I've been working with resins for over 3 decades. They do work on styrofoam. BUT a mixture of 1:1 of Modpodge and acrylic paint is cheaper and will hold up better. You can recoat within minutes because it dries so fast. After a few layers, it becomes hard and durable. I know. It sounds silly. I thought the same. Until i tried it.
@@ds74878 I know the type of styrofoam. It has the larger cells. It's the cheapest stuff and the hardest to work with too. I like to use the pink stuff for buildings. It has a tighter cell formation and easier to work with. As for covering those holes, it takes SEVERAL coats before you can see good results. But, the more coats added, the harder the surface. ;)
@@ds74878 , I'm sorry for the slow response. I don't know why, but I never saw this comment until today. @Mraadesign is correct. The only thing I would add is that you could sand it with a sanding block afterwards to take off more of the bumps. This would take less coats. I'm sure the response is too late now, but I'm going to leave it anyway in case anyone else runs across this thread.
Sir, can you use it with painted art as strong coating? Will it be opaque white to block the painting or it is transparent? Glossy or matte output? Thanks for answering 😊
@@ianrena1 , I would strongly discourage you from doing that. This resin yellows over time. High quality clear acrylic medium is a good way to seal an acrylic painting, but if you are looking for a hard glassy surface, there are other high quality resins that would work better. I would recommend some, but I do not use resins like that, so I would be speaking from ignorance. Good luck, brother.
EXCELLENT VIDEO... Thank you for sharing... Question: Who are you talking to when you are filming yourself? Are you talking to someone off camera? Or are you watching at yourself while you film and not into the Lens... Please LOOK into the Lens of the Camera so we FEEL you are talking to us, your audience. Thank you for sharing this great video.
I'll save out a test piece and see what this does over time. I just did a video response to another comment using this epoxy as glue. I can use a piece of that. I've made a lot of paintings with it, but I always cover them with paint, so I don't know how much it yellows or doesn't.
After applying the Epsilon mix and making the surface hard and durable, how would I go about applying a plaster/paint mix? I worry because the result is so smooth like glass, the plaster mix would never stick and crackle right off. I’m trying to make the final finish a matt, sand like finish with acrylic paint. Thoughts? Would love to message you with some picture references to explain what I mean 🥺
I just give it a once over with sandpaper. If I have a lot of ground to cover, like the painting in the video, I use a dremel tool with an abrasive attachment to give it a tooth really quickly.
That’s why you never deposit in two separate containers. Unless it’s too fast cure when you need to pigment it. Otherwise chuck it move in the mixing cup and mix and poor. No nasty waiting for it to drain. No scraping with your fingers. Brrttt
Sure, I would be interested in knowing myself. I can do that. I can tell you right away that it will take more punishment than regular foam, but you still can't get reckless with it. I'll try different weights at different heights with different amounts of layers.
I want to make a hard shiny blue coating on my styrofoam art. What kind of coloring do i use? And is the epoxy you use in this video shiny when it dries?
It is glossy when it dries, but it does seem to yellow over time. I haven't tried mixing pigments in it. The epoxy can be spray-painted with glossy blue paint. You just have to make sure you get good coverage so that the paint doesn't leak to the foam.
Depending on what you're making, how much action it's going to see, and how often you'll use the epoxy, there might be a cheaper option. I use it frequently, and the stuff I make typically needs to take a lot of abuse, so it only cost me a dollar or so per project, and saves me a ton of heart ache.
Yeah, you can use just about anything. I would recommend taking some fine sandpaper and putting a little bit of a tooth on it first, because the resin dries smooth as glass. I usually paint it the same way I do most of my paintings. Oil paint with an acrylic under painting. I hope this helps.
Hello, is this strong enough to press plywood. I'm planning to make a skateboard mold using styrofoam? Is this strong enough to not break when using pressing force?
Matthew, I haven't tried it on wood yet, but my initial guess is no. The material is pretty strong and durable in its proper application, but the bond strength doesn't seem to be on the same level as a wood glue. Also, the material is somewhat ridged, but also a little flexible. This makes it really good for Styrofoam props or art. If it gets bumped or dropped it does have some give to it. I will try it out and let you know.
