Polyurethane squeaks, and creeks. The rubber breaks down quicker when exposed to grease, oil, and fuel. I use the polly where chemical exposure is likely, and rubber where it is not.
Factory bushings are vulcanised in one piece, poly bushings are a 3 piece affair. This means they need lubrication, AKA maintenance, and a few grease fittings added to the assembly would make them last significantly longer.
I've had all the old rubber bushes replaced with red poly bushes ten years ago in my LC 105. It drives beautifully as was shown so well in this video. Replaced also the sway bars with bigger diameter spring steel bars also. Well worth the time and expense. I would never go back to rubber bushes.
The original factory rubber bushes were still in the upper arms. Says it all really. Poly bushes work well in a car (if you don't mind the harshness), but just can't handle the flex in a 4wd.
I used to build off-road vehicles going all the way back to the Baja day's of Dick Cepek, Mickey Thompson and Phil Ruesche. You are better off with OEM Rubber Bushings as they are more forgiving and allow for more flex when and where you need it. Poly bushings were created for Racing Cars running on pavement but the industry saw an opportunity to sell more if they could convince the 4x4 market. Go OEM and replace them as needed!
Rubber bushes with a steel outer case and bonded crush tube are a better design for a couple of reasons. One is the fact they require no lubrication. Poly bushes introduce a friction point and another moving part to wear out and keep greased. Not ideal in wet or dusty environments. Secondly is the design of the bush is different to the manufacturers design considerations in that the poly bush requires a different design to hold the component centred in the bracket by way of a shoulder (as in the control arms in this video). The vehicle manufacturer doesn’t account for this in its design and may not build enough surface area into the bracket to fully support the bushes shoulder. You also have another introduced friction point needing lubrication with the shoulder and bracket. Also, the shoulder removes a gap that would allow a suspension component to flex the way it should, potentially cracking the mount if the manufacturer builds a closer than ideal clearance for a poly bush, especially when a longer travel suspension is added. It’s just a bad idea in some applications and should be thought about before switching. Poly bushings do have their place where oem rubber bushes have a known high failure rate if the original design isn’t changed.
Like steel or wood or any other material, there are many grades and hardness of Polyurethane. SuperPro uses a variety of engineered materials to get max performance and min NVH. Other manufacturers have got it wrong over the years - as with any raw material, nothing wrong with the poly, but if you use the wrong grade and/or poor design, it’ll fail! (Disclosure - I work at SuperPro)
@@nickscud In the context of the original Toyota bushes in this video I think poly bushes are a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist in terms of performance and longevity. What’s wrong with the bush design and using rubber in this case? Nothing, as it’s performed perfectly and lasted a very long time. It was designed to perform, be reliable with longevity in mind. There’s no need to reinvent Toyotas design and make it worse by designing a DIY fit bush that doesn’t require a press for installation.
it won't feel any more floaty in the back as yr using the same swaybar . extension are that; extensions. now you'll get 2" more droop each side but handling the same as before ( minus the whoaful old bushes) and I'm a full Factory rubber bushes man.
would be interesting to know how they're holding up in the year. particularly locations like the trailing arm with that lateral movement that seems to creat a gap (atleast on the superpro add it did).
I did similar maintenance on my GQ recently and it made an ENORMOUS difference. New panhard rod bushes front and rear, new extended sway bar links and bushes (for a 50mm lift), new castor correction bushes, new radius arm bushes (chassis end), new lower trailing arm bushes, a new tie rod end, and a new steering damper. It feels like a new car now. It cost me a touch over $2000 to have all that work done, but it’s been well worth it.
Nolathane recommends you don't grease the outside of the bushes where the eye is, only the center where the bolt is and the faces on the sides where the flanges go, I would guess Supapro might be the same.
I’ve used urethane bushes on cars suspension for years but anytime I’ve used them in 4wd’s they tend to fall apart just like the ones in your 80. I’ll only ever use rubber bushes (preferably genuine) in 4wds now. And yes it makes a massive difference having good spending and bushings. Cheers Pat
Like steel or wood or any other material, there are many grades and hardness of Polyurethane. SuperPro uses a variety of engineered materials to get max performance and min NVH. Other manufacturers have got it wrong over the years - as with any raw material, nothing wrong with the poly, but if you use the wrong grade and/or poor design, it’ll fail! (Disclosure - I work at SuperPro)
I can't emphasise just how refreshing it or to see a build with a 2 inch lift and 33s in a world of 4 inch and 37s Good video mate, that car will still take you around the country and back no dramas
When I replaced my 80 series' suspension to the Fulcrum early last year (2022), I also wanted to replaced all the suspension (OEM) rubber bushings at the same time. But the suspension specialist guys told me that the genuine Toyota bushings on my 80 where still in very good nick and didn't recommend replacing them (my 1996 80 Series had only travelled a genuine 122k kms on the clock then). Obviously the bushings on the radius arms had to be replaced with bushings that came with the suspension kit due to the 2" lift. But the rest, were left as it (Toyota OEM). It goes to show how Toyota genuine products are of very good quality, as the genuine Toyota rubber bushings on your 80's upper trailing arms it seems were still in good condition. Great work Pat. 👌👍
I have replaced all the factory rubber bushings superpro and noloathane poly where applicable. Only place was upper control arms on my IFS, PITA to change and they seemed fine. definitely changed handling for the better. Did make the cab a bit louder as the noise could resonate through. A little tip: I used plumbers teflon tape on all my crush tubes to mitigate any 'squeeks' and haven't had any yet...Not sure how reliable the 'lifetime warranty' is but haven't had an issue in 3 years and and if they do become an issue they should be covered.
