My brother just bought a 04 Chevy with the 4.8 and it has 270k he has a 93 Chevy 4.3 with 337k the transmission went out and I have a 96 chevy 5.7 with 327k
My dad sadly left us with his 2000 Yukon XL he paid over 26k for it and it still runs amazing only thing he changed was the 4wd switch. Miss him but it runs great with only 170k miles 👍
Juilo Garcia. It's just getting broke in, especially if you have the 5.3 liter engine. My 04 Avalanche has over 400K miles, it runs as good as the day I bought it new. Sorry about the loss of your Dad.
Sorry about your dad but you did not lose him he is just ahead of you. After your purpose for being here is done you will go on to where he is. It is very hard for us that still have to complete our time here and can't see some of our loved ones but they can see us and we all do our time here and then move on so we will see them on the other side. God Bless you and your dad.
I had no idea of all this stuff. I have a 2001 Yukon XL. Going to change cabin air filter then start doing other stuff. Wish I'd known this stuff all along. I just saw a commercial for a replacement on tv. A whole new world has opened up in the last 30 min. 72 yr old lady here!
I’ve had 01,02,03,04 Yukon and the only problem I ever had was the instrument cluster going out. My 03 Silverado too. I’ve done nothing but maintenance to my vehicles. They all made it to 250,000+ miles with only tune ups. I barely replaced the original radiator on my 04 Yukon xl…did the water pump just because. I love these generation vehicles.
I had an on again, off again issue with my gauge cluster no working at all, Found a guy locally who does the custom led's for the cluster and took the cluster to him (very easy to remove, btw). while installing blue leds for me, he reflowed the entire board and i've had no more issues with the gauges. You probably have someone in your area that does the cluster repair. Just look on facebook marketplace.
I just bought a Yukon with a broken cluster and leaking water pump. The cluster had a resistor broken off at both pads. I soldered in a new one and it came back to life.
interesting choices here. As far as most common problems go the only thing i really agree with on this list is the intermediate shaft. Maybe knock sensors too. Id like to add a few of the problems i see most at the dealership where i work. In no particular order #1. Intake manifold & water pump gaskets going bad. #2. The brake lines rusting off #3. Parking brake shoe linings separating from the backing plates from never being used. #4. The instrument cluster lights burning out is more certain than death or taxes. #5. Heater core quick connectors leaking or breaking. #6. Door switch plates breaking away from the door panels. #7. Spare tire cable seizing up in the housing. #8. AC Compressors on early years. (still works just sounds like its going to explode) #9. Fuel pumps and fuel lines on the non flex fuel models. #10. Various evap system issues. #11. Cant forget the headlights/DRL lights filling with condensation! #12. Also cant forget the DRL bulb sockets melting from the factory bulbs drawing too much current. Overall these are all super easy problems that can be fixed on the cheap. Probably the best trucks ever built if you do your own repairs! Engines will literally outrun the frames in the long haul.
I agree with both the brake line and parking brake they happened on my 2005 yukon xl and I used to have a 2003 before that and on both the 2003 and 2005 I had the instrument cluster screw up and it made my prndl lights so dim I could barely see them at night with the dimmer on max but I had a buddy solder it on my 2005 and she is perfect again
Very helpful video for those that are not too familiar with Chevy trucks and SUVs. One additional issue that should have been mentioned is an issue that comes up from time to time when a message comes up on the cluster saying "Reduced Engine Power" and the vehicle won't accelerate beyond 5 mph. A very frustrating issue caused mostly by faulty electrical connectors in or around the throttle body.
Glad you added the "bonus" footage because that was EXACTLY my problem. I was trying to diagnose a P0530 code on my A/C "Pressure sensor circuit malfunction." Checked all of the connections on the compressor and high/low-pressure sensors and all of the a/c wiring that I could see. Checked fuses and swapped relays. No joy. Just happened to stumble onto your video. Thought no way in hell could anything be going on under the fuse panel but opened it to check for grounds, etc. There was a fluffy nest made out of what looked like home insulation material and six wires were completely chewed through! I have recently been getting other weird codes like multiple SRS airbag codes and random P0300 misfires. Will solder everything back together in the morning. Hopefully, this was the issue. THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
@@MrJbooker33 Sorry for the delay. Yes, by re-soldering the severed wires it fixed the Air Bag codes and restored power to the rear DVD player which I didn't even realize was not working. I now hear it going through a self-check when I start up the vehicle. Unfortunately, it didn't fix the P0530 A/C circuit malfunction. I think the PCM may have been damaged. Going to take it to a local Audio Installation shop that specializes in wiring troubleshooting. Stay tuned...LOL
Proud owner of a 2001 GMC Sierra 5.3L 2wd. Showing 525,000 miles at this time. My 1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L gave up after about 400,000 miles. I am pretty satisfied. From South Carolina.
Get u some Lasfit led 3157s. I got tired of replacing mine every 2 weeks and don’t go with other leds. Most burn out after a month lol. Lasfit makes a few where they’re tall and thin and dissipate heat well and I’ve had my drls now for almost 7 months!
That shit bugs the hell out of me, really gets my ocd going. I finally got tired of replacing bulbs & just put new sockets & 6000k led's in & have not had a problem since. But now im noticing it on virtually EVERY other gm truck that drives by. Good call 🤣👍
What are you surprised both bulbs don't burn out at the same time? That would be quite the anomaly if they did!! The issue is the fact they only illuminate when the vehicle is in gear, so you either need to get creative to see if they are burnt out yourself, or rely on someone else to let you know. Most of people driving these vehicles with one burnt out running light don't even know about it. In fact they would probably be surprised to hear it even has running lights!
Couple of years ago, i bought a 2000 GMC yukon, with little over 100,000 original highway miles. It had been stored away, due to title/ownership issues, that finally got squared. I gave it an extensive servicing and TLC. In two years, my SUV has taken us on unforgettable road trips and camping. The best investment, ever. Still going strong at 156,000 miles.
I loved and respected and understood your video. My 2003 Chevy Tahoe has had continual issues. I had everything done and still when it was hot outside and I ran the air conditioner for even 5 minutes the vehicle would drop to reduce engine power. You wouldn't believe the scam job I have received over and over and told by each guy, its the cadilatyic converter, which finally I had replaced. Guess what, that didn't solve the problem. I took it to O reilys, they ran a test, it cleared all the code issues. I had a harness of wires that didn't get out into the black plastic tube holder, We wrapped the wires and put in the black tube and so far for 2 weeks in high heat 90's and running the air conditioner I have had no issues. I have no mechanical knowledge, but It seemed to me that some temperature thing was kicking when it was hot and air conditioner on, I did not have these issues in the winter or weather under 70degrees. At least now I know I am not crazy and your video was excellent. The vehicle is running a little bit rough and it could be the sensors. The codes I got from oreilys scan, coincide with everything you talked about. Thank you Connie D.
FYI...2000-2006 Suburbans and Yukon XL, the rear left pocket above the jack is a perfect fit for the small plastic Harbor Freight 30cal ammo boxes. I made a small tool box with one and it sits perfectly there. Like it was designed to fit.
03 2500hd 6.0, still going strong at 400k. Tow 4k Lb work trailer daily. Knock sensors lasted to 395k. All my O2 sensors are original, did a wire chafe repair on front left at about 250k. All original steering shafts still at 400k. No issues. Abs sensors were and issue on off brand hub. Cracked wire. Go ACDELCO only hubs. Oil sending unit was leaking at about 250k, replaced. No more issues. Dash cluster went haywire at about 250k. Separated motherboard and resoldered numerous resistors and diodes as needed. Works great now. Blower motor wire harness almost caught fire at 300k. New harness upgrade from dealer and now won't go past 3 on the dial for safe measure (on 5 fan motor draws over 10 amps. F that). U-joint (front) at 325k. Water pump lasted to 350k. Radiator lasted to 325k. Hydroboost leaked from 100k to 400k, and just replaced that yesterday, still worked. Just leaked bad. 2 or 3 exhaust manifold bolts snapped at around 300k. Welded nut trick to remove. Ac Delco fuel pump about every 100k. Think that's about it. Amazing truck.
These vehicles are some of the most durable on the road,IMO. Ford and Dodge during the same years had engine woes,the triton v8, which early on was a great engine in 2V form especially the 4.6 , self changing spark plugs aside, was now a problematic 5.4 version,the 4.7 Chrysler is junk, the early Hemi was good IF the cam didn’t get eaten by a lifter.....but many did..The pre DOD GM LS engines were the best ever made,they were anvils of reliability . I am Fleet mechanic for a town municipality and my entire light duty fleet is 1500-3500 Chevy/GMCs,from 2003-2019 I have 13 of them. Most of our trucks are 2500/3500s all with the LQ4/and L96 6.0s. Nothing else on the road will run as long as reliably and as cheap or is as easy to work on. One thing you did leave out was the grounds...on the back of the drivers side front cab mount right under the drivers feet, there are several large grounds attached to the back of the mount tower, these are super important and they get corroded over time, I remove them clean the ground location to bare metal and cleanup all the terminals and apply fluid film at every oil change, these are ABS grounds ,electronic shift transfer case grounds as well as other various grounds... these are easy to get to while servicing the truck. I’m surprised you did t mention the oil cooler lines and here in NY the lower steering shaft u joint seizes up over time because of the road salt and the snow plows we put on them draw salt into the engine bay.....then there’s the last exhaust manifold bolt that snaps off....etc. Still the best trucks on the road!
