I agree. I don’t have the patience for stupid intros, watching those other clowns driving to the store to buy the products, and then taking 20 minutes to open the boxes.
Great job to show a cheap paint job. I have owned a body shop for 35 years and painted with Rust-Oleum acetone and hardener then clear-coated After applying the base coat completely wet sanded then two coats of clearcoat. There was definite areas that required some wet sanding and buffing wear orange peel occurred because of my spray overlay and hand speed with the gun. I'm not going to blame it on the product in other instances orange peel did not happen. I've had orange peel with every type of automotive paint used and I will repeat did usually never came down to the product but hand control of the gun. You're definitely an Old Skool Pro who did a great video for anyone wanting to put some sweat equity and cheaper finances into making a vehicle look better
Thanks for the comment - I enjoyed reading it. I agree with you on getting orange peel with any paint. By the way, what did you use for clear over rustoleum? Thanks again - Jerry
@@ray8380 I've seen videos on that but have not tried it myself. I'll look into that a see if there is a clear that will be successful over oil based enamel without sanding it first.
I’ve been painting semi truck frames with rustoleum for years. I live in Michigan and this paint holds up better than the factory paint or anything else.
if u use 4 parts paint and 3 parts acetone and 2 caps full of catylist hardner it will hold up just like reg auto paint there is a lot of hotrods painted with it and last for years
AWESOME video!! To the point, clear, no annoying talk and/or music. Thanks. I’m going to spray a car hauler, so it’s not going to be a work of art that has to look good, but I want it to look better!!
I’ve been painting with Rustoleum for decades. I prefer mineral spirits with a little hardener as acetone dries too fast. Color matching is always challenging.
RUSTOLIUM IS OIL BASED ENAMEL. YOU REALLY DONT WANT TO MIX ENAMEL WITH PAINT THINNER OR MINERAL SPIRITS. ACETONE IS BEST CUT. AND XY. ENAMEL IS GOOD FOR AUTO BODY, MOTORCYCLES ECT, BECAUSE WHEN IT CURES IT CURES HARD LIKE A SHELL. EPOXY IS TO SOFT. LAQUER IS GOOD FOR AUTO TOO. I PAINT ALL MY CROTCH ROCKETS WITH ENAMEL. MY ZX6R I DID A BASE COAT METALIC SILVER AND THE THINNED OUT A BURNT ORANGE WITH CLEAR COAT SO IT WAS TRANSPARENT, THEN TOPPED IT WITH HARD AUTO CLEAR. BUFFED IT. YOU WOULD NEVER BE ABLE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THIS PAINT JOB I DID AND A AUTO CANDY COAT. GOOD SHIT
Thanks for posting this. I just was looking for info on spraying a piece of equipment. But wow... I might even paint my 25 y/o truck now. Great instructional video. Thanks again!
Very impressed. Most painting videos I couldn't finish watching because they had annoying music or made me nauseous (I think they had the camera strapped to their wrist as they sanded!) Even more impressed Jerry that you patiently reply to any questions! I've subscribed.
Great vid. I painted my beater Jeep with your direction and it turned out really nice. Problem is, now it's not a "beater" anymore. Now, I'm actually picky about where I park it! I'll just have to find another beater Jeep toy... Many thanks for the vid!
Thank you for the efforts and putting your video together. I know now how to mix my Rust-Oleum paint. Sometimes we just need showed something once or twice so we know how to do it ourselves. Again thank you for the video.
Absolutely. The use of a hardener will make the paint dry faster and more durable too. www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enamel-Hardener-oz/dp/B000LNY1MY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Hi Jerry, I finally painted one of my old trucks with Rustoleum, '78 Chevy. It turned out pretty good. It's Safety Blue. It was a pretty beat up old truck, I had a ton of bodywork to do. I missed a couple dings too, Lol! Thank you for your awesome videos!!
I love hearing that. Who cares if there are a few mistakes - it happens to everyone. It's the guy/gal that can work with or repair their mistakes that succeeds. With every job you get better :)
So after you applied the number of coats desired and allowed to fully dry...what did you use to then sand it to which you finished that up by polishing the rustoleum?? What compound did you go with in respect to polishing end product???
@@vprince9907 when removing the orange peel effect in the paint wet sand with a fine grit sandpaper. Anywhere from 1500-2000+. Once you achieve a dull uniform finish use a two step paint compound and polish application. I have used meguiars m105 and m205 with an polisher and the results have been excellent. I hope this helps
Majic enamel hardener my help with that project. I think if you do a few test panels - like paint a few old coffee cans first, it may help you decide what setting, mix ratios, hardeners work best for you and the outside temperature you're working with :)
Another great video! I have not tried Acetone but did a lot with Rustoleum and Xylene and it worked great on new steel (angle, channel, square tubing etc). Back when the big 8 & 10 foot dish antennas were sprouting everywhere (70s & 80s?) I was building antenna mounts for them, along with other metal fab work. Rustoleum cut with Xylene was my go-to paint. Looked nice and, for reasons I can't explain, seemed more durable than when I cut it with paint thinner. Larry
When I had an appliance business, I would use Naptha to thin an enamel paint, and I used a viscosity cup to determine the mix. I forget what the time was for the cup, but it gave great results.
I've heard of the viscosity cup and really need to get one. Sometimes paint is way to thick the way they say to mix it i.e. paintforcars.com acrylic enamel single stage, rustoleum, etc.
@@LakesideAutobody I'll try the website, and yes, the instructions can make it way too thick. I often see instructions say not to thin more than 10%. It would still be thick as syrup. Too thick for even brushing it on some iron railing.
I tried the same thing on a f-250 - after a few months in the sun the paint checked like alligator skin - the Helmsman caused that - never happens with just Rustoleum.
Rustoleum is an alkyd enamel and it’ll act like any other enamel when thinned, and if you add an enamel hardener it will catalyze like any other 2k paint. Just thinning it will make it dry faster but it won’t last and it will come off with chemicals like acetone.
