Chris I have seen that in Walmart for years now. I never bought it. I was not ready to try everything I come across in a store. But after watching this I will be using this regularly now on any foamy I want to spray paint. This is the answer to my always wondering where to get a good silver paint on my foam. The best silvers I found eat foam. Not now. I just happen to be rebuilding my USCG Hu-16 Albatross. I need a couple coats on the V bottom. so I can do a repaint. This will help here. Many more uses also. Great expose' you have done here helping everyone. Thanks,
THANK YOU ! Very interesting and useful ! Since valsa is porous znd low in tensile strength, would you recommed using MOD PODG on a balsa llane hdck or even a wood boat hull ?
We used Mod Podge in Art College for a lot of interesting uses, it's fort all intents and purposes the same thing as Elmer's Glue... a bit thinner but either of them can be thinned with water and mixed with Acrylic paints for some interesting posabilities
I love that stuff. I use two coats of mod podge, epoxy primer, paint then K2 two part clear coat and it’s as hard as fiber glass... And if/ when you snap a wing or elevator you can just re do your repair at the seam.
You are soo inspiring. I come from to old school way of building. Been out of it for a long time but now you have inspired me to build a citation x using your techniques. Keep up the great work. You are the man.
This sure sounds like the PVA adhesive that we use a lot of in the UK. It is sold under various names here, one being called "BaslaLoc" which is sometimes painted onto the bare wood of a model before being covered with Oracover or Solartex. That is water based and has little or no smell and is not toxic.
This product is formulated to create a hard-shell over whatever surface you apply it to Anthony, This is also water based and is Non-toxic and dries in around an hour.
Amazing ! It exist here in France on Amazon, there are other versions of Mod Podge but I don't see the "pink" one... This just opened the door to my first PSS homebuild. thanks !
Foam is melting because of the aerosol from the paint. If you spray to close its the aerosol that will eat almost all foam. Spray 12 inches away and foam won’t melt. Regardless if it’s bare or Mod podge.
Thanks for an informative video. I've been looking for something to put on my Polaris Ultra foam seaplane, short of fiberglassing it, this may be just the thing! Thanks for sharing.
Definitely appreciate this video and passing on this great crafting knowledge. I will most definitely give this product a try. It looks like an excellent product indeed for our model aircraft hobby.
I saw this video and thought I'd give it a try. Modge Podge on wings and polycrylic fuselage. I put three coats of Modge Podge on and sanded with 340 before, between and after. I then sprayed a white primer and started applying paint details with delicate green tape. The Modge Podge wings were tough to sand out because the streaky uneven finish it leaves but I got there. The problem I had was in pulling the tape for paint trim, the Modge Podge would separate from the EPO (not break). The loose ares couldn't stay so I tried sanding which basically starts a hole in the loose Modge Podge and then big ares separate completely leaving a complete mess. The fuselage came out fine. I ended up getting new wings rather than work to fix that weak foundation.
@@billcullen616 Based on your feedback, I got a better idea for the wings then. Apply first a coat or two of polycrilic, sand the last coat with 320 or 400 sandpaper, then apply a coat or two of ModPodge. I believe this will solve the "peeling" problem. I love experimenting with "what if" scenarios. Thank you for your feedback.
Could you apply this product with a foam brush so you can avoid the many "streaks" a regular brush leaves ? Unless of course this is no concern if this product has great leveling properties. Thank you again for your time.
Forgive me if the following is a silly question, but I wonder if there is a difference between applying this Mod Podge hard-coat product, versus, a thinned coat of wood glue ( like the Titebond II which is also water proof ). Would very much appreciate your feedback. Either way, I will give this product a try and do my own tests but I wanted to know if you had an answer to my question. Thank you very much in advance for your time.
I know this is an older question, but it is my understanding that Titebond I and II can be painted over once it has dried. I have read that once Titebond III has cured, it will not bond to itself, if another layer is applied. I would assume, if true, paint may not bond well to cured Titebond III as well.
Ok - tricky question - at the 14:27" mark when you hold the canopy after the first coat has dried, I see a lot of tiny imperfections on the surface ( assuming of course I want to create a perfectly glass smooth surface ) so my question to you is this: would you rather fill and sand the canopy first with some light spackling compound to achieve a glass smooth surface and then apply a coat or two of the Mod Podge hard shell or you follow a different sequence ? Thank you for your time again.
I have been using Modge Podge OUT DOOR type. I may have gotten an old bottle but mine was THICK, and I mean thick! I had to thin it down to get it to work. I used it over my repaired areas and can say it does work. I havent done any durability testing on it yet. When I do, I will make a video on it. I did notice it is very shiny. I plan on testing it many different ways so You are definitely on to something. Some foam planes are easily damaged. My concern is brush marks. No one with a highly detailed plane is going to want to see brush strokes or shiny surfaces. I have thinned Modge Podge down and used it, it still works well.
awesome! gonna buy a bottle of that and try to cast my new wing with it and put a nice spray paint to it :P UPDATE: Mod Podge just arrived, i just applied the first layer and while its curing i noticed its billdung "blind spots" , its crawling away on some places as it wont bond there ?! I cleaned the foam before applying it. As i noticed it i started ti grind the other parts with sandpaper to rough up the surface , it seems to help
Hello I have a question that I hope you might be able to answer I just purchased a parrot Disco it has black foam and I was curious if if this would work on the plane as a protective coat? Thank you for your time
@@F3HDemonDriver1 that brings up another question after using it can I clear coat with spray paint to make it waterproof? And thank you so much for responding back to me
you should know that you can prime foam with any oil base paint or even polyurethane. these oil base or paint thinner base coatings do not dissolve foam. it's the acetone etc. in spray paints that does the damage We stripped the paint off of an Arrow Corsair using packing tape (pulls the paint right off) and coated it with 'minwax wipe on poly' as a hard primer and painted it with oil based semi-gloss or you can use any spray paint on the poly primer
Sir, I’m Konrad from South Africa and starting of with a new hobby, RC. Can you get this Mod Podge also in clear and paint it over the decorative sticker of the plane. Thanks for answering. Regards
For foam shell you can use any PVA Polyvinyl acetate glue. After drying it will create shell to protect foam from paint chemicals. For decal covering it's not good because it will yellowish by the time.
