Never disconnect the steering wheel and readjust it that way!!! Your Steering box has a central position which it is supposed to be in when you drive in a straight line. In this position, it has minimum play, and when turning to the sides, play will get bigger. This is so there is a little more friction in the center to make the car go straight. What you did by relocationg the wheel is forcing the steering box out of its central position. You should always correct the steering by adjusting the steering gear under the car, so basically correcting the length of the steering linkage. Glad you filmed it so you can set the steering wheel back to the original position and do it propperly! Also you should only tigthen up your steering box in the center position, you will probably find that your steering will be sticky when turning inone direction (when you get to the original center position) and loose in the other direction because you messed it up 🙂 I did the same mistake in my landcruiser and always wondered why it steered better in one direction until someone told me the steering box has a center position...
@@AussieArvos When you have an adjustable steering rod (no idea if thats the correct therm in english) its easy to adjust the steering wheel, although the rod ends are usually rusted solid and you have to massage them between 2 hammers to get them to move. Once you get it to move, just turn until The steering wheel is straight again :-)
@@nilz6432 - the rod in question is the relay rod. Patrick - If the rod end threads are stubborn, remove them and clean plus put anti sieze on the threads and centering the wheel is a breeze. Unbolting the steering wheel and putting back in another position will affect the turn signal cancelling as well
If you want to get your steering properly true and getting the wheel back on centre with the rack, you'll want to throw in an adjustable drag link. Though mine wasn't as far off as yours, I threw in a superior drag link and had back to dead centre, not to mention with new tie rod ends and bushes it reduced the degree needed for small adjustments on road and removed the last of the tiny shudders at the 90km/h mark.
For anyone watching this video - NEVER EVER NEVER EVER take the steering wheel off to recentre it. NEVER. Use an adjustable drag link to fix the off-centre issue caused by a suspension lift with or without an adjustable panhards. Adjustable panhards are usually not required for a legal lift of 2". Death wobbles can also be caused by old muddies and quite a few other things.
Spot on adjust the steering wheel with the front draglink arm you don't need a adjustable drag link just turn it a few times go for a drive and fine tune it a turn at a time, the death wobbles can be a few things or a heap of things combined start with a wheel balance then look at play in panhard bush while looking at play in panhard check for cracks on pandhard mount and chassis near steering box, also check for play in bearings 6 and 12 oclock (bearing pre load or kingpn bearing) and 3 and 9 oclock (flogged tie rod ends), Flogged out bushes on arms or flogged steering stabiliser, castor correction using plates or arms never uses offset bushes, also swaybar be it you have removed swaybar or bushes flogged or bent the mounts.
Didn't see you do it in the video but you should always remove, clean and grease the brake caliper slide pins, especially on a 4WD as they will be gummed up with mud and grit. If they are not moving freely, it will be the cause of your uneven pad wear.
You guys convinced me to install parts I've had sitting for a while now; I finally installed my Superior Engineering adjustable front and rear panhards in my GU Patrol and farout what a difference it has made on the road! ALL WOBBLES above 80kmh are GONE! I love these types of videos guys, keep it up! 😎😎😎
Oh ok! Land Cruisers have DEATH WOBBLE as well! I have Land Rover Defender and Death Wobble and vague steering is normal things and our body will learn to ignore them.... I might look at that rod to see if they are adjustable or not. Thanks now I feel better about my truck!
Also check where your front panhardt bar mounts to the frame of the vehicle, that mount may be cracked from the death wobble, witnessed it on one of our customers 80 series and we just reinforced. Cheers from the US
Hot tip, when removing steering wheel leave the nut on 4 threads and bash on both sides of the wheel. You will save your nose in some situations, as some steering wheels have never been removed.
I’ve had my 79 series for 10 years it’s an early one with the fte. I have not yet been able to rid this issue. From new panhard to correct preload shims on the knuckles, tyres I still have this old problem around 60-70kph. Beyond me what it is but my wobbles are actually a lot worst then that these will throw your UHF aerial off the bullbar and take you from your seat! My Ute is lifted and I have definitely got the correct caster bushes in it. Beats me
I would say as well when your pushing your calliper pistons back in keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir and make sure it doesn’t overfill and spill out, as the brake fluid will appear to deplete as the pads wear and the fluid appears lower.