If you have one of these year vehicles I would highly recommend replacing the coil packs. Did mine at 180k after doing the typical plugs and wires but had a slight miss that wasn’t throwing a code. Truck would shimmy slightly at a stop. Swap new ones on and it’ll run brand new
I got hit in rear qtr panel goin 65 7o on the freeway it sent me off road rolled my truck 3 times.... Ma and my Denali was hurt and broken up it landed on its wheels i started it back up ans actyually drove it to hhospital like 2 miles away Broke all my ribs ans broke my shoulder I miss that truck.... It saved my life💯💯
@Durango DeCarlo Sounds about par for the course. I'm not gonna make up some statistic about phones causing more accidents, but everytime so idiot starts coming over into my lane, or starts stopping on the middle of the freeway, or whatever just plain dumbassery I'm forced to witness and avoid... a phone was the culprit.
I just bought an 02 with 159000 on it it rides beautiful but that’s all people keep telling me how bad they rust I have some rocker panel rust under the back doors and some surface rust in the tailgate I need to get underneath see what’s going on but so far I love the truck
Helpful video. Owning a 2003 Yukon Denali XL, I can attest firsthand to all but the last challenge (electrical issues). And, thanks to your excellent videos, I've been able to make all five repairs (and many others) in my own garage! Love 1A Auto. Best repair videos on the web, hands-down, IMHO.
+prdr01 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I just bought one. Same model and Year as you. Black. It's doing the abs thing. Also when accelerating, at about 10mph, traction control activates. Gotta wait like 3-4 seconds or remove foot from gas pedal and then press again.
Ive owned a few GM trucks from this era. They really are solid, the only issues I had were the oil pressure sending unit ($50 fix) and the grounding issues ($40 fix). I would argue the transmission is a weak point as well but they are heavy trucks.
my 2000 silverado rusted badly. 84,269 miles and it went to the junk yard. shock towers gone. brake lines, gone. calipers rusted/leaking. rear bumper had massive rust holes. mechanic refused to work on it.
How to u prevent the rust, I live in Texas and my tahoe has 290,000 with only just slight surface rust. I am moving to Pittsburgh soon in august for school and I’ve heard the rust destroys everything. What can I do? I love this car so much I have 4K put aside just for a new engine an transmission when they go because I want to keep this car forever and rust is my biggest concern.
@@B_WithThe_C If you do not drive it in the salt you will be fine, but I have noticed with older vehicles that are brought up from the south and are driven in the winter they rust out quick.
Brake and fuel lines rust, the stepper motors in the cluster fail, sending units slowly fail from modern ethanol gas, the center console lid breaks, the tailgate handle breaks, front door speakers fail from water getting past the window seals, blend door actuators slowly fail and make an awful ticking noise in the dash. Not to mention the whole body rots away around you... Rockers, fenders, fuel door. But the engine will run on and on
With the exception of cluster failing, you hit the nail on the head with everything that voes wrong with these trucks. One exception the transmission fail at 200k if well taken care of.
Extremely accurate list. I'd add that the headliner starts to sag around the windows if you drive with them down often, a breeze gets under the edge and ends up pulling the headliner away from the adhesive over time. My center console is broken, the A/C ticks in the dash, the infamous running light constantly goes out, the rear hatch doesn't want to open some times, only my fuel and speedometer are accurate, but I've had it for 50K+ miles (sitting at 183k now) and it still runs like when I bought it.
Yes you're 100% correct on that but for some reason us GM lovers love the hell outta Chevy them engines will run forever if kept maintenence friend of minds still humming @ about 490×××
Lol same. My blend doors are ticking, rust hole in gas door (might as well take it completely off lol) and rockers need to be changed, and cab corners, and speakers, and gauge cluster steppers are taking a shit. All 4wd components replaced about 3 years ago, it’s the plow truck/spare vehicle. Do plan on replacing the cab corners and rockers before it eats any further into the cab.
Thanks, that just solved all my checks and balances. I had just replaced all 8 of my spark plugs on my 2006 GMC Sierra Classic. That didn't solve the issue. Now I feel more relaxed watching your video. New spark plugs and now I'll continue with my trouble shooting!! Video is very helpful!!!
As a mechanic i found your company a few years ago for parts .. great cost to value thank you for going further and making videos i hope they are as fun to make ...as they are great for others to follow, I truly appreciate 1aAuto
Excellent video easy to understand and to the point We live in buffalo ny all our life and our 2000 Silverado at 192000 runs like a champ. Yes I personally have replaced all the brake lines and fuel lines 4wd encoder motor. Had it 17yrs now very dependable. With all the crap out there new and used she’s a keeper Have not had a truck payment in 13yrs so I don’t mind wrenching on it or preventative maintenance every summer. At 64yrs young I’ve always loved my chevys 😎🇺🇸 Stay healthy U Tubers n D I Y folks in these trying times of ours 🇺🇸
Heck yeah! Love me a CHEVY! I own a 96 gmc c1500 5.7 with 139k and just bought a 2000 suburban 5.3 with 280k. Very reliable trucks and super easy to wrench on💯💯💯 I'm 25 and have been doing my own mechanic work since the age of 18, learned quite a bit over the years🙏
I have a 2003 GMC YUKON XL and the 5.3 Vortec engines will go well over 400,000 miles properly maintained. I also have a 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500 LT 5.3 Vortec as I had 1999 Chevy Suburban that I sold years back with 495,000 miles and it still runs today with new owner that has 579,000 . I will never buy anything NEW ‼️ Vehicles today are made cheap and don't last as way over PRICED ‼️ My opinion ‼️ I also own a 1985 Monte Carlo LS 350 Edelbrock 4 Barrel Cam Headers with 76,603 original miles. Old school is the way to go 💯💯💯😎👌
I have an 2002 Silverado. My daily driver without the rust some of y'all are talking about. Currently over 310,000 miles and still going strong. I use it for work and play. More than a third of the milage is towing miles. Wife wants me to buy a new truck but this one is well maintained and I'm hoping to get another 100,000 miles out of her.
+Micah Whitehair Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have an 05 Suburban with 289K and an early 07 Silverado with 228K and have had many of these issues on the trucks. When I replaced the knock sensors and harness I also used some urethane caulk and sealed the rubber boots to the metal. I also cut a chunk of the rear foam filler out that is supposed to keep water and debris out of the gap. The truth is that foam actually traps water and debris making the problem worse. When I replaced the intermediate shaft I also replaced the rear column bearing. It didn’t add that much to the price of materials. One problem you didn’t mention was the brake light switch. This is a fairly common problem that will also cause trailer brakes to not work. You will save yourself a lot of time and hassle by buying a ‘Genuine GM’ switch, not AC Delco and definitely not any aftermarket switches.
Thank you for this video ! A great friend gifted us his (original owner) 2000 Cadillac Escalade. It has 216,000 miles and very reliable. We keep it in good condition, today the brakes are seizing. Based on some YT videos it may be the caliper pistons. Keep up the good work.
Ground wires are an issue on these models. If you’re having electrical issues, check all your grounds. Throttle body issues as well. With high miles, simply replace that throttle body and your bogging or going dead will often go away. Around 200,000 miles, the window motors start to fail. Just remove and replace them. The air ride system is just something we all deal with, I simply ignore the message. I hope this comment helps someone out there in this crazy world. Good video guys.
Very trustworthy information. You can just tell these guys fix the problems the right way. I want to thank 1AAuto for the information to help fix those annoying problems with our spending more then the truck is worth.
I've done my 04 Silverado a few times. Put some tissue in the sensor hole while sanding it down to keep the grit out of the bearing. There are a few videos out there that show this.
Good video. I own a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 with 4.8 V8. with 90K on the odometer. The biggest issue I have experienced is the rear brake calipers sticking closed. Drove all the way from Ohio to Florida, towing a trailer with one of them stuck on. It would smoke and smell until the pads wore down enough. Once I got home I replaced the rear rotors, pads, and calipers. In less than 15K miles, one of them stuck again. Don't replace with cheap rebuilds but buy the more expensive , quality rebuilt calipers. I used Napa the 2nd time. My other issue was the in tank fuel pump. It will get increasingly hard to start until it leaves you stranded with no fuel pressure. Again, don't buy a cheap replacement fuel pump. You either have to drop the tank or raise the bed to install it so you want something that's going to last. Chances are you won't find a replacement with the factory style electrical connector and will have to install an adapter pigtail. I soldered the wires on mine to avoid having an intermittent connection in the future. I have experienced the intermediate steering shaft wobble for a while now so, I think it's replacement is in my near future.
Great tips. The 2003 Z71 Tahoe I bought new from my local dealer is now showing some of these problems; however we have gotten over 325,000 miles out of it so far. Wish I had known about the oil pressure sender problems; years ago, my son and his wife, on a long trip noticed the oil pressure gauge showed wonky readings, and then vehicle cut off at bottom of off-ramp on Interstate, and wouldn't restart. Towed 80 miles to dealership at their destination (free tow with road club); they said oil pump had failed and we had to have that replaced at that dealership for $$$. If I could've gotten it home to check it out, probably could have saved big bucks.
Anywhere that uses road salt, these were prone to antilock brake problems. Over the course of 170,000 I had the front hubs replaced twice on my 02 Silverado. The first time was corrosion on the tone ring, the second time the wheel bearings were getting worn and causing false antilock activation at low speeds. Fuel lines and brake lines corroded and all had to be replaced too. Don Ellis is right about the rear main seal. On the 4.3 V6 I had the rear main seal replaced twice, and had the intake "gasket" done once. If you're losing coolant and you can't find a leak, it's probably going into your oil.
I just had mine fixed a few months back on my 06 Sierra 1500. It was causing me to lose oil and coolant. Once it was fixed i don't have to refill my coolant anymore and oil very rarely.
J Roase Haven’t seen head gaskets issues here, just the rearmost exhaust manifold bolts and intake leaks especially cold,once they run a minute they stop leaking.....
