I love how whether it's a turbo conversion or changing your windscreen wipers you guys always take it out for a spin at the end of the episode. The 80's looking awesome.
The rig is looking good boys. Love your content. Nice to see sensible young lads , not too driven by silly trends. Keep it coming, cheers from an old man on the road.
Great vid boys. I notice you didnt replace the bush at the other end of the radius arm. Just a tip, do it right do it once. A half assed job just creates more work. when you pull bits off the rig, always be thorough, clean everything, paint bits that need paint, Replace all bushes etc. That way your pride and joy will last for many years without fail. Do it right do it once! Well done young fellas 👍do it as dan would do it 😉 Properly 1st time every time. Dont forget to get a wheel alignment!
Increasing the offset increases the track width which can reduce the negative impacts of lifting the suspension, creating more stability. Further, tyres that are slightly outside the guards will protect the body work significantly better. For a slight increase in wheel bearing wear, I think it's a worth it.
Love the channel, great content especially considering how restricted you are due to lockdown. Can never get too much of Patrick's genuine enthusiasm. Keep it up guys.
Been following you since you started. You have come a long way. Don't be like these rest of the Knobs that spend over 200k on there Bling Busters. I've had my 80 for over 25 years now. You remind me when I first got it by putting mods on over the years. Taking some off and trying new ones. Weld some 5mm plate over the Corners of your bar and weld some Rectangular Tubing on Bull Bar and rear Bar for high lift. Scrub Bars are great too . I've hit over 100 Roos in mine over the Years and scrub Bars just beef your Bull Bar Up. I also welded another Bar underneath to help protect steering Arm. Love to have your Young Energy these Days. Keep it up. Enjoy your Channel.
extend your brake lines. that is what was preventing you from easily fitting the lifted springs. hopefully the new shocks arent long enough to allow the brake lines to strech while wheeling
You have forgotten the most important mod of all for your 80! The temp sender is high on a 80, and if you crack a hose or loose Coolent the Sender remembers last temp when it was covered by Coolent. I have found this out the Hard Way. Since then I have Fitted a Engine Gaurd with a single Head sender mounted to the Head giving a Accurate Temp reading of Head. I have had it on over 5 years now and has saved my engine a few times. Piece of mind for $100 and 30min to install. ITS A MUST!
Guys I’m basically 2 weeks behind all your videos fitting out the same stuff lol, one thing I’ll say is PLEASE don’t raptor coat the cruiser cos I can see it happening. Give it a normal repaint.
awesome vid guys! would like to see one where you explain tyre and rim selection and how they're sized etc in more detail if you are looking for ideas. hopefully run into you in the high country once lockdown is over!
You guys create some awesome content. Lockdown should be ending soon, even though I'm a Patrol guy I'm looking forward to seeing the 80 in the Vic High Country.
Looking good boys. 👍 If you don't have a spring compression tool, using a quality ratchet strap would also work. Probably quicker than removing the sway bars of your 80.
The 80 is coming along nicely fellas!! Just raised my 105 yesterday, the ride is so much better with all new and greased bushes. Can’t wait to see what rear bar you go for. Keep up the great work boys 🤙🏻
Those shock absorber bellows are great for sucking in wheel well dust & grit & grinding out the piston seal leading to gas & oil leak & failure. Get shocks with a solid upper tubular plastic or metal shroud.
If you use an oxygen to heat up the bushing hole mount thing a bit they go in easier by no means do I mean cherry red but warm it up it helps just a little advice I've done before
Keep the bushes in the freezer overnight and lightly heat the arm with a blowtorch prior to pressing in creating an interference fit using thermal expansion
Ok just a tip, try heating the bar at the hole with a butane torch to expand the metal, this will allow the bushing to go in with less resistance. Great choice in wheels. Steel is best for 4x4.
Depending on your area I run 35s daily and have had 33s. Generally 35s mean you will be at a lower rpm when sitting on 100 but take more to get the rolling due to being larger and having a high rolling resistance
Not in my experience. Going from 31s to 33s I went from 13lts to 14lt per 100, then went 35s I get 15lt. Crd patrol. Same as power, noticed more difference going from 31 at to 33 my.
G'day mate just a suggestion maybe look into sound deadening for the shed walls to try and reduce the echo, us hard of hearing would greatly appreciate it. Cheers keep up the good stuff.
