Thanks Just started my first service with the final drive oil change. That seemed the easiest to get to. I had noticed some oil on the back wheel. I’m hoping it was just from the breather hose.
I would say that is likely the case. On the older (mine is a 2018) Urals, there was a small breather plug that leaked sometimes. That is why I built the new breather system. That is also why they went with the new OEM breather like you have. It is fun to take care of Urals! Oh… I might recommend that you stay with mineral oil until your next oil change. Regular oils works better for breaking in an engine (helps the piston rings seat). Ok to use synthetic in the diff and gearbox.
Hi allen. Iv done that with thos oil catch tank/can. I didnt remove the edge capsthe 2 orange twist caps. .they let the air out catch tank. As the old oil runs into the middle of the oil drain area of the catch tank.
Hey Allen, here's another one of my "Helpful Hints". When I change oil on either my bikes or my cars, I put a pizza box down first, then put the oil pan on it. It helps keep drips and splashes off the floor, and makes it easier to clean up the area. You don't need to use only a pizza box, any cardboard box opened up, and flattened out will work. I noticed the two types of gear oil you used, one said Gear oil, and the other said transmission and differential oil. Any reason why they couldn't both use the same oil, or is that just your preference?.,,,
Hi Phil… I like the pizza box idea! I made a mess, didn’t I? As far as the oil goes… good question. I think because I had some 80W90 left would be the main reason. I think the oil for the gearbox (75W90) would be fine in the diff. I will probably just use that next time.
Hi Ken - not sure of the artists, but the tracks used are: Acoustic Breeze Endless Motion Tenderness Perception I got them free from bensound.com if you wanted to snag them.
Hi Ken. The only problems I have had on the road were covered in my video about locktiting some screws. Once the screw holding the left injector on backed out and I did an emergency fix using wire and zip ties to get back home. The other problem was the pin that holds the clutch lever to the transmission backed out and I lost my clutch. I stopped and screwed it back in. Aside from those two items which are totally fixed with locktite, I have had zero problems. It has proven to be a totally reliable bike.
Hi Allen. I recently purchased a 2017 Ural Gear Up and noticed the Owners Manual on Page 4-2 (Fluids, Lubricants & Capacities) lists 20w-50 for both the Engine and Gearbox oil. Do you think its a typo for the Gearbox oil, or was something different with the 2017 model? I guess I'll have to give the stealer, I mean dealer, a call.
Hi Kevin… Ural actually changed to specs for gearbox oil a couple of years ago. We are now supposed to use 75W90 synthetic oil in the gearbox. I think that is a good call since the bikes have a dry clutch and the gears are pretty hard on oil. Your dealer should be able to verify that. Thanks a bunch for the question and for watching!
Nice, a little concerned about the gearbox oil seems awful dark as well. I know I'm being picky and most of us all understand what you're talking about but there is no differential on these.
I use mineral oil for the first couple thousand miles. After that, with the rings seated, I use synthetic. Either one will work… it’s just what I do with all my vehicles. As long as you change the fluids on a regular basis, your Ural will be happy with mineral or synthetic.
@@Uraljunkie But for some reason I start to start consuming oil due to wind resistance. if there is no wind, the level remains unchanged. I drive at a speed of 80 km/h. oil Motul 7100 20w-50.
How are you measuring the oil loss? Dipstick? Have you done a compression check? Mine runs at 150psi. I will check my oil more often… usually I don’t check it because I don’t think it burns oil. I searched the internet for Ural Burning Oil and found a bunch of info on sovietsteeds.com. www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51150&start=15
Hi Luis. The parts catalog calls out part number US-M14-NBR which is a washer with integrated rubber seal. However, the spare washers I got from the dealer are plain aluminum washers with OD: 19.8mm ID: 14.4mm thickness: 1.5mm. I am still using my original washers even though I have changed the oil about five times. Hope this helps.
Good to hear you will get it going again. You should be able to just reuse all of the washers. Clarification… the part number I gave you earlier was the description. The actual part number is 368802. You can find all of the parts on your Ural at live.uralcatalog.com/category/sub/2/140/
@@Uraljunkie thank you so much for taking the time to post that video and also to help me with that part number. You are awesome and people like me really appreciate you. 🙌🏼🔥❤️
Thanks for this. I've had a 2005 and now I've got a 2002. Always good to refresh your memory with how it's done right before undertaking.
Thanks for the video!..
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!
Thanks. As I’ve just got a 2011 Ural this is great to see.
Glad to hear it, Marcus!
Well done Sir.
Why thank you!
Thanks
Just started my first service with the final drive oil change. That seemed the easiest to get to. I had noticed some oil on the back wheel. I’m hoping it was just from the breather hose.
I would say that is likely the case. On the older (mine is a 2018) Urals, there was a small breather plug that leaked sometimes. That is why I built the new breather system. That is also why they went with the new OEM breather like you have. It is fun to take care of Urals!
Oh… I might recommend that you stay with mineral oil until your next oil change. Regular oils works better for breaking in an engine (helps the piston rings seat). Ok to use synthetic in the diff and gearbox.