John DiMartino I have. Had to do a gasket job on my old '00 and didnt realize that I had to change the lifters when I had it apart. Some dumbfuck decided not to allow you to change them with the heads still on. Thats GM for you though. One step forward in aesthetic design, seventy steps backward in engineering. These trucks are universally hated by most communities due to awful designs. Im personally done with GM trucks. As far as im concerned, they are dogshit.
@@LrulestheworldM8 sounds like your not to mechanically inclined? How would any vehicle be able to have lifters changed with the heads still on? Lifters are an internal part🤔
@@msp541 interesting I have a leak in the same area and I haven't checked that oil pressure sensor yet I hope that's it and not the rear main seal. Is it hard to replace hard to get to I've got 6.0 v8 all-wheel drive
I love my Suburban! Her name is Evergreen Machine - a 2004 2 wheel drive with 240k miles and going strong! I had the transmission rebuilt, though. She would still go, but was missing the 2nd and overdrive gears. She has never left me stranded, but now I probably need o2 sensors and definitely a new instrument cluster (which doesn't work). I have changed the spark plugs and wires, water pump, lower coolant hose, a part for the power steering pump that was messing with the front suspension (forgot the technical term, sorry), plastic coolant fittings at the firewall, and of course oil and filters. I got her with about 210k miles on her and was skeptical, but I have driven her all over the united states and even tow my 4k lb travel trailer! Overall, best truck I've had!
02 Tahoe got it with about 150xxx on it. It's got close to 190xxx now and all it needs (short of some cosmetic work) is new cats. Didnt start leaking oil until last year. The electrical does get wacky every so often so thanks for the tip!
Guns N Gears so are the oil cooler lines and in the northeast the power steering lines and eventually the power steering pump itself will rust out and start leaking...
$$$ be advised $$$ when you change the knock sensors there is a GM service memo with a procedure to show how to protect the new sensors with rtv... Basically you build a damn with rtv in front of the rear sensor so water cannot get to it
you build a dam around both, along with removing the rear foam. i just did mine yesterday (second time...) and ended up putting a little RTV around the caps to ensure no water gets in the hole.
Bought my 2001 Silverado LS 4WD with 80,000 miles in 2010. Only real issues were the radiator, starter, alternator, and a fuel pump. That's it. Paid 9900.00 and recently sold it with 146,000 miles on it for 7800.00 this year. An excellent truck and the body held up very well. Not bad for owning it for almost 12 years! Best vehicle I ever owned.
I am incredibly grateful to have found this video I have a '04 Tahoe and a 2011 Nissan Titan both have weird issues. I went through a breakup where I got SUGAR in the tank of my Titan and ever since three different Mechanic places can't figure out the electrical issue draining the battery and not being able to warm the engine up when driving. NEITHER vehicle will go into Four-Wheel Drive..... I'm DEFINITELY hoping that your video can help, if not I'm still saving it for future references. Thank you so much for videos with WEIRD Troubleshooting!!!!
Great video, I have had these issues with my 2 of my 03 2500hd and 07 3500 as well 01 Suburban and 02 Yukon Denali just have to maintenance when needed. Two of them are 450k and still running strong
hey i have the abs break lights come on then they go away, what do i need. and also i have a hesitation when i ride gives me bank 1 and bank 2. thanks for your videos.
Great video. I had the same ABS issue. Rolled right through RED light at a intersection. Good thing it wasn't busy. Had no time to try E-brake. Got that fixed and then later blew out brake line. YEP, right near ABS module where the brake lines sit up against the frame collecting salt. All good to go now.
Thanks for the heads up. I have not had any of these issues yet even with over 217,000 miles. My Yukon was handed down to me from my mom at 120,000 miles. She bought it new in 2005 when my step dad passed away. In 2016 mom went into an assisted living apartment and could no longer drive. I’m the oldest of five sons and the only one she would allow to take her out of her apartment. She remembered me the most and the Yukon so it was transferred to me. I moved to Texas and used it to haul furniture and my whippet show dogs. Dad died in August and mom in December. The Yukon still runs great with the AC getting weak and the miles per gallon being 15.6 average so I will be bringing my other vehicle from home on my next visit. The Mercedes E350 gets 22 mpg average which is a whole lot better than the Yukon and the car is easier to park. Plus you can drive faster around curves. So I rather use the Mercedes as my daily driver and save on fuel. That way I will use the SUV for hauling dogs to shows or furniture from one location to another. Thanks again for the updates! 😎
Great video! Really like the assistance diagnosing symptoms and codes. I had an '03 Yukon XL 1500 and have an '05 Suburban 2500 and have had some of these issues. Added bonus: airbag/impact sensors behind front bumper. Easy to fix.
2003 Tahoe, Fuel line replaced once, *Brake lines blew twice* (Got lucky twice!). but none of the mentioned problems, other then that was one of the better vehicles I have owned,
I have a 2000 Chevy Suburban that is having problem's with the rear HVAC unit. I have changed the blower and resistors with new parts but does not help. Neither of the two controllers work. I have checked all fusses and relays and changed some fuses that looked very old and switched out the relays. I dont know what my next step will be.
I have a 2001 GMC Sierra C3/6.0l. My truck was running fine 2 weeks ago even while towing my 20' Cobalt Boat. Now I have been experiencing great loss of power upon acceleration but it is seeming to feel as if it wants to bolt-off as it use to do but then it seems that it's not getting fuel to accelerate or I possibly have a dead coil or bad wire. Now, if my OBD11 Port is not functioning properly to read out any Codes for me. Which fuse is the OBD11 fuse. Is it in the driver's side fusebox under the hood or is it in one of the other 3 fuse boxes? I would sincerely appreciate it if you could possibly give me a clue or two on where to start. I did have a plugwire off of my #4 Cylinder, it showed a little bit of rust on it as if it had been off for quite some time but I'm not sure since it just wasn't plugged in all the way. When I plugged it back in nothing improved. How can I test a Coil-pack or Plugwire to see if it's gone bad? I'm sorry for being lengthy with my explanation but my head is truly spinning with this one. Thank you so much!!! Jeff S. Redford, Michigan
+Jeffrey Sabo We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I'd change out the blower motor. The bearings can get tight, but not make noise. Or, the motor windings are breaking down and causing a higher amperage draw, which in turn takes out the resistor from overheating it.
daniel Morse . Change the blower motor. Had the same thing happen and finally had a customer in the auto store tell me to put in new resistor and see if it got hot...if it did...change the motor and the resister won't fail any more. It drove me crazy for a year doing all sorts of strange things. Replaced the motor and no problem since.
For the knock sensors, I didnt remove the intake and go through that headache, I just unplugged the harness and plugged a new harness in (with two new knock sensors) Then bagged the whole assembly and zip tied it to the firewall! Voila! fixed. The piston slap present in almost ALL vortec engines will set off brand new knock sensors and it does cause "drivability issues" because when it senses knock, it retards the hell outta the timing causing even lower fuel economy. Opee, why no mention of the piston slap? And the sunroofs getting stuck just because you changed the battery?
Run some Marvel Mystery Oil in your engine oil. That stuff REALLY flushes the engine. I used MMO twice, and both times I had to scoop sludge out from the drain hole, using coat hanger wire. But the tick went away and the engine runs smooth as silk now.
I had a 99 GMC Sierra. The 2 main problems I had were rusting chassis and components attached to it, and that irritating cold start knock. On cold mornings it sounded as though the pistons were going to blow out the side of the block at any moment! It always ran good after warm up. I sold it with 106000 miles on it, and was not sad to see it go. Now I can't afford a new truck to replace it!
Yeah I bought my first one in 2020 a 96 gmc c1500 with the 5.7 she currently has 139k miles, people always want to buy it off me lol. But I loved it so much I just bought a 2000 suburban with the 5.3😎
The market for the obs trucks is insane rn, been wanting to grab an extended cab cuz my 96 is a single but everyone wants like 3 or 4 times what I paid for 96 back in 2020
Left out brake lines,all 5 of them get replaced at the same time using a prebent kit made out of stainless steel or nicop.The wheel speed sensor problem,replace the front wheel bearings and this the only fix for it.Cleaning it doesn't fix it,the problem comes back.Don't have to pull the intake to replace the oil pressure sensor.Two 10 inch extensions together on an impact grade universal with an oil pressure sensor socket.Can get to it without pulling the intake.
Who makes honest videos like this??? I want this guy to work on all of my cars!! This guy would explain the issues to me and I’d be like thank you, I trust you... take my money!!! Subscribed and hit the bell!!
And that generation ( gmt900) had some of the cheapest materials ever to be put in a GM truck SUV even the sheet metal can be bend by hand (2010 Tahoe) where the Ford (2008 expedition)has some strong heavy sheet metal but with that being said the "hoe" stay on the road while the "expy" stayed in the shop (5.4 TRITON vs 5.3 VORTEC i know what motor is reliable dependable and efficient despite cylinder deactivated or AFM and limited slip vs automatic locking diffs both have indestructible auto 6 speeds) of course the Chevy has the best drive lines/powertrain but the Ford has the best safety i still take Chevy since knee high.
I have a 01 Tahoe 5.3 with 360000 miles. Runs great. In December replaced fuel pump. In January rebuild transmission, sun gear like exploded so you can imagine the demage, also replace back engine seal. And this weekend replaced A/C compresor, orifice tube and drier. All parts cost me about $2000 and my time, which I dont count as its my hobby.
I literally never had any of these issues. In fact the only issues I have are self-created. Mainly due to the fact that I have huge 15s in the back of my 01 Silverado on 6k watts. Tends to break things. But other than that, do oil changes, rotate tires, brake jobs, and other maintenance and you shouldn't have any issues. Almost 20 years running stronger than ever 👍💪💪💪
You forgot to add brake lines. Ive had several Chevy/GMC pickups, Suburban and Tahoes ranging from '96 to '04 and every single one of them had to have the cheap brakelines replaced due to a rusted leaking line along the frame just under the drivers seat... go figure. We had them replaced with brass lines.
