16:03...."and of course I'm not gonna have my screwdriver handy" Me: *waiting to see when you're gonna talk about those 2 no. 45 screwdrivers sitting on the bench* 🤣 another good video Michael 👍
I have a #5 with an aluminum tote, that I bought last year at an antique store. I haven't broken it down for refurb yet, but I'm excited to get into it and learn more about its type and all.
Very informative and interesting, ten thumbs up! One thing to mention regarding the type study articles out there - they typically deals with the no.4s made by Stanley in the USA. The ones made in England might conform to the studies for production dates but with a good pinch of salt. 😋
I have a No 3 that I was very confused about, because it has a rosewood tote with japanned knob and steel handle screws and a small steel depth adjustment nut that I now know is a type 17. Thanks for the knowledge!
I'm to slow to get all you said at one time.. This is my 3rd time watching it and I learn something every time. Can't be leave I wouldn't subscribed! But I am now, You had to do a lot of resurging to be able to do this video. Thank you
As a rule of thumb, once that I have decided to buy a tool (power or hand) in an estate sale, always spent a bit of time to look for accessories that might go with the tool! Tell the salespeople that "it goes with the tool" and they will likely let you have it. I haven't gotten a refusal yet.
I am 90% done restoring a No. 5 Bailey. I didn't know this wasn't really a model number. I think I have a type 17. It needed a lot of work. I stripped it down to flash rusting metal, re-Japanned blue instead of black, and have been flattening and squaring and sharpening and setting up properly. This plane must have needed tuning from whenever it was purchased, but was never done. I don't think the plane was used much but not really looked after either. The handles were blackened in areas, not sure if by design, but I sanded them cleaner and applied some redwood stain. I had to let the stain sit for some time to get good color after wiping off excess. I finished with varnish, but now think this a mistake. Tung oil and wax would probably have been better. I got a cheap set of diamond sharpening plates, and am amazed at how not flat, the back of the iron is...was. Actually just about everything needed some correction. This No.5 should be a fine working tool when I am done. I didn't know how old it was; just learning how to make them work.
That sounds like a great project. Doing that much work / tuning will help get you very familiar with the plane and you’ll be making wispy shavings in no time!
@@justplanefun Exactly, this is more work than it would cost to purchase a new one, ignoring collector value. I want to use it too. I now think my No.5 is type 16, after watching videos like yours more closely. I got looking in all the dark places in my very old house and shop, and found three cheap block planes, a plow plane with 5 different irons, a rabbit plane with no iron or wedge, a rotor plane, a wooden curved bottom and iron plane, and found parts of other planes. The plow is in great shape, I have restored two of the block planes, what I have of the rabbit plane is refinished. The rotor is a bit beat up but the brass is flat and this tool just needs a lot of cleaning. Since I was already distracted from doing other work, I dug out two old wooden and brass levels and am cleaning them up and treating with linseed oil. The Stanley, with adjustable level bubbles, is completely taken apart for full restoration. As to my No.5; I finished up yesterday with the iron sharpening, and reassembled it. I haven't tried it yet, but can see it is now a working tool. I have used planes before and was taught the basics long ago. Now I have a tool that I can learn to use well. I may still purchase a newer or better plane, but now I know what is what, and how to straighten up a new one too.
After further study. I see that my plane is a type 16, not 17. Even better. @@justplanefun I ran into an odd problem with my restoration. Wondering if others had this issue occur, and if anyone had an idea how to prevent it with any future restorations. After completing the plane restoration and after lots of drying time, both the tote and knob formed major cracks. These were not visible when sanding, staining or varnishing, or even during assembly. I removed the tote and easily snapped it cleanly in half. Glued and reassembled. I haven't fixed the knobs crack yet. Could my staining and varnishing have added stresses causing cracks? I would have expected the opposite.
I'm stumped. If I follow the flow chart my 14" plane is a type 3 or 4 but the frog receiver is not like pictures I've seen. The area between the attachment screws is flat making an H. That is the middle is the same height as the screw beds. The frog is not adjustable from the rear, "Made in USA" is raised in front of knob, no patents anywhere, the frog does have "C44" stamped on it. The tote has the usual long screw but also a small recess in front that fits over a nipple on the bed to help alignment I guess. Like the sweetheart S4 you show. The cap doesn't have any marking but has a recessed back. Handed down from my father-in-law and I wasn't smart enough to ask him where he got it. Any idea?
