Surprise surprise, even as cheap as these guns are, if cleaned well they hold up. I’ve had mine for about three years now it still lays down paint decently. I use it for stuff like fence posts,garage doors and cheap cars I buy to flip. Although I haven’t flipped anything with a rustoleum / krylon / Majic/ valspar paint job yet so I’m gonna check that out.
Couple of observations: The first view you had was the best, because we could see the texture of the paint and how it looked after drying. And that first tack coat, it flowed out and laid down very nicely. Kind of reminds me of way back in the day, my first experience with Glasurit....they told me to paint it on to where it looked like a golf ball and it'd flow out. Was hard to believe as I was used to trying to put it on as wet as possible without running it, but darn if it didn't do just what they said. This painted seemed similar. Good video As far as the HF paint gun...for 10 bucks, the heck with replacement parts. Use it until it breaks or stops working right and get another one. We used to buy cheap guns at my Dad's old shop in the siphon gun days, and they sprayed just as good as a nice Devilbliss or Binks....to start with. But they cost a lot less, so you just made them a primer gun and got a new one when they weren't doing just right anymore.
You're right about that. I had a Devilbiss JGA copy for years and it sprayed great. I just don't like throwing stuff out when it just needs one tiny part.
I appreciate this format. Very straight to the point explains the mixtures and how to adjust for your situation and then technique to laying it down. 20 minute video just taught me more than i have learned all day watching painting videos lol. Gonna have to check out more of your stuff. This is a format that works for me to learn!
Tack Coat! wow, that's what I was doing wrong. I kept trying to lay it on too thick early on, and kept getting runs. Your tack coat technique is freaking perfect, thanks man!
@@LakesideAutobody Yup, found that out the hard way, thanks. I'm using the Central Pneumatic, Item #:94572., seems to work well enough, certainly has nice atomization and decent pattern. But I'm just shooting Rustoleum on cabinets and shop equipment, and I'll use this same gun for primer on my car project. I'll probably take the body over to a pro for the final color coat though, I don't think my skills are good enough, nor is my shop clean enough for a final color coat.
@@LakesideAutobody I've got a 76 Porsche 912 (poor man's 911). Long story, but doing a resto-mod build, where I want it to look and feel 100% period correct, want it too look like it *could have* come from the factory, but I'm swapping the guts of a modern engine in. Got a build page here: facebook.com/ArrowBlau
Just wanted to say thanks for this info. I was shooting a vintage camper today with Valspar and your mix ratio and pressure setting was right on the money for me.
I have used the Valspar hardener with alkyd enamel and acetone and it works great. This is the best method for painting old trucks or tractors as long as you can find the color you like. The costs much less than acrylic enamel. Years ago before i knew of the hardener, i would remove vinyl tops and paint the car roofs with Rustoleum.. Had to leave them inside for a few days for the paint to cure, but now with the hardener, the catalyst hardens the paint quicker and the gloss is much better. I enjoy you videos, keep at it. Thanks.
Rustoleum also works just like the Valspar with the hardener. Also, acetone works very good and is faster when you are in a hurry as it dries much quicker and the paint seems to still flow out nicely. Just an FYI, the hardener contains isocyanates. This stuff is bad news for humans as it can affect the central nervous system. A good respirator is a must with any paint, but when using anything with isocyanates in it, it must be N95 rated or better. It also can enter the body through skin and your eyes. The worst part is that it never leaves your body once inside. Our friends at OSHA mandate a full body suit with a pressurized helmet using outside filtered air through a hose attached to it. No, I do not do all that when I spray. I wear a 3M N95 mask, long sleeve shirt or jacket and throw away latex or rubber gloves. I don't cover my eyes, as every set of goggles I have ever tried always get condensate on the lenses in 3 minutes and blocks my vision. Just take your time and be aware of the risks involved. There have been 1 or 2 people that ended up spending a few days in the hospital on their first exposure. At least that's what the internet says and it never lies! Lol Edit: Once you mix the paint, it will harden in approx. 3 to 5 hours so don't mix more than you need or leave it in the gun overnight. If you do? finding parts won't be an issue because a hammer and chisel wont even get it out, Lol
Thanks for the input - I 100% agree. One thing though - I would seriously think about upgrading your respirator to a 3M 07192 Paint Spray Respirator or 07193 w/ vapor cartridges. The 92 is medium and the 93 is large. Thanks again - Jerry
Incredible results with that cheap gun. I see guys using $700 guns and the results are no better than what I see here. Good results appear to certainly more attributable to the painter, not the gun. Awesome 👌
LOL - at $10 (either with the coupons that have come back or pre-pandemic pricing) the price of a new spray gun is about what parts would cost these days. Thank you so much for the video - very useful advice for someone who doesn't know very much at all about spraying anything but a couple rattle cans a year. I'll give it a shot this year with some metal outdoor furniture.
@@JohnnyP400 True, but talk to your local paint guy. Find someone you can work with. I've been working iwth my guy for about 5 years now, wait, no, 12 years now.
Good job. I use this stuff on trailers and tractor implements. One thing I want you to do on an upcoming video. I have heard several people talk about using a "control coat" for their last coat of metallic paint, either Basecoat or single stage. Supposed to make all the metallic lie down and not look mottled. Can you show and explain just how to do this? Thanks, Tom
Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/YT5_i-AsY4E/w-d-xo.html starting at 1 minute and 25 seconds It will explain how to do a control coat aka mist coat or drop coat to even the metallic flakes - I will do a video though just concentrating on the control coat - thanks for the suggestion
Love watching your videos keep up the great work. Once was told you could thin this paint with lacquer thinner and it would dry faster have you tried to do this before?
It actually curdles up I think or reacts in a bad way if I'm not mistaken. I think recently I made that mistake thinking I was thinning it with mineral spirits but accidently used lacquer thinner. I'm glad to hear you like the videos - I appreciate the support JP - Happy Holidays to you and your family :)
No color sanding or buffing - I was pretty impressed with this paint. You're right - you have to thin it or reduce it to your liking 'cause it is thick.
@@LakesideAutobody cheap? 3 ways, buy the flake directly, & 1 is the pixie duster applied over paint, the other is to mix in a intercoat to hold the flake in suspension then clear, or old school, mix it in the clear, then a few coats of clear over without flake. but more expensive for clear costs
I am doing a majic tractor paint from a local farm supply store should I still use the same ratio method you are using or go with the one on the can? Thank you great videos!! 💯
Try the one on the can first. Also use their hardener if they supply it - dries faster, more durable. If it doesn't spray well, then thin it until it sprays nice. Mine is a bit on the thin side but I like it that way - you might like it a bit thicker. Practice on some old coffee cans. Also practice not running it on these cans because I find the oil based paint runs pretty easy. Just my thoughts though - let me know how it goes for you :)
Awesome videos, very informative. This will definitely be a newbie question. Since you recommend a 1/2 hour between coats, do you clean the gun between coats? I’m assuming you don’t need to if spraying urethane with 10 minutes in between each coat. Thanks you.