Did a lot of panels on my cars like this and years later they’re still holding up strong. I’m in the middle of painting my old neon grey right now like this
Using acetone as a thinner will take days to dry. Med dry reducer will give it a higher gloss finish. Keep your spray gun 6 inches from whatever your painting is the key.
In our shop we tried 3 or 4 different clear over the rustoleum. Endura clear coat, PPG clear coat, industrial high performance clear coat, and even Rust-Oleum clear coat. All of them worked fine we never had an issue with the Rust-Oleum being clear-coated when we left enough time for the and elapsed time between clear coat. We did have occasion when we did not leave enough time and one or two areas created little bubblrs. I agree with you that proper preparation wipe down and pure common sense make a better job. Every instance when we had issues related to Rushing of speed because somebody wanted economical job. Moral of the story take a little extra time letting things set up pays dividends and not having to redo the job and spend that extra time and materials to redo it. A good quality masking tape and sandpaper make a huge difference also on an effective job. As for having Hi-Tech paint booths. In the 70s custom paint jobs we're done on dirt floors that were wedded down not a downdraft heated paint booth. Keep up the good videos you're a true old school pro
Absolutely! My dad worked at a place called JR's Custom Paint in Utica, MI - they did vets and custom vans with cool pictures of mermaids and all kinds of stuff. They were the most beautiful paint jobs I've ever seen and they were done right there in the shop (no booth) - Have a great week - Jerry
Using “rustoleum” makes sense, to beat back rust. I don’t know much about paint, but it seems it’d be more durable. Ty. You have very informative videos.
Ive done 4 complete rustoleum paint jobs on cars using only rustoleum and acetone. no wet sanding. Heres my take on it. Pros- super cost effective, fairly easy to spray and youre probably going to be doing this to a beater of some sort so it will look wayy better than before. Cons- tendency to orange peel, long drying time, not as hard as real auto paint and you can expect it to lose some of its gloss within a year. Also I wouldnt do this to a car that you may want to repaint with actual automotive paint in the future.
Awesome and very informative video! I'm in the process of prepping my civic for paint -- going from factory green to white! Hopefully it turns out as nice as yours! Any way to avoid the orange peel effect? sanding and buffing?
@@mmandros51 they recommend with acetone best..I did it with acetone and then wetsand and polish and came out great!! 1 to 1 with thinner worked as well for you?
Let me know how it goes. If you're spraying the frame, you can mix the paint a bit thicker. The mix ratio is really up to you and what works best for your project.
Orange peel was also from the mix ratio. It still looked a bit too thick. And the spray pattern was too tight. Need to open up that fan more, and yes, slow down the gun speed!
Right around 20-25 psi. I keep it a bit low eliminate excessive fumes and over spray. It really doesn't matter as long as the paint is wet. Like a spray bomb can - real low pressure but you can still get great results.
@@austinbradley3411 1/4" for the fittings and 3/8 good quality rubber hose - you don't want the hose flopping around, acting unpredictable when your painting a car - hope that answers your ? - Jerry
Okbanyone who wants to do this here you go: Mix the rustoleum (alkyd enamel) with acetone to whatever consistency you like just don't go higher than a 50 - 50 ratio, then throw in an acrylic enamel hardener. Do not use urethane hardeners the chemistry is different. Using the enamel hardener catalyzes the paint, making it resistant to chemicals like gas and gives it UV protection so it won't go chalky like rustoleum right out of the can will. I offer this at my shop for cheap paint jobs as an alternative to certain chain store body shops like MAACO. Not that every Maaco is shit but a lot of them are
@@LakesideAutobody I was taught paint and body by an old Cuban dude at the hobby shop at my first base. He showed us how to use different types of paint and such. But when I see people who don't know what they hell thyre talking about in the comments telling people how a rustoleum paint job is a scam or only rednecks do this shit it gets my autism acting up
Very nice video easy to understand and I wanted to ask you do you spray or clear coat after this and what kind of clear coat also how long do you wait to paint over the first layer how many clear coats do you use and the time in between the coats
If you clear it with enamel or urethane you'll have to scuff it or sand it with some very fine grit paper after it cures (takes a while for this stuff to cure). I'd wait about a month actually then 10 minutes between coats of clear :)
I've heard of folks doing it but I have not. I would wait till the rustoleum completely dried - like a month or more then wet sand with 600 or finer. Then go ahead and clear it - can't really go wrong like that :)
4 parts paint and 3 parts acetone, does that mean for example 4 Oz. Paint and 3 Oz. acetone? Thank you for the video I'm going to have a lot of painting to do this will help me drastically.
Glad I discovered this video! I have a '94 Chevy 1500 W/T with what I call 'Snakeskin Syndrome'. I peeled off the loose paint and sanded off the crappy factory primer and going Rust-Oleum all the way. I'm going to try my luck with an HVLP airless paint sprayer I got at Harbor Freight. Thanks for the tips on how to mix the paint, it's going to be very helpful to me.
Let me know how it goes. This enamel hardener may help you out a bit too - it'll dry faster, shine real nice, and be a bit more durable - www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enamel-Hardener-oz/product-reviews/B000LNY1MY
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the tip! I'll definitely look into that as I've had previous experience with hardners in paint and agree that the results would be better.
@@ronnieyoung7510 No problem. You'll mix 4 parts of paint to 1 part of hardener then thin it with right around 2-3 parts acetone or even mineral spirits. Here's a video on mixing paint that may help if you have trouble with ratios - th-cam.com/video/cua8Y7hXzak/w-d-xo.html Keep asking ?s - no worries - Jerry
I like using the hardener too - I didn't use it in the vid but it works well. Paint dries much faster - almost like professional automotive paint - nice shine too.
Thank you for demonstrating quick, easy and cheap painting. If it's not too late, I'd love to know the approximate time between coats? Does it dry completely, or is there a trick to know when you can give another layer?
