My 2008 Tahoe sounded even worse than this one. I did everything that you did, except didn't pull the rods, just shot some Seafoam engine down the rods a few times, put her back together, added a little motor flush to the crank case, let it idle for about 10 minus then took a freeway drive for about 30 minutes, punching the gas here and there to force through whatever was blocking the oil flow, and NO ticking, pinging whatever you want to call it. 100% FIXED. Idle was rough prior to this and has been reduced by about 40-50% too. Saved myself a $3000 repair bill I couldn't afford. Totally stoked. Thanks for this video. BTW, I'm handy but never have done anything with an engine before, not even an oil change, so anyone with some patience and the right tools can do it given the proper motivation.
Thank you so much for this video! my lifters were tapping and the mechanic was going to charge us 2500 to fix it - I showed this video to my husband he watched it several times -,followed it and fixed our problem for just $75! thanks for all your help
Does your truck have low oil pressure? Guy in this video has no idea what he's talking about. His tick went away from a new oil filter not the spray. Noise is from air mixing with oil. Oil puck up tube is suckling air from a bad O ring. Driver side front lifters get the oil first. First to fill with air and make noise. O ring only cost $3.50
I have a 2004 5.3 8:58 Yukon that had a very loud tick passenger side- this worked for me- after the motor flush and B-12 truck runs quiet! Saved me a lot of money- this was my last shot before having the lifters replaced! Thank you!!
2006 Envoy, same exact cylinder as your video. I did exactly as you suggested, except I didn't have to pull the rockers. I could easily see that the lifter was low and allowing the pushrod to be loose. I was able to put the straw straight through the rocker into the pushrod. Replaced the valve cover, flushed the engine with motor medic by Gunk. Fifteen seconds into starting the engine it quit tapping. oil change and it's all good. Thanks for the video, I'm actually kinda stunned that it was this easy.
I don't know about the methods in this video... but I do know this... the poster in the comment section who suggested MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) this "issshhhh" is on point. Added a quart to the oil in my 2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L (180K miles) that had lifter noise. Also added 12 oz. to a full tank of gas... After adding I allowed the vehicle to run idle for approx. 10-15min... then drove the vehicle for approx. 30 min and to my surprise the oil pressure ran at 30-35 psi idle and 40 psi while driving. Guess what, no lifter noise at all... the noise was gone by the time I arrived home. You can pick up a 1 quart bottle at Walmart for $3.88... Cheapest quick fix ever... I will be using this with every oil change and every other fill-up in the gas tank...
I have also done the same thing fella. I used a vacuum pump to suck out the oil from the lifters with a hose and a pushrod and then used BERRYMAN B-12 SOLVENT. The stuff is amazing to say the least. I first flushed the engine and then used solvent to clean the rest of the way. The engine has no knocks at all now. Nice video fella too.
THANK YOU SIR. I LOVE people like U. Guess what I did this weekend, I thought it was the water pump. Spent $200 new pump, hoses and anti-freeze. started her up and to no avail, the tapping was still present. To me, not all was loss cause now my cooling system is in tip top summer shape. it's ready for those 110 degree days stuck in traffic. OH YEAH. THANKS Im a new subscriber now
Brian- I had this issue, and following this video I meticulously cleaned every lifter and pushrod in the engine. The lifter noise stopped...for about 50 miles. I then discovered that recently GM issued a bulletin on lifter noise problems on the 5.3. Apparently, the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube, where it meets the block, flattens out and it starts sucking air, decreasing oil flow to the top of the engine. Results: lifter noise. I replaced the o-ring, sure enough, problem solved.
ive done this method on kohler command v twins with hyd lifters.....people never change the oil in their lawn equipment and when the oil gets like petroleum jelly hyd lifters no workie like they supposed to!!! great video brian!!!!
Absolutely the best explanation I have found on TH-cam! I have been stressing over this problem with a new truck I bought thinking I made a huge mistake. Thanks Brian for this very helpful video!!!
Thanks. Brian, I hope you show more videos effective like this video. I drive 2010 escalade esv V8. this week I got a noise from passenger side. tapping sound. then, I got a invoice for 3,600 dollars for repair from auto repair shop. I do not know how much value left for my 12 years old vehicle. but 3,600 dollars is too much for me. I watched 20+ youtube videos. this video is best of best. and it works with 15 dollars instead of 3,600 dollars. I do not know why auto repair shop do not suggest this method first. it is worthy to try and save cost significantly. what I did is that. (1) I sprayed B12 Chemtool in the hole, where tapping sound, it was #6 passenger side. (2) assemble cover back to original place. I leave it 1-2 hours or so. (3) pour 1L motor push & 5min & 2K RPM 2min, still tapping, 2K RPM 2times more. (4) change new engine oil 5L + transmission oil 1L. + oil filter change (5) nothing changed, still tapping, (6) 8 hours passed, tapping sound gone. I spend 6 dollars B12 Chemtool + 9 dollars Motor Flush, total 15 dollars instead of 3,600 invoice. this video save money, and when there is no tapping anymore, I feel exciting, it was embrassing extra budget request this week. but with this video, I enjoyed. thanks again.
Master mechanic here 44 yrs experience. First off let me say I like the man in the video, I like his attitude. But here is my first analysis from the start of the vid is OIL PRESSURE, next after that valve cover was removed I saw NO OIL laying in the upper cupped area of the rockers! Meaning the rockers aren't getting oil and of course the lifters cannot get oil either being no oil gets to the top in order to drain down! The sound I also heard at the vid start was not lifter noise but rocker tappet noise. That engine is not getting upper oil! Oil pump issue here! Thanks
Earl, On point Sir. I posted a couple weeks ago also. In our case it was the "O" ring (about the size of a quarter) on the top of the pick up tube. It was extremely hardened and cracked in half. Remove oil pan and pick up tube (easy) and look at "O" ring. It's getting all the oil it needs now. No noise whatsoever since replacing it several weeks ago.
10.6.14. Great observation! I thought that the upper end looked a little light on lubricant when the rocker cover was pulled. Oil pump relief circuit is a known trouble source on these engines, as is the o-ring for the pickup tube.
@andersonrowland Spark plug knock or pre-detonation is due to using an octane rating that's too low. The fix is almost always to use the manufacturer recommended octane rating.
I've slowly been watching all of your uploads as I have time and I must say, you are the absolute MAN! Watching you and others like you, (ErictheCarGuy), really restore my pride in being a Tech. You guys show people there are honest guys out there and they do great work. I also appreciate the fact that you also mini-reviewed the products you used. I love Sea-Foam and B-12 is fantastic. I never had too much of a belief for any motor flush working, but you convinced me. Thanks bro
My 2000 Suburban is making the same noise.After watching this video several times I finally got bold enough to pull my valve cover off. OMG the sludge was so thick I used 5 cans of the B12. I used the flush 2 times changing the oil and filter each time the noise is much better and my oil pressure is almost back to normal. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Brian your videos are awesome, if I may offer a suggestion to help you avoid future headaches: tape the straw to the applicator nozzle before spraying that way you wont lose the straw down into the engine if there is a blow out between the nozzle and straw
After using this on my suburban with a bit of lifter noise and using some valvoline full synthetic 10w40 and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer to top it off. I can confirm it worked well, great video thank you!
Great video but wanted to share my experience. My 2005 Tahoe 5.3L had a ticking valve. The first or second valve on the drivers side. Would come and go but very irritating. I replace the valve cover on that side and tried the Chemtool spray to no avail. The problem is the O-ring on the oil pickup tube in the oil pan. I dropped the oil pan and found the o-ring was cracked which was causing lower oil pressure and the oil not to travel to the front lifters. I replaced it and no more ticking.
that you said is my solution I think everyone should check for that. if your oil level is fluctuating you bet it's an cracked o ring or damaged oil sensor or oil pump. thanks bro....
That is the solution to low oil pressure... which you ARE correct! But if you have good oil pressure, these lifters CAN still be noisy due to sludge buildup... Cleaning them will help with that!
Adam Brock Holy crap, same exact year and model and am having a bitch of a time getting rid of this lifter tick. It’s definitely driver side. Did you drop the pan or go thru the front?
I know this is an old video but wanted to add my experience. I have an 09 Yukon that sounded EXACTLY like the truck in this video but mine was very hit or miss, no rhyme or reason to when or why it would start ticking. Before taking off the valve covers and doing this in my truck i decided to try a different kind of flush. I changed the oil and put a K&N filter on, put in 5 qts. of 5w-30 full synthetic (whatever was on sale) and 1 qt. of automatic transmission fluid. The minute i started it you could hear the difference in the engine, smoother, quieter and not a tick to be heard. The day after i did this it was actually -5 when I got up to go to work and the cold start didn't even knock/ping or tap like it used to, smooth as butter. Before this my oil pressure would be at or just below 20 at idle and 30ish on the highway, would jump to 40 if a floored it. Afterwards, idle oil pressure was just above 30 and about 39 on the highway. I drove it like this for 200-300 miles and did a full oil change with a new K&N filter, 5.5 qts of 5W-30 Royal Purple and .5 qts of marvel mystery oil and have done this each oil change since and the tick has never returned. Hope you all have good luck with your experiences! Thank you Brian for the video, gave me the info I needed to try and tackle the problem myself.
