How I improved the quality of 3D printing Ender 3 PRO - part 1

In this section you will see:
Reinforcing cross brace for the printer frame
Double Z-axis with two motors - method of design
Magnetic anti- wobble nuts on the trapezoid guide screw
These modifications lead to improved print quality on the old Ender 3 PRO printer. Mainly it is an increase in accuracy and repeatability of print quality, less need for frequent service interventions but also elimination of the problem of striping on the surface of the prints due to wobbling of the trapezoid screw on the Z-axis.
At the end of the video series on the modification of this simple printer, there will also be a demonstration of surface stability at both 0.32 mm and 0.16 mm layer heights.
Watch this channel and subscribe.
All the models used to modify the printer in this part of the video can be purchased at this link: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/...

[@hapsti]

wow this is amazing work! extremely well done its very professional

[@Tech-3D]

Thank you

[@saddle1940]

I think the ball bearings will probably wear holes in the top of the magnets as they are just nickel plated. The magnets would be better off with small thin metal disks over then to protect their surfaces.

[@Tech-3D]

This is of course likely but due to the force pushing on them being spread over multiple magnets and the amount of side to side movement it will happen so many years later that the printer will die of a different problem.

[@alexlerouge1170]

Just upgraded my ender 3 v2's z axis with creality's kit for it. I had to muck around a bit with it since the second screw kept binding but it seems to be working fine now. This seems like a step up from that but idk if I have the technical know how to do these upgrades without messing it up again. It's a basic cost/benefit analysis. It's the same with upgrading to klipper and octoprint it seems to be working fine now so idk how worth it it would be to spend a couple dozen hours and the money on the raspberrypi when I don't have any programing/soldering experience to back it up.

[@cygiuszvr]

Bardzo interesujący film. Mam właśnie problem w Swoim ENDER 3 (bez PRO) effect Wobble. Które elementy tak naprawdę najmocniej pomogą ? Te sprzęgło samocentrujące osi Z, czy może podkładki magnetyczne, albo wszystko :D Nie wiem co pierw drukować :)

[@Tech-3D]

Ciężko doradzić tak zdalnie, bo możliwe jest też, że to nie jest problem mechanicznego wobblinga. Efekt wobble jest również spowodowany wahaniami temperatury podkładki lub temperatury gorącego końca. Sprawdź to najpierw i zrób PID BED TUNNING i ewentualnie także PID HOT END TUNNING = autotuning v Marline. Zobacz jakie są wahania i po kalibracji czy w ogóle się poprawiły. Dopiero wtedy warto zrobić regulację osi Z.

[@cygiuszvr]

@@Tech-3D dziękuje, sprawdzę to :)

[@elsteb3633]

Шарик в муфте, как и безлюфтовая гайка не нужны. Пружина не обеспечивает безлюфтовость, только износ. Лучше поставить упорные подшипники на вал движков, под муфту. Шарики на магнитном подвесе уже сожрали покрытие магнитов? Именно по этому вклеивать магниты, ну такое.

[@ashleywhitehead3710]

Nice. I also had the idea to add ball bearings and magnets for a z wobble damper but found some straight z screws so never bothered. I might try this at some point.
Those z stepper mounts will inhibit cooling though. Perhaps some thermal paste on the base to help transfer some heat into the frame.
I have the z brace and bearing setup on my Aquila. Excellent upgrade.
How much z height did you loose with those z nut brackets? I lost about 30mm with the stock plate.
Just a note, you can't use the z brace file in the package you sell on cults. The base file these were remixed from has a non-commercial license attached to it.

[@Tech-3D]

For Z stepper motors, the appropriate current needs to be set. It is not necessary for them to run at full current output when they are driven by a trapezoidal rod. Then they do not get very hot.
I have limited the height in the firmware to 200 mm. I haven't needed to push parts higher than 180-190 mm yet.

[@AtleMo]

Would you say this is equal to, or better than adding a flexible coupling?

[@Tech-3D]

Definitely better.

[@josephbowditch8015]

Is this compatible with an ender 3 v2?

[@Tech-3D]

I have no experience with the second version of Ender 3. I can't answer that.

[@kilogee700]

Definitely compatible