We just got our 85 Ford out of storage after 6years. The rear trailing arms have poly bushes in them and when we moved the car out, there was red rubber goo on the floor. Turns out that the bushes had totally degraded and will need replacement. I'm going back to rubber bushes this time!
I just put Urethane bushes on everything. Works great for me. I used the same ones you did but I drive an old Jeep. Oh, and your press is awesomely, I’m gonna build one!
I doubt you'll have problems with the SuperPro bushes. I've been runnign them for years without issue. The only time I've had issues with poly bushes are two-piece poly bushes. They're crap.
The new poly bushings I put in are alot different to old poly bushings that were in there in terms of design and compound. Alot of people write off poly bushings because they got a bit of a bad name when they first came to market but alot of improvement has come to them over the years with manufacturing technology. Again I'm not an expert but I think these will do pretty well in the 80! But I'll be making sure to keep you all updated!
@Aussie Arvos that may be all well and true but why do OEM'S still to this day use rubber in all new vehicles? The NVH and durability is still far superior...
Hi guys, just watching this again as I got my extended links for my 80 and SuperPro Sway bars for front and rear which will improve stability on road, these are massive, heavy duty, will flex better with the extended links, I already had upgraded chassis square off set bracket, I got great flex out of my setup even with a 2.5" lift, so be interested if I se any extra improvement, I also have Sup Upper Control arms and Lowers (adj) on both and Panhards all from Superior. But I have been going over your link assembly, I could be wrong but it seems you got your top bush orientated backwards, my instructions and diagram show the nipples of the bush are supposed to slot into/through the chassis bracket? Did you change this or is it still like that for some reason? Anyways, lot of negative comments about poly bushes, but for this application, I'm all in, for chassis mounts and Lower Control Arms and Uppers and my Panhards I have gone with new OEMs, just because they have lasted 30years and still not flogged, but were cracked slightly as you'd expect for 30 yo rubber! If I haven't got my Hyperflex arms by the time Radius bushes are needed to be replaced, I'll go Superpro bushes there, just because imo a std OEM bush wasn't designed to handle and offset to correct the lift I have, plus its short term, but would still be a good test to see how they go, you have given yours 2 years no probs, so its not an issue for me. the big thing is use it where it makes sense imo.
Brilliant work. 👏👍 I know popping out and sliding in bushings is a difficult job, but you guys made it looked so easy and straight-forward. You gotta love having the correct tools, combined with experience and know-how. After seeing this, I too might now replace some of the bushings on my LC80. But last time I checked the original Toyota rubber bushings were still in good condition, and I don't have any jolting, vibration or unusual noises coming from my suspension. Maybe "when it ain't broke"...? 🤔 Now the next improvement that would be good to see you do is how to improve the 80's OEM handbrake. 😁
Thanks mate, means alot! Yeah you're probably all good then! And yes handbrake is next video I've gotta do! It's possible to get it to work and hold, I can get it good for a month or two then it usually goes bad, But there are things you can do to help prevent this
We had the same issue with those bushings, but we made them on a lathe, out of an old forklift tire. A bit stiff but the never breaks. especially when you do a lot of towing off-road.
I rate the super pro bushes. I did every bush in a 40 year old Gemini at the same time lowered it by 1.5" front and 2" rear. Its pretty light so I really expected extra harshness on the road compared to rubber, but no, it just felt tighter and pin point accurate. Aussie made too, so bonus. I wonder now how they'd go in my 2" lifted Hilux daily.... Hmmm...
Great video Guys. Awesome for a DIY at home repair. I run the same suspension on my 80. Might have to go over mine now haha. ps what's the rear bar your running cheers.
The extended sway bar links should NOT negatively effect your onroad performance. The additional flex was only because the swaybar wasnt centered after the lift was installed and was reaching its full extention. Now youve put the extended links in, it should be centered. It will still be just as effective at stopping roll as it was from factory.
have you replaced the rear axle in the 80 series to correct the tracking issues all land cruisers have in the rear end because they more narrow than the front!!!
Good timing for this video. Im looking to do some bushes or all of if I can afford it in the next month or 2. Makes me wonder how much nicer the Paj will feel once I do them.
@@AussieArvos Im pretty sure all the ones in my 21 year old Pajero are originals so Im sure it will make a big difference. Im noticing knocking in the back end which I believe are the bushes.
The castor correction bushes in the front are a reasonable Band-Aid , however the BlackHawk caster correction radius arms give way more clearance and flex and the bushes have a lifetime warranty 😊
Nathan at Tread Works supplied me with the same polyurethane superpro bushes and I haven't installed them yet because I didn't know if I would be better of getting rubber ones instead Thanks.
