The End of the Ender 7
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 มี.ค. 2022
- It's the end of the road for the Ender 7.
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Thanks for the constant attention onto the Ender-7 paid by mr.Nerd, so to your efforts in using and thinking of this particular product during the past few months. Both your voices and suggestions are of immense value to Creality as we always welcome more users can give us straight advices on our products.
Creality hereby stands humbly and devoutly to embrace all concerns from our users, and try our best to perfect all imperfections.
Good job Creality for responding. Maybe you guys could make a v2 that addresses these issues and either discontinue the current ender 7 or lower the price.
That's some weirdly poetic phrasing, but kudos! ;)
@@FAB1150 Chinglish is a fun language, but we get the intention, I'm and honestly surprised they responded.
just the fact that a company sends a second printer to someone who literally cut off a piece of the first one, already shows the seriousness and concern of the company in listening to its customers, and even responding to a video with many criticisms, however constructive already earns credits to the In my opinion, that's why I really like creality, and I hope they keep it that way!
@@jeanicezinho kind of hard to call someone with his followers and prominence in the 3DP world a “customer.”
It’s now officially called the Ended 7 ;)
@@user-yk1cw8im4h daddy, chill.
ITS CHEP!
lolol
@@user-yk1cw8im4h, let's compare your channel with Chep's channel to see who has more authority to say something about 3d printers... 🤣
I've labelled configurations, profiles, etc. for my printer "Ended3" since it was built (almost) stock out of the box.
Disappointing and exactly as expected. When you ignore real feedback and rely on marketing and flooding the market this is the result, an expensive waste of time for everyone involved. I hope everyone understands how much time and effort you sank into this!!! 😫
That's why i can't recommend creality to anyone anymore. In 2018 they were a great deal. Nowadays anycubic Vyper, Artillery Genius, TwoTrees Sapphire, Creativity Elf, Tronxy x5sa and so many other printers smash theirs into the ground.
Like I always tell everyone, just skip chinese 💩
@@krnxemb nope. anycubic, Tronxy, Sovol and Artillery are perfect examples of good chinese printers. What you're saying is just ignorant. Just because one chinese sucks ass and pays reviewers, doesn't mean all are like that
@@munzlp you think you are being such fair and just consumer, right? just look how much WE, the none-ccp people continue to contributing to the ccp controlled chinese product development. Of course, it has gotten much better, and it should be good enough by now. they take our investment make cheap, inconsistent, land-filling trash. And now, YOU are totally dependent on them. we came too far, but better now then later dude. See how they r creeping up the cost?
@@krnxemb yup, chinese printers are getting more and more expensive. That's mainly because the EU's extra tax + the actual QC being paid at these companies
I have to say, it is refreshing to hear a channel speak honest opinions, especially with machines that were sent to them. Many reviewers would just not put a video if they notice issues. This was a nice change of pace.
Agree.
Well the failure was in a live stream.. you can not do much get this out of the world.
I do agree though, a lot of reviewers would simply delete the stream and keep silent about it.
Prove it. I certainly don't watch a single channel without honesty and I wouldn't think there are that many more established ones out there. I have to say this again and again, if you ever grow up you'll realise that someone having a different opinion on a product or having a different experience with it than yourself or others doesn't mean they're being dishonest or biased, it's called reality where we aren't all clones of eachother and each product which comes out of a factory is slightly different as a result of a million factors.
They don't do it because they make money from referral links, and bad machines don't sell. So they don't get money from true those referral links. Hope that Joel can keep this going, because we need more people like him!
of course the problem is, until a Chanel reaches the dizzy heights of 3dPN where a manufacturer HAS to have a review on it or be properly critical for fear of not getting free review printers, accessories, filament ets ect and other manufacturers throwing freebies their way...