Generally with any paint auto or home, you would wait till the last coat is tacky dry or dry to the touch. Rustoleum drys slow and depends on warm temps to dry faster. Usually 1/2 hour to hour with Rustoleum and 10 minutes with regular auto paint :)
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome. I really appreciate your taking time to answer my question. I'm off to paint my truck, cheap fast and easy like you taught. Cheers!
Question for ya...I pulled my Monte's engine...now I am grinding and sanding and everything else to my engine compartment. Can I use my regular primer, a few coats, then regular base and clear? Gloss black is the result I'm looking for. Appreciate ya man.
Rustoleum used to be cheap it’s now 28$ a quart. Without hardener or acetone so it doesn’t make sense to use anymore. I’m better of with a single stage. But it’s more problematic. Thanks for the upload.
the definition of a wet coat.... I am assuming the same paint /thinner ratio... same air pressure...only more paint applied per square inch..in other words, closer or more passes or slower travel speed or all of the above?
If you use hardener in the paint, I think it would hold up quite well. Rustoleum holds up pretty well if you buff it every once in a while like lacquer but not as well as more expensive automotive paints.
Rustoleum takes some time to dry so on warm days 70+ 1/2 hour between coats - when cold much longer. If the last coat is dry or at least tacky, you're ready for another :)
Thank you for making simple easy to understand videos! Can you give the approximate time between coats? I tried using Rust oleum before and it took hours to tack up. Does the acetone make it quicker between coats? Thanks again!
Acetone does help but Rustoleum likes warm temps - over 70 is best. That being said - wait till the last coat is dry or tacky. It could take 1/2 hour to hour sometimes. Use a hardener by MAJIC of similar - it will really make a difference for you.
Thanks, very good information. My temps were in the 50-60 range so probably where my issue of drying was. Your videos are the best on TH-cam. Too bad I didn't see them before I made all the mistakes. I also very much appreciate that you don't have all the loud obnoxious irritating music in yours. Thanks again.
I'm usually at around 25 psi on every type of paint. For rustoleum you have to wait a good 1/2 hour or more. When it gets tacky dry, you're ready for another coat. Rustoleum runs pretty easy on vertical panels so go lightly at first.
I have a 84 K10 that needs paint and what you were able to achieve is plenty good for my purpose. I've got two questions; what is the timing between the coats, and would this work with flat finish paint? Thank you!
Yes it would work fine with the satin or flat rustoleum - here's a video on that - th-cam.com/video/TO39VTcbNMo/w-d-xo.html Time between coats depends on the temperature you are painting in. Hot weather 70+ about 1/2 between coats. Colder temps and you'll need and hour - rustoleum dries pretty slow. Basically when any spray paint is dry or tacky dry you're ready for another coat. You just don't want to throw another coat over wet paint as it will likely run.
Cheap tools & materials represent the single biggest mistake DIYers make when approaching these types of projects. Remember tools are NOT an expense ~ they are an investment that you make in order to achieve superior results. They can then be sold for 85-90% of their value once the job is done and in the end it will cost less than renting. These 2 budget HVLP Systems are the best hold their value: 1st choice: Fuji 2202 Semi-PRO 2 (2203 gravity version) & 2nd choice: Earlex HV5500.
With repect, Binks, DeVilbiss, Sata, and Sharpe are examples of quality spray guns for automotive use. Many of the copies of these great guns work very well too for a fraction of the cost. I used a DeVilbiss copy for years in a professional shop and it sprayed real nice. Jerry
Thanks FF - Right out of the can it can be rolled but might be a bit on the thick side so you can thin it just a bit with paint thinner, mineral spirits or acetone. Just thin it till you're happy how it looks :)
You're right - Air pressure 25 psi at the gun and tip size is 1.7 mm. You can spray this paint with any gun really from 1.4 - 1.8 mm or even outside of those parameters
A hardener works very well with it. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/majic-catalyst-hardener-clear-half-1-2-pint-1177127?store=632&cid=Shopping-Google-Organic_Feed-Product-1177127&cid= If you want a paint that holds up a bit better in the sun try TCP Global's Restoration Shop paint - cheap and works very well - th-cam.com/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/w-d-xo.html
i Fn hated my compressor kickin on all the time when i was tryin to run things like the die grinder so i simply plugged another air compressor into the manifold of the other one, now iv got more capacity And "twice" as much cfm its SOO nice, n so simple i was pissed when i didnt think of it before lol
With Rustoleum it depends on the temp of the shop. 1/2 hour if warm hours if cold. Basically wait till the last coat is dry or at least tacky dry. It was about 70 degrees, pressure ~ 25psi, gun has a 1.7mm tip (campbell hausfeld - binks model 7 copy)
Good question. It was hot that day - like 90 - so 5-10 minutes. Usually it's 10 minutes between coats of base then wait 1/2 hour to an hour to clear it :)
i use rustoleum on some out side furniture and it oxidized and faded in one year from the sun so i don't think it will last on a car and by using it mite f up the next paint job if not stripped off the only way it would last if clear coat it with mixed in is hardener
Thank you for the video... I plan on painting an old suburban i have... Already white and im fixing some rust repair now an wanting to repaint white... The old girl is pretty far down on the budget list for the 4 vehicles i have. She is just my winter, fishing ride. Still love her and going to do best job i can, just on a budget. I hear people talk about hardner... What hardner can be used?
I heard folks talk about that too. I like hardener - definitely shines better, dries faster, and holds up better. I would make sure it is made for the exact paint you are using though. I get the budget thing! If you have any ?s just ask - Jerry
@3G Craftsman 3 parts paint 1 part paint thinner and as for the hardener, the whole can is for one gallon of paint so i just do the math according to how much paint in using
I'm adding a hardener, super wet, can I do 4 paint, 3 acetone, 1 hardener? Also, painting in my backyard, no shade, getting over 90° now. Will light coat make Tiger stripes? Rust-Oleum gloss white, over sanded original white paint. Plan on doing in stages, took off bumper covers, all trim, wish me luck!
Straight down to business with this video. Very easy to follow, and not complicated at all. Thank you very much for posting this video!
