In relation to your GVM another thing to consider is the load percentage between the front and rear axle. In other words your car may be inside the GVM but the weight may be biased to either axle. Also as you have fitted new suspension, you may already have increased your GVM. The suspension manufacture should be able to confirm whether this is so. If it is then all you will need is an authorise engineer to certify this. Probable cost around $200. That's what mine cost, however I'm in Queensland. Another important consideration is insurance. If you are unlucky enough to have an incident requiring a claim, the insurance company will most likely weight you rig.
With a gvm increase keep in mind its only valid in the state you have it done in .. the only amendment to that is on gvm increases done to brand new vehicles before they are registered then I believe the increase is Aus wide
@@tom6549 You are right . Most won't advertise their suspension upgrades as an GVM increase which is why you need it to be certified by an approved engineer. Pedder's did so for my vehicle however I already had another brand fitted. The engineer took note of the brand and was familiar with them and was happy to recertify my GVM. I had previously spoken with the suspension supplier who advised me I could increase my GVM by 10%.
@@Resignandreset Correct unless you spend major money. In my case it was more about the weight over the rear axle with my van attached that was an issue. Which is why I mentioned the axle bias . That 10% increase , coupled with some weight reduction and relocation of heavy items got me comfortably over the line.
GVM upgrades are a joke, especially on dual cab utes. The majority of the time the chassis is the weak point and a GVM upgrade does nothing to address this. If you think ARB, pedders etc have done more engineering than the Toyota engineers regarding acceptable loading of the vehicle, I don't know what to tell you.
Probably worth replacing the tips with little filters that allow airflow in both directions, the factory caps are generally one way valves, due to being one way when you enter the water and the diff cools downs it can actually draw water in through the axle seals as they are basically a one way valve, they stop the oil coming out due to the spring that keeps the seal tight but its easy for something else to go back in through it and have a very basic outer dust seal so with some vacuum, water will get in👍
I did exactly this. I put the original toyota one way check valve onto the extended breather lines for quite a few years. No issues. I then swapped them for filters so the could let air in and out, just like you explain here, also thinking it would be better. However.... When I removed the Toyota check valve to do the job, I noticed it did suck in some air, so it was perfectly air tight and sealed and had some vacuum on the diff. Literally within a couple of months, my axle seals started to leak oil. So I actually think the one way Toyota check valve keeps it all air tight and keeps a small vacuum on your axle seals which also helps to retain your diff oil. I put my Toyota diff caps back on and no more oil leaks. Just my experience. I'd be interested to know if Mr Aussie Arvos changes these out and see if you develop a oil weep like I did. Because I certainly did, and absolutely no issues using the Toyota caps.
@@Croozzen in that case I would be leaning towards worn seals I think as it shouldn't have to rely on a slight vacuum to keep the oil in as seals are supposed to do that without assistance.
Before letting oil out of diff/ gearbox and stuff open the filler bolt before draining the oil, if you take oil out and can’t fill it back up so you can’t do anything wit the car if it doesn’t have oil in…
I actually just went “Operation Lightweight” a few weeks ago. Sold my steel drawers, got rid of my heavy storage containers, took off my scrub bars, changed from 14kg stretcher swag tent to 4kg pop up tent. I now use seat organisers on my cargo barrier and on my fridge cage to store all of my gear. Got rid of tow bar and factory bumper and replaced with rear wheel carrier bar that weighed less. I took out the rear seats and keep the bulky items under my new false floor . I changed from camp chair to hike chair. Changed from Teflon crockery to plastic. Kept aluminium roof bars on instead of going to steel roof rack. Basically anywhere I could avoid weight I would. Now considering going from steel rims to alloy.
Not as much difference with steel and alloy rims as I would've imagined when I swapped mine. A bigger difference is the size of the tire and even the brand (BFG KO2s are great, but are very heavy tires compared to other AT). Don't go too wide as well. If you can stick as close to original size tires as you can you'll have much better handling car.
Good on you I live aboard boat it is easy for weight to add up over time I'm always looking for lighter option s a lot of options for 4 be have no concern for weight Engel fridge slide good example
Hey Pat. Just watched Australia 4x4 adventure’s , Drifta carry on. He mentioned re fitting falcon seats and base being not engineered etc. (insurance). Might pay to check legality with this as well as weight of 80 and let us all know. Thanks
Another tip for breather placement I have seen run the rear up into the cabin of the wagon then you run into the side cavity on rear quarter where you have zero chance of mud and dirt. The front as per where you have it just under bonnet on firewall👍
I rarely do deep water crossings, but I have fitted a breather kit for my 80 Series. It's a cheap damage prevention insurance for your diffs and transfer case. I have the SaaS kit and it was an easy DIY fit. Tip: The hose is usually stiff (& coiled). But if you leave it under the sun for a while, it softens up, making it easier to run through under the car and bonnet.
Two years ago I got a quote to have a GVM upgrade on my 80 Series. I was quoted over $6K (can't remember if that included the cost of the suspension kit or it was extra). So I never had it done. Since I mainly overland, I just didn't fit a bullbar, nor rock sliders etc. But I would like to fit a rear tyre carrier, so I might have to get a steel rear bar. Unless I go with the Kaymar tyre carrier that mounts on the existing rear bar of the 80 Series. I will also be replacing my steel platform rack for an alumium to reduce more weight. But I haven't weight it fully loaded. I need to get it done. Just need to find a public weigh bridge nearby.
My guess was 3.2 ton. But in my calculations I included a passenger and full tank of fuel. My 200 series weighs 3.2 ton with 80kg passenger ,138ltr diesel. I'm left with 150kg for full fridge, fishing gear and swags. I'm right on the border and got a 30kg spare wheel carrier coming. No rear bar for me. It's alot easier having no passenger and all there gear to add to the weight. It's a live and learn sort of thing. You can always go lithium batteries and say drifter draws and other lighter accessories to get it legal. But we all know it comes at a cost and that's part of the reason these accessories are alot more expensive. Gvm upgrade is the best way in the end when adding steel around the car, fridges and draws ect
Hey Mate. I just watched this video and have some info on a GVM upgrade. So we are planning a big trip shortly in our MQ Triton with our Caravan. I weighed my setup and was 68kg over GVM of 2900kg. I found a local business in Maryborough QLD called Transmod. He assessed my current suspension and brake setup and was able to give me a other 200kg of payload. This takes me to the maximum axle rating of 3100kg as Mitsubishi has rated. I did not have to go to a brand name company and spend 3k+ with them to get an upgrade. I have King front heavy duty front springs, EFS 350kg constant load leaves and Fulcrum shocks. The GVM upgrade cost me $800. Also worth noting is I have the Superior chassis plates welded in too.
