Quick heads up, I called my ford dealer who has had my 2015 (123k) Expedition in there for multiple coil replacements and spark plugs. They told me the next thing that it had to be was coolant getting into the cylinder. This would require them to take a camera, shoot the inside of the cylinder then recommend replacing the head if there was evident moisture. I asked what the cost would be and they said roughly $2,200. (Bay Area CA). That said, I found this video after reading a bunch of threads. Within the first minute the expo ran smoother, after a couple pulls up and down the street the light was going away much quicker. My TS live-wire monitor was not even picking up the DTC or codes at all. Then on the final pull, I held it wide open to 100mph and no light came on. Literally a five minute fix. Saved me a small fortune. Thank you!
Everyone - I have a 2016 Ford F-150 3.5 Ecoboost I’ve been dealing with the same annoying issue and have been trying to figure it out. IT ENDED UP BEING SPARK PLUGS AND COILS - MAKE SURE YOU GET OEM FORD ONES ONLY. I did do a aftermarket plug and coil and it went bad in a week. Very happy the truck is running good now! Take care.
i have been saying this is a need on intercooled vehicles for years, im glad people are starting to DIY the fix. my friends mini had this issue, oil evap oil form the intercooler would make its way into the cylinder under boost and cause a misfire. whether or not it was the problem, that garbage doesnt need to be in there. nice post!
I have a 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with GDI. At 39K miles, I installed the Mishimoto catch cans(wish I would have done earlier). I empty the 2 cans on every oil change and I am always thankful that crap was not fed back into the intake. I have never had the problems listed in this video(73k miles now).
The drilling of the hole AND the plugs were the correct fix. The factory plugs were worn prematurely from being fouled by the moisture. This requires BOTH drilling and Plugs to fix.
Exactly! He thought it wasn’t the hole well it is and old plugs were bad because of the junk and the hole now won’t allow the new plugs to get fouled and ruined.
Fixed my 2014 XLT eco boost. Exact issue with brown tip spark plugs (that only had 12K miles on them). Drilled 1/16" hole, rev'd engine to remove black oily liquid. Then, replaced with all new plugs. Issue solved. Thanks WLA!
you did fine with drilling the weep hole. The sludge that was in the inner cooler was what caused the plugs to foul out and give you the misfire. Also it a good idea to clean all 3 of your map sensors. And plugs should be changed ever 35,000 miles hope you having great luck with your truck
Change the plugs at 60k miles. If you ever pull a coil then you should go ahead and change the plug since it's right there ($6). Do the weep hole mod and clear out the contaminants then install an oil-catch-can (separator) on both sides. This should eliminate the buildup in the first, and also prevent the recirculation back into the intake that corrupts the valves in the end (which they don't have a fix/process for). Keep the oil changed every 3-5k max despite the BS oil schedule published (this was to hack the EPA numbers not help maintenance in any way. The oil schedule on this 3.5 is wrong by any engineering standard being a direct injection turbo (ask an expert). Use Top-Tier detergent gasoline (high octane recommended b/c turbo ) since this will help valve buildup in the direct injection system and keep the injectors clean. The next thing to change is upgrade the oil pump to a high volume and do the timing update while that part of the engine is exposed. Then you can enjoy a kickass motor for HUNDREDS-Of-THOUSANDS of miles.
@@Rottingboards video on oil pump upgrade. He's got a catch can video as well not sure his link on that part still works: th-cam.com/video/NJ2PYXTVjkI/w-d-xo.html
Catch can system is the answer, not drilling holes. The other problem that is happening is intake valve coking, C.C. System helps to prevent coking, into intake Valves coking cause loss of power when it gets bad enough. Ford is re-engineering the GDI system to eliminate the problem. Gas Direct Injection.
Correct!! The 2018 and above have worked to eliminate this problem thankfully. I just ordered two catch-can's, (one for each bank) and my 2016 4.5 Ecoboost has nearly 123,000 on it, so I'm sure I have far too much gunk in the system, so I'm looking forward at getting this gone. I know All the maintenance has been done at the same Ford dealership since new, so I plan on going out and get a print-out of all the service from the truck, so I have an idea of what, and when I should be doing specific maintenance on the truck. I'm hoping for longevity, or getting it as long as I can, as I plan on keeping this truck for a long time! Love how it runs, and the power output!
I had the Check Engine light on for about 2 weeks since I got the code saying I had a misfire. I drilled the hole in the inter cooler drove it for 2 days hard to push all the junk out. And the light went off and it runs like a champ. I must say I also cleaned my Roush Air Filter as well. It was way over due so I'm sure that had something to do with it as well.
For me the problem went away when I installed a oil catch can, the K&N air filter system, Dual pipes, MSD coils and the SCT X4 programmer. More power and the take off is powerful.
Hello Sir; thanks for the video. We have a 2015 -F150 3.5 Liter Eco Boost V6. When we pull a *3000 lb. trailer we get the Detonation or Preignition from this engine. It is best if you release the accelerator to stop engine damage if this happens. This is very stressful on a long journey when you want to get to your destination. I believe Ford is a super USA company, but it seems they are too lazy or cheap to offer a fix for this problem. I did learn to ONLY USE FORD MOTORCRAFT SPARK PLUGS AND COILS WHEN REPLACING PARTS TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. I even bought a engine analyzer to use after this knocking. By the way I never get any warning lights when this happens. I'll let you know what my analyzer says after I trouble shoot. Best of Luck. (The truck drives excellent and is very comfortable with good gas mileage.)
my 2011 f150 was doing the same, i put plugs drilled the hole ran it for 6 month, still the same, im going to replace the coils, hope they will work 112322 miles
I just drilled my 2016 in the exact same spot, and got very little oil, although it was a black colour. Haven't started it yet, and since it's pouring rain, I'll just have to hope that I get more as I drive it. Thanks for the tip, and I think I'll leave mine open all the time.
@@buixrule some peeps screw a non corrosive screw into the hole to close it just as a fail safe, then periodically remove screw just to drain, but it’s an unnecessary measure. Unless u park truck in the living room and don’t want random drip marks on their nice carpet, tile, etc..
I shoot intake cleaner through that little hole while the engine is running about 2000 RPM. That cleans the gum buildup off the valve stems. That bypasses the sensors in the intake system so the cleaner does not damage them
The same thing is happening to my 2013 ford and I will follow and do the same thing you did hopefully my vehicle will improve for the better thank you for making this video!
Do you have a catch-can, to keep this gunk out of your truck? Check out 'catch-can mods for the F150' as it's a well known fact that these trucks need one, as even the top mechanics are saying the same thing now.
