This gut just works on ls engines regularly.... literally every chevy truck from 2000 forward has at least on broken manifold bolt, if not two. In my experience its generally the driver side rear bolt that is broken pretty much always.
we have a 2007 Tahoe with 185000 miles and there are 2 broken bolts on the passenger side. It goes away in a min or 2. I have the AFM turned off and I really believe doing this has saved the lifters as it runs WAY better than when it was activated.
Darned outstanding video.!!!! No drama. No click bait. No BS. Your presentation is spot-on perfect. It’s as if a normal person is giving the information. And, that’s rare on the tube. Thanks for the EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!
Thanks WWK! Saves me a headache 🤕 hassle. I have a 2013, Avalanche, I got a good scan tool and found a misfire on #6.. the spark plug wire was broken and someone put the wrong plug In. New wires, plug and coil helped.. I’m getting a P015D, P0446, P0451.. Evap and a Fuel Pressure Sensor error. How do I fix this problem? What parts do I need and do I need a replacement Evap line?
Lmao if it’s a patch truck and the truck makes a noise… god knows what the problem may be as those poor trucks go through so much. Used to work for a trucking company who built c-rings for fracking and we had a 13 duramax, too nice of a truck to be a patch truck. I cringed seeing the shit us guys put that poor truck through haha
Best mechanic I have ever watched on TH-cam. Very knowledgeable and straight forward. He actually fixes the problem from theory to diagnostic and then section and finally to the issue. My favorite channel now.
As soon as you started it I knew exactly what it was. The sound was the key here. That is no lifter. You can hear the exhaust escaping from around the manifold. Very distinct sound compared to a valve or lifter tick which is more metallic in nature as well as internal and sometimes muffled. This is external by nature. Either a broken stud/studs or cracked manifold itself. Like he said very common. Especially northern exposure vehicles due to snow and salt emulsion. Death by CORROSION. Truthfully I have repaired only a dozen or so lifter jobs on these due to the fact that they were caught early but if left alone you are looking at cam and lifter replacement. Once it starts it just progresses from there to total carnage of the cam. It’s good that this man is around for him. Good ear as well as knowledgeable about these engines. But most importantly EXPERIENCED. Just because they went to school to learn how it works doesn’t meant they are experts. Experience is gained by years of working on them. Not a text book. Good example of old school vs new school. Very informative video. 👍
@@MercuryRisingFast that would be a rod bearing. Pull the oil pan and windage tray to inspect the rods. Look for up and down movement. Side to side is normal to a curtain degree but up and down is not good. If you find up and down then you may have a spun bearing. Depending on how long it has been doing that will determine whether or not you need just bearings or a tear down to replace rods. Put the vehicle up on lift and have it running. Listen to where the knocking is concentrated at. If it is down low you have a bad rod bearing or more. If further up towards the top of the engine near the heads you have piston slap from bad rod pin sleeve. If the later then a tear down is required to replace pistons and rods. Full lower end rebuild. That’s worst case scenario. But if just a spun bearing and no visible damage to the journals then bearing will fix the issue. If there is damage then the crank needs to come out and replaced if the damage can’t be cleaned up and smoothed out to spec. If can be cleaned and smoothed out oversized bearings will work. Need to spec the journals after smoothing with a micrometer so you get the correct size. That’s it in a nut shell. Good luck.
@@MercuryRisingFast have to check that periodically. If there is an issue of low oil then yeah it can come up out of the blue. I don’t like to be the barer of bad news but from what I read in your post that is most likely the issue. But I could be wrong. It could be something else entirely but then you would need to have it checked out by the dealer or someone you can trust to give you the right information. Good luck on getting fixed. Actually worst case would be a new engine but nowadays engines can be had pretty cheep with low miles. Just getting it installed will cost you.
When i listen for noises on any engines i use 3/4 heater coolant hoses 3' long and listen through the hose by using rubber hose it drowns out all other noise and makes it real easy to find any noise. You nailed it.
I use a very long 3/8 drive extension. Wife looked at me like I was crazy the first time she seen me get it out to listen for a ticking sound. I never thought about using a coolant hose.
Respect from northern Ontario Canada. You saved my 6 ltr V8 HD I was going to change the knock sensor then if that did not work I was thinking it was lifters and I may need to also change the cam. I was going to try a knock set delete. Here the entire time it was the muffler guys not fixing the issue. I got under it and made the repair after watching. You saved my thousands. Your a rock 🌟. Respect from northern Ontario Canada
And once again. You have not failed me! A lot of the other mechanic guys could learn a lot by watching you. You get straight to the point. You don’t stretch the video. You give a brief history. Some comparisons and then your thought process. That information alone is priceless! Thank you again sir 🙏🫡🥃
Hey Kenny, I am grateful for your GM ticking noise videos/solutions wish I would have found you sooner. Had my 2014 Silverado 4.3 V6 towed to GM shop recently for the ticking noise on driver side in fear of lifter or worse. After watching your two videos in which the solution was loose coil pack wire arcing got the best of me , so I had to go to the dealership service and check this solution. Popped the hood and started checking wires- #3 cylinder wire fell off after slight wiggle, plugged back in . PROBLEM SOLVED! Showed service manager who started the truck when it arrived and heard the noise , couldn't believe it. THANKS Kenny!!!
I stumbled on your previous video in regards to the ticking 5.3 that was related to the plug wire issue. At the time I had been chasing down a ticking noise with my wife's 2013 Yukon which I had just recently rebuilt the entire top end. DOD lifter had failed and ate the cam. Needless to say I was having flashbacks. While the new noise wasn't caused by a plug wire issue it did get me snooping around a bit more and I caught a glimpse of some soot at the manifold near the firewall. There were two exhaust manifold bolts that had either work their way loose or I had failed to fully tighten them. Snugged them down good and checked the rest. The engine is back to purring like a kitten. Crazy how something so simple is so easily missed. Thank you for the other video as it got me to look into it more and eventually got me headed in the right direction.
This is exactly what scares me about the newer 5.3 or 6.2 with AFM systems - Why won't GM fix this issue? They say only 3% of the vehicles are impacted by this, but the fact that they persist with this defective system is beyond all reason. Gents - the older ones are bullet-proof, but be careful inventing in the newer ones, because GM doesn't care about customers anymore - they only care about the government.
I just got a 2022 5.3 Tahoe….good thing to look for in a few years! Glad to see some mechanics that don’t just keep throwing parts at the problem…at customers expense of course!
THESE 5.3 engines are truly amazing. I have one in a Suburban with 320k miles and the entire car is perfect mechanically!!! I also have one with an aluminum block in a GMC Envoy and that engine is fine, but other things wear out on this mid-sized SUV - the Suburban is a truck and everything is very solid on that vehicle. Gents, buy the TRUCK chassis 100% truck SUV's like the Suburban - the old ones last forever.
As an old former muffler mechanic, I can tell you if you're lucky (or the customer) the bolt isn't broken, it just fell out. Back in my shop days, that was the case about half the time.
On most of these "ls" motors the bolts are broken. After a decade of this problem you would have thought GM would upgrade the manifold bolts but hell then they can't charge your for a repair.
@mgmjferg89 there was an updated bolt. I have them on my 6.2L LS. They seem a lot stronger then the old ones so far. Knock on wood.... Thermal cycling kills the old ones, where the heads pop right off
Most mechanics around here in the Seattle area just refuse to work on stuff like this that. Either that or they say new engine. You are one of the good ones. Crappy mechanics around here pushed me to learn most of this stuff on my own (and with help from TH-cam). This still sounds like a pain in the ass repair to get a broken bolt out of the head.
It's not necessarily that tough. If you can get at the bolt, you can grab it with vise-grips, spot weld a bolt onto the end of it, use a bolt extractor, or (this one sucks) drill and tap it out. Good thing is, once you've torn one apart, the rest are much easier. Go figure it out bro, that's how I learned before the interwebs had everything you could hope to know at your fingertips. Good luck, happy wrenching!
True! I'm in the Seattle area and learned to do things myself. Too many mechanics around here looking to make money off ya, so i took the time to figure out repairs on my own. Saved thousands!
I bought an 01’ GMC 2500HD with the LQ9 in it for $350 several years ago because the guy claimed the lifters were bad. As soon as I went to see the truck, the guy hit the key and I knew it was an exhaust leak instantly. Gave him his $350 and drove the truck away smiling ear to ear. I recently sold it for $7500 with only 167k miles.
Not to be that guy but your truck has the LQ4. LQ9 has different pistons, cam, and maybe a few other small things for performance. They were only installed in the Escalade, H2 hummer, and the Silverado SS.
@@jacobauld565 No sir. Your data on when the lq9 was offered and in what vehicle is correct. However, the lq4 was replaced with an lq9 in my truck in 2014 due to an oiling issue. The guy then developed an exhaust leak. Someone told him it was “the dreaded GM lifter tick” Disgusted, he sold it to me (a neighborhood guy) for next to nothing. That truck is still going strong with the junkyard lq9
I’ll tell ya another way to check for those exhaust leaks if you can’t see any traces of carbon tracks, works well, spray those areas with soapy water with squirt bottle, then take a shop vac and reverse the airflow, put it at the tail pipe assuming you don’t have any large exhaust leaks underneath, and you will see bubbles/foaming between the head and manifold, it works very well too
No I can't stop.my close friends keep having problems on their autos..66 yrs old now .I keep trying to solve other mechanics Screw ups.nice to hear from you. Have a God bless day
What were the symptoms your 5.3 was giving with the broken bolts and bad lifter? I have a 2009 5.3 V8 Silverado that makes a knocking noise when I first turn it on, then it goes away after a little bit of driving. Thank you
When looking for noises, it's handy to use a piece of tubing--large vacuum hose is good for this--you stick one end in (or close to) your ear, and then probe around to where the sounds becomes louder. It's an easy way to pinpoint the location of the sound. I have this motor, and I was able to track a light knocking noise to the . . . fuel pump, using this vacuum hose method. In the case of this video, it would sure beat finding an exhaust leak with your hand!😱
Yes I have a stethoscope. I used a long screwdriver putting it on parts of machinery with the end of the handle pressed in my ear to isolating bearing noises on processing equipment.
Thank You for this.....2009 Chev 5.3l.... I knew it wasnt lifters......bottom end, passenger side...loud at start up.....went away after 10 min driving......Manifold was loose AF!.....Just air being pushed with the combustion.....Great video!
How do you know if it is lifters? My 2009 5.3L Silverado makes a little knocking sound when I first start it up, different from the noise in this video, but it goes away after I drive for a little bit. I just ordered a Range AFM device to try to help the problem.
@@holyspiritandkevin8441 When my lifters were bad, the sound was more consistent, got a bit softer as the engine warmed up, but never really goes away completely. Plus, you can really hear it under the valve covers if you open the hood at start up. The manifold problem can really be heard in the wheel wells.
