Part 1 - th-cam.com/video/kG_YKeJDaX8/w-d-xo.html Part 3 - th-cam.com/video/4jk6kZIwsQA/w-d-xo.html Part 4 - th-cam.com/video/EQJfDLENYnU/w-d-xo.html Get this 3D printer for $189 with this affiliate link: bit.ly/3kcSKz0 and discount code: RP3ROMP10 As always, I'll be updating this pinned comment with FAQs and updates: Q: How much did everything total to? A: Part 1 totaled around $138, not including the raspberry pi. Part 3 totaled around $250 to $300 depending on which endoscope model you choose and where you order your parts from. Keep in mind though that if you were to add these mods to your printer it will likely cost you a lot less since a lot of these recommendations added in part 3 replace the ones from part 1. Q: What are my Cura / support settings? A: Details on this are explained in the Part 2 video in the Q&A section th-cam.com/video/uBfMoOqCgPc/w-d-xo.html Q: What 3D modeling software do I use? A: Fusion 360
As others have already pointed out: 1) Ringing and ghosting? If the answer is a lot, ever considered remote direct drive? 2) Change the thermistor. Best upgrade possible. NTC 100K are extremely inaccurate. 3) Nylon is not easy to print, and has a really narrow field of application. That said, a conversion to higher thermal capabilities (maybe not PEEK and ULTEM) on an Ender 3 could be cool. Especially the heated enclosure. 4) CR 30? Overall, I would say that you're getting really good at it. Keep it up!
My jaw dropped at that flexible phone case just printed right there, peeling that thing off, honestly incredible I’ve never seen anything like that in my life
Same! When I saw him do that upgrade, I was like ehhh I don’t need this one.. and then I saw him print the phone case.. and changed my mind. Now I want it in the future forsure.
lol i thought that he had like 1 /5 mil subs but than i saw he only had 200k witch astounds me because of the quality content (sorry for the bad english btw)
Scotty you have successfully boiled my 3 years of searching, learning, printing, failing, and correcting into 3 succinct and comprehensive videos. Here I am back again to pickup some final mods to my Ender 3 pro. Got my 'stupid' silent fans installed, skr mini board, tft touch screen, buck converters...working on my rear electronics box and fine-tuning my cooling duct. Thanks again for all of your time and research!
quick tip: when you replace a fan, like 90% of the time the sticker on the back of the motor can be peeled off to expose the wire solder points. Just de solder the wire from the old fan and the new one and then re solder the old wire to the new fan. its easier and cleaner. Also there are plenty of 3d printable extruder heads and direct drives that are probably better than what you got do to more compatibility, more customizable, and lighter in weight.
Please make more videos! Absolutely love the quality in editing and your suggestions/builds are extremely interesting and informative. Give it a year and this could easily snowball into more than a full-time career. You have a great voice and setup for YT.
Re watching this about a year later when I know more about 3D printing I find it so very fascinating the way you can tell how Scott has learned so much from this experience! What a great project based experience!
Actually that would be a good idea as electrical work seems to be pretty important and if people choose to eventually build their own printer (something like a Voron) it would make it more accessible. Not sure how it would work with your snappy engaging editing style. Love these videos and the creative urge they give me. I think Creality must have made quite a few sales off this series.
100% Agree, I'll be receiving mine soon! and I'm so motivated even more now to mod it but when I ended up in the electrical work part I immediately said ''nope skip this mod'', It's not that I wouldn't try but the fear of bricking the printer or making it worst just puts me off, especially since I'm a total beginner with modding this type of stuff
Enclosers done right can lower the sound to negligible levels. The foam works particularly well on 3D printers assuming that it's air tight with negative pressure. That seal on its own does a significant amount of sound dampening. The fans typically make mid to high frequency sounds which is what foam excels at. Stepper motors are quiet but the movement of metal on metal is slightly audible. It's probably because metal moving on metal is sometimes a very low frequency sound.
Scott, thank you so much for your 3 videos on upgrading the Ender Pro. Because of the time and work you used to make theses videos I have decided to purchase a Ender Pro and modify it to my liking. You are doing great service to the community and, again, thank you.
Z-Axis already carries the weight of the extruder and its stepper motor. The key difference is now the X-Axis has that additional weight where previously the bowden hotend was a lot lighter. Increased weight on the X-Axis may introduce ringing when you're making fast X moves.
I think the stepper motor drivers on the new board he added could potentially help. Also, why is prusa able to print faster with less ringing for direct drive?
@@sidewinded1 Its because prusa uses lightweight stepper motors and the x carrige itself is extruder. So its just a little more heavy than a regular bowden setup.
@@beratbaki1681 Thanks for the explanation, although wouldnt it still be slower than a bowden because there is still more weight? Thank you, coming from a prusa owner lol
@@sidewinded1 Definetly bowden is faster than prusa. But the direct drive has more benefits I think. I personally do not care about printing faster but printing acurratly. Thats because I upgraded my Cr-10 with a bmg dual drive and a normal sized nema 17.