Future acrylic floor finish is self leveling and works great as a sealer on model planes, foam projects. I usually use Minwax waterbase sealer also. I didnt hear you say it is fuel safe, meaning you could use a nitro fuel around it. I have clear cast, but never used it for a model, other than water scenes. If it locks the foam down for any type of paint, it may work for protection of foam if you paint it. Nitro fuel if it has gone bad, eats paint reguardless. I coated my Waco electric RC plane and those products do save the finish on a plane with a weak paint job. These products do add some weight to the plane but not much. Out side, I never use a mask, just spray so all product goes downwind. Always start spraying paint off the product, spray long ways across the product and carry past the project. There are videos out there that teach proper paint techniques. Its not the paint that generally eats the paint, its the solvents. if you keep your distance over 4 inches, you should be good. Modge podge does leave brush strokes, where as minwax doesnt, it is self leveling, as is future floor finish. You can even coat canopys and any clear windows with future and it wont hurt the plastics.
I'm not sure if its fuel safe, but fewer and fewer people Fly Gas Or Glow nowadays, withing 5 years even less people will be using internal combustion engines in RC.
RC DemonDriver Dont count on it. There is a resergence comming. I am investing in the Engines. I recommend going on E- Bay and see how long an RC Nitro engine lasts as far as bidding. They are selling like hot cakes. Younger guys are starting to rediscover them.
RC Hobbyist Extreme, Thanks, I was thinking about using Minwax. You can also find spray cans of other water base clear coats that would work I would think. One of my first 3 ch. foam planes I used clear packing tape, and it looked OK.
River Minwax waterbased sealer is self leveling and does the same job as does future floor sealer, you can get at the dollar store and you can use it on canopys. As an old school person, I can say it works great on model car windshields too.
this is great I have a stinger 64 and the nose section is so thin one bad hit to the nose and it brakes the nose off. I'm going to try this product and see how it works.
Mike I would recommend this on all nose cones. It does leave a shine, however, you can get a waterbased dull coat finish to apply over the modge podge that should knock down the shine. Look for Model Masters Dull coat in the paint section of your local hobby shop. Make sure you test a small area first.
Hi DD, I am a new subscriber to your channel, and recently came across you Mod Podge video... a couple of questions regarding the product. Looking on Amazon, there appears to be two Mod Podge formulas available Mod Podge Waterbase Sealer, Glue and Finish (16-Ounce), CS15063 Hard Coat and Mod Podge Hard Coat for Furniture, 8-Ounce (CS11245) The former description fits..., but the product number differs for what is shown in your video, and the later matches the product number but differs as being for furniture? Thanks for your time in clarifying this issue...
Hi James, its possible they changed the product code, but I find the easiest way to find this product is simply look for the one with the "dark Purple" label Mod Podge.
wonder if I could take the paper off my Flitetest dollar tree foam builds, and add 2 layers of this? And hopefully it will be waterproof after painting with oil based spray paint, I want to build a new FT sea otter to fly off water in the spring
Tom Heetderks That paper is also a structural part of the foam. Use minwax water based sealer instead. Its self leveling and works great on the foam board. I use it all the time on all my foamys. Oh, future floor finish does the same thing. You can get it at the dollar store.
yeah, I've been using the oil based minwax spray and it really does work nice! I was thinking maybe it would be ok to remove one side of the paper, but it probably would weaken things a bit. Never heard of using future floor finish..is it a long term waterproofing solution?
Tom Heetderks Guys in the modelling world have been using it for a while now. Minwax is a sealant used in the wood working industry. I used it on all my kitchen cabinets. It is very water proof. Even outside. Future floor finish is an acrylic floor finish that also seals and water proofs. Its self levelling, meaning you brush it on and it leaves no brush marks at all
she's fully repaired and I have made new adjustments to her CG and have built an Orion chuck glider to test my theories on, so I would look for more flight attempts this spring or summer.
Wearing a paint long sleeve coverall and gloves is a good idea using spray paint. Your absorbing the paint chemicals and solvents just like breathing it. We all want you healthy too. Making years of very educational videos .
Thanks for awesome video Chris, I was wondering, if I use it on the paper of dollar tree foam builds, will it saturate in and help keep the paper on? I was thinking of trying that, and then sealing with something waterproof (poly acrylic perhaps) for a second FT sea otter build. Time to try it with a quick mock up I guess..
You can vac-form over bare styrofoam if you make one pull over the other. Yes, it picks up a slight texture and you have to cut whatever of the first pull that will interfere with the second. But-- the second pull smooths out the surface. Mod Podge is pretty cool stuff. I had not really paid attention to the other varieties. Which is unlike me but I usually shop like a driven man. And, now I know!
Yeah, the first form melts some of the foam. That's why you do it one on top of the other-- the first one acts as a barrier. The second one comes out just fine. Works great.
Someone told me this takes a month to harden properly. Is this true as I really need max 1 week drying time for my projects. I don't want to send out to customers and find that it still hasn't dried out.