I do work on my own truck and I couldn't find it either. I can guess that you will claim to do work on your own truck. Hiring someone else to do the work while you watch what the mechanic does is not the same as working on your truck. I can't believe I didn't think to look for carbon building up at the mounting surface. I'm subscribing. Don't worry Thomas I was only representing the fella that had enough intelligence to hire this guy. I wasn't going to let an opportunity like this one too get away
I do work on my own truck and I couldn't find it either. I can guess that you will claim to do work on your own truck. Hiring someone else to do the work while you watch what the mechanic does is not the same as working on your truck. I can't believe I didn't think to look for carbon building up at the mounting surface. I'm subscribing. Don't worry Thomas I was only representing the fella that had enough intelligence to hire this guy. I wasn't going to let an opportunity like this one too get away
@@Savantrez - I was trained by a Chief Mechanical Officer who once told me in the 70's that the three most important diagnostic tools I have are: 1. My Eyes 2. My Ears 3. My Nose He was right! Kenny is a great mechanic and you'll enjoy subscribing to his content. And yes, I was a mechanic before I was hired to the railroad. I also did work on my own vehicles, and I was an instructor that had worked my way up through the ranks to teach railroad mechanics how to repair and maintain $750,000 diesel locomotive engines nationwide. The whole fleet. That kept me pretty busy and life flew by, so I left auto mechanics for 40 years and now that I'm retired, I still like to wrench. However, a lot has changed in 40+ years to catch up on! Thank Goodness For Kenny and TH-cam!
I'm amazed these vids still pop up; these are known issues with LS for the last 20 years. Ticks are rarely ever lifters in the LS or cams (99 to 06/07). They are generally pushrods having drilled out the rocker arms or sheared off exhaust manifold bolts(almost always the very front or very rear bolts). Probably 90% of ticks in the Gen III motors. 08 and up add the DoD/AFM failures to those tick sources. This engine also seems to have a lot of piston slap(likely aluminum block, which transmits that sound better) but while annoying it's a non-issue.
@@jason3211 But it's still the factory rockers. Pull the driver side rockers and look at the cup the pushrod rides in. It should be a polished divot the size of the pushrod end. If it's enlarged, deepened and/or looks more like a brushed surface than polished, and your pushrod ball looks more like an egg, there's your issue.
Thank you so much Sir!!!! After so much searching and countless estimates that i got, most in the thousands $$ your diagnosis was 100% accurate. I had 3 broken bolts, costing me only $300.00 labor,bolts, extraction and gasket. The muffler shop mechanic only took him 2 1/2 hours and now my truck it sounds amazing. Thank you so much Sir!!!!
I am lucky and still drive a 2004 Silverado with the 5.3l back when GM made good 5.3l engines. I would not pay my hard earned money on any domestic made vehicle right now. If I had to buy a new truck I would get a Ram. I know they have their Lifter/Camshaft issues, but near as bad as GM. Ford Eco-Boost engines are really hit or miss. Real crap shoots you either get a good one or a bad one. I had a bad 2015 Ford Fusion for my wife and planned on buying a GM made vehicle to trade it in on and my buddy that is a GM service tech warned me and said just don't do it go buy a Toyota or Honda these new direct injected engines are very problematic. Domestic cars are designed to last just until the warranty goes out then they start failing. He had replaced 3 engines in Trail Blazers that month. We got a Toyota and man are we glad we did. As far as trucks are concerned they are all a crap shoot now. They charge you 60-90 grand and put a crap warranty on them. For as much money as they are selling them for you should have a warranty that goes to 200k miles IMO.
I agree . I'm not a fan of the Toyota trucks at all . Had to go with a friend on a road trip in his 19 Tundra Diamond Edition . Beautiful truck . But I swear , a Wrangler would have had a better ride . After 6 hours , I couldn't stand it anymore. Totally turned me off to Toyota. Honda doesn't make a truck . They make a front wheel drive Pilot ElCamino ... Barely hold a full cooler without bottoming out . I'm not a Nissan fan , however , they make a darn good truck nowadays. The ram is also good . I worked for Chrysler for 22 years. The trucks driven aggressively, never had cam or lifter issues ... The ones driven like an old lady going to church , those ate camshafts . Thanks for watching !!
I feel the same way I have an 2011 with 5.3 so far so good I disabled the afm system with a programmer it's got 200k on it so far knock on wood no issues so far I also have a 2001 with an 8.1 has 330 k miles but needs a new Trans I'm keeping it around just in case I need it no way I'm paying today prices especially for the junk they are building today
06 Z71 suburban and it runs circles around my wife’s 08 Suburban, and my Uncles 2019 Denali XL. Bought it from the dealer brand new and only problem I had to this very day of ownership was the left side wheel bearing blew out coming home from work, weekend fixed both sides and it still runs circles around any of these newer 5.3’s!
@@heresjohnny5808 You are lucky there are plenty of legit issues with the 5.3l engines when they changed from cast Iron blocks and added active fuel management. 2005 and older are the best IMO. Look at the engine failures they have now on the trucks and their cars. It s so bad right now with the Eco-Tec engines there are none to replace the engines that fail. Its that bad right now. Car Wizard has some good videos on that very thing. I am glad you did not have the issues others had man you missed the bullet:P
Yea, that’s common. Ls exhaust manifold bolts are just too small diameter. They need changed before you hit 100k miles or they’re likely to start breaking in my experiences. Unless you throw some arps on. Another common “tick” is that crush gasket on the drivers side exhaust manifold (pretty sure it’s the driver side) , they go out around the same time the exhaust manifold bolts start going. If they start breaking, don’t take it to a shop and get got for about $2k cash. Throw the front end up on jack stands, remove the wheels and fender liners, and steering column section, (do the following work from the fender area) remove the headers. already have the new gaskets, bolts and thread locker, and spare nuts, something like 1/2” and 3/8”. Even if the bolts are not broke flush and stick out, go ahead and weld a nut on it, and run it out with a little patience, you’ll get everyone of them, with ease and no problems. When putting everything back together, do NOT put anti seize on the exhaust manifold bolts, they WILL back out after a couple months and cause another exhaust leak, instead use high strength or removable high strength loctite or vibratite. If you go arp, you should be sat for the life of the vehicle, if you go with gm or other brand, change them before you hit the next 100k miles and you won’t have to deal with this again (or before what ever mileage interval you just when they started breaking. Flux core welders do work for this repair too, just turn the wire speed down and heat up, put some heat in the weld
I hear ticking when I'm by a wall or a drive thru. And I always used valvoline full synthetic. I'm definitely going to switch and hope that can't bring the tick down. It's not loud like this vehicle but you can hear it when I'm by a wall
@@gerardocontreras9547 Funny you should mention. I could hear that ticking every day after work when I'd pull up by the wall at the drive up at the coffee place. When I switched to GM Dexos, it made a big difference. I hear it's made by Mobil 1. Good luck.
Ps my dads name is Kenny as well n he’s a great mechanic but he is battling cancer so I just need to show him his daughter can do this !!! Thank you :)
Very common issue on those engines. Have repaired a ton for the same problem. I usually just weld a nut to the stud if broken off inside block. Firewall bolts are always the ones to break. I don't understand why GM hasn't corrected this well known defect.
My 2001 Suburban had a mysterious tick which was emanating from the #1 plug wire, but would quit when I lifted up on the wire. Turns out the spark plug had loosened up and was arcing on the head. Took it back to the shop that had installed the plugs and they replaced three plugs, fixed it.
Just wanted to make a comment thanking you dearly thought I had a destroyed 5.3L from a 2003 Silverado was puzzled on what to do with it and found your lovely video made my headache go away almost instantly after looking at the exhaust!!
That's a bingo with the exhaust leak. I bought a low mileage Chevy Tahoe from the auction claiming it had engine noise. Got it cheap. Upon examination discovered a major misdiagnosis. Two broken exhaust studs driver side rear. Took a stethoscope to the engine itself and it was quiet as a church mouse. Oil pressure good. long story short I bought a beautiful 2016 low mileage Chevy Tahoe for $3,000 at auction, replaced the two exhaust studs and the vehicle runs and drives perfect. Exhaust leaks are very common problem on L Series Chevrolet engines. Hope you all get a great steal yourselves out there, but make sure it is an exhaust leak because some 5.3's have lifter issues and they don't come out from the top either.
What are the signs of lifter issues? I have a 2009 Silverado 5.3 V8 that makes a kind of knocking sound when I start it up, then goes away after I drive for a little bit. Thanks
@@holyspiritandkevin8441 Lifters make a ticking sound. A knock could be anything from a rod bearing, loose torque converter bolts, bad piston wrist pin, even a bad harmonic balancer. You need to check your oil pressure warmed up. Not cold. If its below 25psi or lower warmed up it may be a rod or main bearing. I would use a stethoscope and listin around the engine to target the noise. If your oil pressure is a little bit low, try putting a heavier viscosity in it, and if the knock calms down, you most likely have a main or rod bearing issue. There is also an O-ring behind the timing cover that goes on to the oil pump assy. and they are known to go bad and cause the engine to lose oil pressure and could cause engine noise when it's cold. When the engine heats up the O-ring expands and oil pressure goes up. Your engine could be starving for oil from a bad o-ring. Hope all this helps but very hard to diagnose a problem without actually looking at the vehicle and listening to it. Good luck!
I owned an 2002 Silverado with the 5.3L, and when my ticking issue arose, it was the catalytic converter. It was actually covered under warranty at a Chevrolet dealership. Not sure if GM ever issued any bulletins or recalls about the issue. I was actually surprised that I didn't have to pay anything.
Well, the sound was different. It had two separate ticks going on - completely different than a lifter tick. Auto Repair is 90% diagnostics and 10% changing parts. Kenny knows how to diagnose so he is a golden mechanic.
I used to find exhaust noises with a piece of heater hose. Put one end to your ear and run the other end around the manifold. When you get to the leak you will know without any doubt.
Yup, same here. Wasn't surprised at all & knew that sound instantly. It's a super common problem on many, many engines nowadays, especially pickup trucks with V8 & V10 engines.
Stopped the video at 0:40 to comment because I believe I already know. It's the infamous broken exhaust manifold bolt. Just the way it was described that once the engine warms up the noise goes away. I have a Caddy Escalade EXT (2008) that had this issue. I used one of those quick bolt on fixes and it has been great for 3+ years. Now...the GM V8 does have a habit of ticking like a lifter. I have owned several GM trucks dating back to the early 1990's and the truck I had with this issue was a 1996 Silverado 5.3. It was not the exhaust because it would tap all day. In the early motors I believe they had a valve train issue. I will click play and edit only if I was wrong.
