Have you seen Workshop Companion's one? He's got a few interesting ideas (acrylic?!) but he's a true man of the trade. th-cam.com/video/q_jT-dl0DII/w-d-xo.html
The simplest router I ever saw was Roy Underhill's. Drive a flathead screw into a board, and file the flat head flatter until it has a cutting edge on it.
I made the Paul Sellers router - before the kit was produced. It works well and it taught me to make, harden (and temper) the blade myself so now I can make different width cutters myself 😊
I bought the Paul Sellers kit after watching his 'How to' videos. Following his instructional web pages made it really simple to complete. The most difficult bit was getting the 50° bedding angle, but again Paul's instructions provided the practical guidance I needed. Really like it.
I went for the Paul Sellers kit after watching him on TH-cam. I’m only a beginner and although putting the kit together was a bit fiddly for my level, it worked out great if you are patient. I’ve used it a lot and it’s a great tool.
I made several variants (body length, cutter angle) of Paul Sellers' router plane before he started selling his kits. Once the first one was out of the way, and I figured out what I was doing, all the others went very smoothly. I really only stopped making them because I kinda thought that maybe I finally had enough router planes.
It is nice to have at least two if they don't have a locking stop, then you can set one to the final depth, and creep up to that depth with the other one.
Your point about the slop in the Stanley 71 is really insightful. duh! The whole video is. I bought the Sellers kit because I can't justify spending the money for the Stanley. I still need to make the router, so thanks for the tips about setting the iron.
I have finally made the Paul Sellers router plane. I agree this did take some steps to get it all aligned properly, including having to make the angle holder twice until I had it made correctly. I really like the plane and it works very well.
I have a Stanley 71 without the depth adjuster. I put a playing card under each side, to adjust the depth of the blade. I set the router in place, put a playing card under the body below each knob, release the clamp, tighten the clamp after the blades drops, and then go to work. Before that I just eyeball it. I'd probably use something similar on Rex's plane instead of tapping.
I made my first, bought a veritas then found a 71. I keep different blades in them all and have a large base on the 71. I default to the 1/2” cutter in the veritas, it’s a beautiful tool and a pleasure to use.
I was fortunate enough to pick up an old Stanley 71 (Made in England) at a second hand stall on a street market for very little money. One blade, no forward skate. The beech handles had no paint left on them, but look great with a linseed oil and wax finish. I added the pointy blade and forward skate off the usual auction site later, and never felt the need of anything else. I've often looked at the Hag's Tooth types at vintage/antique stalls, but never fancied spending on them.
Thank you for making this video! It is wonderful to see the differences between the designs. "A jig for holding a chisel" seems so simple ; the design of the jig is paramount.
No matter the skill level, both kits look like they're going to be an immense amount of fun to build. Few things feel better than working with a tool you made yourself! (And yes, I love my Record 071 too!)
I have the Stanley 71 and I love it. I've also made a Paul Sellers designed router plane using Beech and I love that even more for two reasons. One, it feels light and more smooth being wood on wood. Secondly because I made it and that makes it even more satisfying.
What can we say? A very thoughtful comparison between two awesome folks. I don't think that either of them could find a complaint. I think that you described what their intentions were when they built their kits.
For an iron/chisel, look at Tay Tools. They have Naresh unhandled chisels for about $10 for premier steel. They are full hardness so if making Seller's router, need to use abrasive cutters to make notches instead of hardening after shaping.
Neat trick on the Stanley, I didn't know that. I have the KM, and have found I just turn the adjustment knob down the same number of degrees (depending on wood hardness) to get equivalent shavings; works for me.
I built the Paul Sellers one when he first released the build videos. I love it & I've done the same as you & left out the knobs, it just feels better in my hand.
James, good review. I bought a Stanley 71-1/2 in 2015 - before the price was driven up - for $62. Thank you for the adjustment tip. It will come in handy.
I made the one from Rex last week. It was dead simple to make, took about a day if you take into account shellacking it, and works perfectly. I have the Paul Sellers kit as well and am trying to decide which wood to use to create the body. I've been doing power tool hobby woodworking for a while but really prefer using human powered tools. Thanks for the information on making sure everything is absolutely to spec hardware wise when building the Paul Sellers router; being forewarned helps prevent frustration.