Noticed you said drivers side was lower after lifting, did you make sure to put the longer front spring into the drivers side? It is to account for drivers weight
Be sure to check if you need to fit extended front sway bar mount brackets. On the LC105, when adding a suspension lift, the front tail-shaft can hit the sway bar at full droop. Not sure if this applies to the 80 series, but suspension in both vehicles is pretty much the same.
If your using a template to locate the offset bushes it's easiest to just pull the arms out one at a time on the ground without jacking the car out. It's safe to have it sitting on its own weight with just one arm in, press the bushes on one arm, bolt the front and rear bolt in. Do the other arm and bolt front and rear in then just jack the control arm up at that middle bush until it lines up
those bushes will break the mounts off your diff. only use rubber bushes, castor plates are the way to do it if you dont want to buy arms. keep up the good work boys
Awesome video guys!! Just wondering how much clearance between radius arms and rod bar have you got after you done the lift and bushes all that? Thanks
It would be worth checking your big end/conrod bearings in the 1hdt`s they are a serviceable item, meant to be done every 100,000 kms I did mine and #5 and #6 were buggered
Hi guys. Love your videos. I'm interested in knowing if you have any issues with vibration in regards to pinion angle on the rear and if so how have you remedy that problem. Keep the videos coming. Cheers
you didnt opt for the slightly longer spring on the drivers side? when you get in alone it will droop more than that 5 mil difference and make it bigger
Swap them bushes out for a set of new rubber ones and get some drop boxes or new arms. Or at the minimum get some rampt customs reinforcement plates so your diff mounts don’t crack
Still loving the vids boys! I had castor correction bushes on my 80, lasted all but 6months…. I’ve gone with new radius arms that are made for my lift… mines 4” though, 2” could be different 🤷🏻♂️ Keep it up legends!
Hey man, few months on now, how'd you go with the 300-500 constants? I have a similar drawer and fridge set up with a rear wheel carrier (just the carrier, not the bar)... I've opted for 100-250.
making my old troopy look like a bit of a tractor in comparison haha. Don't forget to slap some rated recovery points on sometime! Cheap and great safety upgrade
I have a question for you experts in the 4x4 sector! (and I would like to know if you can tell me if it is true that the ironman nitro gas shock absorbers go well with the original set-up and can be adapted with the +5? I have a Suzuki jimny 4x4 with m13a 1.3 l petrol engine with shock absorbers and standard settings, yesterday afternoon I picked up the new ironman nitro gas shock absorbers and the 4x4 spare parts dealer in Florence told me that these ironman nitro gas shock absorbers are ok for 4x4 off-road vehicles with stock trim or in a second you could put the springs higher and it becomes a +5 high trim is that true? Greetings from Florence Italy!)
Be careful with castor correctio bushes, the rubber will not move as it should due to it not being constant even on all sides. Get a brace kit and weld tgem on to your diff mounts, common for them to crack and break on the diff.
Don't put a cable tie on the bottom cause eventually the boot will split woth 4x4ing and it will fill up with water and dirt and mud and all that and if the bottom is tied to can't get put. I had thrm ties top and bottom on mine for ages. But had splits in the boots lifted the boot up and the shock had rust all in it
I love how whether it's a turbo conversion or changing your windscreen wipers you guys always take it out for a spin at the end of the episode. The 80's looking awesome.
The rig is looking good boys. Love your content. Nice to see sensible young lads , not too driven by silly trends. Keep it coming, cheers from an old man on the road.
Thank you Wobbly! Much appreciated!
To make it easier lads put the bushes in the freezer before pressing them in
Best youtube channel of 2021. Well done boys
Too kind! Thanks Samuel!
Great vid boys. I notice you didnt replace the bush at the other end of the radius arm. Just a tip, do it right do it once. A half assed job just creates more work. when you pull bits off the rig, always be thorough, clean everything, paint bits that need paint, Replace all bushes etc. That way your pride and joy will last for many years without fail. Do it right do it once! Well done young fellas 👍do it as dan would do it 😉 Properly 1st time every time. Dont forget to get a wheel alignment!
Thanks Mike, Yeah, we really should of replaced them , luckily they were still in pretty good nick, but they will need doing eventually!
@@AussieArvos I think you mean 'Have' not 'of'. Cheers lads. Stella job
great to have all these sponsors behind you for the build series, keep it up mate
Thanks ivor!