What comes out is emulgated/mixed oil and water, moisture comes in through the airfilter and blends up with the engine vent. Nasty stuff you should keep out of your engine at any price, try an external breather canister...a little expensive but solve a LOT of problems Bro !
I've ordered two 'catch-cans' (one for each bank) to collect all this nasty crud. Saw a video of a fellow who did this to his F150 Ecoboost, and for the first while, he was filling the collection device 'full' of that nasty stuff! It apparently takes a while to get much of it out of there for those that don't have one, as it's had a lot of time to build up in there! It's important for all turboed vehicles to have a catch-can system, so the oil/gasses from the PVC don't continue to re-route it back into the manifold!
I drilled my weep hole in 2016. The lower valance is always covered in oil and crud because this thing spits so much crap out of it. If you're hesitant about this don't be.
Great video and good info. One question, after drilling the weep hole and letting it drain a couple days. Did you put a plug/screw back in the hole or you just leave it open???
Yea I'm gonna try this. I have a 2012 and I found there is a Technical Service Bulletin out there regarding misfiring. If your plug is showing carbon tracks then replace all of them and the coil boots. You could possibly bring it to a dealership since it's an official bulletin but I've heard a lot of them will argue and say it's not covered. The parts are cheap and easy to do yourself. For record I had a code for cylinder 2 misfire, replaced plug and coil pack and still had misfires.
I experienced the misfiring on my used 2011 3.5L that I had recently purchased, on a return trip from South Dakota. After struggling with it for a lot of miles I made it to Idaho. Took it to the local dealer and had them check it out, I hadn’t found all the videos on TH-cam about the DIY fixes. The dealer dealt with the plugs and associated hardware but they also reprogrammed the ECM module; I know the plugs and hardware helped but I think the reprogram did a lot to fix the misfiring I experienced.
I have 2011 F-150 3.5 eco with 122k miles doing the same thing. I changed the spark plugs and didn’t change. Drill the hole and just water came out. Going to drive it a couple days like you said and see what happen. How is your doing now?
If you installed the plugs prior to drilling the hole in the inter-cooler , the water may have already compromised the plugs.I would check the plugs again. That's one reason I waited to install the plugs . Check your coils to . I had one bad one . Good Luck !!
also a better fix to prevent oil from getting into the intecooler in the first place is to add an aftermarket catch can which goes between the pcv breather and the intake pipe, it will catch all the oil droplets and only alow crank case air into the inlet tract.
The condensation is what caused your spark plugs to file out in the first place. So yea it was the root of the problem. If you would have changed the spark plugs first you would just filed out another set of plugs
I will try this method. I have been having the stutter problem for weeks. I have cleaned out all the plastics going to and from the cooler and everywhere else. I avail. Next to is to see if one or two of my coils are bad.
The coils should still be good, check the gap on the plugs, both old and new. The gaps were horribly off on my new ones and grossly different on the originals. I very carefully adjusted them and I’ve had no issues for 30k mi now.
Problem is once the crud is sucked up into the intake it’s going foul plugs and cause problems. Catch can prevents the problem after you fix the problem
So if you have a catch can you don't need to drill the hole? If it didn't have a catch can until about 100k miles then got one, then would it be best to drill one to drain whatever's in there already?
@ Cole Campbell. Correct. New vehicle + catch can = no problem. Catch can collects carbon blow by before it goes through intake. Old vehicle + new catch can. Drill the hole to 7/16. No bigger. Plug after it’s drained with small screw. Synthetic oil makes a big difference to. I have 85,000 miles and synthetic is the only oil I use. When I remove the screw ,only a drop or two comes out at start up.
@@colecampbell1906 - I've got nearly 123,000 miles on my 2016, and I've just ordered two catch-can's for my truck (one for each bank). This is the first I've heard of the 'drill a hole' possibility, but it's basically doing what a catch-can will do, and that's to collect the crud in the intercooler and tubes, that has come from the PCV valve, which directs this oil/moisture/fuel mix and puts it back into the manifold, so it will get re-burned. Thus, the catch-can, catches all this oil/moisture/fuel and puts it into the catch-can, and you dump it out as the can's fill up. Once installed, for the first while, you'll have to empty them pretty regularly, but once most of what's in their is captured, the frequency of needing to empty them is far less..down to perhaps once every oil change some say, albeit I'll probably check mine every couple of weeks after the majority of it has been collected.
@@colecampbell1906 - ALL turbo charged engines, should have a catch-can setup, as the PCV valve sends all this crud into the manifold to return, which then fouls the intake valves. Saves the engine for longevity! They really, aren't that expensive...albeit there are companies that have made up their own system, who want far too much for their system, but many many guys have added catch-can's from Ebay or Amazon, and they're doing the job just fine, for under $100.00. Check out F150's and catch-can's on TH-cam, as there are LOTS of video's on it.
I just fixed a customers truck recently by simply regaping the plugs back to factory spec, I told him he should replace the plugs this fall before winter, but this would get him by in the mean time. he had cylinder 3 misfire, but the truck would not flag a code until it was so bad that the ecu shut down coil pack number 3, which it turned back on after a few miles. any ways I regapped the plugs to .030 from being worn down to .048 and the miss was gone and the truck pulled like it was intended to with no more miss.
That is EXACTLY what mine was doing. Had the check engine light, change the coil #6, helped but still came back. Changed plugs, helped but came back, then coil #2 showed bad, changed it, helped but now I'm gonna drill this damn hole and see how it goes. I have a 2011 with 125,000
I just bought a 2016 XLT with the 3.5 Ecoboost, and it runs perfect! I plan on adding a catch-can, but have some interest in this 'hole' as I'm sure there is crud in mine, as I have just under 123,000 on mine now. LOVE the truck, but do want some longevity, so I'll do what it takes to get it!
If it’s been over 75000 miles since your last tune up , I would do that to , new coils and plugs. I did another video on that as wall, acceleration skip.
I just bought a 2014 F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost and it was only getting about 12 mpg the first so I decided to go to an less traveled county road and blow it out a bit and I floored it and it coughed and sputtered for a few seconds and the check engine light came on for about five seconds blinking away and then it stopped. The funny thing is that it went to 16 mpg after that which was good but it still does the coughing and sputtering if I floor it.
@@samuelyeet6006 I put new plugs in it, cleaned the mass air flow censors and changed the air filter and it now gets about 17 on the hwy but I don`t think the gear ratio is very good for gas mileage since the RPM`s are way up there at 75 mph.