Did not edit because I was right. But wanted to verify my engine. My truck is an Escalade EXT 2008 with the 6.2 and the broken exhaust boat was the driver side rear bolt which made putting on the bolt on "squeeze" fix tough because your hand is being smashed between the back of the head and the fire wall. But this usually happens to the same spot no matter the head position. The heads are identical from left to right. So if you have this issue on the passenger side it will likely be the front most bolt which is much easier to deal with.
GM cheaping out on metal quality is the real reason for this. Never used to happen this soon (Or in most cases, at all) on the older 350 / 5.7 engines.
I have a 2019 Chevy express van I drive for work, the cat bangs against the cross member and has cracked the pipe where it is welded to the flange, these new vehicles are junk
The 2016 GMC Sierra Denali I own with the 5.3 is the most problematic vehicle I’ve ever owned. I have the ticking in the drivers side cold and it’s the purge valve by the throttle body. The passenger side is notorious for leaking, especially after GM does the AFM lifter failure repair and re uses the original bolts. Nice job!
I just replaced my manifold bolts with the oem, since the lifter was replaced in July. Im glad I saw this video, I’d be into more of a headache. Happy Holidays!
Wow. Makes me that much more comfortable with the van I have on the way to me to be delivered with an exhaust leak. I won’t be thinking the engine is no good. Thank you
Those ls are notorious for the front and rear bolts on the exhaust manifolds breaking off. I've been thru 3 spools of wire to date removing these for people.
Thank you for posting this video. This is EXACTLY what is happening with my GMC Sierra (same bolt, even). Your video was very helpful in understanding what was going on and I appreciate your followup video on how to do the repair.
My friend had an 09 5.3. He had a tick that ended up being the camshaft. Supposedly the camshafts on those years were hardened 2 different times causing a few of the lobes to get wiped out. One lobe was obvious to see with your eyes.
Easy fix, part store sells a bracket just for this problem that bolts onto the back of the motor and tightens to the face of the exhaust manifold. Same thing will happen to the other side as well, they make a braket for that as well. Of course could you could go the expense route if u like, which if you have the 706 heads you will be doing anyways. Good luck!
I had a ticking noise on my 17 Tahoe. Dealer caused so many excuses. I found another TH-cam video where it was the vacuum pump on the front lower drivers side of the engine. Sounded just like a lifter or exhaust leak. Finally got the dealer to change the pump and quiet as a mouse.
I was thinking I had a lifter tick and was looking at Afm delete kit. I read this comment and went to check the vacuum pump and I do believe it could be the pump. I replaced the pump about 3 months before GM recalled them. Kenny is there any way I can definitely rule out the lifter?
The vacuum pump has a stretch drive belt on it. you can attempt to take the belt off the pump if you can figure out a way of how to get the belt back on the pump or what I did was I used a microphone and put it on the back of the pump and you can clearly hear the ticking coming from there.
@@tommycrump8525, like fiero880 said , remove the belt on the pump . Even though you replaced the pump , it could be faulty . Check all the manifold bolts and make sure none are broken . You can get a mechanics stethoscope at Harbor Freight to place on the valve cover and vacuum pump to try and pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
This is a common problem with Chevys over the last 20 years. Every single one I’ve owned, from new to used, eventually had this exhaust leak. I’ve had it in the 4.3 V6 as well as the 5.3
Ya gotta love these 5.3’s I have a 2000 LM7 5.3, I’ve had it 21 years. It’s got 207K on it and I just changed the plugs and wires. At 100K the plugs were in perfect condition and showed no wear. So when I did the recent plug replacement I got a good look at the exhaust manifold bolts. The heads of them look like chocolate chips 😂 I’m expecting an exhaust leak sooner or later. And I’ll address that when it is needed. Unfortunately my truck will probably crumble into a dust pan before that happens. Gotta love the northeast…. Great videos 👍
I believe more times than not I have seen people's "ticking" to be exhaust leaks. Otherwise... ignition issues, bad pulley bearings, intake leaks, a light tick sound from injectors and of course a loose spark plug (exhaust/system leak). More times than not it is repairable without major work.
I had ticking in my 63 Chevy Impala convertible 283 54 years ago I would adjust the valves and in no time it would start again ....Chevy has a history of ticking.
You would think as many years as this engine design has been around you would think GM could figure out you need bigger manifold bolts and possibly a redesigned manifold. I think every single one I've ever worked on had atleast two of the back bolts brake off, anywhere from 40k to 200k miles.
Nope, it’s a cast iron and aluminum cooling issue. Bigger bolts or a different manifold design using the same materials will do nothing. Compare the hemi cast iron exhaust manifolds to the srt cast steel exhaust manifolds. One breaks the bolts the other doesn’t nearly as much.
All said and done the root cause of the problem is the carbon and sludge build up and also the engine vibration. Both put together will have effect on the exhaust connection ,bolts, and other things . Best of the best bolts will give in to such conditions
@@joshkrause2977 : Bingo Josh! You'll notice any engine that has a steel head and a steel manifold doesn't have this problem, arguably... ever. The true problem is that manufacturers have been using aluminum cylinder heads for about 40 years now, and then they bolt steel manifolds to them. To put it rather bluntly, it's just freaking stupid. Exhaust manifold fasteners can only take so much heat cycling and shear stress before they fail. That's the reality.
Ticking noise is very common when sitting and idling for a few min, main reason I have found and fixed 3 trucks so far is the oil pickup tub seal.I dealt with the issue for 2 years before discovering this. Fixed it 3 years with new seal and hasn’t done it since. I tried to find help from GM techs and they couldn’t even help me. New oil pick up seal and oil pan gasket and not another embarrassing drive through experience at Burger King since I did it
@@NORCALPYRO_ Search for gm exhaust manifold clamp. Dorman makes one that bolts to the back of the head and then has a bolt that pushes against the manifold when you tighten it.
4:20 BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!! My rattling noise comes from the passenger rear area of the engine!!! Mine doesn't sound as loud as yours and it seems to go partially away after a couple of minutes. I just drove it over two hundred miles with no problem, but I think the noise is worse after the trip. Last year I had the exhaust manifold removed on that side because I saw that, three bolts where broken. It made no noise, however. I had the bolts and gasket replaced!!! Still, no noise. The noise actually Does sound like a few coils are ticking! Thank you for this video. I really thought it was the rear main bearing, $$$, but I thought, why would it be from only one side? Well, just a thought checked it again. It's not the manifold and not the bearing. It seems to ch a new location. Now it seems like it is in the area of the right rear passenger area under the car. I ran it for one minute and it was very loud and then it stopped completely. I turned it off and restarted it and it came back quieter. I think something could be loose in thr exhaust the tightens up when it heats up. Any thoughts on that? Most mechanics just throw parts at the problem because Thinking and troubleshooting is so much harder. Case in point. The directional signal and emergency flasher don't work. Change the flasher, right? Wrong! The fuse was good, but it had corrosion on it. I scrapped it off and they came back on. Another case in point. The P4020 code for the cat came on and the computer wouldn't get the car ready for emissions. The problem was the need for a Drive Cycle after the battery had gone dead for three days and I installed a new one. Another case in point. The entire interior of my Tahoe would go electrically dead while driving. I mean, everything electrical was dead but the truck would still drive. When a mechanic had worked inside the dash, they didn't put everything back in its proper place. There is a small Black Box above your left shin that snaps into a galvanized bracket. It was just floating inside it and moving around and every time I made a hard left turn, the car would go dead and sometimes stay dead. When I made a sharp right turn, the power came back on. Something must be moving! I found the loose box and snapped it into the holder and the problem never returned.
A few exhaust studs on my 97 f150 looked like rivets when I changed them out. They rusted out so bad I had to grind them down flush with the manifold to get the manifolds off, then heat up every stud on it to pull them out of the heads. The manifolds themselves were so bad, there was no reusing them, they had to be replaced. Out of all that though, they never leaked although it was getting there. Now with new studs and manifolds, it's good to go for years to come. The one noise I can't stand is leaky manifolds.
I'm only at 1:05-have not skipped forward, and I already know what it is.. Broken exhaust bolt on #7 allowing a tapping or exhaust leak sound when COLD.. Once it warms up, the exhaust manifold expands and the tapping goes away.. #7 on these engines ALWAYS runs hotter than the other 7 and the expansion from heat, and contraction when cold, eventually break the head off the bolt at the rear most location on the drivers side-cylinder #7.. It is SO common. I run a transmission shop and almost every single vehicle that comes in with an LS engine is missing at minimum 1 exhaust manifold bolt-if not multiple bolts. Update.. that is an LT motor not, and LS! I still got it right though! I'm at 4:58 now..
Loose spark plug also could also cause that squeaking noise. That was my immediate thought when I heard the squeak. When I do lifters I always replace manifold bolts. I hate when people don’t do that.
A lady I worked with bought a brand new Mercury Mountaineer around 2000 or 2001 and I drove it once a few months after she got it and it did the exact same thing, but I think it was on the driver's side. I can't say for sure but I think it had the 5.0l V8. She had only just started hearing the noise a few days earlier and hadn't really given it much thought but I told her I suspected it was the exhaust manifold not being sealed to the engine. A few days later she had taken it to the dealer and sure enough, they found a couple of loose bolts and fixed it under warranty.
I knew right when you started the engine what it was. The high pressure injectors will cause a ticking too which everyone says it's normal. I have the 4.3 v6 in my 14 Silverado.
@@victorcarreon7800 : Injector "ticking" is both a common & normal sound made by the electronically operated poppet valve inside each injector each time it's electronically "fired", on common-rail high pressure fuel injection systems. You can put a long screwdriver, a mechanic's stethoscope, or even a length of hose, to any injector body & to your ear while engine is running in order to amplify & hear the tick sound. Some side notes pertaining to exhaust manifold leaks: On a cool engine, soapy dish detergent water dispensed via a spray bottle to suspected gasket and/or crack areas also works well to find exhaust manifold leaks. Also, visually inspect for blown out exhaust port gaskets & exhaust soot trails from such areas. Most common exhaust manifold leaks come from burnt and/or blown out gaskets, caused by broken/rotted off manifold bolts.
Most common issue is if not lifters and after having sat is problems with exhaust manifold leaking! Very common issue with the ls, and dodge hemi's. Both my wifes yukon denali with the 6.2 ls and my dad's HD 2500 Silverado have this exact issue. The problem lies with the head being aluminum and the exhaust manifold being cast iron. The two different materials expand at different rates and causes flexing that break the bolts, or even crack the manifold.
I have a 2019 Silverado 5.3l and stopped using 0w20. I went to 10w30 and much of the tick and tap noises went away. I have about 119,000 miles on the truck, all highway, and I've done every oil change myself. If you have a stealer doing your oil changes, make sure they don't try to sneak you out the door with 6 qts of oil in an 8 qt system. Yeah, I do all my own oil changes. I used to drive it in 7th gear to hold out all of the valve timing and emissions crap, but I installed a Pulsar LT unit. One of the best items I've every purchased for one of my trucks. The truck runs great so far.