And after 4 years how's the engine on your Yukon running, my 00 5.3 LS Silverado with just 105 K miles started to do the thicking noise but only when the engine is cold like in the mornings, some days ago I added Marvel Miracle oil ( like 1/8 of a QT) and some Lucas oil treatment and it diminished the noise but for only a day, or so, I'm going to go head and give it a try and used the stuff you mentioned here. Thanks for sharing.
@@chalyfalcon24 yeah so in the end the tapping returned. It ended up being the oil pick up tube o-ring, not a cheap or easy job but it was def. the issue. The o-ring was hard and cracked so it was just like trying to drink through a broken straw. Replaced the oil pump, timing chain and sprockets as well as all gaskets as all of that had to come off in order to get to the pick up tube. Once this o-ring was replaced oil pressure and quiet smooth operation of the engine returned. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
@@aboardcomfortablynumb5849 ok I get it, so I might as well plan on doing the O Ring at once, and yes I know it's not an easy job but I'm going to try and do it myself some day, shops are way too expensive now days. Several other people mentioned same thing about the O Ring, and I believe that it's the right call. Thank you for your response and for sharing your experience you had with your Vehicle.
Thank you Brian, my 07 silverado with a 4.8 was making the same noise, started when under acceleration then within a week would tick at idle. It seemed to be coming from the # 2 exhaust so I did the motor flush, being it the least intrusive, then the chemtool and in 50 miles the tick was gone. Thank you so much.
i went thru on my 06 silverado (5.3L) and threw some cleaner thru all my pushrods, then buttoned everything up and did the engine flush. it still ticks a tad...but i'm sure most of what i'm hearing now is just from my longtube headers. runs like a champ though and she's significantly more quiet at idle. thanks for the thorough video man...lots of help!
Amazing Results!!! I do most of the work on my own vehicles, but I'm pretty hesitant to get inside the engine. My 2005 Suburban suffered from increasing ticking...it started out a small periodic tick and became a noisy tick I could hear when driving on the freeway. It was getting worse and worse. So, I was about to bite the bullet and take it in for whatever the mechanic had to do. this was not an exciting prospect. Would it cost $500? $1000? More? When I saw this video, it gave me hope. I went and bought the carb cleaner and engine flush, followed the exact steps laid out in the video. After the oil change, I was surprised that there was no more noise, but figured that might be due to idling and the new oil. The real test came when I took a drive to a nearby city on the freeway pulling a trailer. Loads usually induce the racket if nothing else does. No Noise! After a half hour on the freeway and 20 minutes of city driving, I heard a very slight tick once while idling. I think I'll do the flush again at the next oil change. Total cost: Under $10 besides normal oil change. I'm so happy! Thanks for this great video.
I just bought my first truck, a 2002 Tahoe LS and had the same issue in the same location. I was only about 500 miles overdue for an oil change and got it the next day after buying it. I also ran some Seafoam through the crankcase as well as the tank. Very quiet afterwards but I would still like to drill deeper and check my lifters as well. Thanks for recommending good products as well. #subbed
Great video Brian! Suggestion: Use this sequence to clean the crud out of the lifters - 1. Solvent (Berryman, Gumout, etc.) 2. Light spray Oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc.) 3. Rubber tipped air gun on the push rod ends to blow the crud away. Repeat the sequence 3 or 4 times, and of course change the engine oil & filter when you're done. The solvent is great at dissolving the crud, but the oil has enough viscosity to carry the crud away. Adding the light oil and compressed air really clears it out. Thanks.
He was 4,518 miles after his previous oil change. If the last oil change was with a quality full synthetic motor oil and less than a year ago, he should be totally fine. If the oil was a crappy conventional motor oil, yeah 3,000 miles max. That’s why I do all my own oil changes. None of this “paying for a full syn oil change and getting conventional oil gumming up my motor” crap. Great idea man with the B12 and the motor flush to clear that crud out of the lifter and free up the small piston inside it!
This is probably the best video I've found by far... My 08 5.3 ticks so hard. I'm determined to tackle it this weekend and see if what you did will work for mine also. Thank you
Lifter cleaning: Use the pushrod as a "straw" to *directly inject* the cleaning fluid, AND to *push the lifter down to work it*, pumping the cleaner through it. IMO K1 Clear Kerosene is a great "flushing" fluid; drain 2 QTS oil, replace with same amount of K1 CLEAR Kerosene (not the cheap pink colored). Also- to check for a bent pushrod- clean, then roll them slowly by hand on a piece of quality window glass. *OLD SCHOOL STUFF.*
Ding , Ding, Ding ! We have a Winner ! You my friend win the "Wise Old Owl Award " for thinking outside the box with this clever idea ! Thanks! 👨🎓🔧 🦉🦉🦉
@@moparbee1523 Wow! 8 years later? I just thought, the way fuel injectors are cleaned, just pump a cleaner through the hydraulic valve lifter too. I guess it's only relevant to older systems that use a component like a hydraulic valve lifter. I could imagine other hydraulic/oil actuated components such as a cam phaser or a VVT/VTEC controller can get clogged up with coke from overheated, dirty oil.
I have a 05 Sierra with a 270.000 miles on it and i swear you can't here it idol. It's still very very quiet. I just kept the oil change every 2000 miles or less. It's worth it to me.
Awesome video! After spraying you should drain all old oil, tighten drain bolt, pour the flush DIRECTLY on the lifters and let it soak for a little before pouring good oil over them. Button up the valve cover. Then fill as normal and do the recommended flush instructions
You didn't do anything wrong in my opinion. I just found a longer straw that reached into the lifter... fill em full... that stuff evaporates anyway, I did an entire can for all the lifters and my Dad's 5.3 it don't clack anymore. Wish we had known all this in the 80's but lifters were cheap back then. Great Video!
Hi I have a better and sur shot 5 minute solution for this problem.It will clean up the gunk repair abrasions of the piston and block and rings improve compression reduce friction reduce noise and improve mileage upto 10 %.No more cold start woes . You will have best starts even in coldest temperatures of -45 degrees Celsius.Oil will become secondary lubricant. Have treat many pick up trucks with many at 280000 kms or more .
I had the same thing happen to my truck, but I put half a can of seafoam in it and drove it for a hundred miles and did a oil change and that stuff really worked great. It was running smoother, quieter, and there was a lot less crank time.
super detailed so it was very helpful. no more noise. so thanks so much for the video. my question is how much would this be for a mechanic to do it at a shop.
Reminds me of back in the nineties, 265 Valiant, Ausse version. Spray carb cleaner down beside the pushrod onto the hydraulic lifter at idle, did the job. Recall using a bit of ATF in the oil, gunked up Rover V8, (had sat for years) cleaned the crap out after we preprimed the motor, ahh, the memories.
hey I seen this video I really like it I did it and a little bit later within a couple of weeks it's slowly came back do you got any suggestions besides trying it again
I want to thank you for all your videos, I am going to try this on my tahoe since I have the same problem. BTW, you saved my volvo xc90 twice! Thanks Brian!!
My 5.3 with 300,000+ miles developed a major lifter tick. I changed the oil, replacing one quart of oil with a quart of Rislone. The the tick cleared up. Cleaning oil passages/lifters is the goal and I think this product did that for my engine. I was relieved, replacing lifters on a 5.3 is not an easy fix.
you sure have a lot of faith in that red straw attached to that carb cleaner spraying down that tiny hole lol Damn thing would have fallen off if that was me.
So true for me, I installed a mellling pump and it took my oil pressure from 28PSI on 197k on the engine it also boosted my oil to 50-60 plus psi, annoying tapping of the lifters gone. done 6 months ago, btw I have Royal Purple 5/30 oil.
Dude your a bad ass! You know your stuff. My 2000 silverado is doing the same thing. Could I try just putting sea foam in the oil right before I change it and possibly clear it out?
About motor flush: Lots and lots of people who actually sell motor flush products and additives told me never to use them. Motor flush usually softens the seals and creates leaks or knocks. For cleaning the inside of an engine, the best thing I use is plain motor oil. Buy some cheap oil, put it in, run it for a few days and then dump it. Put some quality stuff in it. Did that on my dad's 1.8l Ford, it has 17 years and around 300k km and it runs great. I'm so doing the same thing on my van.
Problem was the O ring on the pick up tube. Thanks for your video and thanks to your posters. My Buddy and I recently fixed his noisy 5.3. It had the same noise as in your video. It was louder during load while going up a hill. It was the O ring located on the pick up tube. It was cracked and came out in two pieces. There was no way it could have been allowing oil pump to efficiently operate. Factory oil pan gasket and O ring were very reasonable. Problem solved. Not a hard job. Probably a 2 - 3 hour job.
got 350k plus out of GM 5.3 .. They have known oil pick up tube o ring issue causing air bubble s in oil stream. After 2006 there is a small oil screen under oil pressure sender which supplies lifers . Clean it with brake cleaner. GM wants 5W30 oil only use it.
Thank you. It encouraged my to do my 2000 Tahoe, did both sides. Noise was still there, ended up that one bolt was loose on the flexplate. I watched some of you videos. Really good, thank you
I just had a collapsed lifter replaced in my Chevy 5.3 with only 6k miles on the clock. Actually two lifters replaced, as GM said the opposing cylinder lifter had to be replaced too. Great that this was 100% warranty, sucks that it happened at all.
to replace lifters would you have to pull the intake and not the heads? just wondering becuase that's how it works on the old 350 that im used to working on. i love GEN I small blocks, such a solid, simple, and powerful engine. they dont make them like that anymore
I recommend riselone every oil change on an older engine works very well at getting rid of lifter tick. Or you can use ATF and change at shorter intervals and that helps too.