From the research I did before picking poly or rubber, poly has had a huge amount of development in the last 10 years, when they first came to market they were pretty average but alot has changed and as long as you are buying a good quality poly bushing I don't think you'll run into issues. Sure if you doing really hard wheeling and you need as much flex as humanly possible out of the bushes alot of the internet say rubber is better option for that. Again I'm not an expert, and you'll find all different opinions on the internet, talk to suspension shops and see what they recommend 👍
@@hpremier817 You've got to really wonder why no professional race car team, supercar manufacturer or off road Baja Trophy truck does not use polyurethane? Poly is a joke and will not last. Plus, no matter how much you try to lube them they will squeak. Poly is just a form of plastic....it does not take to being twisted like the lower control arms of the Toyota are subjected to. But they do look flash:)
@@AussieArvos 30 years would be fantastic. Most would be thrilled with 15 years I reckon. Be interesting to see a 1 year update and a 5 year update if you have your 80 series that long. You guys do give us some great product suggestions. 👍
Great Video. At the end of the day it’s your car and you do whatever you want. The reason I like this channel is because I know you will let your viewers know if they are good or not! Also what happened to your Raspberry Pi setup for transferring footage to HDs? I always thought that was a great idea, maybe not a fast enough transfer speed? Last Pi I bought was a Pi 2.
extended sway bar links won't change the handling of the car at all. all you're doing is compensating for the lift so the swaybar is level again and isn't binding at full droop which could cause a failure. the swaybar is a spring that only works when the car tilts side to side on it's suspension when one side pushes down the other side is pulled down the swaybar twists in the middle to still allow axle articulation.
no rebuild! Liam just slapped it on and she loves it ! Hahaha, but in all seriousness its a factory turbo so the engine can handle it no issues, only running around 10psi and only a slight turn on the fuel screw
Great series of updates mate, mine have been done, but all OEM 🤔. Question have you plated your steering box chassis rail and mount area yet, if not inspect and do it anyways if all good. I'm interested to know how your SP bushing work out, my only negative to them which is not proven ime, is most of the chatter is about the bushes causing structural cracking and I'm not just talking 80s, I have heard this in the car world as well, but am not convinced, by the chatter. But also I am reluctant to test the theories, for me when in doubt I stick with OEM, but I have gone Tough Dog and Superior and Dobinsons and many other brands so am not adverse to AFM at all, my cars too also have many mods, so by the time my 80 needs some new bushings I'll be interested to see how the SuperPro have held up on yours and also what effects if any it's had on the mighty 80 1HD-T. cheers guys keep rocking, one of my most enjoyable channels to follow, keep[it real, in the garage and on the BT & DT cheers 🤘
Hi Maverick! Thanks for the comment, i haven't plated the chassis but i haven't got any cracks (yet) hahaha! Yeah ill have to see how they go. Agreed, they don't have the proven time that rubber bushings have had, but i'm interested to see how they go, i've seen the stuff about cracking diffs etc. seems pretty full on, but ill keep monitoring it, i'm pretty confident that these will be fine on the 80 but i'll provide an indepth update on them in the future. Thanks for watching the channel, it really means alot! All the best, - Patrick
Good video. Poly bushes in the front. Rubber in the rear. Sway bar links or brackets should have been extended when you did the lift. You should do the front also. Sway bar ends should sit fairly level, not at an angle. Not sure about the 80, but if you don't put sway bar brackets on my 105, the front driveshaft may hit the sway bar on full droop 👍
There's quite a lot of hate towards anything that isn't rubber for bushings and I think a lot of that hate comes off how poly bushings used to be. I replaced some components on my AU with Superpro a couple years ago now and wish I did the change earlier. Barely affected NVH in my case. Granted I wouldn't use nolathane for anything, but superpro seem to produce some quality products and great replacement options. It's also true what they say regarding each component is designed with different mixtures, they all feel different in the hand depending on their desired purpose. A swaybar bushing feels different to a control arm bush and so on.
I have a 60 series that can have a mind of its own, 2" lift and 33s. Steering dead center, it can just wander around, or tramline at low speed and Toyota's power steering is so over assisted so you get very little steering feel. Hence, I'm not brave enough to take it on a long 80-100km/h trip yet. I'm on a mission to replace majority of the suspension components, badly needs new body mounts as well. I wouldn't have a clue what a well sorted 60 is like to drive but it can't be half as bad, if there's any other 60 owners here I'd love any feedback on what they've done.
Have you checked your steering box for wear, you could try just a half turn on the adjuster but be carefull because if the balls have worn the worm it will jam in the straight ahead position or become very stiff in that position, means a steering box rebuild.
You don't really need weight on the vehicle to tension the suspension with poly bushes. The pins pivit inside the bush unlike rubber where they are bonded.
Bad choice for an 80 series imo. I've seen these exact bushes in and 80 series ovalize around the pin (and the pin get eaten away) which just ends up causing play - they were ~6months old. The car was used for touring and the lubricant quickly dissapears with water crossings/dust etc. Just too many moving sections that a genuine rubber bush doesn't have - its literally just the rubber flexing, nothing rotates and theres nowhere for debris to get stuck/create wear. I particularly dislike them in the radius arms due to being stiffer, reduce flex and put more stress on the mounts when flexing, which can (I've seen it twice now) break the mounts off the housing. My own car has these bushes in it from a previous owner and they all have play in them too. They just seem to wear out around the pin. This is where bonded rubber to a centre sleeve is far superior imo - the rubber literally has to break off to create play, but the bush is typically very old by the time that happens, or the rubber fails first. The genuine rubber just work. Last ages, flex well, comfortable (not as stiff) and less noise/vibration. Don't fix what aint broke imo. but regardless, I'll be interested to see your update in the future and see your findings with them.
Thanks for all this info, i'm going to keep a close eye on them, i'll keep everyone updated on how they go! but thanks for all this info, i really appreciate it !
Love this video, and absolutely love the new phonk songs playing, in this vid gives the video such a fresh vibe. Do you mind me asking where you find your copyright free Phonk music
The original rubber bushes lasted to 150k. Never made any strange noises. The new " life time" poly bushes, when subjected to some four wheeling are looking stressed and chewed up after 1000k. Also make horrible squelchy noises. Not completely buggered yet, but they clearly don't compare to the longevity of quality rubber bushes.
