Turbo 8th Gen Honda Civic Hits The Dyno!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 พ.ค. 2024
- The Turbo Civic build FINALLY hits the dyno!!!
BUT we had a lot of issues...... I had no idea that Hondata had specific pins to run the boost controller & wideband to. I thought you could just tap into any duty cycled ground & set up that input as the boost controller in the Hondata software. BUT, I learned my lesson & I will never make that mistake again. Either way, for some reason my ECU is not doing it's job. At this piont I honestly think this ECU was build on a Monday or Friday & whoever built it just didn't add the Transistor to the EGR circuit. Obviously I'm super disappointed but this is the type of stuff you gotta deal with if you want to build cars. You're gonna have a lot of high's & a lot of lows, but as long as you don't stop chasing your passion you will always come out on top.
Hope you guys enjoyed the video!
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#turbo #honda #budgetbuild - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
on my boosted 8th gen im just running a 3 port from aem with their gauge with a built in boost controller. works fine, 4 ports are a pain on this chassis
I also have a boosted fg2 . These cars don’t like 4 port ebc’s , ecu doesn’t send enough power . Use a 3 port and you’ll have no issues.
Got me stoked man. So cool
She’s come a long way…we ain’t done yet though 🤪
Can I wire my wide band the same way on my 8th gen non si model?
Run the wire to the fuse box in front and then run ground to frame and the other in the pin connection 27:48
Hope everything works in the end for you
Im just running a amazon boost controller 9lbs street tune.
The thing to think about with that pin on the ECU is that it doesn't just affect the alternator at idle. A lot of the time manufactures will engage the clutch on the alternator under heavy load. This is done to reduce parasitic draw from the alternator when you're say accelerating onto the freeway (or doing pulls). So in theory using that pin may increase parasitic draw, not by much but something to think about.
My buddy has a 4 door skyline 0:53
A manual boost controller would work perfectly, I was running a 3port before and had a lot problems till I change it to a manual one 🙌🏻
On my 06, I am running a 4 port for my boost my gear. I followed Hondata’s suggestions and eventually got it working. It does require some dialing in for duty cycle and frequency. You really should have sorted that before the dyno day. Those are solid numbers. I would run a little softer spring so first and second will be more useful on the street, like a 5-6lb spring.
What was Hondata’s suggestions? All I saw on the Hondata software was an on/off switch for the boost control solenoid.
What was the boost at for those final numbers??
Use a 3 port with 5 lb spring in the wastegate tell your tuner to ease on frequency of controller... if it's too cold it will creep..
Very cool. Hi Matt!
I will tell him you say hi 🙃
You can run hot from the fuse box then the others where 8:32
Nice
What ecu is that obd 2 port hondata which one and fuel curve is the problem 310 plus pump and injectors 0:02
My cousin had a fully buikt brian criwer block head all internals $35,000 worth but rbb intake and GT35R turbo 0:09
Could always swap springs in the wastegate, at least to finish tuning
Been debating between turbo or supercharger for my FA5. Suspension and breaks have been done. Now it’s time for power. What to do?????
Turbooooo 🐌 🐌
@@DanielKellertisn’t more expensive? Cause I was thinking of doing the same. Either krafwerk or mercracing 1320 supercharger. What are your thoughts?
I wish PRL still had their kit selling but it was discontinued. I really want to do turbo but I would’ve never known to do what you did during your dyno session lol. I do prefer turbo though. Kraftwerks sc kit reasonable but also limited.
@henryflores8981 don't waste your money on crapwerks. My 8th gen is turbo also. Way more bang for your buck in the long run and can do it for a good cost If you do most of the work yourself, along with knowing people:)
Go to the junkyard and get an ecu connector… the pins for boost solenoid should be a gold pin, the silver one is larger so it causes issues.. The bottom rows on the connector is gold, the top ones are silver
It’s not the ecu.. is there a way I can send you that info
I used the purge control solenoid pin & moved it from pin 3 to pin 2. They are on the same row so the pins are the exact same size. Pin 2 is the EGR output, which is what Hondata specifies they want as the boost control output so it should be working. I wish this was the case though, would be a much easier fix.
Some cars work and some don’t
I would recommend getting an electronic boost controller and getting rid of the Hondata boost control. That’s what I did I got the Turbosmart Eboost2 and it works flawlessly plus I can adjust it on the fly. I know a lot of guys run the Cortex EBC also would look at getting a 3 port boost control solenoid the 4 port is over kill. Those ecu pin are not a reliable source. Hope this helps.
The Hondata 4 port is an electronic boost control solenoid. What do you mean the ecu pins are not a reliable source? Those ecu pins are what control 99% of the sensor & solenoid outputs/signals on the car. They are like the most reliable source you can get 😅
i did 8600 on stock oil pump, 😅 N/a of course
8th gen civics have a weak pwm ecu output to drive boost controllers. You need a cortex EBC to be able to run the 4port/3port reliably.
I run an electronic 4port hondata Mac valve and wired it to B2 exactly how it wants it. 0 issues.
Smart move not raising the rpm on a stock build 😂
Aem 310 is better e85 nad put 2 tunes and it will mak more you have to take your axle heads and put bigger inner shafts cause the holes amare diffrent they make 450hp all day 16:02
Yiu gotta add a fuse to your boost controller
It is fused. I’m using the factory purge valve 12v feed. Factory purge valve wiring has an in line fuse in the fuse box.
One wire should be connected to the ECU pin B2 (B16 S2000) using a 10A fuse.
@@carlosveliz3343 You don’t need a 10A fuse on a PWM ground side control wire. The fuse stays on the positive side of the circuit incase there is a short to ground prior to the sensor or load.
@@DanielKellert is the b2 for the purge valve? I thought the b2 was an empty spot
@@carlosveliz3343 I explained this in the video. The purge valve ground side control is pin B3. I removed pin B3 & moved it to the empty slot (Pin B2) which is the EGR output used for boost control. The ECU should be duty cycling that ground & it’s not.
Tou could hav bought 10 bottles of madditive for that and seen real gains 5:46
Use 3port
You Need a sensor ground not a battery ground.
The PWM sensor ground is pin B2. We were using the battery ground just to test the solenoid & hold it wide open to make sure the solenoid wasn’t stuck closed.
800th view boiii
If wd40 works it works
Sir, plz check your email💞💞