@@samuelyeet6006 No, it shits and gets! I sure as hell don`t get why anyone would bitch about a 6 banger in a truck, at least not this Ecoboost, this damn thing has power out the ass with the only down side is that they really don`t get much better gas mileage than an 8 and I heard that the plugs foul kind of easy. Love the truck though and have owned Ford, Chevy and Ram with all having good and bad things about all of them. I think of all of the ones I`ve owned so far I like this Ford the best.
The weep hole will help clean your intercooler , but you have to plug the hole really good and tight with a threaded bolt and some Teflon tape because the boost pressure CAN NOT ESCAPE, otherwise will throw codes and lower your power. Best way would be to remove and clean the intercooler inside with some diesel, dry it and then put the weep hole with the bolt for future drainage, and in the same time install catch cans
Great video, I have a 2018 2.7 eco boost, 12,100 miles, ( retired, do very little driving with this truck) in 5 years. Same problems, going to drill hole in inter cooler. Have all new plugs and coil packs. Will drill hole first. Very damp in upstate SC. Especially this year (2023). If this doesn't work I am going to shoot this varmint!
The header mentions 2019, is that a 2019 with that many miles. I was wondering if the 2018 and 2019 and + models had the problem. If I drill mine, I will epoxy a barbed fitting into it and run a capped down tube for manual service at oil change time. That how some Honda motorcycles are fitted.
Never had a “EcoBoost” until now on a 2020. I’ve been trying to be proactive from the beginning (trucks simply cost way to much to recycle). I’ve already put a oil catch can on but not sure if drilling the hole in the intercooler is also needed. Seems like the oil/condensation will still be in the cooler with it without a can? Maybe all this has been addressed by Ford now with the gas being added above & inside the cylinder? One have anything to do with the other?
This is only an issue on earlier Ecoboost F150s. They came out with a new CAC design that does not cause this issue anymore. I have a 2016 with 72k miles and have never had this issue. It's only on 2011-2014's I believe. I"ve got to work on my father in laws truck this weekend to get ride of the same issues Wild Life Adventure is having. His is a 2011.
Ford has updated/modified the EcoBoost very much sence the first gen. I know they also added something that opens and closes on the intercooler on the news ones that is supposed to eliminate the condensation issue. As well as the GDI issue, like you said
Any change in your mpg? I just bought a 2014 F-150 3.5L with 105,000 miles. It runs great but I only get around 15-16 mpg’s. I was hoping for 18-20 mpg’s as I mostly put on highway miles. I’m not sure if the plugs have ever been changed as I just bought it. I’ve read on forums that they should be changed much more frequently than Ford’s recommendation of every 100,000 miles. Did you notice any change in mpg’s? Did you measure the gaps on the old plugs? What gap did the new plugs have?
My 2015 F150 3.5 eb needs plugs changed by 35k miles. First set went 35k miles and power / gas mileage went down. Original plugs were worn to .045 gap. I gap new ones at 30 and now replace them at 30k miles. I've also had one coil go bad at 40k miles
@@JasonW. - I've heard that some mechanics are saying to change them out at 50K to be on the safe side, haven't heard any as low as 30K. Yes, .045 is far too much. .030 is correct.
@@dalewatkins9889 I'm on the 4th set of plugs now at 85k miles. They go in at .030 and come put at .045 gap. Using Ford Motorcraft plugs for first 3 sets, but had to buy Autolite for last set about 5k miles ago. This motor eats plugs. I tow, but about 10% of the time, and less than 5k lbs.
My 2013 3.5 would cut out and check engine light would flash when I floored it. I changed plugs and coil packs and its like new. I still want to drill the hole though.
Just because the cylinder threw a code does necessarily mean its a coil,i had a bad plug,changed them out and it runs excellent,always start with plugs,if that dont do it then yes change the coil
I am having this same issue with my 2013 ecoboost. I have changed my plugs but didn’t solve my issue. When I lived in Wyoming and Kansas I never had any issue but now since o moved to Florida it has been doing it more frequently so I guess I should drill a hole in my inter piper to fix this issue? I am curious because one comment said you accidentally drilled into the oil line that circulates through your intercooler?
I have a 2012 eco f150. Completely took mine out. Got a 1/3 solo cup full of junk out of it. Drilled the tiny hole. No issues what so ever. There was no oil line in it. Hope this helps.
Its not a radiator with the trans cooler line running thru. What Oil line? lol I see his mind was running, but lets think - if I hit an oil line, wouldnt the pressure be great - like squirting, and wouldnt it be black oil? this is CLEARLY contaminates, not oil alone.
@@yongato I used to argue with this but I can tell you for sure my truck stays under boost all the time, even at cruising speeds, I plugged mine back up, got 2mpg's back, now I just drain it when I change the oil
So what fixed the problem? Just switching out the plugs? How about the coil pack? I have the same thing going on 2018 3.5 with 102K miles. P0306 error code (#6 cylinder misfire) came on yesterday when I hit the throttle on freeway ramp. I love my truck. I just wish I could put a Toyota tundra engine inside of it.
replacing the plugs will work for awhile but you need to address the problem at hand. the problem is that the CAC is filling with water due to condensation in the engine and sucking it into the engine fouling the plugs. this weep hole hack does fix the problem. it allows the condensation (water) to drain out of the CAC so it cant be sucked into the engine at high boost. i did this to my 2012 in 2014 and never had a misfire again. it is now 2021 and i still own the truck.
Have a 17' expedition with the 3.5. I have the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs back in the spring which helped for a few days, but same symptoms in just a matter of a week or two. When I replaced the spark plugs the front two cylinders ( 1 and 4 ) had a lot more black on them as if it was burning oil. I'm reluctant to start drilling into the intercooler though it seems like it would help. Does anyone have any other videos with actual footage of driving with the weep hole drilled and no other parts replaced?
I was having this issue on mine years ago. I replaced all the plugs and coils. Than I drilled the intercooler. It worked. However it does drain a lot and will leave little oil spots everywhere you go. If you want to do a mechanically proper solution get a catch can. Also Ford did do a manufacturer update for the fuel/air mixture and they changed the intercooler to one that doesn't perform as well to reduce the condensation build up. I did a lot of research so that's how I know of all these items. As I said tho all I did was coils, plugs and drilled a hole and have not had an issue since.
@@buzza2077 Thanks for the info. It's funny, since I made the comment, the expedition has not had any problems. A few times a week, i will floor it and do some quick starts. Since I've done that, it has not sputtered on start up like it used to, and it has not gone into lag mode from missing. I still have not drilled the hole, but I am keeping that option open when further problems arise.