You're welcome MDS - glad you liked it :)
I agree. I don’t have the patience for stupid intros, watching those other clowns driving to the store to buy the products, and then taking 20 minutes to open the boxes.
i use rustoleum all the time on trailers, equipment cheap, easy to spray , good product
Great job to show a cheap paint job.
I have owned a body shop for 35 years and painted with Rust-Oleum acetone and hardener then clear-coated
After applying the base coat completely wet sanded then two coats of clearcoat.
There was definite areas that required some wet sanding and buffing wear orange peel occurred because of my spray overlay and hand speed with the gun. I'm not going to blame it on the product in other instances orange peel did not happen.
I've had orange peel with every type of automotive paint used and I will repeat did usually never came down to the product but hand control of the gun.
You're definitely an Old Skool Pro who did a great video for anyone wanting to put some sweat equity and cheaper finances into making a vehicle look better
Thanks for the comment - I enjoyed reading it. I agree with you on getting orange peel with any paint. By the way, what did you use for clear over rustoleum? Thanks again - Jerry
The other videos out there often confuse me. These videos are straightforward and understandable. I know I can do this now.
Glad to hear it Johan - have a good weekend :)
what would happen if i spray clear coat after
@@ray8380 I've seen videos on that but have not tried it myself. I'll look into that a see if there is a clear that will be successful over oil based enamel without sanding it first.
Should I use some of that Japanese dryer with acetone
I painted a blue Chevy I had with blue Rust-Oleum came out beautiful. I find that to be the best paint for the price you can't complain...😁👍👍👍
I’ve been painting semi truck frames with rustoleum for years. I live in Michigan and this paint holds up better than the factory paint or anything else.
You're right. Rustoleum is oil based enamel and it's really pretty tough stuff :)
if u use 4 parts paint and 3 parts acetone and 2 caps full of catylist hardner it will hold up just like reg auto paint there is a lot of hotrods painted with it and last for years
Would it dry faster and come out less gummy?
@@overratedsrtchallenger when u put the hardner in it it will dry quicker but u have to wait a few days before u drive it
Great tip
@@tonimalveaux67 thanks
Can I use moré harder?
Not to mention, I’ve seen some beautiful, rust oleum paint jobs they color sand it and buff and it looks beautiful
AWESOME video!! To the point, clear, no annoying talk and/or music. Thanks. I’m going to spray a car hauler, so it’s not going to be a work of art that has to look good, but I want it to look better!!
It will work fine for that :)
Good job. I did an old car of mine using 50/50 Rustoleum to mineral spirits and it came out really good. Nice cheap way to pretty up a rat.
Thanks - Jerry
Did you stand father away from the car with the 50/50 ratio so it won't run
This guy at Lakeside auto has great videos for the man that wants to get out of the house and DIY.
Thanks Mark - glad you like them :)
I’ve been painting with Rustoleum for decades. I prefer mineral spirits with a little hardener as acetone dries too fast. Color matching is always challenging.
Thanks for you input :)
What the ratio and what type hardener did you use
Any paint hardener
RUSTOLIUM IS OIL BASED ENAMEL. YOU REALLY DONT WANT TO MIX ENAMEL WITH PAINT THINNER OR MINERAL SPIRITS. ACETONE IS BEST CUT. AND XY. ENAMEL IS GOOD FOR AUTO BODY, MOTORCYCLES ECT, BECAUSE WHEN IT CURES IT CURES HARD LIKE A SHELL. EPOXY IS TO SOFT. LAQUER IS GOOD FOR AUTO TOO. I PAINT ALL MY CROTCH ROCKETS WITH ENAMEL. MY ZX6R I DID A BASE COAT METALIC SILVER AND THE THINNED OUT A BURNT ORANGE WITH CLEAR COAT SO IT WAS TRANSPARENT, THEN TOPPED IT WITH HARD AUTO CLEAR. BUFFED IT. YOU WOULD NEVER BE ABLE TO TELL THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THIS PAINT JOB I DID AND A AUTO CANDY COAT. GOOD SHIT
@@gregpetty4185 what's the problem with it drying too fast?
Thanks for posting this. I just was looking for info on spraying a piece of equipment. But wow... I might even paint my 25 y/o truck now. Great instructional video. Thanks again!
You're welcome - Jerry
Very impressed. Most painting videos I couldn't finish watching because they had annoying music or made me nauseous (I think they had the camera strapped to their wrist as they sanded!)
Even more impressed Jerry that you patiently reply to any questions! I've subscribed.
Thanks, ask as many ?'s as you want. Have a great weekend.
When he says wet and wetter does he meen different mixer or a gun setting?
Majic it is! Can a very fine metal flake be added to Rust Oleum?
If so, just on the last coat or on every coat?
I painted a bus using Rustoleum. Bought white and tinted it tan. Worked great!
That's good to hear - it is actually pretty darn good paint for the price.
Did you use straight or a ruducer
@@anthonymaniz1933 reduced enough to replicate automotive paint.
Great vid. I painted my beater Jeep with your direction and it turned out really nice. Problem is, now it's not a "beater" anymore. Now, I'm actually picky about where I park it! I'll just have to find another beater Jeep toy... Many thanks for the vid!
That's really good to hear. Yep the fun is actually looking for them. Jerry
I am getting ready to paint my beetle fenders, this is really helpful!
Glad to hear it MHL - feel free to ask ?s as you go :)
Thank you for the efforts and putting your video together. I know now how to mix my Rust-Oleum paint. Sometimes we just need showed something once or twice so we know how to do it ourselves. Again thank you for the video.
You're welcome
I agree, but im a virgin truck painter.
David
Alberta
@@davidweum9334 you can do bro just take your time with it an you'll do fine.. got any pics of the job ?
I gotta start out with a 1 to 1
What ratio did you use could you answer me please appreciate it
I have an old vintage Mac Tool chest that I've been restoring, and this would be an excellent paint choice!
