2:50 Place your wired side of fan upwards and Lip side of Fan Duct downwards. (Screws are tough to redo) 3:37 Don't push on Fan (easy to forget incidentally) 4:59 E3D-Online Wait! I know nothing! what's next? Oh! you made a list in a link, thank you! Thank you for the video! Great editing, clear instructions and good music! If you ever make
A lot of videos that mention this is a topic, but don't go into any detail, have instructions flash in 3 ms and are gone, and don't show you anything except a fleeting passby of the completed project. This video was excellent and made up for all of those other bad ones out there!!! Thanks!!!
At 3:25 you specifically call out the orientation that the fan/duct should clip on, but it's backwards from every other picture I've seen of the v6, including the ones on your website. The volcano is shown with the lip toward the heater block, but the v6 is shown the other way. Are the marketing materials incorrect and the video is correct? I have a hard time seeing why it really matters either way unless something is obstructing the fan in your particular setup.
had to replace the heat cartridge and for some reason it had some plastic over the screw , preventing the hex key from turning it , I had to use a butane soldering iron to heat it up enough to make the plastic melt .
I switched to the PT1000 thermistor over the stock one. I was not able to keep a reliable temp with the stock Thermistor. The first Thermistor was bad the second Thermistor I could not reach 300c to heat tighten Hotend without getting an error message. When I just changed to the PT1000 I was at least able to get to 300c and have it stable. So I thought every thing was ok. Then I recently keep getting 0c on the hotend temp. when I first turn on the printer. For a few times I was able to unplug and replug in the thermistor and or the heater cartage. It would work again. After a while I decided to replace the thermistor and heater cartage altogether for a new one. I hope this one works otherwise I am going back to my stock hotend. Maybe my Gen L 1.0 board just can't quite handle the E3D Hotend. But it should work.
has anyone encountered MINTEMP error on Prusa after assembly. I am receiving that problem right now after assembly and don't know what to do from here.
I recently had a heatbreak gall inside of the heatsink. In the end, I broke the heatbreak. Why don't you recommend using anti-seize compound for assembly?
Don't forget the part where you gotta buy a new geared extruder because you can't be bothered to put that information on the v6 product page. I'm on day three of troubleshooting mid print jams after finding the forum post where another customer was told to just buy a titan after wasting his week too.
Just received and assembled mine. Meanwhile the heatingblock is different. E3d should change screws for the fan to smaller ones so they pass through thir holes in the fan easily. We should not need to screw them through. You see in the video what happens then (fan is not flush). And why are we using thermo paste? The heatbreak should have an end at its thread. This way there would be a much better contact and the paste would make more sense. Also less heatpaste is better than more. It should be gently wiped off after applying it so only a small film stays. My personal opinions.
Old video but .. the heatblock I received has two bolts on one side a grub screw on the other and the nozzle is a different orientation to your video. ie: the holes for the heater and thermistor are vertical - next to the nozzle, not horizontal as yours are ! I assume (can't find a video to check) that I insert the heater block & thermistor in from the top before I screw the heatsink on otherwise the wires will probably foul on the print surface ?
3:53 hotend block is almost straight 4:22 hotendblock is turned on for whatever reason 4:37 hotendblock is almost straight again. did you forget to mention any steps? Thank you.
I would have preferred if you talked on the video but.... I could still follow alone from the good clear video. I never know how far to screw in the Heat Break compared to how far to screw in the nozzle. I think I have it now.
Happy New Year!! I'm going crazy with the temperature sensor. What should I declare the marlin ?? (ramps1.4 + Arduino Mega). the previous E3D V6 3mm mounted a 100k sensor ....
@@E3DOnline Thanks for replying. But why include a PT100 sensor without its card? I purchased believing to be 100% operational (as it was in the previous order). Instead I only find out later that I need to purchase another component in order to use my temperature probe. This is not cool. And it is not specified in the description of Amazon!
@@TheMiguelBi We offer Pt-100s without amplifier boards as 'spares' or for printer boards with amplifiers built in, like Ultimaker boards. To be clear to anyone reading, our core products are supplied with thermistors (these do not require amplifier boards), not Pt-100s.