Having been given a glimpse of the whole process, and having experienced the "reviewer private conversations" including all the faults they have found and the replacement parts and even complete printer replacements being sent to them before review release, and then the reviews which appear that mention NONE of this behind the scenes chatter and shenanigans I would advise buyers wait till REAL USERS start posting real user reviews to find out the truth. I always knew it would be happening and Makers Muse blew the lid on it some time ago, but until you witness it first hand there is always doubt, but no doubt for me now. The printer I reviewed was damn near perfect, and I said so, had I not thought so I would have said because I really dont have the time, the inclination , nor the desire for any more printers to review free or otherwise so I had nothing to loose.
And reviews on a manufacturers site, not worth a shit unless it is a third party review system such as trust pilot etc, even those CAN be manipulated in the startup phase at least. All manufacturer website reviews are vetted by the manufacturer and if the review does not meet their needs it will not appear on the site end of story..
Buyer beware, its a corrupt system..
That was a great story, Joel. I think you're right: Reviews and comparison videos can be a challenge to make engaging, but I'm really glad we got the condensed version and your full experience over so many months. High five!
I heard all Enders need the tinkerer to buy a premium 3rd party bedsurface .
I also heard you need to print custom fanducts for the Prusa MK3 so the cooling works properly.
Are these just myths?
@@TremereTT I’ve owned many Enders and never owned a premium 3rd party bed surface. I’ve only had to replace one, and replaced it with a $20 and they’ve been just fine. Wish I could speak to the Mk3, but can’t say it’s been my experience with the Ender line.
@@TremereTT You surely don't need any additional purchases or prints for mk3s to work properly. I have been printing with it for around a year and apart from self inflicted problems and one bad filament I never had any problems caused by the machine.
I have had mine for about a month now, it took me a couple of days to fine tune the settings but I was able to get consistent bed adhesion and haven’t touched the bed since. The initial set up though was challenging and I haven’t reached the advertised speeds with good strength and quality but I have found that it does print faster when doing larger prints.
I find creality seems to have departments that run in different directions, some towards a goal and others into the gutter. The ender 3 really took them into orbit, but they seem to be releasing printers that are very poor quality with basic build issues. My cr-5 Pro h is an example of a premium printer made poorly. And that, really has tainted my opinion on creality as a whole.
100% agree.
Same happened with my Ender 3 absolutely nothing worked out of box and their rather crappy customer support was just garbage great first experience with 3D printing huh? If I wanted my 200 back I had to send the thing to China just so it could be what? Scrapped I'd be out almost 300 if I did that.
I totally agree. I started 3D printing in December for the first time, bought a CR6 Max for $900 and I thought I was buying a premium printer. That was far from "reality" heh. Thankfully, I bought it from Microcenter with the protection plan and was able to return it for store credit. I have a Prusa Mk3 now and couldn't be happier, took me 10 hours to build it myself
I'm not sure if Creality works the same as DJI, another Shenzhen based Chinese company, but when I worked there I saw that each product had different leadership, goals, and connections to the CEO. Some products simply had a much more powerful team and therefore got more budget etc. I wonder if it's similar at Creality.
I used an ender 3v2 for 2 months from amazon, kept having problem every 2-3 days. Returned it and bought a prusa mk3s+. It's been printing flawlessly for more than a year with out a problem, I trust this machine so much it's insane. I don't even trust my ratrig v-core 3 as much as I trust my prusa yet hahaha
I upgraded my Ender 3 to one of Creality's textured glass plates and it was one of the moodiest surfaces I've ever printed on. Some days things would just refuse to stick, some days prints would stick and refuse to budge. I found running it in the dishwasher helped but it was also super sensitive to drafts in the space and ambient temperature. Creality should have shipped the Ender 7 with a decent PEI sheet and some sort of auto leveling system especially for $700.
I flipped the textured side down and use it as a basic glass plate. Much better.
The glass beds from creality benefit largely to being g scrubbed with dish soap and a sponge under hot water. They have a coating of some sort on them that seems to be finicky but once well washed they work great. That's been my experience at least.
The pattern-coated glass plates need to be completely free of any kind of oil from your hands. One touch from a finger and you have a spot that won't adhere. A little IPA works wonders. I totally agree about temperature and drafts.
Try a sheet of G10 (as per Maker's Muse) or Polycarbonate (relatively cheap). For the latter, scuff it up with sandpaper.