Hi Jermaine, 737-300 sounds Good, Make sure you have atleast 2 coats of Mod-pogde down on your surface then find some testors or Tamiya Primer paint then add a coat of primer then add your Glossy Paint.
Rats... Just returned the paper version i bought yesterday... bought the standard red label on today... can that be used at all?... I only found the hard shell vesion at Hobby Lobby... wally didnt have it
Well Dave, There are Many painting techniques, One guy says this is the right way, one guy says that's right or that's wrong, to me it's like your Pool stroke or Golf swing . . . .whatever gets the job done and the finial result.
I have been thinking about putting on polyacrylic coating on some painted planes. Going to home depot soon and will be building a freewing B17 so I def want to protect it. This will be good to use in conjunction to makes planes last years.
It's a very easy product to use as you saw in this video, another way to also give your RC planes long Life is to keep them away from Kids under 7, Dogs, and angry wives & girlfriends LOL.
RCWeaven FPV Use minwax waterbased sealer. It is self leveling and leaves no brush strokes. I use sponge brushes. You can use it on canopys too. I use it on ALL my RC planes. It makes the foam stronger, less likely to get scratched, chipped and dent proof. I have been using it for years. clean up is soap and water.
RC DemonDriver How is the flow as far as finish? can you airbrush it? Im not arguing the use. I plan on testing the two and doing a video. I really want to put them to the test as far as durability. I dont land very gracefully sometimes, my planes get scoffed up. Most paints on RC foam planes chip, scratch and wear horribly. If we can seal the finish right from the box, things will stay nicer longer. I think anything we can use that saves the finish will help. I think making a video and testing sealers would be a great idea. As I have time and extra planes, I think I will give it a shot. Everyone benifits from our videos. See mine at RC Hobbyist Extreme on You- Tube. I cover several cost saving things as well as starting a Nitro Plane restore.
Great video thanks! Will try that instead of water based polyurethane. Will this be thinned and used to apply on fiberglass cloth? Looking forward to more of your new build or rebuild!
You can thin it with water, you can also use it to laminate fiberglass but in that case I would use it straight out of the bottle without thinning it out. Thankyou Edwen!
edwen303 You can use future floor finish also from the dollar store. It is self leveling and car modellers use it on their windshields to make the plastics clearer looking, so it can be used right over canopys.
edwen303 Its an acrylic, it shouldn't bother anything. As with anything you use,paints,glues,epoxys,always try a small amount in an area that is not noticeable before doing the whole project. Pretty much any product you use states that right on the package. I use acrylic paints and use future in a spray gun and have never had an issue with yellowing.
Yes, But just remember the more coats you add to your Parr-Disco the heavier it will get, but yes with enough Mod Podge is will kelp it become more damage resistant.
I was looking for something to harden a Woof Woof doll that I made from the Munsters. The part of the body with no fur needed a hardener, as the fingers would split. Everyone seems to call the product “Modge Podge”. Even I used to do that. Don’t allow the people who say mean things to you about it bother you. I think the company needs to rename it!!! Lol
No you can paint right over the Mod Podge and sand it but make sure you have 2 coats and don't sand away any areas of the Mod Podge or it wont protect the foam from the paint.
xKmotx it only takes a tiny amount of water to thin it down, I have sprayed it with a 2mm nozzle gravity feed gun, but theres a trick to stop it from blotching and orange peeling, pre clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol then take a soft microfibre cloth, dampen it with an even thinner mix of mod podge (pva) and scrub the surface with it, leaving very little behind but basically pre wetting the surface like a prime. let it dry 15 minutes then spray, you will get a good wet glassy coat with excellent adhesion.
Just curious if you send between coats? If so, wet or dry? I did a bare pnp yesterday; wet sanded today, and the mod podge just peeled right of, leaving a huge mess! Thanks! John
I think it is PVA glue you are describing thick white and water-soluble but when it goes off it leaves a thin skin good as a wood glue brick glue, in fact, any porous surface glue we use it in the building industry in the UK very cheap a gallon will cost you about £5.00
This product is sold as a "Hard-shell" coating as its called right on the label and it does just that Bob, its not really the same as white glue although there are some similarities.
rc plane companies should impliment methodes simular to this during the manufacturing process ' considering the price they charge ' seriously just common sense over greed Can this product also be thinned to apply with spray or putty gun for no brush marks
i don't know what's going on with these Mod Podge products but because there are so many and you never actually gave a product number I had to watch both of your Mod Podge videos multiple times at 1080p while going .25 speed through all the frames where you showed and it still took me forever to decipher the Mod Podge product number on the bottle label (CS11245). ironically the only Mod Podge CS11245 i can find is "Mod Podge Hard Coat for Furniture" which has a different label that no where says " Waterbase Sealer, Glue and Finish", the Mod Podge i can find with the exact same wording on the label as yours has a different product number (CS15063) in the upper corner so i am totally lost as to which Mod Podge product to get!!!
ok but is it purple label CS11245? www.amazon.com/Mod-Podge-Furniture-8-Ounce-CS11245/dp/B00168579E/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1530120063&sr=1-3&refinements=p_89%3AMod+Podge&dpID=41NTH1yOnkL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch or purple label CS15063? www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI1U5NQ/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bs5TB_cr_x__w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=6MX7HBJH35FQCHDMZDQV&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a8a4721b-7b61-53ef-9745-f37e51bea825&pf_rd_i=12890741
So I just tried this stuff... did two coats on depron... And it's exactly elmers glue with a different label.... not impressed. But... If you guys mix it with water, soak some brown packing paper and coat your plane with that and let it dry. It makes it really solid. But mod podge alone I didn't like it at all its basically overpriced elmers glue IMO. Anyone ever tried rhino liner?