Mostly I use the one I adapted from the one you made. Rather than a bent iron I used a 5" piece of half inch keystock cut and filed to a 15° angle with a drilled and tapped hole in the middle. I'd picked up some of those"carving tools " from China at surplus outlets and flea markets and cut and shaped them into left and right skews, a spear point and 1/4-3/8-1/2" cutters. I've messed with a incannel gouge to for cleaning up blood grooves on cutting boards but I don't think I've gotten the angle right, to much tearout which is one of the things I was hoping to eliminate.
I use a Veritas router for most bottom-of-groove clean up and anywhere I need a fence (think inlays referenced to an edge). I like the Veritas's angled knobs. For cleaning up tenon cheeks and similar operations I use a Stanley 71 with an asymmetric torrified maple base. For large-area or deep routing I use one of those tools with the spinning sharp thing on the bottom. (Flip the switch and hear it scream.)
Good video. I didn't know about the slop feature. But, it comes to mind about this video. A good woodworker with a TH-cam channel who likes to occasionally get on to his soap box has no soap box. I think we both have to correct this omission.
I am very lucky and just picked up a 71 for £60. Awesome. Enjoyed making a home grown router too. I love routers. And I don't get my signals crossed. LOL.
I made my own based loosely on James Hamilton's design. I bought two cutters from Lee Valley. The only thing I don't really like about it is having made the adjustment knob from a rod connector and a couple of washers. I would love to find the kind of adjustment knob that comes with Paul Sellers' kit. For the body, I laminated some walnut and mahogany. I may re-make the body a bit larger (longer) to have more reference surface.
I have made the Paul Sellers kit and had the same issue that the adjuster knob was off just a tad - a little hammer work sorted that out. I used ash so I did not try to use the drill to insert the screws a used two nuts to lock them. Overall a great router and I am going to get a second kit to make a longer bed on the left for tenon work as you have done.
Super helpful, thanks James! I wanna go with the Paul sellers kit because it looks snazzy and will give me a good challenge, but I also wanna support Rex and recognize that his is much more in line with my current skill level.
Hi James. I liked the comparison of the tools. I added features to cut circular designs. I mentioned this last October. Design near complete. I’ll email the pictures.
I lucked out and was gifted a Stanley 71 1/2 and I love it!! I agree I wish it had a little wider platform until I do smaller projects then I love its size. I have yet to see why I would need the open front of the 71. Maybe still to new to woodworking to realize it’s value. But I love your tenon router design. I want to make one from the Paul Sellers kit. But I am going to wait awhile before deciding if it’s necessary.
Thanks for hte comparison, I have one of Pul Seller's kits athome, but have not built it yet. I have been using an Admini router plane from Amazon, it works well, but has a small base. The plane also has the same feature, "slop", in the plane iron that you pointed out for the Stanley plane, that tip will help me the next time use the plane.
I made the Stumpy Nubs w/ a Veritas cutter. Then I bought a Lie Nielsen large router and a Veritas medium. A widow's tooth version might be interesting to make.
Great Episode James! I feel the same way. I have a 71 1/2 that is just a great tool. When I have router work to do, I don't even think about it I just grab that one. I have made a few and love them but, they aren't my first choice. Thank you sir for the comparison and info!
I had the 71 but could not stand it. It was a pain to adjust (didn't know about the "slop"), so I sold the 71 and bought the Katz-Moses with the thin additional blades. I really like the craftsmanship and the tool is super easy to adjust.
I made the Rex Krueger plane. It is not quite as easy as it seams. Cutting the dado for the blade to fit in would be really easy - if you have a router plane. :) But using the instructions with a chisel and mallet, I was able to make it. Also, clamping it with the 45 degree angle is a challenge. The solution is to make a cradle to keep it from moving around. But even then, I had challenges. It would still move when I tried to use regular clamps. So I turned to a solution I have used for other tricky clamp operations - free weights. I just put a couple of 5 pound barbells over it to provide all of the clamping pressure I needed while only having to register it on one side.
Great comparison. Very informative. I owned a 71, in very good condition. Decided to try the Veritas. OMG what a difference. I couldn't sell the 71 fast enough. Sorry, but the ergonomics along with the fit and finish make the 71 seem almost crude in comparison. The info about the "slop" was something I'd never heard of before; fascinating but not enough to change my choice. Thanks for all you do.
I actually built my own. only bought the blade (i think it was a veritas L-shaped one) and built the body from scrap wood. Didn't like most of the one-screw böade locks, so came up with a two-screw one that works nicely for me. Would love to have a screw-based depth set, but a hammer works nicely enough.
