To the one person who disliked this .. idk who you are, idk where you are , but i promise I will not find you , I will not search for you , but I hope you have a good day , nothing but love from the miata community, love you miata dad
Regarding Lambda vs. AFR, specifically with E85: This topic can be very confusing. With gasoline, the stochiometric ratio (AFR where all fuel is burned) is 14.7:1. With E85, that ratio is 9.8:1. (E85 requires much more fuel to be injected due to its lower energy content). Even though the AFR's are different, regardless of the fuel this is known as 1.00 Lambda. So when switching between different fuels, why does my wideband not read 9.8 while cruising on the highway with E85? It's because most of them use Lambda, then convert that into "Gasoline AFR". Most of us are so used to seeing and tuning based on gasoline AFR, and not with Lambda or ACTUAL AFR. So when I do a full throttle pull on E85, even though my wideband reads "11.5:1" the actual AFR is 7.7:1. Confusing enough? So what the wideband does it it reads Lambda, which in this case is 0.78, and multiplies it by 14.7, to give you the "Gasoline AFR." This way you don't have to memorize different AFR targets for each fuel. This is especially helpful when running Flex Fuel, because if you have a 1/2 tank of 91 octane, and a 1/2 tank of E85, what is your stochiometric ratio? 12.2? You don't need to know. The answer is 1.00 Lambda, the gauge will still spit out 14.7:1 regardless of your fuel blend. Regarding cars that come with OEM wideband sensors: I have pretty limited knowledge on this topic, I know that via OBDII readers on some cars you can see the AFR's with the OEM wideband sensors, however there is mixed information about the accuracy and range of the sensors. Based on the fact that is is pretty rare to hear of people using their OEM sensors to read out AFR's or even tune with them, I'm guessing they are more restricted than using the current Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband sensor (the standard for modern wideband systems). Info about specific widebands - The original Innovate MTX-L has the 2 signal wires, one for each mode. The AEM Uego has a single signal wire, with a switch on the back to change modes. The AEM X-Series does not support narrowband and cannot be paired with a stock ECU as a replacement sensor. You CAN still run it on its own, just don't hook it up to the ECU. The Innovate MTX-L Plus has a single wire and might not support narrowband either, maybe someone in the comments can confirm.
@@ericschatz4943 Hi I've only just posted that and then seen your post, " correct " brown wire has been deleted, but the output is 0v = 7.35 AFR to 5v = 22.39 AFR.
@@BulliKid If you have a wideband that converts lambda to "gas numbers" which most do, then you still would target mid 11's in boost on the gauge, even though that's not technically the AFR. Also - E15 should use pretty close to gas numbers id imagine, since many states standard and premium gasoline is around "E10". My local gasoline is about 8.5% ethanol on average
@@robertgiordano555 From someone FAAAAR more knowledgeable than either of us - For the most stable and accurate readings, the ECU and O2 sensor should share the same ground. This is why all of the OBD-II cars run all of their analog sensor grounds back into the ECU itself, whereas the earlier cars grounded them to whatever point was most convenient. What matters most for an analog sensor is not that it has the best possible ground, but that it see the same ground potential as the ECU.
This is always good practice. Using a different ground path than the ecu can effect sensor readings between guage readings and actually logged values due to a variance in ground offset from different locations. However, this can be adjusted to a degree by changing the voltage slope.
@@hoodlum206 I don't remember what the product is called but there is a product that helped with this, it would calibrate ground offsets between sensor and the output wire and tell you what to set the voltage curve in tuner studio.
Greg, this is without doubt THE BEST wideband/AFR video I have ever seen! Concise, informative, full of your real-world experience, and funny too. Sharing your knowledge in this way is a real art - also your dedication in getting such great content out to your viewers is amazing - thank you. How can anyone give this video a thumbs down ¦8¬( they must be MAD!!
Just started my boosted miata up for the very first time 30 minutes ago Greg! No issues, (FM FTW) Add one for the turbo miata gang!!!! Better late than never..
Rm electronics sell an aft kit for £155 (cheaper than any others I have used) that have narrowband emulation. They also do an upgraded kit with Bluetooth to connect to your phone or electronic dash etc
Thanks for another great video. One thing you might want to cover down the road is, why a naturally aspirated modified engine would need a wide band. Thanks Again Greg! Glad you are doing more videos again!!!
I had been using my wideband without any proper knowledge for like 2 years before I actually learned about the pre-heat thermal shock thing a few weeks back. Guess I was lucky I didn't kill my sensor :p Great vid as always.