They make a clamp kit for these that uses existing holes in the block and head to push the manifold up tight to the head. Works great saves having to drill out broken bolts.
Thank you so much this helped so much you know your stuff i just bought my moms tahoe from auction she just passed sunday and i do not want to have to put alot of money into it definatly saved me alot of time and money we need more youtubers like you
I have an 01 Suburban with 320,000 miles and it's NEVER had a ticking issue ever. Be certain the oil is full. I never lose any oil in this one - I can drive a few thousand miles and the oil stays full and, also, the use synthetic and now I need to replace the headliner, but the engine is excellent. These 5.3 engines are great!!!
My mother has an 08 suburban with a 5.3. We had lifter failure, and a few other issues which lead to a total engine replacement (not my suggestion) and after 20k, I was driving it, changed the oil. All was well, 50 mile drive home after, and it sounded like lifters again. But after using a stethoscope on both heads, I couldn't determine a metallic noise comming from the valve train. Checked coils and they appeared to be fine as well. Now I'm wondering if this is our issue. Problem is it doesn't change once it gets to op temperature. Thanks for this, now I feel dumb and have something to trace down now lol.
this is how I got my free L83 for my c10. It was pulled under warranty by the dealer and they were just gonna toss it. Similar thing happened with my wrangler with the Mopar/amc 4.0 inline 6, except it was the "windage tray" that sits above the rocker arms. I had pushed it down slightly with an oversized funnel when I was changing oil. Just enough so when it was cold it would touch but warm would be just fine. Figured it out by dropping and Alan key below the oil fill cap and lifting up on the tray while it was ticking, immediately stopped. As you showed, take your time and don't jump to conclusions.
Wow !! Good for you !! Years back , I wound up with a 96 LT1 long block from a WS6 Trans Am . The customer was hearing minor piston slap but was such a pain that GM decided to warranty the engine to shut them up !! I did the job and the new motor was exactly the same lol !!
I have a 02 Silverado with a 5.3 and have 575,000 miles. Blowing a little blue smoke on startup. Ticked since I've bought it new at start up an sitting long times and idling
@@anthonynicholich9654 replaced first one at 250,000 then the another at 575,000. Currently on a good used one that came out of a wrecked Tahoe. The second one was bought as a remanufactured from Chevrolet and just lost 2nd and 4th.
i got rid of my ticking on my 05 5.3 just by changing to 10w40 conventional Castrol GTX oil with K&n filter. Been 3 years now with no tick and better oil pressure. Engine has 290K
I thought this sounds like my truck and it was a broken exhaust manifold bolt. I replaced the bolts with studs on all three of my trucks, Best $50 I ever spent on parts.
I have a chevy silverado V8 4.8 it tick 3 to 4 minutes after starting. 15 to 20 minutes later it stops. After that it runs extremely quiet. Until I let cool down it won't tick. Do you think it's my exhaust manifold bolt?
that noise was way past a "ticking" sound. my 5.3 ticks like a time bomb but that is the sound it makes. a "ticking" just like a clock. that 5.3 sounded like a tractor. i agree, if he does his own work he should have seen that right off the bat.
I was pretty much going off what he told me when he dropped it off. It was hot and sounded smooth. He really thought it was a camshaft because of everything he's read online. He's happy I found it wasn't a cam. He's actually bringing it back in two weeks for me to fix it
I had that same engine. I noticed it making that sound one day after I pulled out a spark plug and threw a fistful of sand into the cylinder. I never did figure out what caused it.
I've recently started to keep a closer eye on my truck now that I'm getting rather high in the miles. I am worried that it could be a lifter being that I had a misfire about a week ago. I immediately changed my spark plugs that night. So far, so good. However I have been getting a lot of gas fume smells in my cabin, especially at a stop. I asked Uncle Google and it said it could be an exhaust issue. I looked under the hood after I got home from work and could hear a ticking noise. I thought maybe it was something to do with the spark plugs or coils. But after watching this video, it seems more apparent that it's a broken exhaust manifold bolt. But I'm going to bring my truck in for an inspection regardless.
FYI for people tracking down exhaust leaks. Connect the exhaust side of your shop vacuum to your tail pipe to pressurize exhaust, then spray soapy water on the flanges, joints etc. No more burnt fingers.
Thank you so much! I have the same exact symptoms and I got to looking at my exhaust manifold and I have a broken bolt on the back side and sure enough exhaust leak! You’re the man bro!
Older 5.3’s had a cold start tick/knock it was piston slap but since they started making these 4.8 5.3 6.0 engines they have always had problems with the exhaust manifold bolts breaking causing exhaust leaks and thank god there is so much room and they are so easy to fix unlike fords! Whenever I have a 4.6 5.4 6.8 Ford truck come in for exhaust manifolds the customers always get shocked at the price and ask if I can do any better and I always tell them to be honest I don’t even want to do the job and if anything it’s gonna cost more money it depends on how much time I have into getting the broken studs out. They say why wouldn’t you want to do it? I say they are a pain in the ass to do there is no room so if you want it done this is the price you either want it done or u don’t.
I usually turn down the Fords honestly . I have soo much work that I get to pick and choose . But when I do decide to do them , I get the same thing from the customers , "Why soo much" ? Pretty much the same answer I give , Its a PIA job . Thanks for watching !!
My '07 Classic 4.8 only ticks after the motor has been on for about 3-5 minutes. But it will not tick with every drive. I had broken exhaust bolts. Replaced both manifolds, hardware, and gaskets. Tick still there but not with every drive. The only consistency is that it will only tick after the motor has been running for about 3-5 minutes. It will go sometimes for two weeks and not tick at all. Then it will start up again, skip one day, tic the next then skip day or two and then tick the next several times the motor is on but only after about 3-5 minutes. The times the motor does tick, it fades in about 3-5 minutes of the motor being on, ticks for about 3-5 minutes then fades away and purrs like a kitten. Like I said, the only consistent part is the tick (if it ticks at all) only happens after the motor has been on for 3-5 minutes. Then ticks for 3-5 minutes and then fades away and purrs like a kitten.
Hey I have a 06 chevy silverado 4.8 it tick once started up for 3 to 5 minutes but goes away once engine is warmed up 15 to 20 minutes later. U think it's a exhaust manifold bolt?
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
This guy knows engine repair. He is not a parts changer that throws your money at a problem until its accidently fixed.
This gut just works on ls engines regularly.... literally every chevy truck from 2000 forward has at least on broken manifold bolt, if not two. In my experience its generally the driver side rear bolt that is broken pretty much always.
we have a 2007 Tahoe with 185000 miles and there are 2 broken bolts on the passenger side. It goes away in a min or 2.
I have the AFM turned off and I really believe doing this has saved the lifters as it runs WAY better than when it was activated.
@@thomasnew8606 yeah, turning off afm prevents lifter from dropping and oil burning. I have run Tahoe’s for 6+ years without issues turned off
So that's what I'm called hahaha.
I live live in Florida i am a Tech for Chevrolet . lol
Diagnosing the actual problem is so hard for many of us garage warriors. Love the thought process training. Thank you!!
Darned outstanding video.!!!! No drama. No click bait. No BS. Your presentation is spot-on perfect. It’s as if a normal person is giving the information. And, that’s rare on the tube. Thanks for the EXCELLENT VIDEO!!!!
Thank you soo much !! Really appreciate that !!
@razorsedge is it possible the tin shield near the starter became distorted and is touching the flexplate ?
@@WrenchingWithKenny I notice that Noise after cold starts in the morning then Goes away after warm up idk why
Thanks WWK! Saves me a headache 🤕 hassle. I have a 2013, Avalanche, I got a good scan tool and found a misfire on #6.. the spark plug wire was broken and someone put the wrong plug In. New wires, plug and coil helped..
I’m getting a P015D, P0446, P0451.. Evap and a Fuel Pressure Sensor error. How do I fix this problem? What parts do I need and do I need a replacement Evap line?
@@Chanchito510sticking lifter
Salute.... There are very few mechanics like you left in this world..
Stupid ass comment...
word up ,no doubt, got that right, preach it
Mechanic vs. “Technician”
When I worked in the oil patch we had a cheap and fast way to fix most problems with our trucks...
Turn up the radio LOUD!!!
Lmao if it’s a patch truck and the truck makes a noise… god knows what the problem may be as those poor trucks go through so much. Used to work for a trucking company who built c-rings for fracking and we had a 13 duramax, too nice of a truck to be a patch truck. I cringed seeing the shit us guys put that poor truck through haha
We used to say, kick the fuse panel.
Best mechanic I have ever watched on TH-cam. Very knowledgeable and straight forward. He actually fixes the problem from theory to diagnostic and then section and finally to the issue. My favorite channel now.
As soon as you started it I knew exactly what it was. The sound was the key here. That is no lifter. You can hear the exhaust escaping from around the manifold. Very distinct sound compared to a valve or lifter tick which is more metallic in nature as well as internal and sometimes muffled. This is external by nature. Either a broken stud/studs or cracked manifold itself. Like he said very common. Especially northern exposure vehicles due to snow and salt emulsion. Death by CORROSION. Truthfully I have repaired only a dozen or so lifter jobs on these due to the fact that they were caught early but if left alone you are looking at cam and lifter replacement. Once it starts it just progresses from there to total carnage of the cam. It’s good that this man is around for him. Good ear as well as knowledgeable about these engines. But most importantly EXPERIENCED. Just because they went to school to learn how it works doesn’t meant they are experts. Experience is gained by years of working on them. Not a text book. Good example of old school vs new school. Very informative video. 👍
This is clearly Putin's fault
Wait are you saying if I have this leak due to a bolt that broke it can completely damage the lifters and cam?
@@alexpasillas3187 : No, that's NOT what he was saying at all.
@@MercuryRisingFast that would be a rod bearing. Pull the oil pan and windage tray to inspect the rods. Look for up and down movement. Side to side is normal to a curtain degree but up and down is not good. If you find up and down then you may have a spun bearing. Depending on how long it has been doing that will determine whether or not you need just bearings or a tear down to replace rods. Put the vehicle up on lift and have it running. Listen to where the knocking is concentrated at. If it is down low you have a bad rod bearing or more. If further up towards the top of the engine near the heads you have piston slap from bad rod pin sleeve. If the later then a tear down is required to replace pistons and rods. Full lower end rebuild. That’s worst case scenario. But if just a spun bearing and no visible damage to the journals then bearing will fix the issue. If there is damage then the crank needs to come out and replaced if the damage can’t be cleaned up and smoothed out to spec. If can be cleaned and smoothed out oversized bearings will work. Need to spec the journals after smoothing with a micrometer so you get the correct size. That’s it in a nut shell. Good luck.