Thanks, great video as always, I watched your "how to sharpen and use an 80/81" video earlier, it's great to see how you've become more comfortable in front of the camera. It's nice to see how the different router planes compare, I need to make myself one like your offset one :) I made a Paul Sellers Router plane but at the time the hardware was sold out so I made it myself. I used M6 stainless studding just screwed directly into an oak body (tapping drill size, a bit of wax, 2 nuts and just screwed them in) and it's all rock solid. I made the iron out of a 12mm HSS machine tool blank I had and I learnt that if you shape the cutout of the iron so the top and bottom of the cutout is curved and there's a small amount of relief at the back of the grove you can have it all very close fitting without the alignment being too important. I did the cutting out of the HSS blank using a dremel, it was too hard for files.
In the absence of a deep wooden body I think its good to have knobs on it. They make it much easier when pivoting around one end for cleaning up tenons. But its no biggie.
I've got an early Stanley 71 before they had the raised front. I love that router. It works very well. I cant speak to others because I only have the one
It’s very easy and desirable to extend the sole forward on any of them. The vertical system is much better than the 45*. I find. I’ve not had much success making stuff with chisels at 45*. Too much chatter and protrusion leverage. I now have the Veritas and a neighbour gave me a Stanley. They both work fine, but you have to choose your wood. If I am not making good progress I reach for my Bosch. It leaves a better finish. I have an enlarged wooden base addition on my Veritas to stop the rocking motion. If I am doing tenons I place two end on side by side.
My Grandfather was a cabinet maker and shop teacher. On the end of his bench he had about a 16 inch board that was loosely screwed on the corner. He could then flip it up and the other end had a notch that would catch on a screw that was mounted towards the other end of the bench. The board sat up about a 1/4 to 3/16 of an inch; just enough to catch a board. He used it as a sanding stop for a belt sander, but I'm thinking it would make a great plane stop too.
All said and tried I still like your version. I have a 71 and a homemade 71( .25" steel plate)but would like to have a wood type for general use. Grate pro and con video.
Interesting assessment. I think the simplicity of the iron on the Compass Rose plane is an advantage, although I can't imagine sharpening the supplied iron enough to need a replacement. I can order O1 steel bar to make a replacement iron, but I can't easily make a replacement for the Sellars' design. BTW, I haven't seen a Stanley 71 under $150 these past several months. Good video. Thank you.
I build the Paul Sellers one before he sold the kid. It's easy to get everything you need, Buti would have bought the kit to support him. It works great.
Great video. Agree with you all the way on the kits. They make very useful tools. If I am not mistaken Taytools also have a kit? I like the Stanley 71 1/2 (closed throat) version but even more so the Preston type router plane. But finding any of the latter, a vintage Preston or Tysack, or a Walke Moore Tools modern one is not that easy and affording to buy one might not be doable for most.
Lmaoo the last bit. Hmm I feel like Paul Seller's kit is beyond my skill level, but I really wanna try it. Think I'll just practice on softwood before buying hardwood for it. Thank you for this guide!
James, don't hold back.... Tell us what you REALLY think about that Stanley Slop.... 😁 A great head to head on all the features. I only did my first couple of shop made router planes about a year back. I used L style hex keys that I forged flatter and tapered using a soup can forge and propane torch. Hardened and tempered the forged ends after shaping. The body is a full height rear block with a 60° V to fit the hex keys. Then an added on front "shelf" to form the front of the bed. And a front strap clamp similar to Paul Seller's style for the front to pinch the hex back into the "V" slot. So very self aligning. This full height rear permits easily making the "V" slot on the table saw.... Don't judge me please... Adjusted with a tap and bump. I wish I'd done them years earlier. Crazy handy for way more than just slots.
I have been a follower of Paul Sellers for years, and am tempted to hit for his. Yet…. Yet…. I may go for Paul’s’ and Rex’s’. Mind you, I have no space to do any woodwork in a tiny apartment, so I would be buying the parts to add to my collection of tools for when I do get space.
I have the rex kruger kit, I need to put it together I may do a video of me fumbling along. Its my next project after i finish cleaning out my garage to get my shop back.
My impression was that the second notch in the cutter of the Paul Sellers plane was intended for use once the cutter has been sharpened so many times that it has become shorter.
James, what are your thoughts on the stainless steel Cowrayman router (made in the far east)? I bought one online a three years ago during first lockdown in the UK and couldn't get Veritas and it was before Sellers and Kruger were selling kits. I find cutters easy to sharpen just like a chisel and the stainless sole came flat and ready to use. Various width cutters are available.