GVM upgrade, I had my 80 series GVM upgraded, the engineer here in WA said the max he could do was 3350 kg's due to what he considered the rear diff housing could take unmodified (i.e if I wanted I could get a fabricated housing and go from there, I decided due to the cost of said housing I was good with the initial figure of 3350 kg's). All that is required from a vehicle stand point is and agreed suspension set up with the engineer, and an approved modification in principle from the D.O.T and that's about it, the engineers report from memory was about $250, but the money bit came in when a brake test is required. Here in WA a brake test is required to be done for a GVM upgrade, which is to be done on private property with all the relevant people there to record all the info. I don't know much about that bit as I wasn't allowed to be there, but that was well north of $2K for me. A lot of money, yes, but, if something was to go wrong, like an accident and you're found to be over GVM, your insurance company can walk away leaving you with a heafty bill which I suspect will be well in excess of $2k. I know it sounds a lot for 400 kg's or so, but if you were asked to take 400 kg's out of you car, I think you'd have a hell of a pile of stuff on the floor, and yes you still have max weight's on each axle (diff housing). As for insurance, my 80 is fully insured with all the mods including the GVM upgrade and an agreed valuation (in the 30's) and it cost me just over $1k a year.
Yep, you need to sort your GVM for lots of reasons. I had my 105 GVM upgraded 11 months ago from 3160 to 3700 at Morwell Springs, Ray is absolute champion to deal with. Koni shocks, king springs, engineered locally, $3300( $300 approx. turbo engineering )note as the 1HZ had safari aftermarket turbo, it had to be engineered at the same time, Engineer cannot over look( no issue for your factory turbo) really happy with set up / outcome. existing wheels will need to be rated, etc. on memory axle ratings and wheel ratings are on mod plate, thus you must not change wheels outside that spec. really enjoy your channel.
I have a 105 as well and am looking at requirements for gvm upgrade. What exactly did you need to do, did he give you a list of criteria to meet and then checked them off. Really interested in this, I’m currently running 400-600 progressive springs on the rear with airbag man airbags. 2” lift old man emu suspension and stock gxl steel rims. I also have an aftermarket turbo from Berrima diesel that’ll need blue plate (Qld) . Was the 3700 the max you could go or was that what you wanted.
Do it properly. Fill your fuel and water. Fill it trip ready. 40kg over gvm is not correct. It will be significantly higher with fuel and a passenger, water and food etc. Weigh it fully trip ready. Noting you're are driving an unroadworthy vehicle, and with no insurance bc the car is over gvm and you've publicly broadcast this. Time to put the fat red rig on a diet
My factory Toyota 105 allow rims were 11kg and replaced with steelies at 13kg…. So about 8kg total difference considering the Toyota spare is already steel.
Weight my 80 when I first got it bog stock (had bull bar and fridge in the back) and it weighed 2.3tonne so Toyota never really left you with much room to play with
My LPG tank is very heavy, even when empty. I sold all the pretend exterior bars, they were heavy and only for show. My exterior spare tyre holder is going to weigh a bit when I have finished it. Interesting how it all adds up. I guess that wood used for internal storage adds up quickly!
When I did a GVM upgrade on my old 80 about 4 years ago there were no kits available at that time and still not likely to be, however you can get it done via an independent VASS certified engineer it just has to pass a lane change test at full weight and a brake test, I did mine through a bloke in Geelong and it cost me $1515 for the testing and mod plate but I did replace all the bushes, got higher rated springs and fitted and later model brakes fitted which are larger diameter from 94 or 95 new rotors and pads so in the end it cost more like $5K But it passed
regularly hit up that exact weighbridge with my D22, generally sits empty at 2650, minus recovery gear and tools that live in it plus fridge. GVM is 2860. However I have come back from a trip high country and weighed it at 3900, that was an eye opener.
@@HardstylePete well idk, I had to ask the mrs lmao.. thought she'd throw the whole pantry in just about so since then have heavily cut down on things being taken
Here's a gvm tip. Change from steel to factory alloy rims. Just as strong as steel rims. 10-12kg per rim in extra weight for steel. 50-65kg of weight can be saved just from going to alloy from steel rims.
I have done this and had steel rims and alloy rims. Over the years I have bent two factory toyota alloy wheels but I've never bent a steel one. Running a bfg 305 70 16's there was exactly 6kg difference between the alloy and steel rims. So running alloy rims across 6 wheels saved a total of only 36kgs. I have since put imitation beadlocks on, which are lighter than the factory toyota steel rims and about 2kgs different to the alloy wheels.
A video of where you can save weight with minimal compromise would be an interesting talk. Do skinny tyres save decent weight? Where can you swap steel and timber for lighter materials.
With your roof top tent setup, consider getting rid of the heavy steel roof rack and getting some basic bar roof racks (or an alloy roof rack at least). Attach your awnings to the RTT. You'll save a good 60kg...
My 80 has a GVM upgrade done by Morwell Springs, Not a cheap thing!!. to get the upgrade I needed to replace shockers and springs, upgrade brakes and undergo lots of brake and dive testing. ended up spending around four grand but have a GVM of 3600kg and a fully legal vehicle with 33's and a 2" lift. Weighs in at around 3200 with roof rack and rooftop tent, front and rear steel bars and a winch.
😂 I had to laugh at 18:43 when ya said ya don’t have any bar work 😂😂 rear bar sliders Bullbar Roof cage😂😂 how much more bar work is there 😂 Keep em coming son👍🏻👍🏻
Try searching for just heater taps. If you know the diameter hose and the direction. Try a company called ACE BUS spares. They are in Sydney and are really helpful. We use these heater taps on buses all the time.
I don't think getting a defect is likely with being over GVM, the main concern I'm aware of is if your way over GVM & have a accident your insurance company has a technical loophole to not payout as it would fall under "improper use of the car" which includes overloaded in most pds documents
Did you do the gearbox & xfer case breathers as well? I could only manage the diffs because it's incredibly hard to access the breather hose that connects to the gearbox & xfer case
Hey Patrick, in terms of GVM upgrades, there is this company DMW Up in QLD that do wagon chops, I know they do GVM upgrades for their custom dual cab Ute's but idk if they do it for wagons, that is the only shop I know that does those upgrades
Great ep, It cost me $770 for 296kg GVM upgrade in QLD, for my 1990 1HZ 80 series, thats using my heavy duty suspension i had in it , thats with a Vehicle engineer he did swerve and braking tests and fitted blue plate
@@AussieArvos the rules have changed in the past few years, i think that you will have to new suspension if it's older than 1 year old even if you had already had a suspension setup installed to get a chance at getting it done and certified, that's why it has become expensive .
I weighed my 100 series last weekend on the way back from a trip with about the same amount of fuel as yours. 3440KG or 180KG over GVM. Similar mods to you but no rear bar, no sliders and no bash plates. To say I was shocked is an understatement. Might just try a different weigh bridge to be sure.