Love the channel guys. Great to see young blokes having a go.
Thanks Thomas! really appreciate it mate!
Been looking forward to this one looking sick boys
Thanks Jake!
Increasing the offset increases the track width which can reduce the negative impacts of lifting the suspension, creating more stability. Further, tyres that are slightly outside the guards will protect the body work significantly better. For a slight increase in wheel bearing wear, I think it's a worth it.
Going from a +10 to a -22 offset rim in my gu is one of the best things I ever did so much more stable
Yes!! Finally 🔥 looking awesome boys!
Use dishwashing liquid instead of grease. It will dry out once it’s in whereas grease wont. Great video blokes !!
Oh man I am so excited for you guys . Can't wait for you guys hit the tracks.
Thanks mate! :)
Love the channel, great content especially considering how restricted you are due to lockdown. Can never get too much of Patrick's genuine enthusiasm. Keep it up guys.
Thanks mate 😊 means alot!
Been following you since you started. You have come a long way.
Don't be like these rest of the Knobs that spend over 200k on there Bling Busters.
I've had my 80 for over 25 years now.
You remind me when I first got it by putting mods on over the years. Taking some off and trying new ones.
Weld some 5mm plate over the Corners of your bar and weld some Rectangular Tubing on Bull Bar and rear Bar for high lift.
Scrub Bars are great too . I've hit over 100 Roos in mine over the Years and scrub Bars just beef your Bull Bar Up.
I also welded another Bar underneath to help protect steering Arm.
Love to have your Young Energy these Days.
Keep it up. Enjoy your Channel.
extend your brake lines. that is what was preventing you from easily fitting the lifted springs. hopefully the new shocks arent long enough to allow the brake lines to strech while wheeling
You have forgotten the most important mod of all for your 80!
The temp sender is high on a 80, and if you crack a hose or loose Coolent the Sender remembers last temp when it was covered by Coolent.
I have found this out the Hard Way. Since then I have Fitted a Engine Gaurd with a single Head sender mounted to the Head giving a Accurate Temp reading of Head.
I have had it on over 5 years now and has saved my engine a few times.
Piece of mind for $100 and 30min to install. ITS A MUST!
Great instructional video!
Where is 24:29 as I need to test my newly installed lockers during the lockdown but can't go regional yet today. Thanks.
Guys I’m basically 2 weeks behind all your videos fitting out the same stuff lol, one thing I’ll say is PLEASE don’t raptor coat the cruiser cos I can see it happening. Give it a normal repaint.
$10k for respray, $1500 for Raptor. I know what I will be doing
@@GolightlyR3 Not if they do it themselves.
Definitely don't raptor. It will kill the clean lines of the 80. Raptor just makes a car look like it's been bogged and primed before painting.
+1 for no raptor coating it looks cheap and nasty.
@@GolightlyR3 1.5k to make your car look like aborted sandpaper is still over priced 😂
Awesome work boys! Appreciate the mature approach not just throw 37s on etc 🤣
Good mods, proper set up for tough touring.
awesome vid guys! would like to see one where you explain tyre and rim selection and how they're sized etc in more detail if you are looking for ideas. hopefully run into you in the high country once lockdown is over!
Definitely ! Thanks Mec!
Great vlog boys! 80's looking the goods! Well done.
Love how you guys work reminds me of my earlier days. Great job👍👍👍
Great work guys. And love the detailed descriptions of why you made the decisions you did. Looks fantastic!
You guys create some awesome content. Lockdown should be ending soon, even though I'm a Patrol guy I'm looking forward to seeing the 80 in the Vic High Country.
Thanks mate! really appreciate the kind words! can't wait till lockdown is over!
Looking good boys. 👍 If you don't have a spring compression tool, using a quality ratchet strap would also work. Probably quicker than removing the sway bars of your 80.
What about thanks to Liam 😅 top bloke he is!
Bit of pre heats boys! ...makes life easy when doing bushes.
Just Bought A Tee And A Stickers I've Been Watching You Guys For A While Keep Up The Good Vids 👍
Awesome video!
Killing it boys 💪💪
The 80 is coming along nicely fellas!! Just raised my 105 yesterday, the ride is so much better with all new and greased bushes. Can’t wait to see what rear bar you go for. Keep up the great work boys 🤙🏻
Thanks Geoff! Can't wait!
