Chevy 4.8L 5.3L 6.0L timing chain oil pump water pump harmonic balancer removal Code P0521
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 พ.ค. 2020
- Low oil pressure fix. 1999-2013 #HowTo change replace install remove repair Chevy 5.3L oil pump timing chain water pump harmonic balancer removal and thermostat without removing oil pan low oil pressure fix check engine light trouble code P0521 how to time engine timing marks oil pressure gauge drops below 10psi step by step tutorial labor guide on removing the timing cover and replacing timing tensioner timing chain and oil pump while engine is still in car. Chevrolet Suburban in this vid was model year was 2008 5.3L. Oil pump trick works for 6.0L 4.8L as well. Avalanche Silverado Tahoe GMC Sierra Cadillac Escalade. Low oil pressure problems? Try changing the oil pickup tube o-ring. Replace oil pump, how to fix low oil pressure 5.3L LS1
How to Replace Chevrolet front main seal, crank seal, crankshaft seal
installation #DIY #Cars Mechanic
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of FerKurl, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. FerKurl assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. FerKurl recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of FerKurl, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not FerKurl. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
This in another one of GM's engineered (college education at its best) s**thole designs. This clearly goes to show how they put NO though into servicing their products (AGAIN). If I was the CEO, I would be embarrassed beyond words that field mechanics have to get this creative to fix "our products". I would rather craw into a dumpster and let the rats eat me alive.
Richard, GREAT JOB!, you and a few others have figured out how to get around this pathetic design flaw, which I am sure GM has NOT fixed. Tragic.
I have the option to attempt this procedure, I fail, I'll pull the engine. Just more money the client will end up paying. Again, tragic.
Lol GM never even made an effort to do shit about their faulty ignition switches, scary shit when you're going 70mph on the freeway or making a left turn. Definitely miss my F150 with the 4.6 V8. Cheap and easy to work on and I got nearly 500k on the original motor.
@@AltruisticWarrior easy to work on? The 4.6 is bigger pain in the ass to work on than an LS. You must of never done anything to series with it. Hell changing Spark plugs is 3 times easier on an LS than Fords mod motor.
I would rather work on GM small block than that Ford DOHC SOHC junk any day of the week. Many a hot rods got LS’s drop in them. Way more simple and easy to work on. Fords are stupid. You gotta pull the whole cab off to get the engine out. It’s the quickest easiest way to do it.
@@AltruisticWarrior lol ls engines will outlast a garbage triton engine all day. Ls engines are super easy to work on. If your talking about the pickup tube it’s really not a big deal pulling the pan I’ve done a few of them. I’d much rather tear an ls down than a rattling triton with all their timing chain and overhead cams. If you got 500,000 out of a 4.6 I assure you that’s very rare lol. Ls engines are fantastic. If the triton is so amazing why is every swap you see an ls swap? Triton engines are horrible. Cam followers make rattling noises, timing chains slap the covers, that’s why they made reusable gaskets on the timing covers. They’re gutless unless you have lots of hearing behind them. I’ll stick with my ls.
Man you said it damit
dont forget to prime this pump using the priming plug in the side of the block (see melling oil pump priming video). Also, dont forget to line up your timing cover by installing the balancer before tightening the timing cover bolts first. this centers the balancer in the new seal and wont wear your seal prematurely. Great vid with great tricks though!
Sounds like that guy in the shop that reminds everyone not to forget basic stuff lol. Don’t forget this, make sure you did that or this gone happen lol
@@Leekautorepair It good to have a guy in the shop that reminds everyone because a lot of people would not know this, to many know it all in the shop.
Superb video, step by step explanations, along with some great tricks. Very informative!
Dude I just wanna say, you have the BEST video on doing this. I literally watched certified mechanics doing the same oil pump removal and they wasted so much time. I’m not dropping my front differential to remove the pump, thank you for showing a clear alternative method. 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
Thanks 👍
I am doing this myself and I was like 😱 WTF but all of your tips make life so much easier ! 🙏 Thank God for your advice and thank you for sharing
Thank you sooo much for the kind words. Appreciate you
Whoever designed the oil pump system for this engine clearly loves assembling ships inside bottles in their free time. Awesome job man! 👍
Thanks for all the tips and tricks. I’m about to replace my oil pump and your video really helps!!
Did you get the bolt off the pick up?