Most epoxies are okay, but I don't know about every resin. This smooth on product is essentially an epoxy resin. It is just formulated for durability. It's fairly hard, but it is soft enough to take a drop. I'm almost done with a video of a durability test for this particular resin. I would say that your resin is probably safe, but if you are worried about it you can always coat the Styrofoam in acrylic paint or mod podge to seal it first.
The resin normally used isn’t epoxy resin but polyester resin. The poly resin will dissolve styrofoam which is why you would want to use epoxy instead. If you are determined to use poly resin, you’ll need to protect the foam with something like packing tape so the resin doesn’t make contact with the foam.
I think you definitely can, but it will give you a slightly different outcome. When I have coated things with polyurethane in the past, they have felt softer and more flexible than the smooth-on. When the smooth-on is mixed correctly, it will be pretty hard, but just flexible enough to take normal blows/wear and tear. However, I believe they make polyurethane with a variety of different consistencies. Also, be careful not to get a polyurethane that has a thinner in it that melts the foam. I would recommend experimenting and seeing what works for your particular needs. Be sure to sand either of these before painting over them, so that the smooth surface will have a tooth for the paint to hold on to. Another really cheap option is coating foam with plaster. Good luck.
You are my kind of artist! Taking trash and turn it into treasure - it is doing the right thing on so many levels. Good job!!!
Thank you. It's always nice to see someone that appreciates what you're doing.
If you get a small scale that measures grams....you can pour and mix both in the same container.
I've been working with resins for over 3 decades. They do work on styrofoam. BUT a mixture of 1:1 of Modpodge and acrylic paint is cheaper and will hold up better. You can recoat within minutes because it dries so fast. After a few layers, it becomes hard and durable. I know. It sounds silly. I thought the same. Until i tried it.
I tried this but the styrofoam holes are still visible. How many coats before it's smooth? 😊
@@ds74878 I know the type of styrofoam. It has the larger cells. It's the cheapest stuff and the hardest to work with too. I like to use the pink stuff for buildings. It has a tighter cell formation and easier to work with. As for covering those holes, it takes SEVERAL coats before you can see good results. But, the more coats added, the harder the surface. ;)
@@MRaadesign , exactly right. I don't know why I'm just now seeing this comment thread.
@@ds74878 , I'm sorry for the slow response. I don't know why, but I never saw this comment until today. @Mraadesign is correct. The only thing I would add is that you could sand it with a sanding block afterwards to take off more of the bumps. This would take less coats. I'm sure the response is too late now, but I'm going to leave it anyway in case anyone else runs across this thread.
@@MrJON3S No worries.
💚💚💚💚
Sir, can you use it with painted art as strong coating? Will it be opaque white to block the painting or it is transparent? Glossy or matte output?
Thanks for answering 😊
@@ianrena1 , I would strongly discourage you from doing that. This resin yellows over time. High quality clear acrylic medium is a good way to seal an acrylic painting, but if you are looking for a hard glassy surface, there are other high quality resins that would work better. I would recommend some, but I do not use resins like that, so I would be speaking from ignorance. Good luck, brother.
EXCELLENT VIDEO... Thank you for sharing...
Question:
Who are you talking to when you are filming yourself?
Are you talking to someone off camera?
Or are you watching at yourself while you film and not into the Lens...
Please LOOK into the Lens of the Camera so we FEEL you are talking to us, your audience.
Thank you for sharing this great video.
🤣Thanks and thanks for the advice. I'm not a film maker and I'm very new to this. I'll give it a shot. I'm just out here trying to learn.
Yes, but I have yet to find an epoxy that does not yellow with time. I have also found that it will haze if moisture gets behind it.
I'll save out a test piece and see what this does over time. I just did a video response to another comment using this epoxy as glue. I can use a piece of that. I've made a lot of paintings with it, but I always cover them with paint, so I don't know how much it yellows or doesn't.
After applying the Epsilon mix and making the surface hard and durable, how would I go about applying a plaster/paint mix? I worry because the result is so smooth like glass, the plaster mix would never stick and crackle right off. I’m trying to make the final finish a matt, sand like finish with acrylic paint. Thoughts? Would love to message you with some picture references to explain what I mean 🥺
I just give it a once over with sandpaper. If I have a lot of ground to cover, like the painting in the video, I use a dremel tool with an abrasive attachment to give it a tooth really quickly.