Thanks Brian, Enjoyed watching, but more this provided the solution for my problem my 4.0 Jeep Cherokee. Just follwed your instructions and applied to my motor. What a difference. As a professional your very quick, I'm abit slower but got the job done! I used a piece of cardboard and kept my pushrods in order along with its mated rocker. Regards, Doug
I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 5.3L V-8 Vortec. I use synthetic 5W30 Mobil or Pennzoil full synthetic. This is due to the engines design having tighter clearances for oil to move around. Every other oil change I use Marvel Mystery Oil in place of one quart. Keeps things clean and well lubed. I also add 6oz to a full tank to keep my fuel system working well. 10 years 172972 miles ZERO ISSUES.
+TONYLOVE1 Same engine here. I actually do the same thing - except I use about 1/2 a quart of MMO at each oil change with straight Castrol GTX 5w30 (every 3,000 miles)
Brian, Thank you for sharing this info. A lifter in my 01 Silverado 4.8 started ticking badly like inthe video. I took off the coil pack plate and the v/c but then reconnected the coils. I started the engine. The #5 intake lifter wasn't pumping up apparantly. I didn't remove the rocker but did shoot B12 down its bleed hole. I also shot compressed air into it. I let it soak for a bit and also added 1/2 qt of ATF to the oil. I also added a little bit an STP additive that claims to quiet lifters
The biggest issue is that the lifters on the front of this motor, especially the 2nd gen version, get starved of oil and seize up on the front cylinders because of poor oiling methods. GM knew this, and replaced a bunch of these with better oil pumps or higher pressure pumps when they would fail within the 36000 mile warranty. If you have oil pressure under 30lb at idle, your front lifters are not getting enough oil to fill up, and you will hear knocking, which eventually leads to seized lifters.
I have a 2010 that gets probably a little better than 20 at idle after it’s warmed up. It’s always done this. 97k miles. Oil pressure is fine while driving.
Why not try my sure shot solution. A nano treatment will super lubricate by sitting inside the tiny pores of metal and keep it always lubricated. Will also repair the piston and rings and improve compression and mileage. Very easy cold starts even in -45 degree Celsius.Extend the life of engine with least maintenance and extended oil change intervals.Actually oil will become secondary .Treated lot of pick up trucks Ford Dodge GM Toyota old and new and some at 400000 kms. Cost reasonable time required 5 minutes and DIY. Contact for more details
okay, thanks a ton. will be doing a tune up soon including all new sparkplugs. do you have a reccomendation for any plugs ? have 150k miles on my truck if that matters
It's not the lifters. It's the oil pump O ring leaking air into the oil lines. Oil foam goes to the hydrolic lifters. The air compress in liftee and you get a tick sound. Higher rpm the oil pressure is greater than 40 psi the tick goes away and comes back when at idle.
It may. You're pretty smart! motor flush is the cleaners and conditioners that make up much of what's in transmission fluid. Trans fluid is different in that its also hydraulic fluid too. You'll find trans fluid is thicker and motor flush is super thin and < 0W
Great video. I dont have that truck or that problem but came across the video and liked the way you presented everything and all the tips. I'm sure it will come handy in future. Good job!!
If you've been skimping on oil changes and sludge accumulation is making your lifters stick this can help. If your lifters are simply worn out and or broken it won't help.
i have a 2009 gmc sierra 4x4 sle 1500. it only has 106,000 miles on it and i have tsaken good care of it. all sudden it started idling really rough and i could hear lifter tapping loudly. it threw p0301 cylinder 1 misfire and a p0449 evap emission solenoid. i swapped coil packs no change, then it started throwing just p0449 and then a crankshaft position sensor code as well.. i put new evap solenoid on, but didn't fix problem. the p301 cylinder misfire code is back and now throwing a p0121 throttle body position sensor. the lifter is still tapping loudly and i'm lost on what to do. i know this has been a common problem with the 2009 models. help.
Have used this method to flush Mazda 1.6 and 1.8 Liter engines that can often suffer from loud lifter tap if not run for a long time, or bad oil changes.. Should work well in any engine really. get engine warm. Drain oil. put on a new filter, add 3qrts Automatic Trans Fluid, 1qrt of any thicker oil. Idle the engine for 30 min or so.. maybe longer. DO NOT DRIVE IT... Drain it.. If your seriously paranoid about ANY of the ATF being left behind in the oil pan. after it has drained.. dump an qrt of new oil in with the drain plug out.. should flush the pan clean of ATF. refill with your choice of oil, also a new filter. I have had great success with this method.. if you look up the properties of ATF it is fine for just idling.. but has great cleaning and detergent properties.
Awesome job. I have an '02 Yukon with the 6.0L, and the lifters sound pretty loud. Would this procedure be effective if you just sprayed the B-12 through the oil port of the rocker arm with the rocker arm and pushrod in place? I'm not sure what the torque spec is on tightening those rocker arms, so the idea of having to re-establish them correctly makes me mildly nervous.
Hi, did you ever get an answer to this. ? He doesn't say anything about torque or position of the engine prior to removing them or installing the back up. Thanks
+Ricardo Pay A buddy of mine and I looked up the specs, and I think it said 22 ft lbs. I removed the two rockers and pushrods that we're worn and replaced them with new ones. I torqued them down to between 23 ft lbs I think. I still have the clacking, so when I get time I'm going to do the rest of them on the passenger side. One other thing to note, make sure the valve spring is relaxed when you remove the rocker. If not you run a higher risk of stripping out the retaining bolt.
Just did this on my 4.8 got real loud when I started it after the b12 and engine flush and bam was dead silent after a few seconds the tick is still their but very faint can’t even here it while driveing anymore. Great video helped me
Put some Seafoam or MMO in the sump and run It to heat a few cycles. Mine cleared the lifters doing this. You can also quick flush It (20 minutos) with 1 Qt of Gasoline as I did To my Taurus. Works way Better then diesel to clean lifters.
I just came to say thanks for the video. I had no idea about lifters or what their purpose was but now I'm well informed and about to tackle the problem on my truck.
@kenman1717 I agree with you! You change the oil filter every time you change the oil. AT LEAST change the filter a reasonable interval and top off eigh?
Can you push pipe cleaners into those holes to clean out and gunk that gets in there? i have a 5.3 thats got a knock on cold start, its a new development so im assuming something is up as well. wanting to strip the engine (never did before) so im asking questions and watching videos.
3000 mile oil changes are a total waste of money with modern engines and oil. ANY conventional out there can easily pass an oil analysis with 5000 miles. I've witnessed 10k on conventional in an 06 Ram 4.7L and it easily passed the oil analysis at my local CAT dealer. A typical Ford F150 oil change monitor will go 10K before it recommends changing the Motorcraft 5W-20 semi syn. Full blown Syn oils can easily go 15K. So 8000 on this oil change isn't that crazy. I'm sure the oil would still qualify as good under a lab analysis for base and additive packages. It's not the 60's.
NeilLB7 NeilLB7 you're out of your damn mind to think a conventional oil would last 10,000 miles. I don't care who you are or what oil you use. All oil breaks down over time. If you're going to use conventional, 3000-4000 miles is ok, anything more is pushing it. Yes Full synthetic can go longer, but 15,000 miles? I don't think so. The most I've ever let my engine go on full synthetic is 6,000 miles. Even on the bottle of oil it says, "Check owners manual." Go by what your OWNERS manual says and the oil change interval that it recommends.
True. Some oils break down much faster than others. The condition of the oil is what determines if it needs to be changed or not; not the miles. Sure you can stick to the 5k or 7k miles intervals for your oil changes and that's fine but if the oil isn't broken down and would likely pass an oil analysis test then it doesn't need top be changed yet. Generally speaking, if the oil's condition looks to be good to the eyes then it's most likely still doing it's job and isn't broken down. If you can still see through the oil in the daylight and it's golden brown, not dark brown or black, then the oil is still good. Heat is what breaks down engine oil, regardless of the engine's operating hours or amount of miles actually driven. So if you use cheap oil for example, it will break down much faster and turn dark much sooner than top brand oil such as Mobile 1 or Castrol, both of which are the best for daily drivers in my opinion. So run the good oil and it will last longer and simply monitor the condition of your oil between oil changes and change it when it looks like it's getting dark colored. You don't have to go by the standard oil change intervals unless you jujst want to be safe and spend more money more frequently. It's up to you but run the good oil or you will be sorry.
Sixty years ago a truck engine oil drain (or oil change) would have been performed as frequently as every 500 miles. Because of higher quality lubricants, cleaner fuels, improved filter technology and more dependable engines, today it is possible to have an oil drain interval as high as 50,000 miles or more on these same types of vehicles. Nevertheless, typical oil drain intervals remain around 25,000 miles, and little attention is paid to adjusting this standard due to the diverse environments and other factors these vehicles face. For example, two identically produced vehicles may experience a very different oil life; one may reach close to 50,000 miles, while the other might be starving for fresh oil by 15,000 miles. This variance in engine oil life is the result of many factors from three main areas: 1. Engine Design, Age and Conditions - Engine design characteristics and numerous running conditions can affect oil life factors from exposures to contaminants and other conditions. 2. Driving Patterns and Conditions - Where and how the truck is driven. 3. Oil Properties - Quality and formulation performance of the engine oil.
transmission fluid would cease an engine wouldnt it...I got a 5.7ltr ls1 with lifter noise due to previous owner not regularly servicing it, i was happy to see this video as it has put my mind to rest with the noise that is coming out of my engine..I never use to hear it until i changed the oil..So will def give this a try but i think i will run a lifter free product from nulon first..Awesome video
That ticking noise is from the metal on the lifters roller starting to get pitted. No solution will make it go away until you replace the worn parts. Left untreated it will eventually flatten the camshaft lobe and cause a misfire.
