UPDATE: A year and a half and 45k miles later, this truck has 227k miles and hasn’t had a single problem since. I absolutely love some of these comments here saying the problem is with the turbos leaking oil, dirt will get sucked in the hole, should have installed a catch can, OMG BOOST LEAK 😱 etc etc etc. 😂 Please, educate yourself on turbocharged engines before commenting and making a fool of yourself. This fix has worked, the time and miles have proven it. Hope this video has been helpful to others out there with the same issue.
That hole is too small for any kind of significant boost leak, the hesitation is way worse anyhow. It can be as small as 1/16th or probably even 1/32nd. You just need to blow out the small amount of pooled liquid blocking airflow there.
I have a 2012 F150 Eco B, same issue, I drilled a small hole through the plastic portion of the intercooler in almost the exact same place as shown, however nothing came out, no water, oil etc. Assuming I was supposed to stop once making it through the plastic portion? I was very careful to do so. If I run my bit through the hole about a half inch I can feel it hit metal. (not drilling). Any help would be appreciated.
Drilled mine with an 1/8" bit. Nothing came out right off the start but once I got it out on the highway it spat and sputtered for a couple of K and the sputter was gone. Looked underneath and the signs of water/oil.... Thanks for the fix, glad it's an easy one
Thank you very much for sharing the video. My truck has been in the shop 5 times for the issue and had coil wires and plugs replaced... Of course, all unsuccessful.
A big helper to your video would be to show what was happening before you started to work on it, it helps us relate much easier and if making a noise or a symptom it would be much easier to diagnose.
2012 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost - stock, no tune. I drilled a 1/16 hole in the corner of mine earlier today and then went for a long hard drive. Initially when opening it wide open, it hesitated and did its thing. After that I opened it wide a few more times and couldn't get it to shutter and enter limp mode... just got home and checked out how much sludge came out... wow. So far, so good. I'll continue to do this for the next few weeks and see how it goes.
Unless turbo rpm is sensed, no ill effects should occur. Boost is regulated by wastegate, so the turbos will turn at a slightly higher rpm for a given boost pressure. Fun!
Doesn't the MAF before the turbo read a higher volume of air than that which makes it to the engine? i.e. Even though boost is compensated by the wastegate, air volume may not be.
@@upsidedowndog1256 Thanks. But after poking around the internets a bit, it looks like EB's have MAP (pressure) sensors aft of the intercooler which makes this mod acceptable, rather than MAF (volume) sensors. If we had MAF sensors this would have likely been a problem as MAFs sense volume, not pressure. And the volume would read higher under boost @ the air filter (typically where MAFs are configured) than what actually made it to the engine, causing a rich air-fuel mixture, and lower under vacuum causing a lean mixture. Again, this is not apparently a problem with EBs since we use MAP (pressure) sensors as opposed to MAF (volume) sensors.
Good fix, too bad nobody actually watches and pays attention to your video before commenting and criticizing. It's a tiny whole people it wont effect boost. boosted systems leak just about everywhere. A catch can would not solve this issue since it is mostly condensation, 35 years with Ford and we know this concern. All turbod intercooled car have this concern except for Subaru, (there cooler is vertical/pancake mounted) Great fix and more power to you.
I wonder--could you drill a hole to fit a small permanent drain fixture with extended tube to allow the excess to go to ground instead of on the truck?
Like you, I found doing this well over a year ago on my 2016 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. When I initially did it, there was lots of crud that came out after the first start of the engine, but it's barely anything now, and I've not had an issue since. I did change out the throttle body recently, and I was surprised at how dirty it was, so quite possibly that crud worked it's way to the throttle body, and over the years has allowed it to get quite dirty! I also have a catch-can (passenger side only) and empty it once a month or so, and it's amazing all the crud that would be pushed into the intake! It's basically oil, moisture and acids, and often looks like baby poo! I dump it in my garbage can, and then wipe out the catch-can super clean, and re-install. I also do 5K oil changes, and the trucks running great at 133K, and I hope for many more years!
would yours ever give you misfire codes? mine did that before as well as the tach getting jumpy and after new coils and plugs was all good. problem is back now about a year later but im getting no misfire codes and a nice steady tach, so im thinking of going with this fix. ive got a 2015 167k, also passenger catch can looks like milkshake about every month, definitly makes me wanna clean the throttle body after seeing what came out of that
I wonder if there is a item we can install through that hole to put a drain tube so you could run the oil out another place so it does not muck up the underbody...
I put a catch can on the "normal" PCV line, with works when there is vacuum in the intake manifold. Under boost, this doesn't work, as they don't want to pressurize the crankcase. The catch can does collect a few drops of oil, but collects quite a bit of dirty water. When the engine is under boost, there is a different PCV system, which I forgot about as there wasn't much I could do about it. This spring I'll see what is in the bottom of the intercooler, and worry about it then. A hole, with a self tapping screw might be something I"ll do.
I have that underboost problem too. Intermittent check engine light with P0299>Turbocharger/Supercharger Underboost. I just clear the codes coz i dont know how to fix it. Please post if you ever solved the issue. Thanks
Wonder if it was "our" Video you saw Daniel ? *AFTER our failure: you wouldn't have believed the amount of water that was "spewing" outa the exhaust*. End-game: we did this same thing ... "no-fuss - no-muss". That SOLVED the problem !. GREAT CLIP !!
Joe R - yes I know this is a positive pressure system. I was referring to contamination possibly entering that hole while system is under vacuum such as coasting down a hill with throttle closed. Under some conditions intake manifold can still go negative pressure. I just do not know how often that condition would happen with this motor. There is a video on TH-cam showing just how much air is lost in a charge cooler with a 1/16 hole. He did the test with and without oil in the area. He tested up to 30 lbs in a closed circuit and the air loss was a nit. The pressure loss would easily be overcome by the wimpiest of turbos. At the end of the day a catch can or water/oil separator would be ideal, this fixes the problem too. It's just a bit messy. The little bit of reasearch I just finished on this seems too indicate this is a proven technique used by people who have worked on these systems for a living. Apparently, this intake charge contamination is a common problem on boosted engines in general and measures have to be taken to address it. That was a bit of a surprise to me. I am not a trained professional mechanic. My knowledge comes from fixing my broke vehicles and what had to be done to the the big trucks I drove for years. And there are a lot of gaps in that knowledge. But I do know what polished chrome muffler bearings and blinker fluids are and what Functions they perform.
Very Interesting. Makes sense, but i think the boost/vacuum leak might present future problems. I was thinking and came up with the idea of maybe installing some sort of petcock at the bottom to occasionally drain the intercooler, but also preventing a boost leak. A hole that size probably wouldn't be noticed by the engine's computer, so either way would probably work. Nice cheap remedy!!