All this also applies to H2 Hummers, my 05 H2, has had an oxygen sensor problem, knock sensors/harness, I proactively replaced my oil pressure sensor while I was doing my knock sensors. Good video!
I have an 03 Yukon Denali. purchased on 07. On going since purchase in the panic alarm will randomly go off (Horn Blowing and Headlights Flashing). Mostly happens during the night. The alarm will reset itself within a short period of time or can be reset immediately with the remote. Have researched the web many times over the years and fing no info. Dealers say they are unable to troubleshoot an intermitting problem. Have a family member that had a 03 Silverado that would do the same, so now it appears it could be a general GM fault in this generation of trucks. My weak attempt at fixing was to remove horn relay (at least the flashing headlights doesn't wake the neighbors) but problem still exists.
I Still Love These Old Chevy Tahoes Cadillac Escalades & GMC Yukons Especially The 2000-2006 Models I Want To Buy A 2005-06 Yukon Denali Short Wheelbase With A Sunroof Only I'll Even Take A 2003-2006 Tahoe LT Or Z71 With A Sunroof
At 250k miles had to have the rear dif rebuilt on '04 Z71 Suburban. Cost $2250, and thought I got ripped off. It had the Limited slip dif. The knock sensors were both replaced with harness at 240k miles. Had driven it for 4 years with that situation so no biggie. I feel they went out shortly after I had pressure washed the engine and got water under the intake manifold. Having trouble with a few electrical items such as headlight switch and drivers seat been crazy for several years. My oil pressure gauge hasn't worked since I bought it at 100k Miles. Good video and thanks.
Well, I have a 2000 Sierra, with 341,000, and a 2004 Sierra with 328,000. Bought them both new. Both still run excellent. 4.8 and 5.3. Both still on original tranny's, rear ends,and engines. Both use a half a quart of oil, at the 5000 mile intervals, and don't leak a drop. I am diligent on maintenance, and enjoy doing it. I don't baby them...but drive them respectfully. Neither has ever been over 4500 revs. I tow a 4500 lbs ski boat...a lot! I have done the replacement of "consumable" parts, before needed. I'm looking to go half a mill, on both. Have had some of the issues that you described. Not a big deal, really. Trucks of this vintage are great, if you are willing to do the maintenance. Just like anything else. Treat it right, and it will treat you right.
The brake lines rotted on my Silverado at only 40,000 miles and 7 years old. The problem is the line lays in frame channel which hold salt and other gunk. I damn near went through the side of a building when my went.
Question..... What If you oil pressure doesn't hold steady pressure untill engine warms up to about 210°then it's fine untill engine cools. Thank you for your time and tutorials there greatly appreciated by those DIYers like myself.
I had a mechanic years ago tell me that letting an in-tank fuel pump get below 1/4 tank was a bad idea. The reason was the fuel covers the pump increasing its cooling ability. Below 1/4 the pump becomes exposed and begins to heat up and shorting its life. I never let my tank go below 1/4 and I have 150,000 with the factory pump. I do not know how true it is but it made sense to me and I have never replaced a pump.
I have an 06 Silverado with the 5.3. I have replaced the oil sensor twice, the o2 sensors twice, I currently have a parasitic draw that is impossible to locate. I have pulled every fuse and still can’t locate it. My ground cables look good but I think I’m going to change them anyway. I haven’t pulled my fuse panel covers but I will do that today. I’m about to change my knock sensors because those just checked out. The truck is great overall but I am super tired of plugging in my trickle charger to keep it alive. Thanks for the video!
It’s a very helpful video. I have a 2006 Yukon and had four mechanics look into the bogging down issue, and they just keep referring me to someone else. If you press down on the gas, the car doesn’t want to go at 1-10 rpm. If you back off the gas pedal and press it again, it starts moving. If you press the pedal and floor it, there is no problem. The truck drives fine. There is no griding or hearing of the transmission slip. Any videos on that subject?
@@phoenixproductions5358 it's a 2007 classic or 2007.5. It was a body style made to look like the older ones but yet still be a newer truck. It's pretty much alike they continue the older Generations into the newer years.
Pretty spot on. In the last year I've replaced my oil pressure sensor. Half to fix that ground. And my knock sensor throws the engine light on a few times a year. Unplug the battery and its fine.
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What does misfire mean?
NICE EXPLINATION THOSE KNOCK SENSORS 😡😡😡😠😠😠😠
1A Auto Parts do a vid on crank sensor for these trucks
@@adal8590 the engine does not run smoothly.
Abs light goes on when driving next time I can drive for a week or a day before the abs light comes on
03 Tahoe owner here- almost 300k miles- instrument cluster went out 10 years ago but engine hasn’t been touched! Beast of an engine/transmission
01 chevy just rolled past 300,000miles and still going strong. Love my older truck. Thanks guys giving me the information I need to keep it going.
I’m at 335xxx myself and she runs excellent not 1 leak and ice cold a/c these were definitely good trucks
Hell yea brother. Just hit 340xxx on my 01, mine was pretty beat when i got it but with some TLC they're strong, reliable trucks!
My brother just bought a 04 Chevy with the 4.8 and it has 270k he has a 93 Chevy 4.3 with 337k the transmission went out and I have a 96 chevy 5.7 with 327k
Mine is at 240,xxx I got a buddy with a suburban and he gots 485,xxx miles just now had to put new tranny in runs like knew
@@jamarjackson5367 just hit 340k on my 05 'Hoe. These trucks are the best!
My dad sadly left us with his 2000 Yukon XL he paid over 26k for it and it still runs amazing only thing he changed was the 4wd switch. Miss him but it runs great with only 170k miles 👍
+Julio Garcia Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Keep it until the wheels fall off
Juilo Garcia. It's just getting broke in, especially if you have the 5.3 liter engine. My 04 Avalanche has over 400K miles, it runs as good as the day I bought it new.
Sorry about the loss of your Dad.
Sorry about your dad but you did not lose him he is just ahead of you. After your purpose for being here is done you will go on to where he is. It is very hard for us that still have to complete our time here and can't see some of our loved ones but they can see us and we all do our time here and then move on so we will see them on the other side. God Bless you and your dad.
I had no idea of all this stuff. I have a 2001 Yukon XL. Going to change cabin air filter then start doing other stuff. Wish I'd known this stuff all along. I just saw a commercial for a replacement on tv. A whole new world has opened up in the last 30 min. 72 yr old lady here!
I’ve had 01,02,03,04 Yukon and the only problem I ever had was the instrument cluster going out. My 03 Silverado too. I’ve done nothing but maintenance to my vehicles. They all made it to 250,000+ miles with only tune ups. I barely replaced the original radiator on my 04 Yukon xl…did the water pump just because. I love these generation vehicles.
I had an on again, off again issue with my gauge cluster no working at all, Found a guy locally who does the custom led's for the cluster and took the cluster to him (very easy to remove, btw). while installing blue leds for me, he reflowed the entire board and i've had no more issues with the gauges. You probably have someone in your area that does the cluster repair. Just look on facebook marketplace.
I just bought a Yukon with a broken cluster and leaking water pump. The cluster had a resistor broken off at both pads. I soldered in a new one and it came back to life.
Thank you for the wonderful straight forward professional video with no distracting HORRIBLE LOUD background music.
+Juan S Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1AAuto.com
@@1AAuto I have a weird on 2000 Chevy silverado 2wd 4.8 idles down and up occasionally no check engine and ideas thanks
@@clemnewton9995 vacuum leak
interesting choices here. As far as most common problems go the only thing i really agree with on this list is the intermediate shaft. Maybe knock sensors too. Id like to add a few of the problems i see most at the dealership where i work.
In no particular order
#1. Intake manifold & water pump gaskets going bad.
#2. The brake lines rusting off
#3. Parking brake shoe linings separating from the backing plates from never being used.
#4. The instrument cluster lights burning out is more certain than death or taxes.
#5. Heater core quick connectors leaking or breaking.
#6. Door switch plates breaking away from the door panels.
#7. Spare tire cable seizing up in the housing.
#8. AC Compressors on early years. (still works just sounds like its going to explode)
#9. Fuel pumps and fuel lines on the non flex fuel models.
#10. Various evap system issues.
#11. Cant forget the headlights/DRL lights filling with condensation!
#12. Also cant forget the DRL bulb sockets melting from the factory bulbs drawing too much current.
Overall these are all super easy problems that can be fixed on the cheap. Probably the best trucks ever built if you do your own repairs! Engines will literally outrun the frames in the long haul.
+fuckgoogle+ Thanks for the feedback!
I agree with both the brake line and parking brake they happened on my 2005 yukon xl and I used to have a 2003 before that and on both the 2003 and 2005 I had the instrument cluster screw up and it made my prndl lights so dim I could barely see them at night with the dimmer on max but I had a buddy solder it on my 2005 and she is perfect again
Very helpful video for those that are not too familiar with Chevy trucks and SUVs. One additional issue that should have been mentioned is an issue that comes up from time to time when a message comes up on the cluster saying "Reduced Engine Power" and the vehicle won't accelerate beyond 5 mph. A very frustrating issue caused mostly by faulty electrical connectors in or around the throttle body.
Glad you added the "bonus" footage because that was EXACTLY my problem. I was trying to diagnose a P0530 code on my A/C "Pressure sensor circuit malfunction." Checked all of the connections on the compressor and high/low-pressure sensors and all of the a/c wiring that I could see. Checked fuses and swapped relays. No joy. Just happened to stumble onto your video. Thought no way in hell could anything be going on under the fuse panel but opened it to check for grounds, etc. There was a fluffy nest made out of what looked like home insulation material and six wires were completely chewed through! I have recently been getting other weird codes like multiple SRS airbag codes and random P0300 misfires. Will solder everything back together in the morning. Hopefully, this was the issue. THANK YOU! THANK YOU!
