Supercharged E39 M5 AFR Gauge is Broken | Fixing The AEM Wideband o2 Sensor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 ก.ย. 2024
- This AEM Wideband o2 Sensor is stuck on 14.8 and will not show any other reading. It is not working and has been broken since I got the car so I want to see if it can be fixed or if I need to buy a new gauge.
After some troubleshooting we find the problem and get it back up and running!
Cheap replacement LSU 4.9 EUGO Sensor can be purchased here:
on eBay: ebay.to/2Bxf5G5
or Amazon: amzn.to/39rvkkG
Or Genuine Bosch sensor here:
on eBay: ebay.to/2OTrmYC
or Amazon: amzn.to/30LfYUg
If you want to add the AEM wideband gauge you can get it here:
on eBay: ebay.to/3f3vr6Y
or Amazon: amzn.to/30M85h7
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Congrats on the 14k!!!
Thank You! 🎉🎉
Great to see the M5 coming along,
I think that v8 rev should be your signature ringtone - then ring andrew at 3am ! 😆
😂😂😂
🤣
Hey bro, mine just started doing the turning on and going all the way to having no numbers just 3 lines and all the way to the red, I was wondering if those sensors you have on the link goes for any car if so I have a Camaro
That's a win.
I know you touched on it, but those sensors look like they are installed horizontally, but maybe it looks different in person. It is recommended to install them at a minimum angle of 10 degrees from the horizontal so gravity can prevent moisture buildup. Obviously that is a custom exhaust, but moving the bungs should improve the life of the sensors.
See: www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data%20Sheet_69034379_Lambda_Sensor_LSU_4.9.pdf
"As far as possible install the sensor vertically (wire upwards)."
and
"Protect the sensor against condensation water."
I have seen documentation elsewhere that recommends not installing the sensor straight up and down because of heat soak in confined spaces, but Bosch doesn't seem to mention this.
See: wbo2.com/lsu/LsuInstal.pdf
Please ! Never start the engine with the sensor heated up like that. That is how most WB sensors are killed, these days. The actual element, in the WB sensor is CERAMIC. And, the WB controller heats it up to 1200F ( glowing orange hot ). When you hit the hot element with cold startup exhaust, and condensation, it is like throwing cold water on a hot windscreen. Cracks form. The sensor loses accuracy, gets flaky, and dies. If you already see the " - - - " , the sensor is already fully heated. This is, likely, what killed your original sensor.
Thanks for the info. So are you saying I should never turn the ignition on before starting the car? Or if I need to check any devices disconnect the o2 sensor while doing so?
@@ZeroTo60Tube Mostly, yes. If the WB is already warmed up, turn the ignition off, and, give it 30 seconds or so to get down to a safe temperature, before starting. A lesser issue is that the sensors age quickly ( relatively ) when left operating in the open atmosphere. i.e. with the " - - -" display. This, mostly, affects accuracy, rather than functional damage. So, ideally, don't power the WB for long periods with the engine not running. But, this effect is minuscule, compared to the thermal shock damages done by starting the engine with the sensor pre-heated.
Shouldn't you do calibration of new sensor before putting it into exhaust? :)
No I thought the LSU 4.9 didn't need free air calibration only the old 4.2 did?
@@ZeroTo60Tube I actually don't know, that. Just checked: "The 4.9 LSU sensors feature the same fuel compatibility as the 4.2 LSU and NEVER require free-air calibration when used with AEM’s 30-4110 Wideband UEGO AFR Gauge."
I can see a lot of crimped wires that’s not a good sign.
I'm thinking about redoing the gauges anyway now
Hey wait.....didn’t you crash that car in the last video???😜🤪
Very similar car but that was my E39 540. This is the E39 m5 I purchased crashed. (Yes I have a problem) haha
@@ZeroTo60Tube Crashed cars are the best cars to buy, I've just purchased a manual 335 coupe from salvage auction!