I wanted to apologize for the audio, I didnt realize the wind was messing it up so badly until I started editing. I added a few product links in the description. 1:18 Intro to paint and thinners 5:55 setting up your HVLP spray gun 10:22 mixing paint so it will spray 12:35 spraying techniques Thanks for watching!!
I want to paint my several Tractors I have paint from Tractor supply have you ever heard of their paint, they have the Hardner and Catilzer, thanks Ken
To build on what @@50Caldemigod said it is easy to mix up single stage / two stage paint systems with 1k / 2k products. Single stage paints = paint only, no clear coat. Two-stage = basecoat and clear coat. 1k = no hardener (catalyst / activator). 2k = hardener. This is where it gets interesting. You can shoot a single stage (paint only no clear coat) and depending on how it is formulated with or without a hardener. If it is 1k single stage no hardener, it depends on the solvents flashing off to dry. 2k there is hardener and is more durable. With two-stage basecoat / clear coat system it can be a combination. The base coat may or not be 1k or 2k (no hardener, hardener) however the clear coat will always be 2k. It can be confusing but if you get it wrong at the mixing table before entering the spray booth it's going to a very bad and expensive day.
I don't know why this guy got any thumbs down but whoever gave him those thumbs down are probably just haters this guy explains a lot of good tips good job
@@Iknowyoumadnow I don’t know. Is your comment speculation? If you’re knowledgable, do you have some specific points you could share so people know what’s what? Thank you.
This is the best how to get started painting with an HVLP that I have seen so far. I feel like I can now go out and paint something by watching just this 1 video.
I have watched MANY vids on how to paint using rustoleum paint. Yours by FAR is the most helpful. You talk slow enough to listen, to explain thoroughly, you write stuff down so I can screenshot it, and you demonstrate pros and cons. You have been taught well and a HUGE thank you for teaching me. My first project will be painting my 7x16 white enclosed trailer. Fingers crossed.
Best way I found to check if paint is dry Have a part or same material (metal, plastic) whatever your painting. After you paint your part lay a medium to heavy coat on the test peace last and use that to check if your part is dry So you never have to compromise your part
Using spray cans was getting to be very expensive and I was getting inconsistent results. I wanted to learn how to spray paint using HVLP gun. This is a great video. Thank you very much.
Just watched for the second time, I’ve done a lot of painting but I’m always eager to learn new things. You are a good instructor, I learned a few things. And thanks for reminding everyone of the importance of wearing protective gear.
A couple years ago I started fixing mowers, snow blowers etc and I figured there had to be a better way to paint stuff then just rattle cans. Your video gave me a well explained step by step guide on how to do just that. Without your video I would have had a lot of unanswered questions. Now I have people hunting me down to paint their tractors for them. Thanks for the knowledge👍
I've always been one to believe in going back and reviewing material you've already covered no matter how "advanced" or "an expert" you are. You never know when you'll discover something you missed. In this case; that tip about runs. That's freaking awesome. I'm liking and saving this video for that alone and am going to use that tip first chance I get.
Great tips! Back in the late 70's I pulled the engine out of my classic T-Bird for a rebuild then I pulled all the wiring harness out of the way and sanded the engine compartment then I sprayed it with Rustoleum primer then Rustoleum satin black. I still have the car and under the hood still looks like the day I painted it. If you were wondering, the car still has the original paint that looks real good and it's a nice shiny black, a special car.
I started spraying 40 yrs ago. Hobby/Cars, whatever. A bad compressor, was expensive as heck. A good spray gun was $$. Laq Thinner and turpentine was about all we had for mixes. I setup a double compressor into one large tank. 100 psi was the first, then an auto-air conditioning compressor. It was on a continuous motor and the electric clutch was turned on and off, by the air regulator. The motors never stalled and the pressures were consistent. I was using HP guns. Cheers
Thats pretty cool. These days the air flows at a constant rate, the guns are consistent BC they made with CNC production and the paint options are endless. Its probably pretty cookie cutter compared to the old days. There's probably less skill required on the spray technician's part now too. Thanks for watching!
I really liked your video. I found it to be very informative and helpful. I used to spray a lot with rustoleum and got good results, although all I ever used was thinner so I’m going to have to try your method and see how I like it. Just fyi, when I was working in the mines, we found that rustoleum was the only paint that cyanide wouldn’t eat up within a very short time. We were using brushes to paint with but still got very nice results. Keep up the good work and thanks again
I almost laughed this video off. I have done a lot of projects, spent a lot of time in the garage, ask my wife LOL! This video is full of good advice and common sense tips. I don't use rustoleum paint, but that definitely doesn't lessen the content of your video. I checked out your channel and subscribed. Thank you. Semper Fi USMC.
Great video. I would like to mention that many paint & hardware stores carry soft plastic "pouring spouts" that snap onto a paint can to prevent the paint from dripping down the side of the can. It also keeps the channel clear so you have a tight, dry seal once you put the lid back on
This is the best comprehensive introductory video to using this type of paint sprayer. I especially appreciated the insight and instruction @ setting up the spray gun. It was great that you took the time to thoughtfully consider what was worth sharing, especially the written additions on the screen. I loved how clear and professional the language was. I have saved the video hoping to benefit from it more as I approach an upcoming project. Thank you.
Started using rustoleum to paint work trucks years ago great to have a can behind the seat to touch up scratches, keeps an old work truck looking sharp for years. Cheap as hell, catalyst definately recommended.
Great video, it’s hard to believe painting a car is not as difficult as we thought in the past . Yours and others video speaks volume. You are doing a great job . Keep it up .
Thank you! I have this video saved for every time I want to use one of my HVLP sprayers. Several months may go by before I will use my HVLP again... a lot is forgotten over those months. I do want to break out my HVLP sprayers and practice more often. The flick technique at the end of a stroke is something that definitely needs practice.
Great video! I've used Rustoleum many times for jobs around the house; painted my outdoor iron furniture, repainted my tractor, an air compressor, and an old shortwave radio cabinet. All came out great and the outdoor furniture is still doing great after 2 years with no rust returning. You are exactly right, the Hardener is a must for a hard durable finish. Keep up the great work.
When I had a used appliance business, I got good results by thinning the paint with Naphtha. I found that paint thinner was way too slow, and was oily. Sometimes it didn't harden at all with thinner. I found that Naphtha dries maybe a little slower than acetone, which gives the paint a chance to smooth out. I just shot the paint outside, and most people said that it looked like a factory paint job. The paint I used was Zynolyte Epoxy, but they don't make it any longer.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. This is one of the best tutorials on basic painting I have ever seen or read about -- considering the basic equipment used, the 'open air' environment and basic preparation. I also agree that if one is to undertake painting an entire car or motorcycle, upgrading to higher quality of materials is a very good concept to follow. Thanks again!!!
