Thank you for the little bit about the slop in the adjuster screw. I always thought of it as a manufacturing defect. no more frustrating fiddling adjustments.
I'm a power tool user but my Veritas router gets used on EVERY project that has tenons; it's just a joy to use and makes sneaking up on the perfect M&T joint a breeze.
Thanks James. I always learn something new. I searched and searched for a Stanley without luck. When Rockler put the Bench Dogs on sale for less than a $100, I snapped one up. It's very nice and works well. Comes with a fence and one cutter.
Building a router plane has been rising to the top of my list for a while now. Especially for tenon. Picking a design will be an adventure all by itself.
I am a power tool junkie but I recently got a router plane and I love it. Table saw dado blades sometimes don't cut a uniform depth. The router plane can make corrections in a hurry.🙂🙂
I'm hybrid woodworker, and probably most frequent use of my router planes is to clean up the crappy surface you get on the bottom of a dado etc cut with a table saw. I don't tend to use a router for that purpose, and take saws leave even worse bottom, but the router plane cleans it up fast and easy.
Very well designed tool. I bit the bullet a few tears ago and spoiled myself with a Lie Nielsen closed mouth router plane. The fit and finish is unsurpassed and is a joy to use.
Useful stuff, James. It is pretty amazing how quickly the price of router planes has risen the past couple of years. I have a Stanley No. 71 I bought about five years ago - but I never realized there were attachments beyond the different size cutters. Thanks.
Great Video, thanks. When doing tenon work, I like to have the boards overlength, cut the tenon portion out like a big groove and the extra length on the board end I can use as a second reference for the router plane. It is similar to the "use another piece of wood" technique, but it is attached to the board. Then when you are done, cut the tenon to length
I appreciate all your content. I've only been seriously involved in hand tool woodworking for about a year and your helping me get caught up on what I need to know to get by and to get out of a jam building furniture.
The Veritas plane has solved both of the problems that you noted. The sharpening has an arm that attaches in the Sam way used the vise grips. The fence is about two and a half or three inches long and has mounting holes if you want to add more length much like adding a larger base. It’s a fun tool. Probably my favorite one in the shop.
A while back I went onto the Stanley website looking for a 71., they had nothing so I contacted Stanley and asked where I could get one. They don’t make them anymore. It seems that they have turned away from making router planes anymore.?????Rob Cosman put out a video comparing the Lee Neilson to a Bench Dog. The two are basically identical so I bought a bench dog. It came in the mail yesterday and I cant wait to get it set up. Love the channel James.
Yeah, Stanley hasn't made most of their hand tools in 40 years. And the ones they're making now are okay but not great. But most specialty planes they haven't made in 50 years
@@WoodByWrightHowTo What they do make is good but they have stepped away from wooden handles on the planes. They went with a molded plastic that just feels wrong. Good thing we're woodworkers and can remedy those issues ourselves. Thanks for the reply James.
love my old stanley router plane and i also added a veritas medium which is great for small hinges and locks. the veritas medium also uses the same veritas and stanley blades ps, like the "logo" on the tshirt!
I just bought a new Veritas not happy with the quality the 1/4 inch bit was binding I had to modify it wasn't machined properly. Also I just sharpened mine and my fingers are worn out from the Dimond stone I made a jig to hold it for next time the one that came with it is junk doesn't hold the bit square. Great video.
Paul Sellers teamed with a machine shop in the UK to produce router plane hardware kits so people can make their own without having to worry about any of the metal working (hardening, annealing, etc.). It may be of interest. And thanks for the info, great video as always!
Boy, do I have a bone to pick with you! After your last video about the Veritas jack plane, I ask you a question about what planes you would recommend to a power tool guy in the range of $200 - $300 and you were kind enough to steer me in the right direction. Long story short and a $1,000+ later. I am now in possession of 5 Veritas planes and still looking for more of your videos of how to use them! Thanks for your advice and the "how to's" I've found so far. If you would be so kind, would you reference me to your videos on the block plane, shoulder plane, & small bevel up smooth plane.Thanks for all the advice and instruction so far. Excellent job of teaching. Bruce
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I understand this. This was a sorry attempt at humor. I talked to some other hand tool guys and they all agreed with your recommendations and prepared me for the strain on the pocketbook. A few of them hadn't heard of your channel and will be watching you now. Thanks again! F.Y.I., I am already $25K into my shop in power tools so I was fully prepared to spend more to try an complete it. My wife doesn't mind (it keeps me where she knows I am!) and it's a great way to teach my Grand children how to build something instead of sitting in front of a computer playing some video game.