You never have to clean a gun during a paint job - no matter what you are spraying - even the fastest hardening paint takes over night to gel up in your gun. Good question by the way.
personally (this is just what works for me). I will run some thinner through the gun just to make sure it does not get gummed up. If I am doing a huge job I will even do that between refilling my gun. You dont need to run a whole cup, just put enough in to show at the bottom of the cup.
Just my 2 cents, if you pull the trigger just before the fluid comes out (air only) fir a second or 2. This will clear out the tip some between coats. The rest of the paint in gun is fine for a couple of hours or more. BTW who needs parts for a $10 gun?
would you be able to show how to mix the paint showing the ratio. Have you tried the magic paint from tractor and farm supply they even have clear.Again thanks for the videos will keep watching thanks
Tractor Supply used to sell Valspar and replaced it with Majic. It's a much cheaper paint and takes forever to dry. Ok if you're painting some outdoor implement and just looking for cheap paint.
Your place is on a lakeside?..that's nice....I want to paint my car a matte black and wonder if that valspar paint and hardener is less deadly than Hot Rod black urethane..I will be painting in my yard and cannot afford a suit with fresh air being pumped in
If you get a charcoal respirator you'll be fine. Something like 3M's or even this one: Reusable Half Face Cover, NASUM M201 Face Cover, Paint Face Cover for Painting. You don't need a suit or fresh air - but that's up to you. Valspar is good but if you go with the hardener, you'r in the same position as the urethane. Just spray with a good half face cover, vapor respirator. It's probably more dangerous fertilizing your lawn than spraying a hood flat black w/ urethane and a respirator. Happy Holidays :)
Spray gun part shouldn't be much of an issue considering the price, 1 part and shipping would most likely be more then purchasing a new gun. I really like your videos, you are why I own a pogo stick as well.
@@jimhamtramck2570 I bought 3 of them w/ that same philosophy. They clean up easy enough - I did my wrought iron patio fencing w/ Rustoleum - but in the overall, easier & cheaper to toss 'em when you're done.
I love the spray gun from Harbor freight. I am a mobile body man and that’s all I use. It’s a great gun and I make a lot of money with it. You usually get about 10 jobs maybe 12 jobs out of it and then you gotta buy another one but at 10 bucks who cares
Hello, I liked your video. It gave me a lot of good info. Off question though, Do you happen to have 2 quarts of that Valspar 4432-01 that you may not use and want to sell?
Nice job. Seen some other reviews of this gun...the big question is CFM VS PSI..??? This gun is rated a 6 CFM . You mention psi...What matter more or both CFM or PSI..? GREAT CHANNEL.
The CFM is how much air it consumes if using it constantly (never letting off on the air). PSI is the pressure you use when you spray paint something (at the gun) - I'm usually around somewhere between 20-30 psi. So if you turn the pressure up at the gun your going to use more air from your compressor. For example, my compressor puts out around 7.2 cfm at 40 psi - that mean if I can use a tool constantly if it requires no more than 40 psi (pounds per square inch) AND 7.2 CFM (cubic feet of air per minute) I do my best to try and explain this in a video :)
I would wet sand the paint first because I suspect the clear is urethane would no bond to oil based enamel w/o sanding first. I would let valspar harden for some time too - I'm not sure how long it takes to fully cure. I know there's some videos on this topic on youtube - they might have a better answer - hope that helps - Jerry
Did you think 15 minutes between coats was enough? It was probably pretty wet still. By the way, all the information I could find on the HF gun said to use 40-50 psi at the gun..... I used 40 psi on a trial and it seemed to work great.
Rustoleum dries faster if it is warm out and super long if it's cold. As a rule of thumb with any paint - just wait till it is tacky dry or dry then recoat. As for your gun - it really doesn't make a huge difference what the air pressure is at the gun - as long as you like how it's spraying and you're not annoying the neighbors with too much overspray 🥴
Really enjoy all of your videos. What's your opinion on the purple gun for primer as is? I did see a video of someone drilling out the purple gun for primer. Would you try that? As far as spare parts, for 10 bucks, toss it and get another. Anyway, thanks for sharing your knowledge and posting.
I took a #50 drill bit and drilled the nozzle opening on my HF gun...took it from a 1.4 to about a 1.8 tip. Sprayed thinned primer just fine, and also doesn't leak when you let off the trigger.
Your use of a tack coat has prompted me to do more research. I don’t share your concern about replacement parts for such an inexpensive spray gun. At $10 (now $16) it is a throw away commodity in my opinion. How well does that purple gun lay down clear coat?
The purple gun is great for everything really. It sprays primer, paint and clear just fine. Great throw away gun. Some guys will say a tack coat causes orange peel but trust me... it's not true. As long as your last coat is good and wet you'll be fine. BTW there's always going to be a bit of orange peel. A lot of videos you see on YT, are folks spraying flat surfaces and that's easy to get no orange peel as you can really lay it on. Do that on a vertical panel and you'll likely have some runs :)
Not so much - but..... I'm thinking it may make a good video if it worked. I'm not sure if it would work or not - never tried it but I do have one and I sprayed a shed with grey satin metal paint - it looks really nice :)
I have actually but only to paint a shed with outdoor house paint. It works great - still have it but not sure how well it would work with auto paint :)
Great video! I have painted bike frames with base and clear but it is $$. I was thinking about trying single stage urethane. What is the difference between that and your video? Thanks!
Single stage urethane is going to be a better overall paint - period - harder, shinier, less orange peel, more durable, faster dry time. That said, I was real impressed with the way this paint came out - real shiny, hard, dried fast. Maybe do a test - the price is better for sure:)
@@tomnorton8218 I use old fashioned lacquer primer for everything. Blocking, finish primer , etc. It's cheap, you can mix it thick or thin, doesn't harden in the cup, drys fast, sands easy, works well despite what you hear on the internet - that's all they had till just recently.
@@LakesideAutobody Another question if I may. When using single stage urethane how long is the drying time before the item can be used? Would putting it in a heated box help? Thanks!
Perfect! Thank you . Just what I was looking for. I used Acetone with my Rustoleum rusty primer. I assume I can spray Naphtha over acetone. I also have a purple gun. Works fine. But will be using a Finnishline 3 . Curious as to what size tip you recommend with that mixer. I'm spraying a utility trailer frame. Again Thanks.
@@LakesideAutobody Just an FYI, Acetone is the quickest drying, Naptha isn't quite as fast, and Mineral Spirits is the slowest. Mineral Spirits can be a little oily (probably the cheap stuff I have bought). I used Naptha with Zynolyte Epoxy enamel back in the '80's when I had an appliance business and I repainted used appliances that I would sell. The speed of drying might be a consideration depending on the temperature that day.
@@LakesideAutobody Naptha was better than mineral spirits, but I don't remember how Naptha compared with Acetone. If I remember right, they were about the same, but I could be mistaken. afterall it was about 40 years ago. Might be good for a video. Compare all three side by side.