Thanks for the video. My 03 Avelanche makes a chirping noise on the passenger side. The dealer said I need a new engine. I have removed the belts to eliminate them as a cause. The noise is coming from the number 2cylinder. Do yo have any suggestions. There is a good video with the chirping sound.
Is that B12 chemtool harmful to anything around that area anything I should avoid hitting? How did this truck turn out? I have a little oil on a spark plug only on one cylinder so I think it's the valve seal. Gonna be in there so I might try this.
I love how you explain things. And you answer some of the 'dumb questions' that people who are probably watching wouldn't know to ask instead of just assuming everyone knows. :)
Sounds like the Cardinal grandmeters affected the hydrocoptic marzle veins causing side fumbling of the ambefacient lunar wane shaft. When this happens the nonreversible tremipipe cannot stabilize differential girdle springs!
I work on 5.3 and 6 liter gm motors all the time and we replace the oil pump because they go bad all the time. I would replace the oil pressure sending unit as well since they go bad all the time as well. The tick will go away I will guarantee you that.
Good job. I have 2008 5.3 im about to tackle. Christian Brothers Auto quoted me $3000 to $4500. I was told basically that me engines trashed evern though my oil psi is normal and no loss of power.
+Danny Myers It's certainly worth a shot. If you have the skills to pull the heads and replace the lifters that's plan B. Some get bad enough that you have to do that and pushrods.
+briansmobile1 I bet you never heard this lol....Ok lets say ur car has 5qt of oil u drain 2qt of oil and then put 2qt of DIESEL yeap DIESEL....let it idle for 5min and the drain it and clean like Mr.Cleans Bald head and no more lifter noises!!!
my 2010 Tahoe does the same thing. all the 5.3 AFM motors are having the same issues. Poor engineering by Chevy/Gm. The lifters and volm manifold are crap
+Reggie B I dunno bruh, I have had two of these trucks and put 200K on both engines bone stock with regular mobil 1 oil changes and never had ANY issues....both 2002 models, a Z-71 extended cab and a stepside regular cab 2wd.
+bdevlint1501 because yours are 2002 models. you dont have to worry about AFM. AFM lifters are terrible. other than the early engines with AFM , LS motors are the shit!
@jsnyara, I just started using high octane fuel and the spark knock is almost gone. Would suck if I had to pull a trailer on regular 87 octane with the chatter. Seems like a waste to run high octane in my truck, I get 14.8 per gallon... Thanks for the input!
thanks you for the video. funny reading all this. My 05 is doing a funny thing. 20 lbs when started. 40 when warms up, but lifter tapping when oil pressure goes from 40 lbs to 44 lbs then it stops. LOL its driving me crazy. I used this video to replace the pcv valve cover and cleaned the rods and lifter tops with the B12, but still taps. About to replace the oil pump and o-ring. 220k miles. I keep yall posted if it fixes it.
@@nathankelly8665 funny reading all this. My 05 is doing a funny thing. 20 lbs when started. 40 when warms up, but lifter tapping when oil pressure goes from 40 lbs to 44 lbs then it stops. LOL its driving me crazy. I used this video from briansmobile1 to replace the pcv valve cover and cleaned the rods and lifter tops with the B12, but still taps. About to replace the oil pump and o-ring. 220k miles. I keep yall posted if it fixes it.
@spelunkerd If you use a lighter viscosity oil first number like a synthetic 0W30 it will help with that. Sometimes a 5W20 (like Ford requires on it's trucks and vans with micro lifters) will help get the lube where it needs to be.
Hi Brian my 95 Nissan 240sx make that sound but not that bad and that came from the front of the engine and I don't know if is the timing chain or valve but ones start the car and when the oil came up the sound start up, any idea?
You're going through a lot of work and using a wholly and completely inappropriate product for a lifter rattle. Number one, as an aside, the reason B12 clean so well is its 85% lacquer thinner which is why you don't put it inside your engine because it will melt all of the seals. It does work great the fuel tank but it is extremely dilute. If you want to clear a lifter rattle you don't take the valve cover off the engine you add a half a quart to a full quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. It has been clearing lifter rattles since they invented hydraulic lifters. Huge Advantage with Marvel Mystery Oil you can actually drive the engine with it in the oil. The reason you can do this is because Marvel Mystery Oil is motor oil. It was originally designed for World War 1 aircraft engines and not long after World War 1 it was bottled as Marvel Mystery Oil. Before you put a wrench on an engine... Try it first. Recently I had a man come up with a lifter rattle in a Land Rover. We put half a quart into the engine and it stopped before we could close the Hood. It cleans the internals of the engine better than anything else I have seen and has that huge advantage of being able to add it to the oil and drive it that way. You cannot do that with motor flush because you will damage the engine if you leave motor flush in longer than 10 to 20 minutes, most especially if you put the engine under load with it in it. You may get lucky but you also might lose a bearing or two. If you put the Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine and you still have the noise, you most likely have a mechanical issue not an oil flow issue. But in over 50 years I have only seen less than 5 occurrences of a lifter clatter be caused by anything other than an oil flow issue. The 5.3 also has an unusual issue with the oil pickup tube o-ring hardening and allowing air to flow past it which lowers your oil pressure and oil flow volume which can raise temperature of the oil and cause it to Coke up and plug the lifters. B12 chemtool, being what it consists of, has go business inside the crankcase of an engine or inside a transmission. I have only ever seen one person put a half a bottle of chemtool in there crankcase it melted the seals. And I've also heard of it happening to a transmission or two. B12 chemtool only goes in the fuel tank where is used from the spray can.
The clacking did not go away immediately but it did go away the next day. It now only happens upon start up after the truck has sat a day. And even then, only briefly and not as loudly. It goes away completely after a few seconds. I use Valvoline 5w30 and NAPA filters every 6K miles. Thanx man. I owe you a steak dinner next time you are in SoCal.
with 856 comments I'm sure you've heard it. But good job on the video. And I don't say that often. Learn something new and had a laugh. Good job thanks
My 2008 Tahoe sounded even worse than this one. I did everything that you did, except didn't pull the rods, just shot some Seafoam engine down the rods a few times, put her back together, added a little motor flush to the crank case, let it idle for about 10 minus then took a freeway drive for about 30 minutes, punching the gas here and there to force through whatever was blocking the oil flow, and NO ticking, pinging whatever you want to call it. 100% FIXED. Idle was rough prior to this and has been reduced by about 40-50% too. Saved myself a $3000 repair bill I couldn't afford. Totally stoked. Thanks for this video. BTW, I'm handy but never have done anything with an engine before, not even an oil change, so anyone with some patience and the right tools can do it given the proper motivation.
Thank you so much for this video! my lifters were tapping and the mechanic was going to charge us 2500 to fix it - I showed this video to my husband he watched it several times -,followed it and fixed our problem for just $75! thanks for all your help
Do u live in la I have the same problem right now and I don’t know how to do it
He shows you in the video exactly what to do.
Did your low oil pressure light come on as well?
Does your truck have low oil pressure? Guy in this video has no idea what he's talking about. His tick went away from a new oil filter not the spray. Noise is from air mixing with oil. Oil puck up tube is suckling air from a bad O ring. Driver side front lifters get the oil first. First to fill with air and make noise. O ring only cost $3.50
@port nut Under warranty: They all do that it's fine drive it. Out of warranty: O that's bad you need to fix that right away $2500
I have a 2004 5.3 8:58 Yukon that had a very loud tick passenger side- this worked for me- after the motor flush and B-12 truck runs quiet! Saved me a lot of money- this was my last shot before having the lifters replaced! Thank you!!
Way to go! You're welcome!
2006 Envoy, same exact cylinder as your video. I did exactly as you suggested, except I didn't have to pull the rockers. I could easily see that the lifter was low and allowing the pushrod to be loose. I was able to put the straw straight through the rocker into the pushrod.
Replaced the valve cover, flushed the engine with motor medic by Gunk. Fifteen seconds into starting the engine it quit tapping. oil change and it's all good. Thanks for the video, I'm actually kinda stunned that it was this easy.
I don't know about the methods in this video... but I do know this... the poster in the comment section who suggested MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) this "issshhhh" is on point. Added a quart to the oil in my 2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L (180K miles) that had lifter noise. Also added 12 oz. to a full tank of gas... After adding I allowed the vehicle to run idle for approx. 10-15min... then drove the vehicle for approx. 30 min and to my surprise the oil pressure ran at 30-35 psi idle and 40 psi while driving. Guess what, no lifter noise at all... the noise was gone by the time I arrived home. You can pick up a 1 quart bottle at Walmart for $3.88... Cheapest quick fix ever... I will be using this with every oil change and every other fill-up in the gas tank...
I have used for other things but looks like I'll be using it more as an extra oil additive
Didn't that person post put ATF fluid in with the oil and MMO in the gas tank
@@tommybokelman5565 no he said add MMO to the oil
Can use both wsys.