I used Elmer’s purple stick glue and get good bed adhesion. Drys clear and sticks well. I have a glass bed. Glass bed at 60c for PLA.
I really appreciate your transparency, fairness, and honesty in these sorts of videos. It's crazy to think that you have put so much time into this machine and had to scrap the other video, as well as end up with 2 machines you can't really even use after all that effort. Do you have any events you are coming out to Southern California for coming up? I miss going to to 3D printing events. It's been so long.
High-5!
As we say here in South Africa, EISH!
What a sad end to what was supposed to be an Ender flagship printer.
We know we can trust your judgement.
Thank you for great content.
I guess we have the same word in Norwegian: Æsj!
"High efficiency control algorithm"
Marlin. It's called marlin.
Glad to see videos like this. Showing both the good and bad sides is important! Thanks for doing this Joel, I am sure it was not easy, but it was needed.
Thanks man!
i have a ender 7 because of a sale, changing the hotend to a brand new one fixed evrything.
now it is as consistent as a prusa and no glue needed.
it has been printing for 4 months withe no service and gone through 7 spools of pla
I'm still using a cr-10. They nailed that one.
I've found that those beds get much better adhesion upside down. the clean glass works rather well for PLA and some other materials.
yes you are correct as i have found that out also
so i have 2 glass beds and a magnetic one for my enders 3v2 so when using wood filament i use the magnetic bed, and for Pla plus
I take of the top part of the magnetic build plate and
put the glass bed on top of the magnetic bottom part that is stuck to the main build plate and never get a problem with adhesion
I'll admit I did have quite a few issues when I first got my Ender 7 but I had only been printing for a few months on my Ender 3 Pro so I was still in the learning phase. Once I completely loosened every screw on the bed and tightened them in a criss cross pattern I had zero issues. I even stopped using glue sticks and blue painters tape. Some of my prints could probably be slowed down a little bit but once I worked out my bugs it has been working great for me!! Two things I will agree with you are the price sucks and auto level should have came stock on it. I mean WTF!!! it comes with a grayed out selection for auto level so why not throw it in for the price!! After all is said and done, I love my Ender 7, 3 Pro and 5 Plus.
Crap, I was going to attach a video of a print I just started on my Ender 7 with no tape or glue stick but no option to add video in comments.
@@robb2465 post it to youtube and then provide link?
@@roll4stealth671 yo nice icon
@@mistaecco favorite pokemon lol
This wouldn't be the first time a major 3d printing channel "reviews/gives thoughts on" a printer only to have some in the community to say they have had great success with that printer. Makers muse had nothing but bad things to say about the ender 3 only to have the community price him wrong which caused him to do another video about it.
Ohhhh a Futurama clip, classy. Cant wait for the new series.
Joel, thanks for your effort. I've watched a ton of your videos, but this is the one that got me to subscribe. I appreciate you being willing to get in front of the camera and tell the truth about things. Too few do that anymore. Thanks again...and High five 🙋
The CR-30 is another "premium" priced printer from Creality with some goofy problems from the factory. Simple things, like the silicone sock not being trimmed enough and rubbing on the conveyor and the little belt that drives the conveyor being too tight (causing the stepper to overheat and miss steps). I wonder if the issue with the Ender 7 is some trivial error being made during assembly.
Exactly why I love my Prusa - consistency.
Exactly. It may not have the best print finish, not by a long shot, but it can produce the exact same prints with exactly the same finish every single time. It's also a printer you can just start and then ignore.
About the missing front section, I am able to push my vorons to upwards of 600mm/s print speed, and they are still only limited by the hotends ability to melt the material fast enough. I recently started experimenting with putting custom brushless servo motors on one of them, and the frame gap still doesn't show any major issues with over 500W of input power on the XY gantry.
My Ender 3 was bought with that same style glass bed, and I couldn't get any models to stick, every print failed. I bought the magnetic bed off Amazon and am now a happy printer, so far, no fails.