Interesting fix. I now have 344,000 km on my 2011 eco and to solve my condensation issue I went with a full race all aluminum front mount intercooler and piping it cured the problem as well and lowering the boost pressure air temp
I have own 10 fords and 1 dodge this 2013 is one of the best trucks I have ever own like I said 238,000 miles and only a sputter out of the truck I hope this fixes my truck it’s just hard to drill a hole in to my inter cooler I pray this works thanks for video
Just an FYI, I had the same problem. I almost drilled it, but my friend suggested Sea Foam. I did 2oz per gallon in the tank. After it ran through, I didn’t have the issue anymore!!! I also ran another 2oz per gallon in the next fill up. That was around 3OOO miles ago! I have my power back and it seems to have fixed the problem!!
A sound idea. The turbos will maintain full boost as long as the hole isn't too big. The just delay opening the wastegates as needed. You'd only lose a very small amount of boost at maximum boost and at high altitude. Any gunk simply gets forced out.
I have a 2013 eco boost mine is doing the same thing it spits and sputters is when I give it gas and go to pass someone or if I try and keep it in 6th gear I just hook it up to computer and it said cam shaft sensor and timming sensor the truck has 238,000 miles and it runs great other than this never have had a problem until now I am just wondering if I should drill the same hole in mine
I wonder if ford is going to come out with a TSB that adds a hole to the intercooler and a catch can to recover and recycle the liquid into the PCV intake port on the inlet of the turbos?
hopefully ford could create a factory bleed valve of some sort to fix the problem on newer models. Also could a catch can eliminate most of the oil building up in it?
Haven't had an issue on my 12 3.5 but I might do this anyways just to avoid a future problem. Live in a pretty dry climate out here in the high desert so maybe that's why you don't see this crop up in this area as much.
might want to check resetting that oil change in the system panel. i have a 2015 eco and i believe it know if ive been towing or off-roading a lot, and may decrease my intervals, but 7500-10000 miles is too long for me. you can decrease the settings, but still one of the best ways is to write it down. like we have done since the beginning of time lol
Just experienced this for the first time at 101,000 miles. Decided to take to Ford (still under warranty). They replaced the plugs, with the #4 cylinder plug being cracked. They covered a new coil for that cylinder, and labor. I paid for the plugs and diagnostic fee. Back to normal for now, we’ll see what happens moving forward.
2nd gen 3.5 in 2017s have a different inner cooler. Will never have to drain one. Turbos will draw it out when it reaches about 1/4 on the bottom. if your gassing it both will draw any condensation out . You might want to put a screw in that hole so some oil gets to the turbos. It appears ford found a fix or decided to do something since they was getting a bad rap on the echos
I have a 2014 with 82K on it currently in ND. I have been having this shudder issue for that past couple (summer) months. Im looking into doing this to my pickup very soon.
Not condensate, not oil seals in turbo, that is just oil build up from engine blow by. EVERY turbo or boosted engine has it and the only way to REDUCE it is with a catch can on the pcv system but you will never get it 100 percent. This is just a band aid fix because you are still getting the intercooler internally coated with oil greatly reducing its efficiency.
Could this be the cause for water in my oil? I have the same truck and change oil every 3000 miles. I usually have atleast a half quart of water in the oil. Atleast I think it must be water because it doesn't smell like gas and I always add 6 quarts and around 6.5 usually drains out
@@BookerTJohnson I’ve done my plugs twice. First time was about 70-80k kms which is 45-50k miles but when my truck is at work it sees tons of hrs of idling so the way I see it plugs are cheap so I’ll do them every 60k kms. and they don’t like big gap w stock coils so keep it .028-.030 when new
wouldnt installing a capped off hose or nozzle into the bottom of the IC and emptying it out every oil change be a better solution than creating a boost leak? .
It seems counter-intuitive to create a boost/vacuum leak, just catch can it and retain the correct pressure. I am not sure how many bars you are losing by drilling a hole in a sealed system like this. Not sure the fix is a reasonable tradeoff.
Did you try step colder plugs? If your making to much power for the spark it will miss fire under full throttle you need go step colder plugs. Maybe what happen was the hole in the inter cooler looses boost thus he loses power and it stops the misfire lol. If yall already did that then idk what is just asking.
I never looked at the PCV systems of cars that came turbocharged from the factory. Normally when i turbo a car i delete the stock PCV system. I prefer to use a catch can with a breather .....
The Tool Guy for the sake of having a laugh I'm going to respond after being called a dumb ass for no reason lol. All pcv systems I've seen are all after the turbo and before the throttle or on the intake manifold itself. I don't see why a manufacturer would want oil to be fed to the inlet of the turbo. What ever oil is at the piping or intercooler is coming from the turbo, I guarantee it. Also, why would a hole in the intercooler fix the problem? Your letting out air that the maf sensor already accounted for. There is obviously more problems than meets the eye. My guess its a bad turbo, and the excess oil is messing with the maf and or fouling the plugs and causing the miss fire. How old are you tool guy?
The Tool Guy where did I say the "turbo magically makes the oil go away"? Arm chair warrior? You're the one calling names. Lol. Tough guy. There's a breather and there's a pcv. Pre turbo is a breather after that is a pcv. By the way, a pcv is a one way check valve, no boost in the crank case no matter where you put it.
Ford's TSB is to replace the intercooler and install different shields. But I've heard that it can cause slight performance decreases, loss of fuel mileage, and sometimes not even fix the problem. Plus, those intercoolers are upwards of a grand, drilling a little hole didn't cost us anything.
Can confirm that on our 2015 f-150 3.5 ecoboost the replacement intercooler did not fix anything. We still had problems with it continually after that.
What are the symptoms of the misfire problem? I have a 2016 that will throw an intermittent wrench light cruising at 65mph with cruise control. Recently help with wrench light issue replacing the trans oil pump.
My 2012 Ecoboost only gets ~13-14 MPG and that's with it set to ~60 MPH on cruise going to and from work everyday. I think I need to change my plugs, drill my weep hole, and get a catch can since I had to replace my MAP sensor on top of the intake when I got the truck, with 68k miles on it, since it wasn't just dirty but permanently discolored. That has only been a month back but I've watched the MPG steadily drop from around 16-17 MPG to around 13 MPG now which is what I was getting in my 05 Yukon Denali with a big 6L Vortec.
So i have a 2011 king ranch with over 200k miles. had a P0016 code for the camshaft position sensor bank 1 sensor A 6 months ago. i put a new one in and it was fine until today. that is what led me to this video. is drilling this hole going to fix my issue as well? or do i have the dreaded stretched timing chain?
Well other then the timing chain and phaser issue not unlike the 5.4L did...so 10+ years latter...same issue different flavor. Oh yeah and exhaust manifolds...been through several and several turbos too!
I recommend getting the oil separator with catch can instead. This does work however oil/moisture will still make it to the cylinders. Reason I say catch can is these are direct injection so any oil that makes it back will carbonize on the valves which is already an issue with these Ecoboost engines
@@ryanford7836 true. However the separator catches it closer to the intake opposed to the bottom also just drilling the intercooler leaves oil spots and drips on your skirt. I have it drilled myself cause I don't care about stains myself
I get the idea of condensation. But condensation creates water, not oil. So is drilling the hole solving 2 problems then? The 1st being the condensation and the 2nd being the oil entering the intake & coating the valves.