Absolutely. The use of a hardener will make the paint dry faster and more durable too. www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enamel-Hardener-oz/dp/B000LNY1MY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Hi Jerry, I finally painted one of my old trucks with Rustoleum, '78 Chevy. It turned out pretty good. It's Safety Blue. It was a pretty beat up old truck, I had a ton of bodywork to do. I missed a couple dings too, Lol! Thank you for your awesome videos!!
I love hearing that. Who cares if there are a few mistakes - it happens to everyone. It's the guy/gal that can work with or repair their mistakes that succeeds. With every job you get better :)
I will paint my core support and inner fenders with this .They offer a catalyst for hardener that I use too . Thanks for the. Always a big help.
Glad to hear it - it is great paint once it dries - pretty durable.
Very usefull content on a budget
Great just the video I’m looking for because I got off track and was overdoing it. This will get me back in the ballpark.
Thank OS - glad you liked it :)
I used rustolium paint on a 2g dsm. Turned out nice after sanding and polishing.
So after you applied the number of coats desired and allowed to fully dry...what did you use to then sand it to which you finished that up by polishing the rustoleum?? What compound did you go with in respect to polishing end product???
@@vprince9907 when removing the orange peel effect in the paint wet sand with a fine grit sandpaper. Anywhere from 1500-2000+. Once you achieve a dull uniform finish use a two step paint compound and polish application. I have used meguiars m105 and m205 with an polisher and the results have been excellent. I hope this helps
This is the best channel to have ever come across!
Thanks Topcat - I appreciate your kind words :)
Thank you Jerry, I am planning on doing this on two old trucks this summer! Not show trucks, LOL!
I'm sure it will look just fine. Jerry
Claybird how did the two old trucks turn out?
I’m planning to repaint my ‘29 model A with a Rust oleum paint. I like your technique.
Majic enamel hardener my help with that project. I think if you do a few test panels - like paint a few old coffee cans first, it may help you decide what setting, mix ratios, hardeners work best for you and the outside temperature you're working with :)
Another great video! I have not tried Acetone but did a lot with Rustoleum and Xylene and it worked great on new steel (angle, channel, square tubing etc). Back when the big 8 & 10 foot dish antennas were sprouting everywhere (70s & 80s?) I was building antenna mounts for them, along with other metal fab work. Rustoleum cut with Xylene was my go-to paint. Looked nice and, for reasons I can't explain, seemed more durable than when I cut it with paint thinner. Larry
Rustoleum is actually pretty good paint for rust protection as it is very durable for sure. Thanks for the comment.
Every video I've watch has shown acetone for thinning... but I've always used xylene.
When I had an appliance business, I would use Naptha to thin an enamel paint, and I used a viscosity cup to determine the mix. I forget what the time was for the cup, but it gave great results.
I've heard of the viscosity cup and really need to get one. Sometimes paint is way to thick the way they say to mix it i.e. paintforcars.com acrylic enamel single stage, rustoleum, etc.
@@LakesideAutobody I'll try the website, and yes, the instructions can make it way too thick. I often see instructions say not to thin more than 10%. It would still be thick as syrup. Too thick for even brushing it on some iron railing.
@@LakesideAutobody By the way, are you in Lakeside California?
acetone evaporates faster then naptha :quick dry between coats
I plan on painting my truck soon, and was wondering what a good mix would be for rust oleum. Thanks for sharing this video
You're welcome. I've heard of a mix ratio of 5 parts paint to 2 parts acetone too if you want to spray it a little thicker.
I custom painted my motorcycle with Rustoleum, sealed it with Minwax Helmsman clear coat and it came out beautiful.
Thanks for that comment. A lot of folks have been asking about a clear coat for it. Have a great weekend :)
I tried the same thing on a f-250 - after a few months in the sun the paint checked like alligator skin - the Helmsman caused that - never happens with just Rustoleum.
Where did you buy the clear coat at I appreciate for the answer to me I need to start an old car I'd like to clear coat it thank you
Rustoleum is an alkyd enamel and it’ll act like any other enamel when thinned, and if you add an enamel hardener it will catalyze like any other 2k paint. Just thinning it will make it dry faster but it won’t last and it will come off with chemicals like acetone.
spray a 2k gloss clear over it
You can get a decent gloss just by adding hardener.
Did a lot of panels on my cars like this and years later they’re still holding up strong. I’m in the middle of painting my old neon grey right now like this
Thanks for your input RJ :)
If u let it cure for 2 to 3 days you can wet sand and spray auto clear over the top
Thank you for the tip!
I wonder how it would hold up?
Using acetone as a thinner will take days to dry. Med dry reducer will give it a higher gloss finish. Keep your spray gun 6 inches from whatever your painting is the key.
Are you talking about this type of reducer - Majic 8-0750-3 Enamel Reducer or are you saying you are using urethane reducer?
Great video !! thats the way to do it. You can also add some medium hardener (0.8 part) Will be easier to cut n buff
I agree. Works nice with the hardener. You can mix it a little thicker I think too - it does run easy.
Which hardner can I use? Clear coat activator would work?
@@rigoslittleshop9430 usually using universal acrylic eurethane hardener. Medium speed for clearcoats
In our shop we tried 3 or 4 different clear over the rustoleum. Endura clear coat, PPG clear coat, industrial high performance clear coat, and even Rust-Oleum clear coat.
All of them worked fine we never had an issue with the Rust-Oleum being clear-coated when we left enough time for the and elapsed time between clear coat.
We did have occasion when we did not leave enough time and one or two areas created little bubblrs.
I agree with you that proper preparation wipe down and pure common sense make a better job. Every instance when we had issues related to Rushing of speed because somebody wanted economical job.
Moral of the story take a little extra time letting things set up pays dividends and not having to redo the job and spend that extra time and materials to redo it.
A good quality masking tape and sandpaper make a huge difference also on an effective job.
As for having Hi-Tech paint booths. In the 70s custom paint jobs we're done on dirt floors that were wedded down not a downdraft heated paint booth.