That’s why you never deposit in two separate containers. Unless it’s too fast cure when you need to pigment it. Otherwise chuck it move in the mixing cup and mix and poor. No nasty waiting for it to drain. No scraping with your fingers. Brrttt
im looking at the possibility for a very large rc model... any chance you could do a durability test? drop, and maybe drop something heavy on some?
Sure, I would be interested in knowing myself. I can do that. I can tell you right away that it will take more punishment than regular foam, but you still can't get reckless with it. I'll try different weights at different heights with different amounts of layers.
@@MrJON3S thank you… you have no idea how much it would help this project…
I want to make a hard shiny blue coating on my styrofoam art. What kind of coloring do i use? And is the epoxy you use in this video shiny when it dries?
It is glossy when it dries, but it does seem to yellow over time. I haven't tried mixing pigments in it. The epoxy can be spray-painted with glossy blue paint. You just have to make sure you get good coverage so that the paint doesn't leak to the foam.
Depending on what you're making, how much action it's going to see, and how often you'll use the epoxy, there might be a cheaper option.
I use it frequently, and the stuff I make typically needs to take a lot of abuse, so it only cost me a dollar or so per project, and saves me a ton of heart ache.
Thanks lots
Glad to help.
Can you use any kind of paint over that hard coat resin? Or does it need to not be aerosol or oil based?
Yeah, you can use just about anything. I would recommend taking some fine sandpaper and putting a little bit of a tooth on it first, because the resin dries smooth as glass. I usually paint it the same way I do most of my paintings. Oil paint with an acrylic under painting. I hope this helps.
Could you comment on active working time during the application. Thank you.
Sorry about that. It has a 20-minute pot life. I usually don't think about it, because it never takes me over 7 minutes to apply it.
Hello, is this strong enough to press plywood. I'm planning to make a skateboard mold using styrofoam? Is this strong enough to not break when using pressing force?
Matthew, I haven't tried it on wood yet, but my initial guess is no. The material is pretty strong and durable in its proper application, but the bond strength doesn't seem to be on the same level as a wood glue. Also, the material is somewhat ridged, but also a little flexible. This makes it really good for Styrofoam props or art. If it gets bumped or dropped it does have some give to it. I will try it out and let you know.
@@MrJON3S thanks man, I always apreciate the replies. Goodluck
th-cam.com/video/8SbPFql-fn0/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=JeremyJones
That is the video where I finally finished testing this stuff as glue.
Thanks this it really interesting can you use any Epoxy to do this?
Most epoxies are okay, but I don't know about every resin. This smooth on product is essentially an epoxy resin. It is just formulated for durability. It's fairly hard, but it is soft enough to take a drop. I'm almost done with a video of a durability test for this particular resin. I would say that your resin is probably safe, but if you are worried about it you can always coat the Styrofoam in acrylic paint or mod podge to seal it first.
The mixing only requires ONE pot and a *scale*, have you figured that out yet?
could i use fibreglass resin?
I can't 100% guarantee this but it is my understanding that fiberglass resin usually has solvents in it that will melt the foam.
The resin normally used isn’t epoxy resin but polyester resin. The poly resin will dissolve styrofoam which is why you would want to use epoxy instead. If you are determined to use poly resin, you’ll need to protect the foam with something like packing tape so the resin doesn’t make contact with the foam.
Is this hard enough to put it through a vacuum former?
Yes. Also, the more coats you put, the harder it gets. I'd say one thick coat or two thin coats would be plenty strong enough.
can you use this after you have painted?
I wouldn't. It yellows overtime.
@@MrJON3S thank you
Your name should be Mr. Time pass
I've been called worse
@@MrJON3S 🤣🤣
why not just slather on some thick polyurethane?
I think you definitely can, but it will give you a slightly different outcome. When I have coated things with polyurethane in the past, they have felt softer and more flexible than the smooth-on. When the smooth-on is mixed correctly, it will be pretty hard, but just flexible enough to take normal blows/wear and tear. However, I believe they make polyurethane with a variety of different consistencies. Also, be careful not to get a polyurethane that has a thinner in it that melts the foam. I would recommend experimenting and seeing what works for your particular needs. Be sure to sand either of these before painting over them, so that the smooth surface will have a tooth for the paint to hold on to. Another really cheap option is coating foam with plaster. Good luck.
I have used Latex Paint and then Water Based Polyurethane and it is really nice...