People talk crap about those cheap purple guns. But the first few times you use them they work great. Not as good as an expensive gun. But I can buy 10 of them. Use them each a few times. Throw one away, grab another. I still get good results and I'm still not spending anything near what I would buying an expensive name brand gun. A good painter can paint with any gun. A great painter can paint with a cheap gun and make it look like an expensive one. Just like a good driver can do good in a race car. But a great driver can pass them in a piece of junk
Where do you get the Valspar tractor paint? Local Farm and Fleet and Tractor Supply used to carry it, but no longer. I had heard that Valspar discontinued the tractor paint, and can't find it on their website.
@@LakesideAutobody Where do you get it online? Thieson's farm supply has a tractor paint brand is "van Sickle", but they don't have the hardener, I can get the hardener online tho. Have you ever used this brand before?
@@kermitfrog1897 I've never used that brand before but I think all that implement paint is similar. I bought the hardener on Amazon but it was a while ago - it's not there anymore :)
Rustoleum and Krylon have picked up the Tractor and Implement paint. I’ve used the Rustoleum and it’s very good. Stay away from the Magic brand from Tractor Supply (unless you’re just painting a fence or wheelbarrow) it’s just too hard to work with due to the long curing time it has.
Yes but I keep it real simple. Here's a couple vids that may help you make a decision. th-cam.com/video/CSGAgAyeInA/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/blE9tKKPI20/w-d-xo.html Both dryers work great for what you need it for :)
With your help I just got done with a month long'ish project on my Jeep. Using a 90 amp HF flux core welder put in 22 patch panels, both sides inner/outer rocker panels, both rear quarter panels, and did body work on one of the front quarter panels... Your videos helped tremendously! Now I want to paint it flat black.. I have a hvlp sprayer. Was thinking about using the rust-oleum professional oil based. What activator/hardener should I use, can't seem to find a rust-oleum one? Can I use krylon or valspar hardener with rust-oleum? What would you recommend? Thanks!
Yes - you can use that hardener. Check out this video as it may help you decide on the paint to use: th-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/w-d-xo.html or this one: th-cam.com/video/LxHLDwgWMho/w-d-xo.html - Let me know how your project goes - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry. Just got done painting, didn't turn out too bad. My spray gun didn't like horizontal surfaces, so got some streaking.. but good enough. How long should I wait before driving?
@@Gareth96v1 If the paint had hardener in it, you can unmask it and drive it the next day. I'd give it a day in the hot sun though to be safe. Nice job! Have a good weekend - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks again.. one more question.. I painted (spray) a stencil on the lift gate, what do you think would be best to seal the edges with? I can cover the whole stencil too.. Just don't want it flaking up. It's a duck...
@@Gareth96v1 If you sprayed it with good paint and prepared the surface correctly you should be OK just leaving it. If not you can spray the whole lift gate with good quality automotive 2K clear. Just tape it off, scuff the whole panel with red scotch brite pad and spray. You really can't just seal the edges as you'll have dry over spray to deal with. Unless you seal the edges with a small brush and some 2K clear. Let me know what you decide to do - curious - good project :)
General question on technique- When painting an object such as this tailgate are you "triggering"? Do you keep paint and air flowing through each pass, release all the way to shut both off, or just release the color, maintain air, and pull the rest of the way when starting the next stroke? As new painter I find myself fully releasing, starting the air as I approach the edge to balance pressure, and fully pulling just before getting to part. Good or bad?
Yes just release the color - air is always on when painting. The reason is probably dust control and anti spitting. Sometimes if you stop altogether guns can "spit" a bit of paint. That's my thinking anyway on why you always have the air going when painting. You'll totally get used to it once you start - it will just be second nature after some time. Jerry
All paint and/or clear coat has to be prepared by scuffing it with this: www.amazon.com/3M-03193-Paint-Body-Scuff/dp/B002NEWYNW or DA sanding it with 220 or finer. Hope that answers your ? - if not ask me again :)
@@LakesideAutobody let's say it's been sanded and scuffed already and it sat around in my garage for a week so it's got a little dust on it and I have touched the surface a few times with sweaty hands. What liquid would I wipe it with before I put on my next coat of paint or clearcoat?
Yes you will need a primer coat if it's down to bare metal. If not down to bare metal - no need for primer. Just sand/scuff and paint. I don't think an electric sprayer will work very well with auto paint or tractor paint. If you do try it, let me know if it works - curious :)
Yes - I will focus on doing that when I mix the paint. For now though 4 to 3 to 1/4 can be measured out by marking how much paint you want to mix up on a paint stick. Then divide that distance into 8 equal parts. Now - 4 of those marks will be paint, 3 will be thinner and 1/4 of one of those marks will be hardener (basically a little bit of the last space will be hardener) Hope that helps for now :)
On the purple gun? It's not the most quality gun for sure but mine worked OK out of the box - had to tighten up a few things though and make some adjustments
@@LakesideAutobody The older purple guns worked great and I have always taken them apart and cleaned them. Took the new one back and got another, it did the same thing, they gave me a store credit on the second return.
@@klogjo Harbor Freight has let me down the last few times I've gone - They are often out of stock on the item I went there for. Also you can hardly use the 20% off coupon on anything anymore.
I can't da sand the whole car with out letting it catch up. I do one panel at a time, take a break let the compressor catch up - maybe change the sanding disc, etc. - then continue. It keeps up spraying a whole car though and everything else. I could use a larger compressor but do I really need it - no. Hope that helps.
If you are talking about this: www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html - yes they work well. If there is not much humidity you can get away w/o using one.
Can I use a different hardener ? I didn't see ANY Valspar. I bought Magic brand. Does it make any difference and if so what do you recommend as an alternative to the Valspar hardener / Thanks
I always try to use the hardener that goes with the paint as a rule of thumb - but you could try another enamel hardener - it may work just fine. You can also get that Valspar hardener on ebay or amazon
After using oil based enamel a couple of times, I would wait a little longer between coats (till it gets tacky). Real auto paint I wait 10-15 minutes between coats - rustoleum and valspar oil based enamel takes longer to dry - I think more like 1/2 hour - basically when it gets a little sticky or tacky.
Sears/Craftsman model# 106.173840 (made by C.H.) - I like the old oil filled compressors made by C.H. or Devilbiss - they're quiet, you can get parts and they last forever.
Between the Naptha, acetone and min spirits, which would be best for gloss? Also, I am doing a project like this and will be adding some stripes, with that being said, would the acetone dry too quickly to unmask the stripes without the edges pulling up? Your thoughts greatly appreciated. Thanks
You will be fine using the acetone. I would think that the acetone would work best for shine as it would dry quicker and have less chance of dust, bugs etc. I don't think anyone would make for a better shine actually though just due to their chemical makeup. Hope that helps - be careful this type of paint runs easily so practice first on an old coffee can or something. Jerry
I tried the harbor freight gun, it even sucked for sealer! Lol ! Sata isnt the best but at least it gives a great finish . Then again the low capacity of the harbor freight could be the nozzle size.
You could pull the air cap and the nozzle if you want and clean them - it can't hurt. Never have I seen anyone in a body shop clean their guns between coats though. Again maybe if it was spaying weird you might remove the air cap and clean the fluid tip a bit and the cap - put it back together and it would spray nice. That's the norm.