@@beratbaki1681 Yeah. I personally enjoy the hassle-free ness of direct drive. It gives me a lot more versatility, something extremely useful for multiple plastics
Instead of straight swapping out the PSU fan, could you print a new PSU shroud with mounting holes for an 80 or even 92mm fan? A bigger fan will spin slower for even quiter operation. ATX PSUs use the biggest fan possible for this reason. Probs negligible difference, but it just seems like there is plenty of space left for it.
Klipper was a huge game changer. Really took things to a whole new level. I use Mainsail and that tends to work really well. This helped cut down on blobs and overall inconsistencies in the print. Paired with the dual gear and insulation under the bed (and bed mounts instead of springs) made the prints amazing. It has been a huge headache and only recently have I even gotten back to using it. But the learning experience was well worth it for the quality (and speed) I've gotten out of such a machine.
haha thank you so much Hector. i'm definitely trying to slowly up my video production quality with each video so i appreciate that you noticed. cheers!
For anyone considering switching to direct drive for an Ender 3, z-additions are not necessary as the motor doesn't touch the top rail, you can simply run the cables from one side of the printer rather than vertically.
I recommend adding back the Teflon housing for the filament to avoid yanking on the spool when the extruder moves to the edges. this will introduce filament tension during extrusion and that leads to imperfection in the prints
Hmm, he has ball bearings for the spool. I have the same setup with the filament going in the top. My biggest issue is the filament path of the microswiss. At times it is hard to get it fed right. I straighten it beforehand and you get better at it over time.
Hey, wanted to say thank you. Your series inspired me to get into 3D printing, and I'm about 75% of the way though most of the mods you've done, with a couple of extra ones along the way. I'd definitely recommend the BigTreeTech touch screen, it's excellent, and even with octoprint, still use it all the time. Also, when is the next vid coming? - you promised! (you didn't, but that's how I heard it! ;) )
I just got mine but haven't messed with it. What do you think one of the First MODSs I should do ?...I bought a (self ?) Leveling thing and a glass bed
@@MOE13576 in honesty I eventually just built a Voron 2.4.r2. Other than octopi, I'm not sure most of them made the printer much better. Some made my print quality worse but that was likely just my novice abilities at the time. Now I built the Voron, the e3 went in the loft. Definitely the touch screen and octopi. Maybe handles too.
@@lucaskp16 Sadly this is true. People are always like “Prusa is overpriced and overcharges” but when you look at the specs you are getting a Prusa for cheaper with the same specs, better quality and customer support...
@@lucaskp16 Yes, and no, let me explain, u get the prusa, and yeah is neat out of the box, but with the ender 3, or the v2, you get a "decent" printer that you put to work, get some cash, upgrade it, etc
I'm buying the Ender 3 Pro tomorrow new from Microcenter since they're doing a promotion for new customers selling them for $99.99. Basically $100 off so I figured now is the best time to get into it since I have ALWAYS wanted to get into 3D printing. I can't wait to start the learning process. I'm a complete noob but your videos have given me a lot of confidence and got me super excited. Still can't believe what a deal Microcenter is doing for the Ender 3 pro. So awesome.
Have you seen the transparent polycarbonate wheels? They say they are more resistant, have better glide and will also combine perfectly with the other mods, excellent work
@@LuxGamer16step 19, so i just 3d printed a prison so now my wallet can't run away in fear, Now I can sell any amount of kidney i want to buy more upgrade
@@batmandalorian5504 I agree with your point, that's why I try to keep my waste to a minimum and I try to only print in PLA. I'm planning on finding a place that does industrial composting of PLA to give my scraps to.
This is a great series of videos! And while most TH-camrs seem to take what's really just 2-3 minutes worth of content, and try to stretch them out into 10-15 minute videos by filling them with nonsense and ads. You take what could easily be 30 - 40 minutes of _worthwhile_ content, but still manage to compress them even further into ~14-minute videos... Thank you Scott! Thank you for respecting my time! I wish all TH-camrs were like this! ☺
you can try 4 dabs of rtv silicone in each corner under the glass bed and then take the clips off after a bit. Silicone temp is 600. Easy enough to remove strong enough with just a bit of silly.
The amount of effort that goes into a video like this deserves a lot more love. Your insane man and I'm looking forward to future videos! Ill definitely be doing every one of these upgrades once I get this thing!
Guys if you still struggle with glass bed adhesion just wash it under warm water with some soap. Nothing will degrease the surface like this simple solution now it's hard for me to release the prints from my bed.
Indeed. Use your clean hand to wash the surface with a drop of dish soap and hot water. Dry with paper towel and don't touch it. The next 5 prints will stick fast. I normally use the scraper to move any dust aside between prints.
I just got into 3d printing since last week when i very good friend of me gifted his ender 3 to me because he bought a bambulab printer, i printed a bency and a gameboyshell, sadly the extruder is leaking and the thermistor broke for some reason, replacement was cheap, this is a good hobby :)
To cool the endoscope camera you could also print an extra mounting surface on the fancover/cameraholder to put a heatsink to lead the heat away and cool it elsewhere.