I am designing and building my own 3D printer the first time out of 2040 aluminum extrusions. Had some frame resonance issues. Watched your video and relocated the front horizontal beam below core xy frame and it helped with vibrations. Resonances are not completely gone but it's much better now (yeah, I kind of screwed up). Tests showed some degradation in print quality, but only on higher speeds and accelerations, where it was not good anyways. At 300 mm/s and 1000mm/s^2 I could not tell the difference (still building a print profile for it).
In my opinion, since 3D printer parts are experiencing mostly dynamic loads, it actually can be light duty built. As long as core xy frame stays square in the moments of print head and gantry accelerations/deceleration and keeps it's relative position to the table it should be fine.
Absolutely fantastic overview of this product! Totally agree that for the price I would like to see ABL included, and just a more polished experience. I just got an Ender 3 V2 a couple months ago, and so far my only real issue was one of the wires to the hotend had some kinda problem that resulted in a "TEMP TOO HIGH" warning, and then no heat at all... a very early failure, but I just replaced it with a slightly better wire because I love fixing stuff, and the Ender 3 was like $240CAD or something. Point is, if I paid $500+ for it I would have been way more unhappy and consider returning it. So your last point is a very good one!
I like how your really frank about this, and not just advertising the good. I've been looking for a 3d printer to start, and this has been really helpful.
What material you print? PLA? And bed temperature? On creality stock glass bed you need more than 60stC to get good adhesion on any material (on PETG i even broke the bed bcs it cant go out without glass).
I've found the creality glass beds are terrible. I switched to a sheet of G10 and all my bed adhesion issues vanished! If the bed didn't suck would your opinion be the same?
I dont understand the problems, i have been using my Ender-7 without any kind of trouble. Last project took around 55hrs to print, more or less non-stop printing.
Best regards
Ted
I got a BLTouch upgrade for my Sovol and it became a totally different machine. I cannot imagine paying $700 for a machine without one. Honestly I can't imagine designing a machine without some kind of bed sensor, It's just such a huge value add.
The CR-6SE - AFTER 1) swapping out the crummy plastic feeder for a metal one 2) tweaking temperatures for every pla, 3) replacing a dead power switch, and 4) always using blue tape... it gets good results.
It would be nice to get to a point where laser paper printers are today, load it up with media and press print.
Joel! If you ever plan on coming to SE WA - bring one of them - we'll make that print like a beast!
Most of what you can take from this is that some people talk utter rubbish. Probably adding an exclamation mark where they really needed to be putting a question mark? Some people also can't think straight because their mouths are making too much noise. I felt that when you made the cut - it actually improved the machine in many ways. It also aligns with what the Prusa XL looks like as well as others. One of the many reasons I love Engineering.
I have an ender 5 which was around half the price including upgrades. I've also found that with the upgrades and time spent on it, it delivers really decent prints, in most cases. It has issues, but for the price, I haven't found a replacement. It's really a shame to see a printer that has lower quality than mine from the factory for double the price
So if print's don't stick.... does a bed material change like a PEI or Flex spring steel fixes it ?
You can try turning the glass bed upsidedown and use 0.2mm nozzle instead of the 0.4mm nozzle
I have an Ender 3. good machine to learn on, but for what I do I think I'm going to trade it in for a AnyCubit mono 4k resin printer (mostly battletech figurines)
did you ever try adding a flexible plate (textured)? If so, did it help adhesion?
Creality is a 3D printing company that has excellent ideas, but they are often really garbage at implementing those ideas. They still have a bad habit of releasing products with problems and then just thinking that the user community will sort them out. I am still extremely disappointed that they repeatedly and blatantly violate the Marlin GPL license on their printers by not publishing their Marlin source code.
I think they are way better at scouting the community to find ideas to implement than to develop their own ones. Do they really have excellent ideas? what is their original design/idea/contribution?
On the other hand, implementation is sometimes a great success of theirs : they really managed to improve the quality of the entry level printers AND lower the ticket.