Probably if crap is going to come out of the gun it will happen when you first spray so I got in the habit of starting low and hidden. Also you can quickly get used to how the gun is spraying at that exact moment (compressor sometimes can't keep up) It doesn't make a dif though so start where you feel comfortable top or bottom - as long as the end result is "wet"
Re: Some Valspar Tractor and Implement Paint I just ordered; ... I am wondering if the Majic (brand name) hardner from my nearby Tractor Supply (easy option) would be compatible? or if RUST-OLEUM 7769-402 Professional Rusty Metal Primer would be an ok choice for my Tractor update. ... Learning more all the time over here :+)
For any type of paint the rule of thumb is wait till it gets tacky - next coat. I'm not sure what type of clear would stick for lack of better terms. I have seen videos on it though.
With hardener on a warm day 70+ it drys to touch in about 1-2 hours. I think you could wash the car, and drive it after 24 hours. I would wait at least 1/2 hour between coats or until it is tacky. It does dry slower than "real" auto paint but I was real happy with the shine and hardness with the use of hardener.
They don't carry this paint anywhere anymore, you were still able to get it on Amazon and Ebay up until a couple months ago. Looked for some today and its all gone.
Yes you can click code over rustoli and I've already done it saying I've already done it same as a automotive paint it will hold it it will hold up for years UV Protection from the sun can give you an awesome shine the shine plus you can use pigment pearls that you can buy pearls that you can buy on the Internet very cheap to mix with your club if you want to add it in split screen clear if you want to add an effect to the paint job If you want to know more let me know I can shoot I can show you some videos of what I've done
Supposedly you can use acetone, mineral spirits, and or paint thinner (not lacquer thinner). I suppose acetone dries the fastest. Thanks for the input :)
The 'spare parts' for the Harbor Freight gun is...a new gun.
True true
I came here to make the same comment. It's a throw away gun. It works good, but if you forget to clean it. Throw it out.
Surprise surprise, even as cheap as these guns are, if cleaned well they hold up. I’ve had mine for about three years now it still lays down paint decently. I use it for stuff like fence posts,garage doors and cheap cars I buy to flip. Although I haven’t flipped anything with a rustoleum / krylon / Majic/ valspar paint job yet so I’m gonna check that out.
@Ryker Cayden Good plan - follow up a non sequitar marketing message with an instant testimonial from a "random" youtuber
I drilled my gun out and use it for jell coat for fiberglass it works amazing
Couple of observations:
The first view you had was the best, because we could see the texture of the paint and how it looked after drying.
And that first tack coat, it flowed out and laid down very nicely. Kind of reminds me of way back in the day, my first experience with Glasurit....they told me to paint it on to where it looked like a golf ball and it'd flow out. Was hard to believe as I was used to trying to put it on as wet as possible without running it, but darn if it didn't do just what they said.
This painted seemed similar. Good video
As far as the HF paint gun...for 10 bucks, the heck with replacement parts. Use it until it breaks or stops working right and get another one.
We used to buy cheap guns at my Dad's old shop in the siphon gun days, and they sprayed just as good as a nice Devilbliss or Binks....to start with. But they cost a lot less, so you just made them a primer gun and got a new one when they weren't doing just right anymore.
You're right about that. I had a Devilbiss JGA copy for years and it sprayed great. I just don't like throwing stuff out when it just needs one tiny part.
I appreciate this format. Very straight to the point explains the mixtures and how to adjust for your situation and then technique to laying it down. 20 minute video just taught me more than i have learned all day watching painting videos lol. Gonna have to check out more of your stuff. This is a format that works for me to learn!
I'm glad to hear it my friend - makes my day :)
I have both the regular harbor freight gun and the touch up gun. Both paint guns work perfect and never had a problem with them.
They do work well - thanks for the comment :)
Tack Coat! wow, that's what I was doing wrong. I kept trying to lay it on too thick early on, and kept getting runs. Your tack coat technique is freaking perfect, thanks man!
Yeah if you spray thick early your done :)
@@LakesideAutobody Yup, found that out the hard way, thanks. I'm using the Central Pneumatic, Item #:94572., seems to work well enough, certainly has nice atomization and decent pattern. But I'm just shooting Rustoleum on cabinets and shop equipment, and I'll use this same gun for primer on my car project. I'll probably take the body over to a pro for the final color coat though, I don't think my skills are good enough, nor is my shop clean enough for a final color coat.
@@AndySomogyi Cool - what kind of car are you working on?
@@LakesideAutobody I've got a 76 Porsche 912 (poor man's 911). Long story, but doing a resto-mod build, where I want it to look and feel 100% period correct, want it too look like it *could have* come from the factory, but I'm swapping the guts of a modern engine in. Got a build page here:
facebook.com/ArrowBlau
@@AndySomogyi Beautiful car - looks like a lot of fun.... working on it and driving
Just wanted to say thanks for this info. I was shooting a vintage camper today with Valspar and your mix ratio and pressure setting was right on the money for me.
I'm glad to hear it J.M - have fun camping in it :)
I have to say thanks for this mix ratio.my car came out awesome
I have used the Valspar hardener with alkyd enamel and acetone and it works great. This is the best method for painting old trucks or tractors as long as you can find the color you like. The costs much less than acrylic enamel. Years ago before i knew of the hardener, i would remove vinyl tops and paint the car roofs with Rustoleum.. Had to leave them inside for a few days for the paint to cure, but now with the hardener, the catalyst hardens the paint quicker and the gloss is much better.
I enjoy you videos, keep at it. Thanks.
Chad Fortman does the hardener contain isocyanate or methyl isocyanate ?
Rustoleum also works just like the Valspar with the hardener. Also, acetone works very good and is faster when you are in a hurry as it dries much quicker and the paint seems to still flow out nicely. Just an FYI, the hardener contains isocyanates. This stuff is bad news for humans as it can affect the central nervous system. A good respirator is a must with any paint, but when using anything with isocyanates in it, it must be N95 rated or better.
It also can enter the body through skin and your eyes. The worst part is that it never leaves your body once inside. Our friends at OSHA mandate a full body suit with a pressurized helmet using outside filtered air through a hose attached to it.
No, I do not do all that when I spray. I wear a 3M N95 mask, long sleeve shirt or jacket and throw away latex or rubber gloves. I don't cover my eyes, as every set of goggles I have ever tried always get condensate on the lenses in 3 minutes and blocks my vision. Just take your time and be aware of the risks involved. There have been 1 or 2 people that ended up spending a few days in the hospital on their first exposure. At least that's what the internet says and it never lies! Lol
Edit: Once you mix the paint, it will harden in approx. 3 to 5 hours so don't mix more than you need or leave it in the gun overnight. If you do? finding parts won't be an issue because a hammer and chisel wont even get it out, Lol
Thanks for the input - I 100% agree. One thing though - I would seriously think about upgrading your respirator to a 3M 07192 Paint Spray Respirator or 07193 w/ vapor cartridges. The 92 is medium and the 93 is large. Thanks again - Jerry
Looks great! I've picked up a lot of good tips from watching your videos, thank you for your efforts in making them!!