I changed my spark plugs but didn’t change anything, i tried changing the coils also but nothing, so now yesterday i drilled the hole on my intercooler but it did show a little improvement but it still does the same i press down on the gas and it still makes the sound! Any ideas on what else can i do?
Is y'all's shudder when you hammer on it only? Mine idles fine and drives ok if I take it easy. If I hammer on it I start to hear a whine behind my glove box and the check engine light will flash causing it to go into limp mode.
Mine does the sames as your, minus the glove box whine, the CEL, and limp mode.... I am swapping plugs, and if that doesn't work, drilling this hole...
@@DoyleHargraves I had a hole in the intercooler and still did the same thing. I just changed spark plugs and coil packs which didn't help either. I ordered a catch can so maybe that will help. If all else fails I'm going to buy new turbos and hope to GOD that fixes my problem. Keep me updated if you fix yours Doyle!
That's a pretty cool little fix! I have a dodge magnum with a 5.7 hemi and we were having issues with misfires and hesitation too but what we found was oil in the intake and we put a oil separater on it and zero problems afterwards. We found oil coming from the PCV. Maybe you could look into that too
Yeah that is another thing you can do on this engine. People often install catch cans in this hole shown in the vid. But, since the engine gets a lot of blow by from the turbo charged nature, a lot of oil, water, and gas gets circulated past the piston rings, and back into the air intake to be burned again. This increases engine life but decreases the amount of air and gas you can fit into a cylinder. Installing a catch can between that line that filters the air from the oil in a bronze filter or gravity catch will significantly reduce the oil content in the air intake. This is a common problem in forced induction engines but also occurs in naturally asperated engines.
I see a lot of pople saying this is INSANE and some saying it's a decent fix. I have been going through sparkplugs CONSTANTLY on my high mileage f150 ecoboost. Same year, 2011. They come out cracked and looking like shit, and gapping all off with barely 10,000 - 15,000 on them. Always OEM plugs, gapped to .30 This intercooler has the TSB plastic cover installed to the bottom of the intercooler to reduce the intake but I have NEVER been able to put the pedal to the metal without it causing a misfire and then soon after need to replace plugs. I don't plan on keeping this truck much longer but I desperately need a fix in the mean time. Could this be it? Or does anyone have any other suggestions without spending a fortune?
Curious.... have you resolved the issue with your spark plugs cracking? And was your engine diagnosed with a misfire by a technician or does it just "feel like a misfire" without having it properly diagnosed? Thanks!
why don't you use a drain petcock and panelbond to seal it.....drain it once in a while and put a catch can system on and eliminate the problem permanently
@Jerrammie Villanueva suggested a catch can and I'd agree with him. A catch can would probably work. Or at least with the current solution you could tap the hole, throw a fitting in there, then use some flexible tubing to make a cheap catch bottle out of a small mayo bottle or something. Then put another hole in the lid and put a one way check valve in it to prevent a vaccum from pulling things in to the hole on vaccum. Or hell, if you don't care whats coming out and want to avoid blowing crud all over your truck, you could just tap the hole and screw a little check valve in to it, then run a tiny length of tube below where the oil would blow from the hole Although where is this oil coming from? An EGR or PCV Valve? I guess I can sort of see the logic of putting the EGR or PCV before the turbos, due to the fact that you're going to have more vacuum before them but wouldn't that mean that you're cooking oil on to the compressor wheels which could cause them to fail early due to to bearing wear from having weird unbalanced loads on the compressor fins? I mean, living in the motor city I have friends who are engineers at Ford and GM and they're not dumb people, but you'd think that they would think of this failure mode. There has to be some logical trade off.
I have 2014 f150 3.5l ecoboost that was bought with 130k km and it had really bad misfire on cold start up, everything changed when i installed mishimoto catch cans(driver and passenger side) i changed spark plugs and cleaned all 3 sensors on throttle body etc, it took about 5-7k km to.clean up and engine starts up as smooth as new, as far as drilling a hole in the intercooler its a big mistake and will definitely void warranty on new vehicles. Get a quality catch can and you will never have misfire or shaking on start up! The amount of crap these cans catch between oil changes is mind blowing, really suprising that Ford hasn't addressed that issue as standard recal.
Had to think about this one a bit. The Boost leakage is a very small amount of air vs amount being supplied. It's a non issue. There is probably a bit of goo on the inside where the hole is, so I would bet the air being sucked in would capture most of if not all the contaminates that got in. That area is in an area where you would not see much dust anyway due to the way the air moves around that region. That is a pretty protected area. And being a boosted engine in a heavy truck, I would bet the times a vacuum large enough to pull any contamination through that tiny hole would be minimal at best. You would get more dirt from other sources already in the system.
American Rambler you realize that this is a positive pressure system, right? There will be air forced OUT the hole, which not only will make the truck run worse, or at the very least weak. Air intake on fuel injected vehicles is a very delicate and intricate system, especially ones using forced induction. Putting any holes in the system will throw it out of balance and cause a boost leak.
The air leakage from a 1/16 hole looks like a leaky nail in a tire, after thumbing some spit on it. So compared to the volume of air that runs through system, it’s not noticed in the slightest and the system is still pressurized…
is this like the same thing as using a catch can? It's defiantly cheaper! I gotta try this. 230660 mls on my truck. Replacing plugs more often than needed. Just changed the ignition coil on cylinder 4, no change. About to over haul the fuel injectors. Getting the flashing engine light. P0304. Hope this works! I'll let ya know
38911bytefree a little from the turbo a little from pcv. it's got a lot of miles on it, so this can be expected. a small amount of oil really isn't a concern. Most likely, the water condensation was the real cause of the miss fire.
melody Hart basically every turbocharger leaks a small amount of oil and it builds up over time. it's nearly impossible to perfectly seal the pressure fed bearings inside the unit from leaking any oil out. pull the charge air line off any intercooler from an engine with this kind of miles on it, and you'll find oil inside. Some comes from the PCV line as well which constantly spews oil vapors on any engine.
Melody oil in every intercooler ever made........even on a new car. I would tear off wrx intercoolers on warranty clutch jobs. Sometimes with less than 3 k on them. Guess what, oil in the intercooler, you just get used to it.