Another trick for runs is to lay tape on the run and then pull it off Its a cleaner way to reduce the size of the run Then jus add lay down another coat of paint It works great
I have been going at the W&F stuff again since retiring from the fire service and once again doing some fixture, and ornamental stuff in my little "home based" shop. This is where I really began using a lot of the rustoleum product line. Your assessments of the rustoleum product line and application of it are pretty much spot on for what an how I use and apply it with a couple of slight application and reduction modifications. I was looking for a way to make the rustoleum applications on the ornamental come out with just a little bit of a rougher finish without having to add any challenging particulates or texture materials in the mix. After a little experimentation with some application technique I came up with a way to get the finish I was looking for by doing a 3 step process of application. I thin the rustoleum to about 20% with acetone, using a 1.4 or 1.5 tip first step is to spray the first pass pretty much as normal for a good wet coat. Give it about 7 - 10 minutes to get tacky, then reset your gun by leaning out the paint flow a bit, increasing the pattern spray, and upping the air flow a bit. Hold your spray gun back about 50 - 75% further away than for your finish coating and make your second pass. This creates a controlled and even light over-spray pattern on top of the already applied wet (now tacky) coat. Now there is a third pass made after waiting another 7 - 15 minutes again with the gun reset to a proper finish coat pass. Shoot your third and last pass a little lighter than the initial wetting coat, but a nice even coating same as the first pass. Once everything has fully dried and cured you have a finish which has a nice somewhat grainy pattern close to the iron look of a finished ornamental iron piece while still having a nice satin finish. Takes a little practice, but it makes the finish product look more like ornamental iron work than a smooth steel look. Works if you are using aluminum for your ornamental work as well, but you need a good etching aluminum primer on the work first...!
Oops bad or backwards statement in my reply... I thin the rustoleum WITH 20 -25% Acetone... the way I wrote it looks like I thin the rustoleum to 20%...!!
Great instruction. Will apply to my next set of tractor wheels. I had good results on my first set of tractor wheels but I really could have used your instructions to save a lot of time. Now I feel confident I can move on to the tractor sheet metal.
I painted my Honda civic 3 1/2 years ago, with Rustoleum in the quart cans, and it still looks great. I thinned it with acetone & used catylist from my primer. I did some tests first to find what worked best.
I have read and watched many TH-cam Vids on this topic. I painted my old beater BMW e30 with rustoleum gloss white professional. This video ranks at top of list for play by play steps and tips.
Great video! Pro tip: when pouring paint from a full can, wrap a piece of wide tape half way around the top of the can to make a spout. One gallon cans may need to double the hieght.
Thanks for those tips! I recently purchased my HVLP gun and set up to paint my jon boat. I started with some lawn furniture and wow! I am ready to start the jon boat now... and a few of the things you mentioned about how to lay down the paint without leaving a tiger stripe were bang on. Thanks!
Great video. i was never much of a painter but laid a few coats on different things for the years. After a painter sat me down and explained the process and how easy spraying automotive paint was i gave up buying the $30 cans of color match for my vehicles. I just mix up what I need and lay it on. I have always sprayed Rustoleum but just guesstimated the thinner every time... I certainly like your ratios. i love using this paint to do the steel exterior doors and get professional quality every times. one hint though.. this paint can be a bit softer tan normal coatings so a trick I was taught by a sign maker is when you are all dry and before installing the door give it a wipe with Armour All. It will help with resisting dings and scratches.
Great video very well explained. My tip is have more than one at least three measured cups.As once you mix it's hard to read thru the last mixing. Second don't premix in hot weather the catalyst will kick earlier The catalyst is a very good additive for rustleum or other paint of this type. It makes it tougher. I also agree with kicking it up a notch with real urethane 2k paint. This does not mean you have to pay alot . eBay has a paint vender called "Speedkote" that sells paint kits of 2k ( 2 component urethane paint) For $100. You get a gallon of paint and Hardner...you can not get that low cost ,plus free shipping , locally. Other sources are Summit Racing, Eastwood automotive , that have 2k paint kits in gallons and quarts. You can use Rust-Oleum on many pairs with the catalyst. But 2k is a little more money.But "real Automotive Grade ,paint. It will wet sand and buff alot better last in weather longer, tougher, shinier! But if your just doing non automotive thinks . Go for it with Rust-Oleum painst w/ catlyst . Great video ,well done, explained very well !
Great video. I've been wanting to save some $$$ on paint. I've redone boats and I restore furniture for fun. But rattle cans get spendy. Thanks for keeping it straight forward!
I did a Rustolium paint job years ago on my Dodge Flatbed. No real bodywork mostly just red lead filler, Had to experiment with the thinner till I got a good spray. Did this over a good sand-able primer. Two coat finish. No sealer. Man it was a tough paint and it stunk for weeks. Took forever to really cure. Here’s the kicker, about two months later my “buddy” stole the truck and crashed it into a thorn hedgerow. Had to get a specialist to pull it out it was so far down and deep in the thorns. Tore a mirror off, but that was the only damage the paint was un-scratched. Thanks for the information, bought a 1991 Dodge 1st Gen Cummings. Solid body, crap paint.
Good video. Xylene, available at Home Depot and Lowes, may be a more economical choice than going to an automotive store to buy professional reducer. I used Xylene to reduce Rustoleum Hammered Copper paint, which the instructions said to use Xylene to thin.
I too have used Xylene with good results in both the Rustoleum primers and paint. I think it does a better job helping the paint stick to new steel than ordinary reducer or paint thinner. Flash and dry time is good too. Interesting that, when Rustoleum first came out with their tall industrial rattle cans, I noticed that xylene is in the material list.
Xylene is a good. It will flash quicker than paint thinner but slower than acetone. Its a little more pure than thinner/mineral spirits. It should only be used outdoors as it can be toxic.
did a 75/25 rustoleum thinner paint job on my little geo actually came out pretty damn good did a lot of research and people even say that you can throw a 4k clear on rustoleum going to do a gloss black with a 4k on the mercedes im working on now we will see how it turns out but my little geo came out clean
Glad to hear the GEO came out good. Generally speaking Alkyd enamels like rustoleum are designed to not need a clear coat. Id definitely do a test panel. If you do clear coat make sure you give the rustoleum time to fully cure, I think they say 30 days+. Id love to hear how it works out for you. It seems people have mixed results using clear over rustoleum. Thanks SERPENT
I painted my entire work truck with Rust-Oleum gloss white its held up for years now you can get a surprisingly good paint job with Rust-Oleum for painting anything automotive i cut it 3:1 with 1 light base coat to begin then 2 heavy coats so i can wet sand and buff it should i get any runs or orange peel but ive been very lucky ive only ever had 1 run on anything automotive with it i have painted several white vehicles with it and also 1 black truck that i let fully cure then i went over with 2k clear it was phenomenal for the low price and for frames equipment and trailers i use 1:1 with multiple light coats then one good heavy coat while its still slightly tacky infind i.get less runs this way
I have a Fairchild Products 30242 pressure regulator that gives me great air regulation when painting HVLP. It is amazing the difference a good air regulator will make. The pressure and volume of a precision regulator is amazing.
