AEM Electronics 30-0300 X-Series AFR Gauge: (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated) amzn.to/30MoGmA My COMPLETE Build spreadsheet for my turbo Miata: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1utxt6RxZKm9tagEljE45dF8TdDBuiJMvdeBqbGWcQg0/edit?usp=sharing Here's the next video in my turbo series, injector upgrade! th-cam.com/video/7y_uyeqLQyI/w-d-xo.html If you missed it, here's the first start on my SpeedyEFI ECU! th-cam.com/video/buo1uarVvV4/w-d-xo.html
Really appreciate your wealth of info in these videos, man. I learned a ton and got my car up and running on speedyefi thanks to you. I’ve been reading around forums and looking through the manual for my aem - it appears it’s actually the Brown wire that needs to be wired to the ecu ground and the main gauge ground can just go to a regular ground.
Hey Cash, for your AEM wideband install you only routed your positive analog wire(white wire) to the stock O2 harness and left the negative analog wire (brown wire) to be wrapped in heat shrink. Don’t you need to wire that negative analog as well for an accurate reading of the O2 sensor to the ECU?
Hey! You’ve got a good eye. At first I didn’t properly ground that wire. If you don’t you’ll get improper readings. I put the disclaimer in here at 4:29 that explains that you need to ground it. Good luck!
I grounded mine to the engine block at one of the factory ground locations. The best place to ground it is at the ECU ground to make sure signal is consistent with what the ECU is seeing
@@CashedOutCars The SpeedyEfi doesn’t need to be grounded though right? From what I saw in your other video you just plug it in and hook up a vacuum line right? No grounding of the ECU required
Nice install. But, PLEASE, never start the engine when the sensor is already hot. The CERAMIC element in the sensor "warms up" to about 1200F ( glowing orange ). And, hitting it with a blast of (relatively ) cold startup exhaust is like throwing ice water on a hot windshield. And, the effect is the same. Cracks that grow, over time. They cause air leaks, that ruin accuracy. Then the sensor starts flaking out. Eventually, the cracks hit something critical; and, the sensor is done ( blowing your budget ) :( If you se " - - - - " or an AFR reading, the sensor is already fully heated.
Now that’s something I didn’t consider. Since the gauge has the loading bar I figured it needed to be heated before startup to ensure it reads correct and thus idles correct, since idle is still dependent of the O2 reading. Thanks for the tip!
@@CashedOutCars Nobody but me ( and the datasheet for the Bosch sensor ) tells you this. In OEM appllications, the ECU does not start heating the sensor until the engine is running. That's , largely, why OEM wideband sensors live longer than aftermarket installations of the same sensor. Startup idle is, usually, open loop, until the o2 sensor is ready.
Yeah that’s certainly something that isn’t talked about or widely known, but it certainly makes sense. I may make a video on it as a PSA to help people prevent early failures. Thanks!
@@CashedOutCars I wish somebody would. PM me if you need any info. You would THINK the WB manufacturers would be shouting this from the rooftops. I'd say that a huge percentage of what complaints people have about these WB's are premature sensor death.
I really wish he would go more in depth about what na spark tables he used and exactly what he had to do because the speedy efi is difficult to just get your car to run
Agree. The stock tune in the efi is conservative and rich. Also, the displacement and injector settings are wrong. I put one in this weekend and it was quite rough. I’ve got a wide band coming to actually tune the car.
A bit rich and conservative on the spark is safe, what’s why the base maps come like that. A base map is really designed to be dialed in and not ran forever. You really need a wideband to make the most of the ECU and it sounds like you’re on the right track!
Hi i have a question im about to install a speedy efi standalone and i want to connect it to the aem wideband just like u did on ur vid. If i understood right i need to cut the stock o2 cable and wire in the white from the wideband but i looked the stock o2 it has a white blue and black wire im really scared to cut it xD i could not rlly understand in ur vid how you did that. Could u help me out a bit 😄
Okay so your saying with that ecu it is literally plug and play at first? The first video you posted, I wouldn’t have to do all the downloading on the computer right?