Dude! so I got an Ender 3 Pro from Offerup for cheap. I'd been looking at several different 3D printers, and I'm really glad this deal came along and I got it. Being new to 3D printing I was a bit overwhelmed, but after watching your videos on upgrades, it helped me understand some of the trials and tribulations encountered in the world of 3D printing. Also, to challenge myself more, I've never had a Raspberry Pi, but seeing you install one on your printer has compelled me to get one and start learning how to integrate it! So, once I can successfully print (this was not originally assembled by me, and I have beginners problems of leveling, and first layer not sticking), I'm totally looking forward to printing many of the upgraded you've shown in your video. I'll be sure to follow up with comments at a later date! I even got a leveling kit with the printer, but the probe is missing, so I'll have to see about getting another probe. :'( Thank you for your videos!!
That's honestly not a good deal. They're very often $155-165 in various places. IMO you're shooting yourself in the foot with the Ender 3. The Ender 3 Pro has a quality Meanwell PSU for about $40 more, which is the price of the PSU by itself, plus it has a few other upgrades to boot. Even THEN you're shooting yourself in the foot usually because the Ender V2 usually you can find for $240-260, and it adds a silent stepper motor mainboard ($30-40 upgrade usually), belt tensioners, touch screen control ($30ish upgrade), and other upgrades. Almost anyone would appreciate at the very least a PSU that won't burn your house down that you can trust, your printer not sounding like it's trying to annoy you using a voice box (EEEEEEEEEEEYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!). Those two things alone make the Ender v2 worth the extra money for most people.
I also have the Microswiss Direct Extruder and it's phenomenal! But as I got I the released a newer one with rails... Scott did you also have Problems with just one Z-Axis-Motor? Now I upgraded to dual Z as my whole x Axis had some wobble and the first few layers got crazy bad. Dual Z eliminated this problem :) PS: Scott you need to get a Tft35 (BigteeTechTouchDispaly), its awesome.
you might also be able to do regular compressed air. i remember seeing a video where a guy put a valve in the bottom of one of those air cans, so he could fill it with air from his garage compressor.
Just watched all three parts. Really like the progression from 'printing parts for the sake of it' (not judging BTW - we all do it), to giving careful consideration to useful performance upgrades.
Just a couple of ideas for you. Every time you cut two wires, cut them at different lengths, that way you only need one piece of heat shrink and they won't ever be able to touch even if they move or fray. Also, use a large heat shrink tube piece over the buck converter instead of tape. When using those 0.1 inch connectors to make an inline connector to join two wires, use a three way one with the earth wire in the middle and leaving one end empty. That way you'll never plug them in backwards accidentally and even if you do, it doesn't do any damage.
Scott, I see there is a lot of comments... here is another one :) You mentioned you loose on the height because of the way it is held. I have the MSDD as well and I place the wires in the front so it goes around the printer and not through it and I do not loose height. :)
Scott, very awesome video's. thank you for for teaching me new things and keep up the work. i cant wait for more videos and will buy you a coffee. thank you for being awesome.
Thanks Scott for the videos. I am going to do some more custom upgrades to my Ender 3X that you showed on your videos. I did the all metal dual gear extruder as one of my first upgrades. Workers great. One upgrade I did was I purchased 600mm dual channel extrusion to extend my build height, a second Z axis stepper motor kit ( included dual Z-axis motor controll cable) and two 600mm lead screws for the extended height.
For your can of air if you dont want to use that try one of these:Vaper 19419 Red Spot Spray Non-Aerosol Sprayer You can even add your own liquid if you want.
printed out the cover you linked for the tensioner cover , it fits the original creality stock front belt tension assembly but does not fit the creality made adjustable front assembly, doing some research looks to be a couple style of adjusters from creality some changes as they progressed , just finished making a raw 3d shape going to make it to see if it fits and has clearance will let you know
Could you do a short video about all the extra tool kits you keep around to use with your prints, or link in the comments like the set of machine screws or the other inserts you add?
You make some insanely good videos and your editing skills are seriously impressive. I however would like to compliment your ability to accept constructive criticism and changing your behaviour, that is admirable! Great job!
Thanks for your videos. My main hobby is trains, shooting videos of trains during the week with just an iPhone but on the weekends or while on vacation with my drones. So I have a good bit of money tied up in that hobby but like most train enthusiasts I also have a model railroad in my basement. Not the usual HO scale which has an almost endless supply for models and parts available but the much larger and more realistic looking O scale, not to be confused with O gauge. O gauge is the toy scale with 3 rails that was designed to handle tight unrealistic curves. O scale is as the name implies "scaled" properly. It's two rail and the curves are quite large, taking up a lot of basement space. Unfortunately O scale is very limited in what models are available. There are only a couple manufacturers of O scale locomotives and rolling stock. And they usually only release a handful of new models a year. So if you want a specific piece of rolling stock from say 1972, well sorry, they last made that piece 6 years ago. It's sold out and they won't be making it again until? Who knows? So I have been considering getting into 3d printing. I know when it comes to making 3d models you can see the print lines. Less on flat pieces and more on angled pieces. Most of the pieces I would like to print are flat or mostly flat. I would love to be able to print an entire hopper car. Then just add the metal parts. Decals in O scale are also hard to find. So I have also been looking into multi color printers. Fortunately the main color besides black is white so if it was possible to print the car body in black and finish with white raised lettering and logos that would be super. So I'm still investigating what is possible and how much it will cost. Your video was very informative on how the printer can be modified and also what quality the pieces are printed in. Thanks for making this video!