Keep up the good videos you're a true old school pro
Absolutely! My dad worked at a place called JR's Custom Paint in Utica, MI - they did vets and custom vans with cool pictures of mermaids and all kinds of stuff. They were the most beautiful paint jobs I've ever seen and they were done right there in the shop (no booth) - Have a great week - Jerry
Great job l like the way it looks
Excellent video again, thanks from London England 👍😎🏴
You're welcome A BC. How's living in London England?
Great job! You make it look so easy!
Using “rustoleum” makes sense, to beat back rust. I don’t know much about paint, but it seems it’d be more durable. Ty. You have very informative videos.
Thanks Daddy Crab - I appreciate the support :)
@@LakesideAutobody you are welcome sir. Years of experience you have. Awesome.
Do I need a binks no 7 for this ? the epa took mine years ago. lol
I noticed that too. For non commercial use it would probably be OK. I still have my Devilbiss JGAs hanging in their cabinet.
Thanks for Answering just trying to figure out the paint and body work just for myself thanks again.
You're welcome - any time :)
Ive done 4 complete rustoleum paint jobs on cars using only rustoleum and acetone. no wet sanding. Heres my take on it.
Pros-
super cost effective, fairly easy to spray and youre probably going to be doing this to a beater of some sort so it will look wayy better than before.
Cons-
tendency to orange peel, long drying time, not as hard as real auto paint and you can expect it to lose some of its gloss within a year. Also I wouldnt do this to a car that you may want to repaint with actual automotive paint in the future.
Great advice - thanks
It also helps to use a hardener and Japan Drier.
Nice video dude 👍 ! I was wondering how many time u wait between each coat ?
With Rustoleum I'd wait 1/2 hour or so. Sort of depends on the temp. If it's somewhat tacky go ahead and give it another coat.
@@LakesideAutobody thx ! 👍
Will use this info. No more rattle cans. Thank you.
One thing to remember is when it's cold this paint likes to run so be careful. Use light coats and give it time to tack up before the next coat.
How long of a wait in between coats?
I waited exactly 10 minutes but longer like 15 minutes might be better. Jerry
C
Can Rust-Oleum be sanded and buffed?
James Warren yes
Be careful not to wait to long! And especially on hot day. It will wrinkle the paint. Been there done that! 😳
1 oz catalyst or japan drier should be mixed in to the paint and acetone mixture because rustoleum takes a week to fully dry without throughly
Absolutely agree - it works a lot better w/ hardener
Awesome and very informative video! I'm in the process of prepping my civic for paint -- going from factory green to white! Hopefully it turns out as nice as yours! Any way to avoid the orange peel effect? sanding and buffing?
If you get orange peel you can wet sand with 1000-1500 grit and wheel it. Jerry
Mix that shit 1 to 1 with laquer thinner and it’ll lay like glass
@@mmandros51 they recommend with acetone best..I did it with acetone and then wetsand and polish and came out great!! 1 to 1 with thinner worked as well for you?
@@rigoslittleshop9430 I’ve used both thinner and acetone and both worked well. Dries faster with acetone.
@@mmandros51 and even then acetone took me about a whole day and half. In a week later I could still scratch the paint easy with my nail lol
This is really cool Jerry. I'm itching to start, but have to make sure the frame and mechanicals are sound first.
Let me know how it goes. If you're spraying the frame, you can mix the paint a bit thicker. The mix ratio is really up to you and what works best for your project.
nice job but a little to fast on the gun, slow down a little it will lay down smoother less orange peel
Orange peel was also from the mix ratio. It still looked a bit too thick.
And the spray pattern was too tight. Need to open up that fan more, and yes, slow down the gun speed!
Big thanks going to do that on my trailer..
You're welcome JO :)
What was your air PSI set at?
Right around 20-25 psi. I keep it a bit low eliminate excessive fumes and over spray. It really doesn't matter as long as the paint is wet. Like a spray bomb can - real low pressure but you can still get great results.
Acrylic enamel hardner added 10% to your mixed paint will make it dry faster, harder and more chemical resistant.
Like auto body ‘hardener?’ Or the hardware store enamel paint additive(s)?
@@fishhuntadventure Try a small amount of Japan Drier too
How long did you wait between each coat?
Christiancowboy wait 30 to 45 minutes
I add enamel reducer and clear coat hardener to rust oleum, hardener makes it shine longer
That stuff works real well in the rustoleum - shines like real auto paint really.
Using a HVLP spray gun. What psi does your Siphon gun need?
I usually set it so that I get maximum fluid with the least amount of over spray. Probably around 30 psi at the gun but 90 psi out of the compressor.
What size is the hose/connector ya using?
@@austinbradley3411 1/4" for the fittings and 3/8 good quality rubber hose - you don't want the hose flopping around, acting unpredictable when your painting a car - hope that answers your ? - Jerry
Nice job & video. Can that be done with an 8 gal. Air compressor?
Thanks Kevin - yes you can use an 8 gal compressor. You might have to let it catch up for a whole car but for small jobs, it should do just fine.
Good stuff ! Also Check out James D Guy . Mooremotorsports. This guys does a lot with rusto
I will - thanks for watching - Jerry
Okbanyone who wants to do this here you go:
Mix the rustoleum (alkyd enamel) with acetone to whatever consistency you like just don't go higher than a 50 - 50 ratio, then throw in an acrylic enamel hardener. Do not use urethane hardeners the chemistry is different. Using the enamel hardener catalyzes the paint, making it resistant to chemicals like gas and gives it UV protection so it won't go chalky like rustoleum right out of the can will. I offer this at my shop for cheap paint jobs as an alternative to certain chain store body shops like MAACO. Not that every Maaco is shit but a lot of them are
Thanks for the support and information my friend - have a good week :)
@@LakesideAutobody I was taught paint and body by an old Cuban dude at the hobby shop at my first base. He showed us how to use different types of paint and such. But when I see people who don't know what they hell thyre talking about in the comments telling people how a rustoleum paint job is a scam or only rednecks do this shit it gets my autism acting up
Very nice video easy to understand and I wanted to ask you do you spray or clear coat after this and what kind of clear coat also how long do you wait to paint over the first layer how many clear coats do you use and the time in between the coats
If you clear it with enamel or urethane you'll have to scuff it or sand it with some very fine grit paper after it cures (takes a while for this stuff to cure). I'd wait about a month actually then 10 minutes between coats of clear :)
It looks amazing 😮
Thanks Patrice - have a good weekend my friend :)
Less than two minutes in and I am already smiling.