I don't typically comment but you do very well with instruction videos like this.
you're the man with all the tips to get the pickup bolt in and out.
Wonder if you got a wide rubber band around that bolt once you got it started and used it like a belt to tighten it up until you’re able to get the wrench around it.
I know this is an older video, but you did a great job of showing and explaining. I've watched several videos on this because I'm about to tackle this project on a 4x4 2500 silverado, and I was not looking forward to dropping the diff. I think I'll try this and pray I don't drop the tube bolt.
Appreciate the Guidance! Much Respect. Stay blessed!
Thank you. Very well presented. Greetings from Calgary, Canada.
Best youtube video ive ever seen on some mechanic ish and I'm not only saying this because i have to do this bs job before winter comes... Thank you 🙏🏽
Yup ,I did this job on my SS. Took the time to get it all clean and properly torqued. No oil pressure (primed the pump as described by melling) took back apart to find I shoved the O ring out the side when putting the pump in (BE EXTRA MINDFUL OF THE O RING WHEN DOING THIS) bummer of a day for me.
Yea oring is the number one cause of low oil pressure in these.
Hi Fred, I first want to say your video is awesome. I think the way you took out and replaced the pick up tube bolt is so very clever. Great job. The only other time I seen someone do the pump without taking the pan down is they cut the key way on the flange with a dremel and spun it to the upper bolt. You also used a bolt with a washer. Is there a reason you didn’t just go with that? Is one bolt not enough? Cause it seems that would have worked too I think. But very clever, I thank you for your effort and posting this I feel much more confident in trying it because of you. 🖐🏻🇺🇸🍀
Thank you sir! you saved my live 👍
The little scissors with the plyer grips are called forceps I believe. I use them for all kinds of stuff.
Great video, you really give detailed information.
Great video, im working on mine now. Ive gotten to the part where i dropped my wrench into the pan. Sprayed my front dif. just in case i end up dropping it to get my pan out.
THATS THE BEST PART 😂
I looked this up because I'm about to replace my oil pump, and was told that a certain someone wouldnt do it for me... so, I'm a big girl, I'll look it up. Thanks for the tips n tricks.
I hear you. My wife won't help me
This isn't a back yard do it yourself this is a major repair
Definitely a big job but with the right knowledge, tools, and some patience, anyone can get it done. Hopefully you were able to accomplish the task!
To make the bolt easier to reinstall, I tied a slip knot with 10# fishing line and looped it around the last 2 threads of the bolt. Then ran the tag/loose end thru the hole in the flange and thru the pump bolt hole flange. Fish the line behind the pump and tie a weight to it so the line hangs over the front of the oil pump. This will pull the bolt up into the hole and hold it there while you start the threads with hemostat. I also disassembled the pump and installed in pieces, it fits easier over crank. Remember to prime the new pump, there is a Melling video on this.
Awesome comment. Never thought of using fishing line!
Out of all the video's. His was the most helpful.😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊
thanks for your video. It makes me very interesting and also educational to teach us. I saw it all and if I put it into practice and it worked. it was so easy. but something caught my attention in your video. between minute 8 with 53 seconds and 8 min. with 55sec. It sounds like a whisper. I don't know much English but I did hear something.
Yea you right alguien habla someone talk so slow
@@elperronegro9595 si. Curioso verdad. But I don't know what it say.
Thanks for the video. My 05 has a timing cover leak so I've been researching and watching videos before I dig into this lol. From what I've read and seen the hardest part seems to be torquing down that harmonic balancer. I do my own vehicle maintenance but I'm not looking forward to this lol
jas I don’t mind doing these. Biggest pain is the oil pump if you’re not removing the oil pan as well. Some other timing jobs are a headache, this one ain’t too bad
@@FerKurl yeah my truck has 165k miles and runs great. But I was thinking about replacing the timing chain & gear, the oil pump, and the harmonic balancer while I'm in there. I have to pull the oil pan anyways since its leaking at the front passenger side.
@@Mr.G626 how did it go i have a z71 and i think i need to tackle mthis job this weekend. Ive been chasing this leak for weeks. Any suggestions?
@@juanchoman9824 i haven't had the time to do it yet, but i plan on doing it sometime in december and i have been researching it. you will need a 3 jaw harmonic balancer puller and install tool, a timing cover/seal alignment tool, and a new crank bolt. And if you can, find a flywheel locking tool that bolts in place of the starter, they're available on amazon. also, use quality gaskets, do not cheap out lol. my leak is very minor as i'm not losing a noticeable amount as of yet.