@@MercuryRisingFast have to check that periodically. If there is an issue of low oil then yeah it can come up out of the blue. I don’t like to be the barer of bad news but from what I read in your post that is most likely the issue. But I could be wrong. It could be something else entirely but then you would need to have it checked out by the dealer or someone you can trust to give you the right information. Good luck on getting fixed. Actually worst case would be a new engine but nowadays engines can be had pretty cheep with low miles. Just getting it installed will cost you.
When i listen for noises on any engines i use 3/4 heater coolant hoses 3' long and listen through the hose by using rubber hose it drowns out all other noise and makes it real easy to find any noise. You nailed it.
A soild bar works better and is safer. 2 foot 3/8 extension works great.
We used to use a 2' full length metal screwdriver to listen for internal engine pings or knocks.
@@davehill1476 yeppers
Lisle sells a $20 mechanics stethoscope works great and comes with another add on tube with a rubber duck bill tip to listen for vacuum sounds
I use a very long 3/8 drive extension. Wife looked at me like I was crazy the first time she seen me get it out to listen for a ticking sound. I never thought about using a coolant hose.
Respect from northern Ontario Canada. You saved my 6 ltr V8 HD I was going to change the knock sensor then if that did not work I was thinking it was lifters and I may need to also change the cam. I was going to try a knock set delete. Here the entire time it was the muffler guys not fixing the issue. I got under it and made the repair after watching. You saved my thousands. Your a rock 🌟. Respect from northern Ontario Canada
And once again. You have not failed me! A lot of the other mechanic guys could learn a lot by watching you. You get straight to the point. You don’t stretch the video. You give a brief history. Some comparisons and then your thought process. That information alone is priceless! Thank you again sir 🙏🫡🥃
Hey Kenny, I am grateful for your GM ticking noise videos/solutions wish I would have found you sooner. Had my 2014 Silverado 4.3 V6 towed to GM shop recently for the ticking noise on driver side in fear of lifter or worse. After watching your two videos in which the solution was loose coil pack wire arcing got the best of me , so I had to go to the dealership service and check this solution. Popped the hood and started checking wires- #3 cylinder wire fell off after slight wiggle, plugged back in . PROBLEM SOLVED! Showed service manager who started the truck when it arrived and heard the noise , couldn't believe it. THANKS Kenny!!!
Good grief! I'm so glad I could help. Thanks for watching & leaving a comment. Keep wrenching 🔧
The stearlerships are in great shape...
I stumbled on your previous video in regards to the ticking 5.3 that was related to the plug wire issue. At the time I had been chasing down a ticking noise with my wife's 2013 Yukon which I had just recently rebuilt the entire top end. DOD lifter had failed and ate the cam. Needless to say I was having flashbacks. While the new noise wasn't caused by a plug wire issue it did get me snooping around a bit more and I caught a glimpse of some soot at the manifold near the firewall. There were two exhaust manifold bolts that had either work their way loose or I had failed to fully tighten them. Snugged them down good and checked the rest. The engine is back to purring like a kitten. Crazy how something so simple is so easily missed. Thank you for the other video as it got me to look into it more and eventually got me headed in the right direction.
Did the two missing bolts cause a ticking sound when accelerating?
This is exactly what scares me about the newer 5.3 or 6.2 with AFM systems - Why won't GM fix this issue? They say only 3% of the vehicles are impacted by this, but the fact that they persist with this defective system is beyond all reason. Gents - the older ones are bullet-proof, but be careful inventing in the newer ones, because GM doesn't care about customers anymore - they only care about the government.
@@rightturnclyde8575 They weren't missing but noticeably loose and the ticking definitely incresed with acceleration.
I just got a 2022 5.3 Tahoe….good thing to look for in a few years! Glad to see some mechanics that don’t just keep throwing parts at the problem…at customers expense of course!
Do yourself a favor and take the bolts out one by one and replace them with grade 8 bolts
THESE 5.3 engines are truly amazing. I have one in a Suburban with 320k miles and the entire car is perfect mechanically!!! I also have one with an aluminum block in a GMC Envoy and that engine is fine, but other things wear out on this mid-sized SUV - the Suburban is a truck and everything is very solid on that vehicle. Gents, buy the TRUCK chassis 100% truck SUV's like the Suburban - the old ones last forever.
Yep, very similar setup. Your bolts may not be broken, but you may want to have that driver's side engine mount checked.
Its so good to see someone who does their job the right way
It's sad that that is not normal. In the shop where I work, it's just another day. Diagnosing and repairing like we have been trained to do.
As an old former muffler mechanic, I can tell you if you're lucky (or the customer) the bolt isn't broken, it just fell out. Back in my shop days, that was the case about half the time.
On most of these "ls" motors the bolts are broken. After a decade of this problem you would have thought GM would upgrade the manifold bolts but hell then they can't charge your for a repair.
@mgmjferg89 there was an updated bolt.
I have them on my 6.2L LS.
They seem a lot stronger then the old ones so far. Knock on wood....
Thermal cycling kills the old ones, where the heads pop right off
Most mechanics around here in the Seattle area just refuse to work on stuff like this that. Either that or they say new engine. You are one of the good ones. Crappy mechanics around here pushed me to learn most of this stuff on my own (and with help from TH-cam). This still sounds like a pain in the ass repair to get a broken bolt out of the head.
It's not necessarily that tough. If you can get at the bolt, you can grab it with vise-grips, spot weld a bolt onto the end of it, use a bolt extractor, or (this one sucks) drill and tap it out.
Good thing is, once you've torn one apart, the rest are much easier. Go figure it out bro, that's how I learned before the interwebs had everything you could hope to know at your fingertips.
Good luck, happy wrenching!
Same here, I was going to get lifters replace, they said to buy a new motor.
True! I'm in the Seattle area and learned to do things myself. Too many mechanics around here looking to make money off ya, so i took the time to figure out repairs on my own. Saved thousands!
The idea of replacing an LS motor due to minor problems like this is bizarre.
There is a repair kit that simply bolts on to the engine and secures the manifold again
I bought an 01’ GMC 2500HD with the LQ9 in it for $350 several years ago because the guy claimed the lifters were bad. As soon as I went to see the truck, the guy hit the key and I knew it was an exhaust leak instantly. Gave him his $350 and drove the truck away smiling ear to ear. I recently sold it for $7500 with only 167k miles.
Not to be that guy but your truck has the LQ4. LQ9 has different pistons, cam, and maybe a few other small things for performance. They were only installed in the Escalade, H2 hummer, and the Silverado SS.
@@jacobauld565 No sir. Your data on when the lq9 was offered and in what vehicle is correct. However, the lq4 was replaced with an lq9 in my truck in 2014 due to an oiling issue. The guy then developed an exhaust leak. Someone told him it was “the dreaded GM lifter tick” Disgusted, he sold it to me (a neighborhood guy) for next to nothing. That truck is still going strong with the junkyard lq9
So you scammed him and wasn't honest is what you're saying?
@@Skrooge303 How did I scam him? He was selling it for $350… and thats what I paid him
@@intheshoptv you took advantage in a major way.learn to be a better person
The newest 5.3L we have is a 2002 Yukon XL, wife’s transportation, I love my 1993 Chevy Silverado pickup truck with 5.7L. Thanks for what your doing
anything with a 5.3 pre AFM is a keeper....lol
I’ll tell ya another way to check for those exhaust leaks if you can’t see any traces of carbon tracks, works well, spray those areas with soapy water with squirt bottle, then take a shop vac and reverse the airflow, put it at the tail pipe assuming you don’t have any large exhaust leaks underneath, and you will see bubbles/foaming between the head and manifold, it works very well too
Awesome tip!
Thanks I'll try this
This showed up in my feed and I'm surprised to find I have the same bad bolt broken in same spot! Thanks for putting this out there.
Glad it helped ! Thanks for watching !
@@WrenchingWithKenny YER THE DEWD I WANNA HAVE BEER WITH, BUT MY LIVER SAID NO!!! SORRY ABOUT THAT BRO
Nothing replaces wisdom. Nothing adds to wisdom more than experience. Our greatest gift are older citizens who’ve had a lifetime of experiences.
Came across your video.straight to the point ..my 5.3
Had broken bolts and a bad lifter ,
Worned cam lobe.
Retired tech now..thanks for the help.
I appreciate your kind words. Do we ever retire from wrenching? Thanks for watching 🔧
No I can't stop.my close friends keep having problems on their autos..66 yrs old now .I keep trying to solve other mechanics
Screw ups.nice to hear from you.
Have a God bless day
What were the symptoms your 5.3 was giving with the broken bolts and bad lifter? I have a 2009 5.3 V8 Silverado that makes a knocking noise when I first turn it on, then it goes away after a little bit of driving. Thank you
Just want to thank you for this video sir. You diagnosed my truck for me. I had 2 broken but got them out and its all good now. Thank you!
@mattdizzy5453 I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching. Keep wrenching 🔧 Kenny
When looking for noises, it's handy to use a piece of tubing--large vacuum hose is good for this--you stick one end in (or close to) your ear, and then probe around to where the sounds becomes louder. It's an easy way to pinpoint the location of the sound. I have this motor, and I was able to track a light knocking noise to the . . . fuel pump, using this vacuum hose method. In the case of this video, it would sure beat finding an exhaust leak with your hand!😱
Yes I have a stethoscope. I used a long screwdriver putting it on parts of machinery with the end of the handle pressed in my ear to isolating bearing noises on processing equipment.
@@greybone777 Yes! Another favorite method.👍
Thank You for this.....2009 Chev 5.3l.... I knew it wasnt lifters......bottom end, passenger side...loud at start up.....went away after 10 min driving......Manifold was loose AF!.....Just air being pushed with the combustion.....Great video!
How do you know if it is lifters? My 2009 5.3L Silverado makes a little knocking sound when I first start it up, different from the noise in this video, but it goes away after I drive for a little bit. I just ordered a Range AFM device to try to help the problem.
@@holyspiritandkevin8441
When my lifters were bad, the sound was more consistent, got a bit softer as the engine warmed up, but never really goes away completely. Plus, you can really hear it under the valve covers if you open the hood at start up. The manifold problem can really be heard in the wheel wells.
Wow, if he does his own work, I'm shocked that he couldn't find THAT. He's lucky to have you fixing it for him Kenny!