You can install a catch can. www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmocc-cf?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-mishimoto&gclid=CKqU9_784tACFY1XDQodw3QLWw
Yeah the catch can wouldn't block oil from the turbo seals.... So does that mean all wrxs have cheaply made seals that wear out quickly? What y'all said is conflicting.
the idea for this came from back in the day Volvos. They had 3/32 holes from the factory for this very reason. As a guy that bought his first new truck and has had to deal with this shit, and no help from Ford, I can tell you this is beyond frustrating. Still love my EB. I have had the condensation issue within an hour of driving in the right/wrong conditions. I had the 1st Gen deflector plates. The 2nd gen deflector plates. The redesigned intercooler. It finally comes down to I need to be able to drive this damn thing and I am not rich enough to just simply swap out vehicles. This solves it. BTW, after the turbos but before the throttle body is almost always under boost. It's always been 1psi or more. And if you think a small hole like that is going to cause a problem you're wrong. I've seen 18 lbs of boost going thru that 3 inch pipe. That's after the hole was drilled.
All you did by putting a hole in the intercooler was lower the boost. Did you try new plugs gapped at .030"? If lowering the boost stopped the mlsfire the problem was the plugs gapped too wide.
Drilling a hole in the intercooler will allow debris to enter the intercooler, yes it will push out condensation but the trade off don’t make since. Maybe you should block off some of the intercooler so the air temp will not drop to a level such to create condensation. This is called reaching a dew point via delta temps across the intercooler coil. Blocking off part of the intercooler will produce the same effect, and will prevent from damaging the engine over a long period of time by introducing debris into the turbos and engine components.
You said that he's only done oil changes, spark plugs and coils. Out of curiosity, what was the check engine light for later on in the video? It obviously wasn't something crippling, because he continues to drive the truck, but apparently oil changes, plugs and coils aren't all it needs. I'm looking at getting a 2011 Eco used right now, which is why I ask.
Anom Amos catch can won’t stop the condensation issue, only mitigates the oil blow by. Condensation is forming from the drastic drop in hot compressed air coming from turbos to begin rapidly cooled in cooler to throttle body
One old logger boy has way over 300,000 miles on his '11 Ecoboost. I don't think he even drilled that hole. I'm putting a catch can on my '15. All direct injection engines need one. It's direct injection that causes issues, not turbos.
The turbos can easily compensate for such a small hole.. keep in mind the engine consumes air constantly that the the turbos provide and would easily over pressurize the engine at wot and high rpms if it was not regulated. That small hole is no issue.
Ihaveworms the other commenters and yourself are right, you will lose pressure, it won't matter because the turbo will make its pressure quota anyway, the real problem is now the mismatch between measured air at the air flow sensor and actual air entering the engine. this constitutes an intake leak, throwing the fuel trims off. a real problem on a turbo motor, the trims may even swing between positive and negative depending on driving conditions (uphill on a Fwy vs 25mph on flat ground, fuel trims responding to high boost vs negative pressure in the intake) potentially making diagnosis confusing/difficult
I am certain that the difference in air volume vs measured pre compressor is well within the margin of error of the sensor array of sensors that indicate the actual quantity of air being fed into the engine. Failing that, even if it DID make a difference, the result would be a slightly rich mixture since there would be in theory less air present than calculated, and rich never killed a motor. Lean will eat a piston in short order. Worst you'd do is foul a plug. If you wanted to be super anal about it and I don't remember which side of the throttle plate this is in the system, worst case under a decelerating high rpm vacuum condition you could suck a little dirt in, so maybe routing that port through an oil filter might be an option to make as a make shift air cleaner. Real world difference: Zero.
Dummy. The turbo will have to overspin to generate the same pressure, reducing its service life and, in some cases, causing failed bearings and center shafts. The way to do this, if one wants to do some drilling, is to make that hole, install a boss and then run a line to something on the intake side. This way pooled water will collect and disperse and no metered air will be lost. I also can't believe this was a problem from new. It's likely the intercooler is so dirty inside that the water is collecting in some bad areas due to sludge. I'm sure this guy never suggested an IC clean.
UPDATE: A year and a half and 45k miles later, this truck has 227k miles and hasn’t had a single problem since. I absolutely love some of these comments here saying the problem is with the turbos leaking oil, dirt will get sucked in the hole, should have installed a catch can, OMG BOOST LEAK 😱 etc etc etc. 😂 Please, educate yourself on turbocharged engines before commenting and making a fool of yourself. This fix has worked, the time and miles have proven it. Hope this video has been helpful to others out there with the same issue.
That hole is too small for any kind of significant boost leak, the hesitation is way worse anyhow. It can be as small as 1/16th or probably even 1/32nd. You just need to blow out the small amount of pooled liquid blocking airflow there.
I been adding an oil catch can on the PCV would reduce the amount of oil coming out.
I have a 2012 F150 Eco B, same issue, I drilled a small hole through the plastic portion of the intercooler in almost the exact same place as shown, however nothing came out, no water, oil etc. Assuming I was supposed to stop once making it through the plastic portion? I was very careful to do so. If I run my bit through the hole about a half inch I can feel it hit metal. (not drilling). Any help would be appreciated.
@@shuckydern1comes out while you drive
182k that did hold up really well. good job Ford
Drilled mine with an 1/8" bit. Nothing came out right off the start but once I got it out on the highway it spat and sputtered for a couple of K and the sputter was gone. Looked underneath and the signs of water/oil....
Thanks for the fix, glad it's an easy one
Thank you very much for sharing the video. My truck has been in the shop 5 times for the issue and had coil wires and plugs replaced...
Of course, all unsuccessful.
A big helper to your video would be to show what was happening before you started to work on it, it helps us relate much easier and if making a noise or a symptom it would be much easier to diagnose.
Great video! It nice to see another Ecoboost kicking butt. Have 140k on mine and still pulls like a mule on steroids.
2012 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost - stock, no tune. I drilled a 1/16 hole in the corner of mine earlier today and then went for a long hard drive. Initially when opening it wide open, it hesitated and did its thing. After that I opened it wide a few more times and couldn't get it to shutter and enter limp mode... just got home and checked out how much sludge came out... wow. So far, so good. I'll continue to do this for the next few weeks and see how it goes.
My dad has a 2014 with 168K miles, synthetic oil change every 5K miles, he just changed plugs and coil packs..running like a champ
I used a small self-tapper so when its done draining it can screw it back in.
With a rubber gasket
Affenberg I recognized that deal immediately. Nice easy fix. Ford needs to remedy that.
Unless turbo rpm is sensed, no ill effects should occur. Boost is regulated by wastegate, so the turbos will turn at a slightly higher rpm for a given boost pressure. Fun!
Doesn't the MAF before the turbo read a higher volume of air than that which makes it to the engine? i.e. Even though boost is compensated by the wastegate, air volume may not be.
@@jplee123
The speed of the turbo should compensate for volume if there is a leakage.
@@upsidedowndog1256 Thanks. But after poking around the internets a bit, it looks like EB's have MAP (pressure) sensors aft of the intercooler which makes this mod acceptable, rather than MAF (volume) sensors. If we had MAF sensors this would have likely been a problem as MAFs sense volume, not pressure. And the volume would read higher under boost @ the air filter (typically where MAFs are configured) than what actually made it to the engine, causing a rich air-fuel mixture, and lower under vacuum causing a lean mixture. Again, this is not apparently a problem with EBs since we use MAP (pressure) sensors as opposed to MAF (volume) sensors.