Veritas router plane blades are a little longer than antique Stanley’s. On some made in England ones, the blade can’t fully retract into body. You can either add a wood bottom, or sometimes flip the blade adjustment nut with its flange on top to retract the blade more.
Thanks James, another information video. I have that router plane and Veritas irons. They are a little long for the Stanley 71 and even turning the depth knob upside down still Veritas irons long
I generally use my table saw for cutting grooves and dadoes, but my blades don't produce a flat surface. This would be a great tool to sort out the problem.
I use the 1/4" from time to time. it is rare, but when it is needed nothing else will work. I would say order one when you find you have a project for it. that might never come.
Built my own from walnut and mahogany. Bought two irons from Lee Valley. Still haven't put handles on it, but I don't really seem to need them. I might make another one with a larger base. I used the plan, sort of, from Stumpy Nubs. I've never been really happy with the way the iron adjusts. It just isn't as smooth as I would like. All in all, it beat the heck out of paying $200 to $300 for one.
Unrelated question.... Do you know if a spur and screw from a Stanley no. 78 will fit a Stanley no. 45.? I found new spurs/screws for the 78 but not the 45... Thanks...
Some of them will and some of them won't. Both of them changed over time. Most of them were the four-point star shape but some of them were the vertical hot dog shape.
My pointy cutter is a 90 degree angle and rides the back of the iron and doesn’t cut. The 1/2” cutter is at an angle so the cutting edge digs into the wood. Is this the wrong cutter for a 71? Thanks I learned several things.
I'm a bit confused. Feel free to send me pictures in an email. You can find my email address on the about tab on the TH-cam channel page or the contact me form on my website. I don't know how the iron can dig in if it's locked down well in the plane. Usually that means it's just set a little bit too deep.
I have the Record version, but I do have one problem. When I set the cutting depth, I loosen the collar and start turning the wheel, but the collar ends up jamming against the cutter. When I adjust, the collar ends up tilting and everything jams up.
Always learn something watching your videos. A few questions: 1. I came across somewhere that router plane is for cross grain(dadoes) whereas a plough/combination plane is for along grain(grooves). What prevents us from using router for grooves then? 2. Can we use router and plough planes on plywood? Will the criss cross pattern of grains and the adhesive layer cause any problems. (I am planning to build a few drawers for my garage cabinets using only hand tools. I am wondering if I must use only solid wood or if it may be okay to use plywood. And yes dovetails too!. Thanks
A router plane isn't great for making grooves or dadoes. It is great for either of them to clean up the very bottom. But it doesn't have a spur or a knicker to cut as a fibers when going across the grain. You can use plywood. You just have to treat it as always. Cutting across the grain. In that case, using a dado plane. Or if you have a plow plane with spurs or knickers on it that will do the trick.
I've used my router plane as a marking gauge before. It was on the bench and I was too lazy to go get my actual marking gauge so I just set up the blade on my router and marked a line on the wood.
Great video. I keep hoping someone will do a video reviewing those cheaper Cowryman, Admini, and Vevor router planes. I wonder if they work better than they look.
I tend to set mine to depth then use it as a marking gauge as well as for Final Cut then I know every piece in a batch of joints is exactly the same depth
I’ve not used his kit, but I have built the latest iteration of router plane that Paul Sellers has taught about. Great design, easy to build, and quite a few lessons are learned.
The kit is very good for those that struggle with the metal work side, or are just too lazy like me! Would recommend. Although I'm in the UK so postage was inexpensive.
Hi James. Great video. My brother was just telling me about using a router plane to flatten the surface of a board? Is this a practical application for any situation you can think of? 🤔 Would it actually work? As always, I appreciate all you do.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo theoretically you could by using 2 identical thickness runners, one on each side, and running the router (or router with wider additional baseplate attached) over them. Basically a manual version of a power router slab flattening setup. I don't think I'd do it, at least not for any more than hitting a few little high spots, but might be ok after getting it close with hand planes.
Did anyone mention that it can be used as a marking gauge? If you have multiple router planes you can use to make the final mark, set it aside, use the other to hog out a majority of the waste and then use the original for the final pass right at the mark.
Making A router plane: th-cam.com/play/PLS6RUJT0uVFuH0JkiB5iaHe2sOJVcDmmO.html
Cool, never realised you could put the blade out front to get tight into a space - thank you.