I’m 8 months late, but I’m building my first rc scratch build right now and getting ready to cover it. I’ve been leaning towards the brown paper method but have seen some other methods. Can you paint over the paper with, say a spray paint, or will that melt the foam through the paper? What other coating are good yet simple (and preferably cheap, I’m in college)
@@F3HDemonDriver1 Thanks. OK, will get some this weekend. Can this be applied to an already painted EPS model that I want to repaint and also provide some rigidity or would you recommend sanding and then applying?
@@F3HDemonDriver1 I do have a question, I see two versions of the purple bottle. One marked good for furniture 8 oz bottle and the other a 16oz that looks more identical to your bottle. Which one? Just want to get the right one. Thanks.
Nothing New True, But new to be using it to laminate Styrofoam RC Planes Mr Crawford, I was the first person to make a video using this product for RC.
Chris
I have seen that in Walmart for years now. I never bought it. I was not ready to try everything I come across in a store. But after watching this I will be using this regularly now on any foamy I want to spray paint. This is the answer to my always wondering where to get a good silver paint on my foam. The best silvers I found eat foam. Not now. I just happen to be rebuilding my USCG Hu-16 Albatross. I need a couple coats on the V bottom. so I can do a repaint. This will help here. Many more uses also. Great expose' you have done here helping everyone.
Thanks,
Total pleasure to help My Friend, I've learned quite a few things from you over the years.
Hi bud. Loving this stuff. Thanks for the heads up. 👍🏻
I'm glad you Like it Adrian, thankyou!
THANK YOU ! Very interesting and useful ! Since valsa is porous znd low in tensile strength, would you recommed using MOD PODG on a balsa llane hdck or even a wood boat hull ?
We used Mod Podge in Art College for a lot of interesting uses, it's fort all intents and purposes the same thing as Elmer's Glue... a bit thinner but either of them can be thinned with water and mixed with Acrylic paints for some interesting posabilities
I love that stuff. I use two coats of mod podge, epoxy primer, paint then K2 two part clear coat and it’s as hard as fiber glass... And if/ when you snap a wing or elevator you can just re do your repair at the seam.
Wow, Nice . . .thankyou for that Don!
You are soo inspiring. I come from to old school way of building. Been out of it for a long time but now you have inspired me to build a citation x using your techniques. Keep up the great work. You are the man.
I'm Grateful Charles, I LOVE the Citation X, Please build it!
Gonna have to give this a try. thanks for the tip Chris, Cheers!
You're VERY welcome brother!
This sure sounds like the PVA adhesive that we use a lot of in the UK. It is sold under various names here, one being called "BaslaLoc" which is sometimes painted onto the bare wood of a model before being covered with Oracover or Solartex. That is water based and has little or no smell and is not toxic.
This product is formulated to create a hard-shell over whatever surface you apply it to Anthony, This is also water based and is Non-toxic and dries in around an hour.
Excellent demonstration Chris,the proof is in the applying and final results.
Cheers Mr Reading, its a very reliable product, there is a UK version but I forgot it's name.
Amazing ! It exist here in France on Amazon, there are other versions of Mod Podge but I don't see the "pink" one... This just opened the door to my first PSS homebuild. thanks !
Can I use this over paint to make a protective hard shell?
Foam is melting because of the aerosol from the paint. If you spray to close its the aerosol that will eat almost all foam. Spray 12 inches away and foam won’t melt. Regardless if it’s bare or Mod podge.
It's made out of polyvinyl acetate, the same thing as Elmer's glue - have you tried just plain Elmer's, or another PVA glue?
Loved the vid! What was the final dry colour, it looked gray? If so it's not good for over coating a painted panel that you want to protect.
Thanks for an informative video. I've been looking for something to put on my Polaris Ultra foam seaplane, short of fiberglassing it, this may be just the thing! Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome Erick!
Definitely appreciate this video and passing on this great crafting knowledge. I will most definitely give this product a try. It looks like an excellent product indeed for our model aircraft hobby.
I saw this video and thought I'd give it a try. Modge Podge on wings and polycrylic fuselage. I put three coats of Modge Podge on and sanded with 340 before, between and after. I then sprayed a white primer and started applying paint details with delicate green tape. The Modge Podge wings were tough to sand out because the streaky uneven finish it leaves but I got there. The problem I had was in pulling the tape for paint trim, the Modge Podge would separate from the EPO (not break). The loose ares couldn't stay so I tried sanding which basically starts a hole in the loose Modge Podge and then big ares separate completely leaving a complete mess. The fuselage came out fine. I ended up getting new wings rather than work to fix that weak foundation.
@@billcullen616 Based on your feedback, I got a better idea for the wings then. Apply first a coat or two of polycrilic, sand the last coat with 320 or 400 sandpaper, then apply a coat or two of ModPodge. I believe this will solve the "peeling" problem. I love experimenting with "what if" scenarios. Thank you for your feedback.
Could you apply this product with a foam brush so you can avoid the many "streaks" a regular brush leaves ? Unless of course this is no concern if this product has great leveling properties. Thank you again for your time.
Huge help, definitely going to save money now on projects
My Pleasure Monroe! I wish yo well on your projects!
Great job I’m gonna go out and get some and give it a shot on my planes. What about a high glossy finish? Do I sand over it and put another coat?
Good video! I wander if it is sand-able if you mix with micro balloons (low weight filler) and apply to foam.
