PATROL STEERING BOX & DRIVELINE DRAMAS ON MY BARRA LANDCRUISER - Barra T FJ 45/ 80 series Ep. #21
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 พ.ย. 2021
- Build episode #21 for my XR6 Turbo Barra powered FJ 45 / 80 Series Toyota Landcruiser. In this video:
- Fit a GU PATROL Steering box to an 80 series chassis
- We try to fit a Nissan Patrol Transfer Case
- Discuss Driveline Angles
- Make a Custom Cross Member
More frequent updates on Instagram: @swindelhurst
Build Sponsors: barratheworld.com/ & Raceworks
Tar 2.0 - Coffee Snob
Waratah - Coffee Snob - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![บุษบา - เมนทอล [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IGnWPokSEis/mqdefault.jpg)
Yes i am going though the whole build series likening and watching all the videos. 😂 really ending what you have created both the cruzer and the videos ❤
Haha cheers Andy!
If you find a tb48 gu rear diff, you'll have a drum brake handbrake set up like an 80 series, will just need to change your mounts again
Thanks mate, yeah was trying to avoid doing all the fab again. Definitely a good option though!
Don't stress Bro, go Double Cardin
I have a SWB Manual JK Wrangler with 4" lift on 37"s ie big angles and short rear shaft . I upgraded to 1350 Spicer double Cardin uni at trans case 160km ago. 3.8 Petrol is custom built and running 12psi boost. Gets abused off-road, broke heaps of things but never the tail shaft. Oh also double locked and the Rubicon has a rediculous 70:1 final drive in 1st low so on high traction rocks drivetrain has to transfer massive torque loads.
Good Luck
CB
Any tailshaft shop will make one up just give me flange to flange measurements at ride height.
Love this project!
Thank you!
You could use dual uni joins in one end of the tail shaft as the Nissan patrol 260 series use. This is a European model so you can’t find it overseas. But it runs center diff on the rear axel and a normal patrol gearbox/ transfer as you se on the y60 but it’s build in to the k160 body
Cheers Morten, I’ll have a look into it!
Loving the content keep it coming 🤙
Thank you!
Nice one Richard, a lot of head scratching mate haha. Seeya Rob
Thanks Rob!
I've got Subaru L series calipers on my LN106 Hilux. The handbrake isn't the best, I found it very hard to get enough clamping force but maybe that was due to the straigth pull handbrake under the steering column. On mine it does hold but on any decent incline I first have to press the brake pedal before pulling the hand brake or it will roll.
Yeah interesting you say that. I wonder if having it actuated from the handbrake will make a difference?
Awesome content as always.
If you remake the cross member, I've got another $0.02 worth for you.
I use 44mm DOM tubing, attached to the inside of the chassis rails, suitably bent to go down and under the case, but with shackle bush(Ford Escort, from memory) rubbers, either side of the case, instead of the factory rubber mount, below the case.
For two reasons, the factory mount hangs stupidly low(the bolts even lower) and smooth chassis rail lower outer edges, stop rock hang ups and mangled bolt heads.
Brembo, TRW and Willwood all now sell electric handbrake(ebrake) calipers, disclaimer, I've never used them, but the VE Commodore's use of an electric setup, should clear the way through engineering. Alternatively, Atlas cases are short, centre rear output and there's a handbrake option, oh and a front dig handbrake U turn, gets everyone's attention.
Cheers Aaron, got a part number? I don’t like the factory mount and I could get another 40mm clearance if I do what you’re suggesting.
I think I have one sorted using a 4.8 rear axle. Had a look at those electric ones and they weren’t cheap!!
extra option use a duble carden joint driveshaft and rotate pinion up to point at transfer case output.
but still 19 degrees is nothing if it doesn't bind. you can replace a uni in half hour and they're cheap. vibration is a non issue as long as the t case output and pinion are parallel for a uni uni application.
Hey Michael, I talked to my driveline shop about double cardens, he said it is a good option, he said less angle with 2 UJs is better as a carden decreases the effective length of the driveshaft. They are however a good get out jail card if the driveline is wobbling.