I just ordered the KM-17 online, and I can't wait to get it. I had no idea how handy a router plane could be. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you for the little bit about the slop in the adjuster screw. I always thought of it as a manufacturing defect. no more frustrating fiddling adjustments.
For a homemade router plane I screwed a carbide insert onto the end of a piece of 1/2" threaded rod. Works great.
I'm a power tool user but my Veritas router gets used on EVERY project that has tenons; it's just a joy to use and makes sneaking up on the perfect M&T joint a breeze.
hand routers are slow, but getting comfortable getting as close as possible to your line and then fine tuning with a router is a life saver
Thanks James. I always learn something new. I searched and searched for a Stanley without luck. When Rockler put the Bench Dogs on sale for less than a $100, I snapped one up. It's very nice and works well. Comes with a fence and one cutter.
I don’t use my router plane nearly enough, this vid has inspired me to get it out of its box and get levelling - grazie James
Building a router plane has been rising to the top of my list for a while now. Especially for tenon. Picking a design will be an adventure all by itself.
Very practical to know you're not going to have to sharpen often. Makes this tool less intimidating.
I am a power tool junkie but I recently got a router plane and I love it. Table saw dado blades sometimes don't cut a uniform depth. The router plane can make corrections in a hurry.🙂🙂
I'm hybrid woodworker, and probably most frequent use of my router planes is to clean up the crappy surface you get on the bottom of a dado etc cut with a table saw. I don't tend to use a router for that purpose, and take saws leave even worse bottom, but the router plane cleans it up fast and easy.
Half lap joints roughed out with the bandsaw, finished with a router plane. Works for me.
Very well designed tool. I bit the bullet a few tears ago and spoiled myself with a Lie Nielsen closed mouth router plane. The fit and finish is unsurpassed and is a joy to use.
It is my favorite tool. Sometimes I use it when not really nessasary just because I like using it.
I carry an old Stanley 271 in my power tool toolbox as it is just so useful!
I like the long offset idea for tenons
Oh, the adjustment thing you showed is fantastic! Now I want to find an excuse to use my router plane so I can try it!
Thanks for all the tips, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Good tips.....this is def one of the most useful tools in any shop regardless of power or hand tools.
Love my Veritas router plane.
Love your intellect comedic shirts, calc and negative roots are i’s favorite examples.
Very useful video - especially regarding adjustment of the cutter.
Useful stuff, James. It is pretty amazing how quickly the price of router planes has risen the past couple of years. I have a Stanley No. 71 I bought about five years ago - but I never realized there were attachments beyond the different size cutters. Thanks.
Another fantastic video
Very helpful thanks for sharing!
Very helpful! Thanks.
Enjoyed this video. I inherited a Stanley 71 and 271. I got a blade for my 271 from Veritas.
Thank you for sharing your experience. I always look forward to seeing your videos.
I love my bought router plane, looking forward to making one too
Thank you, Mr. Wright!
Thanks for sharing!
Love the one sided router - I’ll be looking up your old videos to see how to make one.
Ken from Southport UK
Thanks James
Happy to comment down below
I ended up with two cutters for one of these at some point, now I need to make one of these!
Thanks for sharing!!
Thanks James! I love the router plane - it's one of my favorite tools in the shop. I think I design joinery specifically so I can use it. ;)
Waiting on my first Bench Dog router plane for a shelving project I've been working on will let you know how it works. Great video &keep them coming
Love my router planes! Among the most useful tools in my shop.
Hi, please check Record's router plane manual on how to use the "depth stop" feature. The Stanley's manual was not very clear. Thanks.
I really need to get one of these
Great explanations. Thank you.
That was helpful. Thanks Mr. Wright!
Great Video, thanks. When doing tenon work, I like to have the boards overlength, cut the tenon portion out like a big groove and the extra length on the board end I can use as a second reference for the router plane. It is similar to the "use another piece of wood" technique, but it is attached to the board. Then when you are done, cut the tenon to length
That just blew my mind! Thanks for the tip
excellent video!
I have one and have used it for years. Very good explanation. Keep it up.
Honestly, my router planes are among my favourite tools. And among the easiest to use.
Great stuff! Once I'm done with my bench build, I'll be focusing on making tools and a router plane will be near the top of my list.
You're welcome!
Hi James, thanks for sharing your skills.
I appreciate all your content. I've only been seriously involved in hand tool woodworking for about a year and your helping me get caught up on what I need to know to get by and to get out of a jam building furniture.
