Fix your Z axis with Oldham couplings, dual z screws & thrust bearings!
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ธ.ค. 2022
- Say no to elephants foot, inconsistent first layers & Z banding. This is the ultimate z axis rebuild / upgrade using brace rods, Oldham couplings, dual z screws & thrust bearings.
You can see quantifiable results before and after the upgrade. I will show you the what, how & why of every upgrade. After this you can forget your z axis troubles once and for all.
This video is a part of my Ender 3 upgrade / rebuild series. Do check out the previous videos for all the upgrades and mods.
Parts used in this video:
Z axis brace rods kit: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Thrust bearings: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Oldham couplings: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
BLV kit for Ender 3 PRO: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Dual Z Kit: www.aliexpress.com/item/40012...
Belt tensioners: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Printable bearing block: www.thingiverse.com/thing:574...
capturing the lead screw in that lower block you made is actually working against you. Throw those away, make a set screw collar that will go below your upper bearing block. Basically sandwiching the upper bearing assembly. By doing this you now have only two points of the leadscrew captured, now the oldham coupling can easily adjust givining you zero bind between the two points the leadscrew is captured. With your lower block you have the leadscrew captured in three points with only one of those points able to adjust, no bueno amigo.
Damn why didn't I think of that :P That is actually a very good solution. Thanks for taking the time to point it out.
Yes, and if you want to avoid the play coming from the sandwich you can add a spring there on the lower side.
Came here to say this.
Woah, someone using double spaces between sentences.
I don't get your point. An oldham coupler can adjust with the two ends of the leadscrew captured too. It allows the nut to move in two directions and this can compensate any misalignment between the top and the bottom ends of the leadscrew.
I can't believe you don't have more subscribers! Your videos are awesome and extremely helpful! Thanks for the vids
I watch loads of 3D printing channels and have never been reccomended this one until today, why this most excellent channel has never been reccomended to me is beyond me, I will pass on this channel to the FB groups I belong to.
I can't understand why you only have 1.76k subscribers. People are crazy! Your video is way beyond awesomeness!
Thanks man
Extremely well made video! I really like how you've iterated through the root causes and demonstrated the issues with the dial gauge.
Thanks. Appreciate that.
Incredibly well made video! You did an excellent job of describing these issues.
Thanks for your interest & support :)
I didn't know about Oldham couplings and, definitely, the axial load is something to be further investigated! There might be better implementations for those problems, BUT... CONGRATS on the investigation and demonstrations! This type of video pushes the hobby further!
Thanks!
Oh, man! This is an absolutely great upgrade ever! I can’t wait to see the next video! Keep it up mate!
Thanks
really excited for part 2 when you show the print results!
My soloution was to run an SKR 1.4 Turbo which has the ability to run my two leadscrews on their own motor and driver thus enabling G34 to be run to level the gantry before each print, I wouldn't mind adding the other fix's you made though, the use of thrust bearings is a very good idea!
+1 very happy new Subscriber, Merry Christmas my friend and a happy 2023!
Thanks for the Sub. That idea crossed my mind as well. Alas, I wasn't looking to upgrade the mainboard and firmware at this point. Had I known I would end up burning my board, I might have gone your way.
Thank you very much for the help, I have been printing with the Ender 3 for 6 years and over this time I have always received poorer printing results even though the settings have remained the same. I have now carried out a complete maintenance of the PC rollers. The Zwobble with the flex decoupler and the Anti Backlash Spring Loaded Nut has eliminated all my problems. I wanted to replace the printer with a new one. I flashed it with Klipper. Now it is one of the quietest prints there is and I can print between 80-100mms print with good results
Wow I love your attention to detail and a pure engineering perspective. You really did consider everything, including putting a load on the oldham coupler. I hope you added a little lube to it.
I believe you are a fellow engineer too for noticing these details :) You are right, I did lubricate the coupling because with the preload it has a tendency to bind slightly. Thanks!
I just did Kevinakasam's Dual z belt mod and I have absolutely no z banding now and it wasn't too hard to do!
I recently did a dual Z install and hated it so much I tore it out, few days ago I started printing the parts for the belt mod and I can't wait. It's such a better system, no chance of banding and far more usable.