Thank you for this
I just did this job all you had to do is drop the oil pan down and the little but can be reached with a ten rinch I had no problem 👍
Man if he would of said lower the oil pan a little i would not have this gas can a lighter in my hand . Three mf days trying to line up this 10milla bolt created all kind of shit that failed. Then we look at pan an said a inch would make it so much easier . We where looking for others that where cussing him that and saw what you said and agreed . We noticed he did not show how he put bolt in.
@@kennyKINSEY34 the job was so easy move the pan down you ok
Do you think will work on a 2007 chevy
You drop the oil pan only a inch then now the gasket needs replaced how did you go about doing that?
@@FireRuby999 some how I was lucky it turned out perfect I'm still driving no leaks
excellent but en lo personal no me gusta batallar por eso yo quito todo lo que me estorbe. Thanks good 👍 job.
Hey I'm needing some advice on this. I can't get my crank to line up. I rotated it slowly had a guy help me and can't get it either. Off by a tooth. When I opened it up the tensioners were already broken. I heard something about taking spark plugs out? But can't find anything on iy
Looking at it I was horrified...seems like a big hassle..but I got it done....was not as bad as I thought., wouldn't have been as easy w out this vid.,thx...I also put small hose on airline and blew air down pickup tube w oil pan bolt out...poured some seafoam down first...on my last LS the pickup tube was real dirty and I just blew out w air and it cleaned r out...but there was some restriction in the tube....some crap did come out of pan that was empty after blew out...I dumped a gt of mystery oil thru it just see....there was gunk in tube.....only take a few min and I think was worth the extra 5 bucks to do....
Love this
Myself & Q were just talking about this yesterday. Called it a "harmonic convertor"~getting older & more forgetful!
just curious why you didnt replace crank sprocket and cam while in there doing a chain replacement?
Great job
Now when I turn it over it sounds like a motor with no compression and won't start, no codes and mine is a 2000 without a tensioner. I have it all most tore down again to see if the chain jumped a tooth but, I thought that the new chain from Amazon had a lot of slack in it.
How do you know if you have to replace the timing chain, or is it a since your already here might as well type of deal?
What parts do you Recommend just changing While everything is taken apart. Water pump? Pressure sensor?..what else would be good?
Dude what a great video! It's came in handy quite a bit for me!! Thank you! Working on a 2002 Z71 Suburban 4x4. (Replacing oil pump with out lowering differential and dropping pan)I decided to take a Dremel to the feeder tube bracket and and rotate it 180degrees. I thought in doing this would be a ticket to easy street. I am currently having trouble getting the damn feeder tube bracket flush with the pump. The only reason I spun the bracket around in the first place was to try to avoid that lower bolt. I reckon I will have to use a washer to bring up the slack like in your video. ***Do you remember how you were able to get that feedertube bracket lower bolt back started? I had to use fishing string to get the damn thing out in the first place. : )
Patience is key and small hands help a lot. You can bend a wrench to work perfectly for ya or use magnets or fishing line
@@FerKurl Man I'm 6' 5" 300 pounds lol, where theres a will a Hillbilly MacGyver some fishing line and a magnet. Thanks for the advice and the video FerKurl!
They make a bracket that utilizes that extra bolt hole at the oil pick up. Useing that instead of even messing with trying to put it in the back. When I do my pan gasket I'll reach up and throw the other bolt in it and make it bullet proof. Bracket is like $30 bucks.
Thanks for the video. That damned bolt.... That damned bolt.
I said if I do my water pump.. might as well just keep going ..
Gm pit plenty of thoughts how to make difficult and half to take it to a dealership to fix it
You didn’t center the timing cover using the crankshaft damper before tightening the cover bolts ??
So I’m in the process of doing my timing chain I found this part from melling that will help with the pickup tube. Part # m29500 hope this helps everyone with this pita.
Hi did you use this part and not install the original bolt on the right? Thanks
Seeing other videos , it appears that the bracket on the oil pickup tube is not solid. Why can't you just turn it the other way and put the bolt in, instead of trying to wiggle that bolt back up in there?
need to be very patient getting that 10mm off the oil tube , it took me several hours but it's off hopefully i can get it back on ,
I’ve done lots of em so not nearly that long for me 😆 experience helps! You can invest in a thin adjustable end ratcheting 10mm to save time. Fishing line is another trick that works!
