SDPC Tech Tips: Oil System Priming
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2021
- Tech discussions about anything oil related can just about come to the point of a physical fight, and oil system priming is no different. That first fire-up can be quite nerve racking, we know this from personal experience, and Nick is here to talk about some options. In the end, go with what you're comfortable with, and what your engine builder recommends if possible. It's not rocket surgery, but it's still an important part of your build!
Parts featured:
Blueprinted Oil Pump: sdparts.com/i-24080613
LS Engine Cradle: sdparts.com/i-23850690
#SDPC #SDPCRaceShop #SDPCTV #TechsualHealing - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Melling recommends that you install the pump leaving the bolts loose, rotate the crank shaft 360° and then tighten the bolts.
That's because warranty is void if you remove the cover to shim. Melling didn't have the 360° spin procedure in the past. I'll shim every time regardless of warranty.
In my opinion it takes 10 minutes to throw some .002 shims in and it’s that piece of mind that it’s done perfect. Definitely worth the extra few minutes.
If you lube it all up with assembly oil it’ll leave almost exactly the same gap as the shims and rotate the crank 360 and prime. Faster easier and ends up with the same results. Just my opinion 😅
Garden pump weed sprayer with a couple brass adapter fittings works great at about $40
Same. Made a TH-cam video about it, even 🤘
Thanks for clearing up the confusion and using facts to carry your point across.
Shimming seems like a good idea. Consider that the crank is not up on the oil film when it is shut down. The crank will center its self in the bearings when spinning on the oil. what about using something like a .003 on top and a .002 on the bottom? .0025 sides? Also the accessory belt will be lifting the crank snout. Oh ya and the blower belt too.
mellings put out a video saying no shimming was necessary...to basically install it loosely and rotate the engine 360 degrees, then tighten the bolts
That's because warranty is void if you remove the cover to shim. Melling didn't have the 360° spin procedure in the past. I'll shim every time regardless of warranty.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Well explained friend thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge.😎👍
Thanks great information no extra sales pitch! That’s how they sell stuff also best stuff best prices and they will help you get what you need. I called them when purchasing a clutch for a build. I couldn’t be happier with the results factory feel hold power well. It was actually 700 dollars less then the one I was looking at too. The salesman informed me that with my power level a stock ls7 clutch was perfect for what I needed and would drive like a factory clutch because it was in fact a factory clutch. Thanks a million this is really a good company.
Awesome content thanks!!
Great video!
The tech I spoke to at Mellings said not to shim a stock motor but performance engine is different.
I use a new garden sprayer , put in three qts oil , hand pump the pressure , then you have a built in valve to regulate the flow while hand turning the engine over while on the engine stand.👍
Same. I even made a video about it
Great information
Awesome, thanks for the advice. Just installed a 364/450 GM crate engine in my C10 and your tech advice was perfect. Thanks.
Glad we could help!
Nice Sir very informative video
I purchased an engine oil accumulator to push oil into the oil passages and never deal w/ a dry start of my precious Corvair engine, as I like to run solid lifters w/ an oil bleed drilled into the lifter body for direct lubrication of those lifters at the cam contact point. It was a bit pricey (~$400 for the accumulator and associated solenoid to actuate the unit), but well worth the peace of mind I have every time I cold start that engine, as well as a safety for oil pressure loss at speed.
I'm doing a AFM delete on my 15 6.2 Silverado , this is my first time in a LS/LT base engine. I have watched videos of guys walking the timing chain onto the top gear to avoid removing the oil pump. I'm concerned about doing it this way. I have read aligning the oil pump can be an issue. I see these alignment tools but not sure how they actually work. Looks like they just do up and down ,not side to side. Any thoughts?
Your videos are a life saver to someone like me. Great information , very much appreciated. 👍👍
Good video 👍🇦🇺
Wow I wish I would have known this when installing a high volume oil pump in my LS 5.3 motor , but great informative information for next time thank you
Did you not prime your new pump?
Did you not prime your new pump
the biggest problem with GM LS engines is the O-ring in the pick up tube cracking .if you spin the motor over to prime the oil system pull the fuse for the fuel pump
Is that to prevent too much fuel from getting inside the piston chambers
Would the fuel relay be removed along with all 8 spark plugs?
Please question:
Without any responsibility on you, Can I use the filter port to push oil to prime the oil pump?
If not Why?
Hi, Thanks for the video. I have the same problem p0016 cam crank correlation error. Did replacing the tensioner fix the issue or was a new timing chain fitted? Thanks in advance.
Will the gravity funnel method work with a GM 3800 series 3 motor letting oil drain into the oil pressure sending unit?
What would be the biggest cause of having too much oil pressure Peaks out to nearly a 100 pounds before It blows the seal on the old filter,,LR4? 4.8
Great vid, priming a dry sump w oil cooler on a ls7? Will the starter spin w plugs out fast enough not seeing pressure? only getting oil out pushrods w oil pump plug hooked up to primer, nervous to start fresh rebuild, thx
If you have oil coming out of all the pushrods, that is an indicator that you've got it pretty well primed. In some cases, you can bump the engine over a few times or hand turn the crank to make sure everything is getting a good coating.
Also make sure to check the oil level in your dry sump tank after it has warmed up!
I wish I ca find this info for 4.7 dodge
Easiest method to remove spark plugs.........not so sure in the f body ls1! Cylinder 6 was a nightmare. Cylinder 8 was actually OK when I went under the car to change it. I have heard of people being able to change the number 8 spark plug from the top. They're more clever or more patient than I was.
