I added a 3/8 hardboard to the bottom of the one I bought from you, when I use the Veritas blades and it works well. Hope you and family doing well MJ. Semper Fi bud.
Good call. That’s a great option, especially for folks who like the feel of wood on wood vs. the stock metal sole against wood. Between the video and the comment section, hopefully everyone will find an answer that works for them.
Remedy for Stanley 71 made in England model. The veritas cutter is 10 mm longer to the slot of the aduster nut-change the threaded rod in the router body for another 10mm longer. My Record 071 fits the Veritas cutters perfectly.
I got lucky and won a auction and picked up a complete new 71 with instructions and box for my wife. She said she was interested in one. I'm not kidding anyone, she was the excuse for me to get it. Lol
That’s outstanding! One of the luckiest estate sales I ever went to had a nearly complete 71 in a box just marked “open face router” with an $8 price tag attached. But my wife was not overly impressed 🫠
I bought some Veritas blades because the internet told me I could flip the adjuster and it does work on mine. Not sure what I would have done if it didn't work, probably just put it in a drawer to work on later like everything else that has a problem. Actually, it took me a minute to find it just now and it was in a drawer.
That sounds like an effective method too though some folks prefer to not alter their vintage tools. There sure are plenty of em out there though, so it won’t hurt anything.
I'd be interested in learning about the tote hardware. I picked up a 71 without handles, adjuster knob, or the tote nut/studs. I could probably machine an adjuster knob - I think that's a standard 1/4-28, but I've seen people saying the tote stuff is goofy non-standard screw sizes and thread shapes.
It’s definitely non-standard. Stanley was infamous for that. I have an original adjuster and some knobs available for sale if you’re interested in either or all. Feel free to email me at jplanefun@gmail.com
That’s a good one to have, especially if you want to use the Veritas irons. I’m a big fan of the custom paint job on this one. I like unique looking tools
Thanks for the video M.J. Your tutorials always help us decide which " route" to take when dealing with these issues. Heh heh , yeah I'll see myself out . 😆
I have never even seen a router plane but thanks for the info. I see many different solutions to the Veritasse iron problem. Some would depend on what thread is the adjuster rod. Some would be quite easy. Have and still on the lookout for one of those planes!
I have at least one that I’d be willing to sell but it would only come with one iron… staying true to form to the scenario described in the video I suppose. 🤓
I messaged you about an iron a month or two ago but decided I’d get a veritas iron. Still haven’t ordered it lol. I made a crappy one from an Allen key but because of the shape it doesn’t want to sit straight in the iron slot unless you tighten it way down. I should order the veritas one. I’d just notch the iron with a dremel or something to accept the adjustment wheel further down if I needed.
I would be tempted to machine a slot at the same height as the Stanley iron. If it’s not hardened on the end even a hacksaw and files. Love the videos.
How hard is it to remove the threaded rod Mike it seems the easy answer would be to buy a die nut off you and make a rod long enough to replace the one that’s in the plane.What do you think.Or you could sell a kit to replace the one that is in there
I think most folks would be reluctant to alter their original vintage plane just to accept an aftermarket reproduction iron. Sorta like filing the mouth open on a bench plane to accept a Hock iron - lots of folks are extremely reluctant to do that too. It could be done, but with the time and effort involved, there might be some more desirable alternatives (buying original irons, buying a second router plane, adjusting it by hand).
Much appreciated! I have the MF 67 and I’ve been wondering if the new irons would work. And here I thought my black sheep status was a negative! I’ve only ever seen one MF router in the wild at a good price so it’s mine now.
Outstanding! Millers Falls made a great plane. I think you’ll be happy with it. And you’ll be pleased with the Veritas irons as well. In some ways, they’re easier to sharpen than the vintage ones too!
My only experience with router planes are old wooden ones. Sadly the old Stanleys go for around 160 dollar here and they are far apart. I find the wooden ones to work fine though, at least with a bit of tuning
@@justplanefun It's a lot of money for me to spend on something like that though, but I get what you're saying. Hopefully some day I'll come across a good deal :)
Would you happen to have a Stanley #71 Made in England complete router plane, the one with the vertical foot and fence? Looking for a unit just for display.