Just received the Mod Podge product and it says cure time is 4 weeks. True it says wait 20 min between layers. But what is the 4 week cure time then?
Forgive me if the following is a silly question, but I wonder if there is a difference between applying this Mod Podge hard-coat product, versus, a thinned coat of wood glue ( like the Titebond II which is also water proof ). Would very much appreciate your feedback. Either way, I will give this product a try and do my own tests but I wanted to know if you had an answer to my question. Thank you very much in advance for your time.
I know this is an older question, but it is my understanding that Titebond I and II can be painted over once it has dried. I have read that once Titebond III has cured, it will not bond to itself, if another layer is applied. I would assume, if true, paint may not bond well to cured Titebond III as well.
Ok - tricky question - at the 14:27" mark when you hold the canopy after the first coat has dried, I see a lot of tiny imperfections on the surface ( assuming of course I want to create a perfectly glass smooth surface ) so my question to you is this: would you rather fill and sand the canopy first with some light spackling compound to achieve a glass smooth surface and then apply a coat or two of the Mod Podge hard shell or you follow a different sequence ? Thank you for your time again.
Mod... podge.... not modge podge lol come on man your killing me hah thx man I might have to give this a try
No it's Mob-Squad! LOL LMAO!
Thanks Van! :)
Can you sand when hardened
I have been using Modge Podge OUT DOOR type. I may have gotten an old bottle but mine was THICK, and I mean thick! I had to thin it down to get it to work. I used it over my repaired areas and can say it does work. I havent done any durability testing on it yet. When I do, I will make a video on it. I did notice it is very shiny. I plan on testing it many different ways so You are definitely on to something. Some foam planes are easily damaged. My concern is brush marks. No one with a highly detailed plane is going to want to see brush strokes or shiny surfaces. I have thinned Modge Podge down and used it, it still works well.
Thank you for this generous tip 👌👌👌
Thanks for sharing this video! Very interesting and informative and helpful
My pleasure!
We dont have those here, can i use elmer's carpinter glue instead? Thanks for this info.
Chris could you put that over a new eflite planes scheme to be able to paint it a different color?
This is more of a hard-shell coating but I would imagine that that's possible.
Does it dry clear? Say if the foam is already painted will the colour come through.
Did you ever get an answer for that question?
@@rogerhartzell544 unfortunately not
Ya but is it non toxic and easy to use? What about water soluble
Thanks. I was told to use polyurethane spray...
I noticed it left heavy streaking, can it be wet or dry sanded?
I've been doing well sick of the snow here in Michigan haven't flown since October.
why not?? I'm in west Michigan, keep flying all winter. Made a Flitetest sea Otter, flies great off snow!
How long do you let it to dry?
Thanks for the info, you answered the question I have had on my mind for the last few days.
I'm happy to help John!
@@F3HDemonDriver1 What type of paint will work after doing the mod podge?
awesome! gonna buy a bottle of that and try to cast my new wing with it and put a nice spray paint to it :P
UPDATE: Mod Podge just arrived, i just applied the first layer and while its curing i noticed its billdung "blind spots" , its crawling away on some places as it wont bond there ?! I cleaned the foam before applying it. As i noticed it i started ti grind the other parts with sandpaper to rough up the surface , it seems to help
Top tips , must give it a try , all the best ......
It's a good low-cost way to laminate any RC Foamie.
This is good stuff glad I took your advice I really am
Nice video Chris.. I have to go out and get some Mod Podge.. Looks like good stuff.. Thanks Man..
It's a Good product that works really well Pat.
I'm in Rochester Hills where near the lakes and we have been pounded with snow this year
I hope you get some flying weather soon Pat.
Hello I have a question that I hope you might be able to answer I just purchased a parrot Disco it has black foam and I was curious if if this would work on the plane as a protective coat? Thank you for your time
Hi Jeremy as a protective coat yes, but try not to get your RC plane wet in the rain because this stuff is water based.
@@F3HDemonDriver1 that brings up another question after using it can I clear coat with spray paint to make it waterproof? And thank you so much for responding back to me
Sadly this stuff isn't waterproof to hard rain etc, so you need to waterproof it with Minwax , shellak, or gloss paint.
you should know that you can prime foam with any oil base paint or even polyurethane.
these oil base or paint thinner base coatings do not dissolve foam.
it's the acetone etc. in spray paints that does the damage
We stripped the paint off of an Arrow Corsair using packing tape (pulls the paint right off) and coated it with 'minwax wipe on poly' as a hard primer and painted it with oil based semi-gloss or you can use any spray paint on the poly primer
Sir, I’m Konrad from South Africa and starting of with a new hobby, RC. Can you get this Mod Podge also in clear and paint it over the decorative sticker of the plane. Thanks for answering. Regards
For foam shell you can use any PVA Polyvinyl acetate glue. After drying it will create shell to protect foam from paint chemicals. For decal covering it's not good because it will yellowish by the time.
Future acrylic floor finish is self leveling and works great as a sealer on model planes, foam projects. I usually use Minwax waterbase sealer also. I didnt hear you say it is fuel safe, meaning you could use a nitro fuel around it. I have clear cast, but never used it for a model, other than water scenes. If it locks the foam down for any type of paint, it may work for protection of foam if you paint it. Nitro fuel if it has gone bad, eats paint reguardless. I coated my Waco electric RC plane and those products do save the finish on a plane with a weak paint job. These products do add some weight to the plane but not much. Out side, I never use a mask, just spray so all product goes downwind. Always start spraying paint off the product, spray long ways across the product and carry past the project. There are videos out there that teach proper paint techniques. Its not the paint that generally eats the paint, its the solvents. if you keep your distance over 4 inches, you should be good. Modge podge does leave brush strokes, where as minwax doesnt, it is self leveling, as is future floor finish. You can even coat canopys and any clear windows with future and it wont hurt the plastics.