I suggest you move from cigarette lighters to gas torch. There are lots of them different, I've had cheap noname form China. I have tried fancy one from kitchen supply store. Both where working, the expensive lasted longer. My current is Dremel and it is great.
You get a like just for the Edgar Wright-esque skips and cuts. Very informative, very well explained, entertaining... surely it was a ton of work. Keep it up, i'm subbed.
i come back to this comment from time to time because it makes me so happy. edgar wright is one of my biggest inspirations when it comes to editing haha thanks for the kind words, András.
Part 1 - th-cam.com/video/kG_YKeJDaX8/w-d-xo.html
Part 3 - th-cam.com/video/4jk6kZIwsQA/w-d-xo.html
Part 4 - th-cam.com/video/EQJfDLENYnU/w-d-xo.html
Get this 3D printer for $189 with this affiliate link: bit.ly/3kcSKz0 and discount code: RP3ROMP10
As always, I'll be updating this pinned comment with FAQs and updates:
Q: How much did everything total to?
A: Part 1 totaled around $138, not including the raspberry pi.
Part 3 totaled around $250 to $300 depending on which endoscope model you choose and where you order your parts from.
Keep in mind though that if you were to add these mods to your printer it will likely cost you a lot less since a lot of these recommendations added in part 3 replace the ones from part 1.
Q: What are my Cura / support settings?
A: Details on this are explained in the Part 2 video in the Q&A section th-cam.com/video/uBfMoOqCgPc/w-d-xo.html
Q: What 3D modeling software do I use?
A: Fusion 360
Can you add a touch of RGB lights.
As others have already pointed out:
1) Ringing and ghosting? If the answer is a lot, ever considered remote direct drive?
2) Change the thermistor. Best upgrade possible. NTC 100K are extremely inaccurate.
3) Nylon is not easy to print, and has a really narrow field of application. That said, a conversion to higher thermal capabilities (maybe not PEEK and ULTEM) on an Ender 3 could be cool. Especially the heated enclosure.
4) CR 30?
Overall, I would say that you're getting really good at it. Keep it up!
Do you use marlin or the stock os? If you use the stock os, how did you add the bltouch without having any problems?
Was the micro swiss worth it? Just got a second Ender 3 and, I plan to Gucci it out.
Part 2 of the resin printer?
When you max out your starter weapon
When you finish Need for Speed with the starter car
YES!!!
when your ender 3 is an ender 9
@@gustavrsh lol n1
Lmfao
My jaw dropped at that flexible phone case just printed right there, peeling that thing off, honestly incredible I’ve never seen anything like that in my life
Same! It's amazing!
Same! When I saw him do that upgrade, I was like ehhh I don’t need this one.. and then I saw him print the phone case.. and changed my mind. Now I want it in the future forsure.
This man has higher quality than most channels with 10m subs.
Keep up the great work.
16M subs: enes batur 🤢🤮
Yeah i just got my Ender 3 Pro and this is so helpful
truth
lol i thought that he had like 1 /5 mil subs but than i saw he only had 200k witch astounds me because of the quality content (sorry for the bad english btw)
Scotty you have successfully boiled my 3 years of searching, learning, printing, failing, and correcting into 3 succinct and comprehensive videos. Here I am back again to pickup some final mods to my Ender 3 pro. Got my 'stupid' silent fans installed, skr mini board, tft touch screen, buck converters...working on my rear electronics box and fine-tuning my cooling duct. Thanks again for all of your time and research!
just got an skr and oh my god the difference is insane, I was almost in shock
Dude, the Transitions, the Music... This shit is awsome. :O
At 40k subs he is a great youtuber and he has only uploaded like 6 videos he is really cool!! 😳😳😳😀😀😀😀
AND ITS TIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIME i hope im not the only one that heard that in the song
Yeah that music would be great for parties, If only I could get my band to learn a couple of these tunes, lol :)
quick tip: when you replace a fan, like 90% of the time the sticker on the back of the motor can be peeled off to expose the wire solder points. Just de solder the wire from the old fan and the new one and then re solder the old wire to the new fan. its easier and cleaner. Also there are plenty of 3d printable extruder heads and direct drives that are probably better than what you got do to more compatibility, more customizable, and lighter in weight.
I was afraid of replacing the fans because I thought I might ruin the printer when cutting the wires thx man
Just be careful not to bridge the solder point when resoldering 👍
Please make more videos! Absolutely love the quality in editing and your suggestions/builds are extremely interesting and informative. Give it a year and this could easily snowball into more than a full-time career. You have a great voice and setup for YT.
Re watching this about a year later when I know more about 3D printing I find it so very fascinating the way you can tell how Scott has learned so much from this experience! What a great project based experience!
I wish you would do tutorials. I'm scared to do the electrical work without step by step, and I think you would make great tutorials.