@E Bandit yeah I had my girlfriend and my 40KG dog with me. 270 awning, oztent on the roof rack, slab of beer in the fridge. There's definitely scope to drop weight but I also want to get sliders, bash plates and maybe one day a rear bar and long range tank. 🤔
Smithies in Pakenham do a gvm upgrade but yes they will want to put their own engineered springs in. I’m sure you will be fine all Toyota’s are are plated for low gvm basically 5 people and a full tank of fuel and you have hit your gvm.
Took out back seats and added a very lightweight pine and plywood platform to sleep on. Can put all I need under the platform or in the tinny. Car is now less than stock loaded
I can remember the first Minis..to save weight and cost, string as a door handle, push button starter and heater control under the bonnet...on in Winter and off for Summer..very similar to what you have ATM..lol
😂 I was over my GVM with my Patrol like most people who fit out their Rigs for Touring ... I ended up getting a GVM Upgrade for my Series 4 Patrol ... All Engineered with a Compliance Plate ... The Patrol's GVM was 3060 kg and it is Now 3300 kg ... Happy Days 👍
Those oem hose clamps are actually better for things like that, because they apply even pressure, and don’t loosen even after a lot of heat cycles and road life. My two cents
Change your winch rope to plasma/dyneema type, thats 20kg of steel rope on your winch! Also look at things like changing the headlights to those fancy angel eye ones, those are entirely plastic and weigh a fair bit less than the oem glass dual headlights. If your roof rack is steel, sell it and get an aluminium one, if you have a rooftop tent, dont bolt it on to the roof basket, buy some separate individual racks for the tent that you can use only when using the rooftop tent. The drawer system, depending if its a solid timber one or not, theres definitely a good chunk of weight there, get a hole saw, peel some carpet back and drill lightening holes then reapply the carpet. Cooking utensils, go to plastic or ceramic instead of steel, knives usually weigh the most and ceramic knives are light and sharp! Change brand of tyres! Something i found working in a Goodyear store for 4 years, some brands are insanley heavy, Toyo being one of the heaviest, and i mean 10kg per tyre more than others. If you have a long range fuel tank that is steel, those tanks alone are around 40kg, Change to one of the new plastic ones, or stay with standard and carry jerry cans. The falcon xr seats you are using are electric, if you arent using the electric movements of them, remove them. Change from steel wheels to alloys, look nicer and much lighter! Change your starter battery from an n70zz size to a 55d size. Similar crank amps but only 2/3 the size. Since you dont use a whole lot of capacity on a starter battery that will be fine. Thats actually the size 200 series cruisers use factory for the same reason. Change the rear sliding wimdows from glass to gullwing, they are about 1/3 of the weight of all that glass. I could go on, there are sooooo many things you can do to reduce weight. Another thing you can do though is a gvm upgrade, a certified modification, just make sure you get it certified for all states you plan to travel through, as some modifications are legal in one state and void in another.
The top of those OEM breathers is a spring and seal type of breather and only to let it breathe out and then they close when it's cold which means it can be sucking air in from any gap in the driveline they can. Best to just put a $3 fuel filter on the end so it can breathe in and out. GVM and GCM are so important when it comes to insurance and claims, always need to keep them under.
Every wonder why the 4wd24/7 guy are all in their own cars... GVM...lol.. Rough cost is around $600 and you just need to update the springs to carry a heavier load... Would love to find someone cheaper to do it in QLD...
I extended my rear diff piping *into* my rear Quarter panel up to the rear side window. The shorter the better with the same re-enforced white pipe you used.
Interesting vid👍your base weight of 80 series plus GVM is not a lot, also if you were towing max weight with driver could send over GVM. You should see grey nomads with dangerous overload caravans, they get pull over but in Victoria on Easter n ANZAC holidays the Victorian Police were pulling over 4x4 vehicles. Stay safe out there👍
sucks you're over. but 3 ton isnt that bad, you did pretty good! I've seen a modded, empty, single cab, flat tray patrol on that bridge clock in at 2500kg! full kit i'm also over, and way worse unfortunatly......at 1650kg vs 1270 GVM hahahaha. regarding your diff breather. I'd recomend looking into regular ol' Nitrile fuel hose. PVC isn't good for hydrocarbon contact over a long time, especially in hot conditions. The Nylon tube is fantastic though, I use it the whole way through and vents into the snorkel.
I would just like to mention you may want to look at getting a shunt for the lithium set up . Looking the voltage is pretty much pointless it will say 13.2+ volts all the way down until it dies and you will never know if your on 30 or 80 % by reading voltage
My 2011 pk rangers gem is 3019kg and when I went camping i was not sure what it waighed so I cheaked with a full tank and a passanger it came to 3060kg so I was 41kg over and since then I've added more things to the car
I had a discussion with a peddles bloke about gvm upgrade to my dual cab Ute. I’ve got the heaviest springs and shocks in it but that didn’t matter. If they are engineering it they had to supply and install everything and every nut and bolt used was paint marked. Any variation from that meant it was illegal. Also I noticed the XR seats…not engineered then you’re illegal anyway. Love your work. Keep up the good content.
Yeah, I was going to ask what your vehicle weighed as I have just had to go through a big strip out process myself. I had steel drawers, long range tank, rtt, cargo barriers etc. Mine was 3230 all up. Way more than yours!
You could get under the back of the vehicle to remove the chain & winch mechanism for the now unused original spare wheel setup. That would help weight reduction a bit.
This was the reason I sold my troopy ,buy the time you put all the good stuff on your cars overloaded, my 4x4 canter truck seats 7 all the room I need for all the toys ,and cheaper to run than my cruiser , and fully loaded with a 30 foot boat on I'm still under
The rear just goes into the cross member. Also worth relocating the fuel tank breather as it sits right behind the rear wheel and is the mean reason for getting water in your tank.
@@Sethjxl this! i cut a hole in the little grommet next to the body mount hole in the rear of my wagon and ran the breather up into the cab just below the bottom of the back windows
Ive stuck with alloy wheels, alloy roof rack, a normal 2.5 x 2.5 awning with an extension, plastic tubs for storage, tents and swags for camping and 4wdriving. Pretty basic set up for the outdoors. I have a bullbar with winch, 33" tyres, 2 inch lift and bash plates. I've never weighed the GU Patrol fully loaded and was just wondering, would I be over with a basic set up seeing that the vehicle manufacturers don't give you much room for payload.
You went for a good drive upto Yarragon. I used to drive back and forth daily. It’s always good to check your car GVM. A lot of small car drivers, overload IMMENSELY!
With the heater valve if you had the broken pipe still you could have jerry rigged it by using a soldering iron to fuse it back together. Then just test to see if it holds water.