The Veritas plane has solved both of the problems that you noted. The sharpening has an arm that attaches in the Sam way used the vise grips. The fence is about two and a half or three inches long and has mounting holes if you want to add more length much like adding a larger base. It’s a fun tool. Probably my favorite one in the shop.
Thanks for the ideas.
A while back I went onto the Stanley website looking for a 71., they had nothing so I contacted Stanley and asked where I could get one. They don’t make them anymore. It seems that they have turned away from making router planes anymore.?????Rob Cosman put out a video comparing the Lee Neilson to a Bench Dog. The two are basically identical so I bought a bench dog. It came in the mail yesterday and I cant wait to get it set up.
Love the channel James.
Yeah, Stanley hasn't made most of their hand tools in 40 years. And the ones they're making now are okay but not great. But most specialty planes they haven't made in 50 years
@@WoodByWrightHowTo What they do make is good but they have stepped away from wooden handles on the planes. They went with a molded plastic that just feels wrong. Good thing we're woodworkers and can remedy those issues ourselves.
Thanks for the reply James.
love my old stanley router plane and i also added a veritas medium which is great for small hinges and locks. the veritas medium also uses the same veritas and stanley blades
ps, like the "logo" on the tshirt!
Good one thanks
Thanks!
bin looking for one of those routers. Do you have to flatten the bottom of a old rusted yard sale on? ... OORAH!!
no routers to not need to be crazy flat, just flat enough. as long as they do not rock on a flat surface they are good.
If you are routing more than one tenon put them on end together to have two surfaces to bear on. That way you avoid tilting
Thanks
I confess I learned this from Paul Sellers, but I like using a router plane as a marking gauge.
I just bought a new Veritas not happy with the quality the 1/4 inch bit was binding I had to modify it wasn't machined properly. Also I just sharpened mine and my fingers are worn out from the Dimond stone I made a jig to hold it for next time the one that came with it is junk doesn't hold the bit square. Great video.
Paul Sellers teamed with a machine shop in the UK to produce router plane hardware kits so people can make their own without having to worry about any of the metal working (hardening, annealing, etc.). It may be of interest. And thanks for the info, great video as always!
It has a straight blade instead of the L shaped. It should be easier to sharpen. I wonder if it cuts better for grooves?
Thank you!
Awesome tips, thanks James!
Boy, do I have a bone to pick with you!
After your last video about the Veritas jack plane, I ask you a question about what planes you would recommend to a power tool guy in the range of $200 - $300 and you were kind enough to steer me in the right direction. Long story short and a $1,000+ later. I am now in possession of 5 Veritas planes and still looking for more of your videos of how to use them! Thanks for your advice and the "how to's" I've found so far.
If you would be so kind, would you reference me to your videos on the block plane, shoulder plane, & small bevel up smooth plane.Thanks for all the advice and instruction so far. Excellent job of teaching.
Bruce
Sorry man this channel is not good for the pocket book.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Few of them are.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo I understand this. This was a sorry attempt at humor.
I talked to some other hand tool guys and they all agreed with your recommendations and prepared me for the strain on the pocketbook. A few of them hadn't heard of your channel and will be watching you now.
Thanks again!
F.Y.I., I am already $25K into my shop in power tools so I was fully prepared to spend more to try an complete it. My wife doesn't mind (it keeps me where she knows I am!) and it's a great way to teach my Grand children how to build something instead of sitting in front of a computer playing some video game.
You're right about the cost of a vtg. Stanley, rout that enemy!
thank you
Veritas router plane blades are a little longer than antique Stanley’s. On some made in England ones, the blade can’t fully retract into body. You can either add a wood bottom, or sometimes flip the blade adjustment nut with its flange on top to retract the blade more.
Awesome video, thanks!
Thanks James, another information video. I have that router plane and Veritas irons. They are a little long for the Stanley 71 and even turning the depth knob upside down still Veritas irons long
Yeah. A lot of people will either cut another notch in the blade or they'll put a wooden sole on the bottom.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo Ah, du, both good alternatives.
good video
I generally use my table saw for cutting grooves and dadoes, but my blades don't produce a flat surface. This would be a great tool to sort out the problem.
How useful are the thinner cutters? If you only had the half inch and spear cutters, would it be worth trying to find a quarter inch cutter?
I use the 1/4" from time to time. it is rare, but when it is needed nothing else will work. I would say order one when you find you have a project for it. that might never come.
Built my own from walnut and mahogany. Bought two irons from Lee Valley. Still haven't put handles on it, but I don't really seem to need them. I might make another one with a larger base. I used the plan, sort of, from Stumpy Nubs. I've never been really happy with the way the iron adjusts. It just isn't as smooth as I would like. All in all, it beat the heck out of paying $200 to $300 for one.