Actually that would be a good idea as electrical work seems to be pretty important and if people choose to eventually build their own printer (something like a Voron) it would make it more accessible. Not sure how it would work with your snappy engaging editing style. Love these videos and the creative urge they give me. I think Creality must have made quite a few sales off this series.
100% Agree, I'll be receiving mine soon! and I'm so motivated even more now to mod it but when I ended up in the electrical work part I immediately said ''nope skip this mod'', It's not that I wouldn't try but the fear of bricking the printer or making it worst just puts me off, especially since I'm a total beginner with modding this type of stuff
I agree, because I'm gonna do an Ender 3 Max video about mods too.
World's quietest 3D printer ever.
I hope that's a joke🤣
@Ethan Lu ender 3 silenced is better
Enclosers done right can lower the sound to negligible levels. The foam works particularly well on 3D printers assuming that it's air tight with negative pressure. That seal on its own does a significant amount of sound dampening.
The fans typically make mid to high frequency sounds which is what foam excels at. Stepper motors are quiet but the movement of metal on metal is slightly audible. It's probably because metal moving on metal is sometimes a very low frequency sound.
when he flicked the baby, my heart dropped. R.I.P BEBE
dababy
@@Egir53 YEAH YEAH
But it come back, he just got a tent now (3th time watching it now i see it) look at the left side of the tool head at the end! Bebe iz bakk
Less gooooo
Scott, thank you so much for your 3 videos on upgrading the Ender Pro. Because of the time and work you used to make theses videos I have decided to purchase a Ender Pro and modify it to my liking. You are doing great service to the community and, again, thank you.
Z-Axis already carries the weight of the extruder and its stepper motor. The key difference is now the X-Axis has that additional weight where previously the bowden hotend was a lot lighter. Increased weight on the X-Axis may introduce ringing when you're making fast X moves.
I think the stepper motor drivers on the new board he added could potentially help. Also, why is prusa able to print faster with less ringing for direct drive?
@@sidewinded1 Its because prusa uses lightweight stepper motors and the x carrige itself is extruder. So its just a little more heavy than a regular bowden setup.
@@beratbaki1681 Thanks for the explanation, although wouldnt it still be slower than a bowden because there is still more weight? Thank you, coming from a prusa owner lol
@@sidewinded1 Definetly bowden is faster than prusa. But the direct drive has more benefits I think. I personally do not care about printing faster but printing acurratly. Thats because I upgraded my Cr-10 with a bmg dual drive and a normal sized nema 17.
@@beratbaki1681 Yeah. I personally enjoy the hassle-free ness of direct drive. It gives me a lot more versatility, something extremely useful for multiple plastics
The connectors for the “housing and crimping set” are called Dupont Connectors and Crimpers 👍
Instead of straight swapping out the PSU fan, could you print a new PSU shroud with mounting holes for an 80 or even 92mm fan? A bigger fan will spin slower for even quiter operation. ATX PSUs use the biggest fan possible for this reason. Probs negligible difference, but it just seems like there is plenty of space left for it.
Ditch the spoole and get a filament dehydrator. Keeps them nice and dry.
Klipper was a huge game changer. Really took things to a whole new level. I use Mainsail and that tends to work really well. This helped cut down on blobs and overall inconsistencies in the print. Paired with the dual gear and insulation under the bed (and bed mounts instead of springs) made the prints amazing. It has been a huge headache and only recently have I even gotten back to using it. But the learning experience was well worth it for the quality (and speed) I've gotten out of such a machine.
The quality of your videos is insane. I can only imagine the effort you put in these, the flow, the camera angles and the set are just amazing.
Dang bro you killed it with this one. I can tell your video editing skills have increased significantly like Goku reaching Super Saiyan levels.
haha thank you so much Hector. i'm definitely trying to slowly up my video production quality with each video so i appreciate that you noticed. cheers!
@@ScottYuJan i didn't think they could get better but daym you are good at it
@@ScottYuJan hey I can’t get the Fanta to work. I connect yellow to red and black to blue and it never kicks on.
@@NightBlade58 for the PSU power supply fan?
@@ScottYuJan for the upgraded cooling fan that goes into the remix part that I printed. I am essentially copying your build.
For anyone considering switching to direct drive for an Ender 3, z-additions are not necessary as the motor doesn't touch the top rail, you can simply run the cables from one side of the printer rather than vertically.
I recommend adding back the Teflon housing for the filament to avoid yanking on the spool when the extruder moves to the edges. this will introduce filament tension during extrusion and that leads to imperfection in the prints
Hmm, he has ball bearings for the spool. I have the same setup with the filament going in the top. My biggest issue is the filament path of the microswiss. At times it is hard to get it fed right. I straighten it beforehand and you get better at it over time.
Hey, wanted to say thank you. Your series inspired me to get into 3D printing, and I'm about 75% of the way though most of the mods you've done, with a couple of extra ones along the way. I'd definitely recommend the BigTreeTech touch screen, it's excellent, and even with octoprint, still use it all the time.