To adjust your steering angle undo your steering damper, if it's on the way of the steering rod mine is, and then loosen the tightening brackets for the rod connecting the pitman arms to the left knuckle. Twist the rod one way or the other to adjust steering wheel center. If you do it the above way you're not asking your steering box center, this may have an affect on how much you will be able to turn one direction.
You Needa adjustable steering drag link to adjust the steering correctly not pull the steering wheel off 😂also by doing what you done your left and right turns will be off like doing u turns love the vids mate
If the steering wheel is skew after suspension work it means that the wheel alignment is off, take it for alignment and then the steering wheel will be straight again. Good vid and informative as usual!!! 😎👍👍👍
You should always do alignment after suspension work being done. If you just pull the steering wheel off, you could end up with the steering box off centre and it will make the car pull to one side.
When you fit the adjustable panhards you should fit an adjustable relay rod as well. Don't move the steering wheel on the spline, particularly don't play with the steering column if it has an airbag fitted!
Add on to explain, if the cruiser tracks straight, it’s probably a compromise of angle finding a dihedral, self centering at a cost of tyre scrub, a few pissy degrees and say goodbye Bridgestone sooner than expected, , lifting beyond 2 inches is asking for drama
Gq patrol had death wobbles, panhard bush on right side was completely disintegrated because of the injection pump timing advance plate o ring was leaking a small amount of diesel on it. Fixed it
Thanks for the tips. I think I also need to tighten my steering wheel, as my 80 also has play in the steering wheel, more than I'd like. Do you have any more info/link on where I can read about it before tackling this?
I love your videos, but I have some constructive criticism regarding today’s video. I won’t use Bendix brake pads anymore. I found with my vehicle that these pads reduced my stopping power by around 20% compared to genuine brake pads. Maybe you could do a comparison video: measure the stopping distance from 100km/h with your current pads, then fit genuine Toyota pads, bed them in, then measure the stopping distance again. You maybe very surprised by the results. Keep the awesome videos coming. Cheers.
Don't want to be a smart ass mate but I deliver bendix pads direct from the factory and 1 of their biggest clients are toyota so bendix are the factory pad
I have found a 1994 80 series 1HZ (aftermarket) turbo diesel for a good price. it has a lot of extras and is the best I've found in the past few months. But it has 417000 on the clock. What do you reckon, especially since that's its an aftermarket turbo?
How did you get a rwc with those brake pads. Surely havent killed them that much in the short time you have had the car. Also i used bendix. Untill i had them fail in 1 trip and delaminate. Yellow stuff pads grab so much better and work better with heat
It’s caster shake get your caster checked when you lift a 4x4 your front caster changes your wheels start flapping not good our race truck did it when we changed axle angles for handling I’ve had it on our Kenworth at 160 KPH very scary cheers
That’s my issue as well when I put in new tyres . I thought it was balancing and alignment issue but it was the pan hard rod and drag link. Good content boys stay safe
That’s the wrong way to change your steering centre. Means your steering box is loaded up 1 way more than the other. You’re meant to adjust your drag link to compensate.
When removing the steering wheel leave the centre nut on 1 or 2 threads while you pop the wheel off, then remove the nut completely. Your nose will thank you one day lol.
It’s a slippery slope posting videos telling people how to service major components of their vehicle unless your info is 100% correct and on point. I like the simple mods that this channel posts, I’d prob try to stay away from mechanical advice unless you’re qualified to give it or at least deliver the correct info 100% of the time.
Any young people about to get a loan for a new 4wd. Don’t. I’m 28 and all my friends own their own houses and are now buying brand new rigs when I bought a brand new one at 21. Now I’m the person with a px1 ranger and 300,000kms and super unreliable. Whilst my mates just bought new hiluxes and maxes. I’m the one with a crappy car and a rental. And just paid off my $150 a week loan. Don’t do it. Save up and drive the crappy rig for a while. It’ll pay itself off in no time at all.
Done this all wrong. Don't adjust steering wheel by pulling it off. An adjustable drag link is the proper why. Shouldn't be doing informative videos if you don't know what you're doing yourself.
Never disconnect the steering wheel and readjust it that way!!!