It does say somewhere on E3D's web site that you need to parts. I recently bought the 1000 version thermistor. It does not require any additional parts. It's a drop in replacement other than changing the thermistor type in marlin. I keep having issues with the stock thermistor keeping temperature. I keep getting errors.
My heater wiring is blue. Does this mean my hotend will run cooler? Lol before anyone attacks me I'm kidding, but seriously though it does make me slightly nervous thinking they changed the wiring somewhere after I ordered mine back in 2019 something. I've had issues in the past with the heater wiring breaking from mechanical stress over time and the yellow wire in the vid makes me think they might have tried to mitigate such problems with better wire. Thanks for the video. I needed to stop in and make sure I wasn't supposed to get any sink paste on the hotend side of the heat break. It's been a while and I had forgotten but seemed to remember that doing that could cause no end of problems with keeping things tight. Y'all wish me luck, pls. I've been having a lot of failures from extruder temp resets so I just decided to go ahead and replace the entire hotend, wire and all. Looking forward to not sweating out long prints expecting fails.
@@E3DOnline Thank you for replying! I mean no disrespect to the quality of your products. Really I was just curious to see if I was missing out on something new. I do truly love my E3D v6. In retrospect, my wiring failures were really _my_ failures, as my wiring harness setup was allowing all the wires to the extruder to flex far too much. My first serious print on the new v6 was a repair part for the extruder carriage that hopefully has completely resolved the problem I had with wire breakage. Thanks for making the best of of the best, and a prosperous new year to the team!
You want the transition from cold, rigid filament to molten plastic to be as sharp (short) as possible and to occur within the heatbreak, as low as possible into the heater block. So, you need the top part of the heatbreak to be actively cooled by the heatsink, the thermal compound helps this. It's impossible to prevent the heatblock from heating up the lower part of the heatbreak, this would be the same with or without thermal paste. So by connecting the top part as well as possible to the cooling power of the heatsink, you move the transition point closer to the heatblock and nozzle, for sharper printing.
you want the heat sink region to be cold and the heat block to be hot. if the heatsink region gets too hot, it's called heat creep and can introduce a variety of printing problems
be very careful with that thermistor. it's more fragile than anything you've ever seen. Use minimal pressure to tighten it (just until it touches it and the thermistor isn't moving) and use kapton tape to tape the cable it somewhere safe so it doesn't bend over and over again. that cable is super fragile
And a complete pain to remove if it *does* break. Pro Tip: don't go crazy tightening the thermistor grub screws. Had to force mine out with an arbor press after the leads broke off.
at least put that music name why good youtubers with good music doesnt put the names hate that change it make good video good music put that music names too
2:50 Place your wired side of fan upwards and Lip side of Fan Duct downwards. (Screws are tough to redo)
3:37 Don't push on Fan (easy to forget incidentally)
4:59 E3D-Online Wait! I know nothing! what's next? Oh! you made a list in a link, thank you!
Thank you for the video! Great editing, clear instructions and good music! If you ever make
A lot of videos that mention this is a topic, but don't go into any detail, have instructions flash in 3 ms and are gone, and don't show you anything except a fleeting passby of the completed project. This video was excellent and made up for all of those other bad ones out there!!! Thanks!!!
At 3:25 you specifically call out the orientation that the fan/duct should clip on, but it's backwards from every other picture I've seen of the v6, including the ones on your website. The volcano is shown with the lip toward the heater block, but the v6 is shown the other way. Are the marketing materials incorrect and the video is correct? I have a hard time seeing why it really matters either way unless something is obstructing the fan in your particular setup.
had to replace the heat cartridge and for some reason it had some plastic over the screw , preventing the hex key from turning it , I had to use a butane soldering iron to heat it up enough to make the plastic melt .
I switched to the PT1000 thermistor over the stock one. I was not able to keep a reliable temp with the stock Thermistor. The first Thermistor was bad the second Thermistor I could not reach 300c to heat tighten Hotend without getting an error message. When I just changed to the PT1000 I was at least able to get to 300c and have it stable. So I thought every thing was ok. Then I recently keep getting 0c on the hotend temp. when I first turn on the printer. For a few times I was able to unplug and replug in the thermistor and or the heater cartage. It would work again. After a while I decided to replace the thermistor and heater cartage altogether for a new one. I hope this one works otherwise I am going back to my stock hotend. Maybe my Gen L 1.0 board just can't quite handle the E3D Hotend. But it should work.