So I have a No.5 that I think is a type 5 (no raised knob on base and two pattens on lateral adjuster). So this thing likely dates late 1800's. My grandfather owned it and now I do and plan on using it fully. I've already let it sit in some vinegar to clean off all the rust, and the japanning has 50% left. I want to keep as much of its integrity and value while still being a functional tool. What should I do for a refurbish? Should I re-japan it?
It’s completely up to you on whether to re-Japan it or not. If you decide to go that route, I recommend checking out aplanelife.us Greg Ricketts can get you squared away with all of your jappaning needs, including pre-mix and even an instructional series on how to do it. Be sure to let me know if you need any parts for this or any other plane. As a side note, most vintage tool folks have gone away from vinegar now as it makes permanent changes to the metal. Evaporust is effective and even that is controversial in our little tool community. 😅
Just found your site because I am searching for sellers/makers of handles and knobs. Stanley here in Australia are steadily losing interest in supporting their heritage products. Can any one help? (we've been supporting Stanley planes to the component level for 30 years - The Wood Works in Sydney)
Do you have a contact email, nothing in the description. Just needed help identifying a plane. It's maroon. I did the online flow chart website but it said it was much older than all the information I've found elsewhere. Stanley no 6. Made in USA, has raised ring around the knob but also has a steel adjustment wheel. Flow chart said around the 40s,other things I read about the color had it in the 60s or 70s.. thank you!
Love You're Great Video Sir, and I'm hoping you could help me out. I've had an old hand planer my grandfather give me years ago when I was a teenager starting to get into woodworking with him. He told me it was given to him by his grandfather who he himself was an very established wood craftsman in his day. Now his grandfather told him it was one of Stanley's first hand planers ever built. That's where I need help. After doing my own research, I've found nothing other than while it looks almost exactly like the Type 19 Stanley p[ane, it doesn't say Stanley anywhere I can see, just No.5 on the plane base in front of the knob and nothing on the lever cap. The knob is a low profile while the handle has (2) screws, which I rarely see looking at images of older planes. Also, it has a 1" brass adjuster. Any help Sir, would be appreciated. Gary
The 3 & 4 are generally the same size. There may be a strain of 3s out there (tall) that had a slightly smaller one than the 4. 5s will also typically fit 4 1/2s and 5 1/2s though. No6 tall knob may be a shade taller. As the planes get bigger, it’s tougher to tell apart the sizes, if there’s a difference at all
That sounds intriguing. I’ve toyed around with the idea of doing a TH-cam live event. What I really need is a co-host and/or a guest though. Who wants to fly to VA for a night? 😅 Will Walker? Bring some of that Bailey Victor stuff for a visit!
You have some serious depth of knowledge! Thank you
16:03...."and of course I'm not gonna have my screwdriver handy"
Me: *waiting to see when you're gonna talk about those 2 no. 45 screwdrivers sitting on the bench*
🤣 another good video Michael 👍
Awesome, I am headed out to the local Flea Markets this weekend to try and score some older planes, this video really helped me . Thank You.
That’s outstanding. Let me know how it goes! (Or how it went)
I have a #5 with an aluminum tote, that I bought last year at an antique store. I haven't broken it down for refurb yet, but I'm excited to get into it and learn more about its type and all.
Thanks Michael. Very informative !
Great info! Thanks for drilling deep into some of the mystery.
It’s truly my pleasure
Very informative and interesting, ten thumbs up!
One thing to mention regarding the type study articles out there - they typically deals with the no.4s made by Stanley in the USA. The ones made in England might conform to the studies for production dates but with a good pinch of salt. 😋
I have a No 3 that I was very confused about, because it has a rosewood tote with japanned knob and steel handle screws and a small steel depth adjustment nut that I now know is a type 17. Thanks for the knowledge!
Excellent! Glad the video was helpful 🙏🏻
Great information. Thank you.
Thank *You!
I'm to slow to get all you said at one time.. This is my 3rd time watching it and I learn something every time. Can't be leave I wouldn't subscribed! But I am now, You had to do a lot of resurging to be able to do this video. Thank you
Thanks for watching! This is one of my more successful videos. Might be time to make a similar one, with all new material
Awesome video brother! Keep it up!