Hi Greg. Thanks for the info and clearing it up. I actually emailed you regarding my stock ecu that has no O2 sensor at all. I checked through the whole harness and under the car (exhaust etc.) Mine is a BA Astina 97 1.8L. Spoke to a few guys and they reckon that my cars AFR is being controlled by the MAF sensor...and it runs crap. I'll have to get a aftermarket Ecu and wideband later. Much Appreciated
the rule for WBO2 sensor placement is 18" from the turbo outlet. for N/A headers in the collector where you're sure all the flow from the tubes will meet. good video Greg💪
@@alantran6901 and you never had the WBO2 overheat or fail? do you have a heart sink on it? 18"away is good enough. its not any more accurate at 4" from the turbo
@@PANTYEATR1 I have a aem heat sink bung. Also, the closer it is the better. Not so much for accuracy but for reduction in signal delays from actually load points.
Next video talk about having 2 map sensors, other for open air. To fine tune while driving on mountain roads. I have 2. Crisp AFR's driving around the world. Set spare port OFF from megasquirt to be able to make it work. You know what I mean when you try to figure it out. Also talk about using CAN wires instead of analog for lambda controller. Because that is way more reliable and faster. cheers.
Hi Greg, thanks for all your work on the Miata car passion channel, so just started to do a few mods on the engine mk1, 1.6 Eunos JDM. i in the UK.. just purchased a Innovate MTX-L PLUS. just let you know and other people this wide band AFR Gauge can not be use with the "stock ECU" as there is no extra wire on the back of the gauge !!! only red, black, yellow and white dimmer. But as i have two oxygen bungs already in the exhaust its up and running, Next is to fit stand alone ECU
excelent video, very informative, and the timing could not have been better. i am putting a turbo on my honda and have been beating my head against the wall at this point for almost a week trying to figure out if i need 1 or 2 sensors with my s300. but this video explains all i need thank you very much
I found a 4.9 lsu is on 2015 ecoboost f150’s. Pretty cheap from advance auto and has a 1 year warranty.. thats the one i use in my miata with mspnp2.. the wire is short and the plug has a barb that holds it in place on the car chassis 👍
Yes, I do feel more educated. So you dropped a hint that the wide band sensor probe itself is heated? So the gauge itself has to be powered by a circuit which travels to the ignition key, other wise damage and dead batteries. Another thought. Aircraft engines have control over mixture and we gauge that by exhaust gas temperature. Aircraft can do this because of the constant rpm settings at cruise. Do the stand alone ECU’s utilize an exhaust gas temperature probe to help with mixture or AFR calculations? There is so much cerebral pinging to this......the road goes on forever and the party never ends.
Great video! I have a separate switch for delaying wideband heating. It completely turns off the controller/gauge, I usually turn it on aftter 20-30 seconds of idling. Oh yes, and extra switches on the dashboard add horsepower as well.
TheCarPassionChannel I suppose it’s nice to have the functionality of being able to have a reading asap if your doing cold start tuning tho? (By using a switch I mean).
My only issue I have had is with the innovates AFR gauge is that I cannot find a good 12V that isn't my radio that I cannot use as the MSSS1 system would be fried. (Know this from the 93LE community)
Thanks for this information! I bought my car with a vvt swap (1992 na6 chassis) and noticed my AFR has gotten way rich over the past year. When I first got the car it was close to target numbers. The car was tuned with aftermarket exhaust system (rb header, fm cat back exhaust. ) i changed to a test pipe and shaped the warm air intake to a joefis CAI. Afr was still normalish but last winter started seeing cold start at 9:1 and warmed up idle is 10:1-11:1... need to figure out what happened, running on a adaptronic E420C, we tried messing with injector timing to smooth it out but now the transit throttle is all messed up. So I am at the original tune, I suspect maybe the oxygen sensor is going bad which is resulting in the super rich conditions.
I’m running an aem wideband in my downpipe which is a begi downpipe that is basically a slip on style two piece downpipe I know for sure when I start the car I have a slight leak at the slip on joint which is now making me wonder if it’s effecting my wideband big time on cold starts Car still starts fine but if I blip throttle super cold it stumbles a bit within first 30 seconds and I’m assuming this is why Thanks!!!