The bushes in your rear trailing arms look fucked bro I would get them sorted so your diff doesn't shatter and cause you some expensive damage. Just saying I had this same issue love the video to
Its a bit crap how little wagons can have before they hit GVM. With me, My Wife & Son in the car we are currently left with about 80kg before packing most of our camping gear. In saying that like you I have drawers, fridge etc etc so some clothes and tent should keep us just under. Still pushing it. Thats in a 2002 NM Pajero.
Change the wheels out for a larger size alloy wheel so the tyres side walls are smaller (larger tyres weigh a lot), alloy roof rack, replace wood draws for alloy and so on.
Weighbridges aren't 100% exact. My suggestion is to call up a few suspension shops and see if they have a set of scales you can use for it to be precise. Also useful to grab a printout of that and keep in your glovebox :) Good vid as always - been thinking about a travel buddy a bit too for mine. Not sure how long the oven would take to cook up some vege? Also - you look into that voltage mod for the travel buddy? Increases performance like crazy.
You're probably about another 200kg or more over gvm when fully loaded. I've been in the exact situation with my 100series. You got three options.. Ignore it and take the risk. Spend the dollars on a gvm upgrade. Or rethink your build and strip the weight down. The best option is to strip the weight down, however, this can be just as expensive as doing a gvm upgrade. But, the benefits of reducing hundreds of kgs of your rig will transform it into a much more capable and better handling 4wd. Not to mentioned, more reliable and more efficient on fuel. You gotta believe!
nice video ! good work ! how annoying all for a little part , what's gvm ? I upgraded all my suspension lol .. hopefully no vehicle inspection stations
Hi. I posted what I hoped was a useful link to help with the heater part, but my comment has disappeared. I hope you got the link and it's helpful. Keep up the good work.
Hey mate, when I did my breathers I found that the factory breather caps only allow air to flow in one direction which can be problematic for obvious reasons. Love your work mate!
Been over GVM is a real concern its possible to have your Insurance cover canceled or worse get you a seat in the coroner's court, some years ago a young acquaintance of mine lost a wheel on a boat trailer first day of a big trip unfortunately it hit a car travelling in the opposite direction killing the driver. During the inquest it came out that axle was overloaded due to the boat been modified (bigger motor Larger fuel tanks & auxiliary motor ) and the boat was full of food, fuel and camping gear. The tow vehicle and the combination of modifications and the load was also deemed it overloaded and unroadworthy due in part to the ball weight from the trailer a tragic outcome for everyone
@@Tasfarmer Cost his family a small fortune to keep him out of jail but living with the guilt of the death was a ongoing punishment that effected him immensely
I tested mine when on the hwy to a recent high country trip, 50kg under in a mk patrol I was shocked I was that close with 1 person and while loaded not 'that' loaded
A lot of weight bridges aren’t accurate my concrete truck goes on weight bridges all the time and it gets different weights when empty so drop 40 kilos and get a weight receipt and keep it safe if you have any problems and don’t get to concerned all most all pumped up 4X4 ‘s are over weight cheers
G'day Pat, Awesome video as usuall, one question though, I noticed when you were installing your remote entry your Atoto S8 wasnt in there? I was looking at the same set up, did you have issues with it? Cheers mate, all you guys are awesome
Hey Pat, You're unlikely to get stung by the coppers in Vic unless you're in a heavy vehicle (14t+) for being over GVM. However, if you're ever in a smash and someone gets hurt, it could be your undoing. If being overweight contributes to the collision and someone is seriously injured, it could result in gaol time. That being said, 40kgs overweight probably isn't going to do it.
GVM affects your braking performance, steering, handling, roll and other characteristics. Not only does weight affect it so does stupid things like lift kits and bar work.
don't feel bad about 40kg mate mines 200kg over GVM lol I really need to look into cutting some of the weight down or get are GVM upgrade but like you said they are very expensive.
I pretty sure I commented on Instagram that I believed your weight was 2950. I have taken my 80 over the scales and it came in at 2660. No rear bar, factory alloy bar,No wheel carrier and half the set up in the rear. I had half a tank of fuel plus myself at 2660. I have 5 other people to go in also so doesn’t leave any room to play with
with the turbo and other engine connections spring clamps are used because they expand with the hose when it's hot and don't cut in
In relation to your GVM another thing to consider is the load percentage between the front and rear axle. In other words your car may be inside the GVM but the weight may be biased to either axle. Also as you have fitted new suspension, you may already have increased your GVM. The suspension manufacture should be able to confirm whether this is so. If it is then all you will need is an authorise engineer to certify this. Probable cost around $200. That's what mine cost, however I'm in Queensland. Another important consideration is insurance. If you are unlucky enough to have an incident requiring a claim, the insurance company will most likely weight you rig.
With a gvm increase keep in mind its only valid in the state you have it done in .. the only amendment to that is on gvm increases done to brand new vehicles before they are registered then I believe the increase is Aus wide
You can only go 10% anyway, which won’t be even 300kg .
@@tom6549 You are right . Most won't advertise their suspension upgrades as an GVM increase which is why you need it to be certified by an approved engineer. Pedder's did so for my vehicle however I already had another brand fitted. The engineer took note of the brand and was familiar with them and was happy to recertify my GVM. I had previously spoken with the suspension supplier who advised me I could increase my GVM by 10%.
@@Resignandreset Correct unless you spend major money. In my case it was more about the weight over the rear axle with my van attached that was an issue. Which is why I mentioned the axle bias . That 10% increase , coupled with some weight reduction and relocation of heavy items got me comfortably over the line.
GVM upgrades are a joke, especially on dual cab utes. The majority of the time the chassis is the weak point and a GVM upgrade does nothing to address this.
If you think ARB, pedders etc have done more engineering than the Toyota engineers regarding acceptable loading of the vehicle, I don't know what to tell you.
Probably worth replacing the tips with little filters that allow airflow in both directions, the factory caps are generally one way valves, due to being one way when you enter the water and the diff cools downs it can actually draw water in through the axle seals as they are basically a one way valve, they stop the oil coming out due to the spring that keeps the seal tight but its easy for something else to go back in through it and have a very basic outer dust seal so with some vacuum, water will get in👍
Agreed
Thanks Daniel, didn't realise this! I'll get onto it ! Thanks !
I did exactly this. I put the original toyota one way check valve onto the extended breather lines for quite a few years. No issues. I then swapped them for filters so the could let air in and out, just like you explain here, also thinking it would be better. However.... When I removed the Toyota check valve to do the job, I noticed it did suck in some air, so it was perfectly air tight and sealed and had some vacuum on the diff. Literally within a couple of months, my axle seals started to leak oil. So I actually think the one way Toyota check valve keeps it all air tight and keeps a small vacuum on your axle seals which also helps to retain your diff oil. I put my Toyota diff caps back on and no more oil leaks. Just my experience. I'd be interested to know if Mr Aussie Arvos changes these out and see if you develop a oil weep like I did. Because I certainly did, and absolutely no issues using the Toyota caps.