Thank you 🙏🏻
As a rule of thumb, once that I have decided to buy a tool (power or hand) in an estate sale, always spent a bit of time to look for accessories that might go with the tool! Tell the salespeople that "it goes with the tool" and they will likely let you have it. I haven't gotten a refusal yet.
Agreed. I’ve been able to pull parts out of drawers and pair them with planes that were located elsewhere in the shop or garage before
Thank you, MJ!
Thank you for making this video , very helpful
I’m glad you liked it!
My 5 1/2 bedrock has the lever cap engraved and it's a type 5 1911 first gen flat side
thanks for the info
Good to know on the S4 tote.
Could you talk about the oddball screw threads Stanley used and possible sources for thread repair tools. Taps and dies in particular?
Check out aplanelife.us for information on taps and dies.
@@justplanefun Thanks much! Great site with much information available!
Great info, as always. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
I am 90% done restoring a No. 5 Bailey. I didn't know this wasn't really a model number. I think I have a type 17. It needed a lot of work. I stripped it down to flash rusting metal, re-Japanned blue instead of black, and have been flattening and squaring and sharpening and setting up properly. This plane must have needed tuning from whenever it was purchased, but was never done. I don't think the plane was used much but not really looked after either. The handles were blackened in areas, not sure if by design, but I sanded them cleaner and applied some redwood stain. I had to let the stain sit for some time to get good color after wiping off excess. I finished with varnish, but now think this a mistake. Tung oil and wax would probably have been better.
I got a cheap set of diamond sharpening plates, and am amazed at how not flat, the back of the iron is...was. Actually just about everything needed some correction.
This No.5 should be a fine working tool when I am done. I didn't know how old it was; just learning how to make them work.
That sounds like a great project. Doing that much work / tuning will help get you very familiar with the plane and you’ll be making wispy shavings in no time!
@@justplanefun Exactly, this is more work than it would cost to purchase a new one, ignoring collector value. I want to use it too.
I now think my No.5 is type 16, after watching videos like yours more closely.
I got looking in all the dark places in my very old house and shop, and found three cheap block planes, a plow plane with 5 different irons, a rabbit plane with no iron or wedge, a rotor plane, a wooden curved bottom and iron plane, and found parts of other planes. The plow is in great shape, I have restored two of the block planes, what I have of the rabbit plane is refinished. The rotor is a bit beat up but the brass is flat and this tool just needs a lot of cleaning.
Since I was already distracted from doing other work, I dug out two old wooden and brass levels and am cleaning them up and treating with linseed oil. The Stanley, with adjustable level bubbles, is completely taken apart for full restoration.
As to my No.5; I finished up yesterday with the iron sharpening, and reassembled it. I haven't tried it yet, but can see it is now a working tool. I have used planes before and was taught the basics long ago. Now I have a tool that I can learn to use well.
I may still purchase a newer or better plane, but now I know what is what, and how to straighten up a new one too.
After further study. I see that my plane is a type 16, not 17. Even better. @@justplanefun
I ran into an odd problem with my restoration. Wondering if others had this issue occur, and if anyone had an idea how to prevent it with any future restorations. After completing the plane restoration and after lots of drying time, both the tote and knob formed major cracks. These were not visible when sanding, staining or varnishing, or even during assembly. I removed the tote and easily snapped it cleanly in half. Glued and reassembled. I haven't fixed the knobs crack yet.
Could my staining and varnishing have added stresses causing cracks? I would have expected the opposite.
As an user, I still like the history and have a more valuable tool. If I see a valuable tool and the price is right I will sell it lol.
Good info. I wish I had seen this video about 10 planes ago. 😉
I hear ya. My goal is to make videos I wish i had been able to watch when I started out
I'm stumped. If I follow the flow chart my 14" plane is a type 3 or 4 but the frog receiver is not like pictures I've seen. The area between the attachment screws is flat making an H. That is the middle is the same height as the screw beds. The frog is not adjustable from the rear, "Made in USA" is raised in front of knob, no patents anywhere, the frog does have "C44" stamped on it. The tote has the usual long screw but also a small recess in front that fits over a nipple on the bed to help alignment I guess. Like the sweetheart S4 you show. The cap doesn't have any marking but has a recessed back. Handed down from my father-in-law and I wasn't smart enough to ask him where he got it. Any idea?