What brand oil pump and timing did you use?
what can cause sudden oil pressure loss. I started my truck (5.3 chevy avalanche 4wd) and had no oil pressure/oil warning came on. Oil level checked good. Restarted the engine a few times and oil pressure returned. I dont think it was a bad sending unit because I was starting to hear a little bit of valve tapping/clacking before the oil pressure returned on the third restart. Was starting to get really alarmed. Is the oil pump dump valve sticking you think? Truck has 190K, and oil was just changed the day before this problem occurred.
I was hoping the o-ring was the trouble, but after I got the pump out, the relief valve was slightly stuck from varnish. At that point, I just bought a new Melling and put it in.
I just did this on a 2014 5.3 I dropped the pan I had metal from the pump internals in the pan but if I didn't I think I could do it without dripping the pan but I wouldn't risk it
If you have Fuel management lifters; the fuel management oil manifold gives many problems making oil pressure go to zero after a few minutes with no tell-tale signs of engine knocking because the issue is at the top oil management manifold.
How do u know?
@@jonbartlett5281 I am a tech, I've already ran into this problem. first, there is a small screen filter under oil sender that gets plugged up, especially on oil change neglected engines.
Where do you buy the parts ??
Reason why oil pump will not prime or loose prime ??
How do you know when you need a new timing chain? I hear a buzzing and whining noise on mine.. Thought it was the water pump but I still hear them sounds.
Did you ever find out what the buzzing and whining noise was? I have 2018 Chevy v6 Silverado and I have all the belts off and start it up for 10sec and making that buzzing and whining noise from inside the timing cover behind the balancer.
I just put together my 2010 5.3, it has ignition coils not a distributor. Is there a timing procedure that I must do before firing it up? All I can find anywhere has engines with distributor caps. And my balancer doesn’t have any markings. I rotated until my valves are closed (valve springs not compressed). What else should I do to ensure my engine will run properly?
No timing to be done. Line up the marks on the crank and cam sprocket as shown in the video
Don't worry about the balancer --- it has nothing to do with the timing and the timing isn't adjustable anyway! Just put the balancer back on and use the proper tool to draw it back on --- do NOT uses a hammer! The center bolt is reusable if you put new RTV Red sealer just under the head before your get it into the end of the crank.
I think when I do this in my ‘burb I’m going to remove the radiator and grill, and possibly the PS cooler. I think it would make for a bit more comfortable job
True that
Absolutely no need to do all this really doing it right now and there’s plenty of room
@@nicksampson7610 Thankyou, that’s good to know. Spring of last year I did the rear main on my truck, so all in all this looks like an easier job
I put a piece of tie wire around the bolt after I backed it out a little
Question how did you torque the camshaft bolt? Without the engine turning?
Here’s a great video yo show ya how th-cam.com/video/C4KCwnRmWhM/w-d-xo.html
Also you can keep the engine from turning by putting a pry bar on the flywheel/flex plate or using a ratchet on the front of the crank with the bolt installed but the video shows the proper best way. Thx for watching!
Hello. Did you use any sealant for any of your gaskets? I’m planning on taking of the oil pan because mine is only a 2 wheel drive. Do you recommend any sealant for the oil pan gasket?
I use aluminum gaskets with rubber built in on these jobs. No rtv/sealant needed. Except where stated in vid, you’re doing oil pan so you’re good to go
@@FerKurl sounds good. I’ll be doing the same process as you and replacing all of the same things except I’ll remove the oil pan so I don’t have to fight the one bolt for the oil pump. Just didn’t know if I should use any gasket sealant anywhere.
Coo coo. I made myself a custom wrench for these jobs now. Lil heat, bench vise, n hammer. Now that bolt is a breeze compared to the ole days
thanks
My timing marks don’t line up they are off by a tooth is that ok? Or how do I straighten them up?
Can I just turn the crank to 12 and then remove the chain and turn the cam to 6? Please advice
“Off a tooth” is not good enough. Turn the crank clockwise until they get as close as possible, take the old chain off, line the marks up, install new chain. When everything is installed triple check the marks are still lined up
@FerKurl can someone help me? What’s. A timing damper? Is that the same as a timing tensioner?
Edwin Belmont Engine Timing Damper Kits remove unnecessary slack from the timing chain to help prevent chain rattle and excessive component wear
Yea in the video I call it tensioner
Those are called hemostats , fancy name for surgical pliers.