You're welcome Austin - have a good weekend :)
Thanks for the review of the Harbor freight spray gun. I've been looking at it to spray an old car and it worth a chance at less than $10
You're welcome. I had to tighten a few things up but it works fine now. Good luck and have fun painting the old car:)
Neiko makes a nice gun. Around 35 bucks on Amazon. Go with that first. Comes with a regulator too
This was the video I was looking for (a professional painter spraying tractor paint). Haven’t decided if I’m going this route but it’s promising
Glad you liked it John 👍
you are an excellent teacher
I appreciate that Hapaboy - have a good weekend :)
Ty sir very educational video Thupms up great paint job
Thanks ✌
Incredible results with that cheap gun. I see guys using $700 guns and the results are no better than what I see here. Good results appear to certainly more attributable to the painter, not the gun. Awesome 👌
I was thinking it was all blotchy but the. I realized it was reflections. Nice job
Thanks - happy TG :)
That last one laid down real nice, it was plain to see it as it went on. Cheers
The mixture ratio is really up to you - if you can spray it thicker w/o orange peel etc. That's the mix ration that worked for that situation.
Appreciated this clip as I just ordered Valspar for a tractor paint job. Thanks :+)
You're welcome - glad you enjoyed it.
I love this. I really, really love this! Love to see spray painting.
Thanks Dan - I love your comment - great to hear :)
LOL - at $10 (either with the coupons that have come back or pre-pandemic pricing) the price of a new spray gun is about what parts would cost these days. Thank you so much for the video - very useful advice for someone who doesn't know very much at all about spraying anything but a couple rattle cans a year. I'll give it a shot this year with some metal outdoor furniture.
You'll like this gun - it's a great value and like you said it's almost throwaway :)
Bout to do this to my 2 tone Ford with valspars anti rust armor.
Nice job going to have to try it,i've only done rustoleum.Thanks
You're welcome.
10 bucks! Man I'm buying that gun a compressor and that hardener for my rustoleum high gloss black, can't wait great job!!!!
It really does harden up nice. Glad it inspired you :)
@@LakesideAutobody I don't need clearcoat correct?
@@JohnnyP400 True, but talk to your local paint guy. Find someone you can work with. I've been working iwth my guy for about 5 years now, wait, no, 12 years now.
Looks good.
Thanks Robert. You have a cool name - sounds like a principal or like "Robert C Hall High School" :)
Thank you for this very awesome educational videos on how to paint.
You're welcome - glad you liked it.
Good job. I use this stuff on trailers and tractor implements. One thing I want you to do on an upcoming video. I have heard several people talk about using a "control coat" for their last coat of metallic paint, either Basecoat or single stage. Supposed to make all the metallic lie down and not look mottled. Can you show and explain just how to do this? Thanks, Tom
Watch this video: th-cam.com/video/YT5_i-AsY4E/w-d-xo.html starting at 1 minute and 25 seconds It will explain how to do a control coat aka mist coat or drop coat to even the metallic flakes - I will do a video though just concentrating on the control coat - thanks for the suggestion
Looks professional! Like it!
Thanks, great info for us do it at home guys.
I just bought a $40 gun to use for primer. Should be testing it out in a few weeks.
Let me know what it is and how it works :)
A larger air hose and high flow fittings would help with that hvlp gun
Thanks for the tip Kevin :)
I paint and u do spray good. Good job
Thanks 👍 - Happy New Year!
Great video! I subscribed
Thanks N Martin - Happy New Year :)
Excellent
Thanks SC - enjoy the weekend :)
great videos thanks for sharing
You're welcome - have a good weekend :)
For $10 it did great, good video
Love watching your videos keep up the great work. Once was told you could thin this paint with lacquer thinner and it would dry faster have you tried to do this before?
It actually curdles up I think or reacts in a bad way if I'm not mistaken. I think recently I made that mistake thinking I was thinning it with mineral spirits but accidently used lacquer thinner. I'm glad to hear you like the videos - I appreciate the support JP - Happy Holidays to you and your family :)
It’s coming out a little thick, maybe needs to be a tad thinner? Did it require color sanding and Buffing to smooth out the orange peel?
No color sanding or buffing - I was pretty impressed with this paint. You're right - you have to thin it or reduce it to your liking 'cause it is thick.
Nice video! I would love to see your economical metalic car paint job in the next video
Thanks - trying to come up with economical metallic paint is the problem but I'll do some research - maybe Paintforcars.com
@@LakesideAutobody cheap? 3 ways, buy the flake directly, & 1 is the pixie duster applied over paint, the other is to mix in a intercoat to hold the flake in suspension then clear, or old school, mix it in the clear, then a few coats of clear over without flake. but more expensive for clear costs
I am doing a majic tractor paint from a local farm supply store should I still use the same ratio method you are using or go with the one on the can? Thank you great videos!! 💯
Try the one on the can first. Also use their hardener if they supply it - dries faster, more durable. If it doesn't spray well, then thin it until it sprays nice. Mine is a bit on the thin side but I like it that way - you might like it a bit thicker. Practice on some old coffee cans. Also practice not running it on these cans because I find the oil based paint runs pretty easy. Just my thoughts though - let me know how it goes for you :)
Awesome videos, very informative. This will definitely be a newbie question. Since you recommend a 1/2 hour between coats, do you clean the gun between coats? I’m assuming you don’t need to if spraying urethane with 10 minutes in between each coat. Thanks you.
You never have to clean a gun during a paint job - no matter what you are spraying - even the fastest hardening paint takes over night to gel up in your gun. Good question by the way.
personally (this is just what works for me). I will run some thinner through the gun just to make sure it does not get gummed up. If I am doing a huge job I will even do that between refilling my gun. You dont need to run a whole cup, just put enough in to show at the bottom of the cup.
Just my 2 cents, if you pull the trigger just before the fluid comes out (air only) fir a second or 2. This will clear out the tip some between coats. The rest of the paint in gun is fine for a couple of hours or more. BTW who needs parts for a $10 gun?
perfect video, just what i was looking for Thanks
You're welcome
would you be able to show how to mix the paint showing the ratio. Have you tried the magic paint from tractor and farm supply they even have clear.Again thanks for the videos will keep watching thanks
Yes - I'll get some of the magic paint from Tractor Supply and do a vid showing how to mix the paint - thanks for the suggestion
@@LakesideAutobody 24 hours betweeen coats lol, I wasn't impressed.
awesome thanks looking forward to that
Tractor Supply used to sell Valspar and replaced it with Majic. It's a much cheaper paint and takes forever to dry. Ok if you're painting some outdoor implement and just looking for cheap paint.
It’s soy bean oil based, 24 hours between coats 🧥🧥🧥🧥🧥😀😀😀😀😀
Your place is on a lakeside?..that's nice....I want to paint my car a matte black and wonder if that valspar paint and hardener is less deadly than Hot Rod black urethane..I will be painting in my yard and cannot afford a suit with fresh air being pumped in
If you get a charcoal respirator you'll be fine. Something like 3M's or even this one: Reusable Half Face Cover, NASUM M201 Face Cover, Paint Face Cover for Painting. You don't need a suit or fresh air - but that's up to you. Valspar is good but if you go with the hardener, you'r in the same position as the urethane. Just spray with a good half face cover, vapor respirator. It's probably more dangerous fertilizing your lawn than spraying a hood flat black w/ urethane and a respirator. Happy Holidays :)
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks for the information
Spray gun part shouldn't be much of an issue considering the price, 1 part and shipping would most likely be more then purchasing a new gun.