Drilled the hole and replaced 6 plugs. Runs like a new truck. Got about a pint glass full of sludge. Still running great 👍
Good fix, too bad nobody actually watches and pays attention to your video before commenting and criticizing. It's a tiny whole people it wont effect boost. boosted systems leak just about everywhere. A catch can would not solve this issue since it is mostly condensation, 35 years with Ford and we know this concern. All turbod intercooled car have this concern except for Subaru, (there cooler is vertical/pancake mounted) Great fix and more power to you.
BarberChop It definitely works. I did it and there is no loss of boost or power
I did it as well and it fix it the same day after letting drain
I wonder--could you drill a hole to fit a small permanent drain fixture with extended tube to allow the excess to go to ground instead of on the truck?
Like you, I found doing this well over a year ago on my 2016 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. When I initially did it, there was lots of crud that came out after the first start of the engine, but it's barely anything now, and I've not had an issue since. I did change out the throttle body recently, and I was surprised at how dirty it was, so quite possibly that crud worked it's way to the throttle body, and over the years has allowed it to get quite dirty! I also have a catch-can (passenger side only) and empty it once a month or so, and it's amazing all the crud that would be pushed into the intake! It's basically oil, moisture and acids, and often looks like baby poo! I dump it in my garbage can, and then wipe out the catch-can super clean, and re-install. I also do 5K oil changes, and the trucks running great at 133K, and I hope for many more years!
would yours ever give you misfire codes? mine did that before as well as the tach getting jumpy and after new coils and plugs was all good. problem is back now about a year later but im getting no misfire codes and a nice steady tach, so im thinking of going with this fix. ive got a 2015 167k, also passenger catch can looks like milkshake about every month, definitly makes me wanna clean the throttle body after seeing what came out of that
im going to add a catch can see if that helps, i don't want oil leaking on my drive way
I wonder if there is a item we can install through that hole to put a drain tube so you could run the oil out another place so it does not muck up the underbody...
I put a catch can on the "normal" PCV line, with works when there is vacuum in the intake manifold. Under boost, this doesn't work, as they don't want to pressurize the crankcase. The catch can does collect a few drops of oil, but collects quite a bit of dirty water. When the engine is under boost, there is a different PCV system, which I forgot about as there wasn't much I could do about it. This spring I'll see what is in the bottom of the intercooler, and worry about it then. A hole, with a self tapping screw might be something I"ll do.
I have that underboost problem too. Intermittent check engine light with P0299>Turbocharger/Supercharger Underboost. I just clear the codes coz i dont know how to fix it. Please post if you ever solved the issue. Thanks
Wonder if it was "our" Video you saw Daniel ? *AFTER our failure: you wouldn't have believed the amount of water that was "spewing" outa the exhaust*. End-game: we did this same thing ... "no-fuss - no-muss". That SOLVED the problem !.
GREAT CLIP !!
Joe R - yes I know this is a positive pressure system. I was referring to contamination possibly entering that hole while system is under vacuum such as coasting down a hill with throttle closed. Under some conditions intake manifold can still go negative pressure. I just do not know how often that condition would happen with this motor. There is a video on TH-cam showing just how much air is lost in a charge cooler with a 1/16 hole. He did the test with and without oil in the area. He tested up to 30 lbs in a closed circuit and the air loss was a nit. The pressure loss would easily be overcome by the wimpiest of turbos. At the end of the day a catch can or water/oil separator would be ideal, this fixes the problem too. It's just a bit messy. The little bit of reasearch I just finished on this seems too indicate this is a proven technique used by people who have worked on these systems for a living. Apparently, this intake charge contamination is a common problem on boosted engines in general and measures have to be taken to address it. That was a bit of a surprise to me. I am not a trained professional mechanic. My knowledge comes from fixing my broke vehicles and what had to be done to the the big trucks I drove for years. And there are a lot of gaps in that knowledge. But I do know what polished chrome muffler bearings and blinker fluids are and what Functions they perform.
Don't forget the can of "beep" for the horn.
Very Interesting. Makes sense, but i think the boost/vacuum leak might present future problems. I was thinking and came up with the idea of maybe installing some sort of petcock at the bottom to occasionally drain the intercooler, but also preventing a boost leak. A hole that size probably wouldn't be noticed by the engine's computer, so either way would probably work. Nice cheap remedy!!
I drilled a weep hole and used a self tapper screw as a plug. Not too many issues here in Northern California
Interesting fix. I now have 344,000 km on my 2011 eco and to solve my condensation issue I went with a full race all aluminum front mount intercooler and piping it cured the problem as well and lowering the boost pressure air temp
This is something I believe my used truck has installed.
I have own 10 fords and 1 dodge this 2013 is one of the best trucks I have ever own like I said 238,000 miles and only a sputter out of the truck I hope this fixes my truck it’s just hard to drill a hole in to my inter cooler I pray this works thanks for video
Just drill 3/32 hole in my 2011 Eco and everything go back to normal, even my check engine light goes off
EXOVCDS has been doing this for years on VW turbos with no issues over on his channel. Great fix, thanks!
nice try
Just an FYI, I had the same problem. I almost drilled it, but my friend suggested Sea Foam. I did 2oz per gallon in the tank. After it ran through, I didn’t have the issue anymore!!! I also ran another 2oz per gallon in the next fill up. That was around 3OOO miles ago! I have my power back and it seems to have fixed the problem!!
our duramax is the same way the oily air from the pcv mixes with the soot from the egr and plugs up the intake
Marc Somers
Re route the PCV to the atmosphere past the cab.
i also read on ford forum room to drill a hole, how bout a rubber plug to seal hole then remove to drain, thanx
I've been thinking about drilling and plugging, just draining every oil change. Did you ever do this and if so can you recommend a plug?
A sound idea. The turbos will maintain full boost as long as the hole isn't too big. The just delay opening the wastegates as needed. You'd only lose a very small amount of boost at maximum boost and at high altitude. Any gunk simply gets forced out.
I have a 2013 eco boost mine is doing the same thing it spits and sputters is when I give it gas and go to pass someone or if I try and keep it in 6th gear I just hook it up to computer and it said cam shaft sensor and timming sensor the truck has 238,000 miles and it runs great other than this never have had a problem until now I am just wondering if I should drill the same hole in mine
I drilled two 1/16 holes. Oil came out close to a tar consistency. Fixed the engine stumble. Acts like a new car
It's hard top argue with that. Do you have a oil spot where you park?
I wonder if ford is going to come out with a TSB that adds a hole to the intercooler and a catch can to recover and recycle the liquid into the PCV intake port on the inlet of the turbos?
Does this also apply to 2.0 Ecoboost Fusions?
hopefully ford could create a factory bleed valve of some sort to fix the problem on newer models.