@@AudreyRobinel I have yet to hear of a Creality printer that does not require some sort of 'fix' right out of the box, whether that is replacing a bad part, replacing a poor quality part, replacing a poorly designed part, or altering firmware. This is what I mean by bad implementation. On the other hand, I believe in concept, most of their printers are good.
What about a PEI steel bed and a better extruder? Wonder if that would make it work better?
I bought this Ender7 2 months ago, and I regret it now. My problem is that no matter how I adjust it, the Z axis is not lifted at the bottom 1-4 layers, causing it to keep hitting the nozzle.
I have an idea for future episode. Maybe you should get one of the first 3d printer kits (like one-up or folger with acrylic frame) put it together, and compare it to the newest popular printers? Should be fun to see the progress of 3d printing.
The grinding wheel was the safer way to go anyways, I don’t trust the cutting wheels. They can break off and cut real deep into any portion of your body.
So I have a question does the slicer matter, say I use prusa slicer and slice the files for a mark 3 prusa but put the g code in my creality printer, will it print better? Or am I conspiracy theory'n this too much? 🤔
i got one of those glass build plates for my CR10s pro v1 and they suck at build plat adhesion i don't know why but parts just do not like to stick
try replacing the build plate with some G10
Glad I found this video as I was eyeing this printer since it’s on sale at micro center… well now I know why it’s on sale lol.
Guess I’ll go either Ender 6 pro or 5 plus (and eventually convert the 5 to core xy with linear rails). Would like the build volume of the 5 plus (I already have an ender 3) or the core xy of the 6???
I run 10 Sapphire pro core xys with duet wifi boards and bl touch.. yes a bit of tinkering needed to get right. But they are great reliable and 1 has a e3d volcano heater block , the other a CHT nozzle and they can print nicely at 100mm/s. 250mm/sec is very ambition on what looks like a pretty stock hotend
This printer looks like it would be quite a bit of fun to see if we could tune it to get around it sticking issue.
Hi Joel! Is it possibly to make a video regarding a general overview of bed leveling (i.e., how to do it, when to do it, if the method needed to be used varies from printer to printer, etc.,) Thanks!
I fell for the hyp and now have a very expensive table decoration. Extruder motor died just after the 3 month warranty ended. They cannot send just motor, they have to replace the entire top. I am done buying experimental equipment that has no replacement parts or upgrades. I did fix bed leveling issue with better springs and I did not have a twisted bed.
These are on sale now for $249, first thing I did was add abl and toss the Bowden set up.
I honestly think the extruder was causing issues. After I changed it, the print quality is consistent and much better.
Hi 3D Printing Nerd,
Quick question for you related to the tests. Did you run any tests that would print at lower speeds, like 100mm/sec or 50mm/sec, which of course is not what they advertised, but curious to know if the core issue manifested when running the extrusion process at higher temps and at greater speeds, the machine couldn't "keep up" while attempting to regulate the controlled heating and cooling off of extruded filament. Could this per second value be manually changed via the UI? I almost bought two of the Ender 7's today as they dropped in price significantly during a flash sale. But I'm going to go with the 5 pros instead.
Thank you for being so steadfast about the Ender 7 reviews.
Dang, I was really excited by the premise of an Ender that could print that fast, but with the current problems I can't justify buying one. Great video!
What brand/color name is the filament you used for the benchie? (dark purple) TIA
what if I just lower the speed of the print, would it come out nicely? Because I just need its ability to print high stuffs.
Textured Pei should really be the standard bed surface at this point
Had the Ender 7. had exactly the same experiance with it. Glad i sold it when it was still new on the market :)
I just found the Ender 7 on sale for 375 usd. Is it a good buy for a first 3d-printer og shoud i look at another make or model.
i find corburundum to be really temperamental, some days it works like magic, some days, the slightest jitter will make the plastic peel, some days it takes a hammer and chisel to take out prints
I LOVE the translation fails in some of those infographics, they are so strange most of the time. My favorite term I have seen used "Humanized printing"...... ookkkaayyyyyy. Look up the Elegoo Wash n Cure 2.0 info, "humanized settings" for the round buttons to set the time.... Good stuff :D Great video as always!