TheCarPassionChannel thanks greg! Yeah I also hate this downpipe, hoping to go with a kraken setup soon. I’ll tinker with the tuning, I always have trouble with tuning the enrichment... only happens when temps are colder here... and within 30 seconds after warm up it’s fine! Thanks again dude
You don't need a wideband if you going to get your car tuned by a tuner since they will use their own. Unless you want to spend extra money on AEM gauge and sensor. If you're constantly road tuning and tweaking on road on your own then you do otherwise tuner will tune it set it and your AFRs should stay the same unless something goes badly. :)
So here’s my question I just installed a cold air intake on my car and I plan to do some exhaust work on it too. Should I get a standalone ecu with the wide band and then tune or just get the wide band and tune with my stock ecu. (Just for context I don’t want my car to be a race car or anything like that I just want it to run the most optimal it can with the all the mods)
It's not possible to do any real tuning in a stock ECU (if you're talking about a Miata) so you'd need a standalone if you want to adjust anything. If you're speaking of a different type of car with a flashable/tunable ECU then I'd recommend keeping it in the car as it will always run better and more consistent for day to day use vs. a full standalone
I know you posted this a while ago, but hopefully you’ll see it, I’m looking at going wideband on a stock ecu, planning on going stand-alone down the road, with the innovate on a 2001 Miata, I’m wondering about how much I can actually trust the narrowband emulation, and also I heard it could potentially throw a o2 heater code
It's best to have an extra bung welded into the exhaust, and use that for the wideband. Then you can monitor AFR, but you don't need to hook it up to your ECU at all. In my experience the narrowband emulation was not as good as using the stock sensor.
I have shirts coming in 9/17, I haven't announced them yet but they are available for pre-order right now at thecarpassionchannel.com. I did a test run already and they came out nice!
Hey Greg, I drive 13 Mini Cooper JCW, these cars come with wideband from the Factory. Can I hook up a AFR gauge to the Stock Sensor in order to monitor my AFR ? Thanks!
I have pretty limited knowledge on this topic, I know that via OBDII readers on some cars you can see the AFR's with the OEM wideband sensors, however there is mixed information about the accuracy and range of the sensors. Based on the fact that is is pretty rare to hear of people using their OEM sensors to read out AFR's or even tune with them, I'm guessing they are more restricted than using the current Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband sensor (the standard for modern wideband systems).
TheCarPassionChannel Yes, I can use OBD II reader, but I thought using the Actual gauge, would be better. Anyway, Thanks for your answer! Love your videos tho! 🥰 Watching your Channel since the beginning! 🙏🏼🙏🏼👍🏻
@@Brian_2JZ If the sensor is the correct type, yes, but I'm not sure how you could go about splitting the signal to something that will read the AFR but not control the sensor, and also to the ECU for mixture corrections.
Where does the wideband sensor go please? I have a cat on the car, which is bolted onto the manifold, before the downpipe and there are 2 O2 sensors, 1 pre-cat, 1 after cat. Does the wideband go next to the pre cat, or next to the after cat?
No. It's simply a way to measure the air to fuel ratio on an engine. The benefit comes when you start modifying the engine and the amount of air it's consuming increases, so you can be sure to get the correct amount of fuel going into it.
Hey buddy with the 99 Cali Miata headers the catalytic converter is literally on it and the O2 bong is right before it so could you put the wideband on that
As a speeduino owner, I can say: maybe 😂 it depends where you bought it. I bought mine directly from the man himself in Australia in March, and it didn’t come with a wideband controller. I run a standalone AEM UEGO. However, I have seen some eBay resellers who use their own boards and integrate a wideband controller into their system. BOFI racing on youtube installed a speeduino that had an integrated wideband controller, as part of a whole NA6 kit with a TPS, ecu, and wideband all in one. The sensor just plugged straight into the speeduino. That could be a weird European thing because people over there are used to the ME221 and such, but idk. Also, TLDR I would personally recommend a used megasquirt from FB marketplace or craigslist or eBay over a speeduino. It will save you money in the long run. Trust me. If someone told me that a year ago I would have saved a lot of money
@@elementaljosh what eventually happened that made you conclude MS was the way to go? (Just put in a speedy EFI and x series) going through tuning...issues.
Wouldn't the MSPNP2 jumper J7 (Sensor ground select) option between signal ground and chasis ground influence on that widebands "slight off calibration" reading? ..not to mention other sensor grounds connected to the chasis being effected as well by that. If so what was someone's experience or at least hear of that option being used? 94-95
If i was looking to install a wideband on a car that still has the cat would sensor placements matter sould it got before or after the cat and which sensor is it supposed to replace he o ly talks about 1 sensor when most cars have 2 is one sensor not needed anymore?