@@Croozzen in that case I would be leaning towards worn seals I think as it shouldn't have to rely on a slight vacuum to keep the oil in as seals are supposed to do that without assistance.
@@Croozzen I'd expect Toyota to know what they are doing, so I'm inclined to say your experience applies to all.
Before letting oil out of diff/ gearbox and stuff open the filler bolt before draining the oil, if you take oil out and can’t fill it back up so you can’t do anything wit the car if it doesn’t have oil in…
I actually just went “Operation Lightweight” a few weeks ago. Sold my steel drawers, got rid of my heavy storage containers, took off my scrub bars, changed from 14kg stretcher swag tent to 4kg pop up tent. I now use seat organisers on my cargo barrier and on my fridge cage to store all of my gear. Got rid of tow bar and factory bumper and replaced with rear wheel carrier bar that weighed less. I took out the rear seats and keep the bulky items under my new false floor . I changed from camp chair to hike chair. Changed from Teflon crockery to plastic. Kept aluminium roof bars on instead of going to steel roof rack. Basically anywhere I could avoid weight I would. Now considering going from steel rims to alloy.
Not as much difference with steel and alloy rims as I would've imagined when I swapped mine. A bigger difference is the size of the tire and even the brand (BFG KO2s are great, but are very heavy tires compared to other AT). Don't go too wide as well. If you can stick as close to original size tires as you can you'll have much better handling car.
good work! The steel vs alloy is at most like 20lbs across 4 wheels, its really not that much of a difference
@@kutuzovm3215 With everything else hes changed it all ads up in the end
I have also decided a year ago to not omly go lightweight, but lower the centre of gravity too
Good on you I live aboard boat it is easy for weight to add up over time I'm always looking for lighter option s a lot of options for 4 be have no concern for weight Engel fridge slide good example
Hey Pat. Just watched Australia 4x4 adventure’s , Drifta carry on. He mentioned re fitting falcon seats and base being not engineered etc. (insurance). Might pay to check legality with this as well as weight of 80 and let us all know. Thanks
Another tip for breather placement I have seen run the rear up into the cabin of the wagon then you run into the side cavity on rear quarter where you have zero chance of mud and dirt.
The front as per where you have it just under bonnet on firewall👍
Been subject to this. Diff oils stink occasionally breathing in the cab
yea was just about to say this. as the diffs warm up, you will smell the oil. its not pretty.
I rarely do deep water crossings, but I have fitted a breather kit for my 80 Series. It's a cheap damage prevention insurance for your diffs and transfer case. I have the SaaS kit and it was an easy DIY fit. Tip: The hose is usually stiff (& coiled). But if you leave it under the sun for a while, it softens up, making it easier to run through under the car and bonnet.
Two years ago I got a quote to have a GVM upgrade on my 80 Series. I was quoted over $6K (can't remember if that included the cost of the suspension kit or it was extra). So I never had it done. Since I mainly overland, I just didn't fit a bullbar, nor rock sliders etc. But I would like to fit a rear tyre carrier, so I might have to get a steel rear bar. Unless I go with the Kaymar tyre carrier that mounts on the existing rear bar of the 80 Series. I will also be replacing my steel platform rack for an alumium to reduce more weight. But I haven't weight it fully loaded. I need to get it done. Just need to find a public weigh bridge nearby.
My guess was 3.2 ton. But in my calculations I included a passenger and full tank of fuel. My 200 series weighs 3.2 ton with 80kg passenger ,138ltr diesel. I'm left with 150kg for full fridge, fishing gear and swags. I'm right on the border and got a 30kg spare wheel carrier coming. No rear bar for me. It's alot easier having no passenger and all there gear to add to the weight.
It's a live and learn sort of thing. You can always go lithium batteries and say drifter draws and other lighter accessories to get it legal. But we all know it comes at a cost and that's part of the reason these accessories are alot more expensive.
Gvm upgrade is the best way in the end when adding steel around the car, fridges and draws ect
Hey Mate. I just watched this video and have some info on a GVM upgrade. So we are planning a big trip shortly in our MQ Triton with our Caravan. I weighed my setup and was 68kg over GVM of 2900kg. I found a local business in Maryborough QLD called Transmod. He assessed my current suspension and brake setup and was able to give me a other 200kg of payload. This takes me to the maximum axle rating of 3100kg as Mitsubishi has rated. I did not have to go to a brand name company and spend 3k+ with them to get an upgrade. I have King front heavy duty front springs, EFS 350kg constant load leaves and Fulcrum shocks. The GVM upgrade cost me $800. Also worth noting is I have the Superior chassis plates welded in too.
thanks i might look into that for my triton
GVM upgrade, I had my 80 series GVM upgraded, the engineer here in WA said the max he could do was 3350 kg's due to what he considered the rear diff housing could take unmodified (i.e if I wanted I could get a fabricated housing and go from there, I decided due to the cost of said housing I was good with the initial figure of 3350 kg's). All that is required from a vehicle stand point is and agreed suspension set up with the engineer, and an approved modification in principle from the D.O.T and that's about it, the engineers report from memory was about $250, but the money bit came in when a brake test is required. Here in WA a brake test is required to be done for a GVM upgrade, which is to be done on private property with all the relevant people there to record all the info. I don't know much about that bit as I wasn't allowed to be there, but that was well north of $2K for me. A lot of money, yes, but, if something was to go wrong, like an accident and you're found to be over GVM, your insurance company can walk away leaving you with a heafty bill which I suspect will be well in excess of $2k. I know it sounds a lot for 400 kg's or so, but if you were asked to take 400 kg's out of you car, I think you'd have a hell of a pile of stuff on the floor, and yes you still have max weight's on each axle (diff housing). As for insurance, my 80 is fully insured with all the mods including the GVM upgrade and an agreed valuation (in the 30's) and it cost me just over $1k a year.
Hey mate I know this was a while ago! But could I ask where you got this done? I’m very interested! Cheers 💪🏽
Yep, you need to sort your GVM for lots of reasons.
I had my 105 GVM upgraded 11 months ago from 3160 to 3700 at Morwell Springs, Ray is absolute champion to deal with.
Koni shocks, king springs, engineered locally, $3300( $300 approx. turbo engineering )note as the 1HZ had safari aftermarket turbo, it had to be engineered at the same time, Engineer cannot over look( no issue for your factory turbo) really happy with set up / outcome. existing wheels will need to be rated, etc. on memory axle ratings and wheel ratings are on mod plate, thus you must not change wheels outside that spec.
really enjoy your channel.
I have a 105 as well and am looking at requirements for gvm upgrade. What exactly did you need to do, did he give you a list of criteria to meet and then checked them off. Really interested in this, I’m currently running 400-600 progressive springs on the rear with airbag man airbags. 2” lift old man emu suspension and stock gxl steel rims. I also have an aftermarket turbo from Berrima diesel that’ll need blue plate (Qld) . Was the 3700 the max you could go or was that what you wanted.