Seems possibly the mounting of the build plate on the back to be the main culprit?
You should do a whole video or even series called "What does it take to make the ender 7 print and print well?" It would be a great watch a series to see what upgrades you can throw at it to get it to print like the machine it was supposed to be. Maybe get some sponsors to give you parts to try - flex plate bed, new hot end, etc....
It's a fun idea but just more free marketing for creality imo, who failed to deliver a working product to start with.
@@MakersMuse possibly but in the end it would showcase the short comings of the machine and a final round up video could compare the cost of making the 7 print well vs other options - how much do you need to spend to reliably print 250mm/s. It could be entertaining and useful content and by starting the video with a reminder of the previous poor performance vs where you are going with it I don't think it will provide any undo positive publicity for this particular machine. It's not a dis on the brand they make other machines that work at a reasonable price this one just fell short of its overconfident advertising. But hey just an idea.
Did you try installing a good plate and lower the print speed to the same as you use on the kit printer you compare to?
Yes
Can we get some more details? All I got was that bed leveling was inconsistent, but based of the prints, there were likely other issues. Slicer settings, clogged nozzles, etc? Some of these can likely be fixed easily. Granted the product should come working from the vendor, but if its a few minor tweaks, to make it great, I would love to hear more.
strange, since a cnc machine with right settings, either brand, should work perfectly; it means the machine is not made well. I make my machines myself, the total cost is under 200, BUT everything, until the last spring and bolt and connection, needs to be perfect (tolerance 0.02 mm on everything) Then it is a question about the right slicer settings (the gcode as you mentioned). They do not differ between my printers, nor should the gcode differ between machines with the same dimensions or power (they differ with lighter or heavier machines)
I would guess that its because the bed is only supported on one end, in addition to it being the part that has to move along the Z axis. I just dont think that the bed can be stable enough in this type of configuration. (IE. There is probably too much play/looseness whenever pressure from the nozzle is applied on the bed, especially near the front of the printer where it is further away from the z-axis adjoining support bracket). TL;DR: I think the bed needs a second point of contact to guide/stabilize its motion along the Z-axis.
I purchased a z axis upgrade kit from Amserv3d, added a wham bam pei bed and put on a bltouch. This has made all the difference in the world.
I still stand by an opinion that at this point, given the cost of the items and economies of scale: all printers should have ABL, a filament runout sensor, and removable bed. If it doesn't, it shouldn't be sold. Given you can get all 3 of those on printers sub-$400. For $700, I don't know why it would be considered. "But Core XY!" IIRC, people were pointing out this is more H-bot or something as opposed to Core-XY. If it was Core-XY, the front would have belts passing through it and Mr Angle Grinder wouldn't be able to introduce themselves. It's wacky: many want a fast, large, and high-temp supporting printer. But fast requires super rigid frames, large makes it harder to be super-rigid, and high temp is a topic for another time. Look at RatRigs and Vorons. They manage to do the high speed and large, but they're either more expensive or they're near identical to this price (and can actually be reliable). This printer lacks what I believe are requirements of a modern printer, can't keep up with others in the same class/price, and it's one major selling point (speed) is just not capable with it's design. Get the angle grinder.... there's a chop shop stream for you.
I'm running my Ender 5 Plus without the top front beam. And it prints without any issues.
The Ender7 is actually a great printer. The motion system is sturdy and capable. Just the extruder and hotend is garbage. Replaced that with a direct extruder/hotend combo and am happily printing at 500mm/s since then.
Could you try to put a mesh Auto leveler and change the build plate material please? Do you think it would be good then?
I am using Ender 7 with Klipper firmware. With some minor software tuning and slicer config, I am consistently getting very good quality prints at 250mm/s. You need to tune the config, where it needs to slow down and where to run at full throttle. But, this machine is doing very fast than my previous Ender 3 V2.
The hardware can easily handle this speed. So no need to worry about upgrading hardware parts. My slow speed printing is now 100mm/s and I haven't gone less than that for most of the time.