Very helpful video, thank you. Subscribed. I've always used rattle cans, and have had good results, but I waste a lot of paint. So, bought the Harbor Freight spray gun and am working on moisture filters now. I have an old jukebox cabinet I'm painting flat black with Rustoleum, but the kicker here is that I need to sprinkle gold glitter over the paint job while the paint is wet, enough to make the glitter stick. Painting this outside, and will use mineral spirits to help the paint stay wet a little longer. Probably do it when it's 50-60 degrees out. After it's painted and glittered up, it'll get matte clear over it. Think I'd better practice the whole procedure on a piece of plywood first, to see how well this is going to work.
Dang man, as a total beginner this was a HUGE help. I personally went with the store bought reducer and catalyst (picked up both at Tractor Supply) worked wonderfully! Thanks! P.s. clean your gun well!
Hey thanks for the video. I've always been fascinated by these low budget paint jobs for some reason. I pretty much knew everything you said in here only thing different would be the overlap. I always did 50% but I will do a 70% next time I spray just to see how it goes.
I am doing this very thing right now. Painting my Bronco with kubota orange tractor paint. It isn't high gloss like a bc/cc job, but it looks really good for what it is.
Helpful tips. I got a few things that i need to paint this weekend. Will use these tips when mixing and spraying rustolium. See if it turns out better.
Great Video; Very informative; I do have a couple of questions; What are the cons for using "Rustoleum" (assuming enamel base) paint in automotive applications vs the standard acrylic urethane based paint? I already know of one; chemical susceptibility; i.e gasoline will wash it off. I don't know if that changes if you catalyzed Rustoleum (I didn't know you could do that). Also can you clear coat over Rustoleum paint with automotive clear system (catalyzed clear)? I.e.will the clear stick to it, last, look good, etc? The motivation of course would be to protect the paint from chemicals and UV light.
I have watched a lot of videos on youtube. I would have to say I have gotten way more out of this one. I'm pretty new to painting and trying to learn as much as I can. All your tips are awesome, all the way down to touching the paint with your finger nail, not leaving a finger print.
I sprayed some Rust-Oleum thru a Binks #7 spray gun last week, results were excellent. I was not sure if hardner was comparable with Rust-Oleum so Ididn't add. I thined the paint to 20 seconds in a old Dupont metering cup, same as thining Centari acrylic enamel. ALWAYS wear a n95 respirator with organic vapor Niosh cartridges if using hardner /catylist. Thanks for the great video.
Very well done video. Solid informationon mixing and gun adjustment. The sequence of setting your pattern before mixing paint makes sense and saves paint. Maybe a little information on how much compressor is needed for the HVLP gun would be helpful to some before buying one of those guns.
this is from another website: (googled ''adjusting air pressure hvlp spray gun"} HVLP Air Pressure Setting for Base Coat Clear Coat (High Volume Low Pressure) When spraying base coat clear coat systems, you want to spray at 26-29 PSI. You measure this PSI by pulling the trigger and letting air flow through the tip of your gun with your dial or digital readout saying 26-29 PSI. When spraying clear coat I usually like to up the pressure 2-3 psi for a little more atomization and better flow out. 28-29 PSI being the sweet spot in my opinion. Most HVLP spray guns will use up 10-14 scfm (air volume) at 40 psi. (Volume of air pressure per cubic foot).
When pouring your paint can use a wide piece of tape half way around the can and half way up. Makes it easier to pour and less mess. Also tap a small hole in the outer rim of the can and the material will flow back into the can.
This has been the best by far tutorial that I have seen regarding paint and the process. I am no doubt twice your age & it is wonderful to learn from younger people who take pride in their profession. I have always wanted to . I have always wanted to use a spray gun of which I have two new ones sitting in the boxes and been extremely leery on trying them until now. thank you very much, all the best on your endeavors in life, I know you will do very well.
Thank you very much. I always appreciate knowing that video did indeed help another person with their project. Its always good to know the effort that goes into these videos is worth it.
I'm not sure if you will see this knowing how old this video is, but I use Rustoleum rattle cans a lot on bare steel and cast iron with body shop results. The key is etching your work piece with acid like Lime-Away or a 50% diluted of Muriatic Acid and water for up to an hour if rust is present, wash it off with plenty of water, wash it again with 91% Alcohol, dry it with compressed air, and pre-heat your work piece to 150 degrees before spraying. The paint sticks immediately like glue, no chance for runs, and cures rather quickly, less than an hour. Pre-heating your workpiece makes your paint self level like it cam out of a body shop. Hope this helps guys. Use an infrared thermometer to know the proper temp. :) I restore vintage cast iron machinery from post WW2 with amazing results, you just have to remove the rust in an acid bath so it's back to raw cast iron or steel. The outcome is truly amazing.
Great video. Your the first one I see using catalyst. I will be painting a few car parts and just got a gun, air regulator, water filter , mesh strainers ect
Cool. Good luck! In my recent metal shear video I used a product called "japan drier" it speeds up dry times significantly. Check it out! Thanks for watching. th-cam.com/video/Hk76eo7OHi0/w-d-xo.html
I learned a lot about Rust-Oleum through a painted cars with lacquer and run water oil base but I'm on a budget now I learned how to good mixed ratio and I've been also throwing 2K clear and I intercoat I added pearls and metallics to the rust only them and it looks great thank you
I just saw this video and I was impressed with the way you explain each detail in such a simple easy way to follow. I learned a great deal by watching your video. Thank so much for taking the time to share with us your knowledge and know how.
Very good job on this video. Good instructions, on mixing ratios. In general, I like rust oleum paint, it's good paint at a very reasonable price. I just subbed.👍
That was one of the best Rustomleum paint videos I've seen yet. I use Rustoleum allot around the shop on Hot Rods, Rat Rods, and Metric Bobbers I build. I prefer to do the chassis with Rustoleum Paint simply because it is durable, it's cheap in comparison to automotive paints and Lacquers. I spent a long time trying to figure out how to spray it consistently through trial and error but now I get surprisingly good results and really like the way it lays down. I will use the information you provided in this video to step it up a notch and maybe use it on body panels and gas tanks for the Bobbers to see just how well it can be applied. Thanks for the great educational video.