I really like your videos, you are why I own a pogo stick as well.
That's great to hear Robert - thanks for the support and I'm sure you'll find a ton of uses for the pogo stick :)
Nice job for cheap paint and gun. Do you prefer the surface vertical to flat?
Flat is always a bit easier because you don't have to worry about runs.
Not bad👍
Less than $10 for the spray gun and your worried about buying parts for it........Seriously? LOL
Parts may cost $20.00, who knows
For $10 I wouldn't even bother cleaning the gun.....just buy another one.
@@jimhamtramck2570 Jos Compo, Caniff
@@jimhamtramck2570 lmao 😂😂😂 Why waste $5 worth of Paint thinner?
@@jimhamtramck2570 I bought 3 of them w/ that same philosophy. They clean up easy enough - I did my wrought iron patio fencing w/ Rustoleum - but in the overall, easier & cheaper to toss 'em when you're done.
I love the spray gun from Harbor freight. I am a mobile body man and that’s all I use. It’s a great gun and I make a lot of money with it. You usually get about 10 jobs maybe 12 jobs out of it and then you gotta buy another one but at 10 bucks who cares
👍😊✌
Hello, I liked your video. It gave me a lot of good info. Off question though, Do you happen to have 2 quarts of that Valspar 4432-01 that you may not use and want to sell?
I don't but Rustoleum makes an implement paint and you can find it at Tractor Supply chain stores.
Come on worrying about replacement parts for a $10 buck spray gun. Now I thought I was cheap but my hat is off to you.
When I replace wipers on my truck, I only replace 1 - the drivers side. Then that old driver's side wiper goes to the passenger side :)
Nice job. Seen some other reviews of this gun...the big question is CFM VS PSI..??? This gun is rated a 6 CFM . You mention psi...What matter more or both CFM or PSI..? GREAT CHANNEL.
The CFM is how much air it consumes if using it constantly (never letting off on the air). PSI is the pressure you use when you spray paint something (at the gun) - I'm usually around somewhere between 20-30 psi. So if you turn the pressure up at the gun your going to use more air from your compressor. For example, my compressor puts out around 7.2 cfm at 40 psi - that mean if I can use a tool constantly if it requires no more than 40 psi (pounds per square inch) AND 7.2 CFM (cubic feet of air per minute) I do my best to try and explain this in a video :)
Great video exactly what my plans for my car can you shoot clear coat on top of the paint and do I have to wet sand the paint first
I would wet sand the paint first because I suspect the clear is urethane would no bond to oil based enamel w/o sanding first. I would let valspar harden for some time too - I'm not sure how long it takes to fully cure. I know there's some videos on this topic on youtube - they might have a better answer - hope that helps - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks
10$ for a spray gun. And your thinking about getting parts.. it's a throwaway. Great job on the panel.. nice
I hate throwing stuff out :)
Good video I have gotten a spray gun like that one it's still in the box.
They spray good but not sure how long it'll last
@@LakesideAutobody well I'll find out this summer when I use it.
Did you think 15 minutes between coats was enough? It was probably pretty wet still. By the way, all the information I could find on the HF gun said to use 40-50 psi at the gun..... I used 40 psi on a trial and it seemed to work great.
Rustoleum dries faster if it is warm out and super long if it's cold. As a rule of thumb with any paint - just wait till it is tacky dry or dry then recoat. As for your gun - it really doesn't make a huge difference what the air pressure is at the gun - as long as you like how it's spraying and you're not annoying the neighbors with too much overspray 🥴
Really enjoy all of your videos. What's your opinion on the purple gun for primer as is? I did see a video of someone drilling out the purple gun for primer. Would you try that? As far as spare parts, for 10 bucks, toss it and get another. Anyway, thanks for sharing your knowledge and posting.
Get a large tip budget gun, summit racing about $35+$12 shipping roughly, got a 1.8 for primer needs.
I took a #50 drill bit and drilled the nozzle opening on my HF gun...took it from a 1.4 to about a 1.8 tip. Sprayed thinned primer just fine, and also doesn't leak when you let off the trigger.
Your use of a tack coat has prompted me to do more research. I don’t share your concern about replacement parts for such an inexpensive spray gun. At $10 (now $16) it is a throw away commodity in my opinion. How well does that purple gun lay down clear coat?
The purple gun is great for everything really. It sprays primer, paint and clear just fine. Great throw away gun. Some guys will say a tack coat causes orange peel but trust me... it's not true. As long as your last coat is good and wet you'll be fine. BTW there's always going to be a bit of orange peel. A lot of videos you see on YT, are folks spraying flat surfaces and that's easy to get no orange peel as you can really lay it on. Do that on a vertical panel and you'll likely have some runs :)
Just coming across your video. Curious what size compressor did you use? What is the cfm? You make it look easy. Thanks!
Here's a video on the compressor th-cam.com/video/53miAObOdVY/w-d-xo.html it's 5.4 SCFM @ 90 psi and 6.4 @ 40
@@LakesideAutobody thank you for that! 🙏
Any thoughts on using a Wagner paint sprayer? Acceptable or not so much? Ty Jerry! 🦀
Not so much - but..... I'm thinking it may make a good video if it worked. I'm not sure if it would work or not - never tried it but I do have one and I sprayed a shed with grey satin metal paint - it looks really nice :)
@@LakesideAutobody maybe you could do a video and see if it would. Or not. I think it may come down to pressure delivery of paint.
@@DaddyyCrab I think you are right - if that thing can break up the the paint or atomize it well enough - game on 🔥👍😊
@@LakesideAutobody I think it might be a worthwhile experiment on camera. It could be that it’s most effective with latex paints. 😎
Have you used Harbor Freight electric paint sprayer. I am gong to use that but wanted to know if you used it.
I have actually but only to paint a shed with outdoor house paint. It works great - still have it but not sure how well it would work with auto paint :)
Great video! I have painted bike frames with base and clear but it is $$. I was thinking about trying single stage urethane. What is the difference between that and your video? Thanks!
Single stage urethane is going to be a better overall paint - period - harder, shinier, less orange peel, more durable, faster dry time. That said, I was real impressed with the way this paint came out - real shiny, hard, dried fast. Maybe do a test - the price is better for sure:)
@@LakesideAutobody I used a 2x primer before. What did you use?
@@tomnorton8218 I use old fashioned lacquer primer for everything. Blocking, finish primer , etc. It's cheap, you can mix it thick or thin, doesn't harden in the cup, drys fast, sands easy, works well despite what you hear on the internet - that's all they had till just recently.
@@LakesideAutobody Another question if I may. When using single stage urethane how long is the drying time before the item can be used? Would putting it in a heated box help? Thanks!