Its a mild detergent.
Will cause rubber to swell too.
I have also done the same thing fella. I used a vacuum pump to suck out the oil from the lifters with a hose and a pushrod and then used BERRYMAN B-12 SOLVENT. The stuff is amazing to say the least. I first flushed the engine and then used solvent to clean the rest of the way. The engine has no knocks at all now. Nice video fella too.
I know this is old but you're still helping people and I really appreciate man!
THANK YOU SIR. I LOVE people like U. Guess what I did this weekend, I thought it was the water pump. Spent $200 new pump, hoses and anti-freeze. started her up and to no avail, the tapping was still present. To me, not all was loss cause now my cooling system is in tip top summer shape. it's ready for those 110 degree days stuck in traffic. OH YEAH. THANKS Im a new subscriber now
Brian- I had this issue, and following this video I meticulously cleaned every lifter and pushrod in the engine. The lifter noise stopped...for about 50 miles. I then discovered that recently GM issued a bulletin on lifter noise problems on the 5.3. Apparently, the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube, where it meets the block, flattens out and it starts sucking air, decreasing oil flow to the top of the engine. Results: lifter noise. I replaced the o-ring, sure enough, problem solved.
Hey you still alive? Would this be the reason why my lifters start to tick after going 70 mph? When I lower my speed ticking goes away
@@JayyMoney-vr7nvbro you’re hilarious
ive done this method on kohler command v twins with hyd lifters.....people never change the oil in their lawn equipment and when the oil gets like petroleum jelly hyd lifters no workie like they supposed to!!! great video brian!!!!
Absolutely the best explanation I have found on TH-cam! I have been stressing over this problem with a new truck I bought thinking I made a huge mistake. Thanks Brian for this very helpful video!!!
😮😅😅😅😅😅 0:18 😅😅😮😅😅😅😅😮
😮😅😅😅😅😅 0:18 😅😅😮😅😅😅😅😮😮
😮😅😅😅😅😅 0:18 😅😅😮 0:24 😮😮😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😊😅😅😮😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😮😮😅
😅😅😅😮😅😊
😅
Thanks. Brian, I hope you show more videos effective like this video. I drive 2010 escalade esv V8. this week I got a noise from passenger side. tapping sound. then, I got a invoice for 3,600 dollars for repair from auto repair shop. I do not know how much value left for my 12 years old vehicle. but 3,600 dollars is too much for me. I watched 20+ youtube videos. this video is best of best. and it works with 15 dollars instead of 3,600 dollars. I do not know why auto repair shop do not suggest this method first. it is worthy to try and save cost significantly. what I did is that. (1) I sprayed B12 Chemtool in the hole, where tapping sound, it was #6 passenger side. (2) assemble cover back to original place. I leave it 1-2 hours or so. (3) pour 1L motor push & 5min & 2K RPM 2min, still tapping, 2K RPM 2times more. (4) change new engine oil 5L + transmission oil 1L. + oil filter change (5) nothing changed, still tapping, (6) 8 hours passed, tapping sound gone. I spend 6 dollars B12 Chemtool + 9 dollars Motor Flush, total 15 dollars instead of 3,600 invoice. this video save money, and when there is no tapping anymore, I feel exciting, it was embrassing extra budget request this week. but with this video, I enjoyed. thanks again.
Master mechanic here 44 yrs experience. First off let me say I like the man in the video, I like his attitude. But here is my first analysis from the start of the vid is OIL PRESSURE, next after that valve cover was removed I saw NO OIL laying in the upper cupped area of the rockers! Meaning the rockers aren't getting oil and of course the lifters cannot get oil either being no oil gets to the top in order to drain down! The sound I also heard at the vid start was not lifter noise but rocker tappet noise. That engine is not getting upper oil! Oil pump issue here! Thanks
Earl,
On point Sir. I posted a couple weeks ago also. In our case it was the "O" ring (about the size of a quarter) on the top of the pick up tube. It was extremely hardened and cracked in half. Remove oil pan and pick up tube (easy) and look at "O" ring. It's getting all the oil it needs now. No noise whatsoever since replacing it several weeks ago.
10.6.14. Great observation! I thought that the upper end looked a little light on lubricant when the rocker cover was pulled. Oil pump relief circuit is a known trouble source on these engines, as is the o-ring for the pickup tube.
Sorry i disagree when a oil pump gives in it's 9 out of 10 times that you have a WAY bigger problem then the lifters!
Earl Guyton x
Earl Guyton *
@andersonrowland Spark plug knock or pre-detonation is due to using an octane rating that's too low. The fix is almost always to use the manufacturer recommended octane rating.
I've slowly been watching all of your uploads as I have time and I must say, you are the absolute MAN! Watching you and others like you, (ErictheCarGuy), really restore my pride in being a Tech. You guys show people there are honest guys out there and they do great work. I also appreciate the fact that you also mini-reviewed the products you used. I love Sea-Foam and B-12 is fantastic. I never had too much of a belief for any motor flush working, but you convinced me. Thanks bro
My 2000 Suburban is making the same noise.After watching this video several times I finally got bold enough to pull my valve cover off. OMG the sludge was so thick I used 5 cans of the B12. I used the flush 2 times changing the oil and filter each time the noise is much better and my oil pressure is almost back to normal. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Brian your videos are awesome, if I may offer a suggestion to help you avoid future headaches: tape the straw to the applicator nozzle before spraying that way you wont lose the straw down into the engine if there is a blow out between the nozzle and straw
After using this on my suburban with a bit of lifter noise and using some valvoline full synthetic 10w40 and a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer to top it off. I can confirm it worked well, great video thank you!
Welcome! Good job!
Great video but wanted to share my experience. My 2005 Tahoe 5.3L had a
ticking valve. The first or second valve on the drivers side. Would come
and go but very irritating. I replace the valve cover on that side and
tried the Chemtool spray to no avail. The problem is the O-ring on the
oil pickup tube in the oil pan. I dropped the oil pan and found the
o-ring was cracked which was causing lower oil pressure and the oil not
to travel to the front lifters. I replaced it and no more ticking.
that you said is my solution I think everyone should check for that. if your oil level is fluctuating you bet it's an cracked o ring or damaged oil sensor or oil pump. thanks bro....
Adam Brock. What was your oil presure reading. When it was low
That is the solution to low oil pressure... which you ARE correct!
But if you have good oil pressure, these lifters CAN still be noisy due to sludge buildup...
Cleaning them will help with that!
Adam Brock Holy crap, same exact year and model and am having a bitch of a time getting rid of this lifter tick. It’s definitely driver side. Did you drop the pan or go thru the front?
Cecilia M Mine runs anywhere from 10 to 20 psi.
I know this is an old video but wanted to add my experience. I have an 09 Yukon that sounded EXACTLY like the truck in this video but mine was very hit or miss, no rhyme or reason to when or why it would start ticking. Before taking off the valve covers and doing this in my truck i decided to try a different kind of flush. I changed the oil and put a K&N filter on, put in 5 qts. of 5w-30 full synthetic (whatever was on sale) and 1 qt. of automatic transmission fluid. The minute i started it you could hear the difference in the engine, smoother, quieter and not a tick to be heard. The day after i did this it was actually -5 when I got up to go to work and the cold start didn't even knock/ping or tap like it used to, smooth as butter. Before this my oil pressure would be at or just below 20 at idle and 30ish on the highway, would jump to 40 if a floored it. Afterwards, idle oil pressure was just above 30 and about 39 on the highway. I drove it like this for 200-300 miles and did a full oil change with a new K&N filter, 5.5 qts of 5W-30 Royal Purple and .5 qts of marvel mystery oil and have done this each oil change since and the tick has never returned. Hope you all have good luck with your experiences! Thank you Brian for the video, gave me the info I needed to try and tackle the problem myself.
And after 4 years how's the engine on your Yukon running, my 00 5.3 LS Silverado with just 105 K miles started to do the thicking noise but only when the engine is cold like in the mornings, some days ago I added Marvel Miracle oil ( like 1/8 of a QT) and some Lucas oil treatment and it diminished the noise but for only a day, or so, I'm going to go head and give it a try and used the stuff you mentioned here. Thanks for sharing.
@@chalyfalcon24 yeah so in the end the tapping returned. It ended up being the oil pick up tube o-ring, not a cheap or easy job but it was def. the issue. The o-ring was hard and cracked so it was just like trying to drink through a broken straw. Replaced the oil pump, timing chain and sprockets as well as all gaskets as all of that had to come off in order to get to the pick up tube. Once this o-ring was replaced oil pressure and quiet smooth operation of the engine returned. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
@@aboardcomfortablynumb5849 ok I get it, so I might as well plan on doing the O Ring at once, and yes I know it's not an easy job but I'm going to try and do it myself some day, shops are way too expensive now days. Several other people mentioned same thing about the O Ring, and I believe that it's the right call.
Thank you for your response and for sharing your experience you had with your Vehicle.
Thank you Brian, my 07 silverado with a 4.8 was making the same noise, started when under acceleration then within a week would tick at idle. It seemed to be coming from the # 2 exhaust so I did the motor flush, being it the least intrusive, then the chemtool and in 50 miles the tick was gone. Thank you so much.
i went thru on my 06 silverado (5.3L) and threw some cleaner thru all my pushrods, then buttoned everything up and did the engine flush. it still ticks a tad...but i'm sure most of what i'm hearing now is just from my longtube headers. runs like a champ though and she's significantly more quiet at idle. thanks for the thorough video man...lots of help!