@@nromes you know what you may have had is a valve that is carbonized and you running it hard cleaned it off. I know these engines have that problem too since they are direct injection. Nice engines but man they are touchy lol. I have 200k on mine now and my issues were when it was right at 75k so it's been good since than.
@@buzza2077 mine has just shy 150k miles. But problems arise within last 10k. It's our home and business vehicle. Miles add up quick for us. I love the power of the 3.5, but it is a pain to work on. I will be changing trans fluid and filter in the near future.
@@nromes yeah I did all my fluids twice now. I actually think it is easier than the triton 5.4 tho. I have a new issue that has popped up which I guess is rare but is expensive and that the cam sequencers are loosing oil pressure. That cause oil pressure to drain out of system which cause the tensioners to back off. So when you start the truck it rattles bad for a few seconds til the oil pressure rises again. It's about a $4k repair. My next truck is going to be an oldie. Old square body. Something I can tear apart and rebuild myself. I can't bring myself to pay almost $100k for a truck 😆
Now, go put a Stainless Steel Sheet metal screw in that hole like i did & take it out whn you change yr oil if you think you need to... my 2014 eccoboost was shuttering etc. engine light came on, i plugged my tester in it said cylinder 3 misfire, i cleared the code, went out punched it again, said cylinder said cylinder 4 , then 1, i not only replaced the plugs & made sure the gap was at .032, but also put new coils on cylinders 1, 3, & 4, pretty sure i did'nt need to but did any way, runs like the day i bought it new, also those iridium plugs in these eccoboost engines, yr manual says they are 100,000 mile plugs, change them at no more than 60,000 miles, it will save you the headache of thinking yr transmission is slipping 👍 , For Sure ....
Its like an airplane window. The airplane windows have holes in them, but its not large enough to cause an issue within the operating spectrum. That little hole might alter boost pressure by 1/100th of an pound, but its not enough to affect anything noticeable by the engine. this isnt like a vacuum leak where the slightest leak can foul the whole procedure.
The 3.5 EcoBoost engine is notorious for faulty or dirty throttle bodies and the high pressure fuel pump. Any loss of power hesitation code p0087 anything like that check those two things first.
@@ericromero4 mass air sensor is sensitive and can be damaged easily. also caution with throttle body as the butterfly can injure your fingers. fordmakeyouloco has a good video on this. good luck Eric
Buddy the hole did solve your problem you needed plugs yes but that junk was spraying on your plugs for a long time may have ruined them. So those plugs were bad so drilling the hole didn’t fix it all the way the plugs were already fouled. But now new plugs won’t get that junk on them! So the hole will keep that junk from spraying on the new plugs
I tell you how to fix that tiny 1/8th(or 16th) hole; get you a little mini threaded ball valve & thread it in there. Use em for plumbing all the time...they got all sorts of sizes. Thread it in and you're good to go. That's how you fix that boost leak 🙄
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Quick heads up, I called my ford dealer who has had my 2015 (123k) Expedition in there for multiple coil replacements and spark plugs. They told me the next thing that it had to be was coolant getting into the cylinder. This would require them to take a camera, shoot the inside of the cylinder then recommend replacing the head if there was evident moisture. I asked what the cost would be and they said roughly $2,200. (Bay Area CA). That said, I found this video after reading a bunch of threads. Within the first minute the expo ran smoother, after a couple pulls up and down the street the light was going away much quicker. My TS live-wire monitor was not even picking up the DTC or codes at all. Then on the final pull, I held it wide open to 100mph and no light came on. Literally a five minute fix. Saved me a small fortune. Thank you!
That sounds like me , run it up to 100mph :), Im glad it worked out for you !!
Thanks buddy for being patient and taking your time in teaching us what you know
I'm glad you find the tutorials helpful!
Absolutely my issue. Drain the intercooler, change plugs and clean MAP sensors. Different truck. Runs perfect.
Everyone - I have a 2016 Ford F-150 3.5 Ecoboost I’ve been dealing with the same annoying issue and have been trying to figure it out. IT ENDED UP BEING SPARK PLUGS AND COILS - MAKE SURE YOU GET OEM FORD ONES ONLY. I did do a aftermarket plug and coil and it went bad in a week. Very happy the truck is running good now! Take care.
Dang, within a week? I just ordered 6 aftermarket coils. We’ll see what happens
i have been saying this is a need on intercooled vehicles for years, im glad people are starting to DIY the fix. my friends mini had this issue, oil evap oil form the intercooler would make its way into the cylinder under boost and cause a misfire. whether or not it was the problem, that garbage doesnt need to be in there. nice post!
I have a 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost with GDI. At 39K miles, I installed the Mishimoto catch cans(wish I would have done earlier). I empty the 2 cans on every oil change and I am always thankful that crap was not fed back into the intake. I have never had the problems listed in this video(73k miles now).
Thanks for this! This problem was supposedly fixed after 2015 but maybe not. Seems like cheap insurance, esp for those of us in humid areas.
The drilling of the hole AND the plugs were the correct fix. The factory plugs were worn prematurely from being fouled by the moisture. This requires BOTH drilling and Plugs to fix.
Exactly! He thought it wasn’t the hole well it is and old plugs were bad because of the junk and the hole now won’t allow the new plugs to get fouled and ruined.
Do you need to cap the hole and or holes? And where is the best place to drill the holes?
@@ronlee247 right? Maybe a pressure valve at a boiling point height ? Idk.
Fixed my 2014 XLT eco boost. Exact issue with brown tip spark plugs (that only had 12K miles on them). Drilled 1/16" hole, rev'd engine to remove black oily liquid. Then, replaced with all new plugs. Issue solved. Thanks WLA!
you did fine with drilling the weep hole. The sludge that was in the inner cooler was what caused the plugs to foul out and give you the misfire. Also it a good idea to clean all 3 of your map sensors. And plugs should be changed ever 35,000 miles hope you having great luck with your truck
Joey , Great information!! My Truck has been doing good, No issues so far .
Wild Life Adventures good deal I order a oil catch can will be installing it this weekend. See how much junk it collects
@@joeyguidry3413 how did the catch can turn out?