I'm not sure if its fuel safe, but fewer and fewer people Fly Gas Or Glow nowadays, withing 5 years even less people will be using internal combustion engines in RC.
RC DemonDriver Dont count on it. There is a resergence comming. I am investing in the Engines. I recommend going on E- Bay and see how long an RC Nitro engine lasts as far as bidding. They are selling like hot cakes. Younger guys are starting to rediscover them.
RC Hobbyist Extreme, Thanks, I was thinking about using Minwax. You can also find spray cans of other water base clear coats that would work I would think. One of my first 3 ch. foam planes I used clear packing tape, and it looked OK.
Thank you, what a great tip. I will go out and get some. Does that strengthen the foam a little to
Thanks River, it will create a ding resistant shell if you apply two coats, so yes it will strengthen foam.
River Minwax waterbased sealer is self leveling and does the same job as does future floor sealer, you can get at the dollar store and you can use it on canopys. As an old school person, I can say it works great on model car windshields too.
Thanks for another helpful vid DD
My Pleasure Pat, How you been doing?
this is great I have a stinger 64 and the nose section is so thin one bad hit to the nose and it brakes the nose off. I'm going to try this product and see how it works.
Thanks Mike, one suggestion, apply 2-3 coats and you'll have a very hard shell.
Mike I would recommend this on all nose cones. It does leave a shine, however, you can get a waterbased dull coat finish to apply over the modge podge that should knock down the shine. Look for Model Masters Dull coat in the paint section of your local hobby shop. Make sure you test a small area first.
Hi DD,
I am a new subscriber to your channel, and recently came across you Mod Podge video... a couple of questions regarding the product.
Looking on Amazon, there appears to be two Mod Podge formulas available Mod Podge Waterbase Sealer, Glue and Finish (16-Ounce), CS15063 Hard Coat and Mod Podge Hard Coat for Furniture, 8-Ounce (CS11245) The former description fits..., but the product number differs for what is shown in your video, and the later matches the product number but differs as being for furniture? Thanks for your time in clarifying this issue...
Hi James, its possible they changed the product code, but I find the easiest way to find this product is simply look for the one with the "dark Purple" label Mod Podge.
so it wouldn't hurt to do more than 2 coats and then sand to a nice silky smooth finish?
wonder if I could take the paper off my Flitetest dollar tree foam builds, and add 2 layers of this? And hopefully it will be waterproof after painting with oil based spray paint, I want to build a new FT sea otter to fly off water in the spring
I'm sure you could do that, this is a foam-safe laminte.
worth a try, just picked some up
Tom Heetderks That paper is also a structural part of the foam. Use minwax water based sealer instead. Its self leveling and works great on the foam board. I use it all the time on all my foamys. Oh, future floor finish does the same thing. You can get it at the dollar store.
yeah, I've been using the oil based minwax spray and it really does work nice! I was thinking maybe it would be ok to remove one side of the paper, but it probably would weaken things a bit. Never heard of using future floor finish..is it a long term waterproofing solution?
Tom Heetderks Guys in the modelling world have been using it for a while now. Minwax is a sealant used in the wood working industry. I used it on all my kitchen cabinets. It is very water proof. Even outside. Future floor finish is an acrylic floor finish that also seals and water proofs. Its self levelling, meaning you brush it on and it leaves no brush marks at all
Did you succeed getting your cool 2001 Orion Space Shuttle to fly? Last vids I can find are from 2014 early test flights.
she's fully repaired and I have made new adjustments to her CG and have built an Orion chuck glider to test my theories on, so I would look for more flight attempts this spring or summer.
Wearing a paint long sleeve coverall and gloves is a good idea using spray paint. Your absorbing the paint chemicals and solvents just like breathing it. We all want you healthy too. Making years of very educational videos .
I guess your right but I know not having a respirator on when spraying paint is pure suicide, which sadly lots of builders do.
Thanks for awesome video Chris, I was wondering, if I use it on the paper of dollar tree foam builds, will it saturate in and help keep the paper on? I was thinking of trying that, and then sealing with something waterproof (poly acrylic perhaps) for a second FT sea otter build. Time to try it with a quick mock up I guess..
I do get that its not glue of course, but maybe it would help stick a little bit..
"Cheers", I have many EPO RC planes that need repairs.
This or white glue?
Have you tried applying this along with fiberglass cloth to create a tough fiberglass/mod podge layer?
I would use a fiberglass resin for that instead of this product.
Chris, which Modge Podge versions will work.? I found no less than 10 or more different versions..Will only the ones that say Hard coat work?
Modge podge "hard shell" version Sir.
You can vac-form over bare styrofoam if you make one pull over the other. Yes, it picks up a slight texture and you have to cut whatever of the first pull that will interfere with the second. But-- the second pull smooths out the surface.
Mod Podge is pretty cool stuff. I had not really paid attention to the other varieties. Which is unlike me but I usually shop like a driven man. And, now I know!
I've tried to Vac-form over bare Styrofoam and it always melts on me Eliot LOL. My Luck.
Yeah, the first form melts some of the foam. That's why you do it one on top of the other-- the first one acts as a barrier. The second one comes out just fine. Works great.
One more question: will modge podge coat turn yellow over time under sunlight?
Everything turns yellow if left out in the sun for a long time, Mod Podge is not UV treated.