Amazing Results!!!
I do most of the work on my own vehicles, but I'm pretty hesitant to get inside the engine. My 2005 Suburban suffered from increasing ticking...it started out a small periodic tick and became a noisy tick I could hear when driving on the freeway. It was getting worse and worse. So, I was about to bite the bullet and take it in for whatever the mechanic had to do. this was not an exciting prospect. Would it cost $500? $1000? More?
When I saw this video, it gave me hope. I went and bought the carb cleaner and engine flush, followed the exact steps laid out in the video. After the oil change, I was surprised that there was no more noise, but figured that might be due to idling and the new oil. The real test came when I took a drive to a nearby city on the freeway pulling a trailer. Loads usually induce the racket if nothing else does. No Noise! After a half hour on the freeway and 20 minutes of city driving, I heard a very slight tick once while idling. I think I'll do the flush again at the next oil change.
Total cost: Under $10 besides normal oil change. I'm so happy! Thanks for this great video.
I just bought my first truck, a 2002 Tahoe LS and had the same issue in the same location. I was only about 500 miles overdue for an oil change and got it the next day after buying it. I also ran some Seafoam through the crankcase as well as the tank. Very quiet afterwards but I would still like to drill deeper and check my lifters as well. Thanks for recommending good products as well. #subbed
Great video Brian! Suggestion: Use this sequence to clean the crud out of the lifters - 1. Solvent (Berryman, Gumout, etc.) 2. Light spray Oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc.) 3. Rubber tipped air gun on the push rod ends to blow the crud away. Repeat the sequence 3 or 4 times, and of course change the engine oil & filter when you're done. The solvent is great at dissolving the crud, but the oil has enough viscosity to carry the crud away. Adding the light oil and compressed air really clears it out. Thanks.
there is a hole on the top of the rocker arms where you don't have to remove the rocker arms to spray stuff in there...
He was 4,518 miles after his previous oil change. If the last oil change was with a quality full synthetic motor oil and less than a year ago, he should be totally fine. If the oil was a crappy conventional motor oil, yeah 3,000 miles max. That’s why I do all my own oil changes. None of this “paying for a full syn oil change and getting conventional oil gumming up my motor” crap. Great idea man with the B12 and the motor flush to clear that crud out of the lifter and free up the small piston inside it!
thats freakin awesome! we texans love bm1! ive learned so much from his videos too.....love all the tool reviews and time saving tips!
This is probably the best video I've found by far... My 08 5.3 ticks so hard. I'm determined to tackle it this weekend and see if what you did will work for mine also. Thank you
Lifter cleaning: Use the pushrod as a "straw" to *directly inject* the cleaning fluid, AND to *push the lifter down to work it*, pumping the cleaner through it. IMO K1 Clear Kerosene is a great "flushing" fluid; drain 2 QTS oil, replace with same amount of K1 CLEAR Kerosene (not the cheap pink colored). Also- to check for a bent pushrod- clean, then roll them slowly by hand on a piece of quality window glass. *OLD SCHOOL STUFF.*
Ding , Ding, Ding ! We have a Winner ! You my friend win the "Wise Old Owl Award " for thinking outside the box with this clever idea ! Thanks! 👨🎓🔧 🦉🦉🦉
@@moparbee1523 Wow! 8 years later? I just thought, the way fuel injectors are cleaned, just pump a cleaner through the hydraulic valve lifter too. I guess it's only relevant to older systems that use a component like a hydraulic valve lifter. I could imagine other hydraulic/oil actuated components such as a cam phaser or a VVT/VTEC controller can get clogged up with coke from overheated, dirty oil.
I have a 05 Sierra with a 270.000 miles on it and i swear you can't here it idol. It's still very very quiet. I just kept the oil change every 2000 miles or less. It's worth it to me.
Awesome video! After spraying you should drain all old oil, tighten drain bolt, pour the flush DIRECTLY on the lifters and let it soak for a little before pouring good oil over them. Button up the valve cover. Then fill as normal and do the recommended flush instructions
You didn't do anything wrong in my opinion. I just found a longer straw that reached into the lifter... fill em full... that stuff evaporates anyway, I did an entire can for all the lifters and my Dad's 5.3 it don't clack anymore. Wish we had known all this in the 80's but lifters were cheap back then. Great Video!
You're right. You can't please everyone. I don't expect to. I love myself and that's enough for me.
Darn just what I needed.. this dude is awemsome!! I'm doing this this weekend!! , mine taps or knocks but goes away after 15 seconds in the morning
Hi I have a better and sur shot 5 minute solution for this problem.It will clean up the gunk repair abrasions of the piston and block and rings improve compression reduce friction reduce noise and improve mileage upto 10 %.No more cold start woes . You will have best starts even in coldest temperatures of -45 degrees Celsius.Oil will become secondary lubricant. Have treat many pick up trucks with many at 280000 kms or more .
I had the same thing happen to my truck, but I put half a can of seafoam in it and drove it for a hundred miles and did a oil change and that stuff really worked great. It was running smoother, quieter, and there was a lot less crank time.
You put it in the gas or the oil?
super detailed so it was very helpful. no more noise. so thanks so much for the video. my question is how much would this be for a mechanic to do it at a shop.
Reminds me of back in the nineties, 265 Valiant, Ausse version. Spray carb cleaner down beside the pushrod onto the hydraulic lifter at idle, did the job. Recall using a bit of ATF in the oil, gunked up Rover V8, (had sat for years) cleaned the crap out after we preprimed the motor, ahh, the memories.
hey I seen this video I really like it I did it and a little bit later within a couple of weeks it's slowly came back do you got any suggestions besides trying it again
11:46 getting excited about spraying. was waiting for the little red tube to pop off and fall into the push rod hole.
@Jcal022 I'm not sure. Many manufacturers use a coating to protect it from crud and say DON'T do it. It should be labeled if this is the case.
I want to thank you for all your videos, I am going to try this on my tahoe since I have the same problem. BTW, you saved my volvo xc90 twice!
Thanks Brian!!
My 5.3 with 300,000+ miles developed a major lifter tick. I changed the oil, replacing one quart of oil with a quart of Rislone. The the tick cleared up. Cleaning oil passages/lifters is the goal and I think this product did that for my engine. I was relieved, replacing lifters on a 5.3 is not an easy fix.
you sure have a lot of faith in that red straw attached to that carb cleaner spraying down that tiny hole lol Damn thing would have fallen off if that was me.
+David Nelson That is literally the first thought on seeing that.......... You would have heard a loud "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO"
David Nelson h
So true for me, I installed a mellling pump and it took my oil pressure from 28PSI on 197k on the engine it also boosted my oil to 50-60 plus psi, annoying tapping of the lifters gone. done 6 months ago, btw I have Royal Purple 5/30 oil.
David Nelson I was thinking that exact thing I was like that’s my luck it would come off and I would’ve spent hours trying to get it out
Lmao that was my first thoughts
This actually worked, i didn't unstick until i started driving. But it was a long shot that paid off. Thanks buddy!!
Dude your a bad ass! You know your stuff. My 2000 silverado is doing the same thing. Could I try just putting sea foam in the oil right before I change it and possibly clear it out?
About motor flush: Lots and lots of people who actually sell motor flush products and additives told me never to use them. Motor flush usually softens the seals and creates leaks or knocks.
For cleaning the inside of an engine, the best thing I use is plain motor oil. Buy some cheap oil, put it in, run it for a few days and then dump it. Put some quality stuff in it.
Did that on my dad's 1.8l Ford, it has 17 years and around 300k km and it runs great. I'm so doing the same thing on my van.
Problem was the O ring on the pick up tube. Thanks for your video and thanks to your posters. My Buddy and I recently fixed his noisy 5.3. It had the same noise as in your video. It was louder during load while going up a hill. It was the O ring located on the pick up tube. It was cracked and came out in two pieces. There was no way it could have been allowing oil pump to efficiently operate. Factory oil pan gasket and O ring were very reasonable. Problem solved. Not a hard job. Probably a 2 - 3 hour job.
If im doing this as a lil preventive maintenance, should i change the oil right after or would it be good to drive till my next oil change in 1k miles
got 350k plus out of GM 5.3 ..
They have known oil pick up tube o ring issue causing air bubble s in oil stream. After 2006 there is a small oil screen under oil pressure sender which supplies lifers . Clean it with brake cleaner.
GM wants 5W30 oil only use it.
Thank you. It encouraged my to do my 2000 Tahoe, did both sides. Noise was still there, ended up that one bolt was loose on the flexplate. I watched some of you videos. Really good, thank you
I just had a collapsed lifter replaced in my Chevy 5.3 with only 6k miles on the clock. Actually two lifters replaced, as GM said the opposing cylinder lifter had to be replaced too. Great that this was 100% warranty, sucks that it happened at all.
to replace lifters would you have to pull the intake and not the heads? just wondering becuase that's how it works on the old 350 that im used to working on. i love GEN I small blocks, such a solid, simple, and powerful engine. they dont make them like that anymore
I recommend riselone every oil change on an older engine works very well at getting rid of lifter tick. Or you can use ATF and change at shorter intervals and that helps too.