Wish I had this video a few years ago... was very helpful.
A trick: you can watch series on Flixzone. I've been using it for watching all kinds of movies lately.
@Alonso Jaden Yea, I have been using flixzone} for years myself :D
Is it Bad If these is lol bit of thermale paste on the upper part of the Heat break. Or must it only bei applied in the screw part.
The head with the nozzle suppose to spin? mine isn't.. every time I'm touching the cables the head is spinning..
Is it a problem if the lip from the fan is on the opposite side?
How about another video for direct extruder assembly.
has anyone encountered MINTEMP error on Prusa after assembly. I am receiving that problem right now after assembly and don't know what to do from here.
I recently had a heatbreak gall inside of the heatsink. In the end, I broke the heatbreak. Why don't you recommend using anti-seize compound for assembly?
the thermal paste should have take care of that
why no BiMetal Heatbreak? is this steel enough?
Don't forget the part where you gotta buy a new geared extruder because you can't be bothered to put that information on the v6 product page. I'm on day three of troubleshooting mid print jams after finding the forum post where another customer was told to just buy a titan after wasting his week too.
How about you make a guide to install this on an Ender 3?
Just received and assembled mine. Meanwhile the heatingblock is different. E3d should change screws for the fan to smaller ones so they pass through thir holes in the fan easily. We should not need to screw them through. You see in the video what happens then (fan is not flush). And why are we using thermo paste? The heatbreak should have an end at its thread. This way there would be a much better contact and the paste would make more sense. Also less heatpaste is better than more. It should be gently wiped off after applying it so only a small film stays. My personal opinions.
Old video but ..
the heatblock I received has two bolts on one side a grub screw on the other and the nozzle is a different orientation to your video.
ie: the holes for the heater and thermistor are vertical - next to the nozzle, not horizontal as yours are !
I assume (can't find a video to check) that I insert the heater block & thermistor in from the top before I screw the heatsink on otherwise the wires will probably foul on the print surface ?
a bit late perhaps, but it sounds like you got a volcano hotend instead of a regular V6 one :-)
3:53 hotend block is almost straight
4:22 hotendblock is turned on for whatever reason
4:37 hotendblock is almost straight again.
did you forget to mention any steps?
Thank you.
I would have preferred if you talked on the video but.... I could still follow alone from the good clear video. I never know how far to screw in the Heat Break compared to how far to screw in the nozzle. I think I have it now.
@E3D-Online should I put thermal paste on the heater cartridge and thermistor?
no, just where your shown to apply it in this video
@@SatansNutsack but why? I did it just recently and got phenomenal printing speeds without any issue, never being able to achieve before.
@@konrad7592 You want to transfer the heat which comes upwards for cooling but you want as less heat coming up as possible.
Did you use the 3d printed torque wrench with 3Nm at timestamp 4:27++ ? Would be great if you could add the link to it and your printing settings.
yes, stl please :)
@UCqIFpPJuhfABu8WhQkUniaQ I think it is, but not sure.
Happy New Year!!
I'm going crazy with the temperature sensor. What should I declare the marlin ?? (ramps1.4 + Arduino Mega). the previous E3D V6 3mm mounted a 100k sensor ....
it's the same. No. 5 in Marlin
@@E3DOnline Thanks for replying.
But why include a PT100 sensor without its card? I purchased believing to be 100% operational (as it was in the previous order). Instead I only find out later that I need to purchase another component in order to use my temperature probe. This is not cool. And it is not specified in the description of Amazon!
@@TheMiguelBi We offer Pt-100s without amplifier boards as 'spares' or for printer boards with amplifiers built in, like Ultimaker boards.
To be clear to anyone reading, our core products are supplied with thermistors (these do not require amplifier boards), not Pt-100s.
E3D-Online
ok. I said nonsense myself. 🤦🏻♂️
I believed that in the full metal V6 kit there was a pt100 instead of the normal thermistor. Sorry!
It does say somewhere on E3D's web site that you need to parts. I recently bought the 1000 version thermistor. It does not require any additional parts. It's a drop in replacement other than changing the thermistor type in marlin. I keep having issues with the stock thermistor keeping temperature. I keep getting errors.