@@F3HDemonDriver1 hey I was thinking of using it on a glider, will it add too much weight?
Someone told me this takes a month to harden properly. Is this true as I really need max 1 week drying time for my projects. I don't want to send out to customers and find that it still hasn't dried out.
Right in the Beginning of the video he explains that it takes only a few hrs. to cure.
I have done my scratch build 737-300 mod podge and i am try to find what type of paint will work .
Hi Jermaine, 737-300 sounds Good, Make sure you have atleast 2 coats of Mod-pogde down on your surface then find some testors or Tamiya Primer paint then add a coat of primer then add your Glossy Paint.
@@F3HDemonDriver1 Thanks I am doing it in the old southwest scheme..
I am building my plane off this guy designed...
th-cam.com/video/MwbO9XTsn-Q/w-d-xo.html
Nice, Make a video of Her maiden flight!
Rats...
Just returned the paper version i bought yesterday... bought the standard red label on today... can that be used at all?...
I only found the hard shell vesion at Hobby Lobby... wally didnt have it
Awsome idea gotta try that but seriously you should learn how to paint using spray paint and primer you will get better outcome if you spray correctly
Well Dave, There are Many painting techniques, One guy says this is the right way, one guy says that's right or that's wrong, to me it's like your Pool stroke or Golf swing . . . .whatever gets the job done and the finial result.
I have been thinking about putting on polyacrylic coating on some painted planes. Going to home depot soon and will be building a freewing B17 so I def want to protect it. This will be good to use in conjunction to makes planes last years.
It's a very easy product to use as you saw in this video, another way to also give your RC planes long Life is to keep them away from Kids under 7, Dogs, and angry wives & girlfriends LOL.
Ain't THAT the truth!
RCWeaven FPV Use minwax waterbased sealer. It is self leveling and leaves no brush strokes. I use sponge brushes. You can use it on canopys too. I use it on ALL my RC planes. It makes the foam stronger, less likely to get scratched, chipped and dent proof. I have been using it for years. clean up is soap and water.
I use Minwax as well but this Mod-Podge Hard-shell gives you a hard surface that Minwax can't.
RC DemonDriver How is the flow as far as finish? can you airbrush it? Im not arguing the use. I plan on testing the two and doing a video. I really want to put them to the test as far as durability. I dont land very gracefully sometimes, my planes get scoffed up. Most paints on RC foam planes chip, scratch and wear horribly. If we can seal the finish right from the box, things will stay nicer longer. I think anything we can use that saves the finish will help. I think making a video and testing sealers would be a great idea. As I have time and extra planes, I think I will give it a shot. Everyone benifits from our videos. See mine at RC Hobbyist Extreme on You- Tube. I cover several cost saving things as well as starting a Nitro Plane restore.
Does this stuff add any heat resistance? Could I use monokote on top?
I honestly doubt this coating is heat resistant Mike.
So is it any better than using pva glue (white/elmer's glue, wood glue...) or even polycrylic?
Yes, This is sold as a brush-on "hard-shell" and it gets much harder if you apply 2+ coats.
Is it sand-able and any idea on weight for a multi layer application?
You can add atleast 2 layers without any real increase in weight.
and its sand-able.
That is quite clever..thank you!
You're very welcome Mal.
wood dowel is what I would use for cone. Razor blade bad advise. kids watch this too.
Wood Dowel would be to heavy for an RC Flight Use, and Children should have access to razor blades Morris.
Great video thanks! Will try that instead of water based polyurethane. Will this be thinned and used to apply on fiberglass cloth? Looking forward to more of your new build or rebuild!
You can thin it with water, you can also use it to laminate fiberglass but in that case I would use it straight out of the bottle without thinning it out.
Thankyou Edwen!
Thanks DemonDriver! Will try that soon.
edwen303 You can use future floor finish also from the dollar store. It is self leveling and car modellers use it on their windshields to make the plastics clearer looking, so it can be used right over canopys.
How does this future floor finish handle EPS foam or EPO foam? Read instruction could't find the solvent in the product.
edwen303 Its an acrylic, it shouldn't bother anything. As with anything you use,paints,glues,epoxys,always try a small amount in an area that is not noticeable before doing the whole project. Pretty much any product you use states that right on the package. I use acrylic paints and use future in a spray gun and have never had an issue with yellowing.
thanks dude. gonna try this on all my beautiful scale planes. subscribed
My Pleasure Eddie, thankyou!
Hi buddy... I have a parrot disco (foam wing), i want to hard coat it to make it more damage resistant . Do you recommend mod podge?
Yes, But just remember the more coats you add to your Parr-Disco the heavier it will get, but yes with enough Mod Podge is will kelp it become more damage resistant.
@@F3HDemonDriver1 thanks for the reply
Anytime!
I was looking for something to harden a Woof Woof doll that I made from the Munsters. The part of the body with no fur needed a hardener, as the fingers would split. Everyone seems to call the product “Modge Podge”. Even I used to do that. Don’t allow the people who say mean things to you about it bother you. I think the company needs to rename it!!! Lol
Thank U for great info
I hope it helps Mike.
Can the Mod Podge hard coat be sanded and painted right over, or is an extra primer coat needed before painting? Thanks.
No you can paint right over the Mod Podge and sand it but make sure you have 2 coats and don't sand away any areas of the Mod Podge or it wont protect the foam from the paint.
white glue and water does the same thing and its cheaper just mix to what you need
Like wood glue??
Can this be thinned and sprayed with a paint gun?
Yes as long as its not to thick, I'd water it down slightly.