Forgive me for being a little slow. So if my factory pcm can’t read the wide band data then why would some tuners want a wide band installed before they’re willing work on my car? How do they get the data? I log and tune through HP tuners.
I have a question, i have a miata with a mega squirt and want to install a wideband. is it also possible to plug the wideband in the stock plug, and let ms know where it is comming from?
Hi, can someone advice me, please? I have a MTX wideband, stock ECU, brown wire narrow emulator wired on the signal wire on my 3 wires stock lambda harness, stock lambda sensor removed for the MTX one. The fact is the +12v heater and the ground for the stock lambda aren't conneced, my car is on a open loop and running so rich -11.3 at idle. I read somewhere that i must plug the stock sensor for resistance. True or false? Any advice for me? Thanks.
My Miata's AFR sensor works very well but I have no idea how to tune I have been trying for a while I can get the car to idle and I can give it throttle and it responds well but the idle is 10 to 1 when it should be about 14.7 to 1 I have changed a lot of setting and I can sometimes get it it idle at about 11 to 1 if anybody can help me out with some tuneing please let me know 😊
It can be done different ways, having one in each bank is better than having a single sensor reading both banks, but having 8 sensors, one for each header is even better than that, haha. I used to run a single sensor in a V6, on what was commonly known as "the lean side" due to intake manifold design. That way I knew if the lean side was safe, the other bank would be as well. TL;DR it's best to have a sensor in each bank
![เปิดบ้าน พี่ตูน Bodyslam หลังใหม่คนแรก ที่ภูเก็ต l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/flFwcmyDQSk/mqdefault.jpg)
Something about that first intro really just resonated with me so well, love it! 👊
😅 Thank you Jason! Love your channel
Thanks Jason
Thanks Jason!
lol it felt familiar
it goes with the whiteboard...
Looks like it’s time for you and Engineering Explained to make a video together...I mean, he does have a Miata now.
So now Craig/Graigh/Grek can add another name to the list: Jason!
To the one person who disliked this .. idk who you are, idk where you are , but i promise I will not find you , I will not search for you , but I hope you have a good day , nothing but love from the miata community, love you miata dad
must be a mustang owner
Regarding Lambda vs. AFR, specifically with E85: This topic can be very confusing. With gasoline, the stochiometric ratio (AFR where all fuel is burned) is 14.7:1. With E85, that ratio is 9.8:1. (E85 requires much more fuel to be injected due to its lower energy content). Even though the AFR's are different, regardless of the fuel this is known as 1.00 Lambda. So when switching between different fuels, why does my wideband not read 9.8 while cruising on the highway with E85? It's because most of them use Lambda, then convert that into "Gasoline AFR". Most of us are so used to seeing and tuning based on gasoline AFR, and not with Lambda or ACTUAL AFR. So when I do a full throttle pull on E85, even though my wideband reads "11.5:1" the actual AFR is 7.7:1. Confusing enough? So what the wideband does it it reads Lambda, which in this case is 0.78, and multiplies it by 14.7, to give you the "Gasoline AFR." This way you don't have to memorize different AFR targets for each fuel. This is especially helpful when running Flex Fuel, because if you have a 1/2 tank of 91 octane, and a 1/2 tank of E85, what is your stochiometric ratio? 12.2? You don't need to know. The answer is 1.00 Lambda, the gauge will still spit out 14.7:1 regardless of your fuel blend.
Regarding cars that come with OEM wideband sensors: I have pretty limited knowledge on this topic, I know that via OBDII readers on some cars you can see the AFR's with the OEM wideband sensors, however there is mixed information about the accuracy and range of the sensors. Based on the fact that is is pretty rare to hear of people using their OEM sensors to read out AFR's or even tune with them, I'm guessing they are more restricted than using the current Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband sensor (the standard for modern wideband systems).
Info about specific widebands - The original Innovate MTX-L has the 2 signal wires, one for each mode. The AEM Uego has a single signal wire, with a switch on the back to change modes. The AEM X-Series does not support narrowband and cannot be paired with a stock ECU as a replacement sensor. You CAN still run it on its own, just don't hook it up to the ECU. The Innovate MTX-L Plus has a single wire and might not support narrowband either, maybe someone in the comments can confirm.
in the Vag world they had oem WB (4.2) since 2002 or so, and always closed loop. yes you can and will tune based on that reading in the log.
The MTX-L Plus does not support narrow band it only outputs a 5v signal.
@@ericschatz4943 Hi I've only just posted that and then seen your post, " correct " brown wire has been deleted, but the output is 0v = 7.35 AFR to 5v = 22.39 AFR.