Lol love the editing 👍Nice video thanks. Fun journey making upgrades!
Good video. I've burned stepper motors as well. Thanks for sharing the good and the bad.
I love your videos! ❤❤❤❤ I've learned so much about 3dprinters from you and you teach/explain concepts very well! Thank you for your work! 😊😊
Thanks :)
Separate comment - What "I" did to fix my issue, was to just move the wave washer, from the back of the motor, to the front.
No more Z banding, even printing at 200mm/s in vase mode. Higher shows issue, but that is because I'm still using rollers instead of rails still. This is with printing LW-PLA (light weight, micro foaming PLA for RC planes and drones). It's like printing in hard mode, because of temps and humidity dictates how much it expands.
That's interesting. I will give it a shot. Thanks.
I have three Ender 2 Pro Gantry Style Printers. I had some Z Banding issues. I replaced the PLASTIC motor mount, and replaced them with a CNC Aluminum Motor Mount. The lead screw is dead on for all 3 machines. Checked them in a lathe checking for runout along the lead screw, .00003 along the entire length, I would say they are straight. There is no Y axis deflection because it lays flat on the 40mm side and is mounted front, middle and in the back of the machine and is only 275mm long. I also added a Anti Backlash lead screw nut to each one. Once I installed these, and carefully aligned the z axis lead screw, and I can raise and lower with just 2 fingers with the motor unplugged. Smooth as grease. However, there is a tiny bit, a very tiny bit of vertical deflection in the vertical Z Axis 2040 beam. Not a lot. About .5 mm front to back motion. Any idea on how to mount some kind of z axis rigidity stiffening system for a single z beam gantry printer? Also, with what I have done, would you still recommend Oldham Couplings? Thanks in advance. Yup, I subscribed. Reason, I find that the smaller You Tube channels on 3D Printing are more about the technology and how to fix it, and not about likes, and money from advertisers and so on. This was a very helpful video.
(A Little Secret to have the very best & straight lead screws: have a gun smith make them on a lathe from chromoly steel for you. $45.00 each, but worth the price. 🤓.)
Thanks for your support and taking the time to write this detailed comment. You have checked your lead screws thoroughly and they are dead on so the oldham coupling would not really help in my opinion. They introduce additional backlash into the system and for you it's probably not worth it. As for rigidity, triangulation is key. You can try out corner connectors or plates but from what I can see, the Ender 2 Pro does not have slots in the extrusions to fix these. You might have to drill and tap some holes. You could also remove the handle and use the holes there to fix a threaded rod down to the base. Let me know which way you want to go, I might take a look at the CAD models to figure something out. :)
@@bluemonxterDIY Thanks for letting me know that the Oldham Couplings would not be necessary. Saved me $48.00. I thought it best to ask you before ordering, Glad I did. I think going a threaded rod mount on the top where the handle is, however, my NEW lead screws are 30mm taller and I can now print to 210mm on the z, compared to the 180 of the OEM lead screws. I also redesigned the top handle so it is 20mm wide, and 90mm long. It flush mounts to the top of the Z Beam and the long end points to the spool holder side of the machine. The back of the machine is the power supply case. I can remove the circuit board to make modification if need be. The case is 1.5 or 2mm aluminum. A support for the front of the machine is a no go because the entire front of the machine is an ABS Injection Molded case and the motherboard is right under the left side next to where the LCD mount is. I have three 400mm cheap lead screws just collecting dust, was thinking of using them for the support rods. If I could use those for the tension rods, it would save me some money by not having to buy threaded rods. Just kicking around ideas. Your thoughts? By the way, you can reach me at my github page here, just use the discussions tab.
