We Fixed the Landcruisers' BIGGEST Problem
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ม.ค. 2025
- Today on Aussie Arvos we are beginning the work on the 80 series restoration, with major repairs to the diff and chassis, and brand new suspension, lifting the 80!
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A big few days in the shed but couldn't be
happier with the result.
Repaired and Braced Radius arm mounts on diff
Braced Steering box & Panhard Mount
@superprosuspension Lift Correction Arms
3-4 Inch Adjustable F4R @formula.4x4 Shocks
3 inch Springs
New @_whiteline front panhard & Adjustable upper
arms
New Sway bar bushes and spacer kit from
@superprosuspension
Fresh coat of paint for other components that were
keeping in !
Stay tuned, the visual overhaul comes next!
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Follow Patrick @ / thepatrickj
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#4x4 #suspension #4WD
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#4x4 #suspension #4WD
You young blokes have come so far. Brilliant work. Very impressive.
Congrats all round.
Thanks Ranger! Means alot mate !
One thing I love about this and other channels the technical content you guys provide. It's not always about wheeling some tough tracks, and it's always good to see and understand the more technical side of your rig.
Awesome video guys, keep it up. Cheers from the States. 🍻
Thanks mate! Yeah I'm learning a heap throughout this whole process and it's been great! Thanks for the kind words, really appreciate it!
Fantastic work Liam. Nothing like seeing someone who takes pride on what they do. And Pat, another episode you hit out of the park. Brilliant storytelling and editing. 👍
Thanks Fatman! Appreciate the kind words ! ☺️
Wow ... stumbled across the channel when you had a hand full of subscribers and was so impressed with your "give it ago" attitude and what I think of as old school fun. Amazed at how the years have seen you go for young boys challenging yourself to accomplished young men. So good to see. Just an old blokes view.
Awh thanks Glenn! Means alot mate! Thanks for sticking around all those years !
You're lucky to have Liam with you working with you.
Dream best friend !
There brothers
What you have missed is that steering box. Best thing is to find a later 105 box around late 2000 build has the bigger selector shaft or buy the new shaft and pitman arm and put it in your 80 box. Just exactly what I’ve done and had no issues.
It isn't castor correction that breaks the brackets, it's the stiffer poly bushes.
It's good seeing the 80 get a bit of love ❤️
For peace of mind, you can buy a 105 steering box sector shaft upgrade kit which just bolts in back on the factory chassis mounts !
This episode is just another excellent example of what the Aussie Arvos team keeps on presenting. I’m looking forward to all the episodes of this 80 series build. Your repair work on the front axle assembly is amazing. Obviously a lot of research done in the repairs. I’d like to share a little industry experience from my work life. I would recommend inspecting your front bearings after all the welding repairs. When welding on structures/assemblies with bearings installed the electric currents involved can cause damage to bearings between the races and rolling elements, balls/rollers. After all of your good work you don’t want a bearing failure when you do some serious 4 wheeling.
You blokes are the definition of "Giving it a go". Good work fellas!
Nothing inspires me to go take care of my 4by like you guys. Smashing it. Can't wait for the surprise underneath next week!!
Finally more 80 stuff
We've back!!
the sponsorships are wild in this video love it good to see
You’ve been running the bushes and it’s now cracked. Won’t happen overnight. I’m running 35s on an 80 for 10 years with hard wheeling and with proper arms never had this issue
100%.
Bang on.
Yea be the shocks and coils r just dog shit
Great work, fellas. Nice welding, Liam and a fab improvement from previous. It shows what you have to pay to play (sort of) but your 80 is now very much more capable. Intrigued to know what the next episode covers and it'll be good to see how it site with all the gear back in. Very cool!!
Thanks mate!! That's it haha !
I have found the same issues with castor correction bushes I either go through them quickly as I wheel a bit harder than you guys, but also I don't carry the gear that you do!
I have checked the same areas as yours for cracks mine are good, but the main reason I believe your drive side radius arm bracket failed is poly bushes!
I have used std bushes and poly, including superpro and some others, eg I have a temp set of shocks up from for awhile by Raw, shocks performed great, but I can feel the NVH from the massive poly bushes, I didn't have them on long enough to create additional issues!
I have sent many emails to Superpro re my SP sway bars front and rear, my main issue was with the front and Im still not 100% happy with it.