Is that e85 data still relevant at this point? Running a e15 blend and not sure what to target.
@@BulliKid If you have a wideband that converts lambda to "gas numbers" which most do, then you still would target mid 11's in boost on the gauge, even though that's not technically the AFR. Also - E15 should use pretty close to gas numbers id imagine, since many states standard and premium gasoline is around "E10". My local gasoline is about 8.5% ethanol on average
Dont forget to run the wideband ground to the same place as the ECU gets its ground
False
@@robertgiordano555 From someone FAAAAR more knowledgeable than either of us - For the most stable and accurate readings, the ECU and O2 sensor should share the same ground. This is why all of the OBD-II cars run all of their analog sensor grounds back into the ECU itself, whereas the earlier cars grounded them to whatever point was most convenient. What matters most for an analog sensor is not that it has the best possible ground, but that it see the same ground potential as the ECU.
This is always good practice. Using a different ground path than the ecu can effect sensor readings between guage readings and actually logged values due to a variance in ground offset from different locations.
However, this can be adjusted to a degree by changing the voltage slope.
@@hoodlum206 I don't remember what the product is called but there is a product that helped with this, it would calibrate ground offsets between sensor and the output wire and tell you what to set the voltage curve in tuner studio.
@@awesomecooly123 hey thats ptretty neat, does it go in line between the ecu ground and any ground? 🤔
Greg, this is without doubt THE BEST wideband/AFR video I have ever seen! Concise, informative, full of your real-world experience, and funny too. Sharing your knowledge in this way is a real art - also your dedication in getting such great content out to your viewers is amazing - thank you.
How can anyone give this video a thumbs down ¦8¬( they must be MAD!!
I'm glad I watched this video to realize every bit of this information relayed is on the owners manual 99% of widebands come with.
Sounds like you didn't need to watch it?
"... so much exhaust and flames and street cred shooting out of this pipe... " EL OH EL
So happy with the more frequent uploads
Ironically I just installed my AEM UEGO Saturday. Good info on the lambda on E85 vs Gasoline, I didn't know about that.
Perfect timing was litterly looking at widebands today!
Pro tip- unplug the sensor and your gauge should read 14.7. Great tip for checking tuning software vs gauge for ground problems
Just started my boosted miata up for the very first time 30 minutes ago Greg! No issues, (FM FTW) Add one for the turbo miata gang!!!! Better late than never..
I get smarter everyday just by watching your educational videos.
I know this is an old video, but I just stumbled upon it and found it to be the best wideband explanation that I have watched.
You teach this boomer something every time I watch. Thank you!!
School made me late to a CarPassion vid >:(
I just installed a wideband like a week ago a didn't know too much about it, you have taught me everything about miata's.
6:32 "solamente habla español" 😂😂😂😂😂
This is very possibly the most informational video I’ve watched.
That intro gave me big Mighty Car Mods vibes, love it!
Good vid! Note the AEM X-series does not support narrowband mode
Rm electronics sell an aft kit for £155 (cheaper than any others I have used) that have narrowband emulation. They also do an upgraded kit with Bluetooth to connect to your phone or electronic dash etc
Awesome video on the topic, thanks for taking the time to make it.
Thanks! This knowledge will be very applicable to my Miata that will totally only be used for off-road, racetrack use!
Thanks for another great video. One thing you might want to cover down the road is, why a naturally aspirated modified engine would need a wide band. Thanks Again Greg! Glad you are doing more videos again!!!
Thanks For the video, I just finished installing an Innovate wideband on my 95' NA, right before you uploaded this.
11:17 and 12:16 comedy gold 😂
I had been using my wideband without any proper knowledge for like 2 years before I actually learned about the pre-heat thermal shock thing a few weeks back. Guess I was lucky I didn't kill my sensor :p Great vid as always.
Can confirm, I killed my 4.9 with thermal shock in less than a month 🤦🏻♂️
Hi Greg. Thanks for the info and clearing it up. I actually emailed you regarding my stock ecu that has no O2 sensor at all. I checked through the whole harness and under the car (exhaust etc.) Mine is a BA Astina 97 1.8L. Spoke to a few guys and they reckon that my cars AFR is being controlled by the MAF sensor...and it runs crap. I'll have to get a aftermarket Ecu and wideband later. Much Appreciated
the rule for WBO2 sensor placement is 18" from the turbo outlet. for N/A headers in the collector where you're sure all the flow from the tubes will meet. good video Greg💪
Comment should be pinned Greg :)
I run mine 4'" away from the turbo.