Damn you man, why couldn’t I have found this video sooner. From the over spray technique to the doors with the barrel hinges. Thanks for putting this together!
THANKS MY MAN!!! YOU ARE VERY THOROUGH ABOUT EXPLAINING YOURSELF. I WANNA JUST LET YOU KNOW THAT I APPRECIATE YOUR EXPERTISE ON SPRAYING OUT OF A SPRAY GUN AND THE TIPS ON ALL MIXING INSTRUCTIONS THANKS A MILLION BROTHER MUCH LOVE AND RESPECT. KEEP UP THE GREAT TUTORIALS THEY DO HELP THE LESS EXPERIENCED SPRAYERS AS MYSELF...100% 👍👍👍
Awesome! Local paint shop I use, where I single stage paint jobs, won't give info out on Rust-Oleum. I thought I would try it out on my daily beater. On painting bumper covers, do I need an Adhession spray before paint? Thanks!
Thanks Mr. Build. You live in Cali? I lived all over So Cal from San Fran to San Diego, and all points in between. Was in 70s to 80s. Lot less congested and Laid Back. Live in Phoenix now. Thanks for your response.
I live in the country, and some people here just use a brush and roller for their old truck, or whatever they are trying to keep from rusting. It doesn't look as shiny as a nice acrylic enamal with clear or whatever is getting used now. But, it doesn't look that bad either, and not shiny is ok if you have a bunch of dents. Plus, there is not much waste from overspray. Probably wouldn't work on your porsche or mercedes though if you live in the city ... I use black rustoleum on my truck frame and undercarriage, because a lot of salt gets used to melt snow, and that seems to work pretty good where rocks and sand wore the original paint off. Just use a quart with a paint bush and old clothes, and get under the truck for an hour. I'd use a gun though if I was doing the body.
Great video. Not exactly "budget", though. It's not the paint, gun, or even the chemicals and hoses that add up and ruins the budget aspect. It's the powerful enough air compressor and big enough tank. If more people had that we'd probably have fewer rattle can videos.
Is a compressor that expensive? I bought a 12gal one at a pawn shop. One of the prongs was broken on the plug, the cheap plastic hose was broken and it was attached with a compression fitting. They wanted $100 for it and after pointing out all of that plus the need to add a flow control valve to it I got them down to $45. I then went to harbor freight and picked up the flow control valve, some quick disconnects, and 100 feet of 3/8 inch hose. Total investment is still under $90. To be honest, it is one of the most used tools in my shop. I use it with impact guns, paint guns, nail guns, staple guns, etc, etc, etc. Heck, my wife will put the air sprayer nosal on it and use it to clean out dust from inside stuff like the gaming system. It even gets used to air up tires on the vehicles. Have you seen what gas stations charge to put air in a tire? If you watch the harbor freight sales you can get a lot of the pneumatic tools for cheap as well. I agree with UnitedStatesofBuild, if you have a DIY shop it is never a bad investment!
Thanks for this comment Grandpa's Place. Every DIY garage/shop will benefit from having a decent compressor. Check your local Classifieds, Craigslist, offerUP, FB Marketplace, Garage sales and even Pawn shop like Grandpa points out. YOU WONT REGRET owning a GOOD compressor!
Grandpa's Place Unfortunately you need at minimum 10cfm compressor, maybe more with hvlp gun. They’re generally 60 gallon or larger air compressors. So $800 or more?
Thanks for the great video. I'm repainting my car trailer next year and think its time i finally try out my cheap paint gun after watching this because rattle cans would be way too much
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I wanted to apologize for the audio, I didnt realize the wind was messing it up so badly until I started editing. I added a few product links in the description.
1:18 Intro to paint and thinners
5:55 setting up your HVLP spray gun
10:22 mixing paint so it will spray
12:35 spraying techniques
Thanks for watching!!
Hello please recommend a clear coat to apply on this mixture. The one I used wrinkled and bubbled badly. Thnx Norm
No problem audio was fine
I want to paint my several Tractors I have paint from Tractor supply have you ever heard of their paint, they have the Hardner and Catilzer, thanks Ken
@@normvillanueva9874 Oil based enamels are considered single stage paints, especially with hardener added. No need for a clear coat.
To build on what @@50Caldemigod said it is easy to mix up single stage / two stage paint systems with 1k / 2k products.
Single stage paints = paint only, no clear coat. Two-stage = basecoat and clear coat. 1k = no hardener (catalyst / activator). 2k = hardener.
This is where it gets interesting. You can shoot a single stage (paint only no clear coat) and depending on how it is formulated with or without a hardener. If it is 1k single stage no hardener, it depends on the solvents flashing off to dry. 2k there is hardener and is more durable.
With two-stage basecoat / clear coat system it can be a combination. The base coat may or not be 1k or 2k (no hardener, hardener) however the clear coat will always be 2k. It can be confusing but if you get it wrong at the mixing table before entering the spray booth it's going to a very bad and expensive day.
I don't know why this guy got any thumbs down but whoever gave him those thumbs down are probably just haters this guy explains a lot of good tips good job
Thanks, glad you gleaned some information
Yeah man! I learned a lot from him.
I totally agree 👍
Maybeeee becauuuuse...he doesn't know wtf he's doing
@@Iknowyoumadnow I don’t know. Is your comment speculation? If you’re knowledgable, do you have some specific points you could share so people know what’s what? Thank you.
This is the best how to get started painting with an HVLP that I have seen so far. I feel like I can now go out and paint something by watching just this 1 video.
Thanks for the feedback! It makes all that filming and editing worth it
Just the way you presented in the first 30 sec.... I knew to take this seriously 👌
I have watched MANY vids on how to paint using rustoleum paint. Yours by FAR is the most helpful. You talk slow enough to listen, to explain thoroughly, you write stuff down so I can screenshot it, and you demonstrate pros and cons. You have been taught well and a HUGE thank you for teaching me. My first project will be painting my 7x16 white enclosed trailer. Fingers crossed.
Best way I found to check if paint is dry
Have a part or same material (metal, plastic) whatever your painting.
After you paint your part lay a medium to heavy coat on the test peace last and use that to check if your part is dry
So you never have to compromise your part
I do this as well... but 1/2 the time I forget to spray the test piece :-)
@@grumpycat_1 🤣✌️
Using spray cans was getting to be very expensive and I was getting inconsistent results. I wanted to learn how to spray paint using HVLP gun. This is a great video. Thank you very much.