Hey mate I live local to morwell
May I ask where you got your mods engineered
Do it properly. Fill your fuel and water. Fill it trip ready. 40kg over gvm is not correct. It will be significantly higher with fuel and a passenger, water and food etc. Weigh it fully trip ready. Noting you're are driving an unroadworthy vehicle, and with no insurance bc the car is over gvm and you've publicly broadcast this. Time to put the fat red rig on a diet
running steel rims and winch cable? might be about 40kg right there...
My factory Toyota 105 allow rims were 11kg and replaced with steelies at 13kg…. So about 8kg total difference considering the Toyota spare is already steel.
Maybe Toyota didn't expect anyone to drive deeper than their breather tubing.
Your doing a great mod.
Great hair as always!
Weight my 80 when I first got it bog stock (had bull bar and fridge in the back) and it weighed 2.3tonne so Toyota never really left you with much room to play with
My LPG tank is very heavy, even when empty. I sold all the pretend exterior bars, they were heavy and only for show. My exterior spare tyre holder is going to weigh a bit when I have finished it. Interesting how it all adds up. I guess that wood used for internal storage adds up quickly!
When I did a GVM upgrade on my old 80 about 4 years ago there were no kits available at that time and still not likely to be, however you can get it done via an independent VASS certified engineer it just has to pass a lane change test at full weight and a brake test, I did mine through a bloke in Geelong and it cost me $1515 for the testing and mod plate but I did replace all the bushes, got higher rated springs and fitted and later model brakes fitted which are larger diameter from 94 or 95 new rotors and pads so in the end it cost more like $5K But it passed
Any chance you remember who did it for you? I’m trying to get my 80 done in Victoria but so far no one is interested.
@@jasonandcatherineborazio6393 Loud Pedal Engineering, his name is Alan Henriksen and he’s based in Geelong but testing is done at Lethbridge airport
regularly hit up that exact weighbridge with my D22, generally sits empty at 2650, minus recovery gear and tools that live in it plus fridge. GVM is 2860. However I have come back from a trip high country and weighed it at 3900, that was an eye opener.
What do you pack for those High Country trips? A Honda civic?
@@HardstylePete well idk, I had to ask the mrs lmao.. thought she'd throw the whole pantry in just about so since then have heavily cut down on things being taken
Gvm is a huge thing for most 4wds alot of people dont really know or care, id get it engineerd mate as you already have XR6 seats in it
Here's a gvm tip. Change from steel to factory alloy rims. Just as strong as steel rims. 10-12kg per rim in extra weight for steel. 50-65kg of weight can be saved just from going to alloy from steel rims.
Yeah but the Steelies look better and you can bash them back straight if they get bent
You are dreaming big time if you think you will save 10kg per wheel!
I have done this and had steel rims and alloy rims. Over the years I have bent two factory toyota alloy wheels but I've never bent a steel one. Running a bfg 305 70 16's there was exactly 6kg difference between the alloy and steel rims. So running alloy rims across 6 wheels saved a total of only 36kgs. I have since put imitation beadlocks on, which are lighter than the factory toyota steel rims and about 2kgs different to the alloy wheels.
@@Resignandreset Correct... its closer to 6kgs per wheel.
I’ve got my breathers run up through my air box and up my snorkel they seem to work well
A video of where you can save weight with minimal compromise would be an interesting talk.
Do skinny tyres save decent weight?
Where can you swap steel and timber for lighter materials.
With your roof top tent setup, consider getting rid of the heavy steel roof rack and getting some basic bar roof racks (or an alloy roof rack at least). Attach your awnings to the RTT. You'll save a good 60kg...
My 80 has a GVM upgrade done by Morwell Springs, Not a cheap thing!!. to get the upgrade I needed to replace shockers and springs, upgrade brakes and undergo lots of brake and dive testing. ended up spending around four grand but have a GVM of 3600kg and a fully legal vehicle with 33's and a 2" lift. Weighs in at around 3200 with roof rack and rooftop tent, front and rear steel bars and a winch.
😂 I had to laugh at 18:43 when ya said ya don’t have any bar work 😂😂 rear bar sliders Bullbar Roof cage😂😂 how much more bar work is there 😂
Keep em coming son👍🏻👍🏻
Try searching for just heater taps. If you know the diameter hose and the direction. Try a company called ACE BUS spares. They are in Sydney and are really helpful. We use these heater taps on buses all the time.
A lot of drivers don’t know the towbar ball weight transfers to the vehicle weight.
I don't think getting a defect is likely with being over GVM, the main concern I'm aware of is if your way over GVM & have a accident your insurance company has a technical loophole to not payout as it would fall under "improper use of the car" which includes overloaded in most pds documents
Did you do the gearbox & xfer case breathers as well? I could only manage the diffs because it's incredibly hard to access the breather hose that connects to the gearbox & xfer case
Hey Patrick, in terms of GVM upgrades, there is this company DMW Up in QLD that do wagon chops, I know they do GVM upgrades for their custom dual cab Ute's but idk if they do it for wagons, that is the only shop I know that does those upgrades
Alot of poeple do gvm upgrades if that's what you talking about tjm do em aswell
Great ep, It cost me $770 for 296kg GVM upgrade in QLD, for my 1990 1HZ 80 series, thats using my heavy duty suspension i had in it , thats with a Vehicle engineer he did swerve and braking tests and fitted blue plate
Thanks for that Craig!
@@AussieArvos the rules have changed in the past few years, i think that you will have to new suspension if it's older than 1 year old even if you had already had a suspension setup installed to get a chance at getting it done and certified, that's why it has become expensive .
I weighed my 100 series last weekend on the way back from a trip with about the same amount of fuel as yours. 3440KG or 180KG over GVM. Similar mods to you but no rear bar, no sliders and no bash plates. To say I was shocked is an understatement. Might just try a different weigh bridge to be sure.
@E Bandit yeah I had my girlfriend and my 40KG dog with me. 270 awning, oztent on the roof rack, slab of beer in the fridge. There's definitely scope to drop weight but I also want to get sliders, bash plates and maybe one day a rear bar and long range tank. 🤔
Smithies in Pakenham do a gvm upgrade but yes they will want to put their own engineered springs in. I’m sure you will be fine all Toyota’s are are plated for low gvm basically 5 people and a full tank of fuel and you have hit your gvm.
Took out back seats and added a very lightweight pine and plywood platform to sleep on. Can put all I need under the platform or in the tinny. Car is now less than stock loaded
min 0:51 think of what you saying.. if it contracts it's NOT sucking air in but BLOWING air out
I can remember the first Minis..to save weight and cost, string as a door handle, push button starter and heater control under the bonnet...on in Winter and off for Summer..very similar to what you have ATM..lol
😂 I was over my GVM with my Patrol like most people who fit out their Rigs for Touring ...