I think 19 degrees would run fine, its just the longevity side of it.
those angles are common on short wheelbase 4wd's. i find that mud and grit shortens the lifespan far more than angle. so if it is being used hard offroad you probably won't see any or much decrease in life expectancy anyway. changing the unis on the rear shaft every 3-5yrs is not a huge inconvenience or cost. having a centre output on the t-case means you're only turning the output shaft and bearings in 2wd. which is itself a strength, reliability, wear, economy, cost and noise reduction improvement.
You could also change the rear diff to a h233 and use a front diff centre housing with the rear centre kinda making a off set housing less angle to
Thanks Riley, I’m running the 260 so would be a bit of messing around! But cheers like the idea
You could use Toyota double u joints or cardon shaft joints
Thanks mate I’ll have a look into it.
I mentioned during one of your videos (sorry I can't find it now) that you designed the welding table you use? Do still have the the design and would you sell the plans?
The GQ rear brake cradle bolts up to the GU housing then just follow the procedure from that patrol4x4 thread.
I have done the same on my conversion but I'm not sure I'm going to be happy with them let alone pass the engineering test.
I still need to bed the new pads and rotors in but I'm not holding my breath.
What ever you choose you will need a custom shaft so I'm not sure what's the problem. Yeah a double cardon joint is expensive but way less than the work you are proposing.
Thanks Benny. Hmmm doesn’t sound promising at all. I wonder if there is anything you can do to tweak/make them work better?
Worth mentioning only the H260 calipers on GU is different to GQ calipers. All other GU rear calipers (H233) are same as all GQ rear calipers.
Ahhh that is a very useful piece of information. Cheers for that.
Have you thought about using a hydraulic handbrake like the ones used in drift and rally cars with a clicking/locking mechanisms on the handle to hold itself on when you let go?
I think handbrakes in Australia have to be mechanically held
Nice work. Though I do wonder if you are starting to get too far away from just being able to pick up spares easily in your travels. It's getting pretty complicated as to what part is used where. I hope your writing all this down. Great vid again Richard.
Cheers Matt, haven't done that yet but just added it to the to do list before I do any big trips! Good idea
Do what flex79 done and put that disc brake thingo on the back of the 80 transfer
Thanks mate, yeah I have seen it but there aren’t any for the 80 series transfer case :(
Boosted built garage on TH-cam I think have done Transfer case mounted hand brake kits for 80 series
Thanks mate I’ll have a look into them.
For a park brake, why not use something like a Jamar Park-Loc? It's a hydraulic device.
Not sure that it would pass engineering here, had a google and it looks like a great device!
Don't worry it's a engineer thing
Hahah thanks mate!
Any thoughts on using a double cardon joint?
I’ll have a look into it!
She’d built make a transfer case hand brake
Thanks mate, I actually messaged them and they aren't available to the public just yet unfortunately.
Didn't want to use weldthrough on the inside of the bolt protection portion to save it rusting later.
On the inside of the crush tubes you mean?
C4 is known for being very short. I don’t know whether you can get an overdrive for it though?
Hey Rick, not sure I’m following. What is C4?
@@DesignedandBuilt 3 speed Ford gearbox, think fords version of a t400 or t350.
I commented before you went through all your reasons for going the way you did. 80 series transfer behind the 6sp and tilting the driveline a touch is a much better choice for a tourer I think
Why don’t you use an electric hand brake ?
Definitely a good option geoff, not a particularly cheap one!
Any chance of selling or sharing the designs for that plate for the steering box conversion?
Yep! DM me mate
Also interested in the steering box template? Sorry Im not tech savy, where do I send yoi a message?
@@DesignedandBuilt hi can I get the steering box template off you please
Yep via Instagram or Facebook!
FJGU?
Ha!
Cruiser case is better anyway, no chains to stretch and start slipping
Cheers Jacob, have heard that a few times as well!
why not just start with a patrol chassis
Patrol chassis are weaker, the 80 series chassis is stronger and have far better mechanical design. The patrol chassis would be easier, but this will be better!
@@DesignedandBuilt Could have reinforced patrol chassis and saved soooo much time and money
Ive missed a couple of episodes. Why the hell are you even considering a patrol rear diff ???? You are making a big headache for no real reason if its for strength think again buil the diff with a solid hemisphere eg locker put in some 10mm arp studs in the hubs and Fermin send it man. That thing is light compared to my 3.5 ton 5.8 isuzu truck motored 80.
Very true mate. Have a look at the diff episode for all the reasoning!