The rear I had a failure on the super beefy links, the bottom washer on the link pin pushed through and over the shaft to the bottom of the ling connection to the sway bar on a recent day tip up a pretty challenging high country river we crossed up and down thee and back at least 60 times, lost count, depth fender flare height and big boulders, lots of fun, eg combining river white water flow reading boulders to navigate through, I never got stuck, but did rescue a GU Patrol turtled on a rock mid stream in the power current, 1 to the 80s! so contacted SP about this no reply! Not asking for anything just info! NO REPLY.
I wont buy SP again! or Poly on a 4wd! or recommended them to anyone again!
I have found other options for links and also I went and bought high tensile steel replacement washers from a bolt and washer shop, and installed OEM bushes in place of the poly ones, so they wont do that again! Generally I was happy with the drivability upgrade at the rear with the SP bar, until that happened, I will be going to a Anti Rock style front and rear in future, by Rampt Customs! That's my plans for future.
This is the reason, Poly does not absorb impacts small or high or constant, this is my experience, not opinion, it transfer shock and over time, weakens key areas on your components, chassis and brackets that are factory welded and not braced.
I don't car if you have a Patrol or Landcrusier if wheeling hard, not comp style but harder than touring, definitely stick with OEM bushes at all costs and do invest in brace kits they are cheap and find a friend if you don't have one to weld them up!
I wont ever use Poly again in Radius arms or swap bar links! and Doubt Id use them anywhere else on my 4wds, they have a place, but I don't care what brand what marketing they say, they transfer shock load, it wont happen straight away and this is the factor that many are misguided by.
But as you are finding out it has transferred that shock load into many areas of your component mounts and chassis!
I have done a sector shaft upgrade on my steering box and chassis plates, I have inspected my rad arm mounts and haven't braced those as yet as I'm still internally debating flipped vs Superior Hyperflex!
Good stuff lads, might add more as I re watch the video again!
Those Big Bore shocks performed well over the time you used them too, Fulcrum did good.
ps big fan of Rampt Customs, well done lads, you are on the good stuff, now!
Congrats on the upgrades though, it does look sick, look forward to what rims ya put on there and what tires, next.🤘
So a couple of other tips and options!
Once you lift higher than 2" or 50mm castor corrected arms arent the only option, def do not use CC bushes, nono, or imo a drop box!
Option2!
You can use a flipped arm kit, eg Rampt have a kit for $180 AUD, if ya welding like you guys you could have done that, retained same arms, gained clearance and retained the flex and articulation, biggest benefit is you can use std OEM bushes and they wont flog out and the 80 esp will drive way better!
Now another thing and this is important, with all ya improvements and upgrades underneath, seriously suggest a sector shaft up grade kit, for your 80s steering box! I was lucky my club did a bulk purchase so we got a great price last year sometime!
It wont be if but when ya break that, it will happen and when it does you will be in shit creek without a paddle, trust me I know we had one happen not mine on the opposite coast and it was a mission to get another one there and then a job to swap out in the bush, different in a shed, the vehicle was not leaving the bush without it, grade 5, deep shit territory! on 35s so you have been warned, there are no shortcuts once you start upgrading, trust me!
Front Sway Bar !!!!
PSE PSE PSE if anything else, please do this..
Get rid of the early sway bar chassis mounts like you have the straight pin with sperate bushes to the shitty flat style chassis mount, they are weak link and with your lift (perfect for an 80s btw, props guys) and 35s they will rip out of the chassis, creak and bind like frick, the below articulate and line up way better on the sway bar and will out last the early gen 80s ones like yours and mine old ones hands down! Its a no brainer esp when you compare them, I got mine from a wrecker including the dog link bushs links for under $100 been flawless.
PN# 48802F dog links bush type
PN# 48829 LH chassis mount 4 bolt
PN# 48824 RH chassis mount 4 bolt
4 bolt hole, 2 underneath perfect fit,, thank you MR Toyota, rare u do that. the 80s earlier model has the center chassis mount hole but no captive nut, you will need a M8 nutsert well what I used, and an angle drill to drill the top hole and nut sert that, D/S have to remove pipe between ya dump pipe and rear exhaust section simple to do!, front drive shaft remove as well to make it easier, trust me it will.