@@alantran6901 and you never had the WBO2 overheat or fail? do you have a heart sink on it? 18"away is good enough. its not any more accurate at 4" from the turbo
@@PANTYEATR1 I have a aem heat sink bung. Also, the closer it is the better. Not so much for accuracy but for reduction in signal delays from actually load points.
@@alantran6901 i want to see a laboratory test done with the WBO2 different distances ranging from 4" to 18" and see the results
Speaking of ratios, Greg's like/dislike ratio of his videos is 1000/1.
Next video talk about having 2 map sensors, other for open air. To fine tune while driving on mountain roads. I have 2. Crisp AFR's driving around the world. Set spare port OFF from megasquirt to be able to make it work. You know what I mean when you try to figure it out. Also talk about using CAN wires instead of analog for lambda controller. Because that is way more reliable and faster. cheers.
Hi Greg, thanks for all your work on the Miata car passion channel, so just started to do a few mods on the engine mk1, 1.6 Eunos JDM. i in the UK.. just purchased a Innovate MTX-L PLUS. just let you know and other people this wide band AFR Gauge can not be use with the "stock ECU" as there is no extra wire on the back of the gauge !!! only red, black, yellow and white dimmer. But as i have two oxygen bungs already in the exhaust its up and running, Next is to fit stand alone ECU
Yeah the newer versions do not have wideband emulation unfortunately. But once you go to a standalone you don't need it anyways 🙂
big brain😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂best teacher on youtube hands down
Damn Greg I love your vids! Thank you for explaining this!
excelent video, very informative, and the timing could not have been better. i am putting a turbo on my honda and have been beating my head against the wall at this point for almost a week trying to figure out if i need 1 or 2 sensors with my s300. but this video explains all i need thank you very much
Ah! I see. So get a wide band first THEN we go to stand alone 🤔 😁 thanks Miata Dad. I’ve needed some good motivation
I found a 4.9 lsu is on 2015 ecoboost f150’s. Pretty cheap from advance auto and has a 1 year warranty.. thats the one i use in my miata with mspnp2.. the wire is short and the plug has a barb that holds it in place on the car chassis 👍
Thanks, that answered the questions I had about wideband.
Instant like after the intro😂😂
Brother is on point!!!!! Thank you man..
Yes, I do feel more educated. So you dropped a hint that the wide band sensor probe itself is heated? So the gauge itself has to be powered by a circuit which travels to the ignition key, other wise damage and dead batteries. Another thought. Aircraft engines have control over mixture and we gauge that by exhaust gas temperature. Aircraft can do this because of the constant rpm settings at cruise. Do the stand alone ECU’s utilize an exhaust gas temperature probe to help with mixture or AFR calculations? There is so much cerebral pinging to this......the road goes on forever and the party never ends.
Great video! I have a separate switch for delaying wideband heating. It completely turns off the controller/gauge, I usually turn it on aftter 20-30 seconds of idling.
Oh yes, and extra switches on the dashboard add horsepower as well.
Sounds like a good idea. Silly question but how did you go about this? What wires did you splice to switch?
Same setup I run currently with good luck. I should put it on an automatic timer with an ECU controlled relay.... too lazy
TheCarPassionChannel I suppose it’s nice to have the functionality of being able to have a reading asap if your doing cold start tuning tho? (By using a switch I mean).
@@TheCarPassionChannel Same here. And also, my car has a starting sequence to be followed :D
@@bradleybatt1401 The switch simply cuts the power to the controller. No power, no heat.
My only issue I have had is with the innovates AFR gauge is that I cannot find a good 12V that isn't my radio that I cannot use as the MSSS1 system would be fried. (Know this from the 93LE community)
Great. Super simple explanation
Great video thanks 👍
Is there a hoodie coming with your logo? Would be pretty cool and pretty much a must buy if it would be good quality!
Thank you! A great explanation!
Great tech. Thanks for sharing.
Great vid. Thank you :)
Awesome video, very informative!
Dam I was hoping to get lambda vs AFR explained
Great explanation.
Super informative! Keep it up Miata daddy!
Thanks for this information! I bought my car with a vvt swap (1992 na6 chassis) and noticed my AFR has gotten way rich over the past year. When I first got the car it was close to target numbers. The car was tuned with aftermarket exhaust system (rb header, fm cat back exhaust. ) i changed to a test pipe and shaped the warm air intake to a joefis CAI. Afr was still normalish but last winter started seeing cold start at 9:1 and warmed up idle is 10:1-11:1... need to figure out what happened, running on a adaptronic E420C, we tried messing with injector timing to smooth it out but now the transit throttle is all messed up. So I am at the original tune, I suspect maybe the oxygen sensor is going bad which is resulting in the super rich conditions.