That's good..... I hope 👍😊
Hello Good video and lot of great information.Q: can i spray urethane clear coat on top of Rustoleum.
I've heard of folks doing it but I have not. I would wait till the rustoleum completely dried - like a month or more then wet sand with 600 or finer. Then go ahead and clear it - can't really go wrong like that :)
4 parts paint and 3 parts acetone, does that mean for example 4 Oz. Paint and 3 Oz. acetone? Thank you for the video I'm going to have a lot of painting to do this will help me drastically.
Yes. Use less Acetone if it's too thin for you're liking. Glad it helped :)
Glad I discovered this video! I have a '94 Chevy 1500 W/T with what I call 'Snakeskin Syndrome'. I peeled off the loose paint and sanded off the crappy factory primer and going Rust-Oleum all the way. I'm going to try my luck with an HVLP airless paint sprayer I got at Harbor Freight. Thanks for the tips on how to mix the paint, it's going to be very helpful to me.
Let me know how it goes. This enamel hardener may help you out a bit too - it'll dry faster, shine real nice, and be a bit more durable - www.amazon.com/Valspar-4625-Enamel-Hardener-oz/product-reviews/B000LNY1MY
@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the tip! I'll definitely look into that as I've had previous experience with hardners in paint and agree that the results would be better.
@@LakesideAutobody I don't want to keep bugging you can you send me the paint ratio again I appreciate it
@@ronnieyoung7510 No problem. You'll mix 4 parts of paint to 1 part of hardener then thin it with right around 2-3 parts acetone or even mineral spirits. Here's a video on mixing paint that may help if you have trouble with ratios - th-cam.com/video/cua8Y7hXzak/w-d-xo.html Keep asking ?s - no worries - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody it's not a problem can you send me the number on the hard enough at tractor supply you get
nice info for 3 coats, soft tack, med and heavy last coat
I like using the hardener too - I didn't use it in the vid but it works well. Paint dries much faster - almost like professional automotive paint - nice shine too.
Lakeside Autobody when choosing hardener, is any specific brand best to mix with rustoleum? Also what amount is used?
Thanks
Thank you for demonstrating quick, easy and cheap painting. If it's not too late, I'd love to know the approximate time between coats? Does it dry completely, or is there a trick to know when you can give another layer?
Generally with any paint auto or home, you would wait till the last coat is tacky dry or dry to the touch. Rustoleum drys slow and depends on warm temps to dry faster. Usually 1/2 hour to hour with Rustoleum and 10 minutes with regular auto paint :)
@@LakesideAutobody Awesome. I really appreciate your taking time to answer my question. I'm off to paint my truck, cheap fast and easy like you taught. Cheers!
@@joeycmore Let me know how it goes and don't get discouraged if something goes wrong - there's usually something you can learn from it :)
Enjoyed the video. No B/S and easy to follow.
I appreciate that Ray :)
Nice job! thanks for sharing. How long were the intervals between each coat?
Depends on the temp in the garage but 1/2-1 hour. Rustoleum dries slow. Basically if the last coat is dry to touch or tacky, you're good :)
Question for ya...I pulled my Monte's engine...now I am grinding and sanding and everything else to my engine compartment. Can I use my regular primer, a few coats, then regular base and clear? Gloss black is the result I'm looking for. Appreciate ya man.
Absolutely. What year Monte?
Rustoleum used to be cheap it’s now 28$ a quart. Without hardener or acetone so it doesn’t make sense to use anymore. I’m better of with a single stage. But it’s more problematic. Thanks for the upload.
You're right - better to just buy a gallon kit of TCP Global Restoration shop or something similar - better shine and more durable :)
the definition of a wet coat....
I am assuming the same paint /thinner ratio... same air pressure...only more paint applied per square inch..in other words, closer or more passes or slower travel speed or all of the above?
Yes - wet to the point of running but.... don't run it :)
@@LakesideAutobodynow your talking real experience!
How well does this type of paint hold up? say 2 years later?
If you use hardener in the paint, I think it would hold up quite well. Rustoleum holds up pretty well if you buff it every once in a while like lacquer but not as well as more expensive automotive paints.
Throw 1 part Majik hardener in there while yer at it. It's a little much according to directions, but sure does make a durable paint.
You're right Wayne - thanks for the comment and have a good weekend :)
looks pretty good.
Thanks G :)
The gun you used looked like my old Eclipse a Binks #7 clone which I still own and use when I spray large metallics
I have a clone too - only its a Campbell Hausfeld w/ a 1.7 fluid tip. Works just fine.
@@LakesideAutobody Thank for sharing the tip size 1.7 toe is normally a primer gun 🔫I'll try that out too !! 😀
Thank you for taking the time to make and post this video. Drying time in between coats?
Rustoleum takes some time to dry so on warm days 70+ 1/2 hour between coats - when cold much longer. If the last coat is dry or at least tacky, you're ready for another :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you for the quick response
Thank you for making simple easy to understand videos! Can you give the approximate time between coats? I tried using Rust oleum before and it took hours to tack up. Does the acetone make it quicker between coats? Thanks again!
Acetone does help but Rustoleum likes warm temps - over 70 is best. That being said - wait till the last coat is dry or tacky. It could take 1/2 hour to hour sometimes. Use a hardener by MAJIC of similar - it will really make a difference for you.
Thanks, very good information. My temps were in the 50-60 range so probably where my issue of drying was. Your videos are the best on TH-cam. Too bad I didn't see them before I made all the mistakes. I also very much appreciate that you don't have all the loud obnoxious irritating music in yours. Thanks again.