Also not the bottom of the link the saddle holes on the yours have a 60mm eye hole, the later ones have a 70mm eye to eye, so pick up the sway bar and links brackets and saddles at the wreckers, should get it under 200 easy, now the later sway bar model is larger diam and you wont need to upgrade to a Superpro like I did, I may yet do that myself if the Superpro front SWB continues to give me trouble!
Ps I am a guy generally gives companies a chance to feedback ideas or suggestions if setup or installed incorrect, I work in the industry and know how hard it is to satisfy customers, but replying being open and helpful goes a hell of a long way, I will stick with a brand or coy who does that, rec them and be very loyal, I have had some great experiences with some companies and they are quick to dispatch parts products and gear, cost these days is always a factor but service beats all and trumps issues, especially when you are not close to or down the road from those suppliers or warehouses, that's when it really counts, often we need shit yesterday, we plan for the best sometimes shit happens and what you think was the issue turns out to be something else! Ex I ordered a WB kit on Thursday from the other end of my country, got here next day, they always do that and are freaking legends and I will use them for life while they are like that. I also ordered a part on Wednesday same region, a part they didn't have so from another supplier, its not going to arrive here till next Tuesday and its more critical as it turns out, as when I checked the wheel bearings front on Sat it turns out just a readjustment was ness, where as my drivers side window, I cant lower and its freaking hot at the mo, regulator switches are worn, yes I have had it apart and did a temp repair but its suss! just a example.
So dont mean to crap on SP or anyone else but that shit matters to me, I try to always provide the same to my customers and pride myself on all orders ad support and provide info even if its not my responsibility, if I can help some one I will.
I got some advice once from a very senior big Corp CEO, treat all customers the same whether they spend $20 or 20,000 they are both valuable and you never know who might turn into a high value client, he was right, more often than not that $20 client turned into the best clients where as a one off big spender, was a nightmare! I don't judge, just do best service possible.
Just a explanation of the above re the Poly criticisms from me which again are from experiences not opinions!
Cheers guys 🤘
@@maverick2242 Wow great post & info. 👍
@@craigparker4108 cheers, these lads are awesome, I learn as much from them, just hope I can be of help to all as well. thanks mate👍
Nice job guys, I've always leaned towards a 3 inch lift just concerned around 35's for a couple of reasons but Will wait for your video on that subject haha.
Have a great weekend.
Hahaha yes hopefully don't have to make that video 😂
Ahhh Tyler Thompson was the motivation! Look out Tyler!
i would love to see a video from you guys explaining how to adjust the bars to suit your lift. great video, keep it up.
Great work their guys keep up the good work.
Regards William.
Mount Gambier SA.
Looks good guys, Make sure you check your driveshafts are not at max extension - May need spacers. Also see how you go when you add they weight back in and the RTT - If it feels too boaty - rampt customs also makes a rear panhard riser. Made a huge difference in my 105.
Awesome stuff guys! Looking forward to hearing about how the vehicle now performs both on and off road.
Top work lads, dream build and there's more to come, looking forward to the next few episodes!!
good job boys. mate when u said the mount was cracked .it was broken LOL.any way its fixed now. Liam has become quite the welder. he is kinda handy to have around 🤣interesting to see what the next one is going to be. meanwhile Paddy ,you need to get you a step adder for getting in,great job👍
Looking awesome boys! You know i love a flexy boy haha keep it up!
Looks mint, great job boys, I’d love to be able to weld, such a handy asset to have, looking forward to what’s next, can’t definitely hear the excitement in Pat,s voice ❤
Thanks Louis!!
Another great video, I like the technical details and the fact that it’s DIY - aka in the shed 👍🏽
Looks like Liam did a good welding job, and the flex looks really good too. Please don’t go the way of other TH-camr’s with big lifts, big ego’s and 35’s, there’s plenty of those channels getting around.
Great episode fellas. Gotta say, I’ve had those fulcrum big bore shocks on my coil cab patrol, doin prolly 80% dirt travel (I live in far far nth qld), for the last 2 n a half years 40000kms. Even fully loaded with wet season supplies on the PDR, they barely get warm. At $170 a corner, I reckon they’re great value for money.👍🍻🎯🇦🇺
Edit: For cleaning up diffs n bullbars, I’ve been following behind a grinder/wire wheel, I’ve been using a 4000psi water blaster with a sand pick up attached. I only use beach sand, and it works a treat for internal corners etc.👍
Thanks for the info Andrew!! Yeah great value for money for sure!! And thanks for the tips!