Update please:)
@@MrJbooker33 Sorry for the delay. Yes, by re-soldering the severed wires it fixed the Air Bag codes and restored power to the rear DVD player which I didn't even realize was not working. I now hear it going through a self-check when I start up the vehicle. Unfortunately, it didn't fix the P0530 A/C circuit malfunction. I think the PCM may have been damaged. Going to take it to a local Audio Installation shop that specializes in wiring troubleshooting. Stay tuned...LOL
@@lizard944 that’s probabaly the recirculating door right?
Proud owner of a 2001 GMC Sierra 5.3L 2wd. Showing 525,000 miles at this time. My 1996 Ford Taurus 3.0L gave up after about 400,000 miles. I am pretty satisfied. From South Carolina.
Well done John. 5.3 vortec engines are solid.
Don’t forget the mention the daytime running lights that one side always goes out. 🤪
Glad to hear im not the only one 🤣🤣
Get u some Lasfit led 3157s. I got tired of replacing mine every 2 weeks and don’t go with other leds. Most burn out after a month lol. Lasfit makes a few where they’re tall and thin and dissipate heat well and I’ve had my drls now for almost 7 months!
That shit bugs the hell out of me, really gets my ocd going. I finally got tired of replacing bulbs & just put new sockets & 6000k led's in & have not had a problem since. But now im noticing it on virtually EVERY other gm truck that drives by. Good call 🤣👍
👍🤣🤣
What are you surprised both bulbs don't burn out at the same time? That would be quite the anomaly if they did!! The issue is the fact they only illuminate when the vehicle is in gear, so you either need to get creative to see if they are burnt out yourself, or rely on someone else to let you know. Most of people driving these vehicles with one burnt out running light don't even know about it. In fact they would probably be surprised to hear it even has running lights!
Couple of years ago, i bought a 2000 GMC yukon, with little over 100,000 original highway miles. It had been stored away, due to title/ownership issues, that finally got squared. I gave it an extensive servicing and TLC. In two years, my SUV has taken us on unforgettable road trips and camping. The best investment, ever. Still going strong at 156,000 miles.
I loved and respected and understood your video. My 2003 Chevy Tahoe has had continual issues. I had everything done and still when it was hot outside and I ran the air conditioner for even 5 minutes the vehicle would drop to reduce engine power. You wouldn't believe the scam job I have received over and over and told by each guy, its the cadilatyic converter, which finally I had replaced. Guess what, that didn't solve the problem. I took it to O reilys, they ran a test, it cleared all the code issues. I had a harness of wires that didn't get out into the black plastic tube holder, We wrapped the wires and put in the black tube and so far for 2 weeks in high heat 90's and running the air conditioner I have had no issues. I have no mechanical knowledge, but It seemed to me that some temperature thing was kicking when it was hot and air conditioner on, I did not have these issues in the winter or weather under 70degrees. At least now I know I am not crazy and your video was excellent. The vehicle is running a little bit rough and it could be the sensors. The codes I got from oreilys scan, coincide with everything you talked about. Thank you Connie D.
Your fuel pump is probably giving out mines would do the same i would turn it of then back on and it would run fine
FYI...2000-2006 Suburbans and Yukon XL, the rear left pocket above the jack is a perfect fit for the small plastic Harbor Freight 30cal ammo boxes. I made a small tool box with one and it sits perfectly there. Like it was designed to fit.
03 2500hd 6.0, still going strong at 400k.
Tow 4k Lb work trailer daily.
Knock sensors lasted to 395k.
All my O2 sensors are original, did a wire chafe repair on front left at about 250k.
All original steering shafts still at 400k. No issues.
Abs sensors were and issue on off brand hub. Cracked wire. Go ACDELCO only hubs.
Oil sending unit was leaking at about 250k, replaced. No more issues.
Dash cluster went haywire at about 250k. Separated motherboard and resoldered numerous resistors and diodes as needed. Works great now.
Blower motor wire harness almost caught fire at 300k. New harness upgrade from dealer and now won't go past 3 on the dial for safe measure (on 5 fan motor draws over 10 amps. F that).
U-joint (front) at 325k.
Water pump lasted to 350k.
Radiator lasted to 325k.
Hydroboost leaked from 100k to 400k, and just replaced that yesterday, still worked. Just leaked bad.
2 or 3 exhaust manifold bolts snapped at around 300k. Welded nut trick to remove.
Ac Delco fuel pump about every 100k.
Think that's about it. Amazing truck.
These vehicles are some of the most durable on the road,IMO. Ford and Dodge during the same years had engine woes,the triton v8, which early on was a great engine in 2V form especially the 4.6 , self changing spark plugs aside, was now a problematic 5.4 version,the 4.7 Chrysler is junk, the early Hemi was good IF the cam didn’t get eaten by a lifter.....but many did..The pre DOD GM LS engines were the best ever made,they were anvils of reliability . I am Fleet mechanic for a town municipality and my entire light duty fleet is 1500-3500 Chevy/GMCs,from 2003-2019 I have 13 of them. Most of our trucks are 2500/3500s all with the LQ4/and L96 6.0s. Nothing else on the road will run as long as reliably and as cheap or is as easy to work on. One thing you did leave out was the grounds...on the back of the drivers side front cab mount right under the drivers feet, there are several large grounds attached to the back of the mount tower, these are super important and they get corroded over time, I remove them clean the ground location to bare metal and cleanup all the terminals and apply fluid film at every oil change, these are ABS grounds ,electronic shift transfer case grounds as well as other various grounds... these are easy to get to while servicing the truck. I’m surprised you did t mention the oil cooler lines and here in NY the lower steering shaft u joint seizes up over time because of the road salt and the snow plows we put on them draw salt into the engine bay.....then there’s the last exhaust manifold bolt that snaps off....etc. Still the best trucks on the road!
If you have one of these year vehicles I would highly recommend replacing the coil packs. Did mine at 180k after doing the typical plugs and wires but had a slight miss that wasn’t throwing a code. Truck would shimmy slightly at a stop. Swap new ones on and it’ll run brand new
I had a 2006 GMC Sierra and got in a head on crash doin 50mph and it still drove. These things are tanks
They are tanks but...... yeah
I got hit in rear qtr panel goin 65 7o on the freeway it sent me off road rolled my truck 3 times.... Ma and my Denali was hurt and broken up it landed on its wheels i started it back up ans actyually drove it to hhospital like 2 miles away
Broke all my ribs ans broke my shoulder
I miss that truck.... It saved my life💯💯
@@sammyb.9344 Holy Shit
I actually own a 06 just like i rolled
And a 2018 denali and i drive my 06
Way more than i do the 2018 it has
4500 miles on it
@Durango DeCarlo Sounds about par for the course. I'm not gonna make up some statistic about phones causing more accidents, but everytime so idiot starts coming over into my lane, or starts stopping on the middle of the freeway, or whatever just plain dumbassery I'm forced to witness and avoid... a phone was the culprit.
Great information, thank you. I've gotten lucky with my '02 with 280,000 miles. The only problem I've had was the intermediate shaft.
I just bought an 02 with 159000 on it it rides beautiful but that’s all people keep telling me how bad they rust I have some rocker panel rust under the back doors and some surface rust in the tailgate I need to get underneath see what’s going on but so far I love the truck
Helpful video. Owning a 2003 Yukon Denali XL, I can attest firsthand to all but the last challenge (electrical issues). And, thanks to your excellent videos, I've been able to make all five repairs (and many others) in my own garage! Love 1A Auto. Best repair videos on the web, hands-down, IMHO.
+prdr01 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I just bought one. Same model and Year as you. Black. It's doing the abs thing. Also when accelerating, at about 10mph, traction control activates. Gotta wait like 3-4 seconds or remove foot from gas pedal and then press again.
@@jasoncurtis4404 I'm going through this did you fix it
Ive owned a few GM trucks from this era. They really are solid, the only issues I had were the oil pressure sending unit ($50 fix) and the grounding issues ($40 fix). I would argue the transmission is a weak point as well but they are heavy trucks.
omg ! 40$ for grounding ? it's too much for that !
You'd think they'd have fixed the trans problems since 1987 when I had my little one. (A Jimmy)
Brake lines and fuel lines rust badly, the frame rusts badly. Exhaust manifold bolts are known to snap off.
my 2000 silverado rusted badly.
84,269 miles and it went to the junk yard.
shock towers gone. brake lines, gone. calipers rusted/leaking. rear bumper had massive rust holes. mechanic refused to work on it.
How to u prevent the rust, I live in Texas and my tahoe has 290,000 with only just slight surface rust. I am moving to Pittsburgh soon in august for school and I’ve heard the rust destroys everything. What can I do? I love this car so much I have 4K put aside just for a new engine an transmission when they go because I want to keep this car forever and rust is my biggest concern.
@@B_WithThe_C dont move to Pittsburgh lol. Undercoatings maybe?
@@B_WithThe_C
If you do not drive it in the salt you will be fine, but I have noticed with older vehicles that are brought up from the south and are driven in the winter they rust out quick.
@@B_WithThe_C have a krown treatment done every year and that will slow the rust down significantly.
Brake and fuel lines rust, the stepper motors in the cluster fail, sending units slowly fail from modern ethanol gas, the center console lid breaks, the tailgate handle breaks, front door speakers fail from water getting past the window seals, blend door actuators slowly fail and make an awful ticking noise in the dash.
Not to mention the whole body rots away around you... Rockers, fenders, fuel door. But the engine will run on and on
Tell us how you really feel about the vehicles
With the exception of cluster failing, you hit the nail on the head with everything that voes wrong with these trucks. One exception the transmission fail at 200k if well taken care of.