github.com/GTPGllc/Ender-2-Pro-v427 Thanks for taking the time to look at this. There is no way the bigshot channels would help a little guy. 😁
@@the-300lb-gorilla Glad to help. Honestly, the lead screws are meant for motion and the threads on them would not be suitable for tightening. A normal galvanized thread rod costs a couple of bucks and you can get it in 1 meter lengths. That would be the way to go. I saw your github, looks good. If you could share a pic or two of your printer, that would make it much easier. You will probably need to design some brackets like the ones "proper printing" uses on his ender 3. Thanks :)
A possible alternative to a top mount that doesn't require this much reworking is to print a cubic shaped part that is fixed to the top plate of a bottom mounted stepper motor, with a slot on top of the part for an axial bearing. Fix a flexible coupling to the stepper motor shaft and center it. Put the printed part on top of the stepper motor and screw it down, so that the flexible coupling ends up inside the printed part (ofc it should be printed out of something that won't be melted by the stepper motor). Put an axial bearing into the slot on top of the printed part. Put an unlocked set screw collar and a shim onto the lead screw. Put the lead screw through the axial bearing and into the flexible coupling. Center it inside the flexible coupling (that could be a bit tricky). Lock the set screw collar on the lead screw on such a height where the lead screw can rest on the axial bearing while not compressing the flexible coupling. Voila, now the weight of the gantry is kept off both the flexible coupling and the stepper motor shaft, while there is some angular flex between the shaft and the lead screw.
Nice video. I'm looking forward to seeing if your mods improved the Z axis.
Thanks! The results are interesting. Will upload the next video on the coming Friday :)
@@bluemonxterDIY Awesome! Bonus points for using an indicator. My CR6 has similar issues
Praise be with the algorithm!
Really interesting, even though i don't use my Ender3 anymore
Nice job! BTW, a big merry Xmas to you and your family!
🎄
Great video , i am looking forward ot the next installment
Thanks. Hoping to upload it next Friday.
Nice solution. I wasn't aware of the spring washer in the motor, so thanks for highlighting that. One further improvement you could make is to use self-aligning bearings - any bend in the shaft will cause angular misalignment that will require a small amount of lash to prevent the thrust bearing binding. Maybe an SKF 108 TN9 would work?
The self aligning bearing sounds like a great idea. I will give it a shot.
By the way your video are awesome!. It help me a lot fixing my problems with my Ender3…
Thanks :)
I'm glad I stumbled across this video, I have an Ender 3 Max and its hard to find a dual-Z modification for them being a oddball mix of Ender 3/CR10/V2 parts. I don't want one with dual steppers, as I don't have a spare driver on my main board and running 2 steppers in paralell from one driver makes keeping them in sync a nightmare, particularly through power cycles. So I was looking at the types with the tooth belts, and they all seem to have the limitations that you highlight in the video. The video has made me think about it however, and it seems that by choosing parts myself I will be able to make something that will work reliably, I like the idea of mounting the Z stepper at the top somehow, it occurs to me that maybe making the pulley on the stepper a little smaller than the ones on the lead screws will reduce the load on the stepper and make missed steps less likely - this will require changing the Z steps but thats just a matter of calibration. I like the idea of the Oldham couplings, I'd seen someone else use them but forgot the name and where I saw them, so thanks! I think I'd make a block at the top to stop the lead screws pushing up or down, so the lead screws can be free at the other end to allow the Oldham coupling to do its job, but I guess that might mean some experimenting. This is certainly a thought provoking video, and I look forward to seeing how you fix the remaining issues and what results you get in the next video.
Thanks for your interest and taking the time to write this detailed comment 👍
Very well made
You are on top!
Great mod! You're gonna want more teeth engaged on that z stepper also. Maybe a pulley or two to force the belt to wrap and engage at least half the teeth. With only one or two teeth engaged the belt can flex or just skip altogether.
Correct. I am waiting for the longer belt to arrive. Then i will install an idler pulley like you mentioned.
There are a bunch of little CNC machines with the idlers, you can probably take some inspiration from them (MPCNC springs to mind).
Excellent convincing engineering/scientific approach to the problem. Kudos ! So many "upgrades" are iffy as to cause and effect and questionable improvement. My main question with upgrades is cost. The parts listed are over $100. I guess there is satisfaction in substantially improving poor design, and if one has the time as a hobby its great. But my dilema, aside from time, is I start looking at what better printer I might be able to afford by just paying more. This fixes Z-axis, but with so many other upgrades needed particularly on older Enders to fix inevitable problems, etc. it starts running into some real money- dual gear extruder, all metal hot ends, 32 bit motherboards, direct drive, glass printer bed, and on and on. Before long you're close to a no hassle Bambu P1S or ... But thanks for a great video, at the very least teaching to be very analytical and thorough about these problems.