Riddle me this. The old poly ones were flogged out, and the original rubber ones were good. Yet you went poly. The new poly ones do not have a new recipe. It's been the same for decades. It's all a sales pitch for dummies.
I’f you haven’t already run a front and rear adjustable pan hard rod on your diffs. You’ll find when you lifted the car it would have pulled your doffs off centre
Should of went rubber more movement in rubber poly has not much movement and they crumble and squash the answer is there in the uppers 30 years 🤔 and still working 👌
I fitted superpro polyurethane bushes to my old GQ wagon (needed all new bushes for a roadworthy, as the 27 year old factory rubber ones borderline wouldn't pass). I drove the car around for two years, mostly highway driving, some local dirt roads and maybe one day of four wheel driving every two months. The superpro bushes were practically falling out of the car after two years. Knocks and bonks as you turned corners or went over speed bumps, the car would buck from the rear end if you planted your foot as the slop in the bushes took up. Just absolute junk. The worst part is, what I paid for those bushes at Bursons wasn't that much cheaper than genuine Nissan ones from Patrolapart.
Hey, thanks for the info, i'm going to be pretty mad if mine flog out quickly as you said, meant to have lifetime warrenty, i'm going to keep a close eye on them, will keep you updated. Thanks for the heads up
@@AussieArvos sorry to bring the bad news man. It especially hurt me at the time, working in a low paying, somewhat seasonal casual job. I ended up getting some second hand arms with reasonable condition factory bushes to replaces them as needed. It got me by, but the lesson was definitely learnt the hard way. They do have a lifetime warranty, but considering how quickly they fell apart, and it would mean having my car off the road whilst negotiating with the retailer to honor the warranty ot just wasn't worth the gamble that a new batch *might* last longer. My new GQ wagon so far has Roadsafe arms under it, all of which come fitted with genuine Nissan bushes, also plan to get some Superior hybrid radius arms some day too, which use genuine Nissan (diff end) and genuine Toyota (modified chassis end) bushes. I figure if roadsafe and Superior are putting genuine rubber bushes in their gear, there's probably not any better options out there...
Rubber or Poly, let me know what bushes you run. Very keen to hear people's experience with both.
Hey Mate, got the same car and was just wondering if you could put down the link for those sway bar extension links you installed.
Cheers
have a link to the site you got the extended links and bushings from ?
Will send you pics on instagram of all the gear going on my sahara 👌 may even be some ideas in there for you
@@ryanb5561 Just updated the discription with the links, Cheers :)
@@tysjo2371 Just updated description with links :)
From hardcore off-road to overland ,I tried almost every brand, in the end stick with oem bushing are the best.
Polyurethane squeaks, and creeks. The rubber breaks down quicker when exposed to grease, oil, and fuel. I use the polly where chemical exposure is likely, and rubber where it is not.
Factory bushings are vulcanised in one piece, poly bushings are a 3 piece affair. This means they need lubrication, AKA maintenance, and a few grease fittings added to the assembly would make them last significantly longer.
I wrap the crush tube with plumbers teflon tape as it helps stop the squeaking when the grease drys out.
I've had all the old rubber bushes replaced with red poly bushes ten years ago in my LC 105. It drives beautifully as was shown so well in this video. Replaced also the sway bars with bigger diameter spring steel bars also. Well worth the time and expense. I would never go back to rubber bushes.
The original factory rubber bushes were still in the upper arms. Says it all really. Poly bushes work well in a car (if you don't mind the harshness), but just can't handle the flex in a 4wd.
I used to build off-road vehicles going all the way back to the Baja day's of Dick Cepek, Mickey Thompson and Phil Ruesche. You are better off with OEM Rubber Bushings as they are more forgiving and allow for more flex when and where you need it. Poly bushings were created for Racing Cars running on pavement but the industry saw an opportunity to sell more if they could convince the 4x4 market. Go OEM and replace them as needed!
Rubber bushes with a steel outer case and bonded crush tube are a better design for a couple of reasons. One is the fact they require no lubrication. Poly bushes introduce a friction point and another moving part to wear out and keep greased. Not ideal in wet or dusty environments. Secondly is the design of the bush is different to the manufacturers design considerations in that the poly bush requires a different design to hold the component centred in the bracket by way of a shoulder (as in the control arms in this video). The vehicle manufacturer doesn’t account for this in its design and may not build enough surface area into the bracket to fully support the bushes shoulder. You also have another introduced friction point needing lubrication with the shoulder and bracket. Also, the shoulder removes a gap that would allow a suspension component to flex the way it should, potentially cracking the mount if the manufacturer builds a closer than ideal clearance for a poly bush, especially when a longer travel suspension is added. It’s just a bad idea in some applications and should be thought about before switching. Poly bushings do have their place where oem rubber bushes have a known high failure rate if the original design isn’t changed.
Like steel or wood or any other material, there are many grades and hardness of Polyurethane. SuperPro uses a variety of engineered materials to get max performance and min NVH. Other manufacturers have got it wrong over the years - as with any raw material, nothing wrong with the poly, but if you use the wrong grade and/or poor design, it’ll fail! (Disclosure - I work at SuperPro)
@@nickscud In the context of the original Toyota bushes in this video I think poly bushes are a solution to a problem that doesn’t really exist in terms of performance and longevity. What’s wrong with the bush design and using rubber in this case? Nothing, as it’s performed perfectly and lasted a very long time. It was designed to perform, be reliable with longevity in mind. There’s no need to reinvent Toyotas design and make it worse by designing a DIY fit bush that doesn’t require a press for installation.
Poly bush is around 2-3year life.
