3D printing guides - Assembling the E3D v6 hotend
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 พ.ค. 2014
- Got a new E3D v6 hotend? I'll show you how to assemble it and what to watch out for.
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The heatbreak comes with some thermal paste that is supposed to be added to the threads that enter the heatsink. Didn't see that included. Thanks for the demo, helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to do this. It really helped when we had a problem with the heater cartridge and needed to replace it. The power of opensource hardware and opensource mentality of sharing for the benefit of all.
1:10 I really appreciated the explanation of the importance of tightening the nozzle to the break vs the block.
I'm new to this and had to turn captions on so I could get my terminology straight (heater break vs heater block) haha... Thank you so much! You know your shit man...
Could you do an updated video for the newer version? Mine came in today, and it's very different from this video.
Thank you for taking the time to do this - very helpful.
Coming back 5 years later to do this again because I don’t like changing things and I’m cheap. Thanks man 😂
Super video, nice job Thomas 👍🏼
Nicely done. I'm glad you tell everyone what to be careful with.
Just reassembled the v6 on a Prusa MK3S... your guide is still relevant except the thermistor. Thanks again!
I just ordered the new version with a thermistor cartridge. Should be assembling it tomorrow
thanks for the tips and breakdown great video as always :-)
Like Julian said, It would be great if you could make an updated tutorial, it would be a great help for most who are not that experienced, thanks for all your hard work !
Thanks for the walk through Tom. My kit just arrived today and I couldn't be more excited about this upgrade!
Do you have any tips for seasoning it for use with PLA?
Hi Tom, love your videos, thanks!
I love this E3D nozzle, it looks rugged and seems it packs a punch
Is there a work around for using this hot end with the Printrbot Simple Metal? If so, what is it?
thank you! nicely explained
sweet my intuition about splicing wires together was right. Hooks!
Hi thomas,
Thanks for the video.
I have a question, i am reassembling my hot end after some issues, as far as i can see on your video the heatbreak thread doesn't go all the way in the heaterblock, with 1 or olmost 2 threads still out of the heaterblock is this correct?
I am asking because in the newer e3d v6's the heatbreak seem to go in all the way in ( i have an old one like you)
How do you recommend we install the PTFE in a slide-in groove-mount filament drive?
great video. I watched this several times and the review before buying my e3d v6's. I havea CTC Bizer (aka flash forge creator/ makerbot 2x clone) I have a dual extruder setup, but can't figure out how to have both V6s on my dual setup. I have only been able to attach it by removing one of my extruder setups.
any advise? help!
thanks
Hi Tom,
Will the V6 fit the Printrbot Simple Metal? It looks a little too short.
Regards
Alan
Tom Tanks for all your tutorial. I learn all about 3D printing from you. just buy E3d V6 clone from China and is it coming with a 40W 12 volt element? Is it strong enough for nylon printing? Should i put isolation with tape around block to have it hotter?
Thank you!
omg, hi 'young Tom'
when heating up the block to tighten the nozzle, what do you hold on to since you're not supposed to hold onto the heatsink?
Hey Tom greetings....tore a wire loose from thermistor in my mk3...which one is a proper replacement on Amazon and does particular wire splice matter? thanks
Great guide. Imho a bit fast. Maybe add landing-pages between the main steps, too. Would make it easier for jumping between the single steps. But over all - great guide!
WOW! Proof that you were younger! :)
should i put there some bowden or it's not necessary?
thanks
Do you have to keep the fan if you already have a fan shroud?
I just installed another new e3d extruder but this time I am getting a 357 temperature reading. I'm using simplify 3d with a printrbot metal plus.
Any idea what is happening?
do you get jams with pla in these i been reading alot of people having this issue with pla?
Does this have a PTFE tube inside it, even for the 1.71mm plastic?
I am seeing a lot of fakes on Ebay, and wounder if the PTFE is the reason why.
Feel like making a guide on how-to replace just the heat break on e3d v6 (replace the ptfe tube with a solid metal one). I think I can do it from this video, but worried I will break the heater, etc
Does the heat break hole has chamfer on the side that touches brass nozzle ? I think it should be flat, but mine has chamfer inside hole which is causing problem when extruder retracts and unable to push back.
how well should I spread those legs? your answer is crucial to my 3d build.