Your Steering box has a central position which it is supposed to be in when you drive in a straight line. In this position, it has minimum play, and when turning to the sides, play will get bigger. This is so there is a little more friction in the center to make the car go straight. What you did by relocationg the wheel is forcing the steering box out of its central position. You should always correct the steering by adjusting the steering gear under the car, so basically correcting the length of the steering linkage. Glad you filmed it so you can set the steering wheel back to the original position and do it propperly! Also you should only tigthen up your steering box in the center position, you will probably find that your steering will be sticky when turning inone direction (when you get to the original center position) and loose in the other direction because you messed it up 🙂 I did the same mistake in my landcruiser and always wondered why it steered better in one direction until someone told me the steering box has a center position...
Thanks for the info!! It did seem a little easy 😂👌
@@AussieArvos When you have an adjustable steering rod (no idea if thats the correct therm in english) its easy to adjust the steering wheel, although the rod ends are usually rusted solid and you have to massage them between 2 hammers to get them to move. Once you get it to move, just turn until The steering wheel is straight again :-)
@@nilz6432 - the rod in question is the relay rod.
Patrick - If the rod end threads are stubborn, remove them and clean plus put anti sieze on the threads and centering the wheel is a breeze. Unbolting the steering wheel and putting back in another position will affect the turn signal cancelling as well
The kid has no idea
If you want to get your steering properly true and getting the wheel back on centre with the rack, you'll want to throw in an adjustable drag link. Though mine wasn't as far off as yours, I threw in a superior drag link and had back to dead centre, not to mention with new tie rod ends and bushes it reduced the degree needed for small adjustments on road and removed the last of the tiny shudders at the 90km/h mark.
Never torque up your suspension components in the air, always torque up on the ground. Gonna wreck your new bushes
this is correct
i learnt that the hard way hahaha
For anyone watching this video - NEVER EVER NEVER EVER take the steering wheel off to recentre it. NEVER. Use an adjustable drag link to fix the off-centre issue caused by a suspension lift with or without an adjustable panhards. Adjustable panhards are usually not required for a legal lift of 2". Death wobbles can also be caused by old muddies and quite a few other things.
Spot on adjust the steering wheel with the front draglink arm you don't need a adjustable drag link just turn it a few times go for a drive and fine tune it a turn at a time, the death wobbles can be a few things or a heap of things combined start with a wheel balance then look at play in panhard bush while looking at play in panhard check for cracks on pandhard mount and chassis near steering box, also check for play in bearings 6 and 12 oclock (bearing pre load or kingpn bearing) and 3 and 9 oclock (flogged tie rod ends), Flogged out bushes on arms or flogged steering stabiliser, castor correction using plates or arms never uses offset bushes, also swaybar be it you have removed swaybar or bushes flogged or bent the mounts.
Didn't see you do it in the video but you should always remove, clean and grease the brake caliper slide pins, especially on a 4WD as they will be gummed up with mud and grit. If they are not moving freely, it will be the cause of your uneven pad wear.
You guys convinced me to install parts I've had sitting for a while now; I finally installed my Superior Engineering adjustable front and rear panhards in my GU Patrol and farout what a difference it has made on the road! ALL WOBBLES above 80kmh are GONE! I love these types of videos guys, keep it up! 😎😎😎
Oh ok! Land Cruisers have DEATH WOBBLE as well! I have Land Rover Defender and Death Wobble and vague steering is normal things and our body will learn to ignore them.... I might look at that rod to see if they are adjustable or not. Thanks now I feel better about my truck!
Death wobble isn't normal in a Defender.
Also check where your front panhardt bar mounts to the frame of the vehicle, that mount may be cracked from the death wobble, witnessed it on one of our customers 80 series and we just reinforced. Cheers from the US
Hot tip, when removing steering wheel leave the nut on 4 threads and bash on both sides of the wheel. You will save your nose in some situations, as some steering wheels have never been removed.