Just watched for the second time, I’ve done a lot of painting but I’m always eager to learn new things. You are a good instructor, I learned a few things. And thanks for reminding everyone of the importance of wearing protective gear.
A couple years ago I started fixing mowers, snow blowers etc and I figured there had to be a better way to paint stuff then just rattle cans.
Your video gave me a well explained step by step guide on how to do just that. Without your video I would have had a lot of unanswered questions. Now I have people hunting me down to paint their tractors for them. Thanks for the knowledge👍
Awesome, thats exactly what makes youtube worthwhile
I've always been one to believe in going back and reviewing material you've already covered no matter how "advanced" or "an expert" you are. You never know when you'll discover something you missed. In this case; that tip about runs. That's freaking awesome. I'm liking and saving this video for that alone and am going to use that tip first chance I get.
This is probably the best guide to spraying Rustoleum that I've seen yet.
thanks for watching
Great tips! Back in the late 70's I pulled the engine out of my classic T-Bird for a rebuild then I pulled all the wiring harness out of the way and sanded the engine compartment then I sprayed it with Rustoleum primer then Rustoleum satin black. I still have the car and under the hood still looks like the day I painted it. If you were wondering, the car still has the original paint that looks real good and it's a nice shiny black, a special car.
It would be interesting to see how the rustoleum recipe has changed over the years. You cant go wrong with satin black. Thanks for the story!
Top notch presentation. He speaks clearly and takes nothing for granted. I learned a lot here.
How could this guy possibly receive 173 thumbs down?. This tutorial is awesome!!
Why did it take so long for youtube to recommend this to me? Finally a spray channel that gives valuable information.
I started spraying 40 yrs ago. Hobby/Cars, whatever. A bad compressor, was expensive as heck. A good spray gun was $$. Laq Thinner and turpentine was about all we had for mixes. I setup a double compressor into one large tank. 100 psi was the first, then an auto-air conditioning compressor. It was on a continuous motor and the electric clutch was turned on and off, by the air regulator. The motors never stalled and the pressures were consistent. I was using HP guns. Cheers
Thats pretty cool. These days the air flows at a constant rate, the guns are consistent BC they made with CNC production and the paint options are endless. Its probably pretty cookie cutter compared to the old days. There's probably less skill required on the spray technician's part now too. Thanks for watching!
I really liked your video. I found it to be very informative and helpful. I used to spray a lot with rustoleum and got good results, although all I ever used was thinner so I’m going to have to try your method and see how I like it. Just fyi, when I was working in the mines, we found that rustoleum was the only paint that cyanide wouldn’t eat up within a very short time. We were using brushes to paint with but still got very nice results. Keep up the good work and thanks again
I almost laughed this video off. I have done a lot of projects, spent a lot of time in the garage, ask my wife LOL! This video is full of good advice and common sense tips. I don't use rustoleum paint, but that definitely doesn't lessen the content of your video. I checked out your channel and subscribed. Thank you. Semper Fi USMC.
Thanks!!
Great video. I would like to mention that many paint & hardware stores carry soft plastic "pouring spouts" that snap onto a paint can to prevent the paint from dripping down the side of the can. It also keeps the channel clear so you have a tight, dry seal once you put the lid back on
This is the best comprehensive introductory video to using this type of paint sprayer. I especially appreciated the insight and instruction @ setting up the spray gun.
It was great that you took the time to thoughtfully consider what was worth sharing, especially the written additions on the screen. I loved how clear and professional the language was. I have saved the video hoping to benefit from it more as I approach an upcoming project. Thank you.
Thanks for the positive feedback. Im glad it helped you.
Started using rustoleum to paint work trucks years ago great to have a can behind the seat to touch up scratches, keeps an old work truck looking sharp for years. Cheap as hell, catalyst definately recommended.
Great video, it’s hard to believe painting a car is not as difficult as we thought in the past . Yours and others video speaks volume. You are doing a great job . Keep it up .
Thank you!
I have this video saved for every time I want to use one of my HVLP sprayers. Several months may go by before I will use my HVLP again... a lot is forgotten over those months.
I do want to break out my HVLP sprayers and practice more often. The flick technique at the end of a stroke is something that definitely needs practice.
I never thought of adding catylist to rustoleum for around the house spray projects instead of the can. Thanks for the tips.
In my experience doing it I have only seen benefits
Patrick Shea if it contains methyl di isocyanate go to dangers of on TH-cam before spraying heed them or you may end up in hospital
I’m a very old painter. I like this kid. He’s good!
Great video! I've used Rustoleum many times for jobs around the house; painted my outdoor iron furniture, repainted my tractor, an air compressor, and an old shortwave radio cabinet. All came out great and the outdoor furniture is still doing great after 2 years with no rust returning. You are exactly right, the Hardener is a must for a hard durable finish. Keep up the great work.
Thanks for this comment, I always enjoy hearing about various projects and how they're holding up.
Good info for Rust-Oleum fans wanting to break away from the bottles.
When I had a used appliance business, I got good results by thinning the paint with Naphtha. I found that paint thinner was way too slow, and was oily. Sometimes it didn't harden at all with thinner. I found that Naphtha dries maybe a little slower than acetone, which gives the paint a chance to smooth out. I just shot the paint outside, and most people said that it looked like a factory paint job. The paint I used was Zynolyte Epoxy, but they don't make it any longer.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. This is one of the best tutorials on basic painting I have ever seen or read about -- considering the basic equipment used, the 'open air' environment and basic preparation. I also agree that if one is to undertake painting an entire car or motorcycle, upgrading to higher quality of materials is a very good concept to follow. Thanks again!!!
Another trick for runs is to lay tape on the run and then pull it off
Its a cleaner way to reduce the size of the run
Then jus add lay down another coat of paint
It works great
I should have looked at the comments first before I posted the same thing that you did my bad LoL
Superb video! I'm restoring a 1965 Rockwell 34-450 Unisaw, and this has given me the confidence to venture forth.
I have been going at the W&F stuff again since retiring from the fire service and once again doing some fixture, and ornamental stuff in my little "home based" shop. This is where I really began using a lot of the rustoleum product line. Your assessments of the rustoleum product line and application of it are pretty much spot on for what an how I use and apply it with a couple of slight application and reduction modifications. I was looking for a way to make the rustoleum applications on the ornamental come out with just a little bit of a rougher finish without having to add any challenging particulates or texture materials in the mix. After a little experimentation with some application technique I came up with a way to get the finish I was looking for by doing a 3 step process of application. I thin the rustoleum to about 20% with acetone, using a 1.4 or 1.5 tip first step is to spray the first pass pretty much as normal for a good wet coat. Give it about 7 - 10 minutes to get tacky, then reset your gun by leaning out the paint flow a bit, increasing the pattern spray, and upping the air flow a bit. Hold your spray gun back about 50 - 75% further away than for your finish coating and make your second pass. This creates a controlled and even light over-spray pattern on top of the already applied wet (now tacky) coat. Now there is a third pass made after waiting another 7 - 15 minutes again with the gun reset to a proper finish coat pass. Shoot your third and last pass a little lighter than the initial wetting coat, but a nice even coating same as the first pass.