I know right, sounds like oil change is bout all he can do
I do work on my own truck and I couldn't find it either. I can guess that you will claim to do work on your own truck. Hiring someone else to do the work while you watch what the mechanic does is not the same as working on your truck. I can't believe I didn't think to look for carbon building up at the mounting surface. I'm subscribing. Don't worry Thomas I was only representing the fella that had enough intelligence to hire this guy. I wasn't going to let an opportunity like this one too get away
I do work on my own truck and I couldn't find it either. I can guess that you will claim to do work on your own truck. Hiring someone else to do the work while you watch what the mechanic does is not the same as working on your truck. I can't believe I didn't think to look for carbon building up at the mounting surface. I'm subscribing. Don't worry Thomas I was only representing the fella that had enough intelligence to hire this guy. I wasn't going to let an opportunity like this one too get away
@@Savantrez - I was trained by a Chief Mechanical Officer who once told me in the 70's that the three most important diagnostic tools I have are:
1. My Eyes
2. My Ears
3. My Nose
He was right!
Kenny is a great mechanic and you'll enjoy subscribing to his content. And yes, I was a mechanic before I was hired to the railroad. I also did work on my own vehicles, and I was an instructor that had worked my way up through the ranks to teach railroad mechanics how to repair and maintain $750,000 diesel locomotive engines nationwide. The whole fleet. That kept me pretty busy and life flew by, so I left auto mechanics for 40 years and now that I'm retired, I still like to wrench. However, a lot has changed in 40+ years to catch up on!
Thank Goodness For Kenny and TH-cam!
Bruh soon as I heard it I Knew it Had to be an exhaust problem and I've only been a mechanic for 7 years
I'm amazed these vids still pop up; these are known issues with LS for the last 20 years. Ticks are rarely ever lifters in the LS or cams (99 to 06/07). They are generally pushrods having drilled out the rocker arms or sheared off exhaust manifold bolts(almost always the very front or very rear bolts). Probably 90% of ticks in the Gen III motors. 08 and up add the DoD/AFM failures to those tick sources. This engine also seems to have a lot of piston slap(likely aluminum block, which transmits that sound better) but while annoying it's a non-issue.
@@jason3211 But it's still the factory rockers. Pull the driver side rockers and look at the cup the pushrod rides in. It should be a polished divot the size of the pushrod end. If it's enlarged, deepened and/or looks more like a brushed surface than polished, and your pushrod ball looks more like an egg, there's your issue.
Thank you so much Sir!!!! After so much searching and countless estimates that i got, most in the thousands $$ your diagnosis was 100% accurate. I had 3 broken bolts, costing me only $300.00 labor,bolts, extraction and gasket. The muffler shop mechanic only took him 2 1/2 hours and now my truck it sounds amazing.
Thank you so much Sir!!!!
I am lucky and still drive a 2004 Silverado with the 5.3l back when GM made good 5.3l engines. I would not pay my hard earned money on any domestic made vehicle right now. If I had to buy a new truck I would get a Ram. I know they have their Lifter/Camshaft issues, but near as bad as GM. Ford Eco-Boost engines are really hit or miss. Real crap shoots you either get a good one or a bad one. I had a bad 2015 Ford Fusion for my wife and planned on buying a GM made vehicle to trade it in on and my buddy that is a GM service tech warned me and said just don't do it go buy a Toyota or Honda these new direct injected engines are very problematic. Domestic cars are designed to last just until the warranty goes out then they start failing. He had replaced 3 engines in Trail Blazers that month. We got a Toyota and man are we glad we did. As far as trucks are concerned they are all a crap shoot now. They charge you 60-90 grand and put a crap warranty on them. For as much money as they are selling them for you should have a warranty that goes to 200k miles IMO.
I agree . I'm not a fan of the Toyota trucks at all . Had to go with a friend on a road trip in his 19 Tundra Diamond Edition . Beautiful truck . But I swear , a Wrangler would have had a better ride . After 6 hours , I couldn't stand it anymore. Totally turned me off to Toyota. Honda doesn't make a truck . They make a front wheel drive Pilot ElCamino ... Barely hold a full cooler without bottoming out . I'm not a Nissan fan , however , they make a darn good truck nowadays. The ram is also good . I worked for Chrysler for 22 years. The trucks driven aggressively, never had cam or lifter issues ... The ones driven like an old lady going to church , those ate camshafts .
Thanks for watching !!
I feel the same way I have an 2011 with 5.3 so far so good I disabled the afm system with a programmer it's got 200k on it so far knock on wood no issues so far I also have a 2001 with an 8.1 has 330 k miles but needs a new Trans I'm keeping it around just in case I need it no way I'm paying today prices especially for the junk they are building today
06 Z71 suburban and it runs circles around my wife’s 08 Suburban, and my Uncles 2019 Denali XL. Bought it from the dealer brand new and only problem I had to this very day of ownership was the left side wheel bearing blew out coming home from work, weekend fixed both sides and it still runs circles around any of these newer 5.3’s!
@@heresjohnny5808 You are lucky there are plenty of legit issues with the 5.3l engines when they changed from cast Iron blocks and added active fuel management. 2005 and older are the best IMO. Look at the engine failures they have now on the trucks and their cars. It
s so bad right now with the Eco-Tec engines there are none to replace the engines that fail. Its that bad right now. Car Wizard has some good videos on that very thing. I am glad you did not have the issues others had man you missed the bullet:P
I have a 2000 SILVERADO 5.3, it is a beast with 300,000 miles. It was used in the early days to pull a 28’ fifth wheel. Now it’s a daily driver.
Yea, that’s common. Ls exhaust manifold bolts are just too small diameter. They need changed before you hit 100k miles or they’re likely to start breaking in my experiences. Unless you throw some arps on. Another common “tick” is that crush gasket on the drivers side exhaust manifold (pretty sure it’s the driver side) , they go out around the same time the exhaust manifold bolts start going. If they start breaking, don’t take it to a shop and get got for about $2k cash. Throw the front end up on jack stands, remove the wheels and fender liners, and steering column section, (do the following work from the fender area) remove the headers. already have the new gaskets, bolts and thread locker, and spare nuts, something like 1/2” and 3/8”. Even if the bolts are not broke flush and stick out, go ahead and weld a nut on it, and run it out with a little patience, you’ll get everyone of them, with ease and no problems. When putting everything back together, do NOT put anti seize on the exhaust manifold bolts, they WILL back out after a couple months and cause another exhaust leak, instead use high strength or removable high strength loctite or vibratite. If you go arp, you should be sat for the life of the vehicle, if you go with gm or other brand, change them before you hit the next 100k miles and you won’t have to deal with this again (or before what ever mileage interval you just when they started breaking. Flux core welders do work for this repair too, just turn the wire speed down and heat up, put some heat in the weld
100% correct. I posted a similar comment on L series 5.3 exaust manifold issues. Looks like we are all on the same page.
I switched from my beloved Valvoline to the OEM GM oil and I was amazed how much more quiet the engine ran when idling. Night and day difference.
I hear ticking when I'm by a wall or a drive thru. And I always used valvoline full synthetic. I'm definitely going to switch and hope that can't bring the tick down. It's not loud like this vehicle but you can hear it when I'm by a wall
@@gerardocontreras9547 Funny you should mention. I could hear that ticking every day after work when I'd pull up by the wall at the drive up at the coffee place. When I switched to GM Dexos, it made a big difference. I hear it's made by Mobil 1. Good luck.
Ps my dads name is Kenny as well n he’s a great mechanic but he is battling cancer so I just need to show him his daughter can do this !!! Thank you :)
I thought it was the lifters on my Silverado and I found the EXACT same thing in the same spot thanks to this video.
Very common issue on those engines. Have repaired a ton for the same problem. I usually just weld a nut to the stud if broken off inside block. Firewall bolts are always the ones to break. I don't understand why GM hasn't corrected this well known defect.
GM PISSES ME OFF THESE DAYS...
Because people continue to buy their trucks. As much as I love the look of the Chevys, they don’t make em like they used to.
My 2001 Suburban had a mysterious tick which was emanating from the #1 plug wire, but would quit when I lifted up on the wire. Turns out the spark plug had loosened up and was arcing on the head. Took it back to the shop that had installed the plugs and they replaced three plugs, fixed it.
Just wanted to make a comment thanking you dearly thought I had a destroyed 5.3L from a 2003 Silverado was puzzled on what to do with it and found your lovely video made my headache go away almost instantly after looking at the exhaust!!
I'm glad I could help. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
That's a bingo with the exhaust leak. I bought a low mileage Chevy Tahoe from the auction claiming it had engine noise. Got it cheap. Upon examination discovered a major misdiagnosis. Two broken exhaust studs driver side rear. Took a stethoscope to the engine itself and it was quiet as a church mouse. Oil pressure good. long story short I bought a beautiful 2016 low mileage Chevy Tahoe for $3,000 at auction, replaced the two exhaust studs and the vehicle runs and drives perfect. Exhaust leaks are very common problem on L Series Chevrolet engines. Hope you all get a great steal yourselves out there, but make sure it is an exhaust leak because some 5.3's have lifter issues and they don't come out from the top either.
What are the signs of lifter issues? I have a 2009 Silverado 5.3 V8 that makes a kind of knocking sound when I start it up, then goes away after I drive for a little bit. Thanks
@@holyspiritandkevin8441 Lifters make a ticking sound. A knock could be anything from a rod bearing, loose torque converter bolts, bad piston wrist pin, even a bad harmonic balancer. You need to check your oil pressure warmed up. Not cold. If its below 25psi or lower warmed up it may be a rod or main bearing. I would use a stethoscope and listin around the engine to target the noise. If your oil pressure is a little bit low, try putting a heavier viscosity in it, and if the knock calms down, you most likely have a main or rod bearing issue. There is also an O-ring behind the timing cover that goes on to the oil pump assy. and they are known to go bad and cause the engine to lose oil pressure and could cause engine noise when it's cold. When the engine heats up the O-ring expands and oil pressure goes up. Your engine could be starving for oil from a bad o-ring. Hope all this helps but very hard to diagnose a problem without actually looking at the vehicle and listening to it.
Good luck!
It's just bingo.
I owned an 2002 Silverado with the 5.3L, and when my ticking issue arose, it was the catalytic converter. It was actually covered under warranty at a Chevrolet dealership. Not sure if GM ever issued any bulletins or recalls about the issue. I was actually surprised that I didn't have to pay anything.
Happened to me as well, but it could very well be this as well. Mine is now coming back.
Well, the sound was different. It had two separate ticks going on - completely different than a lifter tick.
Auto Repair is 90% diagnostics and 10% changing parts. Kenny knows how to diagnose so he is a golden mechanic.
I used to find exhaust noises with a piece of heater hose. Put one end to your ear and run the other end around the manifold. When you get to the leak you will know without any doubt.
i could tell as soon as you started it that it was an exhaust leak. good to know about that particular problem
Yup, same here. Wasn't surprised at all & knew that sound instantly. It's a super common problem on many, many engines nowadays, especially pickup trucks with V8 & V10 engines.