Change the plugs at 60k miles. If you ever pull a coil then you should go ahead and change the plug since it's right there ($6). Do the weep hole mod and clear out the contaminants then install an oil-catch-can (separator) on both sides. This should eliminate the buildup in the first, and also prevent the recirculation back into the intake that corrupts the valves in the end (which they don't have a fix/process for). Keep the oil changed every 3-5k max despite the BS oil schedule published (this was to hack the EPA numbers not help maintenance in any way. The oil schedule on this 3.5 is wrong by any engineering standard being a direct injection turbo (ask an expert). Use Top-Tier detergent gasoline (high octane recommended b/c turbo ) since this will help valve buildup in the direct injection system and keep the injectors clean. The next thing to change is upgrade the oil pump to a high volume and do the timing update while that part of the engine is exposed. Then you can enjoy a kickass motor for HUNDREDS-Of-THOUSANDS of miles.
What brand of high volume pump and oil catch-can did you use. Thanks for the write-up.
@@Rottingboards video on oil pump upgrade. He's got a catch can video as well not sure his link on that part still works: th-cam.com/video/NJ2PYXTVjkI/w-d-xo.html
Catch can system is the answer, not drilling holes.
The other problem that is happening is intake valve coking, C.C. System helps to prevent coking, into intake Valves coking cause loss of power when it gets bad enough.
Ford is re-engineering the GDI system to eliminate the problem.
Gas Direct Injection.
Correct!! The 2018 and above have worked to eliminate this problem thankfully. I just ordered two catch-can's, (one for each bank) and my 2016 4.5 Ecoboost has nearly 123,000 on it, so I'm sure I have far too much gunk in the system, so I'm looking forward at getting this gone. I know All the maintenance has been done at the same Ford dealership since new, so I plan on going out and get a print-out of all the service from the truck, so I have an idea of what, and when I should be doing specific maintenance on the truck. I'm hoping for longevity, or getting it as long as I can, as I plan on keeping this truck for a long time! Love how it runs, and the power output!
Btw thank you so much for being so thorough and showing us the results of the fix.
Happy to help!
I had the Check Engine light on for about 2 weeks since I got the code saying I had a misfire. I drilled the hole in the inter cooler drove it for 2 days hard to push all the junk out. And the light went off and it runs like a champ. I must say I also cleaned my Roush Air Filter as well. It was way over due so I'm sure that had something to do with it as well.
For me the problem went away when I installed a oil catch can, the K&N air filter system, Dual pipes, MSD coils and the SCT X4 programmer. More power and the take off is powerful.
No way!, msd is junk compared to ford coils, and k&n is also garbage sucking more oil and dirt in. AEM dryflow would be way smarter.
Hello Sir; thanks for the video. We have a 2015 -F150 3.5 Liter Eco Boost V6. When we pull a *3000 lb. trailer we get the Detonation or Preignition from this engine. It is best if you release the accelerator to stop engine damage if this happens. This is very stressful on a long journey when you want to get to your destination. I believe Ford is a super USA company, but it seems they are too lazy or cheap to offer a fix for this problem. I did learn to ONLY USE FORD MOTORCRAFT SPARK PLUGS AND COILS WHEN REPLACING PARTS TO FIX THIS PROBLEM. I even bought a engine analyzer to use after this knocking. By the way I never get any warning lights when this happens. I'll let you know what my analyzer says after I trouble shoot. Best of Luck. (The truck drives excellent and is very comfortable with good gas mileage.)
my 2011 f150 was doing the same, i put plugs drilled the hole ran it for 6 month, still the same, im going to replace the coils, hope they will work 112322 miles
It's not the coils my man. Coils are either working or they are not there is no in between. Check the resistence with a multimeter.
So what happened?
Love it. Thank you for posting this. I just picked up a 2015 with 58,000 miles. Has a little miss. Going to try this.
I just drilled my 2016 in the exact same spot, and got very little oil, although it was a black colour. Haven't started it yet, and since it's pouring rain, I'll just have to hope that I get more as I drive it. Thanks for the tip, and I think I'll leave mine open all the time.
I left mine open .Seem fine .
What choice is there but to leave it open. It's a drilled hole. What am I missing?
@@buixrule some peeps screw a non corrosive screw into the hole to close it just as a fail safe, then periodically remove screw just to drain, but it’s an unnecessary measure. Unless u park truck in the living room and don’t want random drip marks on their nice carpet, tile, etc..
I shoot intake cleaner through that little hole while the engine is running about 2000 RPM. That cleans the gum buildup off the valve stems. That bypasses the sensors in the intake system so the cleaner does not damage them
The same thing is happening to my 2013 ford and I will follow and do the same thing you did hopefully my vehicle will improve for the better thank you for making this video!
Do you have a catch-can, to keep this gunk out of your truck? Check out 'catch-can mods for the F150' as it's a well known fact that these trucks need one, as even the top mechanics are saying the same thing now.
Thanks for the video. It really looks like those intercooler's actually need removed and flushed out.
Try drilling a .128 hole or .164 only. I think you hit the oil cooling line in the inter cooler. Drill more in the corners. Good luck
What comes out is emulgated/mixed oil and water, moisture comes in through the airfilter and blends up with the engine vent. Nasty stuff you should keep out of your engine at any price, try an external breather canister...a little expensive but solve a LOT of problems Bro !
I've ordered two 'catch-cans' (one for each bank) to collect all this nasty crud. Saw a video of a fellow who did this to his F150 Ecoboost, and for the first while, he was filling the collection device 'full' of that nasty stuff! It apparently takes a while to get much of it out of there for those that don't have one, as it's had a lot of time to build up in there! It's important for all turboed vehicles to have a catch-can system, so the oil/gasses from the PVC don't continue to re-route it back into the manifold!
I drilled my weep hole in 2016. The lower valance is always covered in oil and crud because this thing spits so much crap out of it. If you're hesitant about this don't be.
Big question is why are you not running catch cans?
Great video and good info. One question, after drilling the weep hole and letting it drain a couple days. Did you put a plug/screw back in the hole or you just leave it open???
I left it open ,so the water could drain.
Exactly you’d be doing plugs again if you seal the hole
I’ve done this a year ago, and left it open, to expel any future moisture. No I’ll effects at all leaving it open!
Yea I'm gonna try this. I have a 2012 and I found there is a Technical Service Bulletin out there regarding misfiring. If your plug is showing carbon tracks then replace all of them and the coil boots. You could possibly bring it to a dealership since it's an official bulletin but I've heard a lot of them will argue and say it's not covered. The parts are cheap and easy to do yourself. For record I had a code for cylinder 2 misfire, replaced plug and coil pack and still had misfires.