I use 50mm/s speed only when I am printing with 0.2mm nozzle and when printing very minute details.
If you know anything about 3d printing, you'll sure like this printer very much.
or i could spend the same money on a prusa and get amazing quality after a fresh kit build... but go on...
@@angelusmortis3256
I bought the Ender 7. So, I have to go through this to get the best out of it. But, it gave me enough of a chance to learn many new things. But if you want the best out of the box, sure you have options.
replace the print bed. i had to on the ender 3 v2.... the one they ship with the printers is crap no idea why. I had the same issues.
try a spring steel PEI sheet. glass beds are not super great
My Ender 5 had the same issues and I upgraded to a Prusa, never looked back.
my creality CR10s Pro V2 was a nightmare even after 200$ in upgrades... i then upgraded to a prusa aswell... i have never seen such quality prints even on the creality's best day...
It's also over for my three old BFB 3D Touch printers -- finally sold the whole lot for $1 on eBay.
I am new to 3d printing. What 3d printers would you recommend?
It's always gives me a good feeling knowing I spent $85 on my brand new RepRap Guru i3 clone on eBay that was from the RepRap Guru company who went out of business. I replaced a few inexpensive parts but now it's working really well except some Z wobble I need to resolve. So cheers to you for sticking to it but in the end it doesn't even matter (yes a not shameful Linkin Park quote). I've thought about pulling the trigger on a brand name printer but it seems many have the same issues. Love this community. My son says I need to start a TH-cam channel and team-up with you but so far I have to even make my 2nd video actually about 3D printing ABL DIY probes. Coming soon I hope! Cheers and 3D print the world.
I have to wonder if this is a problem with their recent beds? I've been having some really bad problems with an Ender 3 pro I recently purchased with getting bed leveling right, I've found using an ABL system slightly helps but it's still an inconsistent pain when it comes to levelling (though there's also a good chance that I'm just... Not good at getting the bed trammed/leveled properly), often the only way for me to get consistent prints on it is to use a raft. Not super likely to be related but this has certainly gotten me curious
The gantry can sag as its only supported on one side... 😕
I'll be honest I was not happy with the Ender 7 when I first got it as a gift. Especially after watching your videos. I had bad prints consistently. Then I removed the glass plate and the 4 clips. I stuck a magnetic sheet down and used a sheet of pei. Now I print with a bed temp of 65 and speed of 200. Everything comes.out perfectly. Consistent prints at high speeds.
Same here.
Did same upgrade with my Ender 6 but I also bought cylindrical rubber to use instead of springs underneath the bed. Now I can rely on it more.
@@hammerfallen12345 interesting idea can you post a link here for what you used?
@@Exploringthepositive Tried to send link but it seems as it got removed by youtube
Did you have thatn ender 7? Maybe try adding bltoutch and klipper for test?
I have had a similar non sticking problem with my flsun q5 but I ended up hacking an ender 3 bed onto it and it was fixed. I hate glass beds, I can never get them to stick consistantly.
Great information. I was thinking about getting a Ender 7 but went with the Flsun SR. Glad I made the choice. Really happy with my SR.
That SR is so cool!
I've been having bed leveling issues with my Ender 7. I regularly have to re-level it. You're 100% right that this machine should have come with BL Touch or something similar. My Ender 5 Plus has been running nonstop with no appreciable failures with the new Creality hot end upgrade, direct drive, and BL Touch. Need to upgrade the 7 and Sermoon I bought over the holiday sales to have ABL I guess.
That is a very honest opinion. May not be popular, but it feels honest and you have the prints to back it up.
Of course you are going to be inundated with people saying you're wrong. You're not. You are expressing your opinion based on your experience with 2 systems over many hours (thousands of hours) of operation.
Thank you for the video.
I'm never buying another Ender printer. They're cheap, my Ender 3 V2 is an endless tinkerers dream, but for someone who was quickly burned out from inconsistent prints and having to upgrade it to add bed leveling, better extruder, etc... I give up. I am with Joel and agree it's time we raise our expectations on what a printer will do in 2022. If you want a hobby, build a Voron. If you want a 3d printer to print things, get something better. I can't wait to see how the Prusa XL's "perfect first layer" system will work out, and hope it sets the minimally acceptable bar on 3D printing for 2023 and beyond.
