Thank you so much for this video! my lifters were tapping and the mechanic was going to charge us 2500 to fix it - I showed this video to my husband he watched it several times -,followed it and fixed our problem for just $75! thanks for all your help
Does your truck have low oil pressure? Guy in this video has no idea what he's talking about. His tick went away from a new oil filter not the spray. Noise is from air mixing with oil. Oil puck up tube is suckling air from a bad O ring. Driver side front lifters get the oil first. First to fill with air and make noise. O ring only cost $3.50
My 2008 Tahoe sounded even worse than this one. I did everything that you did, except didn't pull the rods, just shot some Seafoam engine down the rods a few times, put her back together, added a little motor flush to the crank case, let it idle for about 10 minus then took a freeway drive for about 30 minutes, punching the gas here and there to force through whatever was blocking the oil flow, and NO ticking, pinging whatever you want to call it. 100% FIXED. Idle was rough prior to this and has been reduced by about 40-50% too. Saved myself a $3000 repair bill I couldn't afford. Totally stoked. Thanks for this video. BTW, I'm handy but never have done anything with an engine before, not even an oil change, so anyone with some patience and the right tools can do it given the proper motivation.
I've slowly been watching all of your uploads as I have time and I must say, you are the absolute MAN! Watching you and others like you, (ErictheCarGuy), really restore my pride in being a Tech. You guys show people there are honest guys out there and they do great work. I also appreciate the fact that you also mini-reviewed the products you used. I love Sea-Foam and B-12 is fantastic. I never had too much of a belief for any motor flush working, but you convinced me. Thanks bro
Absolutely the best explanation I have found on TH-cam! I have been stressing over this problem with a new truck I bought thinking I made a huge mistake. Thanks Brian for this very helpful video!!!
Reminds me of back in the nineties, 265 Valiant, Ausse version. Spray carb cleaner down beside the pushrod onto the hydraulic lifter at idle, did the job. Recall using a bit of ATF in the oil, gunked up Rover V8, (had sat for years) cleaned the crap out after we preprimed the motor, ahh, the memories.
I love how you explain things. And you answer some of the 'dumb questions' that people who are probably watching wouldn't know to ask instead of just assuming everyone knows. :)
2006 Envoy, same exact cylinder as your video. I did exactly as you suggested, except I didn't have to pull the rockers. I could easily see that the lifter was low and allowing the pushrod to be loose. I was able to put the straw straight through the rocker into the pushrod. Replaced the valve cover, flushed the engine with motor medic by Gunk. Fifteen seconds into starting the engine it quit tapping. oil change and it's all good. Thanks for the video, I'm actually kinda stunned that it was this easy.
I want to thank you for all your videos, I am going to try this on my tahoe since I have the same problem. BTW, you saved my volvo xc90 twice! Thanks Brian!!
THANK YOU SIR. I LOVE people like U. Guess what I did this weekend, I thought it was the water pump. Spent $200 new pump, hoses and anti-freeze. started her up and to no avail, the tapping was still present. To me, not all was loss cause now my cooling system is in tip top summer shape. it's ready for those 110 degree days stuck in traffic. OH YEAH. THANKS Im a new subscriber now
This is probably the best video I've found by far... My 08 5.3 ticks so hard. I'm determined to tackle it this weekend and see if what you did will work for mine also. Thank you
Awesome video! After spraying you should drain all old oil, tighten drain bolt, pour the flush DIRECTLY on the lifters and let it soak for a little before pouring good oil over them. Button up the valve cover. Then fill as normal and do the recommended flush instructions
Thank you. It encouraged my to do my 2000 Tahoe, did both sides. Noise was still there, ended up that one bolt was loose on the flexplate. I watched some of you videos. Really good, thank you
Brian- I had this issue, and following this video I meticulously cleaned every lifter and pushrod in the engine. The lifter noise stopped...for about 50 miles. I then discovered that recently GM issued a bulletin on lifter noise problems on the 5.3. Apparently, the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube, where it meets the block, flattens out and it starts sucking air, decreasing oil flow to the top of the engine. Results: lifter noise. I replaced the o-ring, sure enough, problem solved.
I just came to say thanks for the video. I had no idea about lifters or what their purpose was but now I'm well informed and about to tackle the problem on my truck.
Great video. I dont have that truck or that problem but came across the video and liked the way you presented everything and all the tips. I'm sure it will come handy in future. Good job!!
I don't know about the methods in this video... but I do know this... the poster in the comment section who suggested MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) this "issshhhh" is on point. Added a quart to the oil in my 2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L (180K miles) that had lifter noise. Also added 12 oz. to a full tank of gas... After adding I allowed the vehicle to run idle for approx. 10-15min... then drove the vehicle for approx. 30 min and to my surprise the oil pressure ran at 30-35 psi idle and 40 psi while driving. Guess what, no lifter noise at all... the noise was gone by the time I arrived home. You can pick up a 1 quart bottle at Walmart for $3.88... Cheapest quick fix ever... I will be using this with every oil change and every other fill-up in the gas tank...
I have a 2004 5.3 8:58 Yukon that had a very loud tick passenger side- this worked for me- after the motor flush and B-12 truck runs quiet! Saved me a lot of money- this was my last shot before having the lifters replaced! Thank you!!
Thanks. Brian, I hope you show more videos effective like this video. I drive 2010 escalade esv V8. this week I got a noise from passenger side. tapping sound. then, I got a invoice for 3,600 dollars for repair from auto repair shop. I do not know how much value left for my 12 years old vehicle. but 3,600 dollars is too much for me. I watched 20+ youtube videos. this video is best of best. and it works with 15 dollars instead of 3,600 dollars. I do not know why auto repair shop do not suggest this method first. it is worthy to try and save cost significantly. what I did is that. (1) I sprayed B12 Chemtool in the hole, where tapping sound, it was #6 passenger side. (2) assemble cover back to original place. I leave it 1-2 hours or so. (3) pour 1L motor push & 5min & 2K RPM 2min, still tapping, 2K RPM 2times more. (4) change new engine oil 5L + transmission oil 1L. + oil filter change (5) nothing changed, still tapping, (6) 8 hours passed, tapping sound gone. I spend 6 dollars B12 Chemtool + 9 dollars Motor Flush, total 15 dollars instead of 3,600 invoice. this video save money, and when there is no tapping anymore, I feel exciting, it was embrassing extra budget request this week. but with this video, I enjoyed. thanks again.
Thank you Brian, my 07 silverado with a 4.8 was making the same noise, started when under acceleration then within a week would tick at idle. It seemed to be coming from the # 2 exhaust so I did the motor flush, being it the least intrusive, then the chemtool and in 50 miles the tick was gone. Thank you so much.
Master mechanic here 44 yrs experience. First off let me say I like the man in the video, I like his attitude. But here is my first analysis from the start of the vid is OIL PRESSURE, next after that valve cover was removed I saw NO OIL laying in the upper cupped area of the rockers! Meaning the rockers aren't getting oil and of course the lifters cannot get oil either being no oil gets to the top in order to drain down! The sound I also heard at the vid start was not lifter noise but rocker tappet noise. That engine is not getting upper oil! Oil pump issue here! Thanks
Earl, On point Sir. I posted a couple weeks ago also. In our case it was the "O" ring (about the size of a quarter) on the top of the pick up tube. It was extremely hardened and cracked in half. Remove oil pan and pick up tube (easy) and look at "O" ring. It's getting all the oil it needs now. No noise whatsoever since replacing it several weeks ago.