+1 for the traxxas nut driver :D
awesome!
Around 4:40 you show links to some of your other videos including "Firmware basics" however this actually links to your E3D v5 assembly video.
What is the benefit of buying and installing this over something like the stock printrbot metal head?
Hello. Can you also do an assembly video guide for E3D Lite6?
mir gefällt dass ich EXAKT das selbe werkzeug verwende. zangen von knippex, gabelschlüssel von proxxon und die wera schraubendrehen :) könnte bei mir daheim sein.
When you said heat it up to 280 deg C, why are you screwing in the nozzle with your hands? Or was that just for demonstration purposes?
hi, that heatbreak has a pfte tube inside?
Should we use thread lock on this?
anyone having issues with the fan not working after about 2 minutes of PID tuning? i thought the PSU was putting out to much voltage but its regulated to 12.20vdc unloaded and when heating its at 12.10vdc... i did the PID tuning as you said to do tom, M303 S280 C8... but when the nozzle gets to about 200-240C the fan shuts down. i tried 6 different times thinking it was wiring, but its all checked out to be good. So for Shits and giggles i let the fan hang down on the bed while running the nozzle up in temp... the fan remained on throughout the process, but when i reconnected it to the nozzle and ran the temp up it quits and throws off the PID tuning...did i get a defective fan? or am i missing something...
I received the V6 hotend and I would like to know what I need to
to with my firmware before mounting the hotend to the printer.
My printer is RepRapPro Mendel and their wiki site It says :“For RepRap Firmware use the Beta value 4267K”.what does it mean?what do I need to add to my config.g file?
After I print, the filament leaks all over the print. It's caused by a loose nozzle?
So my hotend heater slides around even with the screw in place very tight. Is that normal?
Can you explain how to do pid tuning?
does it compatible with solidoodle 4?
Good review. I would suggest not heating to 380C unless you're using a thermocouple. Thermistor is limited to 300C and tested up to 290C.
This is a older video. What you did not cover is the heat tightening portion. With the E3D v6 do you have to do the heat tightening?
what mistake did i make if get error max temp 712c when i start the printer and when i unplug the wire i get min temp
Did you also do a review of the lite6 anywhere and if not, can you recommend one?
Thanks. Really like your channel, keep up the good work!
Hello, I am needing a bit more help in regards to wiring the Heating cartridge to my Printrboard.
Does the orientation of the wire matter when connected to the hotend connector on the printrboard? For example is one wire strictly positive and the other negative. Or does it not matter as long as one wire is one and the other wire is the other?
Yes - neither wires are polarity-sensitive. Includes heater and thermistor.
Bought a E3d V6 wired it up, but i am having problems with updating the firmware of my solidoodle 3. i have the ATMega 644P. It will not upload but compiles fine.
Hi Thomas;
I see that you do not use any thermal compound.
Is that just because of the mess, or is it not needed?
Thanks
MickM
***** Thanks, that makes sense.
Hit my E3D nozzle tip with the clip that is holding the glass bed ... Saw some smoke coming out of the E3D assembly. Unplugged the power to stop and now the LCD is giving error reading "min temp error" at hot end. Could hitting the tip to something possibly damage the thermistor?
[Fixed] pulled out the thermistor and one of the leg is loose and burnt. ran a reading to these legs and display fluctuating from 80-110 k ohm so looks like the thermistor itself is fine but the wiring like you said is at fault.
Still not sure how I managed to short this leg just by hitting the nozzle tip to the clip though...
This may be a stupid question, but once assembled, how do you attach it to your printer?
My printer currently has an MK8. Which the hot end attaches by screwing the tube to the mount plate along with a jam nut.
if the fan shroud was the mount for the E3D, that would have been great.. obviously it's not.
So, how do I mount it?
They are not directly compatible. Go to Thingiverse and look up a mount, print it (preferably in abs or petg to avoid softening when hot) and install.
Good luck!
Hi Thomas,thank you for excellent review, I bought the Metal J-head V6 hotend based on your review, but I have never get a single print! it always jams at nuzzle point when using PLA, (never tried ABS) I tried to clean the hotend part by part every time but the result is the same every single time.
Iam new in 3d printing and pissed off of my printed really disappointed. :(
any suggestion helping me with this problem.