Also could a catch can eliminate most of the oil building up in it?
Would a catch can system aid on this?
Haven't had an issue on my 12 3.5 but I might do this anyways just to avoid a future problem. Live in a pretty dry climate out here in the high desert so maybe that's why you don't see this crop up in this area as much.
might want to check resetting that oil change in the system panel. i have a 2015 eco and i believe it know if ive been towing or off-roading a lot, and may decrease my intervals, but 7500-10000 miles is too long for me. you can decrease the settings, but still one of the best ways is to write it down. like we have done since the beginning of time lol
Just experienced this for the first time at 101,000 miles. Decided to take to Ford (still under warranty). They replaced the plugs, with the #4 cylinder plug being cracked. They covered a new coil for that cylinder, and labor. I paid for the plugs and diagnostic fee.
Back to normal for now, we’ll see what happens moving forward.
Ford warranty ends at 60,000 miles for ecoboost f150 so yeah please stop telling lies
Working on one now same problem but I'm going to figure out the right way to fix it and I'll let you know what I find.
Did you ever figure it out
Same for TDI if you have oil in your intake, a self tap screw in intercooler and drain every oil change.
best answer yet
2nd gen 3.5 in 2017s have a different inner cooler. Will never have to drain one. Turbos will draw it out when it reaches about 1/4 on the bottom. if your gassing it both will draw any condensation out . You might want to put a screw in that hole so some oil gets to the turbos. It appears ford found a fix or decided to do something since they was getting a bad rap on the echos
I have a 2014 with 82K on it currently in ND. I have been having this shudder issue for that past couple (summer) months. Im looking into doing this to my pickup very soon.
original spark plugs i got 49k on mine ?
update. I did not drill the hole. I had a shop change coil pack, plugs and wires. My pickup runs great with no issues now.
But it will keep returning, and I’m sure, the mechanic knows this, but just not gunna say
Not condensate, not oil seals in turbo, that is just oil build up from engine blow by. EVERY turbo or boosted engine has it and the only way to REDUCE it is with a catch can on the pcv system but you will never get it 100 percent. This is just a band aid fix because you are still getting the intercooler internally coated with oil greatly reducing its efficiency.
Could this be the cause for water in my oil? I have the same truck and change oil every 3000 miles. I usually have atleast a half quart of water in the oil. Atleast I think it must be water because it doesn't smell like gas and I always add 6 quarts and around 6.5 usually drains out
Have 208000kms on my 14 ecoboost and have never had the misfire except when plugs get worn
Mark Bulva How often do you replace your plugs? My dads truck only has 60k miles and is misfiring hard would you think it this or the plugs?
@@BookerTJohnson I’ve done my plugs twice. First time was about 70-80k kms which is 45-50k miles but when my truck is at work it sees tons of hrs of idling so the way I see it plugs are cheap so I’ll do them every 60k kms. and they don’t like big gap w stock coils so keep it .028-.030 when new
wouldnt installing a capped off hose or nozzle into the bottom of the IC and emptying it out every oil change be a better solution than creating a boost leak? .
It seems counter-intuitive to create a boost/vacuum leak, just catch can it and retain the correct pressure. I am not sure how many bars you are losing by drilling a hole in a sealed system like this. Not sure the fix is a reasonable tradeoff.
Did you try step colder plugs? If your making to much power for the spark it will miss fire under full throttle you need go step colder plugs. Maybe what happen was the hole in the inter cooler looses boost thus he loses power and it stops the misfire lol. If yall already did that then idk what is just asking.
usually oil in the charge pipes means your turbo needs to be rebuilt soon
I never looked at the PCV systems of cars that came turbocharged from the factory. Normally when i turbo a car i delete the stock PCV system. I prefer to use a catch can with a breather .....
The Tool Guy usually it has the pcv on the intake manifold or right before the throttle body. Oil in the intercooler or charge pipe means bad turbo.
The Tool Guy after the turbo? Or before?
The Tool Guy for the sake of having a laugh I'm going to respond after being called a dumb ass for no reason lol.
All pcv systems I've seen are all after the turbo and before the throttle or on the intake manifold itself. I don't see why a manufacturer would want oil to be fed to the inlet of the turbo. What ever oil is at the piping or intercooler is coming from the turbo, I guarantee it.
Also, why would a hole in the intercooler fix the problem? Your letting out air that the maf sensor already accounted for. There is obviously more problems than meets the eye. My guess its a bad turbo, and the excess oil is messing with the maf and or fouling the plugs and causing the miss fire.
How old are you tool guy?
The Tool Guy where did I say the "turbo magically makes the oil go away"? Arm chair warrior? You're the one calling names. Lol. Tough guy.
There's a breather and there's a pcv. Pre turbo is a breather after that is a pcv. By the way, a pcv is a one way check valve, no boost in the crank case no matter where you put it.
What was fords TSB on this if it's a common issue?
Ford's TSB is to replace the intercooler and install different shields. But I've heard that it can cause slight performance decreases, loss of fuel mileage, and sometimes not even fix the problem. Plus, those intercoolers are upwards of a grand, drilling a little hole didn't cost us anything.
+DanielJaegerFilms why not install a catch can?
Nissanquasquicars
Can confirm that on our 2015 f-150 3.5 ecoboost the replacement intercooler did not fix anything. We still had problems with it continually after that.
briskmlg so what did u end up doing?
with a hole in the intercooler won't the maf sensor before the intercooler send the wrong signal for airflow?
It would sense a slight dip in the air pressure, and hold the wastegates closed just a hair longer. So no. It would send the rIght signal
Whats years of ecoboost does this benefit
why not add an oil catch can or two of them?
What are the symptoms of the misfire problem? I have a 2016 that will throw an intermittent wrench light cruising at 65mph with cruise control. Recently help with wrench light issue replacing the trans oil pump.
My 2012 Ecoboost only gets ~13-14 MPG and that's with it set to ~60 MPH on cruise going to and from work everyday. I think I need to change my plugs, drill my weep hole, and get a catch can since I had to replace my MAP sensor on top of the intake when I got the truck, with 68k miles on it, since it wasn't just dirty but permanently discolored. That has only been a month back but I've watched the MPG steadily drop from around 16-17 MPG to around 13 MPG now which is what I was getting in my 05 Yukon Denali with a big 6L Vortec.
So i have a 2011 king ranch with over 200k miles. had a P0016 code for the camshaft position sensor bank 1 sensor A 6 months ago. i put a new one in and it was fine until today. that is what led me to this video. is drilling this hole going to fix my issue as well? or do i have the dreaded stretched timing chain?
While I worked at a Ford shop I noticed these 3.5L ecoboost engines really never had any issues
A lot of pelple were nervous about these engines but Ford said they were the 'upgrade' from the naturally aspirated V8 (Coyote?)