If everyday sees mud , 1-2years.
Oem bushing - at least 5-10 years.
it won't feel any more floaty in the back as yr using the same swaybar . extension are that; extensions. now you'll get 2" more droop each side but handling the same as before ( minus the whoaful old bushes) and I'm a full Factory rubber bushes man.
Used both and they have their place. The ones that you installed were purposed to their application which I think is the goal. Great vid.
Thanks Mike!
Nice work Patrick. I've never even thought of that in my ute. Definitely needs a look. Cheers mate. Have a great week everyone 😀
Thanks Jon! Definitely worth while if they are flogged out like mine were!! Cheers :)
Polly can crack the diff housing, seen it in a mates 80, he went back to genuine rubber no more problems.
Good video. For wheelin I take my front swaybar out to get more flex then back in for touring.
would be interesting to know how they're holding up in the year. particularly locations like the trailing arm with that lateral movement that seems to creat a gap (atleast on the superpro add it did).
I did similar maintenance on my GQ recently and it made an ENORMOUS difference. New panhard rod bushes front and rear, new extended sway bar links and bushes (for a 50mm lift), new castor correction bushes, new radius arm bushes (chassis end), new lower trailing arm bushes, a new tie rod end, and a new steering damper. It feels like a new car now.
It cost me a touch over $2000 to have all that work done, but it’s been well worth it.
Nolathane recommends you don't grease the outside of the bushes where the eye is, only the center where the bolt is and the faces on the sides where the flanges go, I would guess Supapro might be the same.
I’ve used urethane bushes on cars suspension for years but anytime I’ve used them in 4wd’s they tend to fall apart just like the ones in your 80.
I’ll only ever use rubber bushes (preferably genuine) in 4wds now.
And yes it makes a massive difference having good spending and bushings.
Cheers Pat
Thanks Paddy!
Like steel or wood or any other material, there are many grades and hardness of Polyurethane. SuperPro uses a variety of engineered materials to get max performance and min NVH. Other manufacturers have got it wrong over the years - as with any raw material, nothing wrong with the poly, but if you use the wrong grade and/or poor design, it’ll fail! (Disclosure - I work at SuperPro)
I use super pro bushes and have had them in for close to 8 years and they still look new no cracks at all and iv done 200,thousand kms since then
Well done Patrick - glad it had such a positive effect on both you and the 80. Excellent mod for an older vehicle for sure. Cheers mate.
I can't emphasise just how refreshing it or to see a build with a 2 inch lift and 33s in a world of 4 inch and 37s
Good video mate, that car will still take you around the country and back no dramas
When I replaced my 80 series' suspension to the Fulcrum early last year (2022), I also wanted to replaced all the suspension (OEM) rubber bushings at the same time. But the suspension specialist guys told me that the genuine Toyota bushings on my 80 where still in very good nick and didn't recommend replacing them (my 1996 80 Series had only travelled a genuine 122k kms on the clock then). Obviously the bushings on the radius arms had to be replaced with bushings that came with the suspension kit due to the 2" lift. But the rest, were left as it (Toyota OEM). It goes to show how Toyota genuine products are of very good quality, as the genuine Toyota rubber bushings on your 80's upper trailing arms it seems were still in good condition. Great work Pat. 👌👍
Thanks mate! Yeah I was pretty blown away that they were still in there considering the amount of KMs on the car!
WhiteLine 30mm HD rear sway bar with extended sway bar links……really nice.
yeah I'm pretty sure I use super pro castor correction bushes in my Patrol. they have lasted 5years !
Poly bushes are cheaper and easier to fit and good if you have an old clunker with lots of oil leaks otherwise rubber is way superior.
your videos are super cool dude, really nice to see someone doing something the same way any of us other simpletons would
Thanks Jake! I'm just having a crack myself and filming it Hahahah!
Great...you did the control arms first? Is that right? What comes next in order of importance?
Did you extend the frame to axle brake line?
I have replaced all the factory rubber bushings superpro and noloathane poly where applicable. Only place was upper control arms on my IFS, PITA to change and they seemed fine. definitely changed handling for the better. Did make the cab a bit louder as the noise could resonate through. A little tip: I used plumbers teflon tape on all my crush tubes to mitigate any 'squeeks' and haven't had any yet...Not sure how reliable the 'lifetime warranty' is but haven't had an issue in 3 years and and if they do become an issue they should be covered.
I am planning to upgrade them also on my Amarok, what kind of grease is best? Silicon grease? I guess lithium is aggressive?
How are the new bushings holding up so far I'm just about to do mine
We just got our 85 Ford out of storage after 6years. The rear trailing arms have poly bushes in them and when we moved the car out, there was red rubber goo on the floor. Turns out that the bushes had totally degraded and will need replacement. I'm going back to rubber bushes this time!
Good stuff guys, Glad to see you back!
Cheers mate!
I just put Urethane bushes on everything. Works great for me. I used the same ones you did but I drive an old Jeep.
Oh, and your press is awesomely, I’m gonna build one!
What a brilliant way to start the morning, Aussie Arvos video while eating brekky at camp in the dunes behind beachport
Thanks Arron! Livin the dream!!
I doubt you'll have problems with the SuperPro bushes. I've been runnign them for years without issue. The only time I've had issues with poly bushes are two-piece poly bushes. They're crap.
Did you buy offset bushes?
So you saw the original factory bushes and they were fine, the poly bushes were destroyed. Yet you still decided to replace everything with poly???
Legit just thought that too, came to comments to see if anyone else did.