I experienced the misfiring on my used 2011 3.5L that I had recently purchased, on a return trip from South Dakota. After struggling with it for a lot of miles I made it to Idaho. Took it to the local dealer and had them check it out, I hadn’t found all the videos on TH-cam about the DIY fixes. The dealer dealt with the plugs and associated hardware but they also reprogrammed the ECM module; I know the plugs and hardware helped but I think the reprogram did a lot to fix the misfiring I experienced.
I have 2011 F-150 3.5 eco with 122k miles doing the same thing. I changed the spark plugs and didn’t change. Drill the hole and just water came out. Going to drive it a couple days like you said and see what happen. How is your doing now?
If you installed the plugs prior to drilling the hole in the inter-cooler , the water may have already compromised the plugs.I would check the plugs again. That's one reason I waited to install the plugs . Check your coils to . I had one bad one . Good Luck !!
After drilled hole in ic, do you leave it hole or did you patch it after it drained?
also a better fix to prevent oil from getting into the intecooler in the first place is to add an aftermarket catch can which goes between the pcv breather and the intake pipe, it will catch all the oil droplets and only alow crank case air into the inlet tract.
The condensation is what caused your spark plugs to file out in the first place. So yea it was the root of the problem. If you would have changed the spark plugs first you would just filed out another set of plugs
Excately but the man did say he is no mechanic.
Thank you for the honest opinion. Much appreciated.
I will try this method. I have been having the stutter problem for weeks. I have cleaned out all the plastics going to and from the cooler and everywhere else. I avail. Next to is to see if one or two of my coils are bad.
The coils should still be good, check the gap on the plugs, both old and new. The gaps were horribly off on my new ones and grossly different on the originals. I very carefully adjusted them and I’ve had no issues for 30k mi now.
Adding a catch can will catch all before intercooler
I let mine go for a week and the sputter was gone. Now pulls full throttle runs with no more problems.
Problem is once the crud is sucked up into the intake it’s going foul plugs and cause problems. Catch can prevents the problem after you fix the problem
So if you have a catch can you don't need to drill the hole?
If it didn't have a catch can until about 100k miles then got one, then would it be best to drill one to drain whatever's in there already?
@ Cole Campbell. Correct. New vehicle + catch can = no problem. Catch can collects carbon blow by before it goes through intake.
Old vehicle + new catch can. Drill the hole to 7/16. No bigger. Plug after it’s drained with small screw.
Synthetic oil makes a big difference to. I have 85,000 miles and synthetic is the only oil I use. When I remove the screw ,only a drop or two comes out at start up.
Yea I only use synthetic as well. Been trying everything possible for longevity, but I just wasn't sure if i'd still need to do this too or not
@@colecampbell1906 - I've got nearly 123,000 miles on my 2016, and I've just ordered two catch-can's for my truck (one for each bank). This is the first I've heard of the 'drill a hole' possibility, but it's basically doing what a catch-can will do, and that's to collect the crud in the intercooler and tubes, that has come from the PCV valve, which directs this oil/moisture/fuel mix and puts it back into the manifold, so it will get re-burned. Thus, the catch-can, catches all this oil/moisture/fuel and puts it into the catch-can, and you dump it out as the can's fill up. Once installed, for the first while, you'll have to empty them pretty regularly, but once most of what's in their is captured, the frequency of needing to empty them is far less..down to perhaps once every oil change some say, albeit I'll probably check mine every couple of weeks after the majority of it has been collected.
@@colecampbell1906 - ALL turbo charged engines, should have a catch-can setup, as the PCV valve sends all this crud into the manifold to return, which then fouls the intake valves. Saves the engine for longevity! They really, aren't that expensive...albeit there are companies that have made up their own system, who want far too much for their system, but many many guys have added catch-can's from Ebay or Amazon, and they're doing the job just fine, for under $100.00. Check out F150's and catch-can's on TH-cam, as there are LOTS of video's on it.
I just fixed a customers truck recently by simply regaping the plugs back to factory spec, I told him he should replace the plugs this fall before winter, but this would get him by in the mean time. he had cylinder 3 misfire, but the truck would not flag a code until it was so bad that the ecu shut down coil pack number 3, which it turned back on after a few miles. any ways I regapped the plugs to .030 from being worn down to .048 and the miss was gone and the truck pulled like it was intended to with no more miss.
That is EXACTLY what mine was doing. Had the check engine light, change the coil #6, helped but still came back. Changed plugs, helped but came back, then coil #2 showed bad, changed it, helped but now I'm gonna drill this damn hole and see how it goes. I have a 2011 with 125,000
Do you plug the hole after drilling and drained? Or do you leave it open
leave it open .
I just bought a 2016 XLT with the 3.5 Ecoboost, and it runs perfect! I plan on adding a catch-can, but have some interest in this 'hole' as I'm sure there is crud in mine, as I have just under 123,000 on mine now. LOVE the truck, but do want some longevity, so I'll do what it takes to get it!
Did you fix it?
Did it work?
My truck started doing that a few kmiles ago will try this ,,my eco is at 315000kmiles already
If it’s been over 75000 miles since your last tune up , I would do that to , new coils and plugs. I did another video on that as wall, acceleration skip.
1/8" hole is rather large. I drilled a 1/16" hole in mine and it worked well.
1/16” works
Do you plug the hole after? Cause my 2012 has the same issue and I’d like to try this method
@@codyscott108 I didn't, been that way for years
Good stuff man! Thanks for following through
I just bought a 2014 F150 with the 3.5 ecoboost and it was only getting about 12 mpg the first so I decided to go to an less traveled county road and blow it out a bit and I floored it and it coughed and sputtered for a few seconds and the check engine light came on for about five seconds blinking away and then it stopped. The funny thing is that it went to 16 mpg after that which was good but it still does the coughing and sputtering if I floor it.
Did you fix it?
@@samuelyeet6006 I put new plugs in it, cleaned the mass air flow censors and changed the air filter and it now gets about 17 on the hwy but I don`t think the gear ratio is very good for gas mileage since the RPM`s are way up there at 75 mph.
@@webman1956 does it sputter when you get on it anymore?
@@samuelyeet6006 No, it shits and gets! I sure as hell don`t get why anyone would bitch about a 6 banger in a truck, at least not this Ecoboost, this damn thing has power out the ass with the only down side is that they really don`t get much better gas mileage than an 8 and I heard that the plugs foul kind of easy. Love the truck though and have owned Ford, Chevy and Ram with all having good and bad things about all of them. I think of all of the ones I`ve owned so far I like this Ford the best.