This is a fucking piece of shit
Benny wurz is mad he got a 5.0 instead of 3.5
@@bigf1502 I have several Ford trucks, both the 5.0 and 3.5 EcoBoost. The EcoBoost is major pain in the Ass!
Well other then the timing chain and phaser issue not unlike the 5.4L did...so 10+ years latter...same issue different flavor. Oh yeah and exhaust manifolds...been through several and several turbos too!
This is the first thing every eco-boost owner should do when they purchase their vehicle new or used
I recommend getting the oil separator with catch can instead. This does work however oil/moisture will still make it to the cylinders. Reason I say catch can is these are direct injection so any oil that makes it back will carbonize on the valves which is already an issue with these Ecoboost engines
But if it already has the build up in the inter cooler the hole will take care of that and you can run a screw or something back in it if you want
@@ryanford7836 true. However the separator catches it closer to the intake opposed to the bottom also just drilling the intercooler leaves oil spots and drips on your skirt. I have it drilled myself cause I don't care about stains myself
I get the idea of condensation. But condensation creates water, not oil. So is drilling the hole solving 2 problems then? The 1st being the condensation and the 2nd being the oil entering the intake & coating the valves.
This happens on VW Jetta TDI's. Crankcase fumes from the PCV condense in the intercooler.
I changed my spark plugs but didn’t change anything, i tried changing the coils also but nothing, so now yesterday i drilled the hole on my intercooler but it did show a little improvement but it still does the same i press down on the gas and it still makes the sound! Any ideas on what else can i do?
Mauro Calderson Did you ever find out what it was?
Why didn't you just install a catch can to trap the oil?
Is y'all's shudder when you hammer on it only? Mine idles fine and drives ok if I take it easy. If I hammer on it I start to hear a whine behind my glove box and the check engine light will flash causing it to go into limp mode.
Mine does the sames as your, minus the glove box whine, the CEL, and limp mode.... I am swapping plugs, and if that doesn't work, drilling this hole...
@@DoyleHargraves I had a hole in the intercooler and still did the same thing. I just changed spark plugs and coil packs which didn't help either. I ordered a catch can so maybe that will help. If all else fails I'm going to buy new turbos and hope to GOD that fixes my problem. Keep me updated if you fix yours Doyle!
@@benhemoth4693 mine is starting to lokk more like axle wrap.
Isn't there a purge valve for the intercooler?
That's a pretty cool little fix! I have a dodge magnum with a 5.7 hemi and we were having issues with misfires and hesitation too but what we found was oil in the intake and we put a oil separater on it and zero problems afterwards. We found oil coming from the PCV. Maybe you could look into that too
Yeah that is another thing you can do on this engine. People often install catch cans in this hole shown in the vid. But, since the engine gets a lot of blow by from the turbo charged nature, a lot of oil, water, and gas gets circulated past the piston rings, and back into the air intake to be burned again. This increases engine life but decreases the amount of air and gas you can fit into a cylinder. Installing a catch can between that line that filters the air from the oil in a bronze filter or gravity catch will significantly reduce the oil content in the air intake. This is a common problem in forced induction engines but also occurs in naturally asperated engines.
boost pressure leak ?
yes..
Very minimal
Oh yes, minimal leak is fine. Seriously?
there is, dont buy eco boost
Leadfoot21
I see a lot of pople saying this is INSANE and some saying it's a decent fix.
I have been going through sparkplugs CONSTANTLY on my high mileage f150 ecoboost. Same year, 2011.
They come out cracked and looking like shit, and gapping all off with barely 10,000 - 15,000 on them.
Always OEM plugs, gapped to .30
This intercooler has the TSB plastic cover installed to the bottom of the intercooler to reduce the intake but I have NEVER been able to put the pedal to the metal without it causing a misfire and then soon after need to replace plugs.
I don't plan on keeping this truck much longer but I desperately need a fix in the mean time.
Could this be it? Or does anyone have any other suggestions without spending a fortune?
Curious.... have you resolved the issue with your spark plugs cracking? And was your engine diagnosed with a misfire by a technician or does it just "feel like a misfire" without having it properly diagnosed? Thanks!
why don't you use a drain petcock and panelbond to seal it.....drain it once in a while and put a catch can system on and eliminate the problem permanently
@Jerrammie Villanueva suggested a catch can and I'd agree with him. A catch can would probably work. Or at least with the current solution you could tap the hole, throw a fitting in there, then use some flexible tubing to make a cheap catch bottle out of a small mayo bottle or something. Then put another hole in the lid and put a one way check valve in it to prevent a vaccum from pulling things in to the hole on vaccum. Or hell, if you don't care whats coming out and want to avoid blowing crud all over your truck, you could just tap the hole and screw a little check valve in to it, then run a tiny length of tube below where the oil would blow from the hole
Although where is this oil coming from? An EGR or PCV Valve? I guess I can sort of see the logic of putting the EGR or PCV before the turbos, due to the fact that you're going to have more vacuum before them but wouldn't that mean that you're cooking oil on to the compressor wheels which could cause them to fail early due to to bearing wear from having weird unbalanced loads on the compressor fins? I mean, living in the motor city I have friends who are engineers at Ford and GM and they're not dumb people, but you'd think that they would think of this failure mode. There has to be some logical trade off.
Thanks a bunch man I was worried about my truck I just bout it 3 months ago
I have 2014 f150 3.5l ecoboost that was bought with 130k km and it had really bad misfire on cold start up, everything changed when i installed mishimoto catch cans(driver and passenger side) i changed spark plugs and cleaned all 3 sensors on throttle body etc, it took about 5-7k km to.clean up and engine starts up as smooth as new, as far as drilling a hole in the intercooler its a big mistake and will definitely void warranty on new vehicles.
Get a quality catch can and you will never have misfire or shaking on start up!
The amount of crap these cans catch between oil changes is mind blowing, really suprising that Ford hasn't addressed that issue as standard recal.
My Lincoln mkt has this problem. Got the drill out already
So this doesn't fall under a boost leak?
I done this on my 2014 F-150 Ecoboost and solved the misfire out on the highway with high humidity.
Had to think about this one a bit. The Boost leakage is a very small amount of air vs amount being supplied. It's a non issue. There is probably a bit of goo on the inside where the hole is, so I would bet the air being sucked in would capture most of if not all the contaminates that got in. That area is in an area where you would not see much dust anyway due to the way the air moves around that region. That is a pretty protected area. And being a boosted engine in a heavy truck, I would bet the times a vacuum large enough to pull any contamination through that tiny hole would be minimal at best. You would get more dirt from other sources already in the system.
American Rambler you realize that this is a positive pressure system, right? There will be air forced OUT the hole, which not only will make the truck run worse, or at the very least weak. Air intake on fuel injected vehicles is a very delicate and intricate system, especially ones using forced induction. Putting any holes in the system will throw it out of balance and cause a boost leak.