Do you know if the same issue happens with Record router planes ? I made a wooden router plane with a veritas iron and I'm always on the lookout for a Record router plane if I find one at a decent price (they are crazy expensive here).
Record router planes are patterned after the Stanleys so my guess would be they’d have the same issue. Unfortunately I don’t have a Record brand router… yet
just-plane-fun.myshopify.com/products/stanley-no71-router-plane-fence?ToPasteboard
Select Stanley router plane parts available on Shopify
I added a 3/8 hardboard to the bottom of the one I bought from you, when I use the Veritas blades and it works well. Hope you and family doing well MJ. Semper Fi bud.
Good call. That’s a great option, especially for folks who like the feel of wood on wood vs. the stock metal sole against wood.
Between the video and the comment section, hopefully everyone will find an answer that works for them.
Remedy for Stanley 71 made in England model. The veritas cutter is 10 mm longer to the slot of the aduster nut-change the threaded rod in the router body for another 10mm longer. My Record 071 fits the Veritas cutters perfectly.
I got lucky and won a auction and picked up a complete new 71 with instructions and box for my wife. She said she was interested in one. I'm not kidding anyone, she was the excuse for me to get it. Lol
That’s outstanding!
One of the luckiest estate sales I ever went to had a nearly complete 71 in a box just marked “open face router” with an $8 price tag attached.
But my wife was not overly impressed 🫠
I bought some Veritas blades because the internet told me I could flip the adjuster and it does work on mine. Not sure what I would have done if it didn't work, probably just put it in a drawer to work on later like everything else that has a problem. Actually, it took me a minute to find it just now and it was in a drawer.
I replaced the threaded rod with a longer one so I can use Lee Valley's irons. It is a 1/4-24 thread. Works like a charm.
That sounds like an effective method too though some folks prefer to not alter their vintage tools. There sure are plenty of em out there though, so it won’t hurt anything.
Thanks MJ.
Thank *You!
I have a 3/8 x 4 x 9 1/2 (inches) piece of purple heart I use as a base plate, so far it has been great.
I can see purple heart making a good auxiliary base for a router
Glad that you posted this one as I was planning on buying a Veritas (a bit more expensive here) iron, so at least no unexpected surprises. 👍
Excellent. Glad this was helpful for you!
Thanks for the info. I shall just turn a taller adjusting nut to give me the extra height.
Sounds legit.
I'd be interested in learning about the tote hardware. I picked up a 71 without handles, adjuster knob, or the tote nut/studs. I could probably machine an adjuster knob - I think that's a standard 1/4-28, but I've seen people saying the tote stuff is goofy non-standard screw sizes and thread shapes.
It’s definitely non-standard. Stanley was infamous for that. I have an original adjuster and some knobs available for sale if you’re interested in either or all.
Feel free to email me at jplanefun@gmail.com
Damn. I'm happy I have one. Nice MJ. I had no 1/2 iron and purchased a Lee Valley. Basicly you covered exactly what we encounter on 71.
Excellent! Thanks for the input. Hopefully this video will help steer folks in the best direction to suit their needs
Could always put the adjuster to the side if the screw post is too stubby. (TWSS)
Agreed. Just gotta make sure you put it back when you’re done. That’s probably one of the ways those pesky things get lost!
Just found I have the taller adjusting screw. Also, oddly, mine is also painted blue - a pale blue.
That’s a good one to have, especially if you want to use the Veritas irons. I’m a big fan of the custom paint job on this one. I like unique looking tools
Thanks for sharing , we have to deal with what we found 🙂 indeed , sadly I don't have old tools near me so have to go online to purchase tools 🤷 .
Hopefully this video will help you avoid a potential pitfall when ordering router plane irons online. Thank you for watching!
Just add a wood sole if you have the screw holes, it also gives you more of the sole on the wood if you use it for tenons.
Couldn't you add a wooden plate to the sole to raise it up 1/4-3/8"? Paul Sellers does this to extend the reference surface area.
Yep, that’s a great option too
Thanks MJ
Thank *You*!