The weep hole will help clean your intercooler , but you have to plug the hole really good and tight with a threaded bolt and some Teflon tape because the boost pressure CAN NOT ESCAPE, otherwise will throw codes and lower your power. Best way would be to remove and clean the intercooler inside with some diesel, dry it and then put the weep hole with the bolt for future drainage, and in the same time install catch cans
Omg wow never would have thought that would have accumulated like that. Thanks
Great video, I have a 2018 2.7 eco boost, 12,100 miles, ( retired, do very little driving with this truck) in 5 years. Same problems, going to drill hole in inter cooler. Have all new plugs and coil packs. Will drill hole first. Very damp in upstate SC. Especially this year (2023). If this doesn't work I am going to shoot this varmint!
I know it’s 3 years later but did it help with the 2018?
would adding a catch can system do the same thing.??
The header mentions 2019, is that a 2019 with that many miles. I was wondering if the 2018 and 2019 and + models had the problem. If I drill mine, I will epoxy a barbed fitting into it and run a capped down tube for manual service at oil change time. That how some Honda motorcycles are fitted.
2019 is the year I released the video. There were a lot of older video on the same subject . Thanks for watching .
I have a 2014 2.0 ecoboost explorer it always has the underboost code. I thought it was the turbo waste gate rattle that causes this
Never had a “EcoBoost” until now on a 2020. I’ve been trying to be proactive from the beginning (trucks simply cost way to much to recycle). I’ve already put a oil catch can on but not sure if drilling the hole in the intercooler is also needed. Seems like the oil/condensation will still be in the cooler with it without a can? Maybe all this has been addressed by Ford now with the gas being added above & inside the cylinder? One have anything to do with the other?
This is only an issue on earlier Ecoboost F150s. They came out with a new CAC design that does not cause this issue anymore. I have a 2016 with 72k miles and have never had this issue. It's only on 2011-2014's I believe. I"ve got to work on my father in laws truck this weekend to get ride of the same issues Wild Life Adventure is having. His is a 2011.
@@BenBurnham85 I have a 2018 F150 Ecoboost 2.7L that misfires when towing. Had it in shop 3 times, before 30000 miles. Argghhhh
Ford has updated/modified the EcoBoost very much sence the first gen. I know they also added something that opens and closes on the intercooler on the news ones that is supposed to eliminate the condensation issue. As well as the GDI issue, like you said
Hindsight is 20/20. I wish all this great information about ecoboots was available in 2011 when I bought.
Maybe an active. Short drive on these vehicle's seem to create more Condensation. Which accumulates in the oil. And makes it not perform optimally.
I change plugs before 35k and oil evey 4k. Just drilled my intercooler and only a little blow by drained out.
Did FORD fix this problem after this year??
Any change in your mpg? I just bought a 2014 F-150 3.5L with 105,000 miles. It runs great but I only get around 15-16 mpg’s. I was hoping for 18-20 mpg’s as I mostly put on highway miles. I’m not sure if the plugs have ever been changed as I just bought it. I’ve read on forums that they should be changed much more frequently than Ford’s recommendation of every 100,000 miles. Did you notice any change in mpg’s? Did you measure the gaps on the old plugs? What gap did the new plugs have?
Chech gear ratio on rear end maybe 4/11 gears. Good luck
My 2015 F150 3.5 eb needs plugs changed by 35k miles. First set went 35k miles and power / gas mileage went down. Original plugs were worn to .045 gap. I gap new ones at 30 and now replace them at 30k miles. I've also had one coil go bad at 40k miles
@@JasonW. - I've heard that some mechanics are saying to change them out at 50K to be on the safe side, haven't heard any as low as 30K. Yes, .045 is far too much. .030 is correct.
@@dalewatkins9889 I'm on the 4th set of plugs now at 85k miles. They go in at .030 and come put at .045 gap. Using Ford Motorcraft plugs for first 3 sets, but had to buy Autolite for last set about 5k miles ago.
This motor eats plugs. I tow, but about 10% of the time, and less than 5k lbs.
Was that a 1/8 drill bit or 1/16. Thanks for posting. I am having the same issue..
It was an 1/8" drill bit.
Reid King doesn’t matter. Drill it. I used 3/16
My 2013 3.5 would cut out and check engine light would flash when I floored it. I changed plugs and coil packs and its like new. I still want to drill the hole though.
Hello Im having the same problem now I just change spark plugs and coils… my question is…. Did you leave the hole open for ever ??? Thanks by the way
Yes I did
This doesn’t cause a boost leak?
Just because the cylinder threw a code does necessarily mean its a coil,i had a bad plug,changed them out and it runs excellent,always start with plugs,if that dont do it then yes change the coil
Awesome video!!! Thank you for posting it!! Helped me bunches!!!
How do you do this on a explorer. Everything looks different =(
Where did you get that outro music? I watch an RV channel and he has the same music, i thought he made it lol
How much miles did your truck had at that time?
I am having this same issue with my 2013 ecoboost. I have changed my plugs but didn’t solve my issue. When I lived in Wyoming and Kansas I never had any issue but now since o moved to Florida it has been doing it more frequently so I guess I should drill a hole in my inter piper to fix this issue? I am curious because one comment said you accidentally drilled into the oil line that circulates through your intercooler?
I have a 2012 eco f150. Completely took mine out. Got a 1/3 solo cup full of junk out of it. Drilled the tiny hole. No issues what so ever. There was no oil line in it. Hope this helps.
I did not hit the oil line .
@@wildlifeadventures-13 - First I've ever heard of an oil line being inside an intercooler? Perhaps there's one on the outside, but not inside!
Florida more humid so it’ll be worse and only confirms this is the problem (condensation build up) . You need a catch can
Its not a radiator with the trans cooler line running thru. What Oil line? lol I see his mind was running, but lets think - if I hit an oil line, wouldnt the pressure be great - like squirting, and wouldnt it be black oil? this is CLEARLY contaminates, not oil alone.
Have you tried to clean your mass air sensors. You can buy a special spray cleaner called mass air cleaner. At Walmart or your local autoparts store.
Great video... thank you
Awesome coverage.
What size drill bit you use?
Thanks sir
Welcome
Thank you
Did you notice if your gas mileage got worse after drilling a weep hole? Seems like mine did..
Yes ,I did notice that .
Because you now have a HUGE boost leak!
@@yongato I used to argue with this but I can tell you for sure my truck stays under boost all the time, even at cruising speeds, I plugged mine back up, got 2mpg's back, now I just drain it when I change the oil
Jody Colquitt what did you use to plug the hole. Having the same issue as everyone else but hesitant to drill the hole.
@@rsnayd I just put a screw in it, I take it out during oil changes and start it for a few minutes, and even brake boost it to build boost
Very good info.
