
Now I understand coming from the old CR-10 with the limit switch.... Thanks a Million for this video.. Maybe you could do the video with the Cr-10 printer as I just bought the pro v2 version..
Thanks for the step guide… your are saved me a lot of frustration… 🤩👍🏼 I also checked the excentric nuts on X and Y axis before step 1…
Great video very clean and clear instructions and helped me setup as a beginner thank you!
bro i LOVE you! Thank you from the bottom of my heart. I'm very new to 3d printing and this video is a lifesaver!
Awesome! Really glad it helped.
thank you for this in detail explanation
With Marlin firmware it appears you should use a 0.1mm feeler gauge when setting the Z Offset. The firmware subtracts this thickness when saving the offset.
been having issues. this is a game changer
Rick, amazing video and instructions! Thank u very much!!! Just one doubt, in my case I'm using the Sonic Pad, at this case I need add the line "M420 S1 z10"? Thank you once more
Great video! Very clear, and helped me a ton to setup my sidewinder x2
Thanks for the leveling advice on the Artillery, now I just need to find why mine has hundreds or random horrible horizontal lines through every print.
hello, great video on a useful topic, thanks for sharing your skills :) 👍