Absolutely agree with you. If engineering is your hobby then go ahead and tinker with your printers otherwise your money is better spent on getting a better printer
I imitated the working principle of the thrust bearing by using normal bearings (I don't know how it will work for long-term use), I think it worked, the z movement is very consistent, I ordered the oldhan coupling and it is on its way (I tried this way because I did not want to order a thrust bearing from Aliexpress and did not want to wait)
Good videos please continue
Awesome z axis video !!! I did not skip anything 👍
Thanks a lot. More videos to come :)
Great video!
Thanks for your interest and support :)
Thanks for pointing out that stepper motors have play in the z-axis.. I have 12 pieces of 3D printers in my workshop and I'm still struggling with the problem of inconsistent layers in the z-axis on some of them. The way I see it is that I will insert the thrust bearing between the motor and the trapezoidal thread coupling.. and see what the result will be.. And I signed up for the subscription.. :-) I am writing from Slovakia.
Thanks for your interest and support :) That could work. Do share your results as it is an excellent learning opportunity.
@@bluemonxterDIYI found one axial bearing 51100 in the workshop, which I inserted between the motor and the trapezoidal thread coupling. I also made a plastic transition between the coupling and the axial bearing so that it is all in the axis. It works perfectly. I am excited. It works beautifully on the BIQU B1 printer, which has only one trapezoidal thread. I printed one cup and one 3DBenchy boat for testing. I used z-hop 0.3mm for printing. Due to the Christmas holidays, I can only buy more bearings for other printers on Tuesday. I am most looking forward to solving this problem with my Ender 5 plus. For me, it is a very cheap modification of the printer, because the cheapest bearing costs 0.80 €.
@@1vyrobca Excellent. Glad it worked out for you and happy printing on christmas :)
Nice to see my oldham coupling here :) good video ! Thanks
Thanks :)
Nice video, thx
Not perfect but better than most! Geez thanks man! YOU FREAKING ROCK! 🤘 ❤
What a bill for a $150 printer! I believe you'll exceed the budget of a flawless printer.
Can't say you are wrong. But tinkering with & fixing these budget printers is how you learn about the field. Of course not everyone wants to do that so buying a better printer that works flawlessly out of the box is probably the better option for many.
@@bluemonxterDIYTrue, IMHO the point is: do you want a working tool to make projects, or is the the 3D printer the project itself ? In the second option budget does not matter as you can run into endless upgrades, and the worst the printer, the better to keep on tinkering on it. I find using the printer to make useful projects is a bit more relevant. I really don't know if budget 3D printers are even any good enough for beginners as they do not allow a good experience. If you look at all the mods available, a 150 bucks 3D printer will always cost you more in no time, and your video is yet another example. I wonder why this stays untold. Just my two cents. 😉
@@axelSixtySix couldn't have said it better myself
If your z stepper driver if burning, you are likely binding. Reversed wires just causes jitter. Before you install the new main board make sure everything moves freely. Guess how I know 🤨.
You gave me a better idea how to solve the downward force on the stepper. Add the thrust bearings between the collet and the stepper on the bottom. Then the load is put into the body of the stepper. I just ordered the parts, I will see how it goes.
Using klipper you can run multiple MCUs in theory you could use your old board to create an IDEX.
Thanks for the advice. Will look into it. I do have plans for converting this printer into an IDEX some time in the near future. So yea, I will hang on to the board.
Did you make this dial indicator mount? I was looking at doing something similar.
No, it was part of the dial gauge. I just bolted it on with the T nut.