Thanks.
Surprising how often I use my router planes.. I have 2 Stanley 71's, a mini Veritas and a Stanley 271. Each one is setup for different jobs.
thank you! Good info.
Unrelated question.... Do you know if a spur and screw from a Stanley no. 78 will fit a Stanley no. 45.? I found new spurs/screws for the 78 but not the 45... Thanks...
Some of them will and some of them won't. Both of them changed over time. Most of them were the four-point star shape but some of them were the vertical hot dog shape.
Awesome
With the long wood router how do you cut in from either side of the tenon to prevent blow out?
Flip the iron
My pointy cutter is a 90 degree angle and rides the back of the iron and doesn’t cut. The 1/2” cutter is at an angle so the cutting edge digs into the wood. Is this the wrong cutter for a 71? Thanks I learned several things.
I'm a bit confused. Feel free to send me pictures in an email. You can find my email address on the about tab on the TH-cam channel page or the contact me form on my website. I don't know how the iron can dig in if it's locked down well in the plane. Usually that means it's just set a little bit too deep.
Discovered the router plane a few years ago, wonder how I got along without it.
I have the Record version, but I do have one problem. When I set the cutting depth, I loosen the collar and start turning the wheel, but the collar ends up jamming against the cutter. When I adjust, the collar ends up tilting and everything jams up.
go for it.
I love my router but I do have a question I can’t seem to find , is the Stanley 71 bigger than the 71 1/2?
No. They are the same footprint. They just have a different mouth.
Always learn something watching your videos. A few questions:
1. I came across somewhere that router plane is for cross grain(dadoes) whereas a plough/combination plane is for along grain(grooves). What prevents us from using router for grooves then?
2. Can we use router and plough planes on plywood? Will the criss cross pattern of grains and the adhesive layer cause any problems.
(I am planning to build a few drawers for my garage cabinets using only hand tools. I am wondering if I must use only solid wood or if it may be okay to use plywood. And yes dovetails too!.
Thanks
A router plane isn't great for making grooves or dadoes. It is great for either of them to clean up the very bottom. But it doesn't have a spur or a knicker to cut as a fibers when going across the grain.
You can use plywood. You just have to treat it as always. Cutting across the grain. In that case, using a dado plane. Or if you have a plow plane with spurs or knickers on it that will do the trick.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo thanks! Always valuable. I may decide to use solid wood as I am a beginner and will want to keep it simple for me🙂
My favourite planes. I have a few.
I've used my router plane as a marking gauge before. It was on the bench and I was too lazy to go get my actual marking gauge so I just set up the blade on my router and marked a line on the wood.
Great video. I keep hoping someone will do a video reviewing those cheaper Cowryman, Admini, and Vevor router planes. I wonder if they work better than they look.
I tend to set mine to depth then use it as a marking gauge as well as for Final Cut then I know every piece in a batch of joints is exactly the same depth
Have you got expirience with the katz moses router plane?
I have played with it but I do not own it. Maybe someday.
What are your thoughts on the Katz-Moses router plane?
I have not had a chance to play with one yet.
I use the plane to mount hinges
I’ve not used his kit, but I have built the latest iteration of router plane that Paul Sellers has taught about. Great design, easy to build, and quite a few lessons are learned.
The kit is very good for those that struggle with the metal work side, or are just too lazy like me! Would recommend. Although I'm in the UK so postage was inexpensive.
Where can I buy the depth stem and shoe for a Stanley 71
Check out the list of trusted online sellers on www.handtoolfinder.com most of them have parts.
Hi James. Great video. My brother was just telling me about using a router plane to flatten the surface of a board? Is this a practical application for any situation you can think of? 🤔 Would it actually work?
As always, I appreciate all you do.
I do not see how you could flatten a board with a router plane.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo theoretically you could by using 2 identical thickness runners, one on each side, and running the router (or router with wider additional baseplate attached) over them. Basically a manual version of a power router slab flattening setup. I don't think I'd do it, at least not for any more than hitting a few little high spots, but might be ok after getting it close with hand planes.
Did anyone mention that it can be used as a marking gauge?
If you have multiple router planes you can use to make the final mark, set it aside, use the other to hog out a majority of the waste and then use the original for the final pass right at the mark.
How do you keep your cutting edges perfectly square? I've been having the darndest time trying to keep mine square when sharpening.
Put more pressure on the side you want to take more off from.