After step @6:20, the steering wheel is generally centred, pass go & straight to the wheel alignment or you’ll chew out those exy rubbers
I’ve had my 79 series for 10 years it’s an early one with the fte. I have not yet been able to rid this issue. From new panhard to correct preload shims on the knuckles, tyres I still have this old problem around 60-70kph. Beyond me what it is but my wobbles are actually a lot worst then that these will throw your UHF aerial off the bullbar and take you from your seat! My Ute is lifted and I have definitely got the correct caster bushes in it. Beats me
I would say as well when your pushing your calliper pistons back in keep an eye on your brake fluid reservoir and make sure it doesn’t overfill and spill out, as the brake fluid will appear to deplete as the pads wear and the fluid appears lower.
One side of the pad is doing the work mate as the slide pins need cleaning and greasing.
To adjust your steering angle undo your steering damper, if it's on the way of the steering rod mine is, and then loosen the tightening brackets for the rod connecting the pitman arms to the left knuckle. Twist the rod one way or the other to adjust steering wheel center.
If you do it the above way you're not asking your steering box center, this may have an affect on how much you will be able to turn one direction.
You Needa adjustable steering drag link to adjust the steering correctly not pull the steering wheel off 😂also by doing what you done your left and right turns will be off like doing u turns love the vids mate
Why?
80 is adjustable steering drag link he just did it the lazy way not the correct way
@@amkadventures
Ok.
What is the correct way and why is that the correct way?
What those guys said, need adjustable drag link
@@brucebaxter6923 adjust the drag link either left or right till the steering wheel is straight again
If the steering wheel is skew after suspension work it means that the wheel alignment is off, take it for alignment and then the steering wheel will be straight again.
Good vid and informative as usual!!! 😎👍👍👍
You should always do alignment after suspension work being done. If you just pull the steering wheel off, you could end up with the steering box off centre and it will make the car pull to one side.
When you fit the adjustable panhards you should fit an adjustable relay rod as well. Don't move the steering wheel on the spline, particularly don't play with the steering column if it has an airbag fitted!
relay rod are adjustable factory on these!!!!
2 episodes straight, you've given me the best advise ever!! Thanks!! 🙏🙏 (Snorkel and death wobble)
Measure from the chassis to the wheel to center the axle. Center the steering wheel by using an adjustable draglink.
Feels well with your explanation and wants more from you, I love it, thanks so much.
my fav 4wd youtuber
Add on to explain, if the cruiser tracks straight, it’s probably a compromise of angle finding a dihedral, self centering at a cost of tyre scrub, a few pissy degrees and say goodbye Bridgestone sooner than expected, , lifting beyond 2 inches is asking for drama
I had a gu patrol similar thing had sunraysias on the thing and it wobbled like a bitch went back to alloys with a good balance fixed
Thanks mate, this fixed all my problems with the project car😃
Gq patrol had death wobbles, panhard bush on right side was completely disintegrated because of the injection pump timing advance plate o ring was leaking a small amount of diesel on it. Fixed it
1:00 you thought that was bad, my dad changed the pads on our 105 series and they were almost q sheet of paper 🤣
Grease the caliper slide pins overwise your rear pads are gonna wear uneven like the old ones
Thanks for the tips. I think I also need to tighten my steering wheel, as my 80 also has play in the steering wheel, more than I'd like. Do you have any more info/link on where I can read about it before tackling this?
Great video. Thanks for the info about the steering box.
Be careful with compressing the brake pistons back in- you might overflow the master cylinder res.
I fixed it but buying a 100 series instead lol, but for real so far it’s held up to everything I’ve seen everyone I rode with do.
I've taken off steering wheel to align my steer from pulling to left. Is it okay?
If you don't have a block on wood the old brake shoe will work with gclamp
I love your videos, but I have some constructive criticism regarding today’s video. I won’t use Bendix brake pads anymore. I found with my vehicle that these pads reduced my stopping power by around 20% compared to genuine brake pads. Maybe you could do a comparison video: measure the stopping distance from 100km/h with your current pads, then fit genuine Toyota pads, bed them in, then measure the stopping distance again. You maybe very surprised by the results. Keep the awesome videos coming. Cheers.
Thanks for the heads up mate, they have been fine thus far but will keep my eyes on them
Don't want to be a smart ass mate but I deliver bendix pads direct from the factory and 1 of their biggest clients are toyota so bendix are the factory pad
Do you hear about the Toyota dealership selling fake pads with asbestos in them
I have found a 1994 80 series 1HZ (aftermarket) turbo diesel for a good price. it has a lot of extras and is the best I've found in the past few months. But it has 417000 on the clock. What do you reckon, especially since that's its an aftermarket turbo?