Great project, great details! A couple things. One, I’ve got an Anet A8Plus, which has dual z screws and dual steppers driving them. However, I’ve got a bent screw to replace and when I do it, I want to replace both. The oldham couplings, gantry mounts for the lead screws, your custom block at the bottom and the Gantry re-inforcement rods look like they would be a GREAT upgrade path for it! I don’t need the additional stepper you placed at top, nor the belt, etc….. but, looks interesting! Anyway, good stuff! Question though, sure the stepper drivers are soldered but couldn’t you just de-solder the bad one and replace it? I’m curious, I would think that would be easier than a whole board replacement and cheaper.
That is not an additional stepper, it's a sole stepper driving both screws. This is a good idea, since it keeps the two leadscrews in sync, while on a printer with two Z axis motors, there is no such thing. When the motors power off, different amounts of friction and load cause them to step back by a varying amount. When the axis is re-enabled, the motors snap to the next full step, and they will usually snap to whichever is closer. So given one side is fundamentally heavier than the other (houses X motor) or because when you enable the toolhead is parked there, or due to alignment and friction issues, there is a progressing tilt with each power on.
To be honest i don't find the beltpath entirely convincing, it looks like it will lead to possible skips, ideally you'd have another idler close to the motor. But it might just work.
@@SianaGearz Excellent explanation. The belt works for now but I am planning on adding an idler like you mentioned. If two motors are to be used for the Z axis, then both of them need their own drivers and both sides need to be homed separately with something like a BLtouch or maybe two endstops. All that won't be possible without a mainboard upgrade and firmware modification.
Thanks :) I had the Anet A8 a while back & it is a good machine but like the other comment mentions, having two motors with one driver will always make them out of synch every time the power is cycled. As for the burnt drivers, they can be replaced but I really don't have the expertise or the tools to re solder surface mount components. If it was a through wire type, I would have gone that way.
Would putting a thrust bearing between the coupling and case of the stepper motor fix putting the gantry weight on the motor shaft?
Can the issue of the gantry weight exerting pressure on the motor shaft be resolved by inserting a thrust bearing between the coupling and case of the stepper motor?
I put a steel ball in the flexible coupling so the shafts can rest on each othet while allowing some misalignment
Great project and a lot of love you give to that ender. I'm just wondering about two things: (1) how can the stepper driver burn by swapping two cables. AFAIK swapping two wires will never burn the motor nor the driver but instead either change direction or let the motor only wobble instead of move. And (2) I checked how much weight my stepper motor needs on the axis until it moves and it is around 3kg when the spring is compressed and it starts moving. Can't imagine how this is a problem. Sure it is better to avoid any load at all to the axis like you do now, but does this really affect print quality?
Thanks for your interest! Im not really sure why the drivers burnt up, the motor did wobble for a few seconds & then the burning smell followed. About the spring washer, a compression of 0.01mm is enough to cause a 5% variation if your layer height is 0.2, even more if your layer height is smaller.
So really it was a matter of eliminating all possible points of play and just following good design practice. I did not check the deflection of the motor shaft with a dial indicator.
love this video, but makes me sad to look out for this in the future. i am currently having a big issue with ringing and trying to fix it, i am looking for any information regarding z axis and how to make it work better.
forgot to ask if linear rails would work to fix issue and be less complicated to diagnose and dial in?
Thanks! Linear rails are definitely more reliable but you do need to make sure they are properly aligned when installing them. However, they don't affect the print quality that much. Mostly for convenience and reliability
plz give links to all small parts like the new belt ,pulley etc...
I have no idea what's going on in these videos, but they are #oddlysatisfying to watch
Thanks & keep watching :)
So did you remove the spring washer and from the stepper motor and just attach the alloy plate? Or did you do something else first?
Also where did you get the oldham couplers from, I read some reviews that some have had terrible tolerances, so I would like to find more reliable ones.
Thanks
The spring washer is an important part of the stepper and cannot be removed. I transferred the load to thrust bearing at the top. I got the Oldham couplers from aliexpress and yes, the tolerance is terrible. But if you install them above the lead nut, you will apply some preload to the coupling and the tolerance that way is pretty good
Since the pulley holding the leadscrew is already hanging on the bearingblock, there is no need to move the stepper to the top. The weight of the gantry is then supported by the bearingblock and not by the stepper.
You are right and I did consider that option, but I didn't want to use the leadscrew coupling as it can introduce problems of its own. But yes, it can definitely work.