Another great video!!!!!!! Tip toes to get awning out now🤣🙌🏽🙌🏽🙌🏽
Those shock absorber bellows are great for sucking in wheel well dust & grit & grinding out the piston seal leading to gas & oil leak & failure. Get shocks with a solid upper tubular plastic or metal shroud.
What brand are the tyres are the tyres any idea we’re I can get a set from Mackay?
Awesome!!! Looks like you are having a great time there.
Maybe see if you can get a set of quick disconnect swaybar ends for the gnarly tracks😁
Love the work boys 👌
Thank you James!!
mint video boys the 80 is looking sick!
when i changed mine, the panhards were a must do!!! cant wait to have a drive with you guys!
Yeah. I snapped a really good old vice doing that a few years ago. A press from Supacheap or similar is cheaper than a new vice. Great video, boys 😀
If you use an oxygen to heat up the bushing hole mount thing a bit they go in easier by no means do I mean cherry red but warm it up it helps just a little advice I've done before
I got the same set through Nathan when I saw Dan's GQ. Keep up the videos coming
The 80 is looking the goods Pat 👍🏾
Lokka Next Bud, Keep It up
Keep the bushes in the freezer overnight and lightly heat the arm with a blowtorch prior to pressing in creating an interference fit using thermal expansion
Ok just a tip, try heating the bar at the hole with a butane torch to expand the metal, this will allow the bushing to go in with less resistance. Great choice in wheels. Steel is best for 4x4.
Wouldn't expanding the steel make it more difficult to press bushes in?
Beast mode activated! She looks sweet up high now. Tough as.
My experience with tyre/wheel size is a fair drop in fuel economy in 35s over 33s.
Yeah that and legality is main reasons! Thanks mate!
Depending on your area I run 35s daily and have had 33s. Generally 35s mean you will be at a lower rpm when sitting on 100 but take more to get the rolling due to being larger and having a high rolling resistance
Not in my experience. Going from 31s to 33s I went from 13lts to 14lt per 100, then went 35s I get 15lt. Crd patrol. Same as power, noticed more difference going from 31 at to 33 my.
@@jarrod1687 wierd. You've got an anti physics patrol. Hang on to it it might have alien tech inside 🤣🤙
@@sloth_e lol anti physics patrol. To be fair though I did states it went from 13 per hundred to 15. Not as big of difference as I'd expected
Awesome job lads 🤟🍻
Thanks Kurt!
Good vid boys
80s looking mint
Probably worth checking brake lines front looked like it was pulling pretty tight when up on the hoist
Did anyone else pick the music at 11:22 ? Same as the off the ranch youtube channel's intro. What is the name of it?
When pressing something in use dish soap it can work pretty good they dry up pretty quick too also when did you install the side steps?
A couple videos ago! They really stand out now with the lift!
Awesome! I really have to get around to doing that correction some time too...
G'day mate just a suggestion maybe look into sound deadening for the shed walls to try and reduce the echo, us hard of hearing would greatly appreciate it. Cheers keep up the good stuff.
Noticed you said drivers side was lower after lifting, did you make sure to put the longer front spring into the drivers side? It is to account for drivers weight
awesome stuff good job guys yeh thats what ive got just 2 inch lift thats all yah need what ya done there awesome big thumbs up
Patty you need to wrap it black ;)
So 1year later how are your radius arm mounts holding up? Our have already started to crack
hey mate just wondering how do you rate this lift kit from fulcrum suspension? im looking at the same kit for my 80. cheers
Be sure to check if you need to fit extended front sway bar mount brackets. On the LC105, when adding a suspension lift, the front tail-shaft can hit the sway bar at full droop. Not sure if this applies to the 80 series, but suspension in both vehicles is pretty much the same.
Hey guys
Just wondering were I can get the 305s wind force catch force tyres
Can you send a link to there website
If your using a template to locate the offset bushes it's easiest to just pull the arms out one at a time on the ground without jacking the car out. It's safe to have it sitting on its own weight with just one arm in, press the bushes on one arm, bolt the front and rear bolt in. Do the other arm and bolt front and rear in then just jack the control arm up at that middle bush until it lines up
those bushes will break the mounts off your diff. only use rubber bushes, castor plates are the way to do it if you dont want to buy arms. keep up the good work boys
Where is the track you guys tested the suspension on?
Awesome video guys!! Just wondering how much clearance between radius arms and rod bar have you got after you done the lift and bushes all that?