I put the oil pump on a 2006 Chevrolet Silversdo 5.3 new at the moment what it does is when I start the engine it takes a little time to raise the oil pressure the horses sound and when the engine is cold when starting there is blue smoke what could it be? thank you.
Not much info here about replacing a pump on a 4WD 2005 K1500 without dropping the pan. ..... I got it out OK and got the right o-ring (green from Melling) and I'll shim the outer rotor just to make sure it's OK..... The engine has oil through it already from running just three days ago and I'm changing the pickup tube alignment "device" to make it almost impossible to let the hold-down bracket swing 180° to the previously unused bolt hole. ......... FWIW--- yes --- the pump CAN be changed without taking the pan off ---- just very frustrating and a little wiggling and gentle persuasion. Be sure to not change the oil until you have had the engine running again --- that way it won't be filling the filter for too long.
Great videos. On a LT truck engine and couldn't you do the same through the vacuum pump port?
Correct!
Great Video, But there are 2 Allen bolts in the area that you say to prime the system. do you do the Upper One? or lower one. Thanks
On the LS engines, the big allen is a coolant plug, the smaller one there is the oil galley plug.
cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.corvetteforum.com-vbulletin/1024x768/ls1_ls2_231_61065f23fb65de823257699f4f4e6eea5a243d97_8eaebde400fc20e213b44aef807f471c11716ee1.jpg
If you're talking Gen V LT, the top is the oil supply, the bottom is the oil return that just drops right back into the oil pan.
Some people use this as a turbo oil feed as seen in this picture:
sdparts.com/images/F144800012.jpg
@@Sdpartscenter Thanks for the INFO. Yes, I was talking about the Gen V LT. I did take out the top one, and put a small strip of cloth in the hole. and there was trace amount of oil on it, 👍🏼. I have just completed a Cam Head swap from Texas Speed, will be pushing some oil thru the supply side, and excited to get this thing fired up. Thanks for your Help!!
ok... the 3rd way of "priming" the engine with the trans fluid was no help.. what was the point of that?? thanks
But I don’t have my engine on a stand, it’s in the truck. How tf do I prime the oil pump when I can’t get to the plug?? I’ve watched every video and all of them are on stands
Garden sprayer. It takes 2qts of oil to prime the engine
Honestly, I stripped out one of the torx bolts on the melling hv pump. Wanted to perfectly center it, but wasn't able to do so. Managed to prime the pump at least. After about half a year, it's still holding up ok without any signs of failing. For any others out there, you may be fine without centering your pump to such parameters.
The same thing happened to me
It's ok, I've been running it without having the pump centered the 'proper' way. It's working just fine for over half a year with great oil pressure. Should be ok for others that attempt this as well.
@@20tea use two .002" feeler gauges
@@shadowopsairman1583 If I were to open it, that would be ideal. I never was able to open it to find true center and installed it. It's been over a year now and it's still fine. I here from others that Melling no longer says it's necessary too. Had a friend of mine just install one on his with great success as well.
Melling didn't want you centering anything that's why the bolts strip lol.
I recently rebuilt my 5.3 and just yesterday i primed it by putting oil in the oil pump via galley plug on the side of engine and rotating the engine with the starter and spark plugs OFF
I eventually got oil pressure after but i got a reading of 22-24 psi on the dash. Is that normal.? Or did i do something wrong?
Usually if you can't prime it the right way we pack the oil pump with Vaseline. Works great.
What happens if you crank the motor dry without taking the spark plugs out?
pro tip, put your foot to the floor on the gas and brake at the same time then try to start your car ;)
Great information but how about showing exactly where this port is on the block so we can actually use the info effectively? Or explain it in more detail. Its a threaded port once you remove the bolt or whatever it is thats filling it in the meantime. Is it a grub screw, a hex head bolt , etc.
Put a quart down the OPSU hole.
Is that behind the intake?
Best way I've found is to take the old pump drive/timing gear, and hone out the I.D., so it now spins freely on the crank nose. Then drill 2 holes 180° from each other on the face of the gear end of the piece. Tap them for an M6, or 1/4-20 thread. Make a strap up with the same bolt pattern, with clearance holes for the M6 bolts. Then, in the middle, halfway between the 2 clearance holes, dill and tap for an M8 (or whatever size) thread. Thread a short bolt into that middle hole in the strap, and tighten it up using blue, 242 Loctite. Oil the inside of the pump drive, and oil the crank nose. Insert the pump drive so it can engage the oil pump, put a 3/8" drive arbor in the drill motor with the right size socket, and spin the Be-Jesus out of the pump. You now have an oil pump Primer tool that works with any wet sump LS Engine......👍👍
Sounds like they got that mic fixed.
We've been through 4 or 5 different setups. This current one is probably the best so far without having to break out a lot of money for a fancy schmancy mic setup.
Informative but short.
The crankshaft is biasing in an orbit around true centerline due to engine harmonics by more than .001. Engine startup vs cold shutdown moves crank centerline by .001. The main bearings themselves wear with time and crank centerline drops by way MORE than .001. I know this because ive seen it in the transmission oil pumps which are built the same way! High mileage wear ive seen the pump bushings worn to one side by .008 or more! So screwing around with your little .0015 shims does almost nothing and is not gaining you much. Gains you nothing after 40 or 50k of engine wear.
Why not go to hardware store buy cheap pump sprayer couple brass fittings and wa la pressurized oil luber for under 50$