@@bluemonxterDIY for me a flexible coupler did the trick, but I'm curious to see what eliminating the coupler all together will do to the print quality. I'm looking forward to see your results!
Lamento pela placa! ótimo vídeo para ajudar os iniciantes. Porem eu recomendaria comprar uma SKR2 no lugar da placa original. :D
Yes I have been thinking about it. I am planning to put klipper on the printer so might upgrade the board as well.
Supper nice video. You earned my sub! Thanks a lot! Can I know the parts specs and product links if you have please?
Thanks. I will update all the links in the description
Description is now updated. You can see all the part links.
Why did the motor driver catch fire?
My consideration is that it is not a short but a step-out that is caused by the difference in wiring, and the motor driver should not burn.
I would like to know more about the cause of the burnout.
Thanks for finding that wiring issue so I don't have to.
Hi! there IMHO, wouldn't you introduce unnecessary wear and tear to the dovetail surfaces on the oldham couplers if you were to place it hanging on the gantry? However, if the gantry is made to rest on the oldam couplers, then the weight of the gantry with gravity in our favor will mitigate for any play on the Z direction. And the weight of the gantry will always press against the oldham couplers and correspondingly to the lead screw to also mitigate backlash. Anyways thanks for sharing this very informative and helpful video to mitigate Z banding and other Z related issues. Cheers and keep up the good work.
Could you please add the stl files for the dial gauge mount to the description?
Will you also share where or what to order to follow up your solution 🤗
Sure, i will update the description with all the links
Description is now updated. You can see all the part links.
man just get an SKR mini off amazon for same price and have it installed by end of the week. No arduinio needed, just flash the bootloader with VS Code, plug it in and enjoy the significantly quieter printing experience.
Hanging the X axis from the oldham couplers greatly reduces the weight bearing surface area, increasing the friction thus reducing its ability to move freely.
Awesome video man; great content and good cadence too. Consider me subscribed!
Thanks for your interest and support :)
i often wonder why no one seems to use a 'coiled spring' counterweight system for the zed axis, to remove a lot of the load on the lead screw bearings/bushings, leaving enough load, in either direction, to eliminate backlash...just thinking...also...another thought, for another day.
Spring would introduce more vibrations on the z axis imo. I've seen pneumatic assist pistons for z on large CNC machines
#2:44 - how is the part attached to the indicator lug called / where can I buy one?
Don't know what its called. It comes as part of the magnetic dial gauge stand.
no link to purchase the dial gauge?
I borrowed mine from a friend but there are many on amazon such as this one www.amazon.com/Mornajina-Indicator-Magnetic-Precision-Adjustment/dp/B09KTZ25VJ/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=28MR5UAZHPSL2&keywords=dial+indicator&qid=1680950841&sprefix=dial+indicat%2Caps%2C282&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE4Rjk1WTE4MzFKRVMmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTEwNDUyMTZOODI2UUlRWjRHTjUmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDYwNjM1OEdXVENSRVNMWU1QMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Super
Thanks
aww i wanted to see result and how do you compare this to dual z stepper with a bl touch for auto z alignment
I found a work around for the z axis testing. Will upload the results coming Friday :). Dual Z (or triple!) stepper with individual control is actually the best way to go. But for that you need to upgrade the main board and modify the firmware. For my Corexy build I am planning on triple Z stepper with kinematic couplings.
@@bluemonxterDIY my dual z are already installed with an octopus pro but having to much issue with the bl touch have to manualy edit all mesh and dosent save the new mesh properly but that for another time
@@bluemonxterDIY i am about to get rid of second stepper if this work wonder im kinda sick of auto z leveling taking forever and everytime its turn off there a bunch more inacuracy
10:20 Not sure how you managed to burn out the drivers, because swapping any of the 2 wires going to the motor, just makes the motor move the opposite direction.
So what you should have done is move the Z axis to the middle of it's range, so it can move in either direction without crashing.
watching the vid again, you probably shorted the leads inside the motor when you took it apart.