Great concise comparison of pros and cons. As you say there's no perfect router for everyone, and even the simplest designs get the job done. I had plans to make one built around a Veritas cutter with hardware similar (though probably a lot less pretty) to James's planes. When Paul Sellers was putting out videos on the design, I think it was before he released the kit I set about designing a 3d printable one in a similar style. With same hold down mechanism, and similar concept for adjustment. I made mine so it could take a chisel as the cutter. It has worked well for me so far and doesn't require the skill to assemble like the Paul's design. I doubt James would care for it, he has expressed dislike for plastic tool parts in previous videos. Perhaps I should look into adding some slop to my adjustment mechanism, to see if I can use the same trick. I'm not sure if it would be a time saver or not, a quick quarter turn of my screw adjustment is about equivalent to a good shaving.
I’ve used Katz Moses and LN routers. KM’s handles awkwardly, but other than that it has all bells and whistles, LN 71 handles very well, but I really dislike the depth adjuster and the iron sharpening is too awkward for me, I guess it’s just getting use to it.
James, if some of us out here just HAD to have a right-angle cutter-ed router plane with a custom body shape, do you feel it'd be worthwhile to make a "thin" bodied base out of fancy plywood (baltic birch, hardwood, etc.)? Couldn't that open up DIY router planes to all kinds of orientations like that rectangular router plane that Paul Sellers made unavailable to hobbyists?
I bought my first router, by Veritas, about a year ago. I absolutely love it. I use it every time I cut tenons to get a perfect fit. I need to add a wider plexiglass base, though, as it can be a pain when tuning long tenons!
Hello, Mr. Wright; Thank you for this, for some reason I'm very interested in router planes, I don't know why. RE: Rex's router plane; why not start in the middle & plane both ways? I really hope you answer this. If I had a router plane I'd try it to see. Have a GREAT day, Neighbor! PS Your design looks really good. I'd make the hole oval & cut/drill a relief in from the front at a low angle, say 30 degrees.
If you start from the middle and work your way out the problem is you'll blow out the last fibers when you exit the dado. That message will work fine in a groove but anytime you're cutting across the grain you need something to support those last fibers.
I made a router plane, but even more cheap, but little more elbow greese. I used alan wrench as a blade - had to haet treat it tho, but that's not such a big issue
Many thanks for this, I love seeing comparisons done by someone with a brain... when I get them finished I'll send you one of my horse shoe router planes
Pask Makes has a different style of router plane also his channel on youtube is also Pask Makes. He has also made a steel and brass small block plane as well as a few other types planes in his scrap wood challenges.
I had no idea about the stanley adjusting trick. Mind blown.
Ditto. It was a true "DUH" moment for me. I went straight out to the shop, tried it and it works perfectly. Haha.
Paul or Rex… maybe both. Both of these guys have given us so much it is worth supporting them.
Have you seen Workshop Companion's one? He's got a few interesting ideas (acrylic?!) but he's a true man of the trade.
th-cam.com/video/q_jT-dl0DII/w-d-xo.html
The simplest router I ever saw was Roy Underhill's. Drive a flathead screw into a board, and file the flat head flatter until it has a cutting edge on it.
You can make a marking gauge that way too.
@@rickreed123and a beading tool ...lol
I made the Paul Sellers router - before the kit was produced. It works well and it taught me to make, harden (and temper) the blade myself so now I can make different width cutters myself 😊
Did the same and learnt A LOT!
I bought the Paul Sellers kit after watching his 'How to' videos. Following his instructional web pages made it really simple to complete. The most difficult bit was getting the 50° bedding angle, but again Paul's instructions provided the practical guidance I needed. Really like it.
13:14 Your problem there is that they aren't all in one routers. To get Wifi you need to add an Access Point to it 😉
You should try out a hex key router plane. Nick at Workshop Companion built one with a clear acrylic sole that’s very fascinating!
I went for the Paul Sellers kit after watching him on TH-cam. I’m only a beginner and although putting the kit together was a bit fiddly for my level, it worked out great if you are patient. I’ve used it a lot and it’s a great tool.
That tip about the Stanley was gold. I have one and could not work out why sometimes it set exactly right and sometimes not. Now I know. Thanks.
I made several variants (body length, cutter angle) of Paul Sellers' router plane before he started selling his kits. Once the first one was out of the way, and I figured out what I was doing, all the others went very smoothly. I really only stopped making them because I kinda thought that maybe I finally had enough router planes.