Send some pics to jplanefun@gmail.com and I’ll take a look.
I do need a Tote rod for a No. 6 Stanley. The old one is wasted away with rust. Is there a web site for your store. How can I reach you? Thanks, Tom
You can find me on Facebook at Just Plane Fun - the parts division.
If you’re not on FB, feel free to email me at jplanefun@gmail.com
I replied to your email
So I have a No.5 that I think is a type 5 (no raised knob on base and two pattens on lateral adjuster). So this thing likely dates late 1800's. My grandfather owned it and now I do and plan on using it fully. I've already let it sit in some vinegar to clean off all the rust, and the japanning has 50% left. I want to keep as much of its integrity and value while still being a functional tool. What should I do for a refurbish? Should I re-japan it?
It’s completely up to you on whether to re-Japan it or not. If you decide to go that route, I recommend checking out aplanelife.us
Greg Ricketts can get you squared away with all of your jappaning needs, including pre-mix and even an instructional series on how to do it.
Be sure to let me know if you need any parts for this or any other plane.
As a side note, most vintage tool folks have gone away from vinegar now as it makes permanent changes to the metal. Evaporust is effective and even that is controversial in our little tool community. 😅
Just found your site because I am searching for sellers/makers of handles and knobs. Stanley here in Australia are steadily losing interest in supporting their heritage products. Can any one help? (we've been supporting Stanley planes to the component level for 30 years - The Wood Works in Sydney)
Shoot me an email at jplanefun@gmail.com and we can probably work something out
Do you have a contact email, nothing in the description. Just needed help identifying a plane. It's maroon. I did the online flow chart website but it said it was much older than all the information I've found elsewhere. Stanley no 6. Made in USA, has raised ring around the knob but also has a steel adjustment wheel. Flow chart said around the 40s,other things I read about the color had it in the 60s or 70s.. thank you!
You can contact me at jplanefun@gmail.com
Nice info. Since you mentioned the no. 78 and missing fences and depth gauges are any of those parts available out there somewhere?
Be sure to check out my latest video all about No78s. I have fences available but I’m currently zero balance on depth stops (as of 14 Dec 2021)
@@justplanefun
Yeah, I went to your YT home page and found that video. Ironic. Good timing.
Once things slow down at my real job, I’m going to get the sequel done and uploaded. More on Stanley rabbet planes coming!
Love You're Great Video Sir, and I'm hoping you could help me out. I've had an old hand planer my grandfather give me years ago when I was a teenager starting to get into woodworking with him. He told me it was given to him by his grandfather who he himself was an very established wood craftsman in his day. Now his grandfather told him it was one of Stanley's first hand planers ever built. That's where I need help. After doing my own research, I've found nothing other than while it looks almost exactly like the Type 19 Stanley p[ane, it doesn't say Stanley anywhere I can see, just No.5 on the plane base in front of the knob and nothing on the lever cap. The knob is a low profile while the handle has (2) screws, which I rarely see looking at images of older planes. Also, it has a 1" brass adjuster. Any help Sir, would be appreciated. Gary
Shoot me some pics of it - jplanefun@gmail.com
Will do@@justplanefun
@@justplanefun Pics have been sent. Thanks
Hi, How can I see what you have for sale?
The best place to find me is on Facebook. Just Plane Fun - the parts division
How would I access your for sale items? Do you have a web site or just the Facebook account?
No website yet. I mainly sell from my FB page and have some items listed on eBay.
What are you in the market for?
Is there a difference between a #5 and a #4 tall knob, in size?
Yes
The 3 & 4 are generally the same size. There may be a strain of 3s out there (tall) that had a slightly smaller one than the 4.
5s will also typically fit 4 1/2s and 5 1/2s though. No6 tall knob may be a shade taller. As the planes get bigger, it’s tougher to tell apart the sizes, if there’s a difference at all
@@justplanefun thank you! Very helpful.
I say do a live Q&A session when you hit 1000 subs!
That sounds intriguing. I’ve toyed around with the idea of doing a TH-cam live event. What I really need is a co-host and/or a guest though. Who wants to fly to VA for a night? 😅
Will Walker? Bring some of that Bailey Victor stuff for a visit!