I thought they were called roach clips.
😂@@bklynrizz714
Haha I'm about to do this with my truck
U should look into a ratchet box end and get come brake cleaner and clean that job better. JMO great video tho
All my racket wrenches are straight. Oh how I’ve thought of heating the 10mm up and putting a bend in it! 😂
Is there a oring gasket that goes on the out port of the oil pump? I have no oil pressure with new pump, New pickup oring... But I know I forgot an oring gasket somewhere by looking at the orings I took off. It was just such a long day and I don't remember and I started my project by taking the oil pan off to inspect the pickup tube. Found no issues and moved towards oil pump. My oil pressure stayed around 40 most of the time but not always. Then recelty my lifters got noisy and I quickly changed to 10w30, which silenced the noisy lifters. Until the other day when I hammered on it pulling my 5th wheel camping trailer.. Anyhoo TIA!
Brian Tima no oring on the out-side of the pump, only between pickup tube and in-side. Check your oil pressure directly with a gauge. Pressure sensor could not be reading
FerKurl thanks again! I opened her back up today and found that I didn’t get the pickup tube tight against the oil pump.
Brian Tima glad you got er figured out!
a new pump has to be primed by removing the priming bolt in the side of the block. see melling oil pump priming vid.
@@FerKurl When you take the oil pressure sending unit out --- there's a small filter/screen directly below it that gets crapped-up too and needs to be replaced. It is a very common auto parts store part.
I’m guessing this is a Gen 4 Vortec. I have a 5.3 out of an 01 and the timing is completely different. One being there is no tensioner or guide.
'08 would be Gen IV yes
This is true up to, and including my 2005 5.3 Silverado.
I already replaced my pick up tube o ring, and don’t want to pull the pan again. I’ll have to drain the oil to get the pump off though right?
Still draining the radiator fluid right now.
I don't know why you don't do the oil pan gasket since you doing the front of the motor. It would have been so much easier that way
New chain old sprockets? I don’t think that’s right.
My sentiments most of the time unless it’s worn really bad I don’t replace the timing chain also you can take a drimmel retool and grind off that tab or lip opposite of the bolt on the oil pick up tube and it’ll go back in easy spin it 180 you got it now
My timing gear is rubbing the camshaft sensor. You ever seen something like that and how can i fix it?
Thx in advance
Yea I’ve seen that before. Wrong cam sprocket install that is almost identical at first glance. Wrong parts. Wrong/longer sensor. Bent cam sprocket, so it wobbles as it spins, enough to graze the sensor. Sprocket installed reverse or not seated flush
@@FerKurl 10-4 thank you so much!
@@FerKurl *update... So upon inspection i noticed the cam sprocket not seated correctly on the cam. Thank goodness i didn't have a major catastrophe because of it.
I took everything apart and reset the timing. Now she starts with noooo problem.
Again thx for the input.
I hope you replaced the pickuptube seal! Great video partner! Can you say goober on you tube?
I think so 🤔
What happen if got no filter under oil pressure sensor?
Oof! Should be there. It’s hard to see and/or feel for but should be down in there. I have a video on that if u wanna check it out
Why not just pull the oil pan? I have to do this on my 07 tahoe and I appreciate your video very informative however I'm dropping the oil pan . That bolt looks frustrating. Lol
Good call 👍
Did you have to use a flywheel holding tool?
Brian Prioleau nope
132K views! That's a record
How did you take out and put in that one pos bolt on the bottom passenger side of timing cover ?
Not sure what your referring to. It’s it not turning or hard to get to? Can you be more specific? Always down to help!
Snap-On 1/4" drive flex, short 10mm socket.
I've done plenty of LS oil pumps with engine out of the vehicle, I wonder if you take the pump apart if that would give you more room to slightly pull the pump upward to gain a little more access to oil pump pick up tube??? anybody ever try that? will it work??
Yes --- I just did it that way. Take everything out of the aluminum pump housing --- be sure to mark the surfaces that are on the outside so you can put them back in the way they were installed ---- might not be necessary --- but you can't be too careful.
Then when you go to put the pieces back inside the housing, you need to put a 0.0015"-0.0020" feeler gauge in the rotor housing at 180° from each other --- between it and the aluminum housing --- to guarantee that you have enough clearance when you bolt the oil pump back to the block with those 4 bolts.