Also, when is the next vid coming? - you promised! (you didn't, but that's how I heard it! ;) )
I just got mine but haven't messed with it. What do you think one of the First MODSs I should do ?...I bought a (self ?) Leveling thing and a glass bed
@@MOE13576 in honesty I eventually just built a Voron 2.4.r2.
Other than octopi, I'm not sure most of them made the printer much better. Some made my print quality worse but that was likely just my novice abilities at the time. Now I built the Voron, the e3 went in the loft.
Definitely the touch screen and octopi. Maybe handles too.
@@ZeoniaSD alright, thanks
That is a completely different printer.
Prusa level printer :)
@@sidewinded1 more expensive than a prusa
@@lucaskp16 Sadly this is true. People are always like “Prusa is overpriced and overcharges” but when you look at the specs you are getting a Prusa for cheaper with the same specs, better quality and customer support...
@@lucaskp16 Yes, and no, let me explain, u get the prusa, and yeah is neat out of the box, but with the ender 3, or the v2, you get a "decent" printer that you put to work, get some cash, upgrade it, etc
Is there anything left of the original printer??
I'm buying the Ender 3 Pro tomorrow new from Microcenter since they're doing a promotion for new customers selling them for $99.99. Basically $100 off so I figured now is the best time to get into it since I have ALWAYS wanted to get into 3D printing. I can't wait to start the learning process. I'm a complete noob but your videos have given me a lot of confidence and got me super excited. Still can't believe what a deal Microcenter is doing for the Ender 3 pro. So awesome.
First time viewing one of your videos. Highly informative, concise, and with links to all the items - you're a goddamn national treasure, bud. Thanks
Came across your Ender 3 Pro Upgrades & Mods video Part 1 and immediately followed up with Part 2 and Part 3. Your videos are a pleasure to watch!
I’m pretty sure I watched the first video and bought and Ender 5 plus. I just got around to getting an ender 3V2
I want to buy the official Creality x Scott Yu-Jan Ender 3.5 Pro...
Where is the link to purchase?
Ngl I would buy something like that
Thanks
Have you seen the transparent polycarbonate wheels? They say they are more resistant, have better glide and will also combine perfectly with the other mods, excellent work
My favorites are X and Y axis Linear rails, Micro-swiss direct-drive extruder, and my heated enclosed filament dispenser.
good god scott you're airing an ender 3 pro video on the day i'm buying an ender 3 pro
That is a financial mistake. My wallet is allready hiding i cant find that fucker.
@@LuxGamer16 Watch your wallet run away when you go to buy a prusa!
@@LuxGamer16step 19,
so i just 3d printed a prison so now my wallet can't run away in fear,
Now I can sell any amount of kidney i want to buy more upgrade
Congrats I got mine about 8 months now. And it’s great
I really love the idea of quiet fans, cheers
Top notch editing, Scott! Thanks for the great tips!
Great job. Classic black and white design. Get a lot of inspiration. Thanks for sharing.
Just for the fact that you mentioned how the can of air isn't great for the environment, you immediately get an upvote, thanks for bein considerate.
sure but what about all the microplastic entering the environment now when using a printer ?
@@batmandalorian5504 I agree with your point, that's why I try to keep my waste to a minimum and I try to only print in PLA. I'm planning on finding a place that does industrial composting of PLA to give my scraps to.
This is a great series of videos! And while most TH-camrs seem to take what's really just 2-3 minutes worth of content, and try to stretch them out into 10-15 minute videos by filling them with nonsense and ads. You take what could easily be 30 - 40 minutes of _worthwhile_ content, but still manage to compress them even further into ~14-minute videos... Thank you Scott! Thank you for respecting my time! I wish all TH-camrs were like this! ☺
Get this man to 1 mil
you can try 4 dabs of rtv silicone in each corner under the glass bed and then take the clips off after a bit. Silicone temp is 600. Easy enough to remove strong enough with just a bit of silly.
You inspired me to get into 3D printing, so I bought a Prusa mini :). Cant wait to see what part 3 includes 👀
this is part 3
Lol wait for your 10 week shipping like my i3
@@3dprintingtoday My upgrade kit mk3s to 3s+ is on back order for 11 weeks now
It’s the best got my mini 2 months ago it’s the best
@@computertecky4744 Prusa is an overall amazing brand, top of the line printers :)
This is the proper video. all these upgrades actually have a large effect on your prints. great vid.
The amount of effort that goes into a video like this deserves a lot more love. Your insane man and I'm looking forward to future videos! Ill definitely be doing every one of these upgrades once I get this thing!
I'll*
The power supply fan cover is not for noise. It is to protect the fan from dust I suggest you keep it or else the fan can start wearing faster
Guys if you still struggle with glass bed adhesion just wash it under warm water with some soap. Nothing will degrease the surface like this simple solution now it's hard for me to release the prints from my bed.
Indeed. Use your clean hand to wash the surface with a drop of dish soap and hot water. Dry with paper towel and don't touch it. The next 5 prints will stick fast. I normally use the scraper to move any dust aside between prints.