I ended up getting a GVM Upgrade for my Series 4 Patrol ... All Engineered with a Compliance Plate ...
The Patrol's GVM was 3060 kg and it is Now 3300 kg ...
Happy Days 👍
Those oem hose clamps are actually better for things like that, because they apply even pressure, and don’t loosen even after a lot of heat cycles and road life. My two cents
When you do the breathers for the gearbox and transfer - make sure you pick up the breather for the CDL
Change your winch rope to plasma/dyneema type, thats 20kg of steel rope on your winch! Also look at things like changing the headlights to those fancy angel eye ones, those are entirely plastic and weigh a fair bit less than the oem glass dual headlights. If your roof rack is steel, sell it and get an aluminium one, if you have a rooftop tent, dont bolt it on to the roof basket, buy some separate individual racks for the tent that you can use only when using the rooftop tent. The drawer system, depending if its a solid timber one or not, theres definitely a good chunk of weight there, get a hole saw, peel some carpet back and drill lightening holes then reapply the carpet. Cooking utensils, go to plastic or ceramic instead of steel, knives usually weigh the most and ceramic knives are light and sharp!
Change brand of tyres! Something i found working in a Goodyear store for 4 years, some brands are insanley heavy, Toyo being one of the heaviest, and i mean 10kg per tyre more than others.
If you have a long range fuel tank that is steel, those tanks alone are around 40kg, Change to one of the new plastic ones, or stay with standard and carry jerry cans.
The falcon xr seats you are using are electric, if you arent using the electric movements of them, remove them. Change from steel wheels to alloys, look nicer and much lighter!
Change your starter battery from an n70zz size to a 55d size. Similar crank amps but only 2/3 the size. Since you dont use a whole lot of capacity on a starter battery that will be fine. Thats actually the size 200 series cruisers use factory for the same reason. Change the rear sliding wimdows from glass to gullwing, they are about 1/3 of the weight of all that glass.
I could go on, there are sooooo many things you can do to reduce weight. Another thing you can do though is a gvm upgrade, a certified modification, just make sure you get it certified for all states you plan to travel through, as some modifications are legal in one state and void in another.
At the end of the diff breathers you can put a dirtbike fuel filter in so you don’t suck any dust in
The top of those OEM breathers is a spring and seal type of breather and only to let it breathe out and then they close when it's cold which means it can be sucking air in from any gap in the driveline they can. Best to just put a $3 fuel filter on the end so it can breathe in and out. GVM and GCM are so important when it comes to insurance and claims, always need to keep them under.
Every wonder why the 4wd24/7 guy are all in their own cars... GVM...lol.. Rough cost is around $600 and you just need to update the springs to carry a heavier load... Would love to find someone cheaper to do it in QLD...
I think its only 10% as well max without any other mods
Will you get on to wire brushing and painting/sealing the underbody?
I extended my rear diff piping *into* my rear Quarter panel up to the rear side window. The shorter the better with the same re-enforced white pipe you used.
Interesting vid👍your base weight of 80 series plus GVM is not a lot, also if you were towing max weight with driver could send over GVM. You should see grey nomads with dangerous overload caravans, they get pull over but in Victoria on Easter n ANZAC holidays the Victorian Police were pulling over 4x4 vehicles. Stay safe out there👍
Ditch the rear bar, roof rack and get some alloy wheels and an alloy bar.
It all adds up.
I am not sure what the gq wagon is. The plates say around 2t and it goes over the scales at 21xx with my fat guts bull bar winch and safari roof.
it's just reducing weight on some things that are extremely heavy, it starts with the winch cable.
sucks you're over. but 3 ton isnt that bad, you did pretty good! I've seen a modded, empty, single cab, flat tray patrol on that bridge clock in at 2500kg!
full kit i'm also over, and way worse unfortunatly......at 1650kg vs 1270 GVM hahahaha.
regarding your diff breather. I'd recomend looking into regular ol' Nitrile fuel hose. PVC isn't good for hydrocarbon contact over a long time, especially in hot conditions. The Nylon tube is fantastic though, I use it the whole way through and vents into the snorkel.
I would just like to mention you may want to look at getting a shunt for the lithium set up .
Looking the voltage is pretty much pointless it will say 13.2+ volts all the way down until it dies and you will never know if your on 30 or 80 % by reading voltage
My 2011 pk rangers gem is 3019kg and when I went camping i was not sure what it waighed so I cheaked with a full tank and a passanger it came to 3060kg so I was 41kg over and since then I've added more things to the car
I had a discussion with a peddles bloke about gvm upgrade to my dual cab Ute. I’ve got the heaviest springs and shocks in it but that didn’t matter. If they are engineering it they had to supply and install everything and every nut and bolt used was paint marked. Any variation from that meant it was illegal.
Also I noticed the XR seats…not engineered then you’re illegal anyway. Love your work. Keep up the good content.
Wonder if it is different for a coil-sprung vehicle as there are no nuts and bolts in adding carrying weight with coils, just swap coils.
Yeah, I was going to ask what your vehicle weighed as I have just had to go through a big strip out process myself. I had steel drawers, long range tank, rtt, cargo barriers etc. Mine was 3230 all up. Way more than yours!
Another informative video. Great job🙂 Any updates on James's black TD42 or did it blow up? haha Cheers
You could get under the back of the vehicle to remove the chain & winch mechanism for the now unused original spare wheel setup. That would help weight reduction a bit.
This was the reason I sold my troopy ,buy the time you put all the good stuff on your cars overloaded, my 4x4 canter truck seats 7 all the room I need for all the toys ,and cheaper to run than my cruiser , and fully loaded with a 30 foot boat on I'm still under
I’m pretty sure I actually commented on one of your vids when were fitting out the inside. “ You’ll be close or over GVM”
Did you have any clunking in the rear or centre of the car when changing gears when you got it mate?
Patrols factory are into the engine bay 😉 but still a good idea to replace them when they are 20-30+years old 😂
Rear diff on earlier GU's still need a better breather line they dont go to the front.
The rear just goes into the cross member. Also worth relocating the fuel tank breather as it sits right behind the rear wheel and is the mean reason for getting water in your tank.
@@Sethjxl this! i cut a hole in the little grommet next to the body mount hole in the rear of my wagon and ran the breather up into the cab just below the bottom of the back windows
@@Sethjxl cheers mate I’ll keep that in mind 👍🏻
@@jayarre1839 yeah I wouldn’t be running a breather into my cab. Diff oil fckin stinks
You should weigh that draw system in that rear of the 80. I estimate that would weigh 80kg to 120kg empty.
Ive stuck with alloy wheels, alloy roof rack, a normal 2.5 x 2.5 awning with an extension, plastic tubs for storage, tents and swags for camping and 4wdriving. Pretty basic set up for the outdoors. I have a bullbar with winch, 33" tyres, 2 inch lift and bash plates. I've never weighed the GU Patrol fully loaded and was just wondering, would I be over with a basic set up seeing that the vehicle manufacturers don't give you much room for payload.