I am quite surprised. How did you destroy you stepper? Did you let a full print go without checking? Usually, you can go ahead with the wrong wiring, and visually check, but for it to damage the driver, the current has to be very highh, or the command was very long
Many people have asked me the same question and I am not sure why my drivers fried instantly. I only moved the motor manually from the LCD, it vibrated in place and then stopped moving altogether. Immediately I tried the same on the X and the result was exactly the same. Perhaps I as unlucky, or maybe the older Ender 3 boards don't have the proper protection built in.
Can you place links to everything you used? Especially the nut you used
Sure, I will add it in the description.
Belted Z is or coreXZ is the way to go 😃
you can replace the driver on the pcb
I will hang on to the board & try to repair it in the future.
Hm why hanging the rods with bearings from the top`?
Why not leaving the motor downside und putting a bearing on the motorshaft between the Motor and the Couppler on the shaft so the bearing takes the downforce and not the moving motorshaft. So it should stay stable when pushing the bed upwards because the bearing supports the coupler?
So your able to do it on both sides and unse G44 for Gantry squaring with BL-Touch?
Anyone tested?
Not a bad idea, I might test this
Will this work on a cr10s pro? I have the rods installed. But been having z wobble with tall prints.
It will definitely help, the brace rod kit is available for the CR10 on aliexpress. But limitations of a bed slinger start kicking in on taller prints.
cant find them for T12
Wobble Wing and Ballscrews?
great video! It's a shame you burn the mother board... I hoppe whe will see the final results😉
May you put the files for the material?
Thanks. I found a workaround for testing the z axis. Putting the final touches on the video and I will upload it coming Friday :)
@@bluemonxterDIY Super
Where can i find the rigidity kit for an Ender3. I can’t find it on Alliexpress…
Search for pull rod kit. I used this one www.aliexpress.us/item/1005002571417570.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.13.27451802iGfLe2&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=SA Hope that helps :)
@@bluemonxterDIY thank you very much!😄
It's not the couplers, it's the T-Nuts. Machining on a 2$ part is just bad and wobbly, use POM instead those wont wobble up and down. Those are molded and much more precise. Did that yestersay on m y cr10s pro v2, dial gauge reports perfect movement now. Dont use anti backlash nuts, regular ones + Z-sync is key.
Can share the STL files for the housing second lead screw?
Sure. Just uploaded it. www.thingiverse.com/thing:5742254/files
It would benefit all us not as wise, to have links to the items you use in this video!
👍👍👍
Link to where you can buy Oldhams?Please
I used this one www.aliexpress.us/item/1005004622136488.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.37.3b941802VJ9qX6&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa&_randl_shipto=SA
1:55 are you showing us an Ender 3 with a stripped motor screw? Only time I see that bend on an extruder tensioner arm. Lol. Actually, looks like the whole thing's loose, at 4:30 you can see another side crooked.
And a lot of the time that elephant's foot imo is contributed to everyone saying their backlash nuts should be loose. All of mine are snug, not tight.
The BLV kit had no issues with nuts holes spacement, the issue was your nut. It was not the correct one.
Learning costs money!
I wish I saw this a year ago.
If one cannot spend $800, what would be the single most effective thing to buy to help z axis?
In my opinion, the belth synchronized dual z kit would be the best bang for your buck.
@@bluemonxterDIY ok cool thanks!
There are two pin outs available commercially for 4 wires to six pin stepper motors , either pairing pins 1 & 3 plus 4 & 6 or pins 1 & 4 plus 3 & 6. Get a multimeter and do a continuity check on the pin pairings to check which pin out you have on each stepper motor. You can mix the types if you have to on a build, just customise the lead end by unclipping the tiny lead terminations and swapping over pins 3 & 4 as needed. Assuming a random wire will work without testing what stepper pin out you have compared to the board, rookie mistake..... Also you can use parallel or series wiring of paired steppers but not recommended at all either way. About the only application you can get away with it is on a couple of low use Z drives that sit doing nothing most of the time. On higher grade machines with laser cutters etc. you always go single motor to multi drive via belts on same axis, with dual motors if one fails you can skew the axis badly and blow the machine/enclosure across a room, just happens on hobbyist home 3d printers you can get away with lot's of bad habits as the masses, speeds and forces are usually low and slow so failures are non catastrophic. (exception is my VzBoT that has some serious forces in play, with full enclosure being the only option with 4 x 48V steppers driving the print head gantry in AWD mode)
Excellent info. I agree with you about the bad design habits you can get away with on 3d printers and most of us modders are usually fixing those.