+Thomas Sanladerer I think it maybe because of the PET tube..
Hallo, eine Sache die du vergessen hast und bei mir tatsächlich Jams am Heatbreak ausgelöst hat, ist das man den oberen Teil des Heatbreak mit der mitgelieferten Wärmeleitpaste einschmieren muss.
Best ending of any of your videos
Hallo!
Kurze Frage: wenn ich das E3D V6 nicht als Bowden, sondern als Direct benutzen möchte, wie sichere ich den Inliner gegen herausrutschen?
Oder sollte er oben etwas herausschauen?
Vielen Dank für die Anwort.
Grüße
***** Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort.
Grüße
nueschtsNutzername sceiBe
Hi, Bro.
I am thinking to get this hotend. I have a question about I saw two kinds of different hotend on Ebay. E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal (Bowden, 24V) and E3D V6 All-Metal HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal (Direct, 24V)
I am wondering what is the difference between Bowden and Direct?
Thank you so much.
Thank you so much, Thomas.
I like your videos so much.
Keep it up.
+Yan Zhuang why are there two products then ?
hello, does v6 HotEnd Full Kit - 1.75mm Universal (Direct) (12v) work and can be built on any 3d printer?
*****
it work, thanks.
I thought your ment to put thermal paste in the heat brake
Since the whole point of a hot end is to get the heat into the brass nozzle, why back it off from the face of the hot block? That nice flat surface under the hex head would surely transfer heat better than the threads (notoriously bad at transferring heat). I realize you're following E3's instructions, but I don't understand why they're having you do that...getting the stainless tube to firmly contact the brass should fine either way...
I wish I had watch this before trying to put together my hotend, I totally ruined it and had reorder parts.
is it compatible with da vinci 1.0?
Yes but you are going to have to invest a lot of time to modify your Da Vinci (such as reflashing your printer)
'sider subscribing'. :)
thanks!
Have you heard of anyone experiencing regular jams that appear to be in the heat-break?
+Travis Bills I do. It's the filament melting around the crack between the PET tube and hotend.
After rebuilding my e3DV6 numerous times and adjusting my retraction settings I think it was actually a combination of my retraction settings, how far my heat break was screwed in, and my hobbed bolt squishing my filament. That would explain why my jams happened at start-up. The filament at the hobbed bolt was under pressure since my last print and had deformed so it would not fit into the heat break.
lol.. damn.. looking back at this video for a reference for something. Boy you sure have come a long way with. Err umm.. Everything.... Including your physical appearance. Keep at it Tomashhh
I didn't see you showing this in the video, can you add a note about it somewhere? wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Troubleshooting#PTFE_tubing_not_properly_inserted_.28where_applicable.29
I thought you were supposed to heatup everything up to 220+ degrees or even 280 as mentioned in e3d website
E3D's instructions may have been updated over the seven years that this video has been online 😉
3:12 "Spread those legs"
Nannerpuss he continues, "...until it clears the thread hole"
and sorry old 2yr post.
i knew its gonna be first comment when i heard it in video....
*disassembles old nozzle assembly* *realise you need a custom bracket to use the v6 on your printer* *destroy old nozzle during re assembly*
5:21 "And cons..."
4:48 - Is it just me or is the nozzle design one of the worse there is? I find it keeps getting waste build up on the underside of the nozzle way way way more than any other nozzle design I've used before. The whole nozzle design seem way to flat and close to the heater block to allow proper falling away of filament when you manually extrude.
You did not explain how to assemble the heater block at all! It's not "common sense" either because I'm seeing pictures of it that look different. Why did you just skip that part? >:(
He went over how to attach the heat break, nozzle, heater cartridge, and thermistor to the heater block. I'm not seeing what you're claiming he missed.
breath ^^
This thermostor installation design is the worst in the world. Worst. Easily shorted by the washer. If you don't break the legs already.
take a breath :) No need to talk that fast
***** skaltura Perhaps that's a "good fault"? It is quick but it's also beautifully concise / precise. We can always play it more than once to get all that info to soak in, which is what I intend to do. It's far more frustrating when guides are too slow and extracting the essential information (and staying awake :-) becomes difficult.
Thanks for the walk through Tom. My kit just arrived today and I couldn't be more excited about this upgrade!
Do you have any tips for seasoning it for use with PLA?