Once everything has fully dried and cured you have a finish which has a nice somewhat grainy pattern close to the iron look of a finished ornamental iron piece while still having a nice satin finish. Takes a little practice, but it makes the finish product look more like ornamental iron work than a smooth steel look. Works if you are using aluminum for your ornamental work as well, but you need a good etching aluminum primer on the work first...!
Oops bad or backwards statement in my reply... I thin the rustoleum WITH 20 -25% Acetone... the way I wrote it looks like I thin the rustoleum to 20%...!!
Great instruction. Will apply to my next set of tractor wheels. I had good results on my first set of tractor wheels but I really could have used your instructions to save a lot of time. Now I feel confident I can move on to the tractor sheet metal.
Damn solid, good info. For us that are challenged through lack of experience... this is very helpful.
I painted my Honda civic 3 1/2 years ago, with Rustoleum in the quart cans, and it still looks great. I thinned it with acetone & used catylist from my primer. I did some tests first to find what worked best.
I have read and watched many TH-cam Vids on this topic. I painted my old beater BMW e30 with rustoleum gloss white professional. This video ranks at top of list for play by play steps and tips.
Thanks!
Keeping the wet spot wet is good advice.
Great video! Pro tip: when pouring paint from a full can, wrap a piece of wide tape half way around the top of the can to make a spout. One gallon cans may need to double the hieght.
Awesome tip!
Another tip. Pierce two or three holes in the inner lip where your pouring and the paint will drain back.
But then the can is ruined?
@ The can is not ruined. The lid will go right back into the groove and cover the pierced holes.
After watching this, I promptly got off my butt and went outside and worked on a metal project! Thank you for the Great video.
Yeh!
Thanks for those tips! I recently purchased my HVLP gun and set up to paint my jon boat. I started with some lawn furniture and wow! I am ready to start the jon boat now... and a few of the things you mentioned about how to lay down the paint without leaving a tiger stripe were bang on. Thanks!
Great video. i was never much of a painter but laid a few coats on different things for the years. After a painter sat me down and explained the process and how easy spraying automotive paint was i gave up buying the $30 cans of color match for my vehicles. I just mix up what I need and lay it on. I have always sprayed Rustoleum but just guesstimated the thinner every time... I certainly like your ratios. i love using this paint to do the steel exterior doors and get professional quality every times. one hint though.. this paint can be a bit softer tan normal coatings so a trick I was taught by a sign maker is when you are all dry and before installing the door give it a wipe with Armour All. It will help with resisting dings and scratches.
Great video very well explained.
My tip is have more than one at least three measured cups.As once you mix it's hard to read thru the last mixing.
Second don't premix in hot weather the catalyst will kick earlier
The catalyst is a very good additive for rustleum or other paint of this type.
It makes it tougher.
I also agree with kicking it up a notch with real urethane 2k paint.
This does not mean you have to pay alot .
eBay has a paint vender called "Speedkote" that sells paint kits of 2k ( 2 component urethane paint)
For $100. You get a gallon of paint and Hardner...you can not get that low cost ,plus free shipping , locally.
Other sources are Summit Racing, Eastwood automotive , that have 2k paint kits in gallons and quarts.
You can use Rust-Oleum on many pairs with the catalyst. But 2k is a little more money.But "real Automotive Grade ,paint.
It will wet sand and buff alot better last in weather longer, tougher, shinier!
But if your just doing non automotive thinks . Go for it with Rust-Oleum painst w/ catlyst .
Great video ,well done, explained very well !
Great info...thanks!
I am going with all rustoleum paint and clear no hardener i am trying to spend as little money as possible.
I add the reducer and catalyst first to the cup because they are clear and won't cover the lines in the cup for the paint.
P.o.r.15,...?
Great advice. Added it in my favs for reference. Only little thing missing for us newbies, is a section on how to clean your equipment afterwards.
I have that filmed, I just havent edited it yet. How to clean you gun in under 3 mins. Keep an eye out! Thanks.
Great video. I've been wanting to save some $$$ on paint. I've redone boats and I restore furniture for fun. But rattle cans get spendy. Thanks for keeping it straight forward!
I did a Rustolium paint job years ago on my Dodge Flatbed. No real bodywork mostly just red lead filler, Had to experiment with the thinner till I got a good spray. Did this over a good sand-able primer. Two coat finish. No sealer. Man it was a tough paint and it stunk for weeks. Took forever to really cure. Here’s the kicker, about two months later my “buddy” stole the truck and crashed it into a thorn hedgerow. Had to get a specialist to pull it out it was so far down and deep in the thorns. Tore a mirror off, but that was the only damage the paint was un-scratched. Thanks for the information, bought a 1991 Dodge 1st Gen Cummings. Solid body, crap paint.
Good video. Xylene, available at Home Depot and Lowes, may be a more economical choice than going to an automotive store to buy professional reducer. I used Xylene to reduce Rustoleum Hammered Copper paint, which the instructions said to use Xylene to thin.
I too have used Xylene with good results in both the Rustoleum primers and paint. I think it does a better job helping the paint stick to new steel than ordinary reducer or paint thinner. Flash and dry time is good too. Interesting that, when Rustoleum first came out with their tall industrial rattle cans, I noticed that xylene is in the material list.
Xylene is a good. It will flash quicker than paint thinner but slower than acetone. Its a little more pure than thinner/mineral spirits. It should only be used outdoors as it can be toxic.
This is by far the best video for a beginner to watch!😊
did a 75/25 rustoleum thinner paint job on my little geo actually came out pretty damn good did a lot of research and people even say that you can throw a 4k clear on rustoleum going to do a gloss black with a 4k on the mercedes im working on now we will see how it turns out but my little geo came out clean
Glad to hear the GEO came out good. Generally speaking Alkyd enamels like rustoleum are designed to not need a clear coat. Id definitely do a test panel. If you do clear coat make sure you give the rustoleum time to fully cure, I think they say 30 days+. Id love to hear how it works out for you. It seems people have mixed results using clear over rustoleum. Thanks SERPENT
I painted my entire work truck with Rust-Oleum gloss white its held up for years now you can get a surprisingly good paint job with Rust-Oleum for painting anything automotive i cut it 3:1 with 1 light base coat to begin then 2 heavy coats so i can wet sand and buff it should i get any runs or orange peel but ive been very lucky ive only ever had 1 run on anything automotive with it i have painted several white vehicles with it and also 1 black truck that i let fully cure then i went over with 2k clear it was phenomenal for the low price and for frames equipment and trailers i use 1:1 with multiple light coats then one good heavy coat while its still slightly tacky infind i.get less runs this way
Got inspiration here to get off my butt and go spray something! Thanks from Colorado for the video and all the tips.