I rotated the pickup tube hold down bracket 180° to use the other bolt hole in the pump.... so much easier to put it back together too. Just use a Dremel cutoff wheel to remove the top of the alignment device that's spot welded to the tube .... spin the hold-down bracket and bolt it down.
@@SurferJoe46 I have an oil pump to do on a Silverado next, I'm going to give it try.
Thanks for the info!!!
Is there any reason not to buy one of those 20 buck braces and skip the factory bolt?
Bryce Gossett are we talking about the pickup tube to the oil pump here?
Ya it would seem that so long as you had that clamped up from the outside bolt using the aftermarket brace that you’d seal the o ring. It’s suction side after all not pressure. And not saying your washer stack but the machined part they sell to reinforce this connection
Bryce Gossett I’ve never seen one of those braces. I’ve always done it this way. Was a pain the first time I did it but now I’ve got it down pat
@@FerKurl Gotcha - not sure it will matter for me, the noise I was thinking was lifter from oil pressure I suspect to be a rod knock, weird because its loud at low idle and quieter at RPM. But I dumped in about 3 extra quarts of oil and jacked up the rear of the truck with no change so not thinking its that O-ring. But these braces are machined with a step for that flange and a screw for the other hold. Almost thinking if I needed to do this job that it might make sense to just use a brace with no second screw at all.
pbgd3 I had to rip apart a suburban a couple years newer. Had active fuel management lifters, one was bad on drivers side,making an awful loud ticking at idle. Check your oil pressure mechanically to eliminate oil pressure as a cause
Don't forget to Replace the Cam Thrust Plate
Where are you located sir
Hey ferkurl
How did you take the camshaft bolt off. Mines is on there good and i couldn’t get it off with the impact gun. I will try the fly wheel and pry bar and use a ratchet to break free. Im just afraid something will turn!!
try a little heat maybe? or better impact/compressor
@@FerKurl alittle heat did the trick!!
Is it wise to Replace the Timing chain when Replacing the water and oil pumps?
oil pump yes, water pump maybe
Could you just used the left side bolt now only ?
Possibly
How many pounds on the timing cover( bolts)?
My torque specifications chart covers nearly every bolt on this engine but doesn’t specify timing cover bolts. Most the random M8 M10 specify 18 ft lbs. sorry for the late reply
Did u leave the bolt with the washer in there?
Nope
fer blew up
Hello, What oil pump did you go with?
dont remember, always go premium
My ls2 has good oil pressure at start but drops to about 15 psi at idle. Do you think it's the oil pump??
Pressure should be 20-30 at idle. I’ve seen sea foam motor treatment bring these oil pumps back to life especially followed by Lucas oil stabilizer. Could be a worn/dirty oil pump or the oring starting to fail
@@FerKurl thanks for the reply. I will be installing a new melling pump.
The o-ring is the usual culprit. You'll have to decide for yourself, but as the oil warms, the o-ring will allow air into the suction side of the pickup tube easier and easier as the viscosity changes.
@@SurferJoe46 has anyone tried AT-205 to increase the swell on the o ring of the pick up tube would it work?
1999-2016
People lower the oil pan just a little and put the gas can and lighter down . Its not worth it there good rides im glad I snapped out of it . Im back on the road and not in fire jail
13:55. You sounded like the joker from the dark knight.
Is it recommended to replace the harmonic balancer bolt? Is it a stretch bolt?
Always recommended
Go with an ARP bolt
Ps. Get the right harmonic puller there is only one kind to use northern tools had it .
Zip tie works better!
Not bad
You conveniently skipped pass how you got that harmonic balancer bolt out I have never had one come out easily? I was curious to see how you got it out but you just zoomed right past that??
Zipped it right off with an air tool easy peasy. If you don’t have air tools then lock the flywheel so the harmonic don’t spin
I used my Mapp torch and heated the head of the bolt for 3 or 4 minutes --- not glowing hot --- just very hot ... and it came right out.
Nice 🤘
Has anyone ever tried lifting the motor off the motor mounts(shimed with 2×4s on the frame) to drop the oil pan?
Yes I have !
@@omarhernandez7907 I ended up pulling the motor out. Bad crank shaft.
That's OK --- but the exhaust crossover and about 4 feet of exhaust pipe still has to come out --- and therein lies the old snapped-off bolts in the header flanges! Don't poke the bears!
@@SurferJoe46 oh those damn header bolts got me good!