Hayden Binkley how long can i keep atf fluid in engine
Thanks Brian,
Enjoyed watching, but more this provided the solution for my problem my 4.0 Jeep Cherokee. Just follwed your instructions and applied to my motor. What a difference. As a professional your very quick, I'm abit slower but got the job done! I used a piece of cardboard and kept my pushrods in order along with its mated rocker. Regards, Doug
I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 5.3L V-8 Vortec. I use synthetic 5W30 Mobil or Pennzoil full synthetic. This is due to the engines design having tighter clearances for oil to move around. Every other oil change I use Marvel Mystery Oil in place of one quart. Keeps things clean and well lubed.
I also add 6oz to a full tank to keep my fuel system working well. 10 years 172972 miles ZERO ISSUES.
+TONYLOVE1
Same engine here.
I actually do the same thing - except I use about 1/2 a quart of MMO at each oil change with straight Castrol GTX 5w30 (every 3,000 miles)
TONYLOVE1 my motor had nothing but royal purple, 5.3l 303k miles. just rebuilt the motor because it finally started burning little oil.
I have a 2011 Silverado with the 5.3 and use 5/30 Pennzoil full synthetic as well, it ain't cheap but neither is a new engine later on. haha!
Brian, Thank you for sharing this info. A lifter in my 01 Silverado 4.8 started ticking badly like inthe video. I took off the coil pack plate and the v/c but then reconnected the coils. I started the engine. The #5 intake lifter wasn't pumping up apparantly. I didn't remove the rocker but did shoot B12 down its bleed hole. I also shot compressed air into it. I let it soak for a bit and also added 1/2 qt of ATF to the oil. I also added a little bit an STP additive that claims to quiet lifters
I loved the rock band!
The biggest issue is that the lifters on the front of this motor, especially the 2nd gen version, get starved of oil and seize up on the front cylinders because of poor oiling methods. GM knew this, and replaced a bunch of these with better oil pumps or higher pressure pumps when they would fail within the 36000 mile warranty. If you have oil pressure under 30lb at idle, your front lifters are not getting enough oil to fill up, and you will hear knocking, which eventually leads to seized lifters.
Check out the knowledge on Chubbysumo here! Thanks for sharing with us.
I have a 2010 that gets probably a little better than 20 at idle after it’s warmed up. It’s always done this. 97k miles. Oil pressure is fine while driving.
Why not try my sure shot solution. A nano treatment will super lubricate by sitting inside the tiny pores of metal and keep it always lubricated.
Will also repair the piston and rings and improve compression and mileage. Very easy cold starts even in -45 degree Celsius.Extend the life of engine with least maintenance and extended oil change intervals.Actually oil will become secondary .Treated lot of pick up trucks Ford Dodge GM Toyota old and new and some at 400000 kms. Cost reasonable time required 5 minutes and DIY. Contact for more details
okay, thanks a ton. will be doing a tune up soon including all new sparkplugs. do you have a reccomendation for any plugs ? have 150k miles on my truck if that matters
It's not the lifters. It's the oil pump O ring leaking air into the oil lines. Oil foam goes to the hydrolic lifters. The air compress in liftee and you get a tick sound. Higher rpm the oil pressure is greater than 40 psi the tick goes away and comes back when at idle.
It may. You're pretty smart! motor flush is the cleaners and conditioners that make up much of what's in transmission fluid. Trans fluid is different in that its also hydraulic fluid too. You'll find trans fluid is thicker and motor flush is super thin and < 0W
Great video. I dont have that truck or that problem but came across the video and liked the way you presented everything and all the tips. I'm sure it will come handy in future. Good job!!
If you've been skimping on oil changes and sludge accumulation is making your lifters stick this can help. If your lifters are simply worn out and or broken it won't help.
Brian i work for chevy. what year was this truck? ive seen lifters fail on 2009 year
i have a 2009 gmc sierra 4x4 sle 1500. it only has 106,000 miles on it and i have tsaken good care of it. all sudden it started idling really rough and i could hear lifter tapping loudly. it threw p0301 cylinder 1 misfire and a p0449 evap emission solenoid. i swapped coil packs no change, then it started throwing just p0449 and then a crankshaft position sensor code as well.. i put new evap solenoid on, but didn't fix problem. the p301 cylinder misfire code is back and now throwing a p0121 throttle body position sensor. the lifter is still tapping loudly and i'm lost on what to do. i know this has been a common problem with the 2009 models. help.
Make sure some furry friend hasn’t made a home
this is happening right now to my 2004 Chevy Silverado. ...so glad you posted this video.....WINNING!!!
and AGAIN, I've learned some more great stuff on youtube today!! Thanks!!
Have used this method to flush Mazda 1.6 and 1.8 Liter engines that can often suffer from loud lifter tap if not run for a long time, or bad oil changes.. Should work well in any engine really.
get engine warm. Drain oil. put on a new filter, add 3qrts Automatic Trans Fluid, 1qrt of any thicker oil. Idle the engine for 30 min or so.. maybe longer. DO NOT DRIVE IT...
Drain it.. If your seriously paranoid about ANY of the ATF being left behind in the oil pan. after it has drained.. dump an qrt of new oil in with the drain plug out.. should flush the pan clean of ATF.
refill with your choice of oil, also a new filter.
I have had great success with this method.. if you look up the properties of ATF it is fine for just idling.. but has great cleaning and detergent properties.
Awesome job. I have an '02 Yukon with the 6.0L, and the lifters sound pretty loud. Would this procedure be effective if you just sprayed the B-12 through the oil port of the rocker arm with the rocker arm and pushrod in place? I'm not sure what the torque spec is on tightening those rocker arms, so the idea of having to re-establish them correctly makes me mildly nervous.
Hi, did you ever get an answer to this. ? He doesn't say anything about torque or position of the engine prior to removing them or installing the back up. Thanks
+Ricardo Pay A buddy of mine and I looked up the specs, and I think it said 22 ft lbs. I removed the two rockers and pushrods that we're worn and replaced them with new ones. I torqued them down to between 23 ft lbs I think. I still have the clacking, so when I get time I'm going to do the rest of them on the passenger side. One other thing to note, make sure the valve spring is relaxed when you remove the rocker. If not you run a higher risk of stripping out the retaining bolt.
Just did this on my 4.8 got real loud when I started it after the b12 and engine flush and bam was dead silent after a few seconds the tick is still their but very faint can’t even here it while driveing anymore. Great video helped me
mine has lifter noise HOWEVER it goes away when the engine warms up after a cold start --really hoping this will work
How'd it go?
Put some Seafoam or MMO in the sump and run It to heat a few cycles. Mine cleared the lifters doing this. You can also quick flush It (20 minutos) with 1 Qt of Gasoline as I did To my Taurus. Works way Better then diesel to clean lifters.
Sure it wasn't your exhaust manifold?
I just came to say thanks for the video. I had no idea about lifters or what their purpose was but now I'm well informed and about to tackle the problem on my truck.
Anyone know if this 5.3L is the same in the chevy suburbans and silverados
myCarRepairChannel yes
They are very similar.
Jose Hernandez thanks man!
yes it's the same. basically from 2002 until at least 2013. GM 5.3 had very little changes. Maybe a power boost here and there
AutOdometer
@kenman1717 I agree with you! You change the oil filter every time you change the oil. AT LEAST change the filter a reasonable interval and top off eigh?
Brian, Great video. Love the humor.
Can you push pipe cleaners into those holes to clean out and gunk that gets in there? i have a 5.3 thats got a knock on cold start, its a new development so im assuming something is up as well. wanting to strip the engine (never did before) so im asking questions and watching videos.
3000 mile oil changes are a total waste of money with modern engines and oil. ANY conventional out there can easily pass an oil analysis with 5000 miles. I've witnessed 10k on conventional in an 06 Ram 4.7L and it easily passed the oil analysis at my local CAT dealer. A typical Ford F150 oil change monitor will go 10K before it recommends changing the Motorcraft 5W-20 semi syn. Full blown Syn oils can easily go 15K. So 8000 on this oil change isn't that crazy. I'm sure the oil would still qualify as good under a lab analysis for base and additive packages. It's not the 60's.
NeilLB7 NeilLB7 you're out of your damn mind to think a conventional oil would last 10,000 miles. I don't care who you are or what oil you use. All oil breaks down over time. If you're going to use conventional, 3000-4000 miles is ok, anything more is pushing it. Yes Full synthetic can go longer, but 15,000 miles? I don't think so. The most I've ever let my engine go on full synthetic is 6,000 miles. Even on the bottle of oil it says, "Check owners manual." Go by what your OWNERS manual says and the oil change interval that it recommends.
True. Some oils break down much faster than others. The condition of the oil is what determines if it needs to be changed or not; not the miles. Sure you can stick to the 5k or 7k miles intervals for your oil changes and that's fine but if the oil isn't broken down and would likely pass an oil analysis test then it doesn't need top be changed yet. Generally speaking, if the oil's condition looks to be good to the eyes then it's most likely still doing it's job and isn't broken down. If you can still see through the oil in the daylight and it's golden brown, not dark brown or black, then the oil is still good. Heat is what breaks down engine oil, regardless of the engine's operating hours or amount of miles actually driven. So if you use cheap oil for example, it will break down much faster and turn dark much sooner than top brand oil such as Mobile 1 or Castrol, both of which are the best for daily drivers in my opinion. So run the good oil and it will last longer and simply monitor the condition of your oil between oil changes and change it when it looks like it's getting dark colored. You don't have to go by the standard oil change intervals unless you jujst want to be safe and spend more money more frequently. It's up to you but run the good oil or you will be sorry.