Extremely accurate list. I'd add that the headliner starts to sag around the windows if you drive with them down often, a breeze gets under the edge and ends up pulling the headliner away from the adhesive over time. My center console is broken, the A/C ticks in the dash, the infamous running light constantly goes out, the rear hatch doesn't want to open some times, only my fuel and speedometer are accurate, but I've had it for 50K+ miles (sitting at 183k now) and it still runs like when I bought it.
Yes you're 100% correct on that but for some reason us GM lovers love the hell outta Chevy them engines will run forever if kept maintenence friend of minds still humming @ about 490×××
Lol same. My blend doors are ticking, rust hole in gas door (might as well take it completely off lol) and rockers need to be changed, and cab corners, and speakers, and gauge cluster steppers are taking a shit. All 4wd components replaced about 3 years ago, it’s the plow truck/spare vehicle. Do plan on replacing the cab corners and rockers before it eats any further into the cab.
Thanks, that just solved all my checks and balances. I had just replaced all 8 of my spark plugs on my 2006 GMC Sierra Classic. That didn't solve the issue. Now I feel more relaxed watching your video. New spark plugs and now I'll continue with my trouble shooting!! Video is very helpful!!!
As a mechanic i found your company a few years ago for parts .. great cost to value thank you for going further and making videos i hope they are as fun to make ...as they are great for others to follow, I truly appreciate 1aAuto
Excellent video easy to understand and to the point We live in buffalo ny all our life and our 2000 Silverado at 192000 runs like a champ. Yes I personally have replaced all the brake lines and fuel lines 4wd encoder motor. Had it 17yrs now very dependable. With all the crap out there new and used she’s a keeper Have not had a truck payment in 13yrs so I don’t mind wrenching on it or preventative maintenance every summer. At 64yrs young I’ve always loved my chevys 😎🇺🇸 Stay healthy U Tubers n D I Y folks in these trying times of ours 🇺🇸
Heck yeah! Love me a CHEVY! I own a 96 gmc c1500 5.7 with 139k and just bought a 2000 suburban 5.3 with 280k. Very reliable trucks and super easy to wrench on💯💯💯 I'm 25 and have been doing my own mechanic work since the age of 18, learned quite a bit over the years🙏
Don't forget about brake lines, especially the one running along the frame to the back brakes, notorious for rusting through.
Thankfully, mine is a Texas truck, but I am from Illinois, so I get that problem ugh.
trying being from Maine...calcium chloride on the roads in the winter, plus the ocean air just eats through these frames.
I have an 2003 Yukon XL. This video helps immensely!!!
I am glad to hear it! Happy to help in any way we can
I have a 2003 GMC YUKON XL and the 5.3 Vortec engines will go well over 400,000 miles properly maintained. I also have a 2005 Chevy Suburban 1500 LT 5.3 Vortec as I had 1999 Chevy Suburban that I sold years back with 495,000 miles and it still runs today with new owner that has 579,000 . I will never buy anything NEW ‼️ Vehicles today are made cheap and don't last as way over PRICED ‼️ My opinion ‼️ I also own a 1985 Monte Carlo LS 350 Edelbrock 4 Barrel Cam Headers with 76,603 original miles. Old school is the way to go 💯💯💯😎👌
I have an 2002 Silverado. My daily driver without the rust some of y'all are talking about. Currently over 310,000 miles and still going strong. I use it for work and play. More than a third of the milage is towing miles. Wife wants me to buy a new truck but this one is well maintained and I'm hoping to get another 100,000 miles out of her.
This is the best teacher with the way he explains everything - outstanding - very helpful
+Micah Whitehair Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I have an 05 Suburban with 289K and an early 07 Silverado with 228K and have had many of these issues on the trucks.
When I replaced the knock sensors and harness I also used some urethane caulk and sealed the rubber boots to the metal. I also cut a chunk of the rear foam filler out that is supposed to keep water and debris out of the gap. The truth is that foam actually traps water and debris making the problem worse.
When I replaced the intermediate shaft I also replaced the rear column bearing. It didn’t add that much to the price of materials.
One problem you didn’t mention was the brake light switch. This is a fairly common problem that will also cause trailer brakes to not work. You will save yourself a lot of time and hassle by buying a ‘Genuine GM’ switch, not AC Delco and definitely not any aftermarket switches.
Thank you for this video ! A great friend gifted us his (original owner) 2000 Cadillac Escalade. It has 216,000 miles and very reliable. We keep it in good condition, today the brakes are seizing. Based on some YT videos it may be the caliper pistons. Keep up the good work.
My 2001 Chevy suburban has almost all those problems except for the electrical. Thanks for the information. It really helps out!
Ground wires are an issue on these models. If you’re having electrical issues, check all your grounds. Throttle body issues as well. With high miles, simply replace that throttle body and your bogging or going dead will often go away. Around 200,000 miles, the window motors start to fail. Just remove and replace them. The air ride system is just something we all deal with, I simply ignore the message. I hope this comment helps someone out there in this crazy world. Good video guys.
Very trustworthy information. You can just tell these guys fix the problems the right way. I want to thank 1AAuto for the information to help fix those annoying problems with our spending more then the truck is worth.
If you haven't replaced the water pump or brake lines, you will!
no brake line trouble here in the south
+Connor Kurtz Thanks for checking us out!
I have
Brake lines, water pump, AC resistor, clusters, 4 wheel drive switch, main drive tensioner... but still runs like a champ. Chevy
I actually have. You are exactly right.
Thank-you! The front right brake just started with the "pulsating" when I am about to stop, so now I know what to look for!
I've done my 04 Silverado a few times. Put some tissue in the sensor hole while sanding it down to keep the grit out of the bearing. There are a few videos out there that show this.
Yup me too
Had the knock sensor issue, removing the intake manifold is easier then it looks to remove you guys. Dont be afraid.
I replaced it 4 times already within a yr span but it still keeps coming back.. idk why. Changed wires and all
Good video. I own a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 with 4.8 V8. with 90K on the odometer. The biggest issue I have experienced is the rear brake calipers sticking closed. Drove all the way from Ohio to Florida, towing a trailer with one of them stuck on. It would smoke and smell until the pads wore down enough. Once I got home I replaced the rear rotors, pads, and calipers. In less than 15K miles, one of them stuck again. Don't replace with cheap rebuilds but buy the more expensive , quality rebuilt calipers. I used Napa the 2nd time. My other issue was the in tank fuel pump. It will get increasingly hard to start until it leaves you stranded with no fuel pressure. Again, don't buy a cheap replacement fuel pump. You either have to drop the tank or raise the bed to install it so you want something that's going to last. Chances are you won't find a replacement with the factory style electrical connector and will have to install an adapter pigtail. I soldered the wires on mine to avoid having an intermittent connection in the future. I have experienced the intermediate steering shaft wobble for a while now so, I think it's replacement is in my near future.
+GovtSlave Thanks for the feedback!
Great tips. The 2003 Z71 Tahoe I bought new from my local dealer is now showing some of these problems; however we have gotten over 325,000 miles out of it so far. Wish I had known about the oil pressure sender problems; years ago, my son and his wife, on a long trip noticed the oil pressure gauge showed wonky readings, and then vehicle cut off at bottom of off-ramp on Interstate, and wouldn't restart. Towed 80 miles to dealership at their destination (free tow with road club); they said oil pump had failed and we had to have that replaced at that dealership for $$$. If I could've gotten it home to check it out, probably could have saved big bucks.
+Anonymous98 Thanks for the feedback! We hope these help you out in the future to avoid the dealership next time!
You forgot that rear main seal leak, or I think that's why it's called when the vehicle leaks oil between the transmission in the back of the engine
+Don ellis Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team.
I was told that starts when the catastrophic converters start to clog.
Change your oil when you are suppose to.
Anywhere that uses road salt, these were prone to antilock brake problems. Over the course of 170,000 I had the front hubs replaced twice on my 02 Silverado. The first time was corrosion on the tone ring, the second time the wheel bearings were getting worn and causing false antilock activation at low speeds. Fuel lines and brake lines corroded and all had to be replaced too. Don Ellis is right about the rear main seal. On the 4.3 V6 I had the rear main seal replaced twice, and had the intake "gasket" done once. If you're losing coolant and you can't find a leak, it's probably going into your oil.
I just had mine fixed a few months back on my 06 Sierra 1500. It was causing me to lose oil and coolant. Once it was fixed i don't have to refill my coolant anymore and oil very rarely.
Head gaskets could be a problem also front wheel bearings. Great vehicles for many people with over 200,000 and living in the rust belt.
J Roase Haven’t seen head gaskets issues here, just the rearmost exhaust manifold bolts and intake leaks especially cold,once they run a minute they stop leaking.....
Yep just replaced front wheel bearings and look like head gaskets it are giving up after 300k miles
John DiMartino I have. Had to do a gasket job on my old '00 and didnt realize that I had to change the lifters when I had it apart. Some dumbfuck decided not to allow you to change them with the heads still on. Thats GM for you though. One step forward in aesthetic design, seventy steps backward in engineering. These trucks are universally hated by most communities due to awful designs. Im personally done with GM trucks. As far as im concerned, they are dogshit.
@@LrulestheworldM8 sounds like your not to mechanically inclined? How would any vehicle be able to have lifters changed with the heads still on? Lifters are an internal part🤔
What about the rear main seal? It’s a pretty common issue on these GMT800s. Lol
If you have an oil leak it’s most like that seal.
Valve cover gaskets?