The unsupported side the wheels should barely touch the extrusions.
Why would you order the part from aliexpress when you can get it in like a week from amazon?
Amazon is shipping the board at double the price to my location so I had to go to Aliexpress.
@@bluemonxterDIY Ahh makes sense. That sucks
why not do a belted z at this point?
I had thought of that, and in my opinion that is the best thing you can do for the z axis, but i wanted to maximize the use of metal parts. Plastic creep reduces the reliability long term. And since there are no metal kits for belted z, i had resort to this
not sure how you killed the stepper drivers easily because ive had wires the wrong way before ive never killed a stepper driver before. but then again i use ones that are not embedded so maybe thats the issue the embedded ones are weak.
seems like you kind of made it like a i3 style z axis.....almost anyway
My enders do not suffer from this. Instead my dual z printers are a pain to level and keep level. Loading filament misalign it
Yes absolutely. Most "dual Z" printers have two motors driven by one stepper driver and you will loose the alignment at every power cycle. You either need to synch the two with a belt like I have done here. For this you don't need any electronics or firmware modification. Or you need to home both the motors independently, for this you DO need a new controller board and firmware.
@@bluemonxterDIY My printer is a fokoos odin 5 f3
hot sparkels of metal can get sutck on your glass bed
At some point I need to accept that eventually I’d be better off getting a rat rig or voron rather than upgrading my ender more
Definitely. At some point, you will reach the limit of any bed slinger.
On the other hand the fact that the ender is so affordable makes the hobby more accessible, there's no way I would have built a voron or gotten an expensive prusa. Perhaps for my next printer I'll build a voron, but for now I'm happy with my ender 3 v2, even if it's far from perfect. It being cheap makes it not too scary to modify and learn about the printer before eventually getting a better machine.
It'd be a lot easier and probably cheaper to get a board that supports dual independent Z steppers
I burned the mainboard the same way...
I feel like it does't improve anything by placing the step motor on top and use a belt. RIght now, with your thrust bearing which I really like that idea, the entire weight of X Axis is now supported by the two lead screws, and nothing will be compressing your Z step motor.
Excellent work and video here! I tested my Prusa i3 mk3s and both of my Wanhao D6 printers. The Prusa motion was nearly perfect at every 0.2 mm step. The Prusa dual motor solution is simple and works perfectly. I would copy that. The Wanhao with beautiful looking ball screw drive was off by 20% on 0.2 mm steps in a pattern that repeated over the 4 mm screw pitch. So the Wanhao with its ultra cheap bearings that fail and horrible ball screw is useless in printing anything that needs smooth sides. I recommend the digital gauge that Harbor Freight sells. It is really nice to have the digital readout. I am about to replace the ball screw in both Wanhao printers to make them useful. The other possibility is to measure the error and correct for it in the software.
Bit of research before to buy that 3D printer, could make you save a lot of money i think.. ;-) Cheap + precision doesn't match ( that's why most of people that want things well made, buying German tools and stuff ) Surely if you were checking the Z axis error with a "chinese" comparator (rather than a well made and precise Mitutoyo ), you shouldn't have noticed that error .. ;-)
Plus everyone that buying 3D printers made by aluminum extruded bars , cant achieve the rigidity of a Stainless steel body , obviously aluminum bend easily than Steel ;-) ( Nice video anyway , surely many people will thanks you )
Thanks for your interest in the video :). Cheap printers are begging to be modded. Surely you could buy a 1000$ machine and get excellent qaulity out of the box, but where is the fun in that ;)
Most of the Z layer problems on these cheap Ender 3's / clones come from the leadscrew not having a supported bearing bracket at the top. The spin center shifts and moves around as it rotates with layer changes and causes inconsistent height travel. There is no need for all the other "fixes".