Upper arms bushes almost never wear out lowers do, hence why it had different bushes to begin with
@@jacksonwelch9870 That may apply to that one specific bush, how do you explain the rest of the bushes?
The new poly bushings I put in are alot different to old poly bushings that were in there in terms of design and compound.
Alot of people write off poly bushings because they got a bit of a bad name when they first came to market but alot of improvement has come to them over the years with manufacturing technology.
Again I'm not an expert but I think these will do pretty well in the 80! But I'll be making sure to keep you all updated!
@Aussie Arvos that may be all well and true but why do OEM'S still to this day use rubber in all new vehicles? The NVH and durability is still far superior...
Hi guys, just watching this again as I got my extended links for my 80 and SuperPro Sway bars for front and rear which will improve stability on road, these are massive, heavy duty, will flex better with the extended links, I already had upgraded chassis square off set bracket, I got great flex out of my setup even with a 2.5" lift, so be interested if I se any extra improvement, I also have Sup Upper Control arms and Lowers (adj) on both and Panhards all from Superior.
But I have been going over your link assembly, I could be wrong but it seems you got your top bush orientated backwards, my instructions and diagram show the nipples of the bush are supposed to slot into/through the chassis bracket? Did you change this or is it still like that for some reason?
Anyways, lot of negative comments about poly bushes, but for this application, I'm all in, for chassis mounts and Lower Control Arms and Uppers and my Panhards I have gone with new OEMs, just because they have lasted 30years and still not flogged, but were cracked slightly as you'd expect for 30 yo rubber! If I haven't got my Hyperflex arms by the time Radius bushes are needed to be replaced, I'll go Superpro bushes there, just because imo a std OEM bush wasn't designed to handle and offset to correct the lift I have, plus its short term, but would still be a good test to see how they go, you have given yours 2 years no probs, so its not an issue for me. the big thing is use it where it makes sense imo.
Brilliant work. 👏👍 I know popping out and sliding in bushings is a difficult job, but you guys made it looked so easy and straight-forward. You gotta love having the correct tools, combined with experience and know-how. After seeing this, I too might now replace some of the bushings on my LC80. But last time I checked the original Toyota rubber bushings were still in good condition, and I don't have any jolting, vibration or unusual noises coming from my suspension. Maybe "when it ain't broke"...? 🤔 Now the next improvement that would be good to see you do is how to improve the 80's OEM handbrake. 😁
Thanks mate, means alot! Yeah you're probably all good then! And yes handbrake is next video I've gotta do! It's possible to get it to work and hold, I can get it good for a month or two then it usually goes bad, But there are things you can do to help prevent this
Yes. An upgrade handbrake would be great to see.👍 It's the Achilles' heel of the 80 Series.
nice vid but when are you going to paint it with raptor coating
Standard Toyota rubber bushings are the best replacement imo
We had the same issue with those bushings, but we made them on a lathe, out of an old forklift tire. A bit stiff but the never breaks.
especially when you do a lot of towing off-road.
I rate the super pro bushes. I did every bush in a 40 year old Gemini at the same time lowered it by 1.5" front and 2" rear. Its pretty light so I really expected extra harshness on the road compared to rubber, but no, it just felt tighter and pin point accurate.
Aussie made too, so bonus.
I wonder now how they'd go in my 2" lifted Hilux daily.... Hmmm...
where did you get the kit from mate
Hey mate, i put some links in the description!
Got the bushes for the sway bar links the other day to do soon while others are on way.. can get the sway bar link extended brackets to.
love your videos mate
Great vid Nearly at 100k subs boys keep it going strong
Great video Guys. Awesome for a DIY at home repair. I run the same suspension on my 80. Might have to go over mine now haha. ps what's the rear bar your running cheers.
Thanks mate! Yeah definitely worth checking! It's a cruiser company rear bar!
@@AussieArvos Oh nice 👍 cheers mate 👍
Be very interested in you review of these in about a year or 2.
Just out of curiosity did you replace the bushings on the sway bars too? If not why not?
Have you got extended brake lines?
Not yet!
good work, looks tighter now
😅 it's amazing how new bushes can make a vehicle... in my GU with new bushes the difference was night and day
Huge difference!!
The extended sway bar links should NOT negatively effect your onroad performance. The additional flex was only because the swaybar wasnt centered after the lift was installed and was reaching its full extention. Now youve put the extended links in, it should be centered. It will still be just as effective at stopping roll as it was from factory.
have you replaced the rear axle in the 80 series to correct the tracking issues all land cruisers have in the rear end because they more narrow than the front!!!
Good timing for this video. Im looking to do some bushes or all of if I can afford it in the next month or 2. Makes me wonder how much nicer the Paj will feel once I do them.
Huge difference! Well worth it!
@@AussieArvos Im pretty sure all the ones in my 21 year old Pajero are originals so Im sure it will make a big difference. Im noticing knocking in the back end which I believe are the bushes.
Have you adjusted the proportioning valve bracket for the rear brakes ?
Next job is the braking system, thinking of doing bigger brake upgrade as mines 1991
The castor correction bushes in the front are a reasonable Band-Aid , however the BlackHawk caster correction radius arms give way more clearance and flex and the bushes have a lifetime warranty 😊
Can always get the SuperPro version if you want the whole arm! TRC1016
Nathan at Tread Works supplied me with the same polyurethane superpro bushes and I haven't installed them yet because I didn't know if I would be better of getting rubber ones instead Thanks.
Just put the poly ones in there’s nothing wrong with polyurethane
At least ones of good quality
All OEM's put rubber in for a reason...