Oil pressure switch was my issue thought it was the rear main seal but it was dry…
@@msp541 interesting I have a leak in the same area and I haven't checked that oil pressure sensor yet I hope that's it and not the rear main seal. Is it hard to replace hard to get to I've got 6.0 v8 all-wheel drive
That's just the built in rust prevention
I love my Suburban! Her name is Evergreen Machine - a 2004 2 wheel drive with 240k miles and going strong! I had the transmission rebuilt, though. She would still go, but was missing the 2nd and overdrive gears. She has never left me stranded, but now I probably need o2 sensors and definitely a new instrument cluster (which doesn't work). I have changed the spark plugs and wires, water pump, lower coolant hose, a part for the power steering pump that was messing with the front suspension (forgot the technical term, sorry), plastic coolant fittings at the firewall, and of course oil and filters. I got her with about 210k miles on her and was skeptical, but I have driven her all over the united states and even tow my 4k lb travel trailer! Overall, best truck I've had!
02 Tahoe got it with about 150xxx on it. It's got close to 190xxx now and all it needs (short of some cosmetic work) is new cats. Didnt start leaking oil until last year. The electrical does get wacky every so often so thanks for the tip!
Nice video. Also, the water hose connection at the firewall gets old and brittle until it cracks,and leaves you stranded.
+Greg Schneeberger Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Also a problem with y- hose from reservoir to thermostat and heater hose. Quick disconnects are junk. I did away with mine.
That happened to me back in '17. 01 z71 tahoe
Transmission lines are a frequent problem with GM using those stupid leak prone crimps that go from hard line to hose,,,,,,JUNK!
What I would do if you just put rubber hoses on
Guns N Gears so are the oil cooler lines and in the northeast the power steering lines and eventually the power steering pump itself will rust out and start leaking...
$$$ be advised $$$ when you change the knock sensors there is a GM service memo with a procedure to show how to protect the new sensors with rtv... Basically you build a damn with rtv in front of the rear sensor so water cannot get to it
TheMightybasstone yes that is true I did this! And torque to specification !
you build a dam around both, along with removing the rear foam. i just did mine yesterday (second time...) and ended up putting a little RTV around the caps to ensure no water gets in the hole.
TheMightybasstone why would he mention that when he has a fresh set of sensors to sell ya when they fail again🤑
Bought my 2001 Silverado LS 4WD with 80,000 miles in 2010. Only real issues were the radiator, starter, alternator, and a fuel pump. That's it.
Paid 9900.00 and recently sold it with 146,000 miles on it for 7800.00 this year. An excellent truck and the body held up very well. Not bad for owning it for almost 12 years! Best vehicle I ever owned.
+umarked return Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I am incredibly grateful to have found this video I have a '04 Tahoe and a 2011 Nissan Titan both have weird issues. I went through a breakup where I got SUGAR in the tank of my Titan and ever since three different Mechanic places can't figure out the electrical issue draining the battery and not being able to warm the engine up when driving. NEITHER vehicle will go into Four-Wheel Drive..... I'm DEFINITELY hoping that your video can help, if not I'm still saving it for future references. Thank you so much for videos with WEIRD Troubleshooting!!!!
Great video, I have had these issues with my 2 of my 03 2500hd and 07 3500 as well 01 Suburban and 02 Yukon Denali just have to maintenance when needed. Two of them are 450k and still running strong
+Nathan Gabriel Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
hey i have the abs break lights come on then they go away, what do i need. and also i have a hesitation when i ride gives me bank 1 and bank 2. thanks for your videos.
Just had that problem, root cause on mine was fuel pump
What about the engine tapping? My 2006 Sierra does it all the time. Comes and goes and I hear it’s been an issue with the. 5.3s and 4.8 engines.
Replace the dried out/cracked o-ring for the oil pump pickup tube.
Great video. I had the same ABS issue. Rolled right through RED light at a intersection. Good thing it wasn't busy. Had no time to try E-brake. Got that fixed and then later blew out brake line. YEP, right near ABS module where the brake lines sit up against the frame collecting salt. All good to go now.
+Mike Adkins Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Thanks for the heads up. I have not had any of these issues yet even with over 217,000 miles. My Yukon was handed down to me from my mom at 120,000 miles. She bought it new in 2005 when my step dad passed away. In 2016 mom went into an assisted living apartment and could no longer drive. I’m the oldest of five sons and the only one she would allow to take her out of her apartment. She remembered me the most and the Yukon so it was transferred to me. I moved to Texas and used it to haul furniture and my whippet show dogs. Dad died in August and mom in December. The Yukon still runs great with the AC getting weak and the miles per gallon being 15.6 average so I will be bringing my other vehicle from home on my next visit. The Mercedes E350 gets 22 mpg average which is a whole lot better than the Yukon and the car is easier to park. Plus you can drive faster around curves. So I rather use the Mercedes as my daily driver and save on fuel. That way I will use the SUV for hauling dogs to shows or furniture from one location to another. Thanks again for the updates! 😎
Great video! Really like the assistance diagnosing symptoms and codes. I had an '03 Yukon XL 1500 and have an '05 Suburban 2500 and have had some of these issues. Added bonus: airbag/impact sensors behind front bumper. Easy to fix.
Is that how I get the fix airbag light to go away?
2003 Tahoe, Fuel line replaced once, *Brake lines blew twice* (Got lucky twice!). but none of the mentioned problems, other then that was one of the better vehicles I have owned,
Great video. I had the last one. Mouse chewed through some wires under the fuse box and was causing the tranny to not shift right.
get rodent repeller on amazon
@@tomclose6643 or just drop a mothball in there
I have a 2000 Chevy Suburban that is having problem's with the rear HVAC unit. I have changed the blower and resistors with new parts but does not help. Neither of the two controllers work. I have checked all fusses and relays and changed some fuses that looked very old and switched out the relays. I dont know what my next step will be.
I have a 2001 GMC Sierra C3/6.0l. My truck was running fine 2 weeks ago even while towing my 20' Cobalt Boat. Now I have been experiencing great loss of power upon acceleration but it is seeming to feel as if it wants to bolt-off as it use to do but then it seems that it's not getting fuel to accelerate or I possibly have a dead coil or bad wire.
Now, if my OBD11 Port is not functioning properly to read out any Codes for me. Which fuse is the OBD11 fuse. Is it in the driver's side fusebox under the hood or is it in one of the other 3 fuse boxes? I would sincerely appreciate it if you could possibly give me a clue or two on where to start. I did have a plugwire off of my #4 Cylinder, it showed a little bit of rust on it as if it had been off for quite some time but I'm not sure since it just wasn't plugged in all the way. When I plugged it back in nothing improved. How can I test a Coil-pack or Plugwire to see if it's gone bad? I'm sorry for being lengthy with my explanation but my head is truly spinning with this one. Thank you so much!!!
Jeff S.
Redford, Michigan
+Jeffrey Sabo We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I had several blower motor resistors fail in my 2005 Silverado
+daniel Morse Thanks for the feedback!
I'd change out the blower motor. The bearings can get tight, but not make noise. Or, the motor windings are breaking down and causing a higher amperage draw, which in turn takes out the resistor from overheating it.
daniel Morse
. Change the blower motor. Had the same thing happen and finally had a customer in the auto store tell me to put in new resistor and see if it got hot...if it did...change the motor and the resister won't fail any more. It drove me crazy for a year doing all sorts of strange things. Replaced the motor and no problem since.
I just changed on it took me a week lol. The quarantine actually gave me time to put the new one on
I’ve been wondering about the grounds thanks now I can fix my weird electrical problems.
For the knock sensors, I didnt remove the intake and go through that headache, I just unplugged the harness and plugged a new harness in (with two new knock sensors) Then bagged the whole assembly and zip tied it to the firewall! Voila! fixed. The piston slap present in almost ALL vortec engines will set off brand new knock sensors and it does cause "drivability issues" because when it senses knock, it retards the hell outta the timing causing even lower fuel economy.
Opee, why no mention of the piston slap?
And the sunroofs getting stuck just because you changed the battery?
GENIUS!!!!
I’ve owned several GM’s in those years and I have experienced every one of those problems including the bonus problems 😂
This video just answered so many electrical questions for me! Thank you very much for posting this! It's the best one I've seen yet!✌🏼
+@micheledeleon4162 Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Lifter tick and stuck lifters
Run some Marvel Mystery Oil in your engine oil. That stuff REALLY flushes the engine. I used MMO twice, and both times I had to scoop sludge out from the drain hole, using coat hanger wire. But the tick went away and the engine runs smooth as silk now.
Those were common from the 99 pickups all the way through the 2014 SUVs!
Skye Christensen yep
That's a lack of maintence issue aka dirt old oil.....
Might be oil pick up tube O ring
I had a 99 GMC Sierra. The 2 main problems I had were rusting chassis and components attached to it, and that irritating cold start knock. On cold mornings it sounded as though the pistons were going to blow out the side of the block at any moment! It always ran good after warm up. I sold it with 106000 miles on it, and was not sad to see it go. Now I can't afford a new truck to replace it!
my 99 seirra runs like a dream but it does have rust problems im never geting rid of that thing it is my dad and i's project car
Yeah I bought my first one in 2020 a 96 gmc c1500 with the 5.7 she currently has 139k miles, people always want to buy it off me lol. But I loved it so much I just bought a 2000 suburban with the 5.3😎
The market for the obs trucks is insane rn, been wanting to grab an extended cab cuz my 96 is a single but everyone wants like 3 or 4 times what I paid for 96 back in 2020
Left out brake lines,all 5 of them get replaced at the same time using a prebent kit made out of stainless steel or nicop.The wheel speed sensor problem,replace the front wheel bearings and this the only fix for it.Cleaning it doesn't fix it,the problem comes back.Don't have to pull the intake to replace the oil pressure sensor.Two 10 inch extensions together on an impact grade universal with an oil pressure sensor socket.Can get to it without pulling the intake.
Why impact grade???????