The air leakage from a 1/16 hole looks like a leaky nail in a tire, after thumbing some spit on it. So compared to the volume of air that runs through system, it’s not noticed in the slightest and the system is still pressurized…
Why not tap a drain valve into the intercooler reachable below the shrouding?
is this like the same thing as using a catch can? It's defiantly cheaper! I gotta try this. 230660 mls on my truck. Replacing plugs more often than needed. Just changed the ignition coil on cylinder 4, no change. About to over haul the fuel injectors. Getting the flashing engine light. P0304. Hope this works! I'll let ya know
This works did mine at 50 k miles ..now 300,000 miles no problem
Where is the oil comming ?. turbo ?.
38911bytefree a little from the turbo a little from pcv. it's got a lot of miles on it, so this can be expected. a small amount of oil really isn't a concern. Most likely, the water condensation was the real cause of the miss fire.
why tf is there oil in the intercooler?
melody Hart basically every turbocharger leaks a small amount of oil and it builds up over time. it's nearly impossible to perfectly seal the pressure fed bearings inside the unit from leaking any oil out. pull the charge air line off any intercooler from an engine with this kind of miles on it, and you'll find oil inside. Some comes from the PCV line as well which constantly spews oil vapors on any engine.
Melody oil in every intercooler ever made........even on a new car. I would tear off wrx intercoolers on warranty clutch jobs. Sometimes with less than 3 k on them. Guess what, oil in the intercooler, you just get used to it.
Wow, okay. Do you ever need to worry about it or drain it out?
You can install a catch can. www.summitracing.com/parts/mio-mmocc-cf?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-mishimoto&gclid=CKqU9_784tACFY1XDQodw3QLWw
Yeah the catch can wouldn't block oil from the turbo seals....
So does that mean all wrxs have cheaply made seals that wear out quickly? What y'all said is conflicting.
the idea for this came from back in the day Volvos. They had 3/32 holes from the factory for this very reason. As a guy that bought his first new truck and has had to deal with this shit, and no help from Ford, I can tell you this is beyond frustrating. Still love my EB. I have had the condensation issue within an hour of driving in the right/wrong conditions. I had the 1st Gen deflector plates. The 2nd gen deflector plates. The redesigned intercooler. It finally comes down to I need to be able to drive this damn thing and I am not rich enough to just simply swap out vehicles. This solves it. BTW, after the turbos but before the throttle body is almost always under boost. It's always been 1psi or more. And if you think a small hole like that is going to cause a problem you're wrong. I've seen 18 lbs of boost going thru that 3 inch pipe. That's after the hole was drilled.
A bunch of green stuff came out ...should I be worried?
Un Real That's normal.
Where is the hole???
Now its also a oil catch can, keeping the valves clean.
you could try adding a moisture trap to stop the oil residue
All you did by putting a hole in the intercooler was lower the boost. Did you try new plugs gapped at
.030"? If lowering the boost stopped the mlsfire the problem was the plugs gapped too wide.
Is that the injectors or timing chain rattle?
wouldn't drilling a hole in intercooler decrease intake pressure?
so consensus is a catch can but clean out the intercooler?
Drilling a hole in the intercooler will allow debris to enter the intercooler, yes it will push out condensation but the trade off don’t make since. Maybe you should block off some of the intercooler so the air temp will not drop to a level such to create condensation. This is called reaching a dew point via delta temps across the intercooler coil. Blocking off part of the intercooler will produce the same effect, and will prevent from damaging the engine over a long period of time by introducing debris into the turbos and engine components.
There is air being forced into the intercooler, therfore making positive pressure. Nothing will be pulled into the 1/16th hole.
that makes sense. I wasn't thinking before I asked the question.
You said that he's only done oil changes, spark plugs and coils. Out of curiosity, what was the check engine light for later on in the video? It obviously wasn't something crippling, because he continues to drive the truck, but apparently oil changes, plugs and coils aren't all it needs. I'm looking at getting a 2011 Eco used right now, which is why I ask.
Cameron Kelson. The key was on, but It was not running... I think.
Cameron Kelson the tachometer wss resting on zero. the light was on because the engine was not running.
why doesn't it lose boost pressure? surely a hole in the intercooler would leak air pressure
I'd try a oil catch can on the PCV before drilling any holes . It would be a two birds one stone thing too.
Anom Amos catch can won’t stop the condensation issue, only mitigates the oil blow by. Condensation is forming from the drastic drop in hot compressed air coming from turbos to begin rapidly cooled in cooler to throttle body
did the catch can a couple months ago as well as updated to the brown pcv valve with no change in the acceleration shudder
How many people have done this, and feel that it fixed the issue?
I did. Without a doubt it solved the only problem I had with my truck since it was new. I did it 5 years ago.
This will make the turbo work harder and potentially reduce life but interesting thanks for sharing.
One old logger boy has way over 300,000 miles on his '11 Ecoboost. I don't think he even drilled that hole. I'm putting a catch can on my '15. All direct injection engines need one. It's direct injection that causes issues, not turbos.
Don't understand how this would work. If I had a leak on any silicone coupler on my Supra, it would cause boost issues.
Its draining the moisture out of it
Since you are adding a hole to the intercooler, are you loosing boost pressure since air is just going to be continuously blowing out the hole?
Ihaveworms A small hole won't make much difference.
The turbos can easily compensate for such a small hole.. keep in mind the engine consumes air constantly that the the turbos provide and would easily over pressurize the engine at wot and high rpms if it was not regulated. That small hole is no issue.
Ihaveworms the other commenters and yourself are right, you will lose pressure, it won't matter because the turbo will make its pressure quota anyway, the real problem is now the mismatch between measured air at the air flow sensor and actual air entering the engine. this constitutes an intake leak, throwing the fuel trims off. a real problem on a turbo motor, the trims may even swing between positive and negative depending on driving conditions (uphill on a Fwy vs 25mph on flat ground, fuel trims responding to high boost vs negative pressure in the intake)
potentially making diagnosis confusing/difficult
I am certain that the difference in air volume vs measured pre compressor is well within the margin of error of the sensor array of sensors that indicate the actual quantity of air being fed into the engine. Failing that, even if it DID make a difference, the result would be a slightly rich mixture since there would be in theory less air present than calculated, and rich never killed a motor. Lean will eat a piston in short order. Worst you'd do is foul a plug.
If you wanted to be super anal about it and I don't remember which side of the throttle plate this is in the system, worst case under a decelerating high rpm vacuum condition you could suck a little dirt in, so maybe routing that port through an oil filter might be an option to make as a make shift air cleaner.
Real world difference: Zero.
Dummy. The turbo will have to overspin to generate the same pressure, reducing its service life and, in some cases, causing failed bearings and center shafts. The way to do this, if one wants to do some drilling, is to make that hole, install a boss and then run a line to something on the intake side. This way pooled water will collect and disperse and no metered air will be lost. I also can't believe this was a problem from new. It's likely the intercooler is so dirty inside that the water is collecting in some bad areas due to sludge. I'm sure this guy never suggested an IC clean.