It is plug and play, but you need softwares to properly use a standalone ECU since they don’t tune themselves or automatically choose which other features to use (launch control, boost cut, etc). For ECUs PNP means it’ll plug right into the factory harness without you making a custom harness, but you will need to set it up on your computer. Let me know if you have any questions!
hello, i have a question. The last start up you did before ending the video i heard the car crank and then stop turning and then turn on. I have that same issue with my miata what did you do in order to fix that start up? Thanks!
Hey! I haven’t changed much tune wise for cranking and starting. What I did find was that giving the car a bit of throttle (just a tiny bit) while cranking helped my car start. Also, my battery has a tendency to die so I always keep it charged up
hey my wideband doesn't show any readings on my laptop when I write to controller. It only shows 9.7 when i chose aem wideband and doesn't go up and down.
Hey Cash, I have got my red wire using my cigarette lighter for 12v and grounded my black wire to the chasis. I still have to splice in my white 5v signal output but I am a little confused, do I have to also ground my brown wire aswell along with the black ground wire? So I have my red 12v/black ground/white 5v output to my stock o2 wire and I ground my brown wire to the chasis or engine also?
I just got all my stuff in. Set up the ecu, ordered the same afr, can you show where you have it hooked to the ecu? Also can you be a bit more specific with the cutting the wire part? I want to get my stuff set up but I don't wanna cut and mess it up.
My gauge is reading about 16.8 at idle, when driving it varies from 12 to 23 and I can’t get tunerstudios afr gauge to read the same. Any ideas? I put the correct voltage to afr readings in tuner studio.
Update: it ended up being a bad connection whenever I wired in the sensor. However, my AFR is still ridiculously lean. If anyone has a good NA afr table they could share that would be wonderful.
@@CashedOutCars thanks man, I’ve used auto tune on tunerstudios for a couple drives now and it’s improving majorly. I have my target AFR set at 14.7 and I’m still currently NA while I get used to tuning
Hey just a question the X-Series gauge isn't in the drop down window how did you get your gauge to sync with tunerstudio what was your Point 1 Volts & AFR and Point 2 Volts & AFR
Installed my 30-0300 but it reads 18.80 in Tunner studio. Reads around 14.7 on the guage. I've been trouble shooting for days and can't get this figured out.
Yes I chopped the factory o2 wire and spliced this in, depending on what ECU you’re running you can setup a custom input for it but on mine I wanted to use the stock one
You can revert the tune by starting a new project with the specific firmware you want to run, then load the old base tune using the open tune option. Make sure the O2 sensor is grounded properly otherwise the readings won’t be right and the car won’t run! Good luck
Nevermind The NA has the single wire 02. I tap the white into the plug i cut off the old narrow band sensor. That just leaves me with one question. Where do i ground brown??
![[UNCUT]“ฅนตื่นธรรม”ปะทะ“หมอปลา-ปู่มหามุนี-อั๋นโอกิ”สะเทือนกระทรวงเวทมนตร์ Iคนดังนั่งเคลียร์I10 ตค.67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/peMD_SAkwNc/mqdefault.jpg)
AEM Electronics 30-0300 X-Series AFR Gauge: (Affiliate links for which I may be compensated) amzn.to/30MoGmA
My COMPLETE Build spreadsheet for my turbo Miata: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1utxt6RxZKm9tagEljE45dF8TdDBuiJMvdeBqbGWcQg0/edit?usp=sharing
Here's the next video in my turbo series, injector upgrade! th-cam.com/video/7y_uyeqLQyI/w-d-xo.html
If you missed it, here's the first start on my SpeedyEFI ECU! th-cam.com/video/buo1uarVvV4/w-d-xo.html
Really appreciate your wealth of info in these videos, man. I learned a ton and got my car up and running on speedyefi thanks to you. I’ve been reading around forums and looking through the manual for my aem - it appears it’s actually the Brown wire that needs to be wired to the ecu ground and the main gauge ground can just go to a regular ground.
Do you have any advice to tuning my startup? I have to crank and give it gas for quite a while for it to start up, especially when cold. Thank you!