I did learn so stuffs cheers mate
Nice explanation!
thank you
perfect thank u
Do some tuning vids with me221 for us brits!
Stay tuned next week 😉
Thank you miata dad, very cool!
"exhaust and flames and street cred" 😂😂
I’m running an aem wideband in my downpipe which is a begi downpipe that is basically a slip on style two piece downpipe
I know for sure when I start the car I have a slight leak at the slip on joint which is now making me wonder if it’s effecting my wideband big time on cold starts
Car still starts fine but if I blip throttle super cold it stumbles a bit within first 30 seconds and I’m assuming this is why
Thanks!!!
It sounds more like a tuning issue, possibly the acceleration enrichment or after start enrichment. I had that same downpipe and didn't enjoy it :)
TheCarPassionChannel thanks greg! Yeah I also hate this downpipe, hoping to go with a kraken setup soon.
I’ll tinker with the tuning, I always have trouble with tuning the enrichment... only happens when temps are colder here... and within 30 seconds after warm up it’s fine!
Thanks again dude
You don't need a wideband if you going to get your car tuned by a tuner since they will use their own. Unless you want to spend extra money on AEM gauge and sensor. If you're constantly road tuning and tweaking on road on your own then you do otherwise tuner will tune it set it and your AFRs should stay the same unless something goes badly. :)
So here’s my question I just installed a cold air intake on my car and I plan to do some exhaust work on it too. Should I get a standalone ecu with the wide band and then tune or just get the wide band and tune with my stock ecu. (Just for context I don’t want my car to be a race car or anything like that I just want it to run the most optimal it can with the all the mods)
It's not possible to do any real tuning in a stock ECU (if you're talking about a Miata) so you'd need a standalone if you want to adjust anything. If you're speaking of a different type of car with a flashable/tunable ECU then I'd recommend keeping it in the car as it will always run better and more consistent for day to day use vs. a full standalone
The intro got me fkt up lmfao!
I know you posted this a while ago, but hopefully you’ll see it, I’m looking at going wideband on a stock ecu, planning on going stand-alone down the road, with the innovate on a 2001 Miata, I’m wondering about how much I can actually trust the narrowband emulation, and also I heard it could potentially throw a o2 heater code
It's best to have an extra bung welded into the exhaust, and use that for the wideband. Then you can monitor AFR, but you don't need to hook it up to your ECU at all. In my experience the narrowband emulation was not as good as using the stock sensor.
@@TheCarPassionChannel I kinda figured, thanks for replying
the mattman clip 💀
great info as usual... Hey Greg... do you have any CarPassion Channel swag for sale?
I have shirts coming in 9/17, I haven't announced them yet but they are available for pre-order right now at thecarpassionchannel.com. I did a test run already and they came out nice!
Hey Greg,
I drive 13 Mini Cooper JCW, these cars come with wideband from the Factory.
Can I hook up a AFR gauge to the Stock Sensor in order to monitor my AFR ?
Thanks!
I have pretty limited knowledge on this topic, I know that via OBDII readers on some cars you can see the AFR's with the OEM wideband sensors, however there is mixed information about the accuracy and range of the sensors. Based on the fact that is is pretty rare to hear of people using their OEM sensors to read out AFR's or even tune with them, I'm guessing they are more restricted than using the current Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband sensor (the standard for modern wideband systems).
TheCarPassionChannel
Yes, I can use OBD II reader, but I thought using the Actual gauge, would be better.
Anyway,
Thanks for your answer!
Love your videos tho! 🥰
Watching your Channel since the beginning! 🙏🏼🙏🏼👍🏻
@@Brian_2JZ If the sensor is the correct type, yes, but I'm not sure how you could go about splitting the signal to something that will read the AFR but not control the sensor, and also to the ECU for mixture corrections.
Where does the wideband sensor go please? I have a cat on the car, which is bolted onto the manifold, before the downpipe and there are 2 O2 sensors, 1 pre-cat, 1 after cat. Does the wideband go next to the pre cat, or next to the after cat?
Bad ass video!!!
11:35 everyone looking like Spongebob when he tells Gary he was on TV last night
I am attempting to find this clip and am ashamed I don't know it by heart
@@TheCarPassionChannel It's when Spongebob was on the Krusty Krab commercial because his hand was in the shot, and he was so excited to show Gary lmao
Very good explanation. I am new to the MX5 so my question is does a wide band offer any performance upgrade on a stock motor ?
