AEM BOOST & AFR GAUGE INSTALL!! (How To)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
- I really went in depth on this one. Like I said in the video a lot of guys on youtube don't include the signal + & - wires in there install, so I made sure I showed you guys exactly how to do it! even though I was wrong the first time......
Stay tuned for the first start video :)
Hope this video helped you guys out! 🤙🏼
Follow my instagram for more current updates on the builds!
/ daniel_kellert
Parts Used in this video
AEM X-Series Wideband AFR Gauge
www.amazon.ca/...
AEM X Series Boost Gauge
www.amazon.ca/...
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Music
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#Subaru #AEMGauge #500HP
Dude I was watching this channel like it had half a mill subscribers and I just realized you’re only at 2k!! Thanks for the walk throughs!
Thanks Jacob! Glad it helped 🤙🏼 haha maybe one day! That’s the dream 🙃
These tutorials are so good man. Came for the radium FPR, stayed for the quality.
Glad they help! Good luck with the build 🙌🏼
hey man i subbed because you explain everything in really understandable detail and make the content genuinley enjoyable to watch, i hope your channel continues to grow, more generalized content like this reaches more people
Appreciate that my man 🙌🏼 definitely got lots more content coming!
There's another rubber bung on my 2004 forester right below brake master cylinder that was easier for me. Great video.
Just binge watching and commenting
this thing is a serious work of art and is coming together so well man,keep up the good work!
Appreciate it man 🤙🏼
One thing to state. If you’re running a catted downpipe, you should use the bung on your DP before the cat. It is far more accurate and you don’t have to mess around with your stock sensor or the other wires. That’s why people just use the black and red wires.
Correct. If you have a catted dp you need to run the wideband sensor pre cat. My ETS kit is completely catless so it doesn’t matter. I tapped into the other wires strictly for data logging purposes. Then my access port can use the rear O2 sensor input to the factory ecu & display the wideband reading.
I'm installing this on an 04 wrx, it has a catless DP can I still put it on the bung on top?
@@chrisguzman7926 yes. I was just stating it’s more accurate to run it before the cat.
@@AblationMusic cool thanks, appreciate it 🙏
Gonna try and hook my boost and air/fuel gauges Tomorrow
You got this bud 🤙🏼
I have a question tho if you just disconnected the oem wire and then run a wire only to the gauge, how does your ecu get the info to manage your fuel ratio?
Did u get any answer on this?
excellent video keep going with your channel, your explanation was perfect it will help me a lot when I install my gauges aing thanks
That’s what I like to hear! Glad it helped 🙌🏼 Good luck with the install 👍🏼
Great stuff brother! Next level shit. Could you do in in-depth how to on tuning the car, getting maps and all the shit that’s needed to get the car to bang gears😂
😂😂 I won’t be tuning the car myself but I will make a video on the dyno day & maybe I can get my tuner in the video to explain some stuff 👍🏼
Hi bro
Does every1 weld the wideband sensor bung 18 inches (45cm) after turbo??
I still got my 2 oem O2 sensor, so would i need to tap the 2 wires to the signal positive and negative ? The gauge is mainly for reeding purpose at this rate !
Thanl you !
If you are still using the factory AFR & downstream O2 sensor then you don’t have to tap into the rear O2 wires. That is strictly for data logging purposes & so your ecu can display the wideband reading on the access port. 👍🏼 Hope that helps
It's a good thing I now know what I'm doing... lol.
I Might just get my local tuning mechanic to install my Wideband/Boost gauge
You can do it! Just take your time & you will figure it out :)
@@DanielKellert where did you find the wiring diagram?
@@allmighty736 Program I have at work called ALLDATA.
@@DanielKellert ALLDATA will not work in my region of the world and it you have to pay for access to it....
@@allmighty736 That’s why I explained the wiring in this video so you don’t have to look it up :)
New sub here. Loving this build series as it's essentially the same thing I'm going to do when I get my GR. Been looking at gauges for the past couple of days and was wondering, is the boost gauge on the cobb AP is as accurate as a physical gauge? If so, does the speed density conversion affect the readings?
Appreciate that 🙌🏼 good luck with your build :). The gauge in your AP gives a reading based off MAP differential. When your engine is under boost, it is essentially your turbo pushing air into your intake, which is also adding pressure. Your MAP sensor’s purpose is to read pressure & vacuum in the manifold. So yes the Cobb AP is pretty accurate as it is using a factory installed sensor. For the speed density question, no speed density does not affect the readings at all. All you are doing with speed density is getting rid of your MAF sensor & adding an IAT sensor post turbo & pre manifold. From factory your IAT sensor is actually inside of the MAF sensor. Speed density converts your ECU to using your MAP & IAT readings to determine the amount of air & temp of air coming into the engine. This is great for turbo vehicles because as your turbo pushes more air into the manifold, it also creates more pressure, which your MAP sensor is able to read & send the signal back to your ecu. That was very detailed but I hope it answered your questions! 😅
Appreciate that 🙌🏼 good luck with your build :). The gauge in your AP gives a reading based off MAP differential. When your engine is under boost, it is essentially your turbo pushing air into your intake, which is also adding pressure. Your MAP sensor’s purpose is to read pressure & vacuum in the manifold. So yes the Cobb AP is pretty accurate as it is using a factory installed sensor. For the speed density question, no speed density does not affect the readings at all. All you are doing with speed density is getting rid of your MAF sensor & adding an IAT sensor post turbo & pre manifold. From factory your IAT sensor is actually inside of the MAF sensor. Speed density converts your ECU to using your MAP & IAT readings to determine the amount of air & temp of air coming into the engine. This is great for turbo vehicles because as your turbo pushes more air into the manifold, it also creates more pressure, which your MAP sensor is able to read & send the signal back to your ecu. That was very detailed but I hope it answered your questions! 😅
@@DanielKellert Makes perfect sense, thanks for clearing that, now I can rest easy. Subaru has unfortunately canceled the next generation of ICE STI so that gives me more incentive to go all out on the build.
You made it seem like this was a cake walk for you
It was actually my first time ever installing gauges 😅
Hey bud awesome video. Were you able to correct the boost issue, gauge not zeroing when the engine is off? I’m having the same issue.
Thanks
Yes I fixed that issue. In this video I ran the boost gauge straight off the compressor housing of the turbo. I moved the gauge to read off a vacuum port directly to the manifold. That way it will read vacuum & boost.
Hey Dan just wondering if I still need to use all the wires/tap into stock 02 sensor if my ecu is completely stock?
You only need to tap into the stock O2 sensor wires if you want your factory ecu to recieve the rear O2 sensor readings for data logging/tuning purposes. 👍🏼
Any more civic vids on the way?
Once the sti build is finished maybe I’ll get some more Civic vids 🤙🏼 I kinda wanna boost that thing & send it to the moon ngl 🤷🏻
Earned a sub from me 👍 this is dope
🙌🏼🙌🏼
would this work for WRX too??
Yup! Although the signal wires may be a different colour for the wideband.
lol wat?😅