Stopped the video at 0:40 to comment because I believe I already know. It's the infamous broken exhaust manifold bolt. Just the way it was described that once the engine warms up the noise goes away. I have a Caddy Escalade EXT (2008) that had this issue. I used one of those quick bolt on fixes and it has been great for 3+ years. Now...the GM V8 does have a habit of ticking like a lifter. I have owned several GM trucks dating back to the early 1990's and the truck I had with this issue was a 1996 Silverado 5.3. It was not the exhaust because it would tap all day. In the early motors I believe they had a valve train issue. I will click play and edit only if I was wrong.
Did not edit because I was right. But wanted to verify my engine. My truck is an Escalade EXT 2008 with the 6.2 and the broken exhaust boat was the driver side rear bolt which made putting on the bolt on "squeeze" fix tough because your hand is being smashed between the back of the head and the fire wall. But this usually happens to the same spot no matter the head position. The heads are identical from left to right. So if you have this issue on the passenger side it will likely be the front most bolt which is much easier to deal with.
GM cheaping out on metal quality is the real reason for this. Never used to happen this soon (Or in most cases, at all) on the older 350 / 5.7 engines.
I have a 2019 Chevy express van I drive for work, the cat bangs against the cross member and has cracked the pipe where it is welded to the flange, these new vehicles are junk
The 2016 GMC Sierra Denali I own with the 5.3 is the most problematic vehicle I’ve ever owned. I have the ticking in the drivers side cold and it’s the purge valve by the throttle body. The passenger side is notorious for leaking, especially after GM does the AFM lifter failure repair and re uses the original bolts. Nice job!
Thank you !! Appreciate the input !!
I just replaced my manifold bolts with the oem, since the lifter was replaced in July. Im glad I saw this video, I’d be into more of a headache. Happy Holidays!
@@dudebud72 Glad the video helped !! Thanks for watching!
Wow. Makes me that much more comfortable with the van I have on the way to me to be delivered with an exhaust leak. I won’t be thinking the engine is no good. Thank you
Those ls are notorious for the front and rear bolts on the exhaust manifolds breaking off. I've been thru 3 spools of wire to date removing these for people.
Thank you for posting this video. This is EXACTLY what is happening with my GMC Sierra (same bolt, even). Your video was very helpful in understanding what was going on and I appreciate your followup video on how to do the repair.
My friend had an 09 5.3. He had a tick that ended up being the camshaft. Supposedly the camshafts on those years were hardened 2 different times causing a few of the lobes to get wiped out. One lobe was obvious to see with your eyes.
He had a lifter fail and rode on it too long. Almost always what gets those
Easy fix, part store sells a bracket just for this problem that bolts onto the back of the motor and tightens to the face of the exhaust manifold. Same thing will happen to the other side as well, they make a braket for that as well. Of course could you could go the expense route if u like, which if you have the 706 heads you will be doing anyways. Good luck!
I added the brackets to my 2006 ESV (6.0). Worked great!
the brackets are absolute best fix for these,and they make them for inner and outer cylinders.
I had a ticking noise on my 17 Tahoe. Dealer caused so many excuses. I found another TH-cam video where it was the vacuum pump on the front lower drivers side of the engine. Sounded just like a lifter or exhaust leak. Finally got the dealer to change the pump and quiet as a mouse.
Thats awesome !!
I was thinking I had a lifter tick and was looking at Afm delete kit. I read this comment and went to check the vacuum pump and I do believe it could be the pump. I replaced the pump about 3 months before GM recalled them. Kenny is there any way I can definitely rule out the lifter?
The vacuum pump has a stretch drive belt on it. you can attempt to take the belt off the pump if you can figure out a way of how to get the belt back on the pump or what I did was I used a microphone and put it on the back of the pump and you can clearly hear the ticking coming from there.
@@fiero880 , great info !! Thank you !!
@@tommycrump8525, like fiero880 said , remove the belt on the pump . Even though you replaced the pump , it could be faulty . Check all the manifold bolts and make sure none are broken . You can get a mechanics stethoscope at Harbor Freight to place on the valve cover and vacuum pump to try and pinpoint where the noise is coming from.
Stumbled onto your channel I will be watching your info
This is a common problem with Chevys over the last 20 years. Every single one I’ve owned, from new to used, eventually had this exhaust leak. I’ve had it in the 4.3 V6 as well as the 5.3
I heard the tell-tale ting ting of the exhaust leak the moment the engine cranked. Heard this many times on many different vehicles.
Ya gotta love these 5.3’s
I have a 2000 LM7 5.3, I’ve had it 21 years. It’s got 207K on it and I just changed the plugs and wires. At 100K the plugs were in perfect condition and showed no wear. So when I did the recent plug replacement I got a good look at the exhaust manifold bolts. The heads of them look like chocolate chips 😂
I’m expecting an exhaust leak sooner or later. And I’ll address that when it is needed.
Unfortunately my truck will probably crumble into a dust pan before that happens.
Gotta love the northeast….
Great videos 👍
I believe more times than not I have seen people's "ticking" to be exhaust leaks. Otherwise... ignition issues, bad pulley bearings, intake leaks, a light tick sound from injectors and of course a loose spark plug (exhaust/system leak). More times than not it is repairable without major work.
I had ticking in my 63 Chevy Impala convertible 283 54 years ago I would adjust the valves and in no time it would start again ....Chevy has a history of ticking.
You would think as many years as this engine design has been around you would think GM could figure out you need bigger manifold bolts and possibly a redesigned manifold. I think every single one I've ever worked on had atleast two of the back bolts brake off, anywhere from 40k to 200k miles.
Nope, it’s a cast iron and aluminum cooling issue. Bigger bolts or a different manifold design using the same materials will do nothing. Compare the hemi cast iron exhaust manifolds to the srt cast steel exhaust manifolds. One breaks the bolts the other doesn’t nearly as much.
All said and done the root cause of the problem is the carbon and sludge build up and also the engine vibration. Both put together will have effect on the exhaust connection ,bolts, and other things . Best of the best bolts will give in to such conditions
@@joshkrause2977 : Bingo Josh! You'll notice any engine that has a steel head and a steel manifold doesn't have this problem, arguably... ever.
The true problem is that manufacturers have been using aluminum cylinder heads for about 40 years now, and then they bolt steel manifolds to them. To put it rather bluntly, it's just freaking stupid.
Exhaust manifold fasteners can only take so much heat cycling and shear stress before they fail. That's the reality.
If they'd use stainless steel studs instead of plain bolts,I'm sure alot of these exhaust related issues would go away ..
Designed to fail, keeps you buying new
Ticking noise is very common when sitting and idling for a few min, main reason I have found and fixed 3 trucks so far is the oil pickup tub seal.I dealt with the issue for 2 years before discovering this. Fixed it 3 years with new seal and hasn’t done it since. I tried to find help from GM techs and they couldn’t even help me. New oil pick up seal and oil pan gasket and not another embarrassing drive through experience at Burger King since I did it
Our 5.3 engines are known for that bolt. They have a work around adapter to fix that on the ones you can't get to.
Hey brother do you have a link to that or what it is exactly called... i looked and both my rear bolts on driver and passenger side is gone 😆
@@NORCALPYRO_ Search for gm exhaust manifold clamp. Dorman makes one that bolts to the back of the head and then has a bolt that pushes against the manifold when you tighten it.
@@itsdavex2 thanks will do appreciate it. Also do you happen to habe the part number you used theres multiple ones😬
4:20 BINGO!!!!!!!!!!!!! My rattling noise comes from the passenger rear area of the engine!!! Mine doesn't sound as loud as yours and it seems to go partially away after a couple of minutes. I just drove it over two hundred miles with no problem, but I think the noise is worse after the trip.
Last year I had the exhaust manifold removed on that side because I saw that, three bolts where broken. It made no noise, however. I had the bolts and gasket replaced!!! Still, no noise.
The noise actually Does sound like a few coils are ticking! Thank you for this video. I really thought it was the rear main bearing, $$$, but I thought, why would it be from only one side? Well, just a thought checked it again. It's not the manifold and not the bearing. It seems to ch a new location. Now it seems like it is in the area of the right rear passenger area under the car. I ran it for one minute and it was very loud and then it stopped completely. I turned it off and restarted it and it came back quieter. I think something could be loose in thr exhaust the tightens up when it heats up. Any thoughts on that?
Most mechanics just throw parts at the problem because Thinking and troubleshooting is so much harder.
Case in point. The directional signal and emergency flasher don't work. Change the flasher, right? Wrong! The fuse was good, but it had corrosion on it. I scrapped it off and they came back on.
Another case in point. The P4020 code for the cat came on and the computer wouldn't get the car ready for emissions. The problem was the need for a Drive Cycle after the battery had gone dead for three days and I installed a new one.
Another case in point. The entire interior of my Tahoe would go electrically dead while driving. I mean, everything electrical was dead but the truck would still drive. When a mechanic had worked inside the dash, they didn't put everything back in its proper place. There is a small Black Box above your left shin that snaps into a galvanized bracket. It was just floating inside it and moving around and every time I made a hard left turn, the car would go dead and sometimes stay dead. When I made a sharp right turn, the power came back on. Something must be moving! I found the loose box and snapped it into the holder and the problem never returned.
A few exhaust studs on my 97 f150 looked like rivets when I changed them out. They rusted out so bad I had to grind them down flush with the manifold to get the manifolds off, then heat up every stud on it to pull them out of the heads. The manifolds themselves were so bad, there was no reusing them, they had to be replaced. Out of all that though, they never leaked although it was getting there. Now with new studs and manifolds, it's good to go for years to come. The one noise I can't stand is leaky manifolds.
Sounds alot like what I had to deal with when I was living in NY. Thanks for watching !!
Bro single handedly solved an issue I’ve been having for years. THANK YOU from the bottom of my heart man.
I'm only at 1:05-have not skipped forward, and I already know what it is.. Broken exhaust bolt on #7 allowing a tapping or exhaust leak sound when COLD.. Once it warms up, the exhaust manifold expands and the tapping goes away.. #7 on these engines ALWAYS runs hotter than the other 7 and the expansion from heat, and contraction when cold, eventually break the head off the bolt at the rear most location on the drivers side-cylinder #7.. It is SO common. I run a transmission shop and almost every single vehicle that comes in with an LS engine is missing at minimum 1 exhaust manifold bolt-if not multiple bolts. Update.. that is an LT motor not, and LS! I still got it right though! I'm at 4:58 now..
I'm gonna call you Number Seven.
I knew what it was before you started it. Mine does the same and I’m missing studs. I just put in those easy adapters on
Congrats. You differentiated an exhaust leak from internal engine noise
Loose spark plug also could also cause that squeaking noise. That was my immediate thought when I heard the squeak.
When I do lifters I always replace manifold bolts. I hate when people don’t do that.