Great work lads. The Fulcrum shocks are a bargain. I'll certainly keep those in mind should I need some in my next rig. Cheers
3 inch lift on these trucks just looks right. Mine is also at around the same height. Only difference is I have a pooor mans lift in the front (50mm spacers) 😅. My car is almost exclusively a tourer so no need for too much extra flex. She does look good though. 😁
Next step is to flip the radius arms on custom brackets to correct castor and get rid of the correction bushes and at the ssme time push the diff forward to compensate for the lift. 👍🏻 Great video guys! 💯
That is one tough looking 80, love it
That is looking VERY capable!
Awesome job lads I like it when you guys do videos like this 👍🏽
Awesome work gents. 👍
Thanks HammerRocks!
Where did you go to get the welding engineered ? All welding needs it in vic .
Need to use rubber bushes, poly can cause cracking mount because they don’t articulate as much.
hi guys from Sakhalin Island, remove the rubber with an eccentric, because of this, the bridge mount broke, you have a lot of good tuning for the land 80, it's better to put levers with a modified geometry!
yesssss was missing the sunday upload last week! Cheers boys
Sorry had so much going on in the background! But got heaps coming !
@ no need for apologies, super keen for what’s to come 🤙
Loving the 80 rebuild
Bloody love it
Sundays now cool again
Excellent. Put the cruiser against a stock 80. Will be awesome seeing the difference from stock to yours.
Think it'll make an excellent video
Very keen for this one boys!
Great video again guys awesome job 👍
What are you doing with the patrol when you finish the 80 😃 let me know guys
Looks good. Were the original brakelines long enough for a 3" lift?
The poly bushes caused the mount to crack and break.
Not the castor correction but the bush itself.
Poly doesn't handle shock loads and bumps like rubber will.
Everyone picked it, dunno if Pat listened.
With a 3" lift best keep away from Bright & Mansfield or you'll end up with a pretty yellow windscreen sticker from VicPol
(Unless you get it engineered)
Great build & content - Keep up the good work.
Not sure if he's still there, but there use to be an older cop in Mansfield, that block was an absolute prick.
i'd like to see youtubers engineer their stuff as the norm as an example to other people tbh
@@webmonkey44
In Victoria, the regulations surrounding vehicle suspension modifications within VSB-14 is clear that any change to the suspension height from OEM specification + or - of 50mm [2 inch] or more requires the vehicle top be assessed by a VASS signatory. Where vehicle ride height is raised by more than 50mm the vehicle is required to undergo a lane-change maneuver test.
Similar requirements also applies to rim/tyre combinations with the VASS outlining OEM tyre size multiplied by 1.3 cannot be exceed, but that is a bit difficult to define.
Vic Pol are schooled in this and its not unusual for a convoy of 4WD's deep in the bush are pulled over by VicPol (typically Solo's on trail bikes) and are all defected.
First hand i have sat at the BP in Mansfield having a few dodgy dim-sims from the bain-marie watching Vic Pol pull over multiple 4WD's & defect them.
@@cyclemoto8744
It wasn't the local cop, twas the highway Patrol guys on solo's.
@@darley04 Have never seen solos out there. The guy I'm talking about was car based and was well known for hating 4wd and bikes.
Well done, that looks mint!
What temperature do you reckon not to exceeed when welding the diff 🤔, didnt even think about the diff warping with the heat from the welder ... great info guys , keep up the good work 👏
Try a rear pan-hard lift or drop bracket, also see if you can move the front axel an inch foward
Nice work boys have one question tho.Are you going to rust proof the inside of the chassis rail where we have been welding with lanolin a
Or simpler product
Do you think limit straps would be a good idea for any potential rock crawling, that way you're not hanging the entire weight of the axle and wheels off the shock body?
Good work guys nice video
Glad you got that seat belt on Liam. Had me worried
Great ep boys!
What's the part number for the arms your using?
Cheers
35" tyres, Prado rear fuel tank & long range main fuel tank. Although it looks like you have a long range rear tank
15:15 jesus how much weight is that poor ute carrying?