That's just wrong! You can never have too many planes or chisels or mallets or.. 😀😁🤣
It is nice to have at least two if they don't have a locking stop, then you can set one to the final depth, and creep up to that depth with the other one.
Your point about the slop in the Stanley 71 is really insightful. duh! The whole video is. I bought the Sellers kit because I can't justify spending the money for the Stanley. I still need to make the router, so thanks for the tips about setting the iron.
I made my Router Plane complete by myself. A Teakwood Body and a L-iron forged from a leaf spring. And it is really Beautifull 🥰
I have finally made the Paul Sellers router plane. I agree this did take some steps to get it all aligned properly, including having to make the angle holder twice until I had it made correctly. I really like the plane and it works very well.
I have a Stanley 71 without the depth adjuster. I put a playing card under each side, to adjust the depth of the blade. I set the router in place, put a playing card under the body below each knob, release the clamp, tighten the clamp after the blades drops, and then go to work. Before that I just eyeball it. I'd probably use something similar on Rex's plane instead of tapping.
I recently bought the Rex Kruger router. Works great!
I made my first, bought a veritas then found a 71. I keep different blades in them all and have a large base on the 71. I default to the 1/2” cutter in the veritas, it’s a beautiful tool and a pleasure to use.
Mine that I made recently is a combo of Rex/Paul poor man's with an open front.
I was fortunate enough to pick up an old Stanley 71 (Made in England) at a second hand stall on a street market for very little money. One blade, no forward skate. The beech handles had no paint left on them, but look great with a linseed oil and wax finish. I added the pointy blade and forward skate off the usual auction site later, and never felt the need of anything else. I've often looked at the Hag's Tooth types at vintage/antique stalls, but never fancied spending on them.
"That's one of my favorite pet peeves" 🤣
Thank you for making this video! It is wonderful to see the differences between the designs. "A jig for holding a chisel" seems so simple ; the design of the jig is paramount.
No matter the skill level, both kits look like they're going to be an immense amount of fun to build.
Few things feel better than working with a tool you made yourself! (And yes, I love my Record 071 too!)
Thanks James.
I have the Stanley 71 and I love it. I've also made a Paul Sellers designed router plane using Beech and I love that even more for two reasons. One, it feels light and more smooth being wood on wood. Secondly because I made it and that makes it even more satisfying.
What can we say? A very thoughtful comparison between two awesome folks. I don't think that either of them could find a complaint. I think that you described what their intentions were when they built their kits.
I bought the Paul sellers version. Used a scrap of oak an inch thick. Worked out great.
For an iron/chisel, look at Tay Tools. They have Naresh unhandled chisels for about $10 for premier steel. They are full hardness so if making Seller's router, need to use abrasive cutters to make notches instead of hardening after shaping.
Neat trick on the Stanley, I didn't know that. I have the KM, and have found I just turn the adjustment knob down the same number of degrees (depending on wood hardness) to get equivalent shavings; works for me.
I built the Paul Sellers one when he first released the build videos. I love it & I've done the same as you & left out the knobs, it just feels better in my hand.
James, good review. I bought a Stanley 71-1/2 in 2015 - before the price was driven up - for $62. Thank you for the adjustment tip. It will come in handy.
At 45 degree bed angle, depth of cut to adjustment is 1/sqrt(2) or sqrt(2)/2, 1.4142/2=0.7071, not half. I love my No 71s.
Also the reason the Boeing 707 is named the 707.
I made the one from Rex last week. It was dead simple to make, took about a day if you take into account shellacking it, and works perfectly. I have the Paul Sellers kit as well and am trying to decide which wood to use to create the body. I've been doing power tool hobby woodworking for a while but really prefer using human powered tools. Thanks for the information on making sure everything is absolutely to spec hardware wise when building the Paul Sellers router; being forewarned helps prevent frustration.
Mostly I use the one I adapted from the one you made. Rather than a bent iron I used a 5" piece of half inch keystock cut and filed to a 15° angle with a drilled and tapped hole in the middle. I'd picked up some of those"carving tools " from China at surplus outlets and flea markets and cut and shaped them into left and right skews, a spear point and 1/4-3/8-1/2" cutters. I've messed with a incannel gouge to for cleaning up blood grooves on cutting boards but I don't think I've gotten the angle right, to much tearout which is one of the things I was hoping to eliminate.
I built my own right before Rex released his kit. I still might buy the kit since it has two cutters.