Isn't one full turn of backing off nozzle too much, I only back off 1/4 turn ?
I personnaly do half a turn, I think one full turn is too much though, don't like the nozzle sticking out so much
honestly it's fine really. but yeah I do 1/2 of a turn.
anywhere between a quarter to a full turn is fine. What's most important is that the nozzle isn't tightening up against the heaterblock
My heater wiring is blue. Does this mean my hotend will run cooler? Lol before anyone attacks me I'm kidding, but seriously though it does make me slightly nervous thinking they changed the wiring somewhere after I ordered mine back in 2019 something. I've had issues in the past with the heater wiring breaking from mechanical stress over time and the yellow wire in the vid makes me think they might have tried to mitigate such problems with better wire.
Thanks for the video. I needed to stop in and make sure I wasn't supposed to get any sink paste on the hotend side of the heat break. It's been a while and I had forgotten but seemed to remember that doing that could cause no end of problems with keeping things tight. Y'all wish me luck, pls. I've been having a lot of failures from extruder temp resets so I just decided to go ahead and replace the entire hotend, wire and all. Looking forward to not sweating out long prints expecting fails.
no issue. we just changed the colours around last year to make it easier for identifying voltage without having to examine the ceramic casing.
@@E3DOnline Thank you for replying! I mean no disrespect to the quality of your products. Really I was just curious to see if I was missing out on something new. I do truly love my E3D v6. In retrospect, my wiring failures were really _my_ failures, as my wiring harness setup was allowing all the wires to the extruder to flex far too much. My first serious print on the new v6 was a repair part for the extruder carriage that hopefully has completely resolved the problem I had with wire breakage.
Thanks for making the best of of the best, and a prosperous new year to the team!
my heater block doesnt have e3d logo on it. does that mean its fake
i got the real one off amazon
Not necessarily. The one featured in the video is the Plated Copper, our standard aluminium has no logo
how do you install this with a titan extruder in direct drive mode?
Follow this handy guide :)
e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/1.75mm+Direct+Titan+Assembly/19?lang=en
While hot tightening, should the cooling fan is on?
yes
Why use heat paste when you don't want the heat to exit the heat block? (Truly curious.)
You want the transition from cold, rigid filament to molten plastic to be as sharp (short) as possible and to occur within the heatbreak, as low as possible into the heater block.
So, you need the top part of the heatbreak to be actively cooled by the heatsink, the thermal compound helps this.
It's impossible to prevent the heatblock from heating up the lower part of the heatbreak, this would be the same with or without thermal paste. So by connecting the top part as well as possible to the cooling power of the heatsink, you move the transition point closer to the heatblock and nozzle, for sharper printing.
you want the heat sink region to be cold and the heat block to be hot. if the heatsink region gets too hot, it's called heat creep and can introduce a variety of printing problems
What about apllying thermal paste to nozzle thread also?
be very careful with that thermistor. it's more fragile than anything you've ever seen. Use minimal pressure to tighten it (just until it touches it and the thermistor isn't moving) and use kapton tape to tape the cable it somewhere safe so it doesn't bend over and over again. that cable is super fragile
And a complete pain to remove if it *does* break.
Pro Tip: don't go crazy tightening the thermistor grub screws. Had to force mine out with an arbor press after the leads broke off.
@@Cheap_Skate ouch. just tighten it enough until it only touches it and puts the lightest pressure.
We have updated the thermistor to a more robust design recently! :)
Can you use regulare CPU thermal paste?
I did it since one and half year without any problem (I mean between heat-brake and disipator)
Yes. And you can use E3D thermal paste on a CPU. YMMV but OK for me on a mildly overclocked i5
How do I print with pla I've been having no success on the hotend e3d v6 all metal
Sorry to hear this Mikey,
Please contact our support team at support@e3d-online.com and we can troubleshoot your issues.
at least put that music name why good youtubers with good music doesnt put the names hate that change it make good video good music put that music names too
A lot of dumb comments in the comment section. Good luck es3 lol
Oh, that was truly awful. No mention of the Thermistor Cartridge testing with a multi meter and that fan had gaps between it and the blue cowl.