Dude your videos are top notch
This video literally saved my ass
Hey Cash, for your AEM wideband install you only routed your positive analog wire(white wire) to the stock O2 harness and left the negative analog wire (brown wire) to be wrapped in heat shrink. Don’t you need to wire that negative analog as well for an accurate reading of the O2 sensor to the ECU?
Hey! You’ve got a good eye. At first I didn’t properly ground that wire. If you don’t you’ll get improper readings. I put the disclaimer in here at 4:29 that explains that you need to ground it. Good luck!
@@CashedOutCars Thanks! I figured that’s what you meant, but where exactly did you ground it?
I grounded mine to the engine block at one of the factory ground locations. The best place to ground it is at the ECU ground to make sure signal is consistent with what the ECU is seeing
@@CashedOutCars The SpeedyEfi doesn’t need to be grounded though right? From what I saw in your other video you just plug it in and hook up a vacuum line right? No grounding of the ECU required
Correct, the PNP harness has a ground built in, the wideband O2 just needs to be grounded to the location that the ground goes
Nice install. But, PLEASE, never start the engine when the sensor is already hot. The CERAMIC element in the sensor "warms up" to about 1200F ( glowing orange ). And, hitting it with a blast of (relatively ) cold startup exhaust is like throwing ice water on a hot windshield. And, the effect is the same. Cracks that grow, over time. They cause air leaks, that ruin accuracy. Then the sensor starts flaking out. Eventually, the cracks hit something critical; and, the sensor is done ( blowing your budget ) :( If you se " - - - - " or an AFR reading, the sensor is already fully heated.
Now that’s something I didn’t consider. Since the gauge has the loading bar I figured it needed to be heated before startup to ensure it reads correct and thus idles correct, since idle is still dependent of the O2 reading. Thanks for the tip!
@@CashedOutCars Nobody but me ( and the datasheet for the Bosch sensor ) tells you this. In OEM appllications, the ECU does not start heating the sensor until the engine is running. That's , largely, why OEM wideband sensors live longer than aftermarket installations of the same sensor. Startup idle is, usually, open loop, until the o2 sensor is ready.
Yeah that’s certainly something that isn’t talked about or widely known, but it certainly makes sense. I may make a video on it as a PSA to help people prevent early failures. Thanks!
@@CashedOutCars I wish somebody would. PM me if you need any info. You would THINK the WB manufacturers would be shouting this from the rooftops. I'd say that a huge percentage of what complaints people have about these WB's are premature sensor death.
They make more money selling replacements
I really wish he would go more in depth about what na spark tables he used and exactly what he had to do because the speedy efi is difficult to just get your car to run
Agree. The stock tune in the efi is conservative and rich. Also, the displacement and injector settings are wrong. I put one in this weekend and it was quite rough. I’ve got a wide band coming to actually tune the car.
A bit rich and conservative on the spark is safe, what’s why the base maps come like that. A base map is really designed to be dialed in and not ran forever. You really need a wideband to make the most of the ECU and it sounds like you’re on the right track!
Hi i have a question im about to install a speedy efi standalone and i want to connect it to the aem wideband just like u did on ur vid. If i understood right i need to cut the stock o2 cable and wire in the white from the wideband but i looked the stock o2 it has a white blue and black wire im really scared to cut it xD i could not rlly understand in ur vid how you did that. Could u help me out a bit 😄
Okay so your saying with that ecu it is literally plug and play at first? The first video you posted, I wouldn’t have to do all the downloading on the computer right?
It is plug and play, but you need softwares to properly use a standalone ECU since they don’t tune themselves or automatically choose which other features to use (launch control, boost cut, etc). For ECUs PNP means it’ll plug right into the factory harness without you making a custom harness, but you will need to set it up on your computer. Let me know if you have any questions!
@@CashedOutCars thank you!
hello, i have a question. The last start up you did before ending the video i heard the car crank and then stop turning and then turn on. I have that same issue with my miata what did you do in order to fix that start up? Thanks!