From the research I did before picking poly or rubber, poly has had a huge amount of development in the last 10 years, when they first came to market they were pretty average but alot has changed and as long as you are buying a good quality poly bushing I don't think you'll run into issues. Sure if you doing really hard wheeling and you need as much flex as humanly possible out of the bushes alot of the internet say rubber is better option for that.
Again I'm not an expert, and you'll find all different opinions on the internet, talk to suspension shops and see what they recommend 👍
@@hpremier817 You've got to really wonder why no professional race car team, supercar manufacturer or off road Baja Trophy truck does not use polyurethane? Poly is a joke and will not last. Plus, no matter how much you try to lube them they will squeak. Poly is just a form of plastic....it does not take to being twisted like the lower control arms of the Toyota are subjected to. But they do look flash:)
@@georgecarousos6735 exactly. Another gimmick pushed by "influencers." Rubber is far superior in every measurable way for a road going car.
Best 4WD Ever Built!
Be very interesting to see how long they last. What longevity are you hoping for Patrick?
They've got a lifetime warranty so i hopping another 30 years but will have to see !
@@AussieArvos 30 years would be fantastic. Most would be thrilled with 15 years I reckon. Be interesting to see a 1 year update and a 5 year update if you have your 80 series that long. You guys do give us some great product suggestions. 👍
That’s if there is fuel still around in 30 years. Climate change bunnies are doing their best to destroy fuel sources 😢
Where abouts did you order everything from? My 80’s about due for new bushes i think ahah
Yeah it's worth doing! Links to parts are in description 🤙
Great Video. At the end of the day it’s your car and you do whatever you want. The reason I like this channel is because I know you will let your viewers know if they are good or not!
Also what happened to your Raspberry Pi setup for transferring footage to HDs? I always thought that was a great idea, maybe not a fast enough transfer speed? Last Pi I bought was a Pi 2.
extended sway bar links won't change the handling of the car at all. all you're doing is compensating for the lift so the swaybar is level again and isn't binding at full droop which could cause a failure. the swaybar is a spring that only works when the car tilts side to side on it's suspension when one side pushes down the other side is pulled down the swaybar twists in the middle to still allow axle articulation.
Did Liam rebuild engine before turbo, I got a na td42 with half million kms and was looking into turbo Aussie Arvos
@AussieArvos
no rebuild! Liam just slapped it on and she loves it ! Hahaha, but in all seriousness its a factory turbo so the engine can handle it no issues, only running around 10psi and only a slight turn on the fuel screw
Damn you Pat! Now I'm going to have to do my bushes too!
😂😂 well worth the effort! Especially if yours are in as worse condition as mine!
@@AussieArvos 93 80. 750,000km
Great series of updates mate, mine have been done, but all OEM 🤔.
Question have you plated your steering box chassis rail and mount area yet, if not inspect and do it anyways if all good.
I'm interested to know how your SP bushing work out, my only negative to them which is not proven ime, is most of the chatter is about the bushes causing structural cracking and I'm not just talking 80s, I have heard this in the car world as well, but am not convinced, by the chatter.
But also I am reluctant to test the theories, for me when in doubt I stick with OEM, but I have gone Tough Dog and Superior and Dobinsons and many other brands so am not adverse to AFM at all, my cars too also have many mods, so by the time my 80 needs some new bushings I'll be interested to see how the SuperPro have held up on yours and also what effects if any it's had on the mighty 80 1HD-T. cheers guys keep rocking, one of my most enjoyable channels to follow, keep[it real, in the garage and on the BT & DT cheers 🤘
Hi Maverick! Thanks for the comment, i haven't plated the chassis but i haven't got any cracks (yet) hahaha!
Yeah ill have to see how they go. Agreed, they don't have the proven time that rubber bushings have had, but i'm interested to see how they go, i've seen the stuff about cracking diffs etc. seems pretty full on, but ill keep monitoring it, i'm pretty confident that these will be fine on the 80 but i'll provide an indepth update on them in the future. Thanks for watching the channel, it really means alot! All the best, - Patrick
Good video. Poly bushes in the front. Rubber in the rear. Sway bar links or brackets should have been extended when you did the lift. You should do the front also. Sway bar ends should sit fairly level, not at an angle.
Not sure about the 80, but if you don't put sway bar brackets on my 105, the front driveshaft may hit the sway bar on full droop 👍
There's quite a lot of hate towards anything that isn't rubber for bushings and I think a lot of that hate comes off how poly bushings used to be. I replaced some components on my AU with Superpro a couple years ago now and wish I did the change earlier. Barely affected NVH in my case. Granted I wouldn't use nolathane for anything, but superpro seem to produce some quality products and great replacement options.
It's also true what they say regarding each component is designed with different mixtures, they all feel different in the hand depending on their desired purpose. A swaybar bushing feels different to a control arm bush and so on.
I have a 60 series that can have a mind of its own, 2" lift and 33s. Steering dead center, it can just wander around, or tramline at low speed and Toyota's power steering is so over assisted so you get very little steering feel. Hence, I'm not brave enough to take it on a long 80-100km/h trip yet. I'm on a mission to replace majority of the suspension components, badly needs new body mounts as well. I wouldn't have a clue what a well sorted 60 is like to drive but it can't be half as bad, if there's any other 60 owners here I'd love any feedback on what they've done.
Have you checked your steering box for wear, you could try just a half turn on the adjuster but be carefull because if the balls have worn the worm it will jam in the straight ahead position or become very stiff in that position, means a steering box rebuild.
@@brianross4057 Thanks Brian, Ill give it a look. I had my own suspicions it may be the steering box
On ya mate!