What printer would you recommend for a beginner?
for short and small prints the frontal removed support might not that important, have you tested for tall objects to the maximum height,
People seem to buy these to print faster but I decided to buy another printer so I had 2.
These run slower (but you are making 2 at a time) so give better prints but cost the same as a the ender 7 combined. These can also be different so one is direct drive vs bowden so if you need flexible printed you can use that instead. 2 printers vs 1 seems to give better prints and more flexibility. Suppose you could always say if one breaks you can still finish the job where if you have one , your done.
But why? What is it that makes these not work? Can you take a machine and throw parts at it until it works?
I want a 3D printer to print parts, not to tinker with the printer. I also want to print with engineering quality plastic. (I want to print with the less expensive filament for testing before using the more expensive filament.) What printer would you recommend? What do you think of the R QIDI TECHNOLOGY X-CF Pro? Will you be reviewing it any time soon?
For me, the printer worked like a charm out of the box. I had no problems with adhesion at all.
That's great! I'm very happy to hear it works for you!
That stupid textured bed sucks, I had huge issues with it even with adhesive additive. I got frustrated and dropped my Z axis only to come back to huge gouges in the textured side. I flipped the bed to the smooth glass side and it’s been sooooo much better!
Question is. Was they running the same mm/s. Or was the ender seven ran at 250 and prusa ran at 50
I appreciate your honesty about a product asking for a premium price and not providing a premium performance.
Hi, I was going to buy one of these - i already have teh FLSun Super Racers which also claim 250 speed - they can but realistically they only get around 150.
Hi what pink filament were you using ? They look good @3Dprintindnerd
Not sure what went wrong with Creality. My first ever machine was an Ender 3 Pro, so we know they can make a machine and still works great 3 years in. My second was a CR10S Pro that was a complete pile of crap. Ended up selling it for parts after 18 months of frustration. 3rd machine Anycubic Predator, nice machine with some issues. 4th machine was a CR6 Smart, OK machine after a lot of tweaking and community firmware upgrade. 5th Machine was CR10-Smart. Not so smart, but after disabling most features I do get decent prints . Also had to dump the machine WIFI and redo the USB to enable octoprint. I can pretty much guarantee my next machine will not be a Creality .
I really don't know if you guys tried, but that worked for me, i have a ender 3 max that i cant make the parts stick, so... i flipped the bed, i use the bare glass side
I purchased five Ender 5 plus, a D1 and two CR10 Max. Two completely dead out of the box. One with a bad filament sensor. The D1 came with a limit switch micro broken in half which caused it to score its own bed on the first Home. One had bad firmware. Three of the SD cards supplied failed within a week. Couldn't get bed adhesion on anything without glue. One LCD failed within a week. Two of the BLTouch sensors had bent pins from new. The BLTouch Picoblade conector wiring failed on three of the Ender 5 Plus within a week, due to really poor wiring terminations. All the Ender 5 Plus have chronically bent build plates that continue to bend as you heat them up.... joy. I have no idea how Creality sell products with such incredibly bad quality control. When you try and get support or parts they ask ridiculous questions like "have you watched our tutorials?". They wouldn't even cover the bent BLTouch pins under warranty, even though they arrived bent.
Creality will send your hair grey by age 23. Live long and happy by buying Flashforge or Prusa.
I bought an ender 3. Got about a dozen nice prints with it...But in the end I spent double the printer's price on spare parts and upgrades. I don't think I'm ever buying an ender machine again and despite I was skeptical about the price tag on the prusa machines I have not heard of issues of this caliber about prusa printers...Guess I know what brand I'm buying next. For a reference, I've been spending at least 5 hours a week 3D printing for the last year and a half and 80% spent on the ender was frustrating (I got a Tronxy as well and don't even get me started)). I got these printers to print but it's more tweaking calibrating and re-calibrating than printing.