Do a video showing us please
+Keith Perry We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Impact grade doesn't bind up
Who makes honest videos like this??? I want this guy to work on all of my cars!! This guy would explain the issues to me and I’d be like thank you, I trust you... take my money!!!
Subscribed and hit the bell!!
+Todd Essley Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Excellent explanation, I have a problem with my 2005 Silverado, a lock is turning on on the dashboard
please do 07-13 generation next! so many of those models still driving around
+reese bobby We're always cycling through common cars. We'll add this repair to our list! 1AAuto.com
And that generation ( gmt900) had some of the cheapest materials ever to be put in a GM truck SUV even the sheet metal can be bend by hand (2010 Tahoe) where the Ford (2008 expedition)has some strong heavy sheet metal but with that being said the "hoe" stay on the road while the "expy" stayed in the shop (5.4 TRITON vs 5.3 VORTEC i know what motor is reliable dependable and efficient despite cylinder deactivated or AFM and limited slip vs automatic locking diffs both have indestructible auto 6 speeds) of course the Chevy has the best drive lines/powertrain but the Ford has the best safety i still take Chevy since knee high.
They're worse!
Great video, lots of useful information. Yet that rusty frame and everything. Has got me buggin out. 😬
why is john malkovich teaching me about my tahoe?
just kidding lol. great video. you guys are awesome.
I have a 01 Tahoe 5.3 with 360000 miles. Runs great. In December replaced fuel pump. In January rebuild transmission, sun gear like exploded so you can imagine the demage, also replace back engine seal. And this weekend replaced A/C compresor, orifice tube and drier. All parts cost me about $2000 and my time, which I dont count as its my hobby.
+Jaroslav Szabo Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I literally never had any of these issues. In fact the only issues I have are self-created. Mainly due to the fact that I have huge 15s in the back of my 01 Silverado on 6k watts. Tends to break things. But other than that, do oil changes, rotate tires, brake jobs, and other maintenance and you shouldn't have any issues. Almost 20 years running stronger than ever 👍💪💪💪
2004 yukon abs emergency brake light check engine light go on then while driving hear the ringing as if a door is open
Maybe a bad parking brake sensor.
You forgot to add brake lines. Ive had several Chevy/GMC pickups, Suburban and Tahoes ranging from '96 to '04 and every single one of them had to have the cheap brakelines replaced due to a rusted leaking line along the frame just under the drivers seat... go figure. We had them replaced with brass lines.
+Rex Abrams Thanks for checking us out!
Just replaced my whole brakline set up they all were rusted and blew out on me after changing control arms 2003 tahoe z71
Same mine got rusted out n leaked
Had a line blow out on my 03 Avalanche while towing a trailer, fun time.
How hard was replacing all of that, anything you can do to prevent that
A video... with real problems and solutions... holy crap. Subscribed lol
All this also applies to H2 Hummers, my 05 H2, has had an oxygen sensor problem, knock sensors/harness, I proactively replaced my oil pressure sensor while I was doing my knock sensors. Good video!
+Henry Ramos Thanks for the feedback!
I have an 03 Yukon Denali. purchased on 07. On going since purchase in the panic alarm will randomly go off (Horn Blowing and Headlights Flashing). Mostly happens during the night. The alarm will reset itself within a short period of time or can be reset immediately with the remote. Have researched the web many times over the years and fing no info. Dealers say they are unable to troubleshoot an intermitting problem. Have a family member that had a 03 Silverado that would do the same, so now it appears it could be a general GM fault in this generation of trucks. My weak attempt at fixing was to remove horn relay (at least the flashing headlights doesn't wake the neighbors) but problem still exists.
Great video! Thanks! You guys must be up in the Northeast with all the rust, (from road salt) on the vehicle bottom.
+Dave Schuetrum Thanks for watching! You nailed it, a sure sign of a salt-belt vehicle! 1aauto.com
Would these problems happen to chevy impalas of the same years also??
I Still Love These Old Chevy Tahoes Cadillac Escalades & GMC Yukons Especially The 2000-2006 Models I Want To Buy A 2005-06 Yukon Denali Short Wheelbase With A Sunroof Only I'll Even Take A 2003-2006 Tahoe LT Or Z71 With A Sunroof
Hell yeah..And the engines are great
I have a 2004 Chevy Tahoe Z71 with 290,000 miles. Love her an I got money put aside to put a new engine and transmission in her when she leave
@@B_WithThe_C
Where are you going to get your new engine and trans?
At 250k miles had to have the rear dif rebuilt on '04 Z71 Suburban. Cost $2250, and thought I got ripped off. It had the Limited slip dif. The knock sensors were both replaced with harness at 240k miles. Had driven it for 4 years with that situation so no biggie. I feel they went out shortly after I had pressure washed the engine and got water under the intake manifold. Having trouble with a few electrical items such as headlight switch and drivers seat been crazy for several years. My oil pressure gauge hasn't worked since I bought it at 100k Miles. Good video and thanks.
+William Swindle Thanks for checking us out!
Well, I have a 2000 Sierra, with 341,000, and a 2004 Sierra with 328,000.
Bought them both new.
Both still run excellent.
4.8 and 5.3.
Both still on original tranny's, rear ends,and engines.
Both use a half a quart of oil, at the 5000 mile intervals, and don't leak a drop.
I am diligent on maintenance, and enjoy doing it.
I don't baby them...but drive them respectfully.
Neither has ever been over 4500 revs.
I tow a 4500 lbs ski boat...a lot!
I have done the replacement of "consumable" parts, before needed.
I'm looking to go half a mill, on both.
Have had some of the issues that you described.
Not a big deal, really.
Trucks of this vintage are great, if you are willing to do the maintenance.
Just like anything else.
Treat it right, and it will treat you right.
Brake lines and fuel lines rott out in almost every single one
+Geo Powless Thanks for the feedback!
The brake lines rotted on my Silverado at only 40,000 miles and 7 years old. The problem is the line lays in frame channel which hold salt and other gunk. I damn near went through the side of a building when my went.
My 2002 Silverado 4x4, 62 000kms, garage stored, the frame went to pieces. Undercoated every year. I loved that truck, had to sell her for par6s :(
Parts*
@Cheezer I just had to replace my front one's on my 07. It does have 232000 on it though so I'm not complaining, just talking bout my chevy.
Interesting video. My 2002 Tahoe Z71 laughs in the face of adversity, so hopefully I'll never need these tips.
4x4 t case rub. Low oil pressure- not zero but just low. Squeaky pulleys.
Question.....
What If you oil pressure doesn't hold steady pressure untill engine warms up to about 210°then it's fine untill engine cools. Thank you for your time and tutorials there greatly appreciated by those DIYers like myself.
My H2 had all these problems. Fixed them all n the H2 drives smooth. Thank u for your knowledge. U helped us save a lot of money🙏🙏
+Vil Fainga Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Great info! I have an 03 denali and I'm experiencing all the symptoms he covered. Time to go to work
+B Johnson Thanks for checking us out! 1AAuto.com
Weak points
Brake lines
Fuel pumps
Trans cooler lines
Fuel lines
Exhaust manifolds
Transmissions
Rear brake calipers
Frame rot
Rockers panel rot
Rotted out in general...huge rust problem with lots of broken in half trucks 99-07
Heater controls
Window regulators
Tranfer cases
Front wheel bearings( favorite money maker 🙄)
Ignition switches
ABS failures
what no instrument cluster stepper motors...dash actuators for HVAC lol ?
I had a mechanic years ago tell me that letting an in-tank fuel pump get below 1/4 tank was a bad idea. The reason was the fuel covers the pump increasing its cooling ability. Below 1/4 the pump becomes exposed and begins to heat up and shorting its life. I never let my tank go below 1/4 and I have 150,000 with the factory pump. I do not know how true it is but it made sense to me and I have never replaced a pump.
Those ABS Failures. Jesus! Talk about expensive for a refurbished sensor. Tried repairing mine. Worked for 6 months and went to crap again.
How do I prevent the rust
@@Sluna773 that beeping noise drives me crazy everytime it rings cause of the Abs lol
The best Generations for me is from 2000 to 2006 and 2007 to 2014
I have an 06 Silverado with the 5.3. I have replaced the oil sensor twice, the o2 sensors twice, I currently have a parasitic draw that is impossible to locate. I have pulled every fuse and still can’t locate it. My ground cables look good but I think I’m going to change them anyway. I haven’t pulled my fuse panel covers but I will do that today. I’m about to change my knock sensors because those just checked out. The truck is great overall but I am super tired of plugging in my trickle charger to keep it alive. Thanks for the video!
It’s a very helpful video. I have a 2006 Yukon and had four mechanics look into the bogging down issue, and they just keep referring me to someone else. If you press down on the gas, the car doesn’t want to go at 1-10 rpm. If you back off the gas pedal and press it again, it starts moving. If you press the pedal and floor it, there is no problem. The truck drives fine. There is no griding or hearing of the transmission slip. Any videos on that subject?
I've just subscribed to your channel because of this video.. thanks a lot
Lmao my 2002 chevy Tahoe has had way more problems then listed 😂😭 but I still love it...
Same here 2002 tahoe 200,000 plus miles and she's running just fine
"Top Problems 2000-06 " yet the thumb nail shows a 2007?
Brian Willess mine shows the right vehicle but shows NNBS vehicles instead of NBS ones lol
Lol thumbnail is not an 07
@@alfredogarciajr40 Silverado and Sierra generation was 1999 through 2007 Classic.
2007 have a totally different body style...
@@phoenixproductions5358 it's a 2007 classic or 2007.5. It was a body style made to look like the older ones but yet still be a newer truck. It's pretty much alike they continue the older Generations into the newer years.
Pretty spot on. In the last year I've replaced my oil pressure sensor. Half to fix that ground. And my knock sensor throws the engine light on a few times a year. Unplug the battery and its fine.