No. It's simply a way to measure the air to fuel ratio on an engine. The benefit comes when you start modifying the engine and the amount of air it's consuming increases, so you can be sure to get the correct amount of fuel going into it.
If you’re catless, can you install an AFR gauge where your downstream O2 sensor is located?
Yes, although it might not stay hot enough.
Hey buddy with the 99 Cali Miata headers the catalytic converter is literally on it and the O2 bong is right before it so could you put the wideband on that
Do you know if a speeduino from DIY EFI needs a controller?
As a speeduino owner, I can say: maybe 😂 it depends where you bought it. I bought mine directly from the man himself in Australia in March, and it didn’t come with a wideband controller. I run a standalone AEM UEGO. However, I have seen some eBay resellers who use their own boards and integrate a wideband controller into their system. BOFI racing on youtube installed a speeduino that had an integrated wideband controller, as part of a whole NA6 kit with a TPS, ecu, and wideband all in one. The sensor just plugged straight into the speeduino. That could be a weird European thing because people over there are used to the ME221 and such, but idk.
Also, TLDR I would personally recommend a used megasquirt from FB marketplace or craigslist or eBay over a speeduino. It will save you money in the long run. Trust me. If someone told me that a year ago I would have saved a lot of money
@@elementaljosh what eventually happened that made you conclude MS was the way to go? (Just put in a speedy EFI and x series) going through tuning...issues.
Wouldn't the MSPNP2 jumper J7 (Sensor ground select) option between signal ground and chasis ground influence on that widebands "slight off calibration" reading? ..not to mention other sensor grounds connected to the chasis being effected as well by that.
If so what was someone's experience or at least hear of that option being used? 94-95
Can based wideband > traditional wideband gauge
If i was looking to install a wideband on a car that still has the cat would sensor placements matter sould it got before or after the cat and which sensor is it supposed to replace he o ly talks about 1 sensor when most cars have 2 is one sensor not needed anymore?
Oh yess, now you are speak-a my language 😄
Forgive me for being a little slow. So if my factory pcm can’t read the wide band data then why would some tuners want a wide band installed before they’re willing work on my car? How do they get the data? I log and tune through HP tuners.
The factory PCM might not be able to read it, but you can still install a wideband to monitor AFR for tuning purposes
Tacos & french fries 😂
Exxxellent
Stock ecu bois thank you greag.
"Not everyone wants to pay $40 having someone weld a bung in there exhaust"
Taken out of context this could sound bad.
Peace Brother
I have a car with a aem wideband it was starting and idling I pushed the button on the wideband car died and want crank any suggestions?
I have a question, i have a miata with a mega squirt and want to install a wideband. is it also possible to plug the wideband in the stock plug, and let ms know where it is comming from?
Yes!! But how are you running a MS already without a wide band?
@@darrylyoes414 no, im installing it together with my turbo
Common dudes, click LIKE button. Gregory haw spent a lot of time - to make this video, and You can't click one button?
Hi, can someone advice me, please? I have a MTX wideband, stock ECU, brown wire narrow emulator wired on the signal wire on my 3 wires stock lambda harness, stock lambda sensor removed for the MTX one. The fact is the +12v heater and the ground for the stock lambda aren't conneced, my car is on a open loop and running so rich -11.3 at idle. I read somewhere that i must plug the stock sensor for resistance. True or false? Any advice for me? Thanks.
My Miata's AFR sensor works very well but I have no idea how to tune I have been trying for a while I can get the car to idle and I can give it throttle and it responds well but the idle is 10 to 1 when it should be about 14.7 to 1 I have changed a lot of setting and I can sometimes get it it idle at about 11 to 1 if anybody can help me out with some tuneing please let me know 😊
What if you have a V8 do you need two, one for each side ?
It can be done different ways, having one in each bank is better than having a single sensor reading both banks, but having 8 sensors, one for each header is even better than that, haha. I used to run a single sensor in a V6, on what was commonly known as "the lean side" due to intake manifold design. That way I knew if the lean side was safe, the other bank would be as well. TL;DR it's best to have a sensor in each bank
My WB says max street cred at full tilt ....
Miata Papi
Hello 😊👌
can you just run another bung behind the stock sensor? can you still get readings and all that jazz
Yes. It's better to do it that way actually, then the ECU can continue getting readings from the OEM sensor
@@TheCarPassionChannel thank you my friend