Google your GU and you'll get the figures . From memory unladen is 2450kg. Gvm 3060kg
@@bigfishfishing-111 Thanks for that mate.
You went for a good drive upto Yarragon. I used to drive back and forth daily. It’s always good to check your car GVM. A lot of small car drivers, overload IMMENSELY!
Super lucky to have a hoist in your man cave!🤸♀️🤸♀️🤸♀️
My short wheel base has a GVM of 2750kg it weighs in at 2750... my GQ long wheel bass weighs in at 2.4 tonne has tyres suspension bar work ect
With the heater valve if you had the broken pipe still you could have jerry rigged it by using a soldering iron to fuse it back together. Then just test to see if it holds water.
The bushes in your rear trailing arms look fucked bro I would get them sorted so your diff doesn't shatter and cause you some expensive damage.
Just saying I had this same issue love the video to
Are you still after a heater tap ???
alloy roofrack, and alloy tyres. that should short you out for gvm. but it would be good to see what's involved tbh
Alloy tyres would have interesting ride quality 😜
Its a bit crap how little wagons can have before they hit GVM. With me, My Wife & Son in the car we are currently left with about 80kg before packing most of our camping gear. In saying that like you I have drawers, fridge etc etc so some clothes and tent should keep us just under. Still pushing it. Thats in a 2002 NM Pajero.
Heat tap you can buy bro. Dayco make one and all 4x4 sell them $50
Change the wheels out for a larger size alloy wheel so the tyres side walls are smaller (larger tyres weigh a lot), alloy roof rack, replace wood draws for alloy and so on.
Weighbridges aren't 100% exact. My suggestion is to call up a few suspension shops and see if they have a set of scales you can use for it to be precise. Also useful to grab a printout of that and keep in your glovebox :) Good vid as always - been thinking about a travel buddy a bit too for mine. Not sure how long the oven would take to cook up some vege? Also - you look into that voltage mod for the travel buddy? Increases performance like crazy.
Can you get an alloy bulbar which is winch ready?
You're probably about another 200kg or more over gvm when fully loaded.
I've been in the exact situation with my 100series.
You got three options.. Ignore it and take the risk. Spend the dollars on a gvm upgrade. Or rethink your build and strip the weight down.
The best option is to strip the weight down, however, this can be just as expensive as doing a gvm upgrade. But, the benefits of reducing hundreds of kgs of your rig will transform it into a much more capable and better handling 4wd. Not to mentioned, more reliable and more efficient on fuel. You gotta believe!
Didn't he use wood for the rear cupboards?
Thanks mate, yeah it's a hard one, like I love having everything in the car, but yeah.
Have to wait and see, got some changes coming.
nice video ! good work ! how annoying all for a little part , what's gvm ? I upgraded all my suspension lol .. hopefully no vehicle inspection stations
Another cracka episode!! Extend breathers on diffs, gearbox and fuel tanks is a must
100% thanks Steve!
My blitz is only on the pumpkin.
It’s getting run to the air cleaner.
Love all the quirkiness ❤️❤️❤️❤️
I have to manually turn my heater tap on and off under the bonnet as my cable has seized up
Hi. I posted what I hoped was a useful link to help with the heater part, but my comment has disappeared. I hope you got the link and it's helpful. Keep up the good work.
LOL over gvm and not fully loaded and no roof top tent... and not full of fuel... what the hell you got in there?
Hey mate, when I did my breathers I found that the factory breather caps only allow air to flow in one direction which can be problematic for obvious reasons. Love your work mate!
Been over GVM is a real concern its possible to have your Insurance cover canceled or worse get you a seat in the coroner's court, some years ago a young acquaintance of mine lost a wheel on a boat trailer first day of a big trip unfortunately it hit a car travelling in the opposite direction killing the driver.
During the inquest it came out that axle was overloaded due to the boat been modified (bigger motor Larger fuel tanks & auxiliary motor ) and the boat was full of food, fuel and camping gear.
The tow vehicle and the combination of modifications and the load was also deemed it overloaded and unroadworthy due in part to the ball weight from the trailer a tragic outcome for everyone
What happened to the bloke
@@Tasfarmer Cost his family a small fortune to keep him out of jail but living with the guilt of the death was a ongoing punishment that effected him immensely
@@kisbushcraftdownunder that's ruff I know heaps of poeple over but one of those things poeple don't care about it's as simple as that
Is it legal to have jerrycans on the rear of a vehicle??
I tested mine when on the hwy to a recent high country trip, 50kg under in a mk patrol I was shocked I was that close with 1 person and while loaded not 'that' loaded
A lot of weight bridges aren’t accurate my concrete truck goes on weight bridges all the time and it gets different weights when empty so drop 40 kilos and get a weight receipt and keep it safe if you have any problems and don’t get to concerned all most all pumped up 4X4 ‘s are over weight cheers
GVM awareness is critical, so many drivers putting themselves way over.
G'day Pat,
Awesome video as usuall, one question though, I noticed when you were installing your remote entry your Atoto S8 wasnt in there? I was looking at the same set up, did you have issues with it? Cheers mate, all you guys are awesome
I have a S8 and can't recommend it. It's slow and laggy as fk to use. It works, but super slow.
@@LeonVanDongen thank you Leon, stay safe
Hey Pat,
You're unlikely to get stung by the coppers in Vic unless you're in a heavy vehicle (14t+) for being over GVM. However, if you're ever in a smash and someone gets hurt, it could be your undoing. If being overweight contributes to the collision and someone is seriously injured, it could result in gaol time.
That being said, 40kgs overweight probably isn't going to do it.
What draws are they?
Hey mate have you thought about maybe putting emu wings on either side of the 80 for accessibility? Awesome video as always
GVM affects your braking performance, steering, handling, roll and other characteristics. Not only does weight affect it so does stupid things like lift kits and bar work.
Another fantastic video good work Patrick!!!!!! 👌🏽🙌🏽
The new drawer system wouldn’t help the situation. Thanks for the content, cheers
Awsome video, what your fuel economy per 100km now with all the extra mods you’ve done?
don't feel bad about 40kg mate mines 200kg over GVM lol I really need to look into cutting some of the weight down or get are GVM upgrade but like you said they are very expensive.
I pretty sure I commented on Instagram that I believed your weight was 2950. I have taken my 80 over the scales and it came in at 2660. No rear bar, factory alloy bar,No wheel carrier and half the set up in the rear. I had half a tank of fuel plus myself at 2660. I have 5 other people to go in also so doesn’t leave any room to play with
If I remember correctly the gu front diff breather disappeares in the mug guard
Gvm upgrade would be epic, would be a good video too! Enjoyed the video again cheers