I use a Veritas router for most bottom-of-groove clean up and anywhere I need a fence (think inlays referenced to an edge). I like the Veritas's angled knobs. For cleaning up tenon cheeks and similar operations I use a Stanley 71 with an asymmetric torrified maple base. For large-area or deep routing I use one of those tools with the spinning sharp thing on the bottom. (Flip the switch and hear it scream.)
Good video. I didn't know about the slop feature. But, it comes to mind about this video. A good woodworker with a TH-cam channel who likes to occasionally get on to his soap box has no soap box. I think we both have to correct this omission.
I am very lucky and just picked up a 71 for £60. Awesome. Enjoyed making a home grown router too. I love routers. And I don't get my signals crossed. LOL.
I made my own based loosely on James Hamilton's design. I bought two cutters from Lee Valley. The only thing I don't really like about it is having made the adjustment knob from a rod connector and a couple of washers. I would love to find the kind of adjustment knob that comes with Paul Sellers' kit. For the body, I laminated some walnut and mahogany. I may re-make the body a bit larger (longer) to have more reference surface.
I have made the Paul Sellers kit and had the same issue that the adjuster knob was off just a tad - a little hammer work sorted that out. I used ash so I did not try to use the drill to insert the screws a used two nuts to lock them. Overall a great router and I am going to get a second kit to make a longer bed on the left for tenon work as you have done.
Super helpful, thanks James! I wanna go with the Paul sellers kit because it looks snazzy and will give me a good challenge, but I also wanna support Rex and recognize that his is much more in line with my current skill level.
Hi James. I liked the comparison of the tools. I added features to cut circular designs. I mentioned this last October. Design near complete. I’ll email the pictures.
I lucked out and was gifted a Stanley 71 1/2 and I love it!! I agree I wish it had a little wider platform until I do smaller projects then I love its size. I have yet to see why I would need the open front of the 71. Maybe still to new to woodworking to realize it’s value. But I love your tenon router design. I want to make one from the Paul Sellers kit. But I am going to wait awhile before deciding if it’s necessary.
Thanks for hte comparison, I have one of Pul Seller's kits athome, but have not built it yet. I have been using an Admini router plane from Amazon, it works well, but has a small base. The plane also has the same feature, "slop", in the plane iron that you pointed out for the Stanley plane, that tip will help me the next time use the plane.
I made my own after watching Paul Sellers original build it looked nothing like his but works really well ,with an L shaped cutter.
I made a version of Stumpy Nubs' router plane using the Veritas blades. It is very similar to your vertical one.
I made the Stumpy Nubs w/ a Veritas cutter. Then I bought a Lie Nielsen large router and a Veritas medium. A widow's tooth version might be interesting to make.
Great Episode James! I feel the same way. I have a 71 1/2 that is just a great tool. When I have router work to do, I don't even think about it I just grab that one. I have made a few and love them but, they aren't my first choice. Thank you sir for the comparison and info!
I had the 71 but could not stand it. It was a pain to adjust (didn't know about the "slop"), so I sold the 71 and bought the Katz-Moses with the thin additional blades. I really like the craftsmanship and the tool is super easy to adjust.
I made the Rex Krueger plane. It is not quite as easy as it seams. Cutting the dado for the blade to fit in would be really easy - if you have a router plane. :) But using the instructions with a chisel and mallet, I was able to make it. Also, clamping it with the 45 degree angle is a challenge. The solution is to make a cradle to keep it from moving around. But even then, I had challenges. It would still move when I tried to use regular clamps. So I turned to a solution I have used for other tricky clamp operations - free weights. I just put a couple of 5 pound barbells over it to provide all of the clamping pressure I needed while only having to register it on one side.
Great comparison. Very informative. I owned a 71, in very good condition. Decided to try the Veritas. OMG what a difference. I couldn't sell the 71 fast enough. Sorry, but the ergonomics along with the fit and finish make the 71 seem almost crude in comparison. The info about the "slop" was something I'd never heard of before; fascinating but not enough to change my choice. Thanks for all you do.
I use an old wooden body router plane made in Denmark by a company called JPBO. I love using it!
I actually built my own. only bought the blade (i think it was a veritas L-shaped one) and built the body from scrap wood. Didn't like most of the one-screw böade locks, so came up with a two-screw one that works nicely for me. Would love to have a screw-based depth set, but a hammer works nicely enough.
Thanks, great video as always, I watched your "how to sharpen and use an 80/81" video earlier, it's great to see how you've become more comfortable in front of the camera.