Just need to loosen the pan so it drops an inch in front.
how many miles were on this engine?
Can’t remember exactly but I wanna say about 170k
Sir that is not a crescent wrench 😅
What size gun did you use to pull the Jesus bolt? I heated with a torch few times. Hitting it with a 1000 ft-lbs gun. Aint budging. Any tips on this thing. Besides praying to Jesus in Christmas Day 🎄 which I did btw
UPDATE: okay Hail Mary full of grace I got the bolt out. Heated with Map gas and let cool about 4 times. And hit it with short blasts each time with a Kobalt air compressor 1000 ft-lb gun. And it came lose!
On to harmonic balancer puller
UPDATE TO THE UPDATE: so harmonic balancer came off with the smallest three pronged puller from harbor freight . I rented the Chrysler one from auto zone. It it won’t work! The Rod that come with it is too small!! The 4” one harbor freight works teeth to the inside that grabs behind the Center of the wheel. Feel with your fingers, there are three grooves.
Okay then on to the timing chain cover, there are ten bolts , two on bottom facing upward.
Then oil pump, 4 -10mm bolts no big deal, then the dreaded pick up tube bolt! With Fred’s Cleverness, with a 10mm angled box wrench loosen one two turns. Then it’s magnet time, and I used the open end of the 10mm box wrench and pressed upward lifting the pump slightly and back pressure from the oil pan still in place. And it turned. I chose a thin wire to twist around the bolt when half way out. And it seems even less room than Fred’s video but kept lifting and turning till it was out. And pulled to safety with the thin wire.
Now was easy to press the pickup tube down and lift the pump off, and then take the O-ring off.
So half way done right! Waiting for the pump in mail from autozone.
But I sit and looking at the pump. I can’t physically see anything wrong with it.
And the O-ring, I mean it’s flattened on the sides. But I honestly wish it was in Worse shape. It seems still flexible. Rubbery. 193,000 miles. 2010 Yukon XL Denali. I am scared now it’s not the pump and O-ring. I already did the lifters and top of engine. No oil pressure. Now the pit in your stomach hurts. Could it be the bearings cause of the low pressure!?!?! Ugh idk!! but I’ll put this back together and we shall see if pressure resumes . 😳 Happy New years peeps, 2021.
Haha it be like that sometimes
Update to the UPDATE: okay so a very long road since lifter collapse in the 6th cylinder, 6.2L LS 2010 Yukon XL Denali. Replaced all the lifters on passenger side. Drove a week and then sudden oil pressure drop to almost zero again. Then proceeded to take the front of the engine apart, what else could it be? Thinking oil pump and pick up tube O ring. I proceed like Fred did and got the pump off without baking the oil pan down. Amazingly clever use of the 90 degree magnet. He is so right there is zero room. I used a wire to wrap around the bolt on pick up tube and then the magnet and since u need a flat tool, I used a SCISSOR! To unscrew it the rest of the way. Also you can take a bolt off the front of the old oil pump and use in the other pick up tube thread. It’s the same bolt. I reinstalled and went great leaving the upper tube bolt with a washer in. But to my dismay I put all back together. Making my own harmonic balancer installer with a 16mm threaded rod and washers and bolts.
I started the car and omg, nothing, terrible pressure STILL. And I also packed the oil pump blow off valve with about 4 washers. A lil trick to get a few extra PSI. But nothing. I almost gave up. Thinking bearing or idk what. But then, flushed the engine one more time. Another $50 bucks, and it turns out that SLUDGE!!! These engines build sludge. It finally gave way in the bowels of the engine. And like a pop all of a sudden it came together. And I was pumping at almost 50psi with standard pump with the packed blow off like I said. I also switched back from full synthetic to 10W30 conventional oil. And been few days, 193,000 miles running good. Don’t give up. I had everything seemingly go wrong. Crossed a lot of hurdles. What one man can do another can do. Flush your engine. I did three times! Saul good. Hope some of what I learned helps 🍀🇺🇸🖐🏻
Even if the oring and pump look good they can still be the culprit
Save a lot of forcing the tube away by opening the oil pump and taking everything out of it first! Put the new one in the same way. That way you get lost of up-n-down room to get over the pickup tube and then put it all together afterwards. ... Moving that tube too much might put too much oddball pressure on the new o-ring and that's most likely the same problem that got this whole thing started anyway. Don't poke bears!