I have a Fairchild Products 30242 pressure regulator that gives me great air regulation when painting HVLP. It is amazing the difference a good air regulator will make. The pressure and volume of a precision regulator is amazing.
I found this video very interesting. I've never used a real sprayer before but I I'd like to learn how to do it for my own projects.
Very helpful video, thank you. Subscribed. I've always used rattle cans, and have had good results, but I waste a lot of paint. So, bought the Harbor Freight spray gun and am working on moisture filters now. I have an old jukebox cabinet I'm painting flat black with Rustoleum, but the kicker here is that I need to sprinkle gold glitter over the paint job while the paint is wet, enough to make the glitter stick. Painting this outside, and will use mineral spirits to help the paint stay wet a little longer. Probably do it when it's 50-60 degrees out. After it's painted and glittered up, it'll get matte clear over it. Think I'd better practice the whole procedure on a piece of plywood first, to see how well this is going to work.
Thanks for the tips and mix ratios, you’ve inspired me to pickup my HVLP again over buying the rattle cans.
Probably the best instructional video on how to mix paint.
Thanks for the compliment
I've been spraying for years as a hobby. I learned a lot of great tips! Great job!
Thanks for the feedback!
This is by far the best video I've seen on this!
Best spraying video ever. Thank you for the excellent education.
Dang man, as a total beginner this was a HUGE help. I personally went with the store bought reducer and catalyst (picked up both at Tractor Supply) worked wonderfully! Thanks!
P.s. clean your gun well!
I learned a lot about mixing Rust-Oleum I mix it 4 3 1 and I used the catalyst and the Japanese dry
Hey thanks for the video. I've always been fascinated by these low budget paint jobs for some reason. I pretty much knew everything you said in here only thing different would be the overlap. I always did 50% but I will do a 70% next time I spray just to see how it goes.
I am doing this very thing right now. Painting my Bronco with kubota orange tractor paint. It isn't high gloss like a bc/cc job, but it looks really good for what it is.
Helpful tips. I got a few things that i need to paint this weekend. Will use these tips when mixing and spraying rustolium. See if it turns out better.
i bought the same spray gun, and am near finishing repainting my old toyota... GREAT video. Thank you so much!
Basically everything I need to know to get started. Great job!
Great Video; Very informative; I do have a couple of questions; What are the cons for using "Rustoleum" (assuming enamel base) paint in automotive applications vs the standard acrylic urethane based paint? I already know of one; chemical susceptibility; i.e gasoline will wash it off. I don't know if that changes if you catalyzed Rustoleum (I didn't know you could do that). Also can you clear coat over Rustoleum paint with automotive clear system (catalyzed clear)? I.e.will the clear stick to it, last, look good, etc? The motivation of course would be to protect the paint from chemicals and UV light.
Thanks so much, been using an hvlp gun for years on shop projects, your video taught me a lot.
Will be much less frustrating in the future.
Thanks, good luck!
I have watched a lot of videos on youtube. I would have to say I have gotten way more out of this one. I'm pretty new to painting and trying to learn as much as I can. All your tips are awesome, all the way down to touching the paint with your finger nail, not leaving a finger print.
Great video mate best technique and tips I've seen in one video, thanks for sharing.
I sprayed some Rust-Oleum thru a Binks #7 spray gun last week, results were excellent. I was not sure if hardner was comparable with Rust-Oleum so Ididn't add. I thined the paint to 20 seconds in a old Dupont metering cup, same as thining Centari acrylic enamel. ALWAYS wear a n95 respirator with organic vapor Niosh cartridges if using hardner /catylist. Thanks for the great video.
This video is pure gold
So is this comment^
Wow! What a fantastic video showing the basics of how and what to do to spray paint using an HVLP gun
Very well done video. Solid informationon mixing and gun adjustment. The sequence of setting your pattern before mixing paint makes sense and saves paint. Maybe a little information on how much compressor is needed for the HVLP gun would be helpful to some before buying one of those guns.
this is from another website: (googled ''adjusting air pressure hvlp spray gun"}
HVLP Air Pressure Setting for Base Coat Clear Coat (High Volume Low Pressure)
When spraying base coat clear coat systems, you want to spray at 26-29 PSI. You measure this PSI by pulling the trigger and letting air flow through the tip of your gun with your dial or digital readout saying 26-29 PSI.
When spraying clear coat I usually like to up the pressure 2-3 psi for a little more atomization and better flow out. 28-29 PSI being the sweet spot in my opinion.
Most HVLP spray guns will use up 10-14 scfm (air volume) at 40 psi. (Volume of air pressure per cubic foot).
another option - th-cam.com/video/6eoFYTp98XE/w-d-xo.html
HVLP setup - th-cam.com/video/Vx4Mydjaxug/w-d-xo.html
When pouring your paint can use a wide piece of tape half way around the can and half way up. Makes it easier to pour and less mess. Also tap a small hole in the outer rim of the can and the material will flow back into the can.
Wow very good video great explanations thanks
thanks for watching. Glad it could help
Dude you are a paint mastermind. You saved the day.
Thank you for your times to show us that valuable information about paint job like this. My personal have learn a lot from your video! Once. Thanks
This has been the best by far tutorial that I have seen regarding paint and the process. I am no doubt twice your age & it is wonderful to learn from younger people who take pride in their profession. I have always wanted to . I have always wanted to use a spray gun of which I have two new ones sitting in the boxes and been extremely leery on trying them until now. thank you very much, all the best on your endeavors in life, I know you will do very well.
Thank you very much. I always appreciate knowing that video did indeed help another person with their project. Its always good to know the effort that goes into these videos is worth it.
This is a fantastic video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
I'm not sure if you will see this knowing how old this video is, but I use Rustoleum rattle cans a lot on bare steel and cast iron with body shop results. The key is etching your work piece with acid like Lime-Away or a 50% diluted of Muriatic Acid and water for up to an hour if rust is present, wash it off with plenty of water, wash it again with 91% Alcohol, dry it with compressed air, and pre-heat your work piece to 150 degrees before spraying. The paint sticks immediately like glue, no chance for runs, and cures rather quickly, less than an hour. Pre-heating your workpiece makes your paint self level like it cam out of a body shop. Hope this helps guys. Use an infrared thermometer to know the proper temp. :) I restore vintage cast iron machinery from post WW2 with amazing results, you just have to remove the rust in an acid bath so it's back to raw cast iron or steel. The outcome is truly amazing.
