Really nice. Well narrated and easy to listen to. I got dizzy with the camera moving about but at least I could see what you were talking about when you were talking about it. Not always the case with this sort of vid. Thanks. I have to do this exact job with this exact engine soon so this will help greatly.
I'm surprised this does not have more views or comments. One thing i have done with a perforated tank is to drop a couple of bright led lamps inside the tank and replace the lid. In a dark place you can quickly mark all the perforations.
Nice one, really good job, I am just in middle of three Seagull refurbs, all different models. As you say take nothing for granted as who knows what has been done in the past. Currently changing coil on one, trying to get flywheel off of another and dealing with fuel leak on one with a tank similar to yours. Still, love working on these engines. Cheers. Andy UK
Nice work! I liked you approach to getting it running again. In regard to the cooling of your motor, it is more than likely that the channels in the engine block are full of rust and crud, stopping water from circulating. If you plan to use this motor on a boat, I probably would recommend trying to take the head off and clearing out the channels. There should be a stream of water and no steam coming from the tell-tale hole from about full throttle to ~1/3rds throttle when the channels are completely clean. Nice job!
I did exactly the same work on my Feather Weight and fitted a new rotor/impeller , I found that unless the engine is on full throttle to half throttle the water does not flow out the head. I tried the engine on the river and on tick over and no water flow. This seems to always be the way with 40’s. Also I found that the impeller or rotor housing needs to be submerged at least 2” under water. For the Feather Weight 40 the distance from transom to water line ideally is 14 inches. Really enjoyed watching the video. Have subscribed.
Check for a spark at the magneto end of the ht lead to rule that out. Check points gap. You can run the flywheel on a drill to get things going too.Make sure the brass button and spring are present where it connects to the flywheel housing.
I BOUGHT a new cable from a JAPANESE motor bike shop, fits PERFIK, THE CYLINDERICAL lead end just needed trimming to fit the narrow slot :) cheao too....NZ
Typical! You skipped the one bit I wanted to see, how to remove the flywheel nut!! They all do that! Oh well, back to scrolling through video after video.....
Get an assistant to hold the flywheel so the motor is off the ground and unscrew the but a couple of turns. Now give the nut a good sharp blow with a large hammer.
THE COOLING WATER DOES NOT FLOW MUCH until the revs are high, it is a centrifugal pump, NOT A VANE or displacement pump. , when in use at low revs, the manual SAYS to rev it now and then :)
@@lesleygeorge4132 I know what the manual says, I've been using and rebuilding Seagulls for over 40 years, 4 in the shed right now. All I'm saying is you see the way the water jet isn't flowing constantly but decreases and increases, changing direction at constant (high) revs? That tells me not everything is hunky dory, that's all. The revs don't need to be excessively high for a good solid flow out of a Seagull.
Brings back memories of our lake boat on Lough Erne Northern Ireland!
Very enjoyable little film Derek, another seagull saved. I’ve got 4 now. Must get out on the dinghy this year.
Really nice. Well narrated and easy to listen to. I got dizzy with the camera moving about but at least I could see what you were talking about when you were talking about it. Not always the case with this sort of vid. Thanks. I have to do this exact job with this exact engine soon so this will help greatly.
I'm surprised this does not have more views or comments. One thing i have done with a perforated tank is to drop a couple of bright led lamps inside the tank and replace the lid. In a dark place you can quickly mark all the perforations.
Thanks. There were too many perforations to braze. POR sorted it well. Still no leaks.
Nice one, really good job, I am just in middle of three Seagull refurbs, all different models. As you say take nothing for granted as who knows what has been done in the past. Currently changing coil on one, trying to get flywheel off of another and dealing with fuel leak on one with a tank similar to yours. Still, love working on these engines. Cheers. Andy UK
I found a brochure in an old fishing book this machine and I did not believe it still exists. I'm excited.
Great video and very informative, cheers Derek
21:04 Wow, that got my attention in the earbuds! Nice work!
Nice work! I liked you approach to getting it running again.
In regard to the cooling of your motor, it is more than likely that the channels in the engine block are full of rust and crud, stopping water from circulating. If you plan to use this motor on a boat, I probably would recommend trying to take the head off and clearing out the channels. There should be a stream of water and no steam coming from the tell-tale hole from about full throttle to ~1/3rds throttle when the channels are completely clean.
Nice job!
I did exactly the same work on my Feather Weight and fitted a new rotor/impeller , I found that unless the engine is on full throttle to half throttle the water does not flow out the head.
I tried the engine on the river and on tick over and no water flow. This seems to always be the way with 40’s.
Also I found that the impeller or rotor housing needs to be submerged at least 2” under water.
For the Feather Weight 40 the distance from transom to water line ideally is 14 inches. Really enjoyed watching the video. Have subscribed.
recycle bin!, thank you great idea
Hello there, I picked one of these up the other day, but I’m having trouble getting spark, the points seem to be clean
Check for a spark at the magneto end of the ht lead to rule that out. Check points gap. You can run the flywheel on a drill to get things going too.Make sure the brass button and spring are present where it connects to the flywheel housing.
You broke the woodruff key probably spinning the flywheel the wrong way
I'm having problems getting my 102 seagull to star I have good blue spark but won't start not even with staring fulid
Check timing. You cold try a new plug too....they sometimes fail under pressure. Check plug is wet to be sure you have fuel.
@@derekrose8241 sorted it now points needed cleaning
We are rebuilding one of these now in Texas but we can’t seem to find parts.
eBay uk loads of spares
@@RyleKittenhouse had to get rid of it. i didnt want to but when life hits you.... gotta do what you gotta do
@@backwoodstaylor3019 I got one I’ll carry on the legacy for you 😂
I BOUGHT a new cable from a JAPANESE motor bike shop, fits PERFIK, THE CYLINDERICAL lead end just needed trimming to fit the narrow slot :) cheao too....NZ
The older brass fuel tanks are better
Typical! You skipped the one bit I wanted to see, how to remove the flywheel nut!! They all do that! Oh well, back to scrolling through video after video.....
Get an assistant to hold the flywheel so the motor is off the ground and unscrew the but a couple of turns. Now give the nut a good sharp blow with a large hammer.
The cooling water flow still didn't look good, I've seen a lot better....
THE COOLING WATER DOES NOT FLOW MUCH until the revs are high, it is a centrifugal pump, NOT A VANE or displacement pump. , when in use at low revs, the manual SAYS to rev it now and then :)
@@lesleygeorge4132 I know what the manual says, I've been using and rebuilding Seagulls for over 40 years, 4 in the shed right now. All I'm saying is you see the way the water jet isn't flowing constantly but decreases and increases, changing direction at constant (high) revs? That tells me not everything is hunky dory, that's all. The revs don't need to be excessively high for a good solid flow out of a Seagull.