10.6.14. Great observation! I thought that the upper end looked a little light on lubricant when the rocker cover was pulled. Oil pump relief circuit is a known trouble source on these engines, as is the o-ring for the pickup tube.
Brian your videos are awesome, if I may offer a suggestion to help you avoid future headaches: tape the straw to the applicator nozzle before spraying that way you wont lose the straw down into the engine if there is a blow out between the nozzle and straw
Dude your a bad ass! You know your stuff. My 2000 silverado is doing the same thing. Could I try just putting sea foam in the oil right before I change it and possibly clear it out?
Great video but wanted to share my experience. My 2005 Tahoe 5.3L had a ticking valve. The first or second valve on the drivers side. Would come and go but very irritating. I replace the valve cover on that side and tried the Chemtool spray to no avail. The problem is the O-ring on the oil pickup tube in the oil pan. I dropped the oil pan and found the o-ring was cracked which was causing lower oil pressure and the oil not to travel to the front lifters. I replaced it and no more ticking.
that you said is my solution I think everyone should check for that. if your oil level is fluctuating you bet it's an cracked o ring or damaged oil sensor or oil pump. thanks bro....
That is the solution to low oil pressure... which you ARE correct! But if you have good oil pressure, these lifters CAN still be noisy due to sludge buildup... Cleaning them will help with that!
Adam Brock Holy crap, same exact year and model and am having a bitch of a time getting rid of this lifter tick. It’s definitely driver side. Did you drop the pan or go thru the front?
My 2000 Suburban is making the same noise.After watching this video several times I finally got bold enough to pull my valve cover off. OMG the sludge was so thick I used 5 cans of the B12. I used the flush 2 times changing the oil and filter each time the noise is much better and my oil pressure is almost back to normal. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Thanks Brian, Enjoyed watching, but more this provided the solution for my problem my 4.0 Jeep Cherokee. Just follwed your instructions and applied to my motor. What a difference. As a professional your very quick, I'm abit slower but got the job done! I used a piece of cardboard and kept my pushrods in order along with its mated rocker. Regards, Doug
you sure have a lot of faith in that red straw attached to that carb cleaner spraying down that tiny hole lol Damn thing would have fallen off if that was me.
So true for me, I installed a mellling pump and it took my oil pressure from 28PSI on 197k on the engine it also boosted my oil to 50-60 plus psi, annoying tapping of the lifters gone. done 6 months ago, btw I have Royal Purple 5/30 oil.
super detailed so it was very helpful. no more noise. so thanks so much for the video. my question is how much would this be for a mechanic to do it at a shop.
Amazing Results!!! I do most of the work on my own vehicles, but I'm pretty hesitant to get inside the engine. My 2005 Suburban suffered from increasing ticking...it started out a small periodic tick and became a noisy tick I could hear when driving on the freeway. It was getting worse and worse. So, I was about to bite the bullet and take it in for whatever the mechanic had to do. this was not an exciting prospect. Would it cost $500? $1000? More? When I saw this video, it gave me hope. I went and bought the carb cleaner and engine flush, followed the exact steps laid out in the video. After the oil change, I was surprised that there was no more noise, but figured that might be due to idling and the new oil. The real test came when I took a drive to a nearby city on the freeway pulling a trailer. Loads usually induce the racket if nothing else does. No Noise! After a half hour on the freeway and 20 minutes of city driving, I heard a very slight tick once while idling. I think I'll do the flush again at the next oil change. Total cost: Under $10 besides normal oil change. I'm so happy! Thanks for this great video.
Lifter cleaning: Use the pushrod as a "straw" to *directly inject* the cleaning fluid, AND to *push the lifter down to work it*, pumping the cleaner through it. IMO K1 Clear Kerosene is a great "flushing" fluid; drain 2 QTS oil, replace with same amount of K1 CLEAR Kerosene (not the cheap pink colored). Also- to check for a bent pushrod- clean, then roll them slowly by hand on a piece of quality window glass. *OLD SCHOOL STUFF.*
Ding , Ding, Ding ! We have a Winner ! You my friend win the "Wise Old Owl Award " for thinking outside the box with this clever idea ! Thanks! 👨🎓🔧 🦉🦉🦉
@@moparbee1523 Wow! 8 years later? I just thought, the way fuel injectors are cleaned, just pump a cleaner through the hydraulic valve lifter too. I guess it's only relevant to older systems that use a component like a hydraulic valve lifter. I could imagine other hydraulic/oil actuated components such as a cam phaser or a VVT/VTEC controller can get clogged up with coke from overheated, dirty oil.
Hey Brian thanks for providing us the public with great Repair Videos! Anyway had a question for ya, I have a 95 Honda Accord V6 well every time I first start the Car for the day I can hear the Hydraulic Lifters tapping very loudly. Honda switched from a solid valve train to hydraulic lifters for these V6 models in 95 thru 97 so they can't be Adjusted. Well when the car warms up the tapping completely stops and I don't hear it again until after the car has sat for about 4 or 5 hours. I've tried seafoam in the Crank case numerous times and also a product called justice brothers engine tune that suppose to quiet noisy lifters and have had NO luck. What do I do!!??
Problem was the O ring on the pick up tube. Thanks for your video and thanks to your posters. My Buddy and I recently fixed his noisy 5.3. It had the same noise as in your video. It was louder during load while going up a hill. It was the O ring located on the pick up tube. It was cracked and came out in two pieces. There was no way it could have been allowing oil pump to efficiently operate. Factory oil pan gasket and O ring were very reasonable. Problem solved. Not a hard job. Probably a 2 - 3 hour job.
Great video Brian! Suggestion: Use this sequence to clean the crud out of the lifters - 1. Solvent (Berryman, Gumout, etc.) 2. Light spray Oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc.) 3. Rubber tipped air gun on the push rod ends to blow the crud away. Repeat the sequence 3 or 4 times, and of course change the engine oil & filter when you're done. The solvent is great at dissolving the crud, but the oil has enough viscosity to carry the crud away. Adding the light oil and compressed air really clears it out. Thanks.
well brian, i sub to you because ypu were the only dude on youtube i found Funny and with Experience. aint nothing cooler than watching someone fix a ride and laugh at the same time
I had the same thing happen to my truck, but I put half a can of seafoam in it and drove it for a hundred miles and did a oil change and that stuff really worked great. It was running smoother, quieter, and there was a lot less crank time.
I just had a collapsed lifter replaced in my Chevy 5.3 with only 6k miles on the clock. Actually two lifters replaced, as GM said the opposing cylinder lifter had to be replaced too. Great that this was 100% warranty, sucks that it happened at all.
Thank your for your time making this video, I been having this issue on my 2003 Chevy Suburban, I'm going to give it a shoot and hope solves my problem, I'll get back with the results.
Right on.I always feel better about things when I'm able to do a thorough job. That's why I like working on my own cars so much more than on a customer one. I DO have some customers that don't even ask price till I'm done and just want it done right. I LOVE THAT TOO! I save them the most money because I can just go at it right and it won't have to be done again for a long time- plus you can combine labor times if needed and have liberty to choose where the parts come from to get the best deal.
I recommend riselone every oil change on an older engine works very well at getting rid of lifter tick. Or you can use ATF and change at shorter intervals and that helps too.
i have a 2009 gmc sierra 4x4 sle 1500. it only has 106,000 miles on it and i have tsaken good care of it. all sudden it started idling really rough and i could hear lifter tapping loudly. it threw p0301 cylinder 1 misfire and a p0449 evap emission solenoid. i swapped coil packs no change, then it started throwing just p0449 and then a crankshaft position sensor code as well.. i put new evap solenoid on, but didn't fix problem. the p301 cylinder misfire code is back and now throwing a p0121 throttle body position sensor. the lifter is still tapping loudly and i'm lost on what to do. i know this has been a common problem with the 2009 models. help.