Thanks
Great video.
Watching the front brake line about to snap when trying to lower the diff like 😬😬😬
hahaha it was close!
Definitely a rear swing bar at the rear coming up
It would be worth checking your big end/conrod bearings in the 1hdt`s they are a serviceable item, meant to be done every 100,000 kms I did mine and #5 and #6 were buggered
Hey Patrick when you're going down hill if you don't already know don't use your brakes just 1st low and let the car do its own thing 😎
Hey patty wanna send a link for the muddies or tell where I can look for them on over here in SA
Most tyre shops should be able to order them in, but here is a link www.tyroola.com.au/tyre/windforce/
I think imma just ask the shop to do it, that contraption is scary 😂
Hi guys. Love your videos. I'm interested in knowing if you have any issues with vibration in regards to pinion angle on the rear and if so how have you remedy that problem. Keep the videos coming. Cheers
Nice work ! Love how you blokes have a crack !
Please make a vid on how it rides with the 350 500kg springs in the back when its loaded up!!!
Nice work boys!!
Thank you!
you didnt opt for the slightly longer spring on the drivers side? when you get in alone it will droop more than that 5 mil difference and make it bigger
Swap them bushes out for a set of new rubber ones and get some drop boxes or new arms. Or at the minimum get some rampt customs reinforcement plates so your diff mounts don’t crack
Liam needs to coil swap the patrol. That would be a good episode
That blue smoke when heading up your driveway. turbo seals wheeping or valve stems lads?
6:46 base on my own experience, never use a cheater bar on a vise... the vise will breaks..
Spending up large! Those brakes look tiny 😂
Still loving the vids boys!
I had castor correction bushes on my 80, lasted all but 6months…. I’ve gone with new radius arms that are made for my lift… mines 4” though, 2” could be different 🤷🏻♂️
Keep it up legends!
Best thing I did on my 80 get the adjustable pan hards handles much better
Good stuff boys, I fitted the same rated springs to my 80 series but I went Tarrain Tamer shocks and 315/75 16's...
Hey guys I’m looking to buy some new tyres for my rims how well do those tyres preform they worth running (gu zd30)
For metal bushing put them in the freezer for a couple hours before the cold makes the metal "shrink"
was the height increase including the new tires or was that just the suspension lift?
Hey man, few months on now, how'd you go with the 300-500 constants? I have a similar drawer and fridge set up with a rear wheel carrier (just the carrier, not the bar)... I've opted for 100-250.
Cars been sitting perfectly!!! 🙏🙏🙏
I’ve got 35s on 2 inch in my 80 and it does just scrub on full flex but isn’t a issue
You guys Should make a video on respraying the cruiser and the gq
making my old troopy look like a bit of a tractor in comparison haha. Don't forget to slap some rated recovery points on sometime! Cheap and great safety upgrade
I have a question for you experts in the 4x4 sector! (and I would like to know if you can tell me if it is true that the ironman nitro gas shock absorbers go well with the original set-up and can be adapted with the +5? I have a Suzuki jimny 4x4 with m13a 1.3 l petrol engine with shock absorbers and standard settings, yesterday afternoon I picked up the new ironman nitro gas shock absorbers and the 4x4 spare parts dealer in Florence told me that these ironman nitro gas shock absorbers are ok for 4x4 off-road vehicles with stock trim or in a second you could put the springs higher and it becomes a +5 high trim is that true? Greetings from Florence Italy!)
Nice the springs will settle.
Woohoo I love your videos
Be careful with castor correctio bushes, the rubber will not move as it should due to it not being constant even on all sides. Get a brace kit and weld tgem on to your diff mounts, common for them to crack and break on the diff.
shoud put a snokel on it
Don't put a cable tie on the bottom cause eventually the boot will split woth 4x4ing and it will fill up with water and dirt and mud and all that and if the bottom is tied to can't get put. I had thrm ties top and bottom on mine for ages. But had splits in the boots lifted the boot up and the shock had rust all in it
With all the mods have you changed the big end bearing lately ????
What pillar gauge are you using? I can’t find one
JRP Edge display gauges with a SAAS pillar pod
@@AussieArvos you’re a life saver brother! Get more hoodie sizes soon please!
G'day mate love your info where did you get your bull and scrub bars from cheers
Bull bar is a old TJM Highmount winch bar (TJM T13) and sliders are from Legendx