Cheers Jamal!
I have 4wd Mitsubishi triton 2014 , do you reckon it has pushings
all cars have bushings
@uncommonsense5447 that means they need service 100 percent, do you have any idea how much it costs to replace them?
I thought on the polyurethane bushes you had to use the old rubber housing?
Swap you my 90 series LOL. Another great vid keep it rolling boys ,cheers
Thanks mate!
You don't really need weight on the vehicle to tension the suspension with poly bushes.
The pins pivit inside the bush unlike rubber where they are bonded.
Bad choice for an 80 series imo. I've seen these exact bushes in and 80 series ovalize around the pin (and the pin get eaten away) which just ends up causing play - they were ~6months old. The car was used for touring and the lubricant quickly dissapears with water crossings/dust etc. Just too many moving sections that a genuine rubber bush doesn't have - its literally just the rubber flexing, nothing rotates and theres nowhere for debris to get stuck/create wear.
I particularly dislike them in the radius arms due to being stiffer, reduce flex and put more stress on the mounts when flexing, which can (I've seen it twice now) break the mounts off the housing.
My own car has these bushes in it from a previous owner and they all have play in them too. They just seem to wear out around the pin. This is where bonded rubber to a centre sleeve is far superior imo - the rubber literally has to break off to create play, but the bush is typically very old by the time that happens, or the rubber fails first.
The genuine rubber just work. Last ages, flex well, comfortable (not as stiff) and less noise/vibration. Don't fix what aint broke imo. but regardless, I'll be interested to see your update in the future and see your findings with them.
Thanks for all this info, i'm going to keep a close eye on them, i'll keep everyone updated on how they go! but thanks for all this info, i really appreciate it !
If your looking for flex off-road you can disconnect one sway bar link and it’ll be sweet
Love this video, and absolutely love the new phonk songs playing, in this vid gives the video such a fresh vibe. Do you mind me asking where you find your copyright free Phonk music
Thanks for the content!
No worries!
Thanks dude
how much did all the bushes cost?
30 yr old factory bush tells you all you need to know
Completely irrelevant to the vid, but how have you found the OCAM awning? I'm looking at getting one for my N80 hilux
The original rubber bushes lasted to 150k. Never made any strange noises.
The new " life time" poly bushes, when subjected to some four wheeling are looking stressed and chewed up after 1000k. Also make horrible squelchy noises.
Not completely buggered yet, but they clearly don't compare to the longevity of quality rubber bushes.
Did u look at sway bar disconnects?
rooted is a technical term yeh ?
yep!
Riddle me this. The old poly ones were flogged out, and the original rubber ones were good.
Yet you went poly.
The new poly ones do not have a new recipe. It's been the same for decades. It's all a sales pitch for dummies.
Might pay to mention that no swaybar means no valid insurance as it would be deemed unroadworthy!😘
Never go poly. Even the new ones are shit.
Why do you ca them bushings when they are bushes?
not replacing those parts passes the stress to other parts of the car that are good therefore creating additional wear
Rubber only!
You can likely feel more differance with new body mounts also
Put an auto gearbox in
I’f you haven’t already run a front and rear adjustable pan hard rod on your diffs. You’ll find when you lifted the car it would have pulled your doffs off centre
I tell myself the same every time I get in my old lancer.
I prefer the money in the bank.
Should of went rubber more movement in rubber poly has not much movement and they crumble and squash the answer is there in the uppers 30 years 🤔 and still working 👌
put some oil or water on those rubber bushings and watch them disintegrate over time.
I fitted superpro polyurethane bushes to my old GQ wagon (needed all new bushes for a roadworthy, as the 27 year old factory rubber ones borderline wouldn't pass). I drove the car around for two years, mostly highway driving, some local dirt roads and maybe one day of four wheel driving every two months. The superpro bushes were practically falling out of the car after two years. Knocks and bonks as you turned corners or went over speed bumps, the car would buck from the rear end if you planted your foot as the slop in the bushes took up. Just absolute junk. The worst part is, what I paid for those bushes at Bursons wasn't that much cheaper than genuine Nissan ones from Patrolapart.
Hey, thanks for the info, i'm going to be pretty mad if mine flog out quickly as you said, meant to have lifetime warrenty, i'm going to keep a close eye on them, will keep you updated. Thanks for the heads up
@@AussieArvos sorry to bring the bad news man.
It especially hurt me at the time, working in a low paying, somewhat seasonal casual job. I ended up getting some second hand arms with reasonable condition factory bushes to replaces them as needed. It got me by, but the lesson was definitely learnt the hard way. They do have a lifetime warranty, but considering how quickly they fell apart, and it would mean having my car off the road whilst negotiating with the retailer to honor the warranty ot just wasn't worth the gamble that a new batch *might* last longer.
My new GQ wagon so far has Roadsafe arms under it, all of which come fitted with genuine Nissan bushes, also plan to get some Superior hybrid radius arms some day too, which use genuine Nissan (diff end) and genuine Toyota (modified chassis end) bushes. I figure if roadsafe and Superior are putting genuine rubber bushes in their gear, there's probably not any better options out there...
With the poly bushes you don't need to drop the car to ride height as the tube is free to spin inside the bush unlike molded rubber bushes👍👍
Thanks for that Daniel! I remember doing that with my rubber bushings in Panhard but didn't realise you didn't need to with poly! Thanks for that !
@@AussieArvos definitely good practice to keep in mind but yeah with poly, it's MUCH easier when you can leave the hoist up.
I was going to say the same, you bet me too it.