@kenman1717 I agree with you! You change the oil filter every time you change the oil. AT LEAST change the filter a reasonable interval and top off eigh?
got 350k plus out of GM 5.3 .. They have known oil pick up tube o ring issue causing air bubble s in oil stream. After 2006 there is a small oil screen under oil pressure sender which supplies lifers . Clean it with brake cleaner. GM wants 5W30 oil only use it.
ive done this method on kohler command v twins with hyd lifters.....people never change the oil in their lawn equipment and when the oil gets like petroleum jelly hyd lifters no workie like they supposed to!!! great video brian!!!!
Love your vids....question for ya, on a 08 Tahoe, 5.3, got what looks like a collapsed lifter on #6. I've watched your video on replacing the intake gasket and was curious if you could suggest how and what needs removing to get to the lifters? Valley pan? Cylinder head?...thanks for any help/suggestions.
i went thru on my 06 silverado (5.3L) and threw some cleaner thru all my pushrods, then buttoned everything up and did the engine flush. it still ticks a tad...but i'm sure most of what i'm hearing now is just from my longtube headers. runs like a champ though and she's significantly more quiet at idle. thanks for the thorough video man...lots of help!
I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 5.3L V-8 Vortec. I use synthetic 5W30 Mobil or Pennzoil full synthetic. This is due to the engines design having tighter clearances for oil to move around. Every other oil change I use Marvel Mystery Oil in place of one quart. Keeps things clean and well lubed. I also add 6oz to a full tank to keep my fuel system working well. 10 years 172972 miles ZERO ISSUES.
+TONYLOVE1 Same engine here. I actually do the same thing - except I use about 1/2 a quart of MMO at each oil change with straight Castrol GTX 5w30 (every 3,000 miles)
Hahahaha! Laughed through this whole video (and still am) Love your little jokes, gestures and sound FX. Great tip on the lifter cleaning from the top and the pushrod as a straw.
Hi I have a better and sur shot 5 minute solution for this problem.It will clean up the gunk repair abrasions of the piston and block and rings improve compression reduce friction reduce noise and improve mileage upto 10 %.No more cold start woes . You will have best starts even in coldest temperatures of -45 degrees Celsius.Oil will become secondary lubricant. Have treat many pick up trucks with many at 280000 kms or more .
Awesome job. I have an '02 Yukon with the 6.0L, and the lifters sound pretty loud. Would this procedure be effective if you just sprayed the B-12 through the oil port of the rocker arm with the rocker arm and pushrod in place? I'm not sure what the torque spec is on tightening those rocker arms, so the idea of having to re-establish them correctly makes me mildly nervous.
Hi, did you ever get an answer to this. ? He doesn't say anything about torque or position of the engine prior to removing them or installing the back up. Thanks
+Ricardo Pay A buddy of mine and I looked up the specs, and I think it said 22 ft lbs. I removed the two rockers and pushrods that we're worn and replaced them with new ones. I torqued them down to between 23 ft lbs I think. I still have the clacking, so when I get time I'm going to do the rest of them on the passenger side. One other thing to note, make sure the valve spring is relaxed when you remove the rocker. If not you run a higher risk of stripping out the retaining bolt.
Good job. I have 2008 5.3 im about to tackle. Christian Brothers Auto quoted me $3000 to $4500. I was told basically that me engines trashed evern though my oil psi is normal and no loss of power.
+Danny Myers It's certainly worth a shot. If you have the skills to pull the heads and replace the lifters that's plan B. Some get bad enough that you have to do that and pushrods.
+briansmobile1 I bet you never heard this lol....Ok lets say ur car has 5qt of oil u drain 2qt of oil and then put 2qt of DIESEL yeap DIESEL....let it idle for 5min and the drain it and clean like Mr.Cleans Bald head and no more lifter noises!!!
my 2010 Tahoe does the same thing. all the 5.3 AFM motors are having the same issues. Poor engineering by Chevy/Gm. The lifters and volm manifold are crap
+Reggie B I dunno bruh, I have had two of these trucks and put 200K on both engines bone stock with regular mobil 1 oil changes and never had ANY issues....both 2002 models, a Z-71 extended cab and a stepside regular cab 2wd.
+bdevlint1501 because yours are 2002 models. you dont have to worry about AFM. AFM lifters are terrible. other than the early engines with AFM , LS motors are the shit!
Put some Seafoam or MMO in the sump and run It to heat a few cycles. Mine cleared the lifters doing this. You can also quick flush It (20 minutos) with 1 Qt of Gasoline as I did To my Taurus. Works way Better then diesel to clean lifters.
Sounds like the Cardinal grandmeters affected the hydrocoptic marzle veins causing side fumbling of the ambefacient lunar wane shaft. When this happens the nonreversible tremipipe cannot stabilize differential girdle springs!
That ticking noise is from the metal on the lifters roller starting to get pitted. No solution will make it go away until you replace the worn parts. Left untreated it will eventually flatten the camshaft lobe and cause a misfire.
The biggest issue is that the lifters on the front of this motor, especially the 2nd gen version, get starved of oil and seize up on the front cylinders because of poor oiling methods. GM knew this, and replaced a bunch of these with better oil pumps or higher pressure pumps when they would fail within the 36000 mile warranty. If you have oil pressure under 30lb at idle, your front lifters are not getting enough oil to fill up, and you will hear knocking, which eventually leads to seized lifters.
I have a 2010 that gets probably a little better than 20 at idle after it’s warmed up. It’s always done this. 97k miles. Oil pressure is fine while driving.
Why not try my sure shot solution. A nano treatment will super lubricate by sitting inside the tiny pores of metal and keep it always lubricated. Will also repair the piston and rings and improve compression and mileage. Very easy cold starts even in -45 degree Celsius.Extend the life of engine with least maintenance and extended oil change intervals.Actually oil will become secondary .Treated lot of pick up trucks Ford Dodge GM Toyota old and new and some at 400000 kms. Cost reasonable time required 5 minutes and DIY. Contact for more details
It's not the lifters. It's the oil pump O ring leaking air into the oil lines. Oil foam goes to the hydrolic lifters. The air compress in liftee and you get a tick sound. Higher rpm the oil pressure is greater than 40 psi the tick goes away and comes back when at idle.
Brian, Thank you for sharing this info. A lifter in my 01 Silverado 4.8 started ticking badly like inthe video. I took off the coil pack plate and the v/c but then reconnected the coils. I started the engine. The #5 intake lifter wasn't pumping up apparantly. I didn't remove the rocker but did shoot B12 down its bleed hole. I also shot compressed air into it. I let it soak for a bit and also added 1/2 qt of ATF to the oil. I also added a little bit an STP additive that claims to quiet lifters
hi brian love all your videos, have a question i have an 01 silverado with the 4.8 vortec with 166k miles and the lifters seems to have some clatter or shutter when it warms up. i have great oil pressure and it runs really well and doesnt smoke at all, is there anything i can try to do? since ive owned it ive changed the oil every 3-4k miles and ive done a sea foam treatment. -Jeremy
@@nathankelly8665 funny reading all this. My 05 is doing a funny thing. 20 lbs when started. 40 when warms up, but lifter tapping when oil pressure goes from 40 lbs to 44 lbs then it stops. LOL its driving me crazy. I used this video from briansmobile1 to replace the pcv valve cover and cleaned the rods and lifter tops with the B12, but still taps. About to replace the oil pump and o-ring. 220k miles. I keep yall posted if it fixes it.