Perfect! Thank you . Just what I was looking for. I used Acetone with my Rustoleum rusty primer. I assume I can spray Naphtha over acetone. I also have a purple gun. Works fine. But will be using a Finnishline 3 . Curious as to what size tip you recommend with that mixer. I'm spraying a utility trailer frame. Again Thanks.
Acetone, Mineral Spirits or Naptha can be used. Acetone works well because it dries faster. I'll check on that tip.
@@LakesideAutobody Just an FYI, Acetone is the quickest drying, Naptha isn't quite as fast, and Mineral Spirits is the slowest. Mineral Spirits can be a little oily (probably the cheap stuff I have bought). I used Naptha with Zynolyte Epoxy enamel back in the '80's when I had an appliance business and I repainted used appliances that I would sell. The speed of drying might be a consideration depending on the temperature that day.
@@garylangley4502 Thanks for the information. From your experience does any one of them shine any better than the other?
@@LakesideAutobody Naptha was better than mineral spirits, but I don't remember how Naptha compared with Acetone. If I remember right, they were about the same, but I could be mistaken. afterall it was about 40 years ago. Might be good for a video. Compare all three side by side.
People talk crap about those cheap purple guns. But the first few times you use them they work great. Not as good as an expensive gun. But I can buy 10 of them. Use them each a few times. Throw one away, grab another. I still get good results and I'm still not spending anything near what I would buying an expensive name brand gun.
A good painter can paint with any gun. A great painter can paint with a cheap gun and make it look like an expensive one.
Just like a good driver can do good in a race car. But a great driver can pass them in a piece of junk
Where do you get the Valspar tractor paint? Local Farm and Fleet and Tractor Supply used to carry it, but no longer. I had heard that Valspar discontinued the tractor paint, and can't find it on their website.
It may have discontinued it. I ordered it online because like you said Tractor Supply didn't have it - they have a new brand - forgot the name though.
@@LakesideAutobody Where do you get it online? Thieson's farm supply has a tractor paint brand is "van Sickle", but they don't have the hardener, I can get the hardener online tho. Have you ever used this brand before?
@@kermitfrog1897 I've never used that brand before but I think all that implement paint is similar. I bought the hardener on Amazon but it was a while ago - it's not there anymore :)
Rustoleum and Krylon have picked up the Tractor and Implement paint. I’ve used the Rustoleum and it’s very good. Stay away from the Magic brand from Tractor Supply (unless you’re just painting a fence or wheelbarrow) it’s just too hard to work with due to the long curing time it has.
Can this be sanded and polished if need be?
Yes. I would do a small test spot first to make sure it's cured or dried/hard enough.
Do you use a water separator between your compressor and gun? Ive only done one vehicle and had problems with condensation in my air hose.
Yes but I keep it real simple. Here's a couple vids that may help you make a decision. th-cam.com/video/CSGAgAyeInA/w-d-xo.html or th-cam.com/video/blE9tKKPI20/w-d-xo.html Both dryers work great for what you need it for :)
With your help I just got done with a month long'ish project on my Jeep. Using a 90 amp HF flux core welder put in 22 patch panels, both sides inner/outer rocker panels, both rear quarter panels, and did body work on one of the front quarter panels... Your videos helped tremendously!
Now I want to paint it flat black.. I have a hvlp sprayer. Was thinking about using the rust-oleum professional oil based. What activator/hardener should I use, can't seem to find a rust-oleum one? Can I use krylon or valspar hardener with rust-oleum? What would you recommend? Thanks!
Yes - you can use that hardener. Check out this video as it may help you decide on the paint to use: th-cam.com/video/VNrIwVMxjI0/w-d-xo.html or this one: th-cam.com/video/LxHLDwgWMho/w-d-xo.html - Let me know how your project goes - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry. Just got done painting, didn't turn out too bad. My spray gun didn't like horizontal surfaces, so got some streaking.. but good enough. How long should I wait before driving?
@@Gareth96v1 If the paint had hardener in it, you can unmask it and drive it the next day. I'd give it a day in the hot sun though to be safe. Nice job! Have a good weekend - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks again.. one more question.. I painted (spray) a stencil on the lift gate, what do you think would be best to seal the edges with? I can cover the whole stencil too.. Just don't want it flaking up. It's a duck...
@@Gareth96v1 If you sprayed it with good paint and prepared the surface correctly you should be OK just leaving it. If not you can spray the whole lift gate with good quality automotive 2K clear. Just tape it off, scuff the whole panel with red scotch brite pad and spray. You really can't just seal the edges as you'll have dry over spray to deal with. Unless you seal the edges with a small brush and some 2K clear. Let me know what you decide to do - curious - good project :)
Do you have to use a hardener with that paint? It won't dry on its own? Thanks for the video. Thumbs up on it. 👍
It will dry on it's own. However it's oil based paint and it does not dry real fast thus the hardener.
@@LakesideAutobody Hey buddy thank you for the info and the fast reply.
@@williamsantiago7303 Your'e welcome - have a great weekend:)
General question on technique- When painting an object such as this tailgate are you "triggering"? Do you keep paint and air flowing through each pass, release all the way to shut both off, or just release the color, maintain air, and pull the rest of the way when starting the next stroke? As new painter I find myself fully releasing, starting the air as I approach the edge to balance pressure, and fully pulling just before getting to part. Good or bad?
Yes just release the color - air is always on when painting. The reason is probably dust control and anti spitting. Sometimes if you stop altogether guns can "spit" a bit of paint. That's my thinking anyway on why you always have the air going when painting. You'll totally get used to it once you start - it will just be second nature after some time. Jerry
When i spray primer over clear coat what should I wipe clearcoat with before.i.spray? Is paint thinner ok? What about if I spray primer over paint?
All paint and/or clear coat has to be prepared by scuffing it with this: www.amazon.com/3M-03193-Paint-Body-Scuff/dp/B002NEWYNW or DA sanding it with 220 or finer. Hope that answers your ? - if not ask me again :)
@@LakesideAutobody let's say it's been sanded and scuffed already and it sat around in my garage for a week so it's got a little dust on it and I have touched the surface a few times with sweaty hands. What liquid would I wipe it with before I put on my next coat of paint or clearcoat?
What color paint is that? I have a red Jeep and was thinking about using case I H red but that paint looks like it has a lot of orange in it?
It was called M.F. Red - Massey Ferguson Red
Will this ratio work with an electric paint sprayer? With tractor paint do you need to do a primer coat?
Yes you will need a primer coat if it's down to bare metal. If not down to bare metal - no need for primer. Just sand/scuff and paint. I don't think an electric sprayer will work very well with auto paint or tractor paint. If you do try it, let me know if it works - curious :)
@@LakesideAutobody I'm painting a fiberglass bus. I'll let you know haha.
@@meowzic One bit of advice - that stuff runs pretty easily so stay light until you're sure you can really put the paint to it.
In between coats do you need to clean the gun?
No - If you put them on within reasonable time - your OK
add some acetone to the cup and stir it up, same for paint cup, about 3 oz
Do you have to use hardener?