Thanks for the video M.J. Your tutorials always help us decide which " route" to take when dealing with these issues. Heh heh , yeah I'll see myself out . 😆
😜 That’s me! I’m a regular ole forest 🌳 ranger trying to help folks decide on the best route, r’ path. 😅
Thanks for watching and for commenting!
I have never even seen a router plane but thanks for the info. I see many different solutions to the Veritasse iron problem. Some would depend on what thread is the adjuster rod. Some would be quite easy. Have and still on the lookout for one of those planes!
I have at least one that I’d be willing to sell but it would only come with one iron… staying true to form to the scenario described in the video I suppose. 🤓
@@justplanefun
I may be interested.
I messaged you about an iron a month or two ago but decided I’d get a veritas iron. Still haven’t ordered it lol. I made a crappy one from an Allen key but because of the shape it doesn’t want to sit straight in the iron slot unless you tighten it way down. I should order the veritas one. I’d just notch the iron with a dremel or something to accept the adjustment wheel further down if I needed.
Some other folks in the comments mentioned adding an auxiliary sole to help out with the cause. That seems like a solid option as well.
I would be tempted to machine a slot at the same height as the Stanley iron. If it’s not hardened on the end even a hacksaw and files. Love the videos.
That could definitely be a potential fix as well. At $17 plus shipping that wouldn’t be too painful if it didn’t work out for some reason.
Great info
Thanks!
How hard is it to remove the threaded rod Mike it seems the easy answer would be to buy a die nut off you and make a rod long enough to replace the one that’s in the plane.What do you think.Or you could sell a kit to replace the one that is in there
I think most folks would be reluctant to alter their original vintage plane just to accept an aftermarket reproduction iron. Sorta like filing the mouth open on a bench plane to accept a Hock iron - lots of folks are extremely reluctant to do that too.
It could be done, but with the time and effort involved, there might be some more desirable alternatives (buying original irons, buying a second router plane, adjusting it by hand).
I’d rather notch the blade to accept the adjustment wheel further down.
Much appreciated! I have the MF 67 and I’ve been wondering if the new irons would work. And here I thought my black sheep status was a negative! I’ve only ever seen one MF router in the wild at a good price so it’s mine now.
Outstanding! Millers Falls made a great plane. I think you’ll be happy with it. And you’ll be pleased with the Veritas irons as well. In some ways, they’re easier to sharpen than the vintage ones too!
My only experience with router planes are old wooden ones. Sadly the old Stanleys go for around 160 dollar here and they are far apart. I find the wooden ones to work fine though, at least with a bit of tuning
$160 isn’t too bad as long as it has most, or maybe all of its parts. But if it just has one iron that’s pretty high
@@justplanefun It's a lot of money for me to spend on something like that though, but I get what you're saying. Hopefully some day I'll come across a good deal :)
Would you happen to have a Stanley #71 Made in England complete router plane, the one with the vertical foot and fence?
Looking for a unit just for display.
I just might have what you’re after. If you’re on Facebook, find me at Just Plane Fun - the parts division. If not, email me at jplanefun@gmail.com
Great video. Is the miller falls 77 able to take a veritas iron as well?
Yep
I buy a Veritas iron for my vintage router and I notched it with my hand grinder. No problem
That’s definitely an option!
Drat ! You forgot to talk about all those patternmaker (homemade) brass router planes. Really, they were probably made at work. You have quite a few.
Have you ever had any experience with making them out of Allen keys?
Not personally but I’ve heard tale of it. I think that’s even more common for the smaller routers such as the No271
@@justplanefun we can definitely try it if you want
Do you know if the same issue happens with Record router planes ? I made a wooden router plane with a veritas iron and I'm always on the lookout for a Record router plane if I find one at a decent price (they are crazy expensive here).
Record router planes are patterned after the Stanleys so my guess would be they’d have the same issue. Unfortunately I don’t have a Record brand router… yet
The blue router is cool. Hahaha. It ain't traditional, but why not if you have a bunch
I agree! It’s one of my favorites. I just picked up another one recently that someone painted red and white!
A simple fix to This problem is to screw , bolt a 1/2” base to the bottom of the router.
Good point 👍🏻