Cool ep and work on the 4wd guys.
It's not exactly the caster correction that is the issue with those bushes. it's because they're POLY. Next to no flex in the bush and the style of the 80 series bushes up the back also means the arms cant tilt side to side.
Soooo all that twisting force goes through those steel mounts. What happens when you bend metal back and forth over and over?
I like the 33’s with the new lift
Pneumatic beadlocks would be an awesome upgrade to this car now
Love to see Australian made products
That looks so much better, almost like it's a 2 inch difference
1:12 took me a second to figure out the method you were using to compress the shocks…🤔😂
Nice job on the welding
Looking good boys,👌
Where can I purchase the fulcrum 3 inch lift. I’ve trouble finding it on the website, also wondering if you can buy a kit. Want too make my 80 look mint
Brilliant skills.
Nice doing a great job are u going to get the 80 engineered
Great video.Personally I’d have kept it at 2” and avoided Tyler but really good content watching the build.
"hairline crack" is bigger than any hair I've seen 😂 Cool video
Here’s a tip for you, don’t try and keep up with Tyler he just breaks something on his or someone with him on every trip! Just do what you’ve been doing and have fun and enjoy those great rigs you have👍
You need a step to get into it now!! :P
Mint welds man 👍🏼
10.55 why leave open steel. To air and put new bracks on top and weld. Will cach dust rain and rust behind the new brakets on the chase. ? Mick the gong.
Hit Tough Dog up on there 12stage Adjustable steering stabiliser?
Do H/D Steering Damper cause tie Rod ends to take more ABUSE?
Beautiful beast is getting all the love,
Prelims super weird question but what shorts (pants) are you wearing they look durable asf!!!
hello where did you buy the bridge reinforcements?
Looks mint now
Excellent Video Lads🙌
What gear do you guys use to film?
How come you didn’t split the cab from the chassis and paint it all up like you guys did with Liam’s?
This is clickbait! "Landcruiser's BIGGEST problem' - all that work and it's still not fixed - the Landcruiser PARKING BRAKE. 😀I have owned an 80 series Landcruiser (turbo diesel) for 17 years and had the parking brake adjusted by myself and by different mechanics - it still doesn't work. I have to leave it in gear to stop it rolling. Great video, very educational, very interesting. Kincrome make good tools, I regularly drop in at their factory outlet in Scoresby, Melbourne for good deals.
Patrick you need to cut and polish that thing. Or respray. Getting this much good kit it deserves to look pretty too lol
how do you go with the Victorian police and a 3 inch lift?
He needs to find out, to answer your question ... 😂
Check your steering box mounting bolts. If I’m right they should be 10.9 grade metric and not 8.8 metric that I see in the video look to be😂 Great job guys
With that you may/should look at some hardened washers as well❤
So how did you turn it into a GU?
Should've braced the diff while it was out
Keen keen keen 🤙🏾🤙🏾
Why do you torque everything up after it’s sitting on the ground V up on the hoist ? I’m not a mechanic, but wouldn’t having weight on the suspension component change the applied torque to the bolt ? Thanks in advance to those in the know that know the answer 👍🏻
Should of done flipped arms whilst you had weld mounts anyway
Hey lads got myself a 80series 1fzfe exactly the same color but when I got it I was told it has a gu front end under it how do I tell the difference has all adjustable arms etc
20:38 the grease on your top lip😅...looked like hitler🤣 gave me a laugh mate😎👍
be surprised that diff didnt need to be straightened after putting that heat into it, youll either catch it on the wheel alignment, scrub tyres out or have inner axle seal leaking. Also your paper P2 aint doing nothing for you shooting the 2k full iso paint. If you can smell the fumes your not being protected.
You need a pumpkin protector on that front diff, bolt on or weld on.
I too was young once, my ROLL OVER changed my idea!
TRAILER QUEEN enjoy your Yellow Sticker
It happens a lot when the seat bar bushes are worn out fix 1 a week at work
You need to loosen and re-torque all the suspension bolts when you are at full operating load. Tightening them with the vehicle empty is not correct.
its frankly amazing how the land cruiser just wants to tear itself apart from front to back. never been an issue with the nissan trucks....just a thought....lol
This is all good but I want to see more of the old Patrol.
Love ya work boys👍
Cheers mate!