I work on 5.3 and 6 liter gm motors all the time and we replace the oil pump because they go bad all the time. I would replace the oil pressure sending unit as well since they go bad all the time as well. The tick will go away I will guarantee you that.
If you weren't recording and guiding us through this in a video, how long would you say this process takes? I currently live out of my vehicle on the road and I'm just curious how I should prepare for this job. Also, are their any other processes you would recommend along with this one? Or just B-12 the journals (or soak rods and lifters in diesel fuel overnight), engine flush, and then maybe seafoam the crankcase along with the fresh oil and filter?
Hi Brian ! Thanks for this vid ! I would love to see your way of doing it with a Ford 5.4 2V (2002 E250) with Hydraulic lash adjuster. Would you recommend a flush also or is it better to change them all ? Only one ticking sound like your 5.3. Merci beaucoup l'ami !
3000 mile oil changes are a total waste of money with modern engines and oil. ANY conventional out there can easily pass an oil analysis with 5000 miles. I've witnessed 10k on conventional in an 06 Ram 4.7L and it easily passed the oil analysis at my local CAT dealer. A typical Ford F150 oil change monitor will go 10K before it recommends changing the Motorcraft 5W-20 semi syn. Full blown Syn oils can easily go 15K. So 8000 on this oil change isn't that crazy. I'm sure the oil would still qualify as good under a lab analysis for base and additive packages. It's not the 60's.
NeilLB7 NeilLB7 you're out of your damn mind to think a conventional oil would last 10,000 miles. I don't care who you are or what oil you use. All oil breaks down over time. If you're going to use conventional, 3000-4000 miles is ok, anything more is pushing it. Yes Full synthetic can go longer, but 15,000 miles? I don't think so. The most I've ever let my engine go on full synthetic is 6,000 miles. Even on the bottle of oil it says, "Check owners manual." Go by what your OWNERS manual says and the oil change interval that it recommends.
True. Some oils break down much faster than others. The condition of the oil is what determines if it needs to be changed or not; not the miles. Sure you can stick to the 5k or 7k miles intervals for your oil changes and that's fine but if the oil isn't broken down and would likely pass an oil analysis test then it doesn't need top be changed yet. Generally speaking, if the oil's condition looks to be good to the eyes then it's most likely still doing it's job and isn't broken down. If you can still see through the oil in the daylight and it's golden brown, not dark brown or black, then the oil is still good. Heat is what breaks down engine oil, regardless of the engine's operating hours or amount of miles actually driven. So if you use cheap oil for example, it will break down much faster and turn dark much sooner than top brand oil such as Mobile 1 or Castrol, both of which are the best for daily drivers in my opinion. So run the good oil and it will last longer and simply monitor the condition of your oil between oil changes and change it when it looks like it's getting dark colored. You don't have to go by the standard oil change intervals unless you jujst want to be safe and spend more money more frequently. It's up to you but run the good oil or you will be sorry.
Sixty years ago a truck engine oil drain (or oil change) would have been performed as frequently as every 500 miles. Because of higher quality lubricants, cleaner fuels, improved filter technology and more dependable engines, today it is possible to have an oil drain interval as high as 50,000 miles or more on these same types of vehicles. Nevertheless, typical oil drain intervals remain around 25,000 miles, and little attention is paid to adjusting this standard due to the diverse environments and other factors these vehicles face. For example, two identically produced vehicles may experience a very different oil life; one may reach close to 50,000 miles, while the other might be starving for fresh oil by 15,000 miles. This variance in engine oil life is the result of many factors from three main areas: 1. Engine Design, Age and Conditions - Engine design characteristics and numerous running conditions can affect oil life factors from exposures to contaminants and other conditions. 2. Driving Patterns and Conditions - Where and how the truck is driven. 3. Oil Properties - Quality and formulation performance of the engine oil.
great video guy!!!!! Just what I needed for my 2004 Tahoe this weekend!!!!!! I'll be performing this job on Sat. morning.........this will save me a lot of time and money hopefully!!!!
with 856 comments I'm sure you've heard it. But good job on the video. And I don't say that often. Learn something new and had a laugh. Good job thanks
jj vwguy 2008 trailblazer with 5.3. 94,000 pampered miles, full synthetic since new changed at recommended intervals. Engine starting tapping like a mofo last week. The design is garbage for this many people to be having issues.
Thank you so much for this video! my lifters were tapping and the mechanic was going to charge us 2500 to fix it - I showed this video to my husband he watched it several times -,followed it and fixed our problem for just $75! thanks for all your help
Do u live in la I have the same problem right now and I don’t know how to do it
He shows you in the video exactly what to do.
Did your low oil pressure light come on as well?
Does your truck have low oil pressure? Guy in this video has no idea what he's talking about. His tick went away from a new oil filter not the spray. Noise is from air mixing with oil. Oil puck up tube is suckling air from a bad O ring. Driver side front lifters get the oil first. First to fill with air and make noise. O ring only cost $3.50
@port nut Under warranty: They all do that it's fine drive it. Out of warranty: O that's bad you need to fix that right away $2500
I know this is old but you're still helping people and I really appreciate man!
My 2008 Tahoe sounded even worse than this one. I did everything that you did, except didn't pull the rods, just shot some Seafoam engine down the rods a few times, put her back together, added a little motor flush to the crank case, let it idle for about 10 minus then took a freeway drive for about 30 minutes, punching the gas here and there to force through whatever was blocking the oil flow, and NO ticking, pinging whatever you want to call it. 100% FIXED. Idle was rough prior to this and has been reduced by about 40-50% too. Saved myself a $3000 repair bill I couldn't afford. Totally stoked. Thanks for this video. BTW, I'm handy but never have done anything with an engine before, not even an oil change, so anyone with some patience and the right tools can do it given the proper motivation.
I've slowly been watching all of your uploads as I have time and I must say, you are the absolute MAN! Watching you and others like you, (ErictheCarGuy), really restore my pride in being a Tech. You guys show people there are honest guys out there and they do great work. I also appreciate the fact that you also mini-reviewed the products you used. I love Sea-Foam and B-12 is fantastic. I never had too much of a belief for any motor flush working, but you convinced me. Thanks bro
Absolutely the best explanation I have found on TH-cam! I have been stressing over this problem with a new truck I bought thinking I made a huge mistake. Thanks Brian for this very helpful video!!!
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Reminds me of back in the nineties, 265 Valiant, Ausse version. Spray carb cleaner down beside the pushrod onto the hydraulic lifter at idle, did the job. Recall using a bit of ATF in the oil, gunked up Rover V8, (had sat for years) cleaned the crap out after we preprimed the motor, ahh, the memories.
I love how you explain things. And you answer some of the 'dumb questions' that people who are probably watching wouldn't know to ask instead of just assuming everyone knows. :)
2006 Envoy, same exact cylinder as your video. I did exactly as you suggested, except I didn't have to pull the rockers. I could easily see that the lifter was low and allowing the pushrod to be loose. I was able to put the straw straight through the rocker into the pushrod.
Replaced the valve cover, flushed the engine with motor medic by Gunk. Fifteen seconds into starting the engine it quit tapping. oil change and it's all good. Thanks for the video, I'm actually kinda stunned that it was this easy.
and AGAIN, I've learned some more great stuff on youtube today!! Thanks!!
I want to thank you for all your videos, I am going to try this on my tahoe since I have the same problem. BTW, you saved my volvo xc90 twice!
Thanks Brian!!