Glad you liked it
78,000 miles u need to change the plugs, I change mine every 70,000 and haven’t had any issues
So what fixed the problem? Just switching out the plugs? How about the coil pack?
I have the same thing going on 2018 3.5 with 102K miles. P0306 error code (#6 cylinder misfire) came on yesterday when I hit the throttle on freeway ramp. I love my truck. I just wish I could put a Toyota tundra engine inside of it.
What year is your truck?
2014
You just need an oil catch can and also new spark plugs. Most of the time that’s all it is. No need to drill holes.
replacing the plugs will work for awhile but you need to address the problem at hand. the problem is that the CAC is filling with water due to condensation in the engine and sucking it into the engine fouling the plugs. this weep hole hack does fix the problem. it allows the condensation (water) to drain out of the CAC so it cant be sucked into the engine at high boost. i did this to my 2012 in 2014 and never had a misfire again. it is now 2021 and i still own the truck.
Seems like that would create a boost leak
It does but supposedly it’s too small to notice
Small one sure
Did u ever fix the skipping issue if so how ?
Drilled hole , ran the truck for three days till all the water was out . changed spark plugs . Truck has been good since then
All you had to do was watch the whole video he explained everything!
What is the solution
Have a 17' expedition with the 3.5. I have the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs back in the spring which helped for a few days, but same symptoms in just a matter of a week or two. When I replaced the spark plugs the front two cylinders ( 1 and 4 ) had a lot more black on them as if it was burning oil. I'm reluctant to start drilling into the intercooler though it seems like it would help. Does anyone have any other videos with actual footage of driving with the weep hole drilled and no other parts replaced?
I was having this issue on mine years ago. I replaced all the plugs and coils. Than I drilled the intercooler. It worked. However it does drain a lot and will leave little oil spots everywhere you go. If you want to do a mechanically proper solution get a catch can. Also Ford did do a manufacturer update for the fuel/air mixture and they changed the intercooler to one that doesn't perform as well to reduce the condensation build up. I did a lot of research so that's how I know of all these items.
As I said tho all I did was coils, plugs and drilled a hole and have not had an issue since.
@@buzza2077 Thanks for the info. It's funny, since I made the comment, the expedition has not had any problems. A few times a week, i will floor it and do some quick starts. Since I've done that, it has not sputtered on start up like it used to, and it has not gone into lag mode from missing. I still have not drilled the hole, but I am keeping that option open when further problems arise.
@@nromes you know what you may have had is a valve that is carbonized and you running it hard cleaned it off. I know these engines have that problem too since they are direct injection. Nice engines but man they are touchy lol. I have 200k on mine now and my issues were when it was right at 75k so it's been good since than.
@@buzza2077 mine has just shy 150k miles. But problems arise within last 10k. It's our home and business vehicle. Miles add up quick for us. I love the power of the 3.5, but it is a pain to work on. I will be changing trans fluid and filter in the near future.
@@nromes yeah I did all my fluids twice now. I actually think it is easier than the triton 5.4 tho. I have a new issue that has popped up which I guess is rare but is expensive and that the cam sequencers are loosing oil pressure. That cause oil pressure to drain out of system which cause the tensioners to back off. So when you start the truck it rattles bad for a few seconds til the oil pressure rises again. It's about a $4k repair. My next truck is going to be an oldie. Old square body. Something I can tear apart and rebuild myself. I can't bring myself to pay almost $100k for a truck 😆
Now, go put a Stainless Steel Sheet metal screw in that hole like i did & take it out whn you change yr oil if you think you need to... my 2014 eccoboost was shuttering etc. engine light came on, i plugged my tester in it said cylinder 3 misfire, i cleared the code, went out punched it again, said cylinder said cylinder 4 , then 1, i not only replaced the plugs & made sure the gap was at .032, but also put new coils on cylinders 1, 3, & 4, pretty sure i did'nt need to but did any way, runs like the day i bought it new, also those iridium plugs in these eccoboost engines, yr manual says they are 100,000 mile plugs, change them at no more than 60,000 miles, it will save you the headache of thinking yr transmission is slipping 👍 , For Sure ....
Super smart that intercooler is a pressurized system. When you put holes in it you lose boost pressure. Nice
Work lol.
Yet everyone with this problem is doing it and is reporting it working most of the time to fix this problem
@@samuelyeet6006 I think catch can is the better but more expensive fix
Yeah I think catch can is the better but more expensive fix
See I have a catch can and cleaned it but I still got shit coming out of it
Its like an airplane window. The airplane windows have holes in them, but its not large enough to cause an issue within the operating spectrum. That little hole might alter boost pressure by 1/100th of an pound, but its not enough to affect anything noticeable by the engine. this isnt like a vacuum leak where the slightest leak can foul the whole procedure.
Nice video but if your check engine light is flashing that means it's a misfire.
The 3.5 EcoBoost engine is notorious for faulty or dirty throttle bodies and the high pressure fuel pump. Any loss of power hesitation code p0087 anything like that check those two things first.
Thanks for the info
Remember if you have this happening to your ecoboost, clean your mass airflow sensor and throttle body.
Sensors. Lol. There are three of them bastards on the Ecoboost
How do you do this? I’m not very mechanically inclined but very DIY
@@ericromero4 mass air sensor is sensitive and can be damaged easily. also caution with throttle body as the butterfly can injure your fingers. fordmakeyouloco has a good video on this. good luck Eric
Buddy the hole did solve your problem you needed plugs yes but that junk was spraying on your plugs for a long time may have ruined them. So those plugs were bad so drilling the hole didn’t fix it all the way the plugs were already fouled. But now new plugs won’t get that junk on them! So the hole will keep that junk from spraying on the new plugs
The same thing happened to my Ford I am surprised that for money factor has done nothing about it🤑🤑🤑
Fords better idea lol.👍
How are you going to fix your boost leak you created lol WTF MAN ! 🤯🤣😂🤔🧐
Drilling a 1/8 or 1/16 weep hole is not enough of a "boost leak" to even be noticeable.
I haven't seen any differences. The only difference I have seen is a drop in Fuel mileage .Down 2 miles per gal from what it was .
I tell you how to fix that tiny 1/8th(or 16th) hole; get you a little mini threaded ball valve & thread it in there. Use em for plumbing all the time...they got all sorts of sizes. Thread it in and you're good to go. That's how you fix that boost leak 🙄
Or you could have just bought a Garret intercooler that has the proper drain design and you get the best of everything !!!!
@@juli7970 now THAT is a real fix!