Thanks man. I plan on painting my kitchen cabinets with a new spray gun I just bought. Your tips will come handy. BTW good video.
Great video. Your the first one I see using catalyst. I will be painting a few car parts and just got a gun, air regulator, water filter , mesh strainers ect
Cool. Good luck! In my recent metal shear video I used a product called "japan drier" it speeds up dry times significantly. Check it out! Thanks for watching.
th-cam.com/video/Hk76eo7OHi0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you. You did a wonderful job on content and presentation. You should do this for a living.
I learned a lot about Rust-Oleum through a painted cars with lacquer and run water oil base but I'm on a budget now I learned how to good mixed ratio and I've been also throwing 2K clear and I intercoat I added pearls and metallics to the rust only them and it looks great thank you
THANK YOU! Usable info, proper instruction. Really appreciate you sharing your knowledge.
Liked and subscribed!
Thanks Bruce!
I just saw this video and I was impressed with the way you explain each detail in such a simple easy way to follow. I learned a great deal by watching your video. Thank so much for taking the time to share with us your knowledge and know how.
Very good job on this video. Good instructions, on mixing ratios. In general, I like rust oleum paint, it's good paint at a very reasonable price. I just subbed.👍
That was one of the best Rustomleum paint videos I've seen yet.
I use Rustoleum allot around the shop on Hot Rods, Rat Rods, and Metric Bobbers I build.
I prefer to do the chassis with Rustoleum Paint simply because it is durable, it's cheap in comparison to automotive paints and Lacquers.
I spent a long time trying to figure out how to spray it consistently through trial and error but now I get surprisingly good results and really like the way it lays down.
I will use the information you provided in this video to step it up a notch and maybe use it on body panels and gas tanks for the Bobbers to see just how well it can be applied.
Thanks for the great educational video.
Thanks for the great comment, I always enjoy reading about what people use rustoleum on and how it best works for them.
The TEXAS NAVY uses it on all their carrier fleet ships to piss off the tree huggers...
Super useful video. I like your style! New to the channel and very much enjoying a quite morning exploring your content. 👍🏻
Damn you man, why couldn’t I have found this video sooner. From the over spray technique to the doors with the barrel hinges. Thanks for putting this together!
thanks for the info well appreciated. like how you take the time to explain your the man.
THANKS MY MAN!!! YOU ARE VERY THOROUGH ABOUT EXPLAINING YOURSELF. I WANNA JUST LET YOU KNOW THAT I APPRECIATE YOUR EXPERTISE ON SPRAYING OUT OF A SPRAY GUN AND THE TIPS ON ALL MIXING INSTRUCTIONS THANKS A MILLION BROTHER MUCH LOVE AND RESPECT. KEEP UP THE GREAT TUTORIALS THEY DO HELP THE LESS EXPERIENCED SPRAYERS AS MYSELF...100% 👍👍👍
Awesome! Local paint shop I use, where I single stage paint jobs, won't give info out on Rust-Oleum. I thought I would try it out on my daily beater. On painting bumper covers, do I need an Adhession spray before paint? Thanks!
On plastic it is always good to use an adhesion promoter. You may also want to look into a flex agent. plastic parts sometimes require it.
Thanks Mr. Build. You live in Cali? I lived all over So Cal from San Fran to San Diego, and all points in between. Was in 70s to 80s. Lot less congested and Laid Back. Live in Phoenix now. Thanks for your response.
I live in the country, and some people here just use a brush and roller for their old truck, or whatever they are trying to keep from rusting. It doesn't look as shiny as a nice acrylic enamal with clear or whatever is getting used now. But, it doesn't look that bad either, and not shiny is ok if you have a bunch of dents. Plus, there is not much waste from overspray. Probably wouldn't work on your porsche or mercedes though if you live in the city ... I use black rustoleum on my truck frame and undercarriage, because a lot of salt gets used to melt snow, and that seems to work pretty good where rocks and sand wore the original paint off. Just use a quart with a paint bush and old clothes, and get under the truck for an hour. I'd use a gun though if I was doing the body.
Great Video! Informative and easy to follow, subscribed.
Great video. Not exactly "budget", though. It's not the paint, gun, or even the chemicals and hoses that add up and ruins the budget aspect. It's the powerful enough air compressor and big enough tank. If more people had that we'd probably have fewer rattle can videos.
All good points. Id put a decent compressor at the top of the list for anyone looking to do some DIY car projects. They're never a bad investment.
Is a compressor that expensive?
I bought a 12gal one at a pawn shop. One of the prongs was broken on the plug, the cheap plastic hose was broken and it was attached with a compression fitting. They wanted $100 for it and after pointing out all of that plus the need to add a flow control valve to it I got them down to $45.
I then went to harbor freight and picked up the flow control valve, some quick disconnects, and 100 feet of 3/8 inch hose.
Total investment is still under $90.
To be honest, it is one of the most used tools in my shop. I use it with impact guns, paint guns, nail guns, staple guns, etc, etc, etc. Heck, my wife will put the air sprayer nosal on it and use it to clean out dust from inside stuff like the gaming system. It even gets used to air up tires on the vehicles. Have you seen what gas stations charge to put air in a tire?
If you watch the harbor freight sales you can get a lot of the pneumatic tools for cheap as well.
I agree with UnitedStatesofBuild, if you have a DIY shop it is never a bad investment!
Thanks for this comment Grandpa's Place. Every DIY garage/shop will benefit from having a decent compressor. Check your local Classifieds, Craigslist, offerUP, FB Marketplace, Garage sales and even Pawn shop like Grandpa points out. YOU WONT REGRET owning a GOOD compressor!
Grandpa's Place Unfortunately you need at minimum 10cfm compressor, maybe more with hvlp gun. They’re generally 60 gallon or larger air compressors. So $800 or more?
6cfm at 40psi for this gun, relatively low. Thats not uncommon for a 12 gallon unit to put out.
Thanks for the great video. I'm repainting my car trailer next year and think its time i finally try out my cheap paint gun after watching this because rattle cans would be way too much
HIM: "Keep that wet spot wet."
Me: "That's what she said."
classic
Awesome dude. Thanks for the valuable information... I'm doing the same thing, trying to keep the rust off my welding projects at home
Thanks for this video--it helps me.