THANK YOU SIR. I LOVE people like U. Guess what I did this weekend, I thought it was the water pump. Spent $200 new pump, hoses and anti-freeze. started her up and to no avail, the tapping was still present. To me, not all was loss cause now my cooling system is in tip top summer shape. it's ready for those 110 degree days stuck in traffic. OH YEAH. THANKS Im a new subscriber now
This is probably the best video I've found by far... My 08 5.3 ticks so hard. I'm determined to tackle it this weekend and see if what you did will work for mine also. Thank you
Awesome video! After spraying you should drain all old oil, tighten drain bolt, pour the flush DIRECTLY on the lifters and let it soak for a little before pouring good oil over them. Button up the valve cover. Then fill as normal and do the recommended flush instructions
11:46 getting excited about spraying. was waiting for the little red tube to pop off and fall into the push rod hole.
Just came across you're channel about 1 week ago. I have to say you make the best videos by far mate. Keep up the good work :)
Thank you. It encouraged my to do my 2000 Tahoe, did both sides. Noise was still there, ended up that one bolt was loose on the flexplate. I watched some of you videos. Really good, thank you
Brian- I had this issue, and following this video I meticulously cleaned every lifter and pushrod in the engine. The lifter noise stopped...for about 50 miles. I then discovered that recently GM issued a bulletin on lifter noise problems on the 5.3. Apparently, the o-ring on the oil pick-up tube, where it meets the block, flattens out and it starts sucking air, decreasing oil flow to the top of the engine. Results: lifter noise. I replaced the o-ring, sure enough, problem solved.
Hey you still alive? Would this be the reason why my lifters start to tick after going 70 mph? When I lower my speed ticking goes away
thats freakin awesome! we texans love bm1! ive learned so much from his videos too.....love all the tool reviews and time saving tips!
I just came to say thanks for the video. I had no idea about lifters or what their purpose was but now I'm well informed and about to tackle the problem on my truck.
this is happening right now to my 2004 Chevy Silverado. ...so glad you posted this video.....WINNING!!!
Great video. I dont have that truck or that problem but came across the video and liked the way you presented everything and all the tips. I'm sure it will come handy in future. Good job!!
I don't know about the methods in this video... but I do know this... the poster in the comment section who suggested MMO (Marvel Mystery Oil) this "issshhhh" is on point. Added a quart to the oil in my 2005 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L (180K miles) that had lifter noise. Also added 12 oz. to a full tank of gas... After adding I allowed the vehicle to run idle for approx. 10-15min... then drove the vehicle for approx. 30 min and to my surprise the oil pressure ran at 30-35 psi idle and 40 psi while driving. Guess what, no lifter noise at all... the noise was gone by the time I arrived home. You can pick up a 1 quart bottle at Walmart for $3.88... Cheapest quick fix ever... I will be using this with every oil change and every other fill-up in the gas tank...
I have used for other things but looks like I'll be using it more as an extra oil additive
Didn't that person post put ATF fluid in with the oil and MMO in the gas tank
@@tommybokelman5565 no he said add MMO to the oil
Can use both wsys.
Its a mild detergent.
Will cause rubber to swell too.
I have a 2004 5.3 8:58 Yukon that had a very loud tick passenger side- this worked for me- after the motor flush and B-12 truck runs quiet! Saved me a lot of money- this was my last shot before having the lifters replaced! Thank you!!
Way to go! You're welcome!
Thanks. Brian, I hope you show more videos effective like this video. I drive 2010 escalade esv V8. this week I got a noise from passenger side. tapping sound. then, I got a invoice for 3,600 dollars for repair from auto repair shop. I do not know how much value left for my 12 years old vehicle. but 3,600 dollars is too much for me. I watched 20+ youtube videos. this video is best of best. and it works with 15 dollars instead of 3,600 dollars. I do not know why auto repair shop do not suggest this method first. it is worthy to try and save cost significantly. what I did is that. (1) I sprayed B12 Chemtool in the hole, where tapping sound, it was #6 passenger side. (2) assemble cover back to original place. I leave it 1-2 hours or so. (3) pour 1L motor push & 5min & 2K RPM 2min, still tapping, 2K RPM 2times more. (4) change new engine oil 5L + transmission oil 1L. + oil filter change (5) nothing changed, still tapping, (6) 8 hours passed, tapping sound gone. I spend 6 dollars B12 Chemtool + 9 dollars Motor Flush, total 15 dollars instead of 3,600 invoice. this video save money, and when there is no tapping anymore, I feel exciting, it was embrassing extra budget request this week. but with this video, I enjoyed. thanks again.
Thank you Brian, my 07 silverado with a 4.8 was making the same noise, started when under acceleration then within a week would tick at idle. It seemed to be coming from the # 2 exhaust so I did the motor flush, being it the least intrusive, then the chemtool and in 50 miles the tick was gone. Thank you so much.
Brian, Great video. Love the humor.
Thanks a lot for taking the time on this video. It really helped clear things up!
Nice work Brian, as usual! What do you torque the rocker hold down bolts to, and what about checking for clearance?
Master mechanic here 44 yrs experience. First off let me say I like the man in the video, I like his attitude. But here is my first analysis from the start of the vid is OIL PRESSURE, next after that valve cover was removed I saw NO OIL laying in the upper cupped area of the rockers! Meaning the rockers aren't getting oil and of course the lifters cannot get oil either being no oil gets to the top in order to drain down! The sound I also heard at the vid start was not lifter noise but rocker tappet noise. That engine is not getting upper oil! Oil pump issue here! Thanks
Earl,
On point Sir. I posted a couple weeks ago also. In our case it was the "O" ring (about the size of a quarter) on the top of the pick up tube. It was extremely hardened and cracked in half. Remove oil pan and pick up tube (easy) and look at "O" ring. It's getting all the oil it needs now. No noise whatsoever since replacing it several weeks ago.
10.6.14. Great observation! I thought that the upper end looked a little light on lubricant when the rocker cover was pulled. Oil pump relief circuit is a known trouble source on these engines, as is the o-ring for the pickup tube.
Sorry i disagree when a oil pump gives in it's 9 out of 10 times that you have a WAY bigger problem then the lifters!
Earl Guyton x
Earl Guyton *
Brian your videos are awesome, if I may offer a suggestion to help you avoid future headaches: tape the straw to the applicator nozzle before spraying that way you wont lose the straw down into the engine if there is a blow out between the nozzle and straw
This actually worked, i didn't unstick until i started driving. But it was a long shot that paid off. Thanks buddy!!
This video helps me to get my car fixed, thank you for your help
Dude your a bad ass! You know your stuff. My 2000 silverado is doing the same thing. Could I try just putting sea foam in the oil right before I change it and possibly clear it out?
Great video but wanted to share my experience. My 2005 Tahoe 5.3L had a
ticking valve. The first or second valve on the drivers side. Would come
and go but very irritating. I replace the valve cover on that side and
tried the Chemtool spray to no avail. The problem is the O-ring on the
oil pickup tube in the oil pan. I dropped the oil pan and found the
o-ring was cracked which was causing lower oil pressure and the oil not
to travel to the front lifters. I replaced it and no more ticking.
that you said is my solution I think everyone should check for that. if your oil level is fluctuating you bet it's an cracked o ring or damaged oil sensor or oil pump. thanks bro....
Adam Brock. What was your oil presure reading. When it was low
That is the solution to low oil pressure... which you ARE correct!
But if you have good oil pressure, these lifters CAN still be noisy due to sludge buildup...
Cleaning them will help with that!
Adam Brock Holy crap, same exact year and model and am having a bitch of a time getting rid of this lifter tick. It’s definitely driver side. Did you drop the pan or go thru the front?