I just got into 3d printing since last week when i very good friend of me gifted his ender 3 to me because he bought a bambulab printer, i printed a bency and a gameboyshell, sadly the extruder is leaking and the thermistor broke for some reason, replacement was cheap, this is a good hobby :)
Guess who's back ,back again
These videos are insanely well done... Music, editing, masterfully done... Congrats
instantly liked and rewatched 3 times
Your production quality is just... so... PERFECT. and the content? The writing? You're a talented maker and content creator man!
To cool the endoscope camera you could also print an extra mounting surface on the fancover/cameraholder to put a heatsink to lead the heat away and cool it elsewhere.
When does it stop being an Ender 3? I mean damn, you have replaced so much that it almost isn't even recognizable anymore. Great Stuff!
the noctua fan replacement is a genius idea, nocutua arguably makes the best fans on the market so this was a great idea.
This made me almost spit my drink, didn't expect the toilet :p
hahaha 😂
Creality you should include all this upgrades for your next printer, im too lazy to make all of them
@@EpicHardware Then we need to hire Scott to be our designer, haha
@@Creality3D The legend themself... When are we getting ender 3 v3?
Dude! so I got an Ender 3 Pro from Offerup for cheap. I'd been looking at several different 3D printers, and I'm really glad this deal came along and I got it. Being new to 3D printing I was a bit overwhelmed, but after watching your videos on upgrades, it helped me understand some of the trials and tribulations encountered in the world of 3D printing. Also, to challenge myself more, I've never had a Raspberry Pi, but seeing you install one on your printer has compelled me to get one and start learning how to integrate it!
So, once I can successfully print (this was not originally assembled by me, and I have beginners problems of leveling, and first layer not sticking), I'm totally looking forward to printing many of the upgraded you've shown in your video. I'll be sure to follow up with comments at a later date! I even got a leveling kit with the printer, but the probe is missing, so I'll have to see about getting another probe. :'( Thank you for your videos!!
Expected upgrades: Direct drive, longer z axis v slots, hot end upgrade, x and y belt tensioners, handle.
Don't forget the laser engraver!!
Psu control
Noctua Hotend Fans
I think the handle was already there. I agree with every thing else though!
Love the music aligned actions. You make art my friend.
Ender 3 is on sale at Newegg for $165 today only
Link?
@@tobiastho9639 I can’t seem to find it but it is usually only around 180+ shipping on crealitys website anyway
That's honestly not a good deal. They're very often $155-165 in various places. IMO you're shooting yourself in the foot with the Ender 3. The Ender 3 Pro has a quality Meanwell PSU for about $40 more, which is the price of the PSU by itself, plus it has a few other upgrades to boot. Even THEN you're shooting yourself in the foot usually because the Ender V2 usually you can find for $240-260, and it adds a silent stepper motor mainboard ($30-40 upgrade usually), belt tensioners, touch screen control ($30ish upgrade), and other upgrades. Almost anyone would appreciate at the very least a PSU that won't burn your house down that you can trust, your printer not sounding like it's trying to annoy you using a voice box (EEEEEEEEEEEYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH!!!!). Those two things alone make the Ender v2 worth the extra money for most people.
@@heroflying Wholeheartedly agree with 99% of your points, but the Ender v2 doesn't have touchscreen :(. Still uses the turn knob
@@peterahn8332 I have a pro. Thanks, didn't realize it wasn't a touchscreen.
Keep pimpimg that Ender with themed stuff like gaming, anime, movies, etc. And you have some serious virality potential my man.
Dual z, direct drive dual gear microswiss all metal hotend and better cooling duct.
I don't see double z axis. The power supply it is at the same place.
The video transitions in this video are just as good as the information in this video, excellent job!
I also have the Microswiss Direct Extruder and it's phenomenal! But as I got I the released a newer one with rails...
Scott did you also have Problems with just one Z-Axis-Motor? Now I upgraded to dual Z as my whole x Axis had some wobble and the first few layers got crazy bad. Dual Z eliminated this problem :)
PS:
Scott you need to get a Tft35 (BigteeTechTouchDispaly), its awesome.
Are you sure it wasn't just the eccentric but on the opposite rail?
Yes, also with perfectly adjusted excenter nuts there's still some play.
@@lukaswernetz3258 The Ender 3 suffers quite a lot from crooked gantries. It's a budget printer, after all.
you might also be able to do regular compressed air. i remember seeing a video where a guy put a valve in the bottom of one of those air cans, so he could fill it with air from his garage compressor.
"Isn't it gratuitous to keep upgrading this?"
No.
The printer is family now. And kudos on the music from Cameron!
Upgrading my 3d printer part 230:
My 3d printer can now defy gravity and I can now time travel with my 3d printer
i smell under rated channel with great potential.
I guess it’s called the enderscope now
Huge respect for swapping the air pressure method for water.
You should also have upgraded to a double x-axis now that you placed a direct drive. Printer looks good tho
The best upgrade is the direct drive extruder. Thanks for the video!
I'm skipping class for this
but it
comes out tomorrow
Class at 5 o'clock pm?
8:00 pst I have a class
same, 11 i have language but idc
@@player56978 he lives in a different time zone
Just watched all three parts. Really like the progression from 'printing parts for the sake of it' (not judging BTW - we all do it), to giving careful consideration to useful performance upgrades.