Great video boys
I’ve learnt a lot from this channel
How did you get a rwc with those brake pads.
Surely havent killed them that much in the short time you have had the car.
Also i used bendix. Untill i had them fail in 1 trip and delaminate.
Yellow stuff pads grab so much better and work better with heat
You adjust the drag link to centre the wheel!!
Hot tip genius for next time use the old pad to depress the caliper piston when you use the g clamp 🗜️🤣
Did you use 105 pads for the front?
New Bullbar and it would be mint 👍🏽❤️
Next time you do pads use some copper grease on the contact surfaces on the brake pads to stop squeal
It’s caster shake get your caster checked when you lift a 4x4 your front caster changes your wheels start flapping not good our race truck did it when we changed axle angles for handling I’ve had it on our Kenworth at 160 KPH very scary cheers
mate need to do somthing with the rotors to
Useful info there
That’s my issue as well when I put in new tyres . I thought it was balancing and alignment issue but it was the pan hard rod and drag link.
Good content boys stay safe
Woohoo nice job!!
That’s the wrong way to change your steering centre. Means your steering box is loaded up 1 way more than the other. You’re meant to adjust your drag link to compensate.
U need a adjustable drag link that the dodgy way or getting the steering wheel straight 🤣🤣🤣
When removing the steering wheel leave the centre nut on 1 or 2 threads while you pop the wheel off, then remove the nut completely. Your nose will thank you one day lol.
No adjustable steering arm to re centre your wheel?? That’s how I and anyone I know has always done it
What happen to the short shorts?
It’s a slippery slope posting videos telling people how to service major components of their vehicle unless your info is 100% correct and on point. I like the simple mods that this channel posts, I’d prob try to stay away from mechanical advice unless you’re qualified to give it or at least deliver the correct info 100% of the time.
thx karen
Death wobbles are awesome, they let you know you’re alive 😂😂
My guess, the death wobbles will come back chances are your chassis is starting to crack around the steering box.
Looks like I need to replace a lot of bushes on my Jeep....
Death wobbles on my 76 series were resolved by replacing the steering damper
Ideally you’d want to machine/ resurface your brake discs when changing brake pads 🤙🏾
Should of done rotors as well as the rear brake pads where down to nothing
Lol there is also heaps of reasons you get death wobbles in your 80 not just panhard bushes
Check out skidpig he had the same issue on his 80 series
That ain’t bad
omg no new rotors or disc machine.....
Never take the steering wheel off and and on. Ya do realise a adjustable drag link will correct the steering wheel. What tou have done is wrong
The ryobi tools 😐
So if u have death wobbles
Y didn’t u fix that first because u put all the mods on it
Because death wobble are really bad in a 4wd
That is not how you get your steering wheel straight you need an adjustable drag link
was the overall audio for this video incredibly loud for anybody? or only me?
yeah, you lost me at taking off the steering wheel. thats super dodgy.
Who are all the pages i watch giving out olight discount codes after I've already spent like 650 bucks 😭
Any young people about to get a loan for a new 4wd. Don’t. I’m 28 and all my friends own their own houses and are now buying brand new rigs when I bought a brand new one at 21. Now I’m the person with a px1 ranger and 300,000kms and super unreliable. Whilst my mates just bought new hiluxes and maxes. I’m the one with a crappy car and a rental. And just paid off my $150 a week loan. Don’t do it. Save up and drive the crappy rig for a while. It’ll pay itself off in no time at all.
You don’t know death wobble till you’ve driven a jeep.
That’s not death wobbles, trust me you’ll know when you get death wobbles. It’s just steering wobble, just don’t want people to get confused
NO NO NO never never ever take the steering wheel off to adjust the steering that’s what will cause heaps more issues
Those are not death wobbles... not even in the same ballpark
Done this all wrong. Don't adjust steering wheel by pulling it off. An adjustable drag link is the proper why. Shouldn't be doing informative videos if you don't know what you're doing yourself.
As a mechanic... there's alot of bad advice in this video.
Soo much wrong in this video. 😔