Mercedes (diesel) scheduled oil change is 20K interval?
Sixty years ago a truck engine oil drain (or oil change) would have been performed as frequently as every 500 miles. Because of higher quality lubricants, cleaner fuels, improved filter technology and more dependable engines, today it is possible to have an oil drain interval as high as 50,000 miles or more on these same types of vehicles.
Nevertheless, typical oil drain intervals remain around 25,000 miles, and little attention is paid to adjusting this standard due to the diverse environments and other factors these vehicles face. For example, two identically produced vehicles may experience a very different oil life; one may reach close to 50,000 miles, while the other might be starving for fresh oil by 15,000 miles. This variance in engine oil life is the result of many factors from three main areas:
1. Engine Design, Age and Conditions - Engine design characteristics and numerous running conditions can affect oil life factors from exposures to contaminants and other conditions.
2. Driving Patterns and Conditions - Where and how the truck is driven.
3. Oil Properties - Quality and formulation performance of the engine oil.
LB7 you're incorrect!
@ad356 I'm told you have to pull them out the bottom through the oil pan opening.
can i bring my truck to you?
transmission fluid would cease an engine wouldnt it...I got a 5.7ltr ls1 with lifter noise due to previous owner not regularly servicing it, i was happy to see this video as it has put my mind to rest with the noise that is coming out of my engine..I never use to hear it until i changed the oil..So will def give this a try but i think i will run a lifter free product from nulon first..Awesome video
That ticking noise is from the metal on the lifters roller starting to get pitted. No solution will make it go away until you replace the worn parts. Left untreated it will eventually flatten the camshaft lobe and cause a misfire.
Thanks for the video. My 03 Avelanche makes a chirping noise on the passenger side. The dealer said I need a new engine. I have removed the belts to eliminate them as a cause. The noise is coming from the number 2cylinder. Do yo have any suggestions. There is a good video with the chirping sound.
Remove your cylinder heads and replace your lifters with new ones you've soaked in oil.
Is that B12 chemtool harmful to anything around that area anything I should avoid hitting? How did this truck turn out? I have a little oil on a spark plug only on one cylinder so I think it's the valve seal. Gonna be in there so I might try this.
Exact thing just happened to my 08 5.3. Sounds very identical. Gonna pull the left side valve cover and possibly head asap. Hopefully this solves it.
Did it work? Inquiring minds want to know..
I love how you explain things. And you answer some of the 'dumb questions' that people who are probably watching wouldn't know to ask instead of just assuming everyone knows. :)
Bad Flux capacitor
Sounds like the Cardinal grandmeters affected the hydrocoptic marzle veins causing side fumbling of the ambefacient lunar wane shaft. When this happens the nonreversible tremipipe cannot stabilize differential girdle springs!
Great video, but why didn't you spray b12 down all the lifters since you had access?
I work on 5.3 and 6 liter gm motors all the time and we replace the oil pump because they go bad all the time. I would replace the oil pressure sending unit as well since they go bad all the time as well. The tick will go away I will guarantee you that.
***** They have rocker arm issues and Jasper see this a lot.Go on their youtube channel and they have a video on this already.
i have a noise like this i will do it this thank you my friend
@jsnyara I prefer replacing or soaking the lifters overnight, but that's not in the customers budget always.
Good job. I have 2008 5.3 im about to tackle. Christian Brothers Auto quoted me $3000 to $4500. I was told basically that me engines trashed evern though my oil psi is normal and no loss of power.
+Danny Myers It's certainly worth a shot. If you have the skills to pull the heads and replace the lifters that's plan B. Some get bad enough that you have to do that and pushrods.
+briansmobile1 I bet you never heard this lol....Ok lets say ur car has 5qt of oil u drain 2qt of oil and then put 2qt of DIESEL yeap DIESEL....let it idle for 5min and the drain it and clean like Mr.Cleans Bald head and no more lifter noises!!!
my 2010 Tahoe does the same thing. all the 5.3 AFM motors are having the same issues. Poor engineering by Chevy/Gm. The lifters and volm manifold are crap
+Reggie B I dunno bruh, I have had two of these trucks and put 200K on both engines bone stock with regular mobil 1 oil changes and never had ANY issues....both 2002 models, a Z-71 extended cab and a stepside regular cab 2wd.
+bdevlint1501 because yours are 2002 models. you dont have to worry about AFM. AFM lifters are terrible. other than the early engines with AFM , LS motors are the shit!
@jsnyara, I just started using high octane fuel and the spark knock is almost gone. Would suck if I had to pull a trailer on regular 87 octane with the chatter. Seems like a waste to run high octane in my truck, I get 14.8 per gallon... Thanks for the input!
lost it when you first started spraying those lifters hahaha "HAHAH YERRRAHHH"
so funny. awesome video, thanks. definitely going to do this to mine.
thanks you for the video. funny reading all this. My 05 is doing a funny thing. 20 lbs when started. 40 when warms up, but lifter tapping when oil pressure goes from 40 lbs to 44 lbs then it stops. LOL its driving me crazy. I used this video to replace the pcv valve cover and cleaned the rods and lifter tops with the B12, but still taps. About to replace the oil pump and o-ring. 220k miles. I keep yall posted if it fixes it.
How'd it go?
I got this problem when engine is cold, over 400k now
It's the fkn oil tube pick up O ring
@@nathankelly8665
Do the same things happen in the ls4? Have an 06 monte carlo and it's got a tap. Thinking it's a bent rod not sure though
@@dat6oycel118 Yep. Does the tap ever go away or is it always there? Where's your oil pressure running? Should be around 40psi idle.
@@nathankelly8665 funny reading all this. My 05 is doing a funny thing. 20 lbs when started. 40 when warms up, but lifter tapping when oil pressure goes from 40 lbs to 44 lbs then it stops. LOL its driving me crazy. I used this video from briansmobile1 to replace the pcv valve cover and cleaned the rods and lifter tops with the B12, but still taps. About to replace the oil pump and o-ring. 220k miles. I keep yall posted if it fixes it.
@@FrogRogers did the o ring fix it?
@spelunkerd If you use a lighter viscosity oil first number like a synthetic 0W30 it will help with that. Sometimes a 5W20 (like Ford requires on it's trucks and vans with micro lifters) will help get the lube where it needs to be.
Have you ever had a motor fail after running a harsh flush like the gunk through it? You are bold if you ran it through a 180k mile engine :P
no, never...
i do it in my van once in a while.
it has 287k miles and it runs without any problems
Hi Brian my 95 Nissan 240sx make that sound but not that bad and that came from the front of the engine and I don't know if is the timing chain or valve but ones start the car and when the oil came up the sound start up, any idea?
You're going through a lot of work and using a wholly and completely inappropriate product for a lifter rattle. Number one, as an aside, the reason B12 clean so well is its 85% lacquer thinner which is why you don't put it inside your engine because it will melt all of the seals. It does work great the fuel tank but it is extremely dilute. If you want to clear a lifter rattle you don't take the valve cover off the engine you add a half a quart to a full quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. It has been clearing lifter rattles since they invented hydraulic lifters. Huge Advantage with Marvel Mystery Oil you can actually drive the engine with it in the oil. The reason you can do this is because Marvel Mystery Oil is motor oil. It was originally designed for World War 1 aircraft engines and not long after World War 1 it was bottled as Marvel Mystery Oil. Before you put a wrench on an engine... Try it first. Recently I had a man come up with a lifter rattle in a Land Rover. We put half a quart into the engine and it stopped before we could close the Hood. It cleans the internals of the engine better than anything else I have seen and has that huge advantage of being able to add it to the oil and drive it that way. You cannot do that with motor flush because you will damage the engine if you leave motor flush in longer than 10 to 20 minutes, most especially if you put the engine under load with it in it. You may get lucky but you also might lose a bearing or two. If you put the Marvel Mystery Oil in the engine and you still have the noise, you most likely have a mechanical issue not an oil flow issue. But in over 50 years I have only seen less than 5 occurrences of a lifter clatter be caused by anything other than an oil flow issue. The 5.3 also has an unusual issue with the oil pickup tube o-ring hardening and allowing air to flow past it which lowers your oil pressure and oil flow volume which can raise temperature of the oil and cause it to Coke up and plug the lifters. B12 chemtool, being what it consists of, has go business inside the crankcase of an engine or inside a transmission. I have only ever seen one person put a half a bottle of chemtool in there crankcase it melted the seals. And I've also heard of it happening to a transmission or two. B12 chemtool only goes in the fuel tank where is used from the spray can.
Thank You. But more importantly, my seals thank you!
Rislone is your friend.
@@blackmanops3749 did you try it
@@semajd5995 I did. The issue is still there. I never checked the o-ring fix. Just been putting up with the clacking. Maybe this summer...
The clacking did not go away immediately but it did go away the next day. It now only happens upon start up after the truck has sat a day. And even then, only briefly and not as loudly. It goes away completely after a few seconds. I use Valvoline 5w30 and NAPA filters every 6K miles. Thanx man. I owe you a steak dinner next time you are in SoCal.
Change the oil pickup O ring i changed mine problem solved
Curtis Chaney Thanks for the tip! A tick isn't always from the same cause.
briansmobile1that's true it was just a tip though
how much engin flush did you use? 6 qts?
with 856 comments I'm sure you've heard it. But good job on the video. And I don't say that often. Learn something new and had a laugh. Good job thanks