Just a couple of ideas for you. Every time you cut two wires, cut them at different lengths, that way you only need one piece of heat shrink and they won't ever be able to touch even if they move or fray. Also, use a large heat shrink tube piece over the buck converter instead of tape. When using those 0.1 inch connectors to make an inline connector to join two wires, use a three way one with the earth wire in the middle and leaving one end empty. That way you'll never plug them in backwards accidentally and even if you do, it doesn't do any damage.
Your original upgrades video helped so much when I first got my printer, much appreciated!
Scott, I see there is a lot of comments... here is another one :) You mentioned you loose on the height because of the way it is held. I have the MSDD as well and I place the wires in the front so it goes around the printer and not through it and I do not loose height. :)
I have the same direct drive I run the wires around the front instead of through the bar that way you don't lose any height
This production quality is on point.
holy shit best quality 3d printer content ever!! Keep up the great work my man
The music, the transitions, the content, idk how you don't have 10 mil subs already!
I just purchased my Ender machine. With these video's I know what to upgrade and it is fun and pleasable to watch. Great job
This is basically a MKBHD quality video for 3D printing. Respect.
Not only are Noctua fans insufficient for hotend cooling, buck converters are prone to frying mainboards...
Good luck!
Scott, very awesome video's. thank you for for teaching me new things and keep up the work. i cant wait for more videos and will buy you a coffee. thank you for being awesome.
Thanks Scott for the videos. I am going to do some more custom upgrades to my Ender 3X that you showed on your videos. I did the all metal dual gear extruder as one of my first upgrades. Workers great. One upgrade I did was I purchased 600mm dual channel extrusion to extend my build height, a second Z axis stepper motor kit ( included dual Z-axis motor controll cable) and two 600mm lead screws for the extended height.
At 12 min. you can use silicon oil that works very good to!
For your can of air if you dont want to use that try one of these:Vaper 19419 Red Spot Spray Non-Aerosol Sprayer
You can even add your own liquid if you want.
printed out the cover you linked for the tensioner cover , it fits the original creality stock front belt tension assembly but does not fit the creality made adjustable front assembly, doing some research looks to be a couple style of adjusters from creality some changes as they progressed , just finished making a raw 3d shape going to make it to see if it fits and has clearance will let you know
Could you do a short video about all the extra tool kits you keep around to use with your prints, or link in the comments like the set of machine screws or the other inserts you add?
all the kits are linked in the video description under "⚙ Tools and Stuff ⚙ "
if i missed anything, let me know!
I will keep supporting u man..love to see your channel grow..love from Malaysia✌🏻
Would be sick to see an updated video with everything you kept / still recommend doing after all the tweaks and changes.
You make some insanely good videos and your editing skills are seriously impressive. I however would like to compliment your ability to accept constructive criticism and changing your behaviour, that is admirable! Great job!
Thanks for your videos. My main hobby is trains, shooting videos of trains during the week with just an iPhone but on the weekends or while on vacation with my drones. So I have a good bit of money tied up in that hobby but like most train enthusiasts I also have a model railroad in my basement. Not the usual HO scale which has an almost endless supply for models and parts available but the much larger and more realistic looking O scale, not to be confused with O gauge. O gauge is the toy scale with 3 rails that was designed to handle tight unrealistic curves. O scale is as the name implies "scaled" properly. It's two rail and the curves are quite large, taking up a lot of basement space. Unfortunately O scale is very limited in what models are available. There are only a couple manufacturers of O scale locomotives and rolling stock. And they usually only release a handful of new models a year. So if you want a specific piece of rolling stock from say 1972, well sorry, they last made that piece 6 years ago. It's sold out and they won't be making it again until? Who knows? So I have been considering getting into 3d printing. I know when it comes to making 3d models you can see the print lines. Less on flat pieces and more on angled pieces. Most of the pieces I would like to print are flat or mostly flat. I would love to be able to print an entire hopper car. Then just add the metal parts. Decals in O scale are also hard to find. So I have also been looking into multi color printers. Fortunately the main color besides black is white so if it was possible to print the car body in black and finish with white raised lettering and logos that would be super. So I'm still investigating what is possible and how much it will cost. Your video was very informative on how the printer can be modified and also what quality the pieces are printed in. Thanks for making this video!
Hey man original designer of the Satsana duct here 👋Excellent video! Keep it up 👍
I suggest you move from cigarette lighters to gas torch.
There are lots of them different, I've had cheap noname form China. I have tried fancy one from kitchen supply store. Both where working, the expensive lasted longer. My current is Dremel and it is great.
Production value is on point bruh, keep up that good good ish 💯💯
Quality of this video is 11/10
Top notch
Newb here and these all the upgrades I’ve been wanting to see happen. Great videos. Music and editing on point.
I don't know why I can't stop watching your channel when I am working.
You get a like just for the Edgar Wright-esque skips and cuts. Very informative, very well explained, entertaining... surely it was a ton of work. Keep it up, i'm subbed.
i come back to this comment from time to time because it makes me so happy. edgar wright is one of my biggest inspirations when it comes to editing haha thanks for the kind words, András.