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Thank you. I appreciated it and I'm glad it helped someone. It was probably one of my actual students playing with me. They comment from time to time. We like to have fun in my classes. However, the internet has all types.

Thank you

@@ianrena1 , I would strongly discourage you from doing that. This resin yellows over time. High quality clear acrylic medium is a good way to seal an acrylic painting, but if you are looking for a hard glassy surface, there are other high quality resins that would work better. I would recommend some, but I do not use resins like that, so I would be speaking from ignorance. Good luck, brother.

On the safety data sheet, it says it contains "Polyurethane prepolymers, polymeric diisocyanate, isobutane, methyl ether, and propane." So yes, in a way. Though I believe there are a million different types of polyurethane foam.

I'll have to take your word for it. I never owned the original.

@@MrJON3S me too. Buy one now is VERY expensive!

I wouldn't. It yellows overtime.

@@MrJON3S thank you

Sorry about that. It has a 20-minute pot life. I usually don't think about it, because it never takes me over 7 minutes to apply it.

Thank you. I'm glad as well. The more the merrier.

I just give it a once over with sandpaper. If I have a lot of ground to cover, like the painting in the video, I use a dremel tool with an abrasive attachment to give it a tooth really quickly.

Thank you. I usually just use one coat. Drying time depends on what you mix in it. Most of the time you can handle it in a day. I usually let it go over night.

It is glossy when it dries, but it does seem to yellow over time. I haven't tried mixing pigments in it. The epoxy can be spray-painted with glossy blue paint. You just have to make sure you get good coverage so that the paint doesn't leak to the foam.

Depending on what you're making, how much action it's going to see, and how often you'll use the epoxy, there might be a cheaper option. I use it frequently, and the stuff I make typically needs to take a lot of abuse, so it only cost me a dollar or so per project, and saves me a ton of heart ache.

Yes. Also, the more coats you put, the harder it gets. I'd say one thick coat or two thin coats would be plenty strong enough.

Thank you. I will take that as a compliment. However, I don't think I would sell unlicensed Nintendo products. They have been known to make examples out of people. 🤣

Thanks. It's good to hear encouragement.

Thank you for the complement and the encouragement. It is always nice to know that someone appreciates your work.

@@MrJON3S Anytime😁

I figured that Majora's Mask was a good game. It has a large following after all. I like the dark and bizzare imagery of the game, but the idea of resetting put me off. I'm sure I will eventually play it, and I am sure I will eventually really enjoy it. The idea of switching masks is an interesting game play mechanism and a great metaphor. It just seems, on the surface, to lack a lot of the things that appealed to me about the other games. One of the things that I like about Zelda is the collecting. Something about collecting the items and abilities really appeals to my nature for some reason. I actually do that in real life. I cherish each new tool that I get that empowers me to be more creative and equips me to achieve more. Also, Zelda games have always, largely, been kind of open world. Even before that was a thing. Some more so than others. The wandering and exploring without a time limit has also always greatly appealed to my personal nature and is also something that makes itself manifest in my real life.

Thanks. It was definitely fun to make. It's sitting over my fireplace right now

@@MrJON3S, why not make the fixed version? I mean, same sword model but with fuse marks or something.

@@Goobrt420 That's an awesome idea. I'm almost finished making the Master Sword from Breath of the Wild.

Those hands are ready to grab the Master Sword. Better make sure you have at least 13 hearts first...

@@MrJON3S true 🫳🫳🫳🗿

I tripped

That's the one. I started on it before the game released. I took a break for a while, and now I'm going to finish it.

😳

What? This old thing? J/k. Thank you.

I can relate

About 5 students to a can is a safe estimate. 6 or 7 students can probably use the same can, but you don't want to get caught empty handed.

Sorry. I assumed you were a teacher, but now that I think about it, you might have been asking for your own project. It is hard to say, because I was using the same cans as my students, and they were mixed up from time to time. I would say that I didn't even finish one can for every one of the sculptures featured in the video combined. This stuff goes a long way, because of how it expands. If you are going to be doing this professionally, or on a large scale, smooth-on makes a product for this type of thing. It might be more cost effective in the end.

​@Jeremy Jones thank you so much! Now I know if I do teach this as a lesson plan. For now it's just for installation I am working on so the larger ones will definitely work. Thanks for your help!

If I remember correctly, I did acrylic. A light sanding will help to give it a tooth, because this foam is really smooth and the paint doesn't want to stick. Multiple, thick layers seem to help as well. I still have several of them, and they still look new. It's not school friendly, but you could also use spray primer.

Thank you. I'm a work in progress.

Waah

Thank you. It's always nice to see someone that appreciates what you're doing.

🤣Thanks and thanks for the advice. I'm not a film maker and I'm very new to this. I'll give it a shot. I'm just out here trying to learn.

I tried this but the styrofoam holes are still visible. How many coats before it's smooth? 😊

@@ds74878 I know the type of styrofoam. It has the larger cells. It's the cheapest stuff and the hardest to work with too. I like to use the pink stuff for buildings. It has a tighter cell formation and easier to work with. As for covering those holes, it takes SEVERAL coats before you can see good results. But, the more coats added, the harder the surface. ;)

@@MRaadesign , exactly right. I don't know why I'm just now seeing this comment thread.

@@ds74878 , I'm sorry for the slow response. I don't know why, but I never saw this comment until today. @Mraadesign is correct. The only thing I would add is that you could sand it with a sanding block afterwards to take off more of the bumps. This would take less coats. I'm sure the response is too late now, but I'm going to leave it anyway in case anyone else runs across this thread.

@@MrJON3S No worries.

Most epoxies are okay, but I don't know about every resin. This smooth on product is essentially an epoxy resin. It is just formulated for durability. It's fairly hard, but it is soft enough to take a drop. I'm almost done with a video of a durability test for this particular resin. I would say that your resin is probably safe, but if you are worried about it you can always coat the Styrofoam in acrylic paint or mod podge to seal it first.

I've been called worse

@@MrJON3S 🤣🤣

I can't 100% guarantee this but it is my understanding that fiberglass resin usually has solvents in it that will melt the foam.

The resin normally used isn’t epoxy resin but polyester resin. The poly resin will dissolve styrofoam which is why you would want to use epoxy instead. If you are determined to use poly resin, you’ll need to protect the foam with something like packing tape so the resin doesn’t make contact with the foam.

What are those?

@@MrJON3S twinkle toes

Sure, I would be interested in knowing myself. I can do that. I can tell you right away that it will take more punishment than regular foam, but you still can't get reckless with it. I'll try different weights at different heights with different amounts of layers.

@@MrJON3S thank you… you have no idea how much it would help this project…