It's nice to see how the different router planes compare, I need to make myself one like your offset one :)
I made a Paul Sellers Router plane but at the time the hardware was sold out so I made it myself. I used M6 stainless studding just screwed directly into an oak body (tapping drill size, a bit of wax, 2 nuts and just screwed them in) and it's all rock solid. I made the iron out of a 12mm HSS machine tool blank I had and I learnt that if you shape the cutout of the iron so the top and bottom of the cutout is curved and there's a small amount of relief at the back of the grove you can have it all very close fitting without the alignment being too important. I did the cutting out of the HSS blank using a dremel, it was too hard for files.
In the absence of a deep wooden body I think its good to have knobs on it. They make it much easier when pivoting around one end for cleaning up tenons. But its no biggie.
I've got an early Stanley 71 before they had the raised front. I love that router. It works very well. I cant speak to others because I only have the one
Wow, I saw my name! Great comparison. I learned a lot about hand routers. Keep the comparison videos coming.
Sounds like what you want is a Preston, bigger base than the 71. Paul Sellars has a couple of videos using it.
Yup those are fun.
It’s very easy and desirable to extend the sole forward on any of them. The vertical system is much better than the 45*. I find. I’ve not had much success making stuff with chisels at 45*. Too much chatter and protrusion leverage. I now have the Veritas and a neighbour gave me a Stanley. They both work fine, but you have to choose your wood. If I am not making good progress I reach for my Bosch. It leaves a better finish. I have an enlarged wooden base addition on my Veritas to stop the rocking motion. If I am doing tenons I place two end on side by side.
I guess the issue might be the chisel is not sharp enough. with a sharp one you should be able to do plane motion with free hand
suggestion:
You out to do a video about the wing dividers/drawing compass and all of the things you can do with it in the shop.
My Grandfather was a cabinet maker and shop teacher. On the end of his bench he had about a 16 inch board that was loosely screwed on the corner. He could then flip it up and the other end had a notch that would catch on a screw that was mounted towards the other end of the bench. The board sat up about a 1/4 to 3/16 of an inch; just enough to catch a board. He used it as a sanding stop for a belt sander, but I'm thinking it would make a great plane stop too.
All said and tried I still like your version. I have a 71 and a homemade 71( .25" steel plate)but would like to have a wood type for general use.
Grate pro and con video.
Interesting assessment. I think the simplicity of the iron on the Compass Rose plane is an advantage, although I can't imagine sharpening the supplied iron enough to need a replacement. I can order O1 steel bar to make a replacement iron, but I can't easily make a replacement for the Sellars' design. BTW, I haven't seen a Stanley 71 under $150 these past several months. Good video. Thank you.
Well occasionally come across them at mwtc meets for around 100 with one cutter but most the time they're about 120-140
Thank you for your opinion as I was wondering which would be good for me. I’m glad to know that the answer is all of them 👍
I build the Paul Sellers one before he sold the kid.
It's easy to get everything you need, Buti would have bought the kit to support him.
It works great.
Just ordered the Paul Sellers kit. Let’s see how that goes 👍👍
Great video. Agree with you all the way on the kits. They make very useful tools. If I am not mistaken Taytools also have a kit?
I like the Stanley 71 1/2 (closed throat) version but even more so the Preston type router plane. But finding any of the latter, a vintage Preston or Tysack, or a Walke Moore Tools modern one is not that easy and affording to buy one might not be doable for most.
Lmaoo the last bit.
Hmm I feel like Paul Seller's kit is beyond my skill level, but I really wanna try it. Think I'll just practice on softwood before buying hardwood for it.
Thank you for this guide!
To get more depth on the Paul Sellers one, turn the adjustment wheel upside down.
Thanks a bunch for the comparison and all the info, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
James, don't hold back.... Tell us what you REALLY think about that Stanley Slop.... 😁 A great head to head on all the features. I only did my first couple of shop made router planes about a year back. I used L style hex keys that I forged flatter and tapered using a soup can forge and propane torch. Hardened and tempered the forged ends after shaping. The body is a full height rear block with a 60° V to fit the hex keys. Then an added on front "shelf" to form the front of the bed. And a front strap clamp similar to Paul Seller's style for the front to pinch the hex back into the "V" slot. So very self aligning. This full height rear permits easily making the "V" slot on the table saw.... Don't judge me please... Adjusted with a tap and bump. I wish I'd done them years earlier. Crazy handy for way more than just slots.
Bruce Your design sounds intriguing. I wish I could see a pic
I have been a follower of Paul Sellers for years, and am tempted to hit for his. Yet…. Yet…. I may go for Paul’s’ and Rex’s’. Mind you, I have no space to do any woodwork in a tiny apartment, so I would be buying the parts to add to my collection of tools for when I do get space.