No - it just drys slower
Can you post the ratio's paint to thinner , I know you showed it it the video be much nicer to friendly to show in the cups
Yes - I will focus on doing that when I mix the paint. For now though 4 to 3 to 1/4 can be measured out by marking how much paint you want to mix up on a paint stick. Then divide that distance into 8 equal parts. Now - 4 of those marks will be paint, 3 will be thinner and 1/4 of one of those marks will be hardener (basically a little bit of the last space will be hardener) Hope that helps for now :)
I have had problems with fan control, like narrowing pattern, same pattern no matter where you turn adjustment knob.
On the purple gun? It's not the most quality gun for sure but mine worked OK out of the box - had to tighten up a few things though and make some adjustments
@@LakesideAutobody The older purple guns worked great and I have always taken them apart and cleaned them. Took the new one back and got another, it did the same thing, they gave me a store credit on the second return.
@@klogjo Harbor Freight has let me down the last few times I've gone - They are often out of stock on the item I went there for. Also you can hardly use the 20% off coupon on anything anymore.
Does your compressor keep up with your da sander
I can't da sand the whole car with out letting it catch up. I do one panel at a time, take a break let the compressor catch up - maybe change the sanding disc, etc. - then continue. It keeps up spraying a whole car though and everything else. I could use a larger compressor but do I really need it - no. Hope that helps.
Do you need to primer surface after sanding with 320 with tractor paint
You only have to prime any bare metal spots. Otherwise if the paint is in good cond. just sand and paint.
Dont you need that ball filter thing for the gun ?
If you are talking about this: www.harborfreight.com/disposable-inline-moisture-filter-68224.html - yes they work well. If there is not much humidity you can get away w/o using one.
👍👍👍
Can I use a different hardener ? I didn't see ANY Valspar. I bought Magic brand. Does it make any difference and if so what do you recommend as an alternative to the Valspar hardener / Thanks
I always try to use the hardener that goes with the paint as a rule of thumb - but you could try another enamel hardener - it may work just fine. You can also get that Valspar hardener on ebay or amazon
@@LakesideAutobody Used the Majic hardener with Rustoleum and it works good.
@@55chevytruck Very cool - glad it worked for you
Thanks for sharing, how much time between 2nd and 3rd coat?
After using oil based enamel a couple of times, I would wait a little longer between coats (till it gets tacky). Real auto paint I wait 10-15 minutes between coats - rustoleum and valspar oil based enamel takes longer to dry - I think more like 1/2 hour - basically when it gets a little sticky or tacky.
where did you get the paint?
I believe I got it from Tractor Supply or I might have ordered it online.
Hi
What compressor are you using?
Sears/Craftsman model# 106.173840 (made by C.H.) - I like the old oil filled compressors made by C.H. or Devilbiss - they're quiet, you can get parts and they last forever.
@@LakesideAutobody 30 gallon?
how did the shine hold up?
I'm not sure as I borrowed the tailgate from the junkyard. I'm sure with the hardener it would hold up well. Like a brand new Kubota :)
Between the Naptha, acetone and min spirits, which would be best for gloss? Also, I am doing a project like this and will be adding some stripes, with that being said, would the acetone dry too quickly to unmask the stripes without the edges pulling up? Your thoughts greatly appreciated. Thanks
You will be fine using the acetone. I would think that the acetone would work best for shine as it would dry quicker and have less chance of dust, bugs etc. I don't think anyone would make for a better shine actually though just due to their chemical makeup. Hope that helps - be careful this type of paint runs easily so practice first on an old coffee can or something. Jerry
I tried the harbor freight gun, it even sucked for sealer! Lol ! Sata isnt the best but at least it gives a great finish . Then again the low capacity of the harbor freight could be the nozzle size.
Should spray gun be cleaned between coats? !5 minutes would harden paint.
You could pull the air cap and the nozzle if you want and clean them - it can't hurt. Never have I seen anyone in a body shop clean their guns between coats though. Again maybe if it was spaying weird you might remove the air cap and clean the fluid tip a bit and the cap - put it back together and it would spray nice. That's the norm.
Why do you spray from bottom up??
Probably if crap is going to come out of the gun it will happen when you first spray so I got in the habit of starting low and hidden. Also you can quickly get used to how the gun is spraying at that exact moment (compressor sometimes can't keep up) It doesn't make a dif though so start where you feel comfortable top or bottom - as long as the end result is "wet"
Re: Some Valspar Tractor and Implement Paint I just ordered; ... I am wondering if the Majic (brand name) hardner from my nearby Tractor Supply (easy option) would be compatible? or if RUST-OLEUM 7769-402 Professional Rusty Metal Primer would be an ok choice for my Tractor update. ... Learning more all the time over here :+)
I think it would work. If it says enamel hardener on the can, it's my "feeling" that it would do the job. Might want to test it first though :)
Could you clear over that to make it even more shinny? Thanks for the demo. I’ve hear magic paint holds up really well but takes 24 hrs between coats
For any type of paint the rule of thumb is wait till it gets tacky - next coat. I'm not sure what type of clear would stick for lack of better terms. I have seen videos on it though.
Nice technique, thanks! What color paint is that, AC Orange ?
You're welcome - Massey Ferguson Red (MF Red)
4 to 2 1/4 hardener it’s the rigth one? What temp?
I keep it around 70 degrees in the shop
How long does it take to dry?and how long between coats? Thanks for the video
With hardener on a warm day 70+ it drys to touch in about 1-2 hours. I think you could wash the car, and drive it after 24 hours. I would wait at least 1/2 hour between coats or until it is tacky. It does dry slower than "real" auto paint but I was real happy with the shine and hardness with the use of hardener.
The harborfreight spray gun don't work at that psi , I used that spray gun and start work at 50 psi and more
Holy cow! 50 psi? Why did you have to use that much pressure? Was the paint real thick or something?
Your paint must have been really thick or maybe latex paint. I use a purple gun at 20~35 psi with Rustoleum and it works just fine.
They don't carry this paint anywhere anymore, you were still able to get it on Amazon and Ebay up until a couple months ago. Looked for some today and its all gone.
It was a lot like Rustoleum. Tractor Supply has farm and implement paint too - might want to check them out.
Gun operation question: it sounds like you keep air running through the gun the whole time and only toggle the paint on and off. Is that correct?
Yes
Yes you can click code over rustoli and I've already done it saying I've already done it same as a automotive paint it will hold it it will hold up for years UV Protection from the sun can give you an awesome shine the shine plus you can use pigment pearls that you can buy pearls that you can buy on the Internet very cheap to mix with your club if you want to add it in split screen clear if you want to add an effect to the paint job If you want to know more let me know I can shoot I can show you some videos of what I've done
I'd like to see that - maybe you can send me some pictures of it. My email is on the home page under the "about" tab. Jerry
I use enamel paints and always just use acetone.
Supposedly you can use acetone, mineral spirits, and or paint thinner (not lacquer thinner). I suppose acetone dries the fastest. Thanks for the input :)
@@LakesideAutobody I don't like paint thinner for anything except cleaning. Lacquer thinner causes it to curdle...
I just can’t find a color I like.