A lady I worked with bought a brand new Mercury Mountaineer around 2000 or 2001 and I drove it once a few months after she got it and it did the exact same thing, but I think it was on the driver's side. I can't say for sure but I think it had the 5.0l V8. She had only just started hearing the noise a few days earlier and hadn't really given it much thought but I told her I suspected it was the exhaust manifold not being sealed to the engine. A few days later she had taken it to the dealer and sure enough, they found a couple of loose bolts and fixed it under warranty.
I knew right when you started the engine what it was. The high pressure injectors will cause a ticking too which everyone says it's normal. I have the 4.3 v6 in my 14 Silverado.
Same thing I hear in my 15gmc with 4.3
Yes, but an injector tick is a much different sound than an exhaust leak tick. A trained mechanic knows this. Average Joe doesn't.
@@turbodiesel4709 what causes an injector tick and how can I make sure thats what im hearing?
@@victorcarreon7800 : Injector "ticking" is both a common & normal sound made by the electronically operated poppet valve inside each injector each time it's electronically "fired", on common-rail high pressure fuel injection systems.
You can put a long screwdriver, a mechanic's stethoscope, or even a length of hose, to any injector body & to your ear while engine is running in order to amplify & hear the tick sound.
Some side notes pertaining to exhaust manifold leaks:
On a cool engine, soapy dish detergent water dispensed via a spray bottle to suspected gasket and/or crack areas also works well to find exhaust manifold leaks.
Also, visually inspect for blown out exhaust port gaskets & exhaust soot trails from such areas.
Most common exhaust manifold leaks come from burnt and/or blown out gaskets, caused by broken/rotted off manifold bolts.
Most common issue is if not lifters and after having sat is problems with exhaust manifold leaking! Very common issue with the ls, and dodge hemi's. Both my wifes yukon denali with the 6.2 ls and my dad's HD 2500 Silverado have this exact issue. The problem lies with the head being aluminum and the exhaust manifold being cast iron. The two different materials expand at different rates and causes flexing that break the bolts, or even crack the manifold.
There is a special bracket that is available that bolts on & holds the manifold in tight. I've had good results with them.
Shoot us a link on here.
Where is the link man come on don’t blue ball us
It took me about 3 seconds to identify the problem it's a manifold leak !
Just had mine fixed. I thought it was the lifters also but turned out to have a cracked flywheel!
My 13 RAM does the same thing. Been doing it forever.
Broken exhaust manifold bolts. I knew where you were going from the start of the video.
Thanks for being an honest mechanic
I have a 2019 Silverado 5.3l and stopped using 0w20. I went to 10w30 and much of the tick and tap noises went away. I have about 119,000 miles on the truck, all highway, and I've done every oil change myself. If you have a stealer doing your oil changes, make sure they don't try to sneak you out the door with 6 qts of oil in an 8 qt system. Yeah, I do all my own oil changes. I used to drive it in 7th gear to hold out all of the valve timing and emissions crap, but I installed a Pulsar LT unit. One of the best items I've every purchased for one of my trucks. The truck runs great so far.
They make a clamp kit for these that uses existing holes in the block and head to push the manifold up tight to the head. Works great saves having to drill out broken bolts.
who makes the kit, what do you call it or where do you get it, thanks
??? Info please
@@JerryLeeMac Dorman Products or Kral Auto Parts
Thank you so much this helped so much you know your stuff i just bought my moms tahoe from auction she just passed sunday and i do not want to have to put alot of money into it definatly saved me alot of time and money we need more youtubers like you
So serious man such a life saver now im subscribed and noticications are on
I build alot of these motors, ive never had the after market bolts break!
I have an 01 Suburban with 320,000 miles and it's NEVER had a ticking issue ever. Be certain the oil is full. I never lose any oil in this one - I can drive a few thousand miles and the oil stays full and, also, the use synthetic and now I need to replace the headliner, but the engine is excellent. These 5.3 engines are great!!!
My mother has an 08 suburban with a 5.3. We had lifter failure, and a few other issues which lead to a total engine replacement (not my suggestion) and after 20k, I was driving it, changed the oil. All was well, 50 mile drive home after, and it sounded like lifters again. But after using a stethoscope on both heads, I couldn't determine a metallic noise comming from the valve train. Checked coils and they appeared to be fine as well. Now I'm wondering if this is our issue. Problem is it doesn't change once it gets to op temperature. Thanks for this, now I feel dumb and have something to trace down now lol.
WOW..... I have this exact same issue, when the guy that repaired my transmission gave me my truck back, that noise was prevalent. Beautifull, Thanks
GM put out a TSB stating the noise is the piston rings hitting the carbon build up on the top of the cylinder.
this is how I got my free L83 for my c10. It was pulled under warranty by the dealer and they were just gonna toss it.
Similar thing happened with my wrangler with the Mopar/amc 4.0 inline 6, except it was the "windage tray" that sits above the rocker arms. I had pushed it down slightly with an oversized funnel when I was changing oil. Just enough so when it was cold it would touch but warm would be just fine. Figured it out by dropping and Alan key below the oil fill cap and lifting up on the tray while it was ticking, immediately stopped. As you showed, take your time and don't jump to conclusions.
Wow !! Good for you !! Years back , I wound up with a 96 LT1 long block from a WS6 Trans Am . The customer was hearing minor piston slap but was such a pain that GM decided to warranty the engine to shut them up !! I did the job and the new motor was exactly the same lol !!
I have a 02 Silverado with a 5.3 and have 575,000 miles. Blowing a little blue smoke on startup. Ticked since I've bought it new at start up an sitting long times and idling
I got a 99 1500 5.3 with 255,000.. Thing runs great!!! I love that truck.. I sure hope i get 555,000 out of mine!
Educational
How many transmissions have you replaced for those miles 3 or 4?
@@anthonynicholich9654 Same transmission
@@anthonynicholich9654 replaced first one at 250,000 then the another at 575,000. Currently on a good used one that came out of a wrecked Tahoe. The second one was bought as a remanufactured from Chevrolet and just lost 2nd and 4th.
great video. sound and looking is all we had I started in 1974 working in mechanic shop. today they rely too much on a machine to diagnose their work.
i got rid of my ticking on my 05 5.3 just by changing to 10w40 conventional Castrol GTX oil with K&n filter. Been 3 years now with no tick and better oil pressure. Engine has 290K
@@bretfeeney1072 didn't you read?? Been over 3 years without any ticking. Through winter, summer
I thought this sounds like my truck and it was a broken exhaust manifold bolt. I replaced the bolts with studs on all three of my trucks, Best $50 I ever spent on parts.
I have a chevy silverado V8 4.8 it tick 3 to 4 minutes after starting. 15 to 20 minutes later it stops. After that it runs extremely quiet. Until I let cool down it won't tick. Do you think it's my exhaust manifold bolt?
that noise was way past a "ticking" sound. my 5.3 ticks like a time bomb but that is the sound it makes. a "ticking" just like a clock. that 5.3 sounded like a tractor. i agree, if he does his own work he should have seen that right off the bat.
I was pretty much going off what he told me when he dropped it off. It was hot and sounded smooth. He really thought it was a camshaft because of everything he's read online. He's happy I found it wasn't a cam. He's actually bringing it back in two weeks for me to fix it
Mine ticks like a time bomb as well, what does it mean?
I’d pay you to work on my truck. You’re super knowledgeable.
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching 🔧
I had that same engine. I noticed it making that sound one day after I pulled out a spark plug and threw a fistful of sand into the cylinder. I never did figure out what caused it.
I've recently started to keep a closer eye on my truck now that I'm getting rather high in the miles. I am worried that it could be a lifter being that I had a misfire about a week ago. I immediately changed my spark plugs that night. So far, so good. However I have been getting a lot of gas fume smells in my cabin, especially at a stop. I asked Uncle Google and it said it could be an exhaust issue. I looked under the hood after I got home from work and could hear a ticking noise. I thought maybe it was something to do with the spark plugs or coils. But after watching this video, it seems more apparent that it's a broken exhaust manifold bolt. But I'm going to bring my truck in for an inspection regardless.
Awesome work sir. I was having the same problem.
FYI for people tracking down exhaust leaks. Connect the exhaust side of your shop vacuum to your tail pipe to pressurize exhaust, then spray soapy water on the flanges, joints etc. No more burnt fingers.
I think id be more worried with one that DOSENT tick
Thank you so much! I have the same exact symptoms and I got to looking at my exhaust manifold and I have a broken bolt on the back side and sure enough exhaust leak! You’re the man bro!
Good old heat expansion and contraction
Older 5.3’s had a cold start tick/knock it was piston slap but since they started making these 4.8 5.3 6.0 engines they have always had problems with the exhaust manifold bolts breaking causing exhaust leaks and thank god there is so much room and they are so easy to fix unlike fords! Whenever I have a 4.6 5.4 6.8 Ford truck come in for exhaust manifolds the customers always get shocked at the price and ask if I can do any better and I always tell them to be honest I don’t even want to do the job and if anything it’s gonna cost more money it depends on how much time I have into getting the broken studs out. They say why wouldn’t you want to do it? I say they are a pain in the ass to do there is no room so if you want it done this is the price you either want it done or u don’t.
I usually turn down the Fords honestly . I have soo much work that I get to pick and choose . But when I do decide to do them , I get the same thing from the customers , "Why soo much" ? Pretty much the same answer I give , Its a PIA job .
Thanks for watching !!
I recently watched another TH-camr doing this on an older 5.3, seems like a royal pain without a welder
My '07 Classic 4.8 only ticks after the motor has been on for about 3-5 minutes. But it will not tick with every drive. I had broken exhaust bolts. Replaced both manifolds, hardware, and gaskets. Tick still there but not with every drive. The only consistency is that it will only tick after the motor has been running for about 3-5 minutes. It will go sometimes for two weeks and not tick at all. Then it will start up again, skip one day, tic the next then skip day or two and then tick the next several times the motor is on but only after about 3-5 minutes. The times the motor does tick, it fades in about 3-5 minutes of the motor being on, ticks for about 3-5 minutes then fades away and purrs like a kitten. Like I said, the only consistent part is the tick (if it ticks at all) only happens after the motor has been on for 3-5 minutes. Then ticks for 3-5 minutes and then fades away and purrs like a kitten.
Hey I have a 06 chevy silverado 4.8 it tick once started up for 3 to 5 minutes but goes away once engine is warmed up 15 to 20 minutes later. U think it's a exhaust manifold bolt?
@@gruntty2005 Could be. But I replaced both exhaust manifolds and all hardware, tick still happens. So in my case it is most likely a lifter problem.
Heating and cooling isn't the problem . The problem is GM is to cheap to use proper bolts. They want to save 5 dollars per engine.
It's not hard to extract broken bolts from the aluminum heads with a welder..just takes some time.
You're right, it a quality issue. Possibly a thickness issue too.
It isn't just GM..its a hemi problem and triton problem..40 yrs of doing this crap..just retired