I was thinking of getting an electric motorfor my small inflabable but thanks to your videos its now a seagull for me . very easy to understand videos , very comprehensive, thank you
No need to hammer a prop off! Once the Spring and Washer ar removed, look at the drive shaft. Usually damaged in some way! Feel all round to find the BURRS and LIGHTLY file away. Hammering a prop off will either KNACKER the prop or, the Brass inner bush! Imagine trying to replace a Drive Spring at sea! With the end of the Drive Shaft all KNACKERED UP!
The "roll pin" referred to in this video, is what I call a C-pin. It could be a driving pin or a locating pin. In this case, it does not matter, as it is a locating but when the C-pin is used as a driving pin, the angle at which it is inserted with respect axis of the shaft is important. If the C-opening is in line with the axis of the shaft it is in its weakest orientation, but if it is at 90 degrees then it is much stronger as a driving pin. One needs to look at the manner in which the pin will flex to close the C- shape repetitively. I met a situation where one C- the pin was inserted with the weakest orientation and the metal fatigue on the opposite side of the opening of the C shaped failed and this actually caused the shut down of an electrical power station.
Excellent video. I think you may have got the aft collar on backwards with the shiny side out. Probably not a big problem, but might be worth turning around if you haven't run it on the back of a boat yet.
Do you have any of these for the 170? Am looking for a parts view also, as the shaft on mine seems to pull out an inch or two, is it missing a clip or something?
thanks,this is a great help,but you didnt show me the part i need to no,its how to remove the small gear and shaft,i can see the split pin inside but no way that will come out and cant see that would help to dismantle, so does the hole bush with shaft come out together?mine is seized solid/cant get on the gear end to drive it out,any help please?
The shitty thing is that the split/roll/spring/sellock pin that he knocks out is drill right through on his model. On mine they hammered the goddamn thing into a blind hole, no way to get it out with the exception of drilling through the other side. Sigh...
Own a 1955 Forty Plus British Seagull. Had limited use and in very good condition. Have a couple of fuel leaks on carbie and fuel filter bolt. What type of seals do you recommend for replacement?
Great video.. thanks… my visit to Seagull Poole for training was in 1967.. your video is a memory refresher.. thanks from N.Ireland
I was thinking of getting an electric motorfor my small inflabable but thanks to your videos its now a seagull for me . very easy to understand videos , very comprehensive, thank you
Fantastic video, i'm overhauling a forty plus, your videos have been invaluable. Thank you so much
Just what I was looking for.
Great vid...nice and clear about what and when to do things...thanks a lot.
new to the seagull, reworking one for a friend, nice motor------- thanks for the videos !!!!
Thanks for the videos. I was able to fully restore a 1973 forty minus.👍👍
Thank you
No need to hammer a prop off! Once the Spring and Washer ar removed, look at the drive shaft. Usually damaged in some way! Feel all round to find the BURRS and LIGHTLY file away. Hammering a prop off will either KNACKER the prop or, the Brass inner bush! Imagine trying to replace a Drive Spring at sea! With the end of the Drive Shaft all KNACKERED UP!
Excellent. videos. many thanks.
+Dave Corner thanks
Would a wee dab of copper slip help on the threads on reassembly for possible later dismantling?
The "roll pin" referred to in this video, is what I call a C-pin. It could be a driving pin or a locating pin. In this case, it does not matter, as it is a locating but when the C-pin is used as a driving pin, the angle at which it is inserted with respect axis of the shaft is important. If the C-opening is in line with the axis of the shaft it is in its weakest orientation, but if it is at 90 degrees then it is much stronger as a driving pin. One needs to look at the manner in which the pin will flex to close the C- shape repetitively. I met a situation where one C- the pin was inserted with the weakest orientation and the metal fatigue on the opposite side of the opening of the C shaped failed and this actually caused the shut down of an electrical power station.
Excellent video. I think you may have got the aft collar on backwards with the shiny side out. Probably not a big problem, but might be worth turning around if you haven't run it on the back of a boat yet.
I have a gap between the collar and the oil seal.Is that normal?
Very informative thanks.
+John Hegarty no problem john.
Thanks for commenting.
John Hegarty
Do you have any of these for the 170?
Am looking for a parts view also, as the shaft on mine seems to pull out an inch or two, is it missing a clip or something?
thanks,this is a great help,but you didnt show me the part i need to no,its how to remove the small gear and shaft,i can see the split pin inside but no way that will come out and cant see that would help to dismantle, so does the hole bush with shaft come out together?mine is seized solid/cant get on the gear end to drive it out,any help please?
thinking alike at the moment, just helping friend nearby but great for the rest we did in similar way... cheers
The shitty thing is that the split/roll/spring/sellock pin that he knocks out is drill right through on his model. On mine they hammered the goddamn thing into a blind hole, no way to get it out with the exception of drilling through the other side. Sigh...
Own a 1955 Forty Plus British Seagull. Had limited use and in very good condition. Have a couple of fuel leaks on carbie and fuel filter bolt. What type of seals do you recommend for replacement?
Hi Glenn
Fibre washers are usually used in the carbs
hello, did you not open the gasket, is that not the critical bit to prevent water coming down to the gear box ? thanks
magic tnx
+Thomas Cannon no problem . Thanks for commenting