Hi allen. Iv done that with thos oil catch tank/can.
I didnt remove the edge capsthe 2 orange twist caps.
.they let the air out catch tank. As the old oil runs into the middle of the oil drain area of the catch tank.
Hey Allen, here's another one of my "Helpful Hints". When I change oil on either my bikes or my cars, I put a pizza box down first, then put the oil pan on it. It helps keep drips and splashes off the floor, and makes it easier to clean up the area. You don't need to use only a pizza box, any cardboard box opened up, and flattened out will work. I noticed the two types of gear oil you used, one said Gear oil, and the other said transmission and differential oil. Any reason why they couldn't both use the same oil, or is that just your preference?.,,,
Hi Phil… I like the pizza box idea! I made a mess, didn’t I? As far as the oil goes… good question. I think because I had some 80W90 left would be the main reason. I think the oil for the gearbox (75W90) would be fine in the diff. I will probably just use that next time.
very informative video alle. thanks. your work music is so cool....can you pass on the band's name if you have it?
Hi Ken - not sure of the artists, but the tracks used are:
Acoustic Breeze
Endless Motion
Tenderness
Perception
I got them free from bensound.com if you wanted to snag them.
hi allen. had to refresh my memory for fluid changes, so watching it again..can i ask you...ever have any mechanical issues on the hiway?
Hi Ken. The only problems I have had on the road were covered in my video about locktiting some screws. Once the screw holding the left injector on backed out and I did an emergency fix using wire and zip ties to get back home. The other problem was the pin that holds the clutch lever to the transmission backed out and I lost my clutch. I stopped and screwed it back in. Aside from those two items which are totally fixed with locktite, I have had zero problems. It has proven to be a totally reliable bike.
Hi Allen. I recently purchased a 2017 Ural Gear Up and noticed the Owners Manual on Page 4-2 (Fluids, Lubricants & Capacities) lists 20w-50 for both the Engine and Gearbox oil. Do you think its a typo for the Gearbox oil, or was something different with the 2017 model? I guess I'll have to give the stealer, I mean dealer, a call.
Hi Kevin… Ural actually changed to specs for gearbox oil a couple of years ago. We are now supposed to use 75W90 synthetic oil in the gearbox. I think that is a good call since the bikes have a dry clutch and the gears are pretty hard on oil. Your dealer should be able to verify that. Thanks a bunch for the question and for watching!
Nice, a little concerned about the gearbox oil seems awful dark as well. I know I'm being picky and most of us all understand what you're talking about but there is no differential on these.
I have a 2017 motorcycle but shouldn't only mineral oil be used?
I use mineral oil for the first couple thousand miles. After that, with the rings seated, I use synthetic. Either one will work… it’s just what I do with all my vehicles. As long as you change the fluids on a regular basis, your Ural will be happy with mineral or synthetic.
Hi bro, why you do not update videos? Summer has gone😂
Busy busy. Too many things to do right now. Soon… thanks for the encouragement!
@@Uraljunkiehaha, be happy and healthy, enjoy to watch you playing your motorcycle.
That oil looks really black. How many miles on it and what kind of oil???
It’s always very dirty when I change it. Motul 20W-50 synthetic and around 2200 miles. Thanks for watching and for the comment!
Good afternoon. please tell me, does your motorcycle consume oil? if so, how many grams per 100km?
As far as I can tell, no. It doesn’t leak and no smoke is visible in the exhaust. Oil level stays the same between oil changes.
@@Uraljunkie But for some reason I start to start consuming oil due to wind resistance. if there is no wind, the level remains unchanged. I drive at a speed of 80 km/h. oil Motul 7100 20w-50.
How are you measuring the oil loss? Dipstick? Have you done a compression check? Mine runs at 150psi. I will check my oil more often… usually I don’t check it because I don’t think it burns oil. I searched the internet for Ural Burning Oil and found a bunch of info on sovietsteeds.com. www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=51150&start=15
What size crush washers do I need for the drain plugs?
Hi Luis. The parts catalog calls out part number US-M14-NBR which is a washer with integrated rubber seal.
However, the spare washers I got from the dealer are plain aluminum washers with OD: 19.8mm ID: 14.4mm thickness: 1.5mm.
I am still using my original washers even though I have changed the oil about five times.
Hope this helps.
@@Uraljunkie thank you so much! It’s the first time I’m changing the fluids, even though it’s a 2016 model. It’s been in storage this whole time.
Good to hear you will get it going again. You should be able to just reuse all of the washers.
Clarification… the part number I gave you earlier was the description. The actual part number is 368802.
You can find all of the parts on your Ural at live.uralcatalog.com/category/sub/2/140/
@@Uraljunkie thank you so much for taking the time to post that video and also to help me with that part number. You are awesome and people like me really appreciate you. 🙌🏼🔥❤️
Glad I could help, Luis! Thanks for watching and subscribing!
Can you captions in Russian?
Sorry, I tried but it needs a Russian audio file, which I cannot make.