Hey! I haven’t changed much tune wise for cranking and starting. What I did find was that giving the car a bit of throttle (just a tiny bit) while cranking helped my car start. Also, my battery has a tendency to die so I always keep it charged up
How do I connect the wide band to the drift motion ECU standalone ? What color wire do I use and where does it go on the harness
hey my wideband doesn't show any readings on my laptop when I write to controller. It only shows 9.7 when i chose aem wideband and doesn't go up and down.
Hey Cash, I have got my red wire using my cigarette lighter for 12v and grounded my black wire to the chasis. I still have to splice in my white 5v signal output but I am a little confused, do I have to also ground my brown wire aswell along with the black ground wire? So I have my red 12v/black ground/white 5v output to my stock o2 wire and I ground my brown wire to the chasis or engine also?
Hi! Yes that is correct
I just got all my stuff in. Set up the ecu, ordered the same afr, can you show where you have it hooked to the ecu? Also can you be a bit more specific with the cutting the wire part? I want to get my stuff set up but I don't wanna cut and mess it up.
The stock O2 sensor wire goes to the ECU! That's what you'll cut and splice into. Good luck!
this may help with that part th-cam.com/video/7OKoDPeekvA/w-d-xo.html
Love your vids. Hate the robot talk
My gauge is reading about 16.8 at idle, when driving it varies from 12 to 23 and I can’t get tunerstudios afr gauge to read the same. Any ideas? I put the correct voltage to afr readings in tuner studio.
Update: it ended up being a bad connection whenever I wired in the sensor. However, my AFR is still ridiculously lean. If anyone has a good NA afr table they could share that would be wonderful.
I'm glad you got the connection sorted! Just add fuel where it's leaning out, or use autotune to get it closer!
@@CashedOutCars thanks man, I’ve used auto tune on tunerstudios for a couple drives now and it’s improving majorly. I have my target AFR set at 14.7 and I’m still currently NA while I get used to tuning
Hey just a question the X-Series gauge isn't in the drop down window how did you get your gauge to sync with tunerstudio
what was your Point 1 Volts & AFR and Point 2 Volts & AFR
There is a table that came with your kit that has those values! Put them in and you'll be in good shape
@@CashedOutCars tried that still off a bit. Does it be 100% accurate?
Installed my 30-0300 but it reads 18.80 in Tunner studio. Reads around 14.7 on the guage. I've been trouble shooting for days and can't get this figured out.
Is it stuck at 14.7 on the gauge? If so, it sounds like it's not reading correctly because you should see some fluctuation
What bout the white wire going into the O2 plug?
Where does the gauges wideband output go though? To the factory o2 sensor signal wire?
Yes I chopped the factory o2 wire and spliced this in, depending on what ECU you’re running you can setup a custom input for it but on mine I wanted to use the stock one
How come you didn't use the CANbus connection? Would be more accurate I hear.
To be honest I knew this was a tried and true method! I haven't had any problems so far
How do you revert tune? I was following your video and have not tested the ecu after updating the software.
You can revert the tune by starting a new project with the specific firmware you want to run, then load the old base tune using the open tune option. Make sure the O2 sensor is grounded properly otherwise the readings won’t be right and the car won’t run! Good luck
Did you connect the blue wire
So on my OEM downpipe can I put the New sensor in the OEM 02 sensor location? or will I need to add a bung to the downpipe further down?
If it's an OEM location that should be a fine spot to put this!
@@CashedOutCars awesome thanks!
Why dont you show the white wire tapped into the Original ECU wire? Im extremely confused
Nevermind The NA has the single wire 02. I tap the white into the plug i cut off the old narrow band sensor. That just leaves me with one question. Where do i ground brown??
@@xavierlipscomb2000 Brown wire just grounds to the chassis or engine. Anywhere with a good connection
How much did the upgraded tuner studio license cost?
I believe it was $60
Don't u have to have the o2 out of the bung at first then put it in so it has the outside temp or what not
Not with the x series, comes pre calibrated
What @Collin said, and it’d be looking for clean air with no fuel in it rather than a set temperature
Where the brown wire?
Can I use a crimp connector instead of soldering?
That’d work!
Stay away from the innovative mtx-l gauge it will fail within a year
Just talk normally, you’re killing me