Cecilia M Mine runs anywhere from 10 to 20 psi.
My 2000 Suburban is making the same noise.After watching this video several times I finally got bold enough to pull my valve cover off. OMG the sludge was so thick I used 5 cans of the B12. I used the flush 2 times changing the oil and filter each time the noise is much better and my oil pressure is almost back to normal. Thank you so much for posting this video.
Thanks Brian,
Enjoyed watching, but more this provided the solution for my problem my 4.0 Jeep Cherokee. Just follwed your instructions and applied to my motor. What a difference. As a professional your very quick, I'm abit slower but got the job done! I used a piece of cardboard and kept my pushrods in order along with its mated rocker. Regards, Doug
You're right. You can't please everyone. I don't expect to. I love myself and that's enough for me.
you sure have a lot of faith in that red straw attached to that carb cleaner spraying down that tiny hole lol Damn thing would have fallen off if that was me.
+David Nelson That is literally the first thought on seeing that.......... You would have heard a loud "NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO"
David Nelson h
So true for me, I installed a mellling pump and it took my oil pressure from 28PSI on 197k on the engine it also boosted my oil to 50-60 plus psi, annoying tapping of the lifters gone. done 6 months ago, btw I have Royal Purple 5/30 oil.
David Nelson I was thinking that exact thing I was like that’s my luck it would come off and I would’ve spent hours trying to get it out
Lmao that was my first thoughts
You might have saved me a lot of money, I'll find out tomorrow! Thanks for the vid
super detailed so it was very helpful. no more noise. so thanks so much for the video. my question is how much would this be for a mechanic to do it at a shop.
Amazing Results!!!
I do most of the work on my own vehicles, but I'm pretty hesitant to get inside the engine. My 2005 Suburban suffered from increasing ticking...it started out a small periodic tick and became a noisy tick I could hear when driving on the freeway. It was getting worse and worse. So, I was about to bite the bullet and take it in for whatever the mechanic had to do. this was not an exciting prospect. Would it cost $500? $1000? More?
When I saw this video, it gave me hope. I went and bought the carb cleaner and engine flush, followed the exact steps laid out in the video. After the oil change, I was surprised that there was no more noise, but figured that might be due to idling and the new oil. The real test came when I took a drive to a nearby city on the freeway pulling a trailer. Loads usually induce the racket if nothing else does. No Noise! After a half hour on the freeway and 20 minutes of city driving, I heard a very slight tick once while idling. I think I'll do the flush again at the next oil change.
Total cost: Under $10 besides normal oil change. I'm so happy! Thanks for this great video.
Lifter cleaning: Use the pushrod as a "straw" to *directly inject* the cleaning fluid, AND to *push the lifter down to work it*, pumping the cleaner through it. IMO K1 Clear Kerosene is a great "flushing" fluid; drain 2 QTS oil, replace with same amount of K1 CLEAR Kerosene (not the cheap pink colored). Also- to check for a bent pushrod- clean, then roll them slowly by hand on a piece of quality window glass. *OLD SCHOOL STUFF.*
Ding , Ding, Ding ! We have a Winner ! You my friend win the "Wise Old Owl Award " for thinking outside the box with this clever idea ! Thanks! 👨🎓🔧 🦉🦉🦉
@@moparbee1523 Wow! 8 years later? I just thought, the way fuel injectors are cleaned, just pump a cleaner through the hydraulic valve lifter too. I guess it's only relevant to older systems that use a component like a hydraulic valve lifter. I could imagine other hydraulic/oil actuated components such as a cam phaser or a VVT/VTEC controller can get clogged up with coke from overheated, dirty oil.
Hey Brian thanks for providing us the public with great Repair Videos! Anyway had a question for ya, I have a 95 Honda Accord V6 well every time I first start the Car for the day I can hear the Hydraulic Lifters tapping very loudly. Honda switched from a solid valve train to hydraulic lifters for these V6 models in 95 thru 97 so they can't be Adjusted. Well when the car warms up the tapping completely stops and I don't hear it again until after the car has sat for about 4 or 5 hours. I've tried seafoam in the Crank case numerous times and also a product called justice brothers engine tune that suppose to quiet noisy lifters and have had NO luck. What do I do!!??
Thanks. I'm flattered that you would feel that way.
Problem was the O ring on the pick up tube. Thanks for your video and thanks to your posters. My Buddy and I recently fixed his noisy 5.3. It had the same noise as in your video. It was louder during load while going up a hill. It was the O ring located on the pick up tube. It was cracked and came out in two pieces. There was no way it could have been allowing oil pump to efficiently operate. Factory oil pan gasket and O ring were very reasonable. Problem solved. Not a hard job. Probably a 2 - 3 hour job.
Great video Brian! Suggestion: Use this sequence to clean the crud out of the lifters - 1. Solvent (Berryman, Gumout, etc.) 2. Light spray Oil (PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench, WD-40, etc.) 3. Rubber tipped air gun on the push rod ends to blow the crud away. Repeat the sequence 3 or 4 times, and of course change the engine oil & filter when you're done. The solvent is great at dissolving the crud, but the oil has enough viscosity to carry the crud away. Adding the light oil and compressed air really clears it out. Thanks.
there is a hole on the top of the rocker arms where you don't have to remove the rocker arms to spray stuff in there...
Great to hear! My brother is in Dallas, I'm about a thousand miles northwest.
well brian, i sub to you because ypu were the only dude on youtube i found Funny and with Experience.
aint nothing cooler than watching someone fix a ride and laugh at the same time
I had the same thing happen to my truck, but I put half a can of seafoam in it and drove it for a hundred miles and did a oil change and that stuff really worked great. It was running smoother, quieter, and there was a lot less crank time.
You put it in the gas or the oil?
I just had a collapsed lifter replaced in my Chevy 5.3 with only 6k miles on the clock. Actually two lifters replaced, as GM said the opposing cylinder lifter had to be replaced too. Great that this was 100% warranty, sucks that it happened at all.
Thank your for your time making this video, I been having this issue on my 2003 Chevy Suburban, I'm going to give it a shoot and hope solves my problem, I'll get back with the results.
Right on.I always feel better about things when I'm able to do a thorough job. That's why I like working on my own cars so much more than on a customer one. I DO have some customers that don't even ask price till I'm done and just want it done right. I LOVE THAT TOO! I save them the most money because I can just go at it right and it won't have to be done again for a long time- plus you can combine labor times if needed and have liberty to choose where the parts come from to get the best deal.
I recommend riselone every oil change on an older engine works very well at getting rid of lifter tick. Or you can use ATF and change at shorter intervals and that helps too.
Hayden Binkley how long can i keep atf fluid in engine
Brian i work for chevy. what year was this truck? ive seen lifters fail on 2009 year
i have a 2009 gmc sierra 4x4 sle 1500. it only has 106,000 miles on it and i have tsaken good care of it. all sudden it started idling really rough and i could hear lifter tapping loudly. it threw p0301 cylinder 1 misfire and a p0449 evap emission solenoid. i swapped coil packs no change, then it started throwing just p0449 and then a crankshaft position sensor code as well.. i put new evap solenoid on, but didn't fix problem. the p301 cylinder misfire code is back and now throwing a p0121 throttle body position sensor. the lifter is still tapping loudly and i'm lost on what to do. i know this has been a common problem with the 2009 models. help.
Make sure some furry friend hasn’t made a home
@MorbidAlice YES!!!! The filter change is the key that people are missing there. YOU are a smart guy!