Howdy thanks for the video. Just wondering air psi and time between coats.
I'm usually at around 25 psi on every type of paint. For rustoleum you have to wait a good 1/2 hour or more. When it gets tacky dry, you're ready for another coat. Rustoleum runs pretty easy on vertical panels so go lightly at first.
This is a pretty cool idea.
I have a 84 K10 that needs paint and what you were able to achieve is plenty good for my purpose. I've got two questions; what is the timing between the coats, and would this work with flat finish paint? Thank you!
Yes it would work fine with the satin or flat rustoleum - here's a video on that - th-cam.com/video/TO39VTcbNMo/w-d-xo.html Time between coats depends on the temperature you are painting in. Hot weather 70+ about 1/2 between coats. Colder temps and you'll need and hour - rustoleum dries pretty slow. Basically when any spray paint is dry or tacky dry you're ready for another coat. You just don't want to throw another coat over wet paint as it will likely run.
Excellent job, very nice.
Thanks Douglas :)
Cheap tools & materials represent the single biggest mistake DIYers make when approaching these types of projects. Remember tools are NOT an expense ~ they are an investment that you make in order to achieve superior results. They can then be sold for 85-90% of their value once the job is done and in the end it will cost less than renting. These 2 budget HVLP Systems are the best hold their value: 1st choice: Fuji 2202 Semi-PRO 2 (2203 gravity version) & 2nd choice: Earlex HV5500.
With repect, Binks, DeVilbiss, Sata, and Sharpe are examples of quality spray guns for automotive use. Many of the copies of these great guns work very well too for a fraction of the cost. I used a DeVilbiss copy for years in a professional shop and it sprayed real nice. Jerry
Thank you for making this video, could you please tell me how long you waited between each coat?
About 1/2 hour @ around 70 degrees F. A good rule of thumb with any paint is when it gets sticky or tacky dry you can go ahead with the next coat. :)
@@LakesideAutobody Many thanks ☺
@@JohnSmith-ki2eq You're welcome :)
That came out nice. Thanks for the information....👍👍👍
Thanks - have a great week :)
Wouldn’t necessarily recommend it for car bodies but great for doing a chassis. All in all, good video and good job.
Tractor supply has tractor enamel fairly cheap as well.
Thanks for the tip :)
How would you go about mixing it if you were going to roll it on with a foam roller? By the way nice videos. This is an awesome channel.
Thanks FF - Right out of the can it can be rolled but might be a bit on the thick side so you can thin it just a bit with paint thinner, mineral spirits or acetone. Just thin it till you're happy how it looks :)
great tutorial but what about spray tip size and air pressure? a must to know.
You're right - Air pressure 25 psi at the gun and tip size is 1.7 mm. You can spray this paint with any gun really from 1.4 - 1.8 mm or even outside of those parameters
Nice. But what about the sun damage? Is there a uv clear protectant that can be sprayed over it? Does it need a hardener?
A hardener works very well with it. www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/majic-catalyst-hardener-clear-half-1-2-pint-1177127?store=632&cid=Shopping-Google-Organic_Feed-Product-1177127&cid= If you want a paint that holds up a bit better in the sun try TCP Global's Restoration Shop paint - cheap and works very well - th-cam.com/video/aJHa1grz5Fs/w-d-xo.html
i Fn hated my compressor kickin on all the time when i was tryin to run things like the die grinder so i simply plugged another air compressor into the manifold of the other one, now iv got more capacity And "twice" as much cfm its SOO nice, n so simple i was pissed when i didnt think of it before lol
Good idea Travis - thanks for your input :)
How long did you wait between coats? What temperature is your shop? What pressure were you spraying with that old siphon feed gun?
With Rustoleum it depends on the temp of the shop. 1/2 hour if warm hours if cold. Basically wait till the last coat is dry or at least tacky dry. It was about 70 degrees, pressure ~ 25psi, gun has a 1.7mm tip (campbell hausfeld - binks model 7 copy)
Nice job! How many times between coats? Thanks for the help
Good question. It was hot that day - like 90 - so 5-10 minutes. Usually it's 10 minutes between coats of base then wait 1/2 hour to an hour to clear it :)
@@LakesideAutobody great thank you :-)
How much paint did you use for that?
How much would you expect to use for a truck before thinning?
Less than a gallon.
i use rustoleum on some out side furniture and it oxidized and faded in one year from the sun so i don't think it will last on a car and by using it mite f up the next paint job if not stripped off the only way it would last if clear coat it with mixed in is hardener
If you use hardener with the paint it will hold up much better. Valspar 4625 Enamel Hardener
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
You're welcome - thanks for checking it out :)
Great video! How long between coats?
Wait till the last coat is dry or tacky/dry. Usually 1/2 hour or more for RUSTOLEUM - it dries sort of slow :)
@@LakesideAutobody thank you
Thank you for the video... I plan on painting an old suburban i have... Already white and im fixing some rust repair now an wanting to repaint white... The old girl is pretty far down on the budget list for the 4 vehicles i have. She is just my winter, fishing ride. Still love her and going to do best job i can, just on a budget. I hear people talk about hardner... What hardner can be used?
I heard folks talk about that too. I like hardener - definitely shines better, dries faster, and holds up better. I would make sure it is made for the exact paint you are using though. I get the budget thing! If you have any ?s just ask - Jerry
For oil based enamel (like rustoleum) I've had good luck with Valspar enamel hardener
@3G Craftsman 3 parts paint 1 part paint thinner and as for the hardener, the whole can is for one gallon of paint so i just do the math according to how much paint in using
I'm adding a hardener, super wet, can I do 4 paint, 3 acetone, 1 hardener? Also, painting in my backyard, no shade, getting over 90° now. Will light coat make Tiger stripes? Rust-Oleum gloss white, over sanded original white paint. Plan on doing in stages, took off bumper covers, all trim, wish me luck!
howd it go
Good luck - You can't get tiger stripes with solid color paints - only metallic paint. Have fun - Jerry