I have the rex kruger kit, I need to put it together I may do a video of me fumbling along. Its my next project after i finish cleaning out my garage to get my shop back.
My impression was that the second notch in the cutter of the Paul Sellers plane was intended for use once the cutter has been sharpened so many times that it has become shorter.
Even with it at full length sometimes I'll move it into the second slot because sometimes you need to reach down a little farther.
Now to decide which one I want to make...
Now that was just plane great!
Thanks James
James, what are your thoughts on the stainless steel Cowrayman router (made in the far east)? I bought one online a three years ago during first lockdown in the UK and couldn't get Veritas and it was before Sellers and Kruger were selling kits. I find cutters easy to sharpen just like a chisel and the stainless sole came flat and ready to use. Various width cutters are available.
I have never used it but from what I've heard it's a great way to get into it.
Great concise comparison of pros and cons. As you say there's no perfect router for everyone, and even the simplest designs get the job done.
I had plans to make one built around a Veritas cutter with hardware similar (though probably a lot less pretty) to James's planes. When Paul Sellers was putting out videos on the design, I think it was before he released the kit I set about designing a 3d printable one in a similar style. With same hold down mechanism, and similar concept for adjustment. I made mine so it could take a chisel as the cutter. It has worked well for me so far and doesn't require the skill to assemble like the Paul's design. I doubt James would care for it, he has expressed dislike for plastic tool parts in previous videos. Perhaps I should look into adding some slop to my adjustment mechanism, to see if I can use the same trick. I'm not sure if it would be a time saver or not, a quick quarter turn of my screw adjustment is about equivalent to a good shaving.
Bowing to the all powerful algorithm. Thanks James on making it all plain.
I’ve used Katz Moses and LN routers. KM’s handles awkwardly, but other than that it has all bells and whistles, LN 71 handles very well, but I really dislike the depth adjuster and the iron sharpening is too awkward for me, I guess it’s just getting use to it.
You might consider buying a Veritas cutter from Lee Valley. It is much simpler to sharpen and fits the Stanley router just fine.
James, if some of us out here just HAD to have a right-angle cutter-ed router plane with a custom body shape, do you feel it'd be worthwhile to make a "thin" bodied base out of fancy plywood (baltic birch, hardwood, etc.)? Couldn't that open up DIY router planes to all kinds of orientations like that rectangular router plane that Paul Sellers made unavailable to hobbyists?
I bought my first router, by Veritas, about a year ago. I absolutely love it. I use it every time I cut tenons to get a perfect fit.
I need to add a wider plexiglass base, though, as it can be a pain when tuning long tenons!
The difficulty starting at the edge turns me off a little bit to the hagstooth design router
Great video to take the best route
Thank you 🎉 Sir.
I have a stanley 71 that's not got the holes for extensions or attachments. It works for me.
Thanks
Woot Woot Thanks!
Hello, Mr. Wright;
Thank you for this, for some reason I'm very interested in router planes, I don't know why.
RE: Rex's router plane; why not start in the middle & plane both ways?
I really hope you answer this.
If I had a router plane I'd try it to see.
Have a GREAT day, Neighbor!
PS
Your design looks really good.
I'd make the hole oval & cut/drill a relief in from the front at a low angle, say 30 degrees.
If you start from the middle and work your way out the problem is you'll blow out the last fibers when you exit the dado. That message will work fine in a groove but anytime you're cutting across the grain you need something to support those last fibers.
Great comparison- thanks!
useful info in.a nice and concise, thank you!
I made a router plane, but even more cheap, but little more elbow greese. I used alan wrench as a blade - had to haet treat it tho, but that's not such a big issue
Great content as always! Keep it up and thank!
Fantastic video and explanation!
My veritas does have the slop, but has the same problem with the small(ish) body.
I so enjoy using the router plane!! ❤️
I picked up the Rex version. It looked to be my speed.
Many thanks for this, I love seeing comparisons done by someone with a brain... when I get them finished I'll send you one of my horse shoe router planes
Pask Makes has a different style of router plane also his channel on youtube is also Pask Makes. He has also made a steel and brass small block plane as well as a few other types planes in his scrap wood challenges.
Right on. I like his design. I also have about a dozen different router planes that I've made on here as well. There's a lot of them out there.
More like .7 as far at 45 degree, or 1 divided by sqrt 2.
Thank you for the insightful video