@kenman1717 I agree with you! You change the oil filter every time you change the oil. AT LEAST change the filter a reasonable interval and top off eigh?
lost it when you first started spraying those lifters hahaha "HAHAH YERRRAHHH"
so funny. awesome video, thanks. definitely going to do this to mine.
got 350k plus out of GM 5.3 ..
They have known oil pick up tube o ring issue causing air bubble s in oil stream. After 2006 there is a small oil screen under oil pressure sender which supplies lifers . Clean it with brake cleaner.
GM wants 5W30 oil only use it.
ive done this method on kohler command v twins with hyd lifters.....people never change the oil in their lawn equipment and when the oil gets like petroleum jelly hyd lifters no workie like they supposed to!!! great video brian!!!!
Love your vids....question for ya, on a 08 Tahoe, 5.3, got what looks like a collapsed lifter on #6. I've watched your video on replacing the intake gasket and was curious if you could suggest how and what needs removing to get to the lifters? Valley pan? Cylinder head?...thanks for any help/suggestions.
Exact thing just happened to my 08 5.3. Sounds very identical. Gonna pull the left side valve cover and possibly head asap. Hopefully this solves it.
Did it work? Inquiring minds want to know..
Anyone know if this 5.3L is the same in the chevy suburbans and silverados
myCarRepairChannel yes
They are very similar.
Jose Hernandez thanks man!
yes it's the same. basically from 2002 until at least 2013. GM 5.3 had very little changes. Maybe a power boost here and there
AutOdometer
Thanks Kody, I appreciate your info.
i went thru on my 06 silverado (5.3L) and threw some cleaner thru all my pushrods, then buttoned everything up and did the engine flush. it still ticks a tad...but i'm sure most of what i'm hearing now is just from my longtube headers. runs like a champ though and she's significantly more quiet at idle. thanks for the thorough video man...lots of help!
can i bring my truck to you?
I have a 2004 Chevy Trailblazer 5.3L V-8 Vortec. I use synthetic 5W30 Mobil or Pennzoil full synthetic. This is due to the engines design having tighter clearances for oil to move around. Every other oil change I use Marvel Mystery Oil in place of one quart. Keeps things clean and well lubed.
I also add 6oz to a full tank to keep my fuel system working well. 10 years 172972 miles ZERO ISSUES.
+TONYLOVE1
Same engine here.
I actually do the same thing - except I use about 1/2 a quart of MMO at each oil change with straight Castrol GTX 5w30 (every 3,000 miles)
TONYLOVE1 my motor had nothing but royal purple, 5.3l 303k miles. just rebuilt the motor because it finally started burning little oil.
I have a 2011 Silverado with the 5.3 and use 5/30 Pennzoil full synthetic as well, it ain't cheap but neither is a new engine later on. haha!
Hahahaha! Laughed through this whole video (and still am) Love your little jokes, gestures and sound FX. Great tip on the lifter cleaning from the top and the pushrod as a straw.
Darn just what I needed.. this dude is awemsome!! I'm doing this this weekend!! , mine taps or knocks but goes away after 15 seconds in the morning
Hi I have a better and sur shot 5 minute solution for this problem.It will clean up the gunk repair abrasions of the piston and block and rings improve compression reduce friction reduce noise and improve mileage upto 10 %.No more cold start woes . You will have best starts even in coldest temperatures of -45 degrees Celsius.Oil will become secondary lubricant. Have treat many pick up trucks with many at 280000 kms or more .
Awesome job. I have an '02 Yukon with the 6.0L, and the lifters sound pretty loud. Would this procedure be effective if you just sprayed the B-12 through the oil port of the rocker arm with the rocker arm and pushrod in place? I'm not sure what the torque spec is on tightening those rocker arms, so the idea of having to re-establish them correctly makes me mildly nervous.
Hi, did you ever get an answer to this. ? He doesn't say anything about torque or position of the engine prior to removing them or installing the back up. Thanks
+Ricardo Pay A buddy of mine and I looked up the specs, and I think it said 22 ft lbs. I removed the two rockers and pushrods that we're worn and replaced them with new ones. I torqued them down to between 23 ft lbs I think. I still have the clacking, so when I get time I'm going to do the rest of them on the passenger side. One other thing to note, make sure the valve spring is relaxed when you remove the rocker. If not you run a higher risk of stripping out the retaining bolt.
Good job. I have 2008 5.3 im about to tackle. Christian Brothers Auto quoted me $3000 to $4500. I was told basically that me engines trashed evern though my oil psi is normal and no loss of power.
+Danny Myers It's certainly worth a shot. If you have the skills to pull the heads and replace the lifters that's plan B. Some get bad enough that you have to do that and pushrods.
+briansmobile1 I bet you never heard this lol....Ok lets say ur car has 5qt of oil u drain 2qt of oil and then put 2qt of DIESEL yeap DIESEL....let it idle for 5min and the drain it and clean like Mr.Cleans Bald head and no more lifter noises!!!
my 2010 Tahoe does the same thing. all the 5.3 AFM motors are having the same issues. Poor engineering by Chevy/Gm. The lifters and volm manifold are crap
+Reggie B I dunno bruh, I have had two of these trucks and put 200K on both engines bone stock with regular mobil 1 oil changes and never had ANY issues....both 2002 models, a Z-71 extended cab and a stepside regular cab 2wd.
+bdevlint1501 because yours are 2002 models. you dont have to worry about AFM. AFM lifters are terrible. other than the early engines with AFM , LS motors are the shit!
never belived in motor flush stuff...but this stuff have changed my mind :)
greetings from Croatia
I like the bolt design for the valve covers I wonder if it's efficient as well
mine has lifter noise HOWEVER it goes away when the engine warms up after a cold start --really hoping this will work
How'd it go?
Put some Seafoam or MMO in the sump and run It to heat a few cycles. Mine cleared the lifters doing this. You can also quick flush It (20 minutos) with 1 Qt of Gasoline as I did To my Taurus. Works way Better then diesel to clean lifters.
Sure it wasn't your exhaust manifold?
Bad Flux capacitor
Sounds like the Cardinal grandmeters affected the hydrocoptic marzle veins causing side fumbling of the ambefacient lunar wane shaft. When this happens the nonreversible tremipipe cannot stabilize differential girdle springs!
Funny and informative. A great combo. Going to try this in my 5.3. Thanks brother
Great video! Makes me so proud that I change the oil in my 5.3 religiously. Haha!
That ticking noise is from the metal on the lifters roller starting to get pitted. No solution will make it go away until you replace the worn parts. Left untreated it will eventually flatten the camshaft lobe and cause a misfire.
Remove your cylinder heads and replace your lifters with new ones you've soaked in oil.
Thanks for posting this video. My son and I did what you said and it worked. Thanks again.
I'm trying this tomorrow because I don't have 2 G's to have a shop do it will keep you posted thanks again!!!!!
The biggest issue is that the lifters on the front of this motor, especially the 2nd gen version, get starved of oil and seize up on the front cylinders because of poor oiling methods. GM knew this, and replaced a bunch of these with better oil pumps or higher pressure pumps when they would fail within the 36000 mile warranty. If you have oil pressure under 30lb at idle, your front lifters are not getting enough oil to fill up, and you will hear knocking, which eventually leads to seized lifters.
Check out the knowledge on Chubbysumo here! Thanks for sharing with us.
I have a 2010 that gets probably a little better than 20 at idle after it’s warmed up. It’s always done this. 97k miles. Oil pressure is fine while driving.
Why not try my sure shot solution. A nano treatment will super lubricate by sitting inside the tiny pores of metal and keep it always lubricated.