Cool, thanks for the reply. :)
xKmotx it only takes a tiny amount of water to thin it down, I have sprayed it with a 2mm nozzle gravity feed gun, but theres a trick to stop it from blotching and orange peeling, pre clean the surface with isopropyl alcohol then take a soft microfibre cloth, dampen it with an even thinner mix of mod podge (pva) and scrub the surface with it, leaving very little behind but basically pre wetting the surface like a prime. let it dry 15 minutes then spray, you will get a good wet glassy coat with excellent adhesion.
Thank you for the great advice!
xKmotx I wouldnt, no way!
it takes 72hrs to completely dry for mine
Just curious if you send between coats? If so, wet or dry?
I did a bare pnp yesterday; wet sanded today, and the mod podge just peeled right of, leaving a huge mess!
Thanks!
John
He states in the video that it is water soluable so wet sanding is obviously not going to work.
How much weight will this add?
Very little, almost not worth measuring, basically a coat of paint.
Wood dowel is NOT for flight. It is as the RAZOR. A handle to hold the cone for painting!!!!
I see, then use a dowel for a handle, I used a razors a handle in order to be able to not damage the foam and easily set it down so it can dry.
I think it is PVA glue you are describing thick white and water-soluble but when it goes off it leaves a thin skin good as a wood glue brick glue, in fact, any porous surface glue we use it in the building industry in the UK very cheap a gallon will cost you about £5.00
This product is sold as a "Hard-shell" coating as its called right on the label and it does just that Bob, its not really the same as white glue although there are some similarities.
Dose this dry clear
Yes, with a very very slight yellowing, but almost unnoticeable.
rc plane companies should impliment methodes simular to this during the manufacturing process ' considering the price they charge ' seriously just common sense over greed
Can this product also be thinned to apply with spray or putty gun for no brush marks
Very true Gab, to be honest after the Mod-podge dries the brush strokes vanish.
i don't know what's going on with these Mod Podge products but because there are so many and you never actually gave a product number I had to watch both of your Mod Podge videos multiple times at 1080p while going .25 speed through all the frames where you showed and it still took me forever to decipher the Mod Podge product number on the bottle label (CS11245). ironically the only Mod Podge CS11245 i can find is "Mod Podge Hard Coat for Furniture" which has a different label that no where says " Waterbase Sealer, Glue and Finish", the Mod Podge i can find with the exact same wording on the label as yours has a different product number (CS15063) in the upper corner so i am totally lost as to which Mod Podge product to get!!!
I'll make it easy for you Sir, It's the Mod-Podge container with the "purple" label.
ok but is it purple label CS11245?
www.amazon.com/Mod-Podge-Furniture-8-Ounce-CS11245/dp/B00168579E/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1530120063&sr=1-3&refinements=p_89%3AMod+Podge&dpID=41NTH1yOnkL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
or purple label CS15063?
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CI1U5NQ/ref=s9_acsd_simh_hd_bw_bs5TB_cr_x__w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-3&pf_rd_r=6MX7HBJH35FQCHDMZDQV&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=a8a4721b-7b61-53ef-9745-f37e51bea825&pf_rd_i=12890741
こんばんは。今度は何を制作しているんですか？
あと機体に塗っている白いものはなんですか？
これは、ラミネート樹脂コーティング
発泡スチロールを塗料や損傷から保護するのに役立ちます
私はあなたの最新のRC車を見て待つことができません(^_^)/
おはよう＼(^o^)／
そうですか。教えてくれてありがとう。(*^_^*)
never thought of that.
It works really well, and for 5-7 bucks it doesn't hurt the wallet.
It’s MOD podge, not MODGE podge. BTW it’s just cheap PVA glue rebadged.
Thanks
So I just tried this stuff... did two coats on depron... And it's exactly elmers glue with a different label.... not impressed. But... If you guys mix it with water, soak some brown packing paper and coat your plane with that and let it dry. It makes it really solid. But mod podge alone I didn't like it at all its basically overpriced elmers glue IMO. Anyone ever tried rhino liner?
I’m 8 months late, but I’m building my first rc scratch build right now and getting ready to cover it. I’ve been leaning towards the brown paper method but have seen some other methods. Can you paint over the paper with, say a spray paint, or will that melt the foam through the paper? What other coating are good yet simple (and preferably cheap, I’m in college)
Thanks for the knowledge transfer. I have been using Liquid Sheet II from wowplanes.com $20. It's a 2 part product.
Liquid sheet is Good stuff, I've used it too, But this product is a good easy one-part non-toxic brush on coating which is pretty easy to use.
@@F3HDemonDriver1 Thanks. OK, will get some this weekend. Can this be applied to an already painted EPS model that I want to repaint and also provide some rigidity or would you recommend sanding and then applying?
@@F3HDemonDriver1 I do have a question, I see two versions of the purple bottle. One marked good for furniture 8 oz bottle and the other a 16oz that looks more identical to your bottle. Which one? Just want to get the right one. Thanks.
You want the one that says "Hard shell" or "Hard Cote" on it.
@@F3HDemonDriver1 Ok, both say that so I will assume either or will work. Thanks DemonDriver!
Mod Podge not Modge Podge.
Mod podge sucks. Prepped the surface and my epo foam plane is now a peeling mess
🙏🏾🔥
A razor blade for a handle🤪 Do you own stock in a bandage co? LOL.....
Poor Man’s Gesso..
Mod podge not modge podge…
Nothing new. Been on the market since the 1960’s that I know of. Maybe even longer.
Nothing New True, But new to be using it to laminate Styrofoam RC Planes Mr Crawford, I was the first person to make a video using this product for RC.