Will also repair the piston and rings and improve compression and mileage. Very easy cold starts even in -45 degree Celsius.Extend the life of engine with least maintenance and extended oil change intervals.Actually oil will become secondary .Treated lot of pick up trucks Ford Dodge GM Toyota old and new and some at 400000 kms. Cost reasonable time required 5 minutes and DIY. Contact for more details
It's not the lifters. It's the oil pump O ring leaking air into the oil lines. Oil foam goes to the hydrolic lifters. The air compress in liftee and you get a tick sound. Higher rpm the oil pressure is greater than 40 psi the tick goes away and comes back when at idle.
Brian, Thank you for sharing this info. A lifter in my 01 Silverado 4.8 started ticking badly like inthe video. I took off the coil pack plate and the v/c but then reconnected the coils. I started the engine. The #5 intake lifter wasn't pumping up apparantly. I didn't remove the rocker but did shoot B12 down its bleed hole. I also shot compressed air into it. I let it soak for a bit and also added 1/2 qt of ATF to the oil. I also added a little bit an STP additive that claims to quiet lifters
I loved the rock band!
great vid man! THanks for taking the time to share your strategy!
Change the oil pickup O ring i changed mine problem solved
Curtis Chaney Thanks for the tip! A tick isn't always from the same cause.
briansmobile1that's true it was just a tip though
how much engin flush did you use? 6 qts?
3000 to 4500 hahahah...christian brother always trying to screw everyone even down here in texas.....
What a nice video Brian....So common with chevys.This video saves on major tear down if not needed...Subscribed brother.
hi brian love all your videos, have a question i have an 01 silverado with the 4.8 vortec with 166k miles and the lifters seems to have some clatter or shutter when it warms up. i have great oil pressure and it runs really well and doesnt smoke at all, is there anything i can try to do? since ive owned it ive changed the oil every 3-4k miles and ive done a sea foam treatment. -Jeremy
I got this problem when engine is cold, over 400k now
It's the fkn oil tube pick up O ring
@@nathankelly8665
Do the same things happen in the ls4? Have an 06 monte carlo and it's got a tap. Thinking it's a bent rod not sure though
@@dat6oycel118 Yep. Does the tap ever go away or is it always there? Where's your oil pressure running? Should be around 40psi idle.
@@nathankelly8665 funny reading all this. My 05 is doing a funny thing. 20 lbs when started. 40 when warms up, but lifter tapping when oil pressure goes from 40 lbs to 44 lbs then it stops. LOL its driving me crazy. I used this video from briansmobile1 to replace the pcv valve cover and cleaned the rods and lifter tops with the B12, but still taps. About to replace the oil pump and o-ring. 220k miles. I keep yall posted if it fixes it.
@@texashogblockers8099 did the o ring fix it?
I work on 5.3 and 6 liter gm motors all the time and we replace the oil pump because they go bad all the time. I would replace the oil pressure sending unit as well since they go bad all the time as well. The tick will go away I will guarantee you that.
***** They have rocker arm issues and Jasper see this a lot.Go on their youtube channel and they have a video on this already.
i have a noise like this i will do it this thank you my friend
If you weren't recording and guiding us through this in a video, how long would you say this process takes? I currently live out of my vehicle on the road and I'm just curious how I should prepare for this job. Also, are their any other processes you would recommend along with this one? Or just B-12 the journals (or soak rods and lifters in diesel fuel overnight), engine flush, and then maybe seafoam the crankcase along with the fresh oil and filter?
Hi Brian ! Thanks for this vid ! I would love to see your way of doing it with a Ford 5.4 2V (2002 E250) with Hydraulic lash adjuster. Would you recommend a flush also or is it better to change them all ? Only one ticking sound like your 5.3. Merci beaucoup l'ami !
3000 mile oil changes are a total waste of money with modern engines and oil. ANY conventional out there can easily pass an oil analysis with 5000 miles. I've witnessed 10k on conventional in an 06 Ram 4.7L and it easily passed the oil analysis at my local CAT dealer. A typical Ford F150 oil change monitor will go 10K before it recommends changing the Motorcraft 5W-20 semi syn. Full blown Syn oils can easily go 15K. So 8000 on this oil change isn't that crazy. I'm sure the oil would still qualify as good under a lab analysis for base and additive packages. It's not the 60's.
NeilLB7 NeilLB7 you're out of your damn mind to think a conventional oil would last 10,000 miles. I don't care who you are or what oil you use. All oil breaks down over time. If you're going to use conventional, 3000-4000 miles is ok, anything more is pushing it. Yes Full synthetic can go longer, but 15,000 miles? I don't think so. The most I've ever let my engine go on full synthetic is 6,000 miles. Even on the bottle of oil it says, "Check owners manual." Go by what your OWNERS manual says and the oil change interval that it recommends.
True. Some oils break down much faster than others. The condition of the oil is what determines if it needs to be changed or not; not the miles. Sure you can stick to the 5k or 7k miles intervals for your oil changes and that's fine but if the oil isn't broken down and would likely pass an oil analysis test then it doesn't need top be changed yet. Generally speaking, if the oil's condition looks to be good to the eyes then it's most likely still doing it's job and isn't broken down. If you can still see through the oil in the daylight and it's golden brown, not dark brown or black, then the oil is still good. Heat is what breaks down engine oil, regardless of the engine's operating hours or amount of miles actually driven. So if you use cheap oil for example, it will break down much faster and turn dark much sooner than top brand oil such as Mobile 1 or Castrol, both of which are the best for daily drivers in my opinion. So run the good oil and it will last longer and simply monitor the condition of your oil between oil changes and change it when it looks like it's getting dark colored. You don't have to go by the standard oil change intervals unless you jujst want to be safe and spend more money more frequently. It's up to you but run the good oil or you will be sorry.
Mercedes (diesel) scheduled oil change is 20K interval?
Sixty years ago a truck engine oil drain (or oil change) would have been performed as frequently as every 500 miles. Because of higher quality lubricants, cleaner fuels, improved filter technology and more dependable engines, today it is possible to have an oil drain interval as high as 50,000 miles or more on these same types of vehicles.
Nevertheless, typical oil drain intervals remain around 25,000 miles, and little attention is paid to adjusting this standard due to the diverse environments and other factors these vehicles face. For example, two identically produced vehicles may experience a very different oil life; one may reach close to 50,000 miles, while the other might be starving for fresh oil by 15,000 miles. This variance in engine oil life is the result of many factors from three main areas:
1. Engine Design, Age and Conditions - Engine design characteristics and numerous running conditions can affect oil life factors from exposures to contaminants and other conditions.
2. Driving Patterns and Conditions - Where and how the truck is driven.
3. Oil Properties - Quality and formulation performance of the engine oil.
LB7 you're incorrect!
John Malkovich much?
Steve DeLaT Much.
great video guy!!!!! Just what I needed for my 2004 Tahoe this weekend!!!!!! I'll be performing this job on Sat. morning.........this will save me a lot of time and money hopefully!!!!
Did it work?
with 856 comments I'm sure you've heard it. But good job on the video. And I don't say that often. Learn something new and had a laugh. Good job thanks
Have you ever had a motor fail after running a harsh flush like the gunk through it? You are bold if you ran it through a 180k mile engine :P
no, never...
i do it in my van once in a while.
it has 287k miles and it runs without any problems
Change oil on time and you won't have that problem
jj vwguy 2008 trailblazer with 5.3. 94,000 pampered miles, full synthetic since new changed at recommended intervals. Engine starting tapping like a mofo last week. The design is garbage for this many people to be having issues.
